Author: Smita (Page 1 of 17)

Day 29 of walking the full Camino de Santiago was one of the hardest on the trail after Day 1 when we walked over the Pyrenees from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. The next day, Day 30, did not go exactly as planned. However, there’s always a silver lining. It allowed us to do something we otherwise would not have done. Read more below.

Day 29 – Villafranca del Bierza to O’Cebreiro

We woke with the alarm, ready for breakfast at 7:00 am and were on the road half an hour later.

Leaving Villafranca del Bierza in the morning light, the scenery was stunning. As much as we were in awe of the scenery in front of us, over the past month, we turned and looked behind us as we walked. Sometimes the best views were behind us.

A pretty path and bridge over the Burbia River led us out of Villafranca, but the path became tedious soon after. We walked by the motorway for a long time under miserable grey skies, catching small glimpses of the river.

Pereje

A wooded path away from the motorway took us through the hamlet of Pereje, which has been there since the 12th century. We soaked up the small village atmosphere of yards with hydrangea bushes, and carts parked undercover. Not one of the 33 people who lived there was to be seen.

Trabadelo

A tree-lined path took us back to the main road to the slightly larger village of Trabadelo. Trabadelo dates back to the 9th century and depends on the logging industry and Camino pilgrims. It was yet another sleepy old town with just a few residents in sight.

More small villages while walking the full Camino de Santiago

The river turned into streams and creeks as we continued never far from the motorway. More small settlements (La Portela de Valcarce, Ambasmetas, Vega de Valcarce) appeared. All were ghost towns.

On a roadside verge, we saw the first family group we had come across walking the Camino de Santiago. Mum, Dad, their two young children carrying backpacks, and grandmother leading the way were from Korea. The children were having a wonderful time in the outdoors.

Las Herrerias

Las Herrerias is the last town before the long ascent to O’Cebreiro.

Compared to the other villages, it felt like its inhabitants were all outside to see us on our way.

The inhabitants of Las Herrerias were outdoors going about their business. People were tending their vegetable gardens, catching up with neighbours or walking. Seeing the townspeople after the desolate streets of the previous villages was uplifting.

A lone tall young pilgrim in a red hat and backpack walking ahead of us stood out. We pondered where he was from as we followed him out of town.

Another young pilgrim was seated resting by the creek.

The Camino trail continued. At first, it was along the roadside, after which we ducked in and out of the forests.

The long climb to O Cebreiro

La Faba

The meadows, creeks, streams, and brooks that had accompanied us out of Las Herrerias disappeared, and slowly, farmland surrounded by mountains appeared.

The challenging climb to O’Cebreiro started, and we continued upwards for several kilometres to reach the town of La Faba. The trail passes directly through the town’s narrow streets.

The small town was a welcome sight and perfect for a lunch stop. There was a single cafe open. Our Korean friends from Astorga were seated at a table having a cold drink so we chatted while the cafe owner assembled a colourful fresh salad and a delicious cup of coffee for our lunch.

The climb to O’Cebreiro continued

It took us another 90 minutes to complete the 5km final leg to the hilltop town of O’Cebreiro. The views as we climbed were beautiful and again, it was worth turning to look back over the valley and hillside as we walked.

O’Cebreiro has a population of 30 catering to the many pilgrims who pass through and those few, like us, who stay overnight there.

We arrived to find the village buzzing with daytrippers. Most of them are taking in the spectacular mountain views from the stone walls at either end of the town.

Our accommodation was in the village centre across from the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Real O’Cebreiro which is thought to be the oldest church on the Camino.

O’Cebreiro

First, we needed to check in, stretch, and refresh ourselves before exploring the area. Our bags had not yet arrived when we stopped by the busy souvenir store underneath our accommodation to collect our room keys. This was the first time on the entire Camino de Santiago that our bags had not arrived before us. They assured us our bags might show up in an hour or so and promised to make inquiries.

Unexpected reward

So, we were back outside sooner than we expected. We stayed close by enjoying a beer in the sun at the pub/restaurant next to our accommodation to reward ourselves.

Returning to the store, they confirmed that our bags had arrived before us. They had just been placed in the wrong room. We did our yoga and showered before venturing outside to enjoy the pleasant day and explore O’Cebreiro.

Exploring O’Cebreiro

Day visitors were thinning when we stepped outside after refreshing. The walk to the other end of O’Cebreiro isn’t far. Most noticeable are the few low-set thatched roof dwellings. They are homes particular to O’Cebreiro designed to withstand the heavy snow and high winds that lash the town in the winter. Having seen the street, we returned to look inside the church.

Iglesia de Santa Maria de Real is noted to be the oldest surviving church on the Camino de Santiago. Although parts of the church have had to be reconstructed, some date back to the 9th and 12th centuries.

Also inside, slightly to the side of the church is the tomb of the parish priest Elias Valina Sampedro who is revered for reinventing the Camino de Santiago. A small exhibition documents how he mapped the modern Camino de Santago by tracing back to the medieval route.

We saved the best for last as we retraced our steps to the stone wall along the path we had arrived on. We sat down to savour the spectacular views of the rolling hills and mountains we had just trekked over. It was an amazing way to end the day.

Our accommodation

We stayed in one of Casa Navarro’s three rooms. As mentioned earlier, the accommodation is attached to a small gift store. The rooms were simple and functional but stuffy and the beds were uncomfortable. On top of the discomfort, noisy night arrivals in the other two rooms had woken us.

Dinner and breakfast were provided by Meson O’Cebreiro, directly across the street from Casa Navarro. They had a lovely dining area behind the bar, where we enjoyed our pre-dinner drinks and journaled while glancing out of the expansive windows at the serene mountain views. Now in Gallicia, our evening meal was warm, hearty comfort food consisting of vegetable stew, ricotta puddings, and local Flam cake.

Walking statistics

• 29km
• 7.25 hours including a rest break

Day 28 – O’Cebreiro to Samos

After an uncomfortable night’s sleep, we rose early. It was expected to rain later in the morning and we were eager to leave. So, you can imagine our surprise when we went downstairs to find everything covered in mist and steady rain falling. We ducked across to Meson O’Cebreiro for breakfast and assessed how our day would go.

Plan B – Getting to Samos

We agreed to wait to see if the rain would stop before leaving. The walks downhill were more tricky than uphill. The track would be very slippery even with our hiking shoes. Having walked so far on the full Camino de Santiago we didn’t want to jeopardise completing the walk. If the rain didn’t stop we would take a taxi or catch a bus to Triacastela to see if we could continue the walk to Samos.

Louise, who had been staying in nearby rooms, arrived just as surprised by the rain as we were. We shared our plan with her and were taken aback by her response. “So you’re going to cheat?” she quipped. After all, injuring ourselves on dangerously wet tracks was not part of the plan, and we didn’t see ourselves as cheating.

The waiting game

We wished Louise well. Despite the rain, she started walking after breakfast to Triacastela. We climbed the stairs to our room to wait and see if the mist lifted and the rain eased.

With our bags packed and bags downstairs ready for pick-up there was nothing to do except watch some more Netflix. We checked the bus timetable in case the rain did not cease. There was a bus leaving at 10 am.

Outside, the mist had closed in and rain was falling steadily. We decided to catch the bus to Triacastela and reassess the situation there.

Catching the bus to Samos

At the bus stop, a few other pilgrims decided to take the bus downhill. We spoke with a young German girl whose husband had been determined to walk. He had set out at 7:00 a.m. in the pouring rain. However, she was injured and didn’t want to risk walking in such conditions. She had just received a message from him, and he was completely drenched.

The weather worsened while we waited for the bus, confirming we had made the right decision. The bus was relatively full with both locals and pilgrims. Because of the mist, there wasn’t much to see along the road or in the valley below.

At Triacastela, thinking the rain had stopped, we disembarked. We were mistaken, it was still raining, and we promptly rejoined the queue to get back on quickly. The bus driver looked at us oddly as he issued our tickets for the remainder of the ride to Samos.

Samos

The rain had turned to drizzle by the time we stepped off the bus and walked the short distance to our hotel. Our room was ready but our luggage had not arrived so we dropped our backpacks and took the opportunity to visit the monastery.

Monastario de San Julian de Samos

Our guide notes said Monasterio de Samos is the highlight of this little township.

The monastery was founded in the 6th century. After a series of fires between the 16th and 18th centuries, then another in 1951, the current structure was constructed. The Benedictine order has overseen the monastery since the 10th century, making it one of Spain’s oldest active monasteries today.

A guided tour of the monastery

The monastery offers up to five guided tours daily, each lasting up to 40 minutes and costing 4 euros per person. We arrived in time to join the early afternoon tour along with several other visitors. While we waited for the tour to begin, we browsed through the monastery’s small shop.

The tour was in Spanish, but our young guide also spoke English well and kindly provided us with an overview in English as we proceeded.

The Monastery and Church are huge. We were first guided through the church. The old part is Roman, dating back to the 8th century, with the monastery growing and the new church expanding around it. We then visited the inner cloister and the grand cloister before going upstairs to the upper-floor monk’s quarters to view its beautifully frescoed walls. Each was stunning.

These days, the monastery functions more as a retreat, a contemplative sanctuary hosting Benedictine monks from Spain and visitors worldwide who can stay for 3-15 days.

At the time of our visit, eight monks aged between 50 and 96 years old lived in the monastery full-time alongside our young novice who was under 30 years old and was manning the gift shop when we entered. There were originally 90 monks and 200 novices living there. An indication of the changing tide in faith?

An afternoon in Samos

When we emerged from the monastery after the tour, the rain had finally stopped and it was lunchtime. We wandered along the main street to the bar/restaurant we had passed earlier. Lots of locals were out lunching.

It was surprising to see our guide from the monastery serving behind the bar. She helps her twin brother who owns the bar. When they first moved to Samos three years earlier they had a bar at the quieter end of town. This new spot was a huge improvement in attracting clientele.

Back at the hotel, our bags had arrived allowing us to do an extended yoga session to compensate for not walking. Showered and refreshed, we returned outdoors. The sun was shining brightly.

This time, we took the pretty back way around the town along Paseo de Mamacola. Greenery and vegetable plots sat alongside the clear waterway. We stopped to look at the old chapel with its 1000-year-old cypress tree leaning tightly alongside it.

With plenty of time before our evening meal, we returned to our lunch spot for a glass of delicious local white wine. We watched the comings and goings in the main street while we journaled.

The evening concluded with a bottle of wine and paella, accompanied by battered calamari and grilled octopus. We finished with apple cheesecake and chestnut mousse at our hotel’s restaurant overlooking the waterway.

Our accommodation

Our overnight stay was in Hotel A Veiga. We had a spacious and very comfortable room.

Our breakfast and evening meals were served in the expansive restaurant, which overlooks the gardens and river behind the hotel building. It was a quiet and serene space to end and start our day.

Walking statistics

• 30km (if we had walked downhill from O’Cebreiro)
• The estimated walk time in our walking notes was between six and seven hours

Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?

The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. It’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.

Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago? Read our blog post:

Everything you need to know about walking the full Camino de Santiago.

Or, if you would like to follow our journey from Day 1, click on the link below:

Walking the Full Camino – Days 1 and 2 – St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles and Roncesvalles to Akaretta

We were well and truly out of the Meseta. The landscape transformed dramatically on Days 27 and 28 of walking the full Camino de Santiago, unveiling breathtaking views that left a lasting impression on our hearts and minds. Day 27 was both scenic and difficult with the trail ending in the beautiful town of Molinaseca. A long walk on Day 28, took us through the countryside surrounded by vineyards to Villafranca del Bierzo for an overnight stay.

Day 27 – Rabanal Camino del to Molinaseca

A delicious breakfast fortified us before we left Rabanal del Camino. The air was crisp and breezy so we donned our rain jackets for protection. It wasn’t long before we discarded them.

It was a steady climb along a wildflower-lined track to Foncebadon, a pleasant village. A Scottish lady walked briskly past us while we enjoyed the scenery. When we caught up with her, she had significantly slowed down.

Cruz de Ferro monument

We left her behind on the climb to Monte Irago, the Camino’s highest point. Cruz de Ferro, an ancient monument featuring a single oak tree stump with a cross mounted on top, is the highlight for pilgrims. Pilgrims believe they are at the closest point to heaven on the Camino here. It is customary to leave a stone on the mount atoning for sins and asking for forgiveness.

Louise, our young English pilgrim, on the same route as us from Isar de Hornillos, caught up when we arrived at the Cruz. We took photos of her at the top of the mound, where she placed her stone. Following tradition, she then continued over the other side without looking back. She was walking further than us to stay in another town for the night.

Not long after leaving Cruz de Ferro, we passed through the one-man town of Manjarin. Here, pilgrims can seek emergency refuge at the shelter.

There’s more climbing through a forest to emerge at the top of Monte Grago. The views of the mountains and plains from the path were breathtaking. We continued to be in awe of the scenery. With the fluffy cotton ball clouds below us, we felt we were on top of the world.

Lunch in El Acebo

We sat at a lookout to eat our apples before descending into El Acebo. The small town is pretty and was a welcome break after four hours of walking!

A cafe with a covered outdoor seating area looking over the valley was at the entrance of the town. They were making and selling crepes on the side of the road. It was the perfect lunch option.

With no other customers, Swiss man David and his Dutch wife are happy to talk about their life in El Acebo. They had moved from Ireland with their two children to run the cafe and four-room hostel.

They shared that spring and autumn are busy times on the Camino. In the summer months, a steady stream of pilgrims came through. The winters are cold and bleak and the mountain track is almost unpassable. However, they had seen some pilgrims emerging from the path we had just arrived from in February having trekked through the snow!

Steep and rocky descents to the valley

The main street of El Acebo was quiet as we wandered down and back on the path. A little confused about whether we were on the right path, we stayed on the road leading downhill, but halfway down, we noticed people on a brush track running a few hundred metres away.

Not long after, we were on another steep and rocky descent into Riego de Ambros. The landscape here is wild and unspoilt and we slowed down to take it all in as we picked our way down.

Riego de Ambros

Riego de Ambros is a pretty 12th-century village seemingly a bit larger than El Acebo. There are fewer lodgings and more homes for the locals. The Ermita de San Sebastian stands in the middle of the village.

The rocky track to Molinesca

Our hiking poles helped us traverse another rocky and uneven track, which was extremely steep in many places. The track took us into the valley and on the fringe of Molinesca.

We peered into the Shrine of Ermita de Nuestra Senora de las Angustias, passing it on the roadside as we walked into Molinesca. The church is set apart at one end of the town. It was originally built in the 11th century. Destroyed by a fire, it was then rebuilt in the 15th century.

Molinaseca

We had caught glimpses of Iglesia de San Nicolas de Bari spire but were unprepared for the beautiful sight as we arrived at Molinaseca proper. The church is set on one side of the town. It’s where pilgrims can have their pilgrim’s passport stamped.

Although our hotel wasn’t far away, we couldn’t resist the temptation to soak up the holiday atmosphere around us. We found a spare bench shaded by trees in the park by the river to eat our protein bar and have well-deserved rest. The final 9km took us 2.5 hours because of the precariously rocky descent.

After resting, it was time to go to our hotel at the other end of town. We walked along the town’s main street, Calle Real, which reinforced how beautiful this little medieval town with a population of under 900 is.

Exploring Molinaseca

After checking in and completing our arrival routine, we retraced our steps back into the main part of the town. This time, we walked at a slower pace, taking in the atmosphere and stopping to look at the small plazas and coats of arms that adorned many of the houses along Calle Real.

The area around Puente de los Peregrinos was the liveliest. Locals and pilgrims alike had moved to the riverside cafes. Tables were at a premium but we found one at a bar on the church side of the bridge where we could enjoy a refreshing tinto de verano while we caught up on journaling.

Our evening meal was at the restaurant of El Palacio Hotel overlooking the river. We settled at an outdoor table for a delicious dinner while engaging in a little people-watching.

Our “Quiet Americans” from a few days ago were sitting close by. She looked more comfortable than the last time we saw her. On the other hand, he had injured himself coming down that final steep slope. They had decided to stay an extra day in Molinaseca to recover.

We were forever grateful for our hiking poles which assisted us in navigating down the slopes. We had seen people bounding uncontrollably down rocky slopes, injuring themselves.

Our accommodation

Our overnight stay was at No-Mad Green Hotel. This four-star green hotel is at the other end of Molinaseca from the bridge.

Our room was a standard hotel room and eco-friendly. There was a beautiful outdoor area at the rear where guests could relax and a restaurant with outdoor facilities at the front where we enjoyed a delicious and substantial breakfast the next morning.

The highlight of the day

The stunning entrance to the town over the 12th-century Roman bridge, Puente de los Peregrinos, took us by surprise. It was a beautiful summer day. Locals were swimming in the Rio Meruelo or sunbathing on the banks. Others, including pilgrims, were lunching at the taverns and cafes lining the park by the river.

It was an uplifting way to arrive after a long and hard day of trekking.

Walking statistics

• 25km
• 6.5 hours including a rest break

Day 28 – Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo

Breakfast was served later than usual, at 7:30 am. The delightful spread prepared us for another long day of walking the full Camino de Santiago. The staff at the No-Mad hotel set our table with a platter of mixed fresh fruit, toast topped with traditional Spanish tomato paste and jams, a selection of cheese, ham, chorizo, waffles with berries, and cake. This delicious breakfast was accompanied by freshly brewed coffee.

An easy walk to Ponferrada

Our roadside walk to Ponferrada was pleasant and straightforward. The trail was relatively quiet. As we neared Ponferrada we passed a couple of young Korean men and caught up with their two companions a while later. They had started from El Acebo early that morning. They had found the trail leading down to Molinaseca very difficult.

Leaving them behind, we walked through the outer neighbourhoods of the town with an American couple. They had started their walk ten days after us, averaging up to 40km per day, so they could reach Sarria to meet a friend who would walk with them for the remainder of the Camino. We left them behind at a cafe in front of the castle where they stopped for coffee.

Ponferrada

Ponferrada, like Astorga, was once a large Roman settlement. The town has a long history having been overtaken by the Visigoths and North Africans before the Knights of the Templars arrived to make Ponferrada a stopping point and refuge for Camino pilgrims.

The impressive walls of Castillo de los Templars greeted us as we rounded the corner towards the main part of the old town. With a long walk ahead of us, we didn’t stop to look inside, instead we had a quick look around the old town area.

Plaza Virgen de la Encina is the heart of Ponferrada with the Basilica de Nuestra Senora de la Encina at one end. Eating establishments line the other side of the square. It would be a lively place to visit in the evening.

The clock tower reminded us of the one we had seen in Rouen.

Country lanes and vineyards to Villafranca del Bierzo

With several streets leading out of Plaza Virgen de la Encina and no visible signage, we lost our orientation but were quickly back on track. Suddenly, we were on flat wildflower-lined lanes with mountains on one side and trees drooping with apples, pears, apricots and pomegranates on the other. In between were bushes of ripening blueberries and blackberries.

Small villages appeared intermittently. We chose Fuente Nuevos for water and comfort. It gave our feet a breather.

Cacabelos

Just before we arrived in Cacabelos, the fruit trees thinned out and were replaced by grapevines.

At first, Cacabelos seemed like some of the other one-street towns we had passed through. We stopped at the first eating establishment open for lunch in case nothing was open further along. They served us a delicious salad (our regular lunch when we travel) followed by a glass of refreshing lemon beer to sustain us through the rest of the afternoon.

A walk through the vineyards to Villafranca del Bierzo

As we left Cacabelos, we began to see more vineyards, and soon we found ourselves walking through them. The dirt track became reddish brown and wound up and downhill past small villages in the Burbia Valley. It was hot and weary work but the scenery was breathtaking and that along with the help of our trusty hiking poles, carried us to Villafranca del Bierzo.

The town has a population of just over 3000. When we finally arrived, we saw no sign of this. However, that may have been because our accommodation was at the town’s entrance.

After stretching and a shower, we walked downhill for drinks and dinner. Plaza Mayor is the heart of the town and while quiet when we arrived, it livened up as the evening progressed. As we were leaving, our American walking companions from Ponferrada arrived for their evening meal, along with a few other familiar faces from earlier in the day.

Our accommodation

Hostal la Puerta del Perdon is a small seven-bedroom accommodation. It appears as you emerge after an afternoon walking on paths lined with vineyards.

The rooms are tastefully decorated with stone walls and homely timber furniture. There is a restaurant and bar downstairs. The restaurant kitchen was closed for the evening, so a delicious dinner was provided by the restaurant, El Camino in Plaza Mayor.

The restaurant was open in the morning to provide us with a hearty breakfast to send us off the next morning.

Walking statistics

• 32km
• 7.45 hours including a rest and lunch break

In case you missed it

The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. It’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain. Read our walking the full Camino de Santiago experience from Day 1 by clicking the link below.

Walking the Full Camino – Days 1 and 2 – St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles and Roncesvalles to Akaretta

By now we had become immersed in walking the full Camino de Santiago. We looked forward to the cathartic regime of stepping outdoors into whatever the day would bring. We left the sleepy town of Villar Mazarife behind on Day 25 for Astorga. On Day 26 we went on to the tiny village of Rabanal del Camino.

Day 25 – Villar de Mazarife to Astorga – 29km

After toast, jam, fried eggs, orange juice, and coffee at Tio Pepe’s bar, we hit the trail at 7:40 a.m. for another long day of walking.

The sun rose at the end of the long straight road towards the enchanting silhouette of the mountains ahead. This was one of our longest walking days.

We arrived in Villavante, a rustic-looking small town of 56 inhabitants. The streets were deserted, and it seemed the residents were out of town.

Stepping back in time in Hospital de Orbigo

With nowhere to stop and rest, we continued for 6km to arrive at Puente del Paso Honroso. The 20-arched Roman bridge was built in the 13th century to access Hospital de Orbigo over the Orbigo River. As with other bridges we had crossed water no longer flows under the bridge.

The bridge sets the scene for the town’s atmosphere. The Knights of the Templar and the Knights of Malta have left remnants of their time in this medieval town. It felt like we had stepped back in time wandering for a spot to rest. We had walked for a solid three hours without stopping.

The Camino Way to San Justo de la Vega

Leaving the Hospital de Orbigo, the road provided two options. We could follow the Camino Way to Astorga. Another option was the highway track to Astorga. It runs next to the highway for 10km before rejoining the Camino Way.

We stayed on the Camino Way passing through corn and wheat fields. Slightly longer than the highway path, the trail was dry, and dusty without much around. But we thought it would be more scenic than walking alongside the highway.

The scenery changed as the day progressed passing through several settlements. Fortunately, we had decided to stop in Villares de Orbigo for water. Nothing was open in the other villages. Much of the remaining walk was on a dirt and stone-covered trail. The landscape changed from corn and wheat fields to groves of trees. We also walked through fields of wildflowers as we went up and downhill.

San Justo de la Vega

We emerged from the long and lonely trail. We arrived at Crucero de Santo Toribio. The large cross looked out to views of Astorga in the distance.

One final descent before we passed through the San Justo de la Vega township heading towards Astorga.

San Justo de la Vega is a small township. The trail led down the main street, the perfect place to stop at a cafe for lunch.

The walk into Astorga

The rest of the way to Astorga was straightforward over the Tuerto River along country paths and residential areas. The Roman walls of the town towered in front of us. We walked more uphill. We crossed a bridge which zigzagged over railway lines. Then we entered old town Astorga on the Camino route.

A lone guitarist serenaded pilgrims as they passed through the Puerto del Sol gateway. A Portuguese couple had walked a section of the Camino and entered the gateway with us. They wanted to escape the summer festival season in their home town. They stopped with us to listen for a while.

Further into the town, we noticed stages were set up in the spectacular Plaza Espana. Many people were walking around in Roman costumes. The Festival of Asturia y Romanos was in full swing (see below for more about the city’s Roman heritage). The Portuguese couple had avoided one festival by stepping into another!

Astorga

The Romans overtook Astorga from the Celtic Astures more than 2000 years ago. Since then, Astorga has a long Roman history. As the Romans developed the city, it became an intersection of two routes. These routes were the Camino Frances (Camino de Santiago) and the Ruta de la Plata. The Ruta de la Plata is an ancient Roman route. It was used to transport metal from the mines in the north to ports in the south.

We located our hotel and were excited that it was right by two of the city’s most prominent buildings. There was time to explore later. First, we had to check into the hotel, stretch and freshen up after the long hot walk.

An evening in Astorga

We booked an outdoor table at the hotel restaurant for later that evening. It faced the roadside. Then, we set off to sightsee.

We retraced our steps and returned to Plaza Espana. The terrace behind Hotel Via de la Plata offered a view of the countryside. It was the same landscape we had walked through only a few hours earlier. The bars in the narrow alley we passed on the way to the terrace were crowded with youngsters dressed as Romans socialising.

Making our way back to our hotel side of town we met the three Korean youngsters we had met on the way to Astorga. Two youngsters were studying at a seminary and the third told us she was using the Camino de Santiago to contemplate her future and joining the seminary. They had been walking with an older man who was a pastor in their church.

Catedral de Santa Maria

The Gothic Catedral de Santa Maria was built on the site of an old Romanesque church. Construction commenced in the 15th century and took nearly three centuries to finish. Its towers and spires are reminiscent of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.

Gaudi’s Episcopal Palace

Renowned architect, Antoni Gaudi moved to Astorga to build the Episcopal Palace at the end of the 19th century. It is one of only three buildings, Gaudi designed outside of Barcelona. The Bishop’s Palace was repurposed into a pilgrim’s museum in the early 1960s and today, the Palace and its grounds are the most visited monuments in Astorga.

Festival of Asturia y Romanos

The atmosphere in the small square by the cathedral and palace was festive. Musicians sat playing their instruments. They were preparing for a parade later in the evening.

The festival and reenactment of the city’s Asturian and Roman heritage is held annually at the last weekend of July. Astorgians, including children and babies, stroll up and down the main street. They are dressed in traditional costumes. Over 1000 locals join in the parade every evening. It leads from the cathedral to Plaza Espana.

We were lucky to enjoy the colourful parade from our front-row seats at the hotel restaurant. Louise, one of the young pilgrims in our “gang” was lodging at another hotel. She joined us for a pre-dinner wine and the show.

Our accommodation

Our hotel, Hotel Spa Ciudad de Astorga was comfortable and well-appointed across from the Episcopal Palace and cathedral. It was also on the path which led us past the cathedral and out of the city the next morning.

A small hotel with only 33 rooms, we found our room modern and comfortable with all the usual amenities.

Our meals: dinner and breakfast, were of good quality and plentiful.

Walking statistics

• 29km
• 7 hours including a rest break

Day 26 – Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

We were up early to phone family on the other side of the world. By 7:30 am, we had breakfasted and were ready to leave.

Turning to look at the Cathedral under the rising sun we walked along the empty street leading out of town.

Changing landscapes

The Camino de Santiago path steadily took us uphill passing through a couple of small villages. The gradient was so gradual that we hardly noticed it. The mist and dark clouds above us cleared and after more than two weeks we heard cowbells in the distance.

The landscape changed just before and after we stopped in El Ganso. With a population of under 30, there’s not much in the village but it served its purpose as a rest stop. Our three Korean youngsters had also stopped. They shared a photo of us that one of them had taken the day before. We noticed that the young man regularly powered ahead alone before stopping to wait for the girls to catch up.

A pretty forest track led us uphill on a terrain of slate and rock. We carefully climbed over the terrain making our way into the small village of Rabanal del Camino.

An overnight stay in Rabanal del Camino

Rabanal del Camino is a small village with a couple of streets. Lodgings are at the top of the rise on the main street. Traditional stone houses of the Maragato (mountain) people of the area line both sides of the street. The slate fencing reminded us of those in the Yorkshire Dales.

The day’s walk was short. We arrived in Rabanal del Camino in time for lunch. Making our way up the main street, we looked out for a lunch venue. A garden area attached to a small grocery store and cafe caught our attention and we agreed it was the perfect spot for lunch and coffee. Louise trudged up the path while we ate our disappointing lunch and instant coffee heated in a microwave!

In contrast, we found our pretty hotel with lovely accommodation to settle into after lunch. The hotel thoughtfully had a little open-air courtyard covered in washing lines allowing us to handwash our laundry. We stretched and showered before venturing out again to explore.

Relaxing in Rabanal del Camino

Our Korean friends arrived to attend the service in the church across the street. They walked to the next town for their overnight stay after the service. No others were about and after a circuit of the village we retired to the comfort of the upstairs lounge of our hotel to watch another episode of The Crown on our tablet.

Outside it was bright and sunny but a crisp breeze was blowing so we settled in the hotel’s bar area to enjoy a jug of the hotel’s red house wine while we transcribed our thoughts of the day past in our journals.

A Michelin equivalent meal in Rabanal

Once the restaurant opened we moved a few steps from the bar to a table for our evening meal. The owner provided another jug of wine, we settled in to be served one of the best meals on our Camino. The meal consisted of a bean and vegetable soup followed by fish cakes accompanied by roasted zucchini and capsicum. Desert was chocolate cake and cheesecake. The meal of traditional Maragato cuisine was plentiful, well-presented and delicious.

Stepping outside after our meal, Louise who was having dinner alone at an outdoor table at her hotel across the road. She beckoned us to join her to discuss our walking day.

Our accommodation

El Refugio Hosteria, is a 1-star lodge with 5-star service. The lodge was small and intimate. We found our room comfortable and appreciated the communal lounge on the landing upstairs. The facility to wash and dry our clothing was a bonus.

As mentioned above, our evening meal and breakfast were delicious, and Antonio and his family provided an exceptional stay.

Walking statistics

• 20km
• 4.5 hours including a rest break

Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?

The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. It’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.

Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago? Read our blog post:

Everything you need to know about walking the full Camino de Santiago.

Or, if you would like to follow our journey from Day 1, click on the link below:

Walking the Full Camino – Days 1 and 2 – St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles and Roncesvalles to Akaretta

A scheduled rest day in elegant Leon was a treat. It gave us time to look around and absorb the unique atmosphere of this little-known treasure in northern Spain. We continued walking the full Camino de Santiago on Day 24 arriving in the tiny town of Villar de Mazarife for an overnight stay before continuing to the old Roman city of Astorga.

Day 23 – A rest day from walking the full Camino de Santiago

Although eager to see more of the beautiful city of Leon, we indulged ourselves with a leisurely start to our day. The service at breakfast was better than the evening before. Our evening waiter was back on duty but this time he had assistance.

A day off from the trail allowed us to catch up on our laundry and with that chore complete we dedicated the remainder of the day to exploring the city.

A visit to the morning markets in Plaza Mayor

Our first stop was in Plaza Mayor which had transformed into colourful fruit and vegetable markets for the morning. We spent time looking at the abundance of fresh produce on offer.

We next walked to Plaza de Santa Santo Domingo where we booked an early evening guided tour of the Palacio de los Guzmanes. The Palacio stands prominently next to Gaudi’s equally impressive Casa Botines.

A train tour around Leon’s old town

With plenty of time to spare, we bought tickets and hopped on the tourist train for a more informed tour of the old town. As the train set off we found that the commentary was conducted only in Spanish and French so we both pulled out our phones to follow the commentary through Google Translate.

Despite not having an English-speaking description, the train ride was informative and gave a thorough overview of this city. The city has much to offer within and outside the old city walls. The train took us to the other side of the Cathedral to see the more intact city walls and the other city portal.

The newer part of the city, accessed from Plaza de Santo Domingo, is outside the old city walls. With its spectacular fountain, it’s as captivating as the old town, with stunning buildings lining the Gran Via de San Marcos.

An afternoon in Leon

After the train tour, we strolled to the city portal before moving on to Plaza San Isidoro hoping to look inside the Basilica. Our guidebook mentioned it was worth a visit. Unfortunately, the Basilica was closed so we continued to the Parque de El Cid. It’s a quiet space a few steps away and a good place to retreat from the heat for a breather. We also took the opportunity to visit the square with the statue of King Alfonso IX who ruled as the King of Leon until he died in 1230.

A guided tour of Palacio de los Guzmanes

We found ourselves in the entrance hall of the Palacio with a dozen other tourists before the tour began at 5:15 pm. All the other attendees were Spanish and while the guide spoke to us in English she advised that the tour would be in Spanish. Our phones came out again and Google Translate came in handy. A kind Spanish man who spoke English filled the gaps as we went.

Since 1882, Palacio de los Guzmanes has been the seat of the Leonese Provincial Government. The mansion was built in the 16th century for the Guzmans, a noble family, to display their wealth and power and impress their enemies.

The tour started in the courtyard leading from the entrance before proceeding up a formal staircase to the upper gallery. The upper gallery is the most impressive floor of the building. Archways enclosed by windows embedded with stained glass features overlook the courtyard below.

The best was saved for last when we were led into the wood-panelled Government chambers with its walls covered in beautiful tapestries.

Casa Botines

The other important building in Plaza de Santo Domingo is the Gaudi-designed Casa Botines. Completed in 1894, the building was initially used as a department store specialising in textiles and then housed the Caja Espana bank. In 2017, it was reopened as an exhibition space displaying Gaudi’s architecture and works by other artists. Outside the building, is a photo opportunity with the distinguished architect, a bench seat with a sculpture of Gaudi for visitors to sit beside.

An evening in Leon

After the one-hour tour of the Palacio had finished, we rewound our way to Plaza Mayor. The square had been cleared of the morning’s market stalls and lunchtime crowds so we could admire the colonaded buildings surrounding the open space. Built between 1654 and 1677, it is one of the oldest in Spain.

The main building in the square is El Mirador, the Town Hall. These days it houses offices for other businesses with the local government utilising it only for official ceremonies and celebrations.

Many bars, restaurants and taverns can be found in the square and the surrounding streets. We sat down for a relaxed hour at an outdoor table in one of the square’s bars enjoying pre-dinner aperitifs. Pizzas accompanied by local wine completed our evening in the next street where our table continued to allow us to see activity in the square.

Our conclusion

Leon is a virtual art museum comprising Baroque buildings, outstanding monuments, churches, the Cathedral and well-dressed city dwellers.

The city is a hidden gem which isn’t given great importance in travel guides. Apart from the obvious Camino pilgrims, we found no evidence of other foreign tourists apart from Spain during our stay. Our stay was very authentic and we were glad to have decided to stay the extra night in the city.

Day 24 – Leon to Villar de Mazarife

Parador de Leon

We left Leon after our hearty hotel breakfast following the yellow markers on the pavement. Leaving the city, we walked past the Convento San Marco. The impressive building was built in the 12th century as a convent and hospital for pilgrims. Today, as a Parador the historic building continues to cater for pilgrims and tourists in its modern hotel accommodation surrounded by art collections and frescoed ceilings.

The road to Villar de Mazarife

Some nine kilometres later following a carefree young pilgrim with a feather in his hat, we reached the city’s outskirts with small settlements dotted through the countryside.

More bodegas tucked into the hillsides along the trail provided our only distraction. The walk became boring and monotonous with nothing else to amuse us than the young feathered fellow ahead. He soon disappeared when we stopped at a bench in a little town for a rest and to have our bananas.

After climbing a steep rise following our break, open pastures appeared again. We felt we were the only ones on the trail until we caught up with a steady stream of pilgrims close to Villar de Mazarife.

Villar de Mazarife

The quaint little town of Villar de Mazarife (pop 360) welcomed us with a beautiful roadside mural at the entrance.

Our overnight accommodation Tio Pepe was close to the middle of the town across from the church. The church’s courtyard has a lovely statue of a tired pilgrim looking over the road ahead.

Young fellow pilgrim, Louise emerged from Tio Pepe as we were about to enter. Looking hot, tired and distressed. Her accommodation was another 6km away and she was experiencing knee pain. We handed over one of the braces we carried in our day pack in anticipation of knee injuries we might experience to assist with her final leg.

Almost every day, if we were walking close to the road, we saw the van transporting our luggage pass by and felt reassured that our two suitcases would be waiting for us at our destination. This was the first time we arrived before our bags.

Fortunately, we were ready for lunch which we enjoyed in the sunny covered courtyard where we were the only guests. Our bags arrived not long after and when we emerged after freshening up, a sole guest was having lunch in the courtyard and he wasn’t a pilgrim. Over a Google Translate conversation, we learnt he was from the beautiful town of Avila not far from Madrid holidaying at his country home close to Villar de Mazarife. The tranquillity of being in the countryside and tending his garden in his country home brings him back several times a year. He lunched at Tio Pepe daily.

An afternoon and evening in Villar de Mazarife

Refreshed, we set out to explore the town. The streets were deserted but noises came from the open windows of the roadside houses. A pretty park is the only highlight and our exploring takes less than 30 minutes before we return to relax in our room over another episode of The Crown.

Cooler evening temperatures enticed us back into the courtyard shade to write in our journals sipping our daily complimentary bottle of local wine.

As evening drew in, the courtyard filled with pilgrims staying at the other albergue in town. The bar and restaurant are known for their excellent and well-priced “menu del dia”.

We were surprised to see Canadian Camille arrive and invited her to join us at our table. We had expected that she would have walked ahead of us by a day. She told us she had succumbed to her cold symptoms and stayed an extra night in Leon to recover. Amid the quiet hum of conversations around us, she confided her reason for walking the Camino de Santiago. The time walking allowed her to contemplate her long-term future. Her partner is 76 years old and she 40.

Our accommodation

Meson Tio Pepe offers private and dorm-style accommodation for pilgrims on the Camino. The building is over 70 years old and is a typical traditional Meseta house.

Our private room, accessed from the enclosed courtyard was small but functional. As mentioned above, we spent most of our evening enjoying the space in the quiet courtyard until after dinner.

Walking statistics

• 23km
• 5.5 hours including a rest break

Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?

The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.

Follow our 38-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.

Walking the Full Camino – Days 1 and 2 – St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles and Roncesvalles to Akaretta