Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Category: Egypt

A Luxury Escape to Egypt

31/12/2019 / / 1 Comment
The Pyramids of Giza

The Pyramids of Giza and The Sphinx

Is Egypt a safe place to visit? Events of recent years ensured the country was not high on our list of countries to visit independently. A chance sighting of a newspaper advertisement spiked our interest and ultimately gave us an opportunity we had not previously considered.

We jumped at the chance and booked “The Sights of Egypt”: A 12 day Tour with a Nile River Cruise and International flights, a small group tour offered by Luxury Escapes.

The booking experience

Luxury Escapes teams with other travel brands and partners to negotiate and provide value-driven holiday packages. The online booking process was simple and easy to navigate providing comprehensive detail about the tour, availability, pricing, and information on inclusions and exclusions. However, this particular package not a last-minute special. To ensure our spaces were reserved, we booked and paid nine months in advance. Note: There is a “Book Now, Pay Later” option available for some packages.

A confirmation email was received with a follow-up email requesting passenger information from the booking agent. All further dealings related to our travel arrangements were conducted with Destination International Holidays, the booking agent responsible for our tour. We were provided with an opportunity to specify our preferred airline or a partner airline for flights and to upgrade our hotel accommodation at additional rates.

There was little interaction with Destination International Holidays. Having received no further communication after our initial booking correspondence, we phoned them a couple of months prior to make sure our travel was scheduled. They confirmed and assured us that we would receive travel information closer to our travel time.

Destination International forwarded travel documentation, a detailed itinerary with supporting information and an opportunity to add and pay for additional visits/tours (prices were cheaper than paying on site a few weeks prior to our departure.

The tour experience

Our small group tour catered for up to 16 people. We were very lucky to have only 8 people in our group. And, within a couple of days, we discovered that we were among like-minded people which added, for us, a new dimension to travelling on a tour.

We enjoy researching our destinations when travelling independently, educating ourselves on the local history and culture. On this tour, we were assigned not just a tour guide but a historian. Amir, who provided in-depth historical background behind all the sights, towns and cities we visited. In fact, he was a little annoyed whenever we got caught up with taking photos instead of listening to his commentary.

Instead of finding our own way from the airport to our accommodation, we were treated to exemplary service by being greeted at the airport, guided through the visa procedure and taken to our transport to our hotel and checked in.

Of course, we did not have to queue for admittance to the major sights and attractions.

Armed with advice from Amir, there was ample free time throughout the tour to explore cities independently and to join up for visits to the main sights. We were grateful to have the benefit of Amir’s expertise as he provided historical commentary and background throughout our visits to major sites. If we had been travelling independently, we would not have appreciated the historical significance behind so many of the places we visited.

The accommodation

We decided to take the premium accommodation option and were glad we did. Our accommodation in Cairo at the five-star Ramses Hilton right in the centre of Cairo. It provided us with an opportunity to explore life in central Cairo on our own, taste local cuisine and wander the back streets to see the real Cairo and its inhabitants.

Our accommodation in Alexandria was the historic Steigenberger Cecil Hotel. Situated on the scenic waterfront, we were treated with beautiful views of the Mediterranean, a walkway along the waterfront and markets and shops right outside the hotel door.

Our home for seven nights’ cruise was Princess Sarah II. While not as elegant as a few of the other upmarket riverboats we came across cruising the Nile, it was typical of many others plying up and down the River Nile. Our room was large and comfortable with a seating area allowing us to relax and watch life on the River. The top deck was well equipped with a swimming pool (although it was a little cool to swim in March), plenty of sunbeds and undercover seating to sit and watch the captivating scenery pass by. It was also the best place to watch the riverboat manoeuvre through the lock system and the daring hawkers attach their small sailing crafts to our riverboat to barter their wares to us.

The grand staircase of the Princess Sarah II

The grand staircase of the Princess Sarah II

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Hawkers touting their wares on the River Nile

The highlights

The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, Cairo – The last remaining of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Pyramids are much bigger than we imagined and the Sphinx was much smaller than we had envisaged. We were grateful for having access to an Egyptologist who provided us with historical background about the Pyramids and how they were built; and guidance about which underground burial chambers we should climb down into.

The Karnak Temple of Amun, Luxor – This impressive temple complex was our introduction to the many temples in Egypt and one of the largest religious complexes in the world. Entering through the Avenue of Rams is spectacular as we catch sight of the huge pillars and obelisks. Walking among the magnificent columns of the Hypostyle Hall and learning about the meanings behind the hieroglyphics on each pillar was a highlight.

The Avenue of the Rams

The Avenue of the Rams

The Valley of the Kings, Luxor – Our visit commences early so we are treated to visiting the Valley when it is relatively empty. The three tombs we visit are well preserved and the inscriptions and vivid drawings on the walls take the breath away. Words cannot describe thousands of years of history and culture hidden in these underground treasures. Reliefs, frescoes and hieroglyphics line the walls into the main tomb areas and antechambers.

Sobek Temple, Kom Ombo – Our twilight visit to the Sobek Temple commenced with docking in Kom Ombo with a view of this beautiful hilltop temple. The temple precinct was teaming with both local and foreign tourists but a pleasant stop nonetheless. We enjoyed a little spare time following the temple visit wandering through the market stalls which lined the riverside dock.

The Great Temple of Ramses, Abu Simbel – Definitely worth rising at 3:30am for the 230km early morning drive on the desert sand road to the temple site on the banks of Lake Nasser. We are distracted by the beauty of the Lake as we walk toward the temple from the behind, totally oblivious of the enormity of what we are about to see. Turning the corner, four enormous statues of Ramses II appear before us sitting majestically at the entrance. Carved out of a mountain in 1264 BC, the whole complex was covered by shifting desert sands and its magnificence lost to the world until a Swiss explorer discovered it by chance in 1813 when he noticed the heads of the statues showing above the sand. Slowly uncovered, the temple complex was shifted 200 metres from its original position to higher ground under a large rescue mission involving more than 30 countries when the area was flooded to create the High Dam.

The verdict

The small group tour was a good way to undertake our first visit to Egypt. The country has undergone much upheaval since 2011 and this has affected tourism in the country. This is especially noticeable along the River Nile with many riverboats still lying idle along the banks. For us, this was an advantage. There were still many tourists about, mostly undertaking organised tours, although not as many as in the past or as is now expected as confidence in safety grows and travellers return to see the magnificence of Egypt’s ancient history.

As is usual on a bus tour, we were obliged to visit local craft and art stores in nearly every city we visited. There was no coercion by the store owners or tour directors to purchase.

For independent travellers such as ourselves used to straying away from the main tourist sights to explore, we found there was sufficient time available for us to go off and explore. The tour operators provided advice on how to conduct ourselves in this predominantly Muslim country, prepared us for the onslaught of hawkers whenever we stepped out on our own and gave general advice on staying safe. As in any country we visit, we were sensible about our safety and felt comfortable to move about on our own. However, for comfort and to enjoy the experience, we would advise female travellers to be accompanied or go out in a group.

Our conclusion: One of our fellow travellers when we asked him about what he thought about our “Luxury Escape” replied that “It was certainly a cheap escape”. We agree. The quality of accommodation, tour operators and our fellow travellers ensured we had an informative and enjoyable experience.

It was an economical introduction to a country with such a rich ancient history and feel that we have only just dipped our feet in the sand! We hope to visit again on another Luxury Escape.

And, if you are contemplating a visit to Egypt and would like to read more about our experiences and hints, you may find the following of interest:

Chaos in Cairo

Running the gauntlet in Edfu

12 things to know before visiting Egypt

Abu Simbel

The Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel

Chaos in Cairo

08/04/2019 / / 1 Comment

This is our first visit to Cairo, the Egyptian capital. Our initial impressions were formed through the window of our small shuttle bus from the airport to our downtown hotel. No sign of the Great Pyramids!

The ride was interesting. All types of vehicles manoeuvred randomly with complete disregard for the lane markings. Every passenger on the bus gasped at every near miss and even more so when it looked like we were going to be side-swiped. Our driver drove on unperturbed by the slamming of brakes and vehicles pulling in front of him. No need to use the indicators when a honk of the horn will do. Produce delivery trucks weaved among old Ladas and Fiats (all with dented panels) within centimetres of each other while avoiding the pedestrians casually walking on the motorway.

Spires of the city’s mosques spotted the horizon here and there between multi-storey apartment buildings, some of which were inhabited but looked incomplete. Furnished apartments sat next to open shells and herds of goats wandered about on the top floors of vacant buildings. Families appeared to be living in shacks on rooftops.  With no priority given to adorn the exterior of these buildings, the stark structures stood out everywhere often surrounded by rubble. Cairo resembles a warzone.

  • Apartments in Cairo
    Apartment buildings lined the motorway into central Cairo

Our guide, Amir tells us when we quiz him later that Egyptians do not consider it important to embellish the exterior of their homes. What looked like incomplete shells of homes are apartments that have been purchased by Egyptians as an investment for later use. They will be enclosed and decorated when they are ready to live in them.

Our small group is staying at the Ramses Hilton in downtown Cairo. A labyrinth of roads and flyovers obstruct what were once wonderful views of the River Nile at the entrance and hampers access to the river promenade.

Our guide suggests that we will find it difficult to negotiate the traffic and crowded streets of Cairo and instead may prefer to enjoy the hotel facilities before we commence the official tour the next morning.

However, being used to independent travel and wanting to see more of the city and how people live in this city of nearly 20million people, we hit the streets as soon as we are refreshed.

  • The busy roads of Cairo
    The busy roads along the River Nile and just outside our hotel entrance

It is early evening and peak hour.  Our aim is to cross the maze of roads to walk along the promenade. The easiest way is to tag along with the locals the first few times and by the end of the evening, we are experts.

A leisurely stroll with a tube of hot roasted peanuts picked up from a street vendor on the way brings us to 6 October Bridge to have a look at the vista up and down the river. The bridge is crowded with other tourists just like us admiring the scenery. On the way we have been accosted by Egyptian men trying to sell us boat rides on the river, asking us where we are going and offering to take us. We have read that it is pertinent not to take up these offers in case we end up purchasing an authentic handmade carpet which we have no intention of buying. This theme, we find follows us around most of Egypt. We fend off these helpful Egyptians as tactfully as possible.

  • Tahrir Square, Cairo
    We successfully dodged the traffic to cross Tahrir Square

The walk continues to Tahrir Square, another episode of dashing across roads but provides the perfect opportunity to observe the people of Cairo. Groups of young people (mostly young males) linger around the square watching cars chaotically manoeuvre themselves around the roundabout. The shopping street, Talaat Harb is laden with families out in the cold evening and eating out at simple eating houses. Eager to try Egyptian cuisine, we’re on the lookout for a suitable venue. Nothing stands out, there doesn’t seem to be any traditional restaurants visible.

We had checked online for recommendations before leaving the hotel. Café Riche is recommended by both TripAdvisor and our trusty DK Eyewitness travel guide. Dating back to the early 1900’s, the café was a meeting place for literary groups and intellectuals, as well as revolutionaries. The dark wood panelling, bookshelves and tables scattered with books and newspapers and the dimmed lighting complete with a smattering of guests emits a beautiful ambience. The menu, however, is not what we are looking for.

A little further along we reach a Talaat Harb Square. Nothing extraordinary here until we cast our eyes upwards. We are greeted with architectural magnificence, remnants of British rule in Egypt. Ornate balconies and shuttered windows look aged and neglected however, add character and elegance to the square.

  • Talaat Harb
    Evening time along historic Talaat Harb

We join the Egyptians to eat in a simple and clean chain restaurant, GAD filled with young couples, families and male work colleagues sharing a vast array of dishes – shawarma with dips, salads, Egyptian style pizzas and more. We are the only foreigners. It seems that others have taken the advice not to venture out solo.

Tired but satisfied to have made the choice to leave the hotel, we decide it is time to wander back. This time, it is along the narrow streets and back lanes where the heart of the city beats. We find auto-mechanics working away fixing up old Ladas and Fiats under dim lamps and streetlights. Cars are not thrown on the scrap heap so readily here. They are recycled.

  • Backstreets of Cairo
    The backstreets of Cairo

We do not feel threatened or worried about our safety on the way. Armed with the art of crossing the still busy roads of Cairo, we arrive back into the comfort of our hotel. A comfort that not all Egyptians have.

 It has been an enlightening first day in Egypt.

Planning a visit to Egypt. Here are our tips to ensure you enjoy your time there.

Running the gauntlet in Edfu

08/03/2019 / / 0 Comments

Our riverboat docked in the dead of night, only a short loud burst of Egyptian voices announcing our arrival.

Drawing back the curtains for his first glimpse of Edfu when we awaken, He is greeted with a view inside the cabin of another ship’s cabin!

It is not until we go up to the top deck that we see that our riverboat is sandwiched between two others and many others are docked up and downstream in a similar fashion.

Edfu is chaotic in the mornings. For a short two hours, business is booming as tourists like us from up to 100 riverboats flood the town.

Horse and carriage drivers and motorised rickshaw operators crowd the roads hustling for business, older men ply the docks selling water or cigarettes, and young unkempt boys work the crowds selling string bracelets and knick-knacks. They should be in school.

Business on Edfu riverfront
Horse and carriage drivers ready to take visitors to Edfu temple

The carriage drivers are doing a roaring trade as tourists fresh off the boat indulge in the novelty. Four of our fellow travellers board the last available carriage. Some trepidation while we remaining four take the less popular mode of transport, the auto rickshaw.

Our rickshaw driver darts in and out, maneuvring between other rickshaws, horse carriages and cars on the road while we take in the scenes of daily life playing around us.

The Temple of Edfu is not far and we arrive into the mayhem of passengers from up to 100 riverboats scrambling to enter the temple complex combined with running a gauntlet of market stalls and their owners (all selling similar products) conveniently placed at the entrance.

We’ve all learnt over the past few days that if you don’t wish to purchase anything the best way to not be harassed is to keep your head down on the way through. Do not make eye contact! If you slow down to admire an item or show any interest at all it is an indication that you are ready to buy. There is the alternative, as He often does and that is, point to another in your travel group and say they are interested.

We successfully run the gauntlet and after some pushing and shoving at the ticket gate (most tourists are from the civilised world), we enter. The remains of the Temple indicate that it was a masterpiece of Egyptian architecture and archaeological expertise.

The temple, sacred to God Horus, the falcon god dating back to 237BC was buried under sand and silt for 2000 years. It is the largest and best preserved Ptolemaic temple in Egypt.

Two granite statues of the falcon god flank the entrance to a courtyard of colonnades leading further into a chapel and surrounding rooms dedicated to gods. The striking feature is that all the walls of the complex are heavily etched and inscribed with myths. Little of the colour that would have ornamented the drawings remain and we can only imagine the magnificence of what was.

Edfu temple courtyard

A couple of hours later and we are ready to run the gauntlet again. Vendors accost us again as we leave trying to sell their trinkets, scarves and replicas. Our guide tells us to keep walking. Exiting the complex we are back in the street melee to try and find our transport back to the boat.

Safely back on board, we reflect on our visit. He and his fellow travel mate have come up with a business plan. With alcohol onboard our riverboat four times the price offshore, they maintain that Edfu’s economy will benefit greatly by selling alcohol at the docks and in front of the main attractions.

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