On this trip, we decided to stay in a smaller town to continue to discover the Loire Valley. We stayed in the larger city of Tours on a previous visit because it is central and provided easy access to both the southwest and south-eastern parts of the valley. Our stay in Chinon exceeded our expectations ensuring we were in the heart of the Valley.
Discover the Loire Valley
We’ve put together some of our highlights below without giving too much away (we want you to discover the history and beauty for yourselves). However, if you’d like more information or clarification on any of the below or our experiences, please feel free to contact us or ask us in the comments section below.
Chinon
We stayed in Chinon for an authentic Loire Valley experience and found it has all that and more. The city is small enough to be easily walked and large enough to provide plenty of accommodation and dining options when you’ve had a long day visiting the attractions in the surrounding countryside. Remember to save a day to explore Chinon’s cobblestone alleyways and streets too. The town has much to offer.
And, be sure to check with the Tourist Office in the centre of town for any local events that may be happening while you’re in town. We were lucky to be there and attend an outdoor jazz night which was being held on the banks of the river one evening.
Chateau de Chinon
The Chateau de Chinon (the Fortress) sits high above the town. It looks down on you wherever you are in the town. It’s easily accessible by a lift in the town’s main parking area or, if you prefer the experience of taking the old route, there’s a medieval cobbled pathway and steps in the centre of town. The original castle dates back to the 10th century but it was extended and became a fortress in 1154 when Henry II took residence. For the French, the fortress played an important part in the country’s history, the fortress is where Joan of Arc met with King Charles VII and persuaded him the give her an army to liberate Orleans in the Hundred Years’ War. Today the most prominent part of the fortress is the clock tower and the fortress walls.
Church of Saint Etienne
Constructed between 1460 and 1490, we loved its Gothic facade. Pop you inside and have a look at the stained glass windows which tell stories of the city’s history.
Stroll on Rue Rabelais and Rue Voltaire
Take a stroll along this pedestrian-only street and look up at the medieval houses that line the street. It’s also where you’ll find the best shopping, restaurants, bars and cafes. There are more medieval homes along Rue Voltairen including the Red House that are worth looking at.
Chapelle de Radegonde
Tucked away on the hillside above Chinon Old Town is Chappelle de Radegonde It’s a pleasant walking trail which you can enter quite close to the Fortress, with panoramic views over Chinon and beyond, small vineyards and cave dwellings along the way. The 12th-century chapel lay in ruin for many years before being gradually restored. Unfortunately for us, the chapel wasn’t open when we passed by in the early morning. However, we found quite a few cave dwellings along the trail which are slowly being restored too.
Church of Sait Marurice and Haute Saint Maurice Place
We were fortunate to stay in an apartment next door to this Church. Low key with a pretty courtyard in front, the Church is renowned for its beautiful organ. One of the parishioners who welcomed visitors at the front door mentioned that the organ was undergoing maintenance. Whichever way, we were treated to melodic organ music every evening during our stay.
M Plouzeau Wine Caves
Set into the rock at the base of the Fortress are the M Plouzeau Caves. The caves were created as a result of the stone quarried to build the fortress. Today, the cool natural climate of the caves houses the wines of Chinon’s well-known wineries. It’s open for tastings and a nice spend a couple of hours on a hot summer day.
Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau
A short drive from Chinon you’ll find the sandstone villages of Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau. Both towns are situated along the Loire River and blend into each other so it’s hard to avoid visiting one and not the other.
Candes Saint Martin has a medieval path which you can follow leading to an open space surrounded by vineyards which provide panoramic views over the immediate countryside.
Montsoreau’s highlight is its chateau, Chateau de la Dame de Montsoreau. Take a moment to enjoy the street filled with sandstone homes and the Town Hall in the adjoining street.
Both towns are listed among the prettiest villages in the area. We found them to be unremarkable. We researched before we visited. Maybe we missed something.
Fontevraud Abbaye
The village of Fontevrand l’Abbaye, a little further from Montsoreau was bustling with visitors when we arrived. Most were visiting the 10th-century Abbey and monastery. The village has some pretty little side streets and alleys and a lovely courtyard in front of the Abbaye entrance.
Saumur
We stopped in Saumur on our drive to Chinon from Brittany. You can drive there quite easily from Chinon on the main toll road but we recommend you take the scenic route on the country roads along the Loire and Vence Rivers enjoying the scenery as you go.
The main reason for our stop was to see the Chateau de Saumur. Perched high on the hill overlooking the city, it’s hard not to miss. The chateau started out as a fortress in the 900s and was converted to a chateau in the 1400s. You can visit inside. The panoramic views from the grounds of the Chateau are more than worth the visit.
Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau
A stunning turreted chateau situated in the heart of the town and surrounded by lush greenery on park-like grounds. The castle’s point of difference is climbing the stairway in the middle of the castle with views down to the grand entrance and bridge which you have crossed. Amble through the quarters to see how life was lived in Chateau’s heyday.
Stroll the grounds and around the ponds after you visit inside and make sure you walk through the town afterwards. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to have a bite to eat and drink.
Chateau de Langeais
Chateau de Langeais looms grandly over the small township when you arrive in the city of Langeais. It’s very much part of the township.. If you’re arriving in the summer months as we did, you will be greeted with aby a dainty flower-filled street leading to the castle complete with a drawbridge.
You will be able to visit the Castle and its gardens at leisure as it’s not high on the tourist trail. All the more reason to stop by, even if it’s for a peek from the outside.
Chateau d’’Usse
We were driving along a quiet country road along the edge of the forest on one side and the Loire River on the other and suddenly the chateau known locally as the Sleeping Beauty castle appeared. Perched above the roadside complete with a grand entrance over an arched bridge, towers and manicured gardens it’s a regal chateau from all aspects.
Chateau Villandry
One of the jewels of the Loire Valley and our favourite in this part of the Valley. One of the region’s more formal chateaus it emanates an air of opulence. The visit inside provides a glimpse of how the other half lived and a walk through the gardens is delightful, from the carefully manicured hedges to the symmetrical vegetable gardens and terraced areas.
Chateau d’Amboise
We took the drive from Chinon to Amboise on the Chateau Trail. It’s the furthest away from Chinon. Amboise is popular on the trail with visitors opting to stay and come from near and far. It was the busiest of the chateau we visited. When we arrived the whole of the historic town surrounding the Chateau was buzzing.
There is no doubt you will see it from the road as you drive into the city. It holds a commanding and strategic position set high on the hill within the historic centre. It’s worth walking along the riverside to take in the view of the Chateau from the riverside before going closer.
Where we stayed
We stayed in an apartment, Nature and Chateaux in the centre of the historic centre in Chinon. Well appointed and decorated in period furniture, The apartment was well located in the heart of the old town and within walking distance of all the sights and eateries. Our apartment had views up to the fortress and along the streets of the Old Town.
Hint: Don’t be tempted to take the cheaper option and stay on the other side of the river. The best part of staying in the Old Town is being part of the local scene at the end of the day and early morning when there are few or no other tourists around.
Dining options in Chinon
We enjoyed meals at several restaurants in the heart of Chinon:
- Jean of France Restaurant in the main square, Place de General de Gaulle.
- La Table de Jeanne on Re Voltaire and a stone’s throw from our apartment, Nature & Chateaux.
- Les Saveurs d’Italie, in Place de General de Gaulle
And, if you’re looking for a quality croissant or pastry, drop into the patisserie in Place Mirabeau. Be prepared to join the queue.
Our thoughts and recommendations
We loved our stay in Tours on a previous visit. Choosing to stay in Chinon provided us with the opportunity to see and do more while experiencing staying in a small medieval town. All villages and chateaus were easily accessible without travelling long distances and allowed us to linger where we wanted.
It’s easy to try and fit in visits inside lots of castles. We recommend choosing one or two to truly appreciate them. We compare visiting too many castles to visiting too many museums. After a while, you forget what was so special about each one. Save one or two to look forward to on your next visit.
For those who love cycling, the Loire Valley is very conducive to cycling with scenic cycling trails between villages, towns and chateaus. Villages, towns, chateaus and accommodation around the Valley provide cyclist-friendly facilities.
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