Thick grey clouds hovered over the mountains as we crossed the border from Portugal into Spain. Then the drizzle set in! It was pretty miserable by the time we reached the city of Santiago de Compostela in Spain’s northwestern corner.
It’s only a one night stop for us so we are keen to see as much as we can of this city. We have been drawn here by reading a fellow traveller’s article on visiting this pilgrimage site.
Unlike the more popular cities in Spain, Santiago de Compostela is relatively devoid traditional holidaymakers and tourists. No huge crowds here. Instead, it is the final destination for pilgrims as they complete the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James), a Catholic pilgrimage route dating back to the 9th century leading to what is believed to be the tomb of St James, the apostle.
We have booked to stay in a little boutique hotel in the Old Town, the best place to capture the mood of pilgrims as they enter the Cathedral of St James precinct. The drizzle has stopped so we don’t waste time. We set off to follow the “scallop shells”, the iconic symbol of the Camino de Santiago which lead us through the town to the Cathedral which dominates the town in the grey weather.
The atmosphere, however, is anything but gloomy as we get closer. We admire the beautiful squares that surround the Cathedral looking up to see visitors exploring the rooftop and spires, and pause to watch processions of pilgrims who have walked the Camino follow the cobbled pathway to the main square.
We are moved by the emotions of joy and elation on faces of the tired and bedraggled pilgrims as they are bagpiped by a trio of buskers through the final tunnel. Many have walked the Camino in search of their own spiritual enlightenment. I still get goosebumps and tingles down my spine whenever I recall the scene.
We cast our minds back to the two brave women in their 60’s we met in Porto a few days earlier who were making their way here following the Camino Portegese. This is what they have to look forward to.
The weather conditions make the Cathedral look foreboding but a visit inside proves otherwise. We follow visitors and pilgrims alike to the underground tomb of St James, then to the high altar where the figure of St James sits welcoming pilgrims to touch his cape as a blessing. We quietly explore the naves and altars of this magnificent building while a Mass is underway for pilgrims. Many have completed the full Camino, walking nearly 800km from France following trails marked with the tell-tale scallop shells and yellow arrows through the French and Spanish countryside with overnight stays in modest accommodations of lodges and monasteries.
We have stood in front of, and admired many cathedrals during our travels. Standing in front of this Cathedral, as spectators to pilgrims completing their individual Caminos, we feel we have missed out on something special.
There are a number of Camino routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. For those wishing to complete a shorter walk or who are time poor, shorter routes provide an alternative to the full Camino. All lead to the Cathedral of St James. The Camino is now very popular with those who are looking for the more active holiday. The trails are now full of both genuine pilgrims and tourists. We might be a little late for the more genuine experience, where the trails are less crowded but plans are in the making to join the over 200,000 people who now complete the Camino each year. Watch this space or join us!
Footnote: There is more to Santiago de Compostela than being just a pilgrimage site. A UNESCO World Heritage and university town the city has its own rich culture in entertainment and art. Wandering the streets of this medieval city is a history lesson in itself. And, the city is a gateway to the Galacia region which has its own language and culture. A truly unique Spanish experience for the traveller who wishes to see more of Spain.
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