We left the beautiful lakeside of Montreux behind, driving along roads surrounded by terraced vineyards, apricot and apple orchards. The scenery changed as we sailed along. Beautiful small villages and countryside carpeted with wildflowers framed by steep mountains led us to Zermatt, one of Switzerland’s most magical towns.
Tasch
The beauty of visiting Zermatt is that it’s pedestrian-only, making it very easy to navigate. In fact, being car-free makes the town even more idyllic.
If you’re arriving by car, the best place to park is in the town of Tasch, five kilometres from Zermatt. We parked at the Matterhorn Terminal Tasch, from where we could take the 12-minute scenic train ride to the centre of Zermatt on the Matterhorn Gotthard Railway.
Tasch is the gateway to Zermatt and the Matterhorn mountain range. The small village offers budget-friendly accommodation and access to other major landmarks.
Zermatt
Arriving in Zermatt by train, you’ll literally step directly onto the main street, which was always bustling with vacationers during our stay. With a wide variety of activities available year-round in this alpine town, it’s no surprise! Families, couples, and people of all ages stroll along the streets in their hiking or ski gear.
The main street, Bahnhofstrasse, is the hub of Zermatt, lined with bars, restaurants, shops, souvenir shops, fast-food outlets, and bakeries. It’s a delight to walk along.
There are plenty of other streets intersecting the Bahnhofstrasse to explore, as well as on the other side of the river, the Matter Vispa, which runs through the town.
Beautiful wooden alpine chalets, flower boxes filled with geraniums and peonies, cascading over their balconies, line the valley and the hillsides below the jagged mountains, providing a fairy-tale setting. But the main highlight is undoubtedly the majestic Matterhorn, towering over the town. It’s described as probably the world’s most famous mountain. The iconic shape has long been associated with the Swiss chocolate, Toblerone.
Things to do in Zermatt
Gaze at the Matterhorn
Staying in Zermatt means you don’t have to go far to capture the amazing view of the Matterhorn. Sometimes it will stand crystal clear in front of you, and at other times, it will loom eerily with clouds swirling around it. Either way, you’ll marvel at the ever-changing perspectives.
Visit the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
One of the best ways to experience the amazing alpine scenery in Zermatt is to use the cable car system from the centre of Zermatt to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, the highest cable car station in Europe.
Most tour groups will visit Jungfraujoch and/or Top of Europe as part of their itinerary. Our research found that Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is higher than Jungfraujoch and significantly less busy. We were fortunate to have a very clear day, and the views were breathtaking.
With several changeover stops on the cable car route, where you can step out to explore, our day excursion to the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise on Klein Matterhorn was indeed memorable.
First stop – Furi
The first stage of the cable car system took us to the small settlement of Furi. It’s only a short distance uphill from Zermatt, but it offers a good view of the Zermatt township in the valley below.
We strolled around the village of pretty chalets, taking in the vista before returning to take the cable system further uphill.
Second stop – Schwarzsee
The next cable car ride to Schwarzsee is slightly longer, and it’s worth getting off to walk down to the lake and take a photo at the Zermatt sign.
The weather conditions can change rapidly as you ascend. Heavy mist descended upon us when we disembarked, swirling mysteriously around us. Then, almost as soon as it arrived, it was gone again, revealing breathtaking views of the Matterhorn and the crystal clear lake.
Pop your head into the small chapel on the edge of the lake. Maria zum Schnee (Our Lady of the Snows) chapel breeds the serenity of Schwarzee.
Third stop – Trockener Steg
The cable car station at Trockener Steg is considerably larger than the previous two stations. It’s definitely worth exploring the station and going up to the large outdoor balcony for one of the most spectacular views of the Matterhorn.
While you’re at the station, drop by the Ice Info Cube to learn about the cable car system and the mountaineers who conquered the Matterhorn’s summit.
And at nearly 3,000 metres above sea level, the ski slopes here beckon in the winter, and the hiking trails in the summer months.
Fourth and last stop – Matterhorn Glacier Paradise
A longer, larger cable car takes you on a 30-minute trip to the Glacier Paradise. The cable car’s large windows provide breathtaking views of the mountains with plenty of photo opportunities as you slowly ascend to 4900 metres. We were fortunate to share it with just three others and freely move about the car.
The Viewing Platform
When you disembark the cable car, it’s easy to walk straight to the snow. We recommend, however, that you make a beeline for the viewing platform and be blown away by the expansive views.
On a clear day, you’ll see mountain views across Switzerland, to France and Italy. Then, there’s seeing the Matterhorn. You’ll see it from a new angle and barely recognise it!
Hike to Breithorn
Looking for a real mountain experience? You can climb to the summit of Breithorn. The peak is among the highest in the area and is one of the easiest summits to reach. From Glacier Paradise, it’s a 6km hike with a guide.
Hit the ski slopes
Open 365 days of the year, the ski slopes on Klein Matterhorn are the highest in the Alps and a real drawcard. Imagine skiing right in the middle of summer! When we visited in early August, we found the slopes not overcrowded, but there were plenty of skiers and snowboarders enjoying the experience.
Visit Glacier Ice Palace
Tucked 15 metres underground, a visit to the Glacier Palace to experience the fairytale ice carvings spread around a maze of passages is a must. There’s even an ice slide you can try out. Remember to dress warmly for the ice-cold conditions.
Discover Gornergrat
The benefit of purchasing Peak to Peak tickets is being able to visit Gornergrat as well. At Gornergrat, there’s the incredible Gorner Glacier, a vista of 28 4,000-metre peaks, and, yes, more views of the Matterhorn.
From the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, you can take the series of cable cars back to Furi. From Furi, take the Riffelberg Express cable car to Riffelberg, then catch the cog train up to Gornergrat. For the return journey, take the Gornergrat Railway directly back to the heart of Zermatt.
With the Peak to Peak ticket, you can complete the visits in reverse by visiting Gornergrat first before going to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. The advice at the ticket office was to visit Gornergrat in the afternoon to enjoy the experience after most of the tourists have left.
Watch the Goat Parade
If you happen to be visiting during the summer months, as we did, keep an eye out for the goat parade. It is more likely, however, that you will hear them before you see them.
For seven weeks, normally starting at the end of June, a herd of around 70 blackneck goats pass down the Bahnhofstrasse in the morning and evening. It’s quite a sight to see the street lined with people watching these unique black-and-white goats pass by.
Take a hike around Zermatt
In the summer months, Zermatt becomes a hiker’s paradise. Many lovely walking paths around Zermatt take you up into the mountains or, if you prefer, just around the lower area and hamlets.
We spent a quiet day walking some of the paths to Furi and beyond and barely saw anyone. The paths are well signposted with plenty of options to divert and reconnect to the main paths.
Most enjoyable was the scenic high route loop to the hamlet of Zmutt. It passes through beautiful meadows, past smaller hamlets and lovely old wooden houses and with views of the mountains to accompany you.
We also followed a path to the Furi Hangebrücke. It’s easily reached from Furi hamlet by following a well-marked path and then a boardwalk to a 100-metre-long suspension bridge over the Gorner Gorge and its gushing water below.
Wander around Zermatt township
After a day of hiking in the mountains, there’s nothing better than taking a stroll through the heart of Zermatt and its beautiful stone-and-wood houses. Be sure to cross the bridges over the Vispa River to see both sides of the town.
Visit the Mountaineers’ Cemetery
The Mountaineers’ Cemetery is a reminder that the mountains are unforgiving and accidents have occurred, claiming the lives of mountaineers from all over the world attempting to scale the mountain peaks around Zermatt.
Where we stayed
Our apartment in the Chalet Alpine Lodge was conveniently located on the main street, Bahnhofstrasse, in the heart of Zermatt. The apartment was clean and comfortable with a generous balcony overlooking the street. The kitchen/living room window gave us a peek at the Matterhorn.
We enjoyed sitting on our balcony in the early evening, watching the activity below, including the goat parade.
Where we dined
We enjoyed a combination of eating in and dining out during our stay. With bakeries, eateries and supermarkets on our doorstep, we gathered a variety of tidbits to enjoy on our balcony.
Enjoy traditional Swiss fare
A must-do during your stay in Zermatt is to dine at Whymper Stube. Located in the centre of town, the restaurant is named after British mountaineer and author Edward Whymper, the first person to climb the Matterhorn in 1865. The mountaineer was known to frequently dine at the restaurant, which was one of the first in Zermatt.
You’ll be served traditional Swiss cuisine and regional beverages, enhanced by rustic Swiss decor.
Something you should know
Two months before our stay, Zermatt was affected by heavy rain, devastating flooding and landslides. We considered changing our plans, closely monitored news reports, and continued our road trip.
When we arrived, we were surprised. The authorities and townsfolk had worked hard to restore Zermatt to a pristine condition for summer visitors. There was no sign of the catastrophe that had struck.
In case you’re interested
Our travels have taken us to other towns and cities in Switzerland, which we believe are worth visiting. Take a look at our recommendations by clicking on the links below.
- Basel, a Swiss treasure you must visit
- You must include fascinating Zurich on your Swiss itinerary
- Lucerne is a beautiful Swiss town you must visit
- Interlaken is one of Switzerland’s top destinations
- Why you should visit Bern, Switzerland’s charming capital
- You’ll love Montreux, Switzerland’s hidden gem
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