Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: driving holidays (Page 1 of 3)

Beachside at Kingscliff, New South Wales
Beachside at Kingscliff

The best places to stop on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales

23/04/2023 / / 1 Comment

Our love of leisurely road trips allowed us to break the 10-11 hour drive from southeast Queensland to the Blue Mountains with some stops and a couple of overnight stays. Below are our suggestions for places to stop on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales.

Route options

With several route options available, our road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales was to be on the inland route with two overnight stays. The first was in the inland Scenic Rim town of Stanthorpe, and the second was in Australia’s country music capital, Tamworth.

Our plans rapidly changed when an oil tanker rollover blocked the highway. After sitting in a traffic jam for several hours, a quick decision was made to re-route and take the coastal road.

Phone calls were made on the go to cancel and make new accommodation bookings. We were glad to have taken the “Free cancellation” option on our original bookings

More traffic delays and we finally arrived at our overnight destination seven hours after leaving home. The drive would usually take two hours!

Hint: Travelling teaches you to be flexible and agile and enjoy the experience, even if it’s not what you expected.

The best places to stop on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales

An overnight stay in Kingscliff

Only a couple of hours of relaxed driving from Brisbane and just over the Queensland border is the coastal town of Kingscliff.

Kingscliff is not just a place to stop over on the way south, it’s a beautiful holiday destination in its own right and perfect for short or long stayovers. We have enjoyed short stay breaks in the laidback atmosphere that comes from one street town.

Kingscliff
Pretty parklands across from Kingscliff’s main street

The “welcome drinks” at Peppers Salt Resort were extremely welcome and within moments of check-in, we had put the day behind us, were relaxed and ready to enjoy the evening.

A short stroll to the adjoining Salt Village and we are spoilt for choice by the dining options: Asian, Mexican, Italian, or simple fish and chips. For those staying for a few days, treat yourself to the spa or shop in the boutiques. Then, of course, there’s the beach!

Beachside at Kingscliff, New South Wales
Beachside at Kingscliff

Our misfortunes of the day changed to a fortune of a relaxed evening at the resort.

Hint: When you leave Kingscliff, drive south along the scenic coast road through Cabarita Beach, a small beachside village.

Stretching out legs at Nambucca Heads

The highway has dramatically improved. over the years. There is no longer the need to drive through small towns at limited speeds. Now you can pick and choose which towns you wish to detour into or turn on cruise control and keep driving.

We choose to stop at the scenic Nambucca Heads for lunch. We discover Gordon Park on the river. It’s a peaceful spot to stretch your legs and grab lunch and coffee—a fantastic place to take a break.

Gordons Park, Nambucca Heads. New South Wales, Australia
Tranquil Gordons Park, Nambucca Heads

Overnight stay in Port Macquarie

We arrived in Port Macquarie with fond memories of a stay during another road trip many years ago when we had arrived fresh from New Zealand to make our home in Australia. Arriving in the early afternoon allowed us time to do a little exploring. The best way was on foot.

We began our brisk walk from the town centre along the Coastal Walk. The painted rocks at the breakwall capture our intention. The painted rocks started as an art competition in 1995. and have become a gallery of sorts: tributes to loved ones who have passed away; celebrations of love and; anniversaries amongst others. Our walk is slowed down to a stroll as we stop, read, and admire the artwork.

At Town Beach, the artwork ends and our pace quickens. We aim to walk to the Lighthouse, but time is not on our side and we turn back at Nobby Head after a walk of breathtaking rough and rugged scenery.

Views on the Coastal Walk, Port Macquarie, Australia
Views on the Coastal Walk

After several hours of exploring we are back at our hotel to shower and enjoy a drink at the bar before walking the short distance into the town centre to choose somewhere for dinner. Again, we are spoilt for choice and decide on a simple pizza dinner.

The Blue Mountains

A World Heritage area, Blue Mountains National Park is one of Australia’s icons. You’ll be enchanted by its natural wonders. Explore the endless hiking trails around cliffs, canyons, waterfalls and lush forests of the national park by spending a few days in the area.

Views from the Skyway across the Jamison Valley, Blue Mountains
Views from the Skyway across the Jamison Valley, Blue Mountains

Read our post for more details on the things you can do in the Blue Mountains.

Other places to stop on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales

Of course, depending on how much time you have, there are numerous stops and stays to make on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales. A few suggestions are below. We stayed at a couple on our return journey.

  • Byron Bay
  • Ballina
  • Yamba
  • Coffs Harbour
  • Port Stephens and Nelson Bay
  • The Hunter Valley
Views from Sublime Point, Leura, Blue Mountains
Views from Sublime Point, Leura

Amazing things you absolutely need to do in the Blue Mountains

14/04/2023 / / 0 Comments

The buzz of the city gave way to the leafy and quieter suburbs of Sydney and suddenly we arrived for our visit to the Blue Mountains National Park. Here are some things you absolutely need to do in the Blue Mountains.

Things you absolutely need to do in the Blue Mountains

Leura Valley

The Leura Valley is a great starting point for exploring the Blue Mountains. You’ll be greeted by plenty of nature walks and longer hiking trails providing stunning scenery and the old-world streets around the little village of Leura.

Sublime Point Lookout

One of the first things to do in the Leura Valley is to stretch your legs with a short walk to the Sublime Point Lookout. The lookout provides magnificent views across the Jamison Valley and beyond at an angle that directly contrasts the views you’ll come across from the other lookout points in the area.

Views from Sublime Point, Leura, Blue Mountains
Views from Sublime Point, Leura

For us, it was the perfect introduction to the grandeur of the National Park and how much we had to look forward to during our stay. Hint: Try to time your visit to watch the sunset.

Leura Mall and Village

One of the highlights of Leura is the charming village. It’s a favourite for both day-trippers and long-stay visitors. Offering plenty of cafes and finer dining options and surrounded by heritage buildings a whole day can be spent browsing Leura’s pretty tree-lined main street alone. Pick up a good read at the Megalong Bookstore for a browse, collect an antique or shop in one of the boutiques. If you’re a tea lover, drop into the quirky Teapot Museum. For chocolate lovers, don’t leave Leura without dropping into Josophan’s Chocolates.

Wander the backstreets of Leura

After strolling along the Mall and village, keep walking and you’ll find yourself in streets lined with quaint cottages. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

Bush walks from Leura

The Leura Cascades trail is extremely picturesque. Categorised as a relatively easy and short walk, it runs alongside Leura Falls Creek through the rainforest ending at a lookout over the Jamison Valley. The walk’s shortness in length is deceptive because it provides some of the best views you’ll find of the Blue Mountains. The walk will be accompanied by the soothing sound of the waterfalls and find you lingering over the fabulous views. Be prepared, the walk may take longer than you anticipate.

Katoomba

Katoomba township has a reputation for being the gateway to the Blue Mountains and indeed, provides easy access to most of the National Park’s hiking trails and main attractions.

The town’s art deco buildings and bohemian feel provide the perfect backdrop for visitors looking for somewhere to base themselves and discover the things you absolutely need to do in the Blue Mountains.

Echo Point

Echo Point is the main lookout over the Blue Mountains and serves as the access point to many of the walks. Drive there or take the clifftop walk to reach the lookout. Whichever way, you’ll be awestruck b the vast landscape and views of the Three Sisters (see below) from the secure cliff edge. Hint: Arrive early in the morning before the tour buses arrive. You’ll have the lookout to yourself so you can appreciate the stunning views and the atmosphere without the crowds.

The Three Sisters

An iconic landmark in the Blue Mountains is The Three Sisters (Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo) rock formation.

The Three Sisters, Blue Mountains, Australia
The Three Sisters from Echo Point

Echo Point provides stunning views of the iconic Three Sisters. However, there is nothing better than having a look up close. You can access the Three Sisters Walk from Echo Point which provides plenty of additional lookouts with amazing views along the way. By walking down the Giant Stairway (998 steps) and across the Honeymoon Bridge to the first Sister, you can get even closer.

Scenic World

A visit to Scenic World is a fun thing to do. A Discovery Pass allows you to:

Sky Train, Blue Mountains
Riding the Sky Train, the steepest railway track in the world.
  • ride the steepest railway journey in the world. The 310-metre journey drops down through a cliffside tunnel to arrive in the Jamison Valley (stop by to view the original railway carriage which is displayed at the arrival area)
  • explore the valley floor along the boardwalks surrounded by rainforest flora and fauna along the Scenic Walkway
  • ride the Scenic Cableway, the steepest cableway in the Southern Hemisphere, which takes you to the valley floor at a much more leisurely pace than the railway, and
  • glide across the valley on the Scenic Skyway, an enclosed cable car spanning two clifftops. The ride provides breathtaking views of Katoomba Falls, the Three Sisters, Mt Solitary and Jamison Valley.
Views from the Skyway across the Jamison Valley, Blue Mountains. One of the amazing things you absolutely need to do in the Blue Mountains.
Views from the Skyway across the Jamison Valley, Blue Mountains
Views from the Skyway down to the waterfalls of the Blue Mountains
Views from above of one the waterfalls in the Blue Mountains

Hydro Majestic Hotel, Medlow Bath

Whether you intend to stay or not, dropping into the Hydro Majestic is a must if you’re visiting the Blue Mountains for the first time.

The Hydro sits on the clifftop offering breathtaking views over the Megalong Valley. The heritage-listed hotel was built in 1904 and became popular as a health retreat before it declined to rack and ruin for many decades.

Hydro Majestic Hotel, Medlow Bath, Blue Mountains
The entrance foyer of the Hydro Majestic Hotel leads to the dining room overlooking the Blue Mountains

A restoration project in the 1990s brought the hotel, casino, and other buildings on the site back to their former glory while maintaining the grandeur of the past. As you enter the foyer you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped back in time.

The hotel offers one of the largest spas in the southern hemisphere.

Evans Lookout at Blackheath

The charming town of Blackheath is known in the region for its rhododendron gardens. It’s a little off the track compared to Leura and Katoomba but in addition to the gardens the town offers many breathtaking views and bush walks.

The path through the lush rainforest on Evan's Point track, Blue Mountains
The path through the lush rainforest on Evan’s Point track,

We spent a morning walking along the well-marked trail along the clifftop ending at Evans Lookout. The Lookout offers brilliant views of the Grose Valley. There is also the option to continue following the Grand Canyon Walk leading through the rainforest towards the valley floor.

The Grose Valley, Blue Mountains
The Grose Valley, Blue Mountains

Where we stayed

We decided to treat ourselves by staying at the luxurious Fairmont Resort and Spa Blue Mountains located on the outskirts of Leura’s township.

The boutique hotel offers some magnificent views over the Jamison Valley and beyond.

Views from the entrance foyer of the Fairmont, Blue Mountains, Australia
Views from the entrance foyer of the Fairmont

One of the most sought areas for breakfast and dining in the hotel is Embers Restaurant which is accessed by a stairway from the foyer. The large windows offer uninterrupted vistas of the valley. The blue hues of the mountains were extremely prominent and looked spectacular during sunrise and sunset.

Located adjacent to the golf club and with family-friendly facilities. Spend some downtime in the billiards or reading room, take a look at the exhibits in the corridors, enjoy the basketball courts or a stroll in the gardens. We found the hotel to be the perfect place to stay in the Blue Mountains.

When is the best time to visit

Anytime is a good time to visit the Blue Mountains. However, we think the best time of the year to visit the Blue Mountains is in the autumn. The air is more relaxed than in the searing heat of summer and still warm enough to enjoy the walks and hiking trails scattered throughout the National Park. And the mountains look spectacular!

How we got there

Our love for road trips allowed us to drive from Brisbane in the sunshine state of Queensland where we live to New South Wales. Read about some of the beautiful places we stopped at on the way here.

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

06/01/2023 / / 2 Comments

Planning on visiting Malaga or Seville? Read on to find out why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

Southern Spain is speckled with pueblo blancos (white towns). Each has its own character and it’s hard not to get caught up visiting all of them. If you’re short on time, Ronda is the one town to visit.

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

We chose Ronda as our base for several days because of its point of difference from the other white villages.

Steeped in history, the city sits on two sides of a deep gorge connected by a fantastic bridge—the bridge, Puento Nuevo (new bridge) was built in 1793.

Our apartment was located in Plaza Espana next to Puento Nuevo, with an added “wow” factor. Our expansive patio looked out over the magnificent Sierra de las Nieves! The Tourist Office around the corner from our apartment armed us with a map and options on how to spend our time in the town.

Views to the Sierra de las Nieves from Ronda
Views of the Sierra de las Nieves from our apartment patio

We were fortunate to arrive on a Saturday when a free flamenco concert was being held in Ronda’s Old Town.

A summer evening in Ronda

The views from both sides of the bridge are dramatic, and it is the first place to stop to soak in the scenery before you explore the old town.

In the Old Town, we followed the sound of music down some cobblestone alleys to appear at an open-air area where the rehearsal was in progress. Moving on, we stopped in a pretty square to visit the cathedral, Santa Maria de la Mayor. An added pleasure was watching a wedding party emerge.

The plaza offers several restaurants if you’d like to eat in the quiet precinct. We opted for the low-key garden restaurant to try a few of the local dishes on offer. The food portions are large and delicious.

Back at the concert venue, we found the seats were filling up fast. Instead of sitting down with the audience, we decided to sit on the ledge above to watch people and observe. By 10:00 pm, the arena was full. Concertgoers came dressed for the occasion and the atmosphere was jovial as the concert commenced.

We left after an hour, wishing we understood the language better so we could have enjoyed the music, singing and dancing as much as the locals did.

The Cathedral was spectacularly lit up as we passed by on the way back to our apartment. At 11:30 pm. townsfolk were still out and about in droves, and the town was buzzing. Just one of the benefits of visiting in the summer months.

Things to do in incredible Ronda

Enjoy the dramatic views from Mirador Aldehuela

Mirador Aldehuela is on the Old Town side of Puento Nuevo and directly opposite Plaza Espana. We recommend that it’s one of the first things you do. The dramatic views down to the Guadelevin River flowing at the bottom of the gorge surrounded by the cliff formations are jaw-dropping.

Views of the gorge, Ronda, Spain
Views of the gorge from Mirador Aldehuela

Take in the evening views of Puento Nuevo

For another perspective of Puento Nuevo, stroll along Mirador de Aves via the pathway from Plaza Espana in the evening.

It’s a great place to linger as the sun goes down. As darkness falls and the lights around the gorge turn on, highlighting the bridge. The bridge looked spectacular, and the gorge seemed rather eery.

Puento Nuevo, Ronda at night
Puento Nuevo, Ronda at night

Take a hike in the El Tajo Gorge

Morning dawned with hot air balloons hovering over our balcony. They skimmed across the sky to hover above the gorge and valley. The views must be unique from above.

The Tourist Office recommended hiking the Molinos del Tajo route, which leads down from the Old Town into the El Tajo Gorge. This would be the best way to experience the town’s distinctive qualities. We took their recommendation and were not disappointed.

Views of Ronda's Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge
Views of Ronda’s Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge

The main path takes you to the waterfall just below the bridge with some viewpoints providing breathtaking views of the bridge. You can then walk some of the quieter paths leading further downhill to capture bridge views from different angles before circumnavigating to the other side of town towards the old Roman bridge and visiting the Arab Baths. We returned to the township via Jardines de Cuenca, and the spectacular viewpoints spread at intervals across the gardens before emerging in Plaza Espana from the other end of the Puento Nuevo.

The early morning is the perfect time to do the two-hour walk, especially if you are visiting in summer. The temperature is cool, and, at this time of the day, there are not many people on the trails. It provides a wonderful opportunity to savour the views from the lookouts and take unobstructed photos.

Step inside the Arab Baths and walk over the Roman Bridge

If you follow the walking route around to the eastern side of the town, you’ll end up at the Arab Baths.

Relatively intact, the baths provide a peek into the Moorish heritage of the town. This part of town was originally the main entrance into Ronda, and the baths sat just outside the city walls and next to the Mosque. Locals and visitors would stop to cleanse their bodies at the baths before going to the Mosque

A little further around the corner, you’ll find more another remnant of old Ronda with the Roman Bridge at the original entrance to Ronda.

The Roman Bridge, Ronda, Spain
A couple look over the Arab bath site from the old Roman Bridge

Visit the Plaza de Toros

One of the oldest in Spain, Ronda’s bullring stands as a centrepiece as you enter the Old Town. Two statues honouring two sons of the town stand at the entrance. Statues honouring two of the town’s famous matadors, a father (Antonio Ordonez) and son (Cayetano Ordonez) stand proudly at the entrance. With bullfighting falling out of favour in recent times, the bullring serves mainly as a museum these days. Bullfighting is, however, embedded in the culture of the town and once a year in September, the Plaza de Toros truly comes to life when the Feria de Pedro Romero is held along with several others in southern Spain.

The bullring, Plaza de Toros, Ronda, Spain
Ronda’s bullring, Plaza de Toros

Mirador de Ronda – scenic lookout of the gorge and mountains

A few minutes’ stroll from Plaza Espana, and through the flower gardens is another lookout to the amazing mountain ranges and the gorge. For spectacular sunset views, take a seat on the steps of the rotunda from where you can watch one of the world’s best sunsets.

Visit Setenil de las Bodegas

The small white village of Setenil de las Bodegas is a twenty-minute drive from Ronda and worth a visit whether you are staying in Ronda or just hopping from one white town to another on your way through southern Spain.

Why? Setenil is not just another white village and is unique in its own right for the town’s hilltop castle, which was once an Arab fortress. Even more, it is famous because of the village houses built into the rock and cliffside.

Setenil de las Bodegas
Dwellings built into the cliff face in Setenil de las Bodegas

The village is very popular for its culinary fare. The original houses built into the cliff are now mostly tavernas or restaurants serving the chorizo sausages that the village is famous for. We arrived in the village for a late afternoon visit to find the village still brimming with tourists.

Once you’ve had a wander around the area below, follow the steps up to a small lookout to take a seat and survey the pueblo from above. You’ll find it a great vantage point to view the castle/fortress.

Setenil de las Bodegas lookout, Ronda, Spain
Views of the castle and township from the lookout

Shopping on Carrera Espinel

Carerra Espinel is a one-kilometre pedestrian street with shopping for all budgets. However, Carrera Espinel is worth a walk down for its festive spirit. Part of the way along veer into the pretty Plaza del Socorro, where you’ll find a few dining options and the Inglesia del Sirocco. It’s a pretty square in an incredible town!

Plaza del Socorro, Ronda, Spain
Plaza del Socorro, Ronda, Spain

Our conclusion

Steeped in history and jaw-dropping scenery, Ronda was true to all that we had read about the town and the amazing photography we had seen when researching places to visit in southern Spain. Ronda did not disappoint!

You simply should not leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda!

One more thing

Looking for more pueblo blancos to visit. Click on the link below to read more.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

22/10/2022 / / 3 Comments

When researching where to visit in southern Spain, places like Seville, Malaga and Granada frequently arose. We have found another area to include on your itinerary. See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

The white villages (pueblos blancos) are easily visited from Seville, Cadiz or Malaga on a day visit. The best way to appreciate them and their atmosphere (each varies) is to stay in one. We based ourselves in Ronda and stopped at a few villages on the way there. Here are some that stood out for us.

Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez de la Frontera is the largest of the white villages/towns and is famous for two things:

  • the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art and breeding and training horses; and
  • producing some of the best sherry in the world.

Vineyards accompanied us on the road and on reaching the Jerez, we found it brimming with bodegas (cellars). Producers here make sherry from a particular grape variety (Palamino) which grows in the chalky soil of this part of Spain. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you are looking for tasting cellars. Look out for the area’s most famous brand, Tio Pepe which stands prominently on the hillside as you drive into the town.

We weren’t in Jerez to taste the sherry or check out the equestrian centre. We wanted to visit the old town. Vehicular access is prohibited so we parked outside the zone, an extra dimension to our visit. Derelict houses lined the alleys and streets as we walked towards what we hoped was the central plaza. What the city may have to offer a visitor was questionable!

The backstreets of Jerez de la Frontera
The backstreets of Jerez de la Frontera

Ten minutes of winding through the alleys brought us to a quiet main road which we followed a short way uphill. Suddenly out of nowhere, Plaza de la Asuncion appeared. A small but charming old square with a significant history. A 15th-century Gothic Mudejar-style church, the Church of San Dionisio is on one side, the former town hall dating back to the 16th century, on another. In the middle, you’ll find the Monumento a la Asuncion.

A short walk along the lane took us to one of the most important squares in Jerez de la Frontera, Plaza del Arenal. It’s the heart of the old town and was once the scene of fights and duels in the 16th century. These days, it’s a beautiful open space hosting statues of renowned identities surrounded by beautiful old buildings. The colourful carousel in the corner adds to its charm and vibrancy.

Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez de la Frontera

We came across the striking Jerez Cathedral. It’s a beautiful building dating back to the 17th century combining Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Classical styles towering over the street as we returned to the car.

Jerez Cathedral, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
Jerez Cathedral

Arcos de la Frontera

Arcos de la Frontera is one of the lesser-visited white towns. Set on a hilltop, we detoured slightly north from Cadiz to Ronda to explore this hilltop town.

Parking in Plaza del Cabildo is limited and narrow alleyways to navigate on the hill. We decided to find a car park in the town area below (Hint: bring good walking shoes to make your way uphill on the cobbled pathway). The views of the white town as we walked towards more than made up for taking the steep incline on a hot summer morning.

Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera, Spain
Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Plaza del Cabildo

The main street, Calle Cuesta Belen took us to our first stop, Plaza del Cabildo. Beautiful buildings surround this main square on three sides (Basilica de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, Castillo Ducal, the town hall and the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera, a hotel). The Mirador del Cono is the highlight of the Plaza. It serves as a cliffside balcony to look out over the Rio Guadalete.

Explore the narrow alleyways

One of the highlights of our visit to Arcos de la Frontera was getting lost in the little alleys around the town. The best place to start is to go back to the Cuesta Belen entrance of the Plaza and enter through the archway on the left just before the Parador. You’ll find yourself in the maze of alleyways lined with whitewashed houses.

The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain
The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Things to look out for:

  • Inglesia de San Pedro – the church and its Baroque bell tower are just as impressive as the Basilica in Plaza del Cabildo.
  • Palacio del Mayorazgo – when you’ve finished gazing at the Iglesia de San Pedro, turn around. This narrow building dates back to the 17th century. It is now home to a cultural centre. Pop in to admire the building’s interior and the exhibitions.
  • Find and stroll along Calle Cuna and Calle Maldonaldo. Both are lined with Palacios and worthy of finding your way to.
  • Another street to find is Calle Nueva lined. It’s lined with colourful pots against the whitewashed buildings.
  • Visit the Convento de la Mercerdarias. The convent was closed during our visit, however, all the information we read before our visit recommended a visit. The convent dates back to 1642 and is a classic example of a cloistered convent.
  • Follow the path from Calle Nueva onwards to Mirador Abades. If you thought the views from the mirador in Plaza Cabildo were spectacular, we classified Mirador Abades as the perfect finale for our visit. Go ahead and take a look for yourselves.
Expansive views from the Mirador Abades, Arcos de la Frontera
Expansive views from the Mirador Abades

Don’t forget to pop your head into the novelty stores and tapas bars.

Zahara de la Sierra

Zahara de la Sierra is an hour’s drive from Arcos de la Frontera. We passed a few more Pueblo Blancos on the way. Zahara de la Sierra’s Moorish castle is perched high up on the hill coming into view from afar

Zahara de la Sierra, Spain
Driving towards Zahara de la Sierra

Again, we found it best to use the car park at the bottom of the hill. It was also the best way to savour the beauty of the laneways and Moorish houses on the way to Plaza Mayor, the village’s main square. The steep streets were eerily quiet and not a soul was to be seen on the way up.

On reaching Plaza Mayor we realised why the streets had been so quiet. The pretty pink church, Church of Santa Maria de la Mesa was hidden behind a marquee set up to cover the square and pretty stone fountain. Calle Ronda was barricaded for a bull run. The town’s inhabitants were either lining the outside of barriers or inside for the release of the bull.

Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra
Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra

While everyone was preoccupied preparing for the bull run we took advantage of the stunning views of the picturesque Sierra de Monte surrounding the aqua-blue lake, Playa de Zahara de la Sahara below. The lake is a popular water sports destination as the mountains are for hiking.

Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain
Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain

A little time was spent at the barricades absorbing the atmosphere before we realised that this was not something we would enjoy. We made our way downhill for lunch before crowds arrived after the spectacle. An ambulance siren accompanies our journey down.

Olvera

We now know where all the Spanish olive oil comes from! Driving to Olvera you’ll see olive groves everywhere. Fires over the past summers have destroyed some hillside groves. In some areas, new trees have been planted and some of the surviving old trees are starting to resprout. We are once again treated to spectacular views driving towards the township. Another castle perched above us on the hill. Just below it, a church.

Roadside views of the church and castle atop the hill in Olvera, Spain
Roadside views of the church and castle atop the hill in Olvera, Spain

Olvera is a ghost town as we walk uphill. Apart from the restaurants, everything else is closed for the siesta. Walking uphill is beginning to become a habit but we can enjoy the scenic main street without crowds.

The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain
The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain

Arriving in the church square, apart from a couple of people sitting under the shade of a tree, we have it to ourselves. A Polish family joined us a short while later. Like us, they are amazed that there is no one else around.

The square is the best place to see the castle while the lookouts around the church provide sweeping views over the township below and the surrounding countryside. It was time well spent stopping and walking up the hot afternoon sun.

Ronda – the most stunning of the white villages

Onwards to incredible Ronda. We decided to base ourselves in the most popular white villages for several nights to find out why it’s classified as one of the most beautiful.

Are you interested to learn what we found? Click on the link and take a look at our review on why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

Scenic Duoro Valley

The best way to see more of the Duoro Valley

19/09/2022 / / 0 Comments

There are many ways to discover Portugal’s Duoro Valley.  River cruises are always very enticing or, you can complete a day trip by train from the popular city of Porto. However, having spent a few days in this very special part of the world, we think the best way to see more of the Duoro Valley is by car.

Whether you’re a wine lover or not, you’ll find the Duoro Valley’s scenery breathtaking. Kilometres and kilometres of terraced vineyards rise high up into the mountains and small villages are scattered in between.

Peso de Regua

Peso de Regua is a busy city on the banks of the Duoro River and one of the gateways to the vineyards of the Valley. Our research determined that the best place to access the short river cruise was Regua. It was important to note though that the Duoro Valley is still relatively quiet after the pandemic and few river cruise operators were functioning while we were there. The one we hoped to book with required four passengers to make the cruise viable and we were the only two at the assigned departure time so missed the opportunity.

Not being able to cruise the river gave us an unexpected chance to see the Valley by road. In hindsight, we are so glad that fate intervened.

Regua
Scenes of the Valley and the Douro River from Regua

Only one large river cruise boat was in Port on the day we visited Regua. Although we got the feeling the town was used to catering for more in better times. Passengers boarded buses for afternoon tours around the Valley as we enjoyed the scenery from the dockside. Unfortunately, buses cannot access the roads that wind amongst the terraces. It’s a shame they will miss the best parts and views that can only be seen on these roads.

Pinhao

The drive from Peso de Regua to Pinhao, or vice versa, is rated as one of the most scenic drives in the world. And it lived up to expectations. If you’re fortunate, you may have an opportunity to watch a barge or riverboat work its way through the lock.

There was however a little traffic jam along the riverfront road. We had caught up with the Viking River Cruise tour buses and they were blocking the road as they manoeuvred their way out of town. Again, captivating scenery greeted us

Once you get to Pinhao, you’ll find it’s a sleepy town. In contrast to Pesa de Regua, Pinhao is a sleepy little town. However, you’ll find the scenery captivating.

Pinhao, Duoro Valley
Looking down the Douro River from Pinhao Railway Station

Another way to travel from Peso de Regua to Pinhao is by train. Many tourists also take the train journey from Porto on a day trip. Both journeys arrive a Pinhao’s train station which is a little gem to look at.

Take a break away from the breathtaking scenery to have a look at the blue tiles frontage and walk through the inside to have the stories of the region told by the painted blue tiles on the station platform.

Lamego

More terraces covered in grapevines accompanied us on the road to the small town of Lamego. It’s a slow 20-minute drive away from Pesa de Regua however, you will find that it’s like being in a different world. Small churches and manicured green parks in the middle of town where residents gathered gave this small town an air of gentrification.

Vila Real

We stumbled upon the town of Vila Real while looking for suitable accommodation. The sole representative at the town’s tourist office, who only spoke German and Spanish, conveyed to us in no uncertain terms that there was absolutely nothing to see in Vila Real!

We beg to differ. Agreed. You can visit the sights, which are primarily churches over an hour. A walk around the town area doesn’t take very long at all., an hour at a stroll. The old town area, however, has a vibe that we didn’t find in the other Duoro towns.

Pop into the market in the morning and that’s where you’ll find the locals. A wonderful atmosphere, stall owners calling out their specials to potential customers, men gathered in groups discussing whatever it is they discuss, and similarly, women gathered around vegetable stalls or sitting down for a gossip over coffee.

Dining options reflected a very local menu and included wines from the area in a relaxed environment.

One of the highlights of staying in Vila Real

If your stay happens to coincide with a Saturday evening in July and August, you’ll be in for a special treat. Every Saturday at 10:00 pm, you’ll find live entertainment in the main square. During our stay, we were treated to a brass band who were touring the Duroro from a small island in the Azores that entertained the township for 90 minutes or more.

Vila Real at night
Saturday night concert in the square

Palais Mateus

Mateus Palais, Vila Real, Douro Valley
The elegant entrance to Palais Mateus

One of Portugal’s well know wines is Mateus. Busloads of tourists come to visit the beautiful Palais and gardens from Pesa de Regua, Pinhao and further afield. The Palais is located less than 5km from Vila Real and allows you to easily go to visit and appreciate the Palais and tranquil grounds with the surrounding vineyard before the busloads of tourists descend.

Mateus Palais, Vila Real
The beautifully manicured gardens of the Mateus Palais
Gardens at Mateus Palais

Wine tasting while in the Duoro Valley

When you’re surrounded by vineyards and wine tasting options it’s hard to decide which is the one for you.

You may prefer to take advantage of the whole experience by staying at one of the vineyards. We decided not to take this option so we could explore more of the Valley. However, should you have the time and prefer to, we’ve found this website provides credible opportunities.

Of course, like us, if you prefer to base yourself in one of the Duoro “towns”, then you can drive yourself between the many cellar doors to wine taste at your leisure.

Our conclusion

The Duoro Valley is one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Breathtaking scenery accompanied us wherever we went in the Valley.

The hidden hills and valleys of the Duoro Valley
Some of the scenery that can only be encountered when travelling by car in the Duoro Valley

We will definitely consider seeing the Valley on a river cruise in the future. However, for a first experience, travelling between the towns and driving in, around and out of the region by road allowed us to see so much scenery that can’t be reached by bus or boat, and take away memories that we had never imagined.

Hoping that we have encouraged you to visit the beautiful Duoro Valley on a road trip. We’re sure you’ll enjoy it as much as we did!

P.S. To help you plan your Duoro road itinerary, take a look at this website which offers some planned routes.

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