Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Author: Smita (Page 11 of 16)

Take a day trip to Kotor, Montenegro

30/01/2019 / / 0 Comments

Visiting Dubrovnik and have a day to spare? Do yourself a favour and take a day trip to Kotor in Montenegro. Or even better, stay for a day or two to savour its unspoilt beauty and explore further afield.

On the advice of our apartment host, we made a day visit on a day when Dubrovnik was due to be overrun with cruise ships. As beautiful and historic as Dubrovnik is, its revival as a tourist destination and a major Mediterranean port sees it become crowded with sightseers clambering to wander around the Old City, walk the city walls or enjoy the beaches especially during the summer months. On some days, up to six cruise liners will offload their passengers into the city!

We picked a “cruise free” day to visit the Old City and took the day trip to Montenegro to enjoy its unspoilt natural beauty, driving along the Adriatic coast and into the Croatian countryside to cross the border.

Croatian border security is tight and often suffers from long queues especially during the European summer months so we left early in the morning to avoid the long queues at border control. We were lucky, waiting for only an hour to pass through.

Once cleared, we drove past busy seaside towns and tourists parks before the road tapered into the Bay of Kotor. What a sight to greet us!

The Bay of Kotor

The Bay of Kotor

The mountain scenery looking towards Kotor was breathtaking and the view of Our Lady of the Rocks, a tiny church sitting serenely in on a small islet in the bay called for the camera to come out. We took the opportunity of stopping at viewpoints as we drove along the road hugging the coastline to capture the unspoilt beauty as we passed through the pretty bayside towns of Risan and Perast.

Our Lady of the Rocks, Bay of Kotor
Our Lady of the Rocks set in the Bay of Kotor

The old city of Kotor which is designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site is slowly becoming a major tourist attraction so if you’re arriving by car, be prepared for the traffic entering the port area and be patient finding a car park. We took the easy option of using the parking area on the waterfront just a short walking distance from the entrance to the old city.

A leisurely walk along the city walls gave us beautiful views below into Stari grad, into the bay and up at the walls climbing the mountainside before we ventured into the maze of streets and alleyways of the old town to meander in and out of squares occasionally stopping to look in little stores and cafes.

The Clock Tower, Main Square, Kotor
The historic Clock Tower in the main square, Kotor
Hoste Apertivi and Bokeria, Kotor
This quiet little square was the perfect spot to enjoy lunch and people watch.

We picked a little cafe (Hoste Apertivo and Bokeria)in a tucked in a quiet corner of a small square for a light lunch before getting ready for the drive back to Dubrovnik. The cafe owner was well versed with the extensive queues at Croatian border controls and suggested we took the opportunity to enjoy a more pleasant drive through Bosnia and Herzegovina for our return journey. He assured us that the border crossing would be less busy. The travel time would be the same and instead of waiting an hour or two at the Montenegro/Croatian border we would have a chance to pass through a different country to see more of the beautiful countryside this part of the world has to offer.

It was indeed a detour we would recommend. The everchanging contours of the land from driving amongst craggy mountain roads to idyllic country lanes alongside springs and rivers was striking, as were the breathtaking views of the Bay of Kotor and beyond.

We did experience a small queue at the border, however, we had wonderful views to enjoy while we waited.

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Our Dubrovnik host had also recommended we visit Budva, another medieval town on the Adriatic coast if we had the time. We decided to spend an unrushed day in Kotor and its surrounds instead and have saved Budva and its Riveria for another visit to this stunning little country.



Treviso, the “little Venice” of Italy

19/01/2019 / / 1 Comment

We are winding our way to Milan in the dying weeks of our holiday. Do we visit Venice on our way?

We have appreciated and enjoyed its uniqueness on a previous visit when it was early summer and already busy with tourists and holidaymakers.

Were either of us keen to go back? The answer is a resounding “no”. It will be more fun to explore unknown territory to see more of what Italy has to offer “off the beaten track”.

We settle on spending a few days in Treviso; a pleasant day’s drive from Pula in Croatia via Trieste. “Nothing to see there but the airport!” advised a kind-hearted colleague when He shared this plan. This immediately prompted a Google Search; a closer look at our trusty Lonely Planet and DK Eyewitness travel books. Everything looked okay and we decided to take the risk.

From Trieste, our mostly reliable GPS (programmed to avoid toll roads) took us to Treviso on the quieter and more scenic route, the food bowl of northern Italy. We leisurely drove kilometre after kilometre along roads surrounded by vineyards and farmland trying to distinguish what the crops were.

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The ornate entrance to the walled Italian city of Treviso, also known as “Little Venice” because of its canals.

It was late afternoon when we entered the walled city of Treviso, completely unaware of what was in store for us!

Treviso is not just another quaint Italian city. Treviso is:

  • the home of the Luciano Benetton, the founder of the fashion brand United Colors of Benetton – visit their flagship store in the central piazza (I have a number of Benetton items in my wardrobe)
  • the home of the highest quality Prosecco wines. The region is renowned for the highest quality Prosecco wines and only wines grown in the area can claim to be Prosecco (we love our Prosecco)
  • the home of Pinarello bike (cycling enthusiasts will know what this means)
  • the birthplace of one of Italy’s most delectable of Italian desserts, Tiramisu.
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The flagship store of United Colors of Benetton in Treviso’s Piazza Indipendenza

Treviso has more to offer! The city is the little-hidden treasure that few tourists have discovered. Known as the “Little Venice”, Treviso has none of the grandeur of Venice but is equally enticing for those who have already visited Venice and are looking for a more tourist-free experience. Instead of over-priced coffee, the Veneto tourist traps and throngs of tourists queuing for photo opportunities wander along Treviso’s more quaint canals, cobbled and narrow winding streets, wander into the churches and cathedrals, enjoy a coffee or pre-dinner aperitif in the central piazza and watch the locals living life! And, if you want a photo opportunity, stroll to Dantes Bridge.

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Dantes Bridge and the canals of Treviso

There’s an added bonus for us. We have arrived during one of the highlights of Treviso’s summer, the “Suoni Di Marca” – 18 days of concerts, performance, markets, food and wine on the city walls are held every summer. Free outdoor concerts are common in cities and towns throughout Europe over the summer months.

Each evening after dinner, we joined the locals milling about on the ramparts until late evening waiting for the concerts to start on the large stage set up on the corner tower. The Bueno Vista Social Club had the crowd (including us) jiving to their catchy Cuban salsa music one evening.

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Grup Compay Secundo (the Buena Vista Social Club) performing at Suoni di Marca in Treviso, 2018

For those of you who disembark at Treviso’s airport and rush straight to Venice, plan to stay a day two in Treviso next time to enjoy the charm of this under-rated city and the hospitality of its citizens. If you are arriving in Venice, then at least make time for a day trip before the secret is out.

P.S
We stayed at Brick House. Our apartment was well appointed inside the walls of the medieval city, clean and spacious with generous amenities. Our host, Alberto was very gracious and a mine of information sitting down with us on our arrival to consider our interests and share ideas on what we should see and do during our stay in Treviso, including providing options on local restaurants where we could appreciate local cuisine.

On our first evening, we enjoyed a delicious pizza and pasta meal at La Giaconda on Viale Frà Giocondo located not far from the Brick House in front of the city walls. Alissia was very helpful by translating the Italian menu for us and very accommodating to our dietary requirements.

On another evening, we enjoyed cocktails and a pasta dinner at a trattoria recommended by Alberto of the Brick House, Trattoria Hesperia. The trattoria is well-known for its simple but tasty traditional Apulian dishes which are made with fresh local produce.

La Beccherie is the birthplace of the Italian dessert, Tiramisu. Unfortunately, it was closed for a much deserved holiday break during our visit. However, I am sure we will be visiting Treviso again to make sure we taste the real thing. If you visit Treviso and try their tiramisu before we do or been there and tried it before, leave us a comment below and tell us what you think.

Toast the New Year in with Champagne!

28/12/2018 / / 0 Comments

The year is drawing to a close and we feel a sense of satisfaction for accomplishing our planned travel goals with a few unplanned journeys thrown in.

As we prepare to toast in a New Year, memories of a few special days in the Champagne region of France come to mind.

After a few days of seeing the city through Parisienne eyes and wandering the rues and boulevards of Paris, we collected our car to begin our road trip.

First stop is the city of Reims. The unofficial capital of the Champagne region in the northeast of France is the perfect place to base ourselves for a day or two to explore the region.

Reims is not only the centre of the Champagne. It is home to some architectural wonders, including the imposing Notre Dame Cathedral (where French kings came to be coronated), the beautiful City Hall, the Basilica St Remi and many admirable squares.

  • Reims Town Hall
    Reims Town Hall
  • The Basilica

Many of the regions Champagne houses including Taittinger and Mumm are headquartered in Reims and offer tastings at their cellar doors. Their houses are accessed through grand entrances and beautifully manicured gardens. An indication of the high esteem the French hold for champagne.

  • champagne-house

After admiring the city, we spend a couple of days exploring further afield.

Day 1 is a short 25km drive to Epernay, the home of the world’s highly acclaimed champagne houses.

  • Avenue de Champagne

On arrival, we find the streets deserted and not teeming with tourists as we had expected at the height of the European summer. It is lunchtime and everything apart from eating establishments are closed for lunch.

The Avenue de Champagne is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful streets we stroll along. Even more stunning when you have the street to yourself. We wander in and out of the grand champagne houses amidst beautiful grounds and gardens. These are the best champagne producers in the world!

  • Moet and Chandon
  • Moet and Chandon gardens
    The beautiful grounds of Moet and Chandon

We are disappointed at our first stop, the famous house of Moet and Chandon. The cellars are closed for refurbishment until after summer. We are directed a little further up the road to the House of Mercier. A partner of Moet and Chandon and owned by the LVMH group of companies, Mercier champagne is the most popular champagne in France. Eugene Mercier established his champagne house with the intention of making champagne readily available and affordable to all so that it was not only consumed for a special event but so it would become part of everyday occasions. The tour of the underground caves (18km long), on a laser-guided autonomous tram, provided an insight into champagne production, the different stages of the ageing process along with an added surprise – the remarkable basal reliefs that decorated the walls of the underground caves.

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    The ageing process – inside the caves
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    The huge champagne barrel which was carted through the streets of Paris to be displayed at the Paris Exhibition in 1889

Of course, the tour would not be complete with a tasting. We enjoyed tasting the “wine for the people” complete with a lesson on how to distinguish between the different varieties. Though not connoisseurs, and now having tasted both Moet and Mercier champagnes, we agreed, both were not dissimilar!

The day ended with a leisurely drive back to Reims through the vineyards around Verzenay.

Day 2 is a beautiful summer day to take a slow 30-minute drive along the backroads among grapevines and vineyards to Hautvillers, home of another vintage champagne, Dom Perignon. The roads are quiet and we wonder why we have the roads to ourselves, there is not another vehicle in sight. It appears that everyone else is in a hurry and prefers to take the motorway.

Dom Pérignon (1638–1715) was a monk and cellar master at the Benedictine abbey in Hautvillers, a quaint French village. His tomb is in the little Abbey and remains devoid of tourist traffic.

We wander through the village and along the narrow lanes to find picnic grounds at the top of the hill. The views over vineyards and down to the little village of Cumieres and the aqua waters of the River Marne are breathtaking. This is heaven.

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    Looking down the hill to Cumieres from Hautvillers

It is decided, we drive back to Reims via Cumieres on roads set amongst the vineyards and the gently sloping countryside through small champagne villages. The perfect end to a perfect day.

Our road trip had just started and we continued our journey through Burgundy, Provence, Bordeaux and the other wine producing regions of France. However, we will cherish our few days in Champagne.

If you are planning a visit to Paris and have a couple of spare days, take a short sojourn in the Champagne region, you will not regret it.

P.S.  A short champagne lesson:

Brut – 40% pinot noir, 45% another white wine, 15% Chardonnay, contains 9% sugar. Brut is aged for 2 years and is then ready to drink. It should not be kept for more than 3 years.

Rose – has red wine added.

Demi-Sec is much sweeter with up to 40% more sugar. It is a dessert wine.

Brut Reserve has more reserve wine added and the taste can change from year to year depending on the reserve added.

No year on the bottle – no vintage!

  • Mercier chanpagne tasting

Do you get tired of eating out when travelling?

28/11/2018 / / 0 Comments

One of the benefits of travelling independently is being able to choose where, when and what we are going to eat. No hotel buffet breakfasts, no dashing from the tour bus into the service station on the freeway for the obligatory 15-minute break to visit the bathroom and grab a quick lunch or themed dinners to attend. Instead, we take the many opportunities to sample local delicacies by visiting small cafes and restaurants that we come across during a day of wandering or eateries recommended by our apartment hosts.

Sometimes, when we are travelling for a long time, we tire of eating out. We crave for a simple meal without menus or waiters. Our solution is easy and always enjoyable and is easier when travelling in warmer climes.

Our favourite stops on our early morning walks are the vibrant daily markets found nearly everywhere we travel selling fresh fruit, vegetables, cheeses, poultry, meats and fish, freshly prepared meals.

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    Freshly prepared meals in Nimes, France

In many countries, a visit to markets to purchase fresh ingredients for the days’ meals is an integral part of daily life. It’s lovely to see what the local people are buying and selling. The markets are more than that though. They play an important role in the community’s social life. Cast your eyes around any marketplace and you will see neighbours stopping to chat with each other, sitting down for a leisurely coffee together or simply sharing a joke with a stall holder.

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    The colourful morning market in Zagreb, Croatia

For us, visits to the markets are made more exciting when we decide that it is time to take a break from eating in restaurants. We can pretend for a short moment in time that we are part of this community. We are no longer bystanders or tourists taking snaps of mouth-watering food. We are on a mission like everyone else. What are we having for dinner tonight?

We’ll take a stroll around the stalls to decide (so much to choose from!) stopping at the various stalls to ask advice or taste test those local delicacies. When we’re ready, we take another turn around to make our purchases. We’ll select a good bottle of local wine, buy a selection of cheeses, olives, bread, fruits and other accompaniments.

  • Nimes markets

The next step is critical. Where are we going to enjoy our goodies?

Sometimes, our apartment will have a balcony where we can sit and enjoy an al fresco meal. However, the best meals are when we join the city dwellers who take their dinner out to the local park for a picnic.

  • Savouring French wine on a beautiful summer evening in Paris
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    Picnic in the park in front of the Palais Real in the centre of Madrid

Relaxing over our meal, often in front of a beautiful monument, listening to a small group of musicians or simply doing a little people watching is one most rewarding parts of our travels.

Travel’s a picnic! We recommend you try it on your next travel adventure.

See the hidden treasures just outside of Rome

25/10/2018 / / 3 Comments

It was another bright, sunny day as we drove up to Hadrian’s Villa (Villa Adriana) just outside of Tivoli. We had spent a couple of weeks walking the tracks between the villages in the Cinque Terre, wandering the streets of Florence and Sienna, and roaming the Tuscan countryside. The drive, surrounded by endless fields of sunflowers through Umbria and into Lazio was beautiful, and Tivoli was our final stop before reaching Rome.

With parking restricted at the entrance, we parked in a neighbouring suburban street, found a little café for lunch in preparation for an afternoon wandering through the ruins of the UNESCO World Heritage site.

We were delighted to find there were no queues at the entrance. And, upon entering, only a few people inside the complex.

Hadrian’s Villa is a large complex of buildings, gardens, pools and fountains, dating back to 118AD. Emperor Hadrian built this rural retreat as his summer getaway from Rome and today, much of the site remains unexcavated. The unearthed ruins though, leave it to the imagination about how spectacular buildings and grounds of this original Villa were!

Entranced by the beauty of the Villa, we hadn’t noticed the dark clouds gather. Suddenly there’s a feeling of eeriness around us. Thunder starts to rumble and flashes of lightning rapidly crack across the sky. With more to see, we don’t let this deter us and carry on admiring willing the skies to clear – we still have much more to see.

The Gods take pity and it is not until we reach the Museum that it starts to pour with rain. The model recreation indoors gives us an insight into Emperor Hadrian’s appreciation of architectural styles and how beautiful the Villa originally was.

It was time to leave and with no sign of the heavy rain subsiding, the decision was made. He gallantly sprinted to find our car while I took cover.

And, so it was that we continued our short drive into Tivoli to find our little B&B in the small piazza just outside the amazing Villa D’Este. We will have a couple of hours to explore the famous gardens before dark.

With light rain still falling by the time we unpack and settle, we decide that a tour of the Villa apartments would be best before exploring the gardens. We are not disappointed, the apartments reveal stunning frescoes and stairways with glimpses over the gardens and beyond through the windows. This villa was the home of the very wealthy Cardinal Ippolito d’Este.

The grand finale is the amazing gardens, fountains and waterfalls – indescribable. The opulence of times past is difficult to understand these days, however, we are grateful that the Villa has been well preserved for us to enjoy and imagine times past.

Hadrian’s Villa is located outside of Tivoli and while we travelled by car, we understand there is a bus service from Tivoli which delivers you very close to the entrance (pop into the Tourist Office om Piazza Garibaldi for details).

Just over 20km from Rome, Tivoli can be explored on a day trip. However, we recommend that you stay at least one night in this small town to be able to explore the main attractions at a leisurely pace. Or, stay longer to use the town as a base as you explore the region of Lazio. Either way, do not miss the opportunity to go off the tourist track and pay a visit.

P.S. If you decide to stay in Tivoli, we can recommend staying at the lovely B&B Villa D’Este situated right next to the Villa D’Este. Our host, Fabio was very polite and accommodating providing us with a delicious homemade breakfast on the rooftop terrace. Make sure you request a room overlooking the piazza. They also provide complimentary parking in a car park close by. There are plenty of unique restaurants and cafes close by.

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