Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Author: Smita (Page 16 of 17)

Goodwill and kindness is an every day thing!

Christmas is the season of goodwill and kindness to our fellow man.

Random acts of kindness are even more important and appreciated when travelling. The patience of the restaurant waiter who takes pains to explain a menu written in a language you don’t understand, the kind grandmother in our compartment who smiles and nods continuously while offering our teenage sons lollies during our three hour train journey, the hospitality of the owner of our apartment who takes us for coffee to explain the area where we are living in, things that we “must do”, the buses to take and those to avoid, and the intricacies of traversing the city are the things which demonstrate the goodwill and kindness of everyday people.

We were driving south from Rome. Our ultimate destination was Sicily, but we were taking our time getting there.

The ruins of Pompeii are captivating. Having wandered through them a few years before as part of a group, we were keen to visit again to see more of it. For the record, it was not a disappointment going back for more in-depth look. In fact, we realised that we had only skimmed through the first time.

Before, we got to Pompeii however, we had plans to stop and have a look at the smaller, less visited but better preserved UNESCO World Heritage site, Herculaneum in which the town of Ercolano now stands.

Herculaneum

Our trusty TomTom which we take with us whenever we self-drive did a good job of making sure we took the right turn off. It had trouble, however, recognising “Herculaneum”. With no signage directing us to the ruins visible, we played a guessing game resulting in driving up and down the main street a couple of times entering from different ends after circumnavigating the central town area.

Ercolano

The main street of Ercolano

Ending up on a dead end street we decided to do the sensible thing of stopping to ask directions.  A group of men are having a lively and animated discussion outside a cafe. They are gesticulating at each other. Fisticuffs are about to break out!  We decide to distract them. In our limited Italian we asked the way to the “scarvi” (it means excavations In Italian).

They all looked at each other. We know what they were thinking “How to explain?”. Obviously we were nowhere near where we were supposed to be!

They looked at each other again and had another animated discussion between themselves, some smiling and some laughing. It looked like they had come up with a solution. Their argument is forgotten.

Two men directed us back into our car, put their motorbike helmets on and summoned us to follow. These two men guided us through the streets to the site of the ruins, directing us to where the entrance was before leading us into the public car park, ensuring we knew how and where to pay  and then disappearing like genies before we had an opportunity to thank or give them a token of our appreciation.

Left to our own devices, it would be safe to assume that we would have given up our search for Herculaneum and missed out on spending a wonderful couple of hours wandering through this ancient city. Excavations have unearthed better preserved buildings and artefacts than Pompeii giving visitors a better idea of how life was lived in Roman times.

Ruins

That evening He discovers that his watch keeps falling off his wrist. The watchband needs a replacement pin. Next morning we wander into a jewellery shop close to the Pompeii ruins. Using sign language we indicate the problem. The older gent takes a while. Hello. How much is this going to cost? We have heard of unscrupulous locals who take advantage of travellers. He hammers away with a little hammer. I hope he hasn’t broken the watch. Then he walks over from his workbench smiling. There you go! It’s all fixed. How much? No charge. Come on, He is happy to pay. No, you are visitors to our country! It’s our duty to be hospitable. Enjoy your travels!

These are all small gestures which allows us to see the good in all the people we meet, appreciate and fall in love with travel.

♥ The wall of love ♥

Sacre Coeur

Basilica Sacre Coeur – worth strolling up the beautiful streets of Montmatre to end up at this stunning monument.

We’ve visited Paris before and we could never tire of the historic and beautiful city centre. This time though, we want to see more and lose ourselves in the backstreets where we can really see the life of this city.

One of the monuments we’ve decided to visit is the Sacré-Coeur on the hill of Montmartre, just outside the city centre and our morning walk is the perfect time to do this.

It is, however, the route to the top of the hill which is the highlight for us.

While our self-guided walking tour begins at Place Pigalle taking us past more well-known sights like the legendary Moulin Rouge and the windmills on Rue Lepic we are soon walking up with steep and winding cobbled streets which take us past the pretty vine-covered houses where many acclaimed artists and writers have lived and through beautiful small parks.

We are excited to follow an out-of-the-way alley, walk down some stairs to see the strange statue of a man’s hand, leg and torso emerging from a wall and vow to make sure we read the short story Le Passe-Muraille by Marcel Ayme which inspired this sculpture.

Man in the Wall

A little further and come across the little vineyard Clos Montmartre, on a street corner. This working vineyard is one of the last vineyards in Paris and still produces a small amount of wine every year which is auctioned off for charity.

As promised, the grounds of the Sacré-Coeur Basilica provide some of the best views over the city of Paris, including the Eiffel Tower. The Notre Dame in the centre Paris attracts longs queues of visitors for its architecture, but this stunning white stone monument holds a commanding presence at the top on Montmartre hill and is well worth taking the time to venture out to.

Our favourite little find after wandering down the hill past little cafes and bistros in this eclectic neighbourhood is the small beautiful square at the base of the hill in Place des Abbesses. The shady enclave holds Le Mur des Je t’aime (the wall of love). The tiles which make up the wall are covered with the word “I love you” written in 250 languages. It’s fun to scour the wall to find the phrase written in languages you know and a lovely place to sit, reflect and soak in the atmosphere of this unique part of this unique city of love.

Love wall

Travellers note:

  • We designed our self-guided walking tour with the guidance of a number of online sources and the Lonely Planet – Paris, DK Eyewitness France and Frommer’s Walking Tour 1 in Paris.
  • Le Passe-Muraille (the Passer-through walls) is located in Place Marcel Aymé just off Rue Norvins – see the map here for the location.
  • Ale Mur des Je t’aime is located in Place des Abbesses –see the map here for the location.
  • More interesting self-guided walking tours are offered here – we have completed all of them.

A rainy day in Spain!

We’ve had our fair share of rain here in Brisbane! Almost non-stop for the past couple of weeks. Unusual for southeast Queensland at this time of year.

As I go about my daily life under the protection of my over-sized golf umbrella, I see tourists walking about with their backpacks, rain jackets and mini umbrellas trying to make the most of their stay in our city.

It reminds me of a rainy day in Spain.

It was the middle of July and we’d arrived in Barcelona having spent ten days leisurely driving south from Madrid to Andalucia and then up along the coastal route taking some time to join the Spanish holidaymakers in the beach towns of Denia and Peniscola.

We had already spent a couple of days exploring the city. It was our first visit to Barcelona and the city was living up to our expectations. A fantastic blend of cultures, Mediterranean influenced cuisine and amazing architecture.

Throughout our time in Spain, the weather had been hot and dry, just as it should be in July. Perfect conditions for those of us who like to travel to warmer climes when winter is upon us at home.

In a city which only experiences, on average, 55 days of rainfall in a year, with July being a month when wet weather should be rare, we are surprised to wake to the sound of heavy rain. We take our time over breakfast hoping that the rain will ease. As simple travellers, we are in no hurry. We do not have a train to catch or tour group to meet. We have no agenda, we are free to decide how we want to spend our day.

We are, however, tourists and the last thing we want is to waste a day sitting inside! We don our jackets and arm ourselves with our little travel umbrellas and head outdoors with no particular destination in mind.

Rain changes a city. A sense of urgency replaces the relaxed atmosphere of the previous day. Everyone is fighting for their space on the pavement dodging the splashes caused by cars in the narrow streets.

As if by chance we end up sheltering from a heavy downpour across the road from Palau Guell. The interesting wrought-iron work on the façade of the building has caught our attention. While this place had not been on our list of places to visit, it’s time to go in somewhere dry.

Guell2

The grand entrance

As it turns out, this ends up being the perfect place to spend a rainy morning. The house was designed by Antoni Gaudi in the late 1880’s for industrialist Eusebi Guell.  We were lucky, the townhouse had just re-opened after undergoing extensive restoration. This was not just any city dwelling. Ornate carved wooden ceilings in some rooms, doors infused with gold leaf, intricate stained glass were all examples of the riot of styles characteristic of Gaudi creations to create an impressive dwelling.

The sun was starting to peek through the clouds as we reached the pinnacle of Gaudi’s play on our senses. If the inside of the building was spectacular in its own peculiar way, Gaudi had decided to make sure his rooftop was a creation in itself. The twenty weird and wonderful chimneys and spire were worth the climb.

Guell4

An extraordinary “by chance” find for us on a rainy day in Spain.

Dilemma: where to stay?

I scroll through the emails in my “inbox” luring me to spend money and time in luxurious spas, hotels and resorts at truly affordable rates offering inclusions and options too good to knock back.  I stare dreamily at the screen seeing myself lying back on a sun lounge by the pool reading my favourite book in one of these exotic destinations.

It doesn’t take long to be shaken back into reality! Who am I kidding? Two days of this type of holiday and I will literally be running out of the place!

Advertising and rigorous competition amongst hotels and resorts make it easy to be convinced that we need to get away from our hectic daily lives. It is easy to be convinced into making travel decisions which include being pampered so we can relax and rejuvenate in accommodation which include offers to indulgent gourmet meals and luxurious facilities. It is no wonder that we can easily be swayed to incorporating this type of accommodation with our travel.

For the simple traveller, it is more about what the world has to offer; an opportunity to see the many natural and historic wonders, experience different cultures, traditions and food, interact with people who live in the countries which are different from ours and observe people in their daily lives.

Travelling simply has allowed us to experience all of the above and more by choosing to stay in accommodation where we become part of the local community, even for a short time. This does not mean that we compromise our comfort or the facilities available to us.  We often save a few days for indulgence at the end of a holiday but make the most of the rest of our time away to really experience what our destination has to offer.

From past experience, choosing to see a country by travelling as part of a tour group doesn’t provide room for choice. The decisions are often already made for you. The only dilemma you may on occasion be faced with is the choice of which “star” of accommodation you want to pay for if this option is even offered. You’ll generally have breakfast and dinner in the hotel, eat lunch on the run between stops at places of interest with the occasional themed group dinner giving you an opportunity to test the local cuisine.

Making the conscious decision to avoid hotel accommodation as much as possible by staying in self-catering style accommodation has provided us with a feeling that we are truly seeing a city, region or country. Not to mention, leaving us with many unique memories and connections along with an abundance of stories to tell.

Choosing to stay in apartments doesn’t mean that you will self-cater every day by cooking and eating the same type of meals that you would have at home.  It does mean that you stay in local neighbourhoods, have the opportunity to eat and drink where the locals do, watch the locals go about their daily lives, and option to sometimes shop at the local fresh food markets to try some of the delicacies in the comfort of your apartment when you’ve had enough of eating at restaurants and cafes and are craving for some simple food.

Booking an apartment has become so much easier in recent times. A large number of websites and apps are available to do the research for you providing comparisons and deals at a “click”.  Apartments are plentiful, more often than not providing all the luxuries of a hotel room with the added benefit of extra space.

The smart thing to do is choose a neighbourhood in the city area where the sights you wish to visit are within walking distance or accessible by public transport. Stay for a few days or longer if you’re lucky enough to spare the time to give you the opportunity to really feel like you are a local and drink in the atmosphere. Take the time to make expeditions into neighbouring towns and areas off the beaten track. This is what will make your holiday truly memorable.

If the travel aim is to rush from one sight to another ticking them off your “Bucket List”, this style of travel may not suit. Take a tour which will take you from sight to sight, and join the throngs of other tourists on the same tour plan. See the same tourists from the last hotel you stayed at as they step off their tour bus into your hotel and join them for dinner in the same restaurant.

What you will miss out on is meeting the people of the country you are wanting to see, eating where the locals eat which is often an experience in itself as well as a chance to observe and create your own view of the people.

Don’t get me wrong; not all of our accommodation choices have ended up being as good as they appeared in the photos. Hotel chains have high standards to live up to and apartment owners are not accountable to anyone. However, if you take note of reviews and make a little time to diligently research the property and area you wish to stay in you will be rewarded with wonderful hosts, lovely accommodation and a chance to live like a local.

The highlight of choosing to stay in smaller, localised accommodation is the interesting local people you will meet who give you an insight into their locality.  Often, this starts with your hosts who are a mine of knowledge and advice on when and where to eat, unique places to visit, special activities or events taking place around the local area and the best place to shop! A great number of our hosts have gone out of their way to obtain tickets to events, provide us with detailed information on what to see and do, assisted and recommended places to stay in onward destinations.  One has even vacated and provided their own home to us for our stay when all their apartments have been “booked out”.

There is no real dilemma: there is little excuse to stay in hotels if you want to really want to have an authentic travel experience.

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It’s more fun to self-drive!

Epernay1

The street was getting narrower and narrower. We contemplate if we should slowly ease our way back or bravely (and foolishly) venture forth.

We agree, we are too far in to back out now, we’ve made it this far! With no “One Way” sign in sight, we risk another car coming in from the other direction. Here goes.

The wing mirrors are folded in and calculations are made on how many millimetres we have on either side of our car to inch past the parked cars without causing any damage. Who allows street parking on such narrow streets anyway?

We’ve just travelled down the motorway from Madrid to Seville on our first self-drive adventure. We were jubilant to be told that we had been specially selected for an upgrade to a larger vehicle. We now see why the car hire attendant had that secretive smile on his face. “Nabbed these two novices”, he thought. We thought, this a brand new Mercedes, we can tour in comfort.

 Predicaments such as this make us wonder why we think of taking self-drive holidays. It doesn’t take long for us to remember…

I look across to our two teenage sons as we hurtle down the motorway from the Fiumicino Airport to our apartment in central Rome. They stare wide-eyed glancing between me and the speedometer as they watch the needle move over the 130km speed limit. Looks like all we’ve heard about crazy Italian driving is true. Our first experience on a European road.

Other vehicles on the motorway appear to be travelling at the same pace. Lorries laden with goods are racing along, as are the cute Fiat Puntos. Once we are over the initial shock, we sit back and watch the scenery feeling quite safe, our well-dressed Italian driver is ruling his piece of the road! We haven’t come across a road accident yet and are comfortable in the knowledge that we have no intention of driving ourselves. A few days of sightseeing on foot, a train ride to Naples before returning to Rome to join a tour to see the amazing country we’ve heard so much about on a coach tour.

The places we visited on our coach tour did not disappoint. We had had our first taste of Italy and would definitely be visiting again to see more of this country which had captured our hearts in such a short time.

Travelling along the vast stretches of motorway, we would pass by magnificent looking hilltop towns, farmhouse in amongst fields of sunflowers and olive groves wondering what it would be to stop and have a closer look and dream of staying with the locals as other adventurous travellers have done in the past.

It is the thought of realising this dream that continually encourages us now to take any opportunity we can to self-drive on holidays. We take a leisurely pace, not driving too many hours or too far in the day just to go from A to B. Instead, we stop regularly in planned places of interest or divert off the beaten track towards something that has caught our eye. We enjoy slow travel by arranging longer stays in towns so we can spend time exploring surrounding countryside and attractions, and experience the varying cultures and culinary experiences of smaller towns.

We have given away the faster motorways, or at least try to avoid them. European motorways are much easier to drive on. They may seem hectic and daunting at first but they are the best place to get used to driving on the right hand side of the road (if that is the wrong side for you). Drivers tend to stay in their lanes, trucks often have their own dedicated lanes, and once you are on the road you realise that there is method to this madness. There is more courtesy and respect with very little tailgating.

Often we will park our car on arrival and revert to exploring a town on foot.  However, it’s much more interesting to amble along back roads, take in the scenery and visit places off the tourist radar on the way to our destination.

Of course, things may not always go smoothly, like our Seville experience. We had another one just a few days ago, driving into London City. The city area has a “congestion charge” which we wanted to avoid by driving around the outskirts of the area when returning our hire car. Our GPS had other plans! Before we knew it we were driving along the River Thames on a perfect summer’s day taking in the spectacular sights of the London Eye and Westminster before us.

“Take a right turn here”, the GPS told said. Suddenly we were driving up The Mall towards Buckingham Palace, up Constitution Hill and through Marble Arch. Our sightseeing was complete before we had even checked into our accommodation.

The congestion charge was paid online – no harm done. We laughed off the experience and agreed it was an exquisite way to enter London City.

Self-drive will not always go to plan and provide you with lots of little surprises along the way. It will, however, let you see a lot more than you intended to.

Epernay2

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