With a long history, scenic landscape, and surrounded by mountain ranges and vineyards, the city was the first stop on our driving tour of Germany. Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.
Koblenz sits conveniently at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers. This makes it the perfect city from which to explore the greater Rhine and Moselle valleys.
Koblenz
Koblenz, founded by the Romans and with a history spanning over 2,000 years of various rulers, has evolved into a treasure trove for its visitors.
Our top things to do in Koblenz
Jesuitenplatz
In the heart of Koblenz’s Altstadt is a square named for the Jesuit order. The order was part of the city’s community for almost 200 years, until they were expelled from the city in 1773. The Baroque building and portal on one side of the square, formerly the Jesuit College, is the Town Hall.
Jesuitenplatz
Take some time to look out for the small Jesuit Church built in the 1610s, which stands quietly in the corner of the square. It’s easy to miss!
Visit the History Column in Görresplatz Square
Another lovely square in Koblenz’s old town is Görresplatz. Surrounded by beautiful buildings, the square’s main highlight is the History Column.
The History Column in Görresplatz Square
The fountain was built in 1992, marking the 2000th anniversary of the city. A column recounts the city’s detailed history. The scenes depicted on it span from Roman times to the Middle Ages, the Electorate (see the section on the Electorate Palace below), the French occupation, and up to the present day.
Deutsche Eck Monument
The Deutsches Eck Monument on the riverfront in Koblenz
The Deutsche Eck Monument celebrates two important features of Koblenz: the spot where the Moselle and Rhine Rivers meet, and the large statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. It pays tribute to the German emperor, who was the first head of state of a united Germany.
Basilica of St Castor
The Basilica’s twin towers peek out from between the trees a short distance from the Deutsches Eck. It’s the oldest church in Koblenz.
Basilica of St Castor
Most of the architecture dates back to the 12th century. Like other parts of the city, some sections of the Basilica were damaged during World War II, but they were reconstructed to their original condition.
Wander around the pleasant gardens in the complex behind the Church building.
The gardens of the Basilica of St Castor
Florinsmarkt Square
Another Altstadt square to pass through is Florinsmarkt Square. Formerly the political and economic centre of the city, it houses four historic buildings. Unfortunately, three were in a state of disrepair, boarded up and in need of major renovation when we visited. The only building of significance which has survived the times is the old shopping and dancing hall. It stands proudly at the back of the square.
The shopping and dancing hall building in Florinsmarkt
Under the tower clock, there’s a small inlay of a knight. The knight’s eyes move back and forth in time with the clock’s pendulum and sticks out its tongue every full and half hour. Legend says he is reminiscent of the robber baron Johann Lutter von Kobern, who was executed on the Florinsmarkt in 1536. Apparently, he twisted his eyes on the scaffold and stuck his tongue out at the spectators.
Walk along the riverfront promenade
A walk along Konrad Adenauer-Ufer Kastorhof, gazing up at the fortress on the hill across the river, is the perfect way to savour some downtime in Koblenz.
At the far end, away from Deutsches Eck, you’ll see the imposing Prussian Government Building. It cuts a striking imperial presence on the waterfront. Inside are monumental staircases with vaulted halls and outstanding stonework.
The former Prussian Government Building
Today, the building houses the Presidium of the Federal Office of Bundeswehr Equipment, Information Technology and In-Service Support (BAAINBw). The southern part has housed the Koblenz Higher Regional Court since 1993.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress
High above on the right bank of the Rhine, looking across over the city, is Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. There has been a fortress here since the 11th century.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress on the hill overlooking Koblenz
After hundreds of years of changing rulers and destruction, the current fortress was reconstructed by the Prussians and is now the second largest in Europe.
The best way to access the fortress is by taking the scenic cable car ride from the Konrad Adenauer-Ufer Kastorhof promenade. A bonus is the spectacular scenery over Koblenz on the way to and from the fortress.
Views from Ehrenbreitstein Fortress
The fortress buildings are now home to the Koblenz State Museum. Even if you’re not interested in museums, it’s worth crossing the river for the panoramic view of the city. There’s also a wooden viewing platform which gives expansive views of the city and the rivers.
Electoral Palace
We found the groundkeepers hard at work tending the gardens of the grand building, which is not far from the riverfront promenade.
Prince Clemens Wenceslaus built the Electoral Palace (you’ll find his statue on the street leading to the Palace) over nearly 20 years from 1777 to 1793. The Palace was taken over by the Prussians in 1815 after the Prince was forced to leave Koblenz after the French Revolution. For the next 100 years, it was a residence for Prussian royals for 100 years.
The Electoral Palace
The building was damaged by a bombing during WWII and rebuilt to its original structure, but it became evident as we moved closer that the building was abandoned. Paint was peeling from the facade, and it no longer looked as majestic as close-up.
One of the groundsmen approached us as we peered through the windows to ascertain the state of the interior. He indicated that we could walk through an entrance from which we could access the gardens on the other side.
The riverfront gardens of the Electoral Palace
While the building was indeed in a state of disrepair, we are thankful for the encounter with a groundsman who found us peering through the windows into the building. He indicated that we could walk through an entrance into a hallway, from which we could access the beautifully terraced gardens in front of the river
Visit a biergarten
On a hot summer day, after visiting the sights around the city, there is nothing better than enjoying the river breezes while sampling local beer at the biergarten on the Koblenz riverfront. It’s the perfect place from which to watch the riverboats cruise by, people-watch, and have a banter with the locals.
Where we stayed
We booked a charming apartment in the heart of the Altstadt, which was within walking distance of all sights and attractions and close to the river.
The apartment was spacious for the two of us, tastefully decorated, and featured a balcony. Our host met us on-site to provide access and assistance to the garage. The “icing on the cake” was the bottle of local wine that our host had generously left for us to enjoy. A lovely welcome gift for our first night in Germany!
Fresh off a morning arrival on our flight into Frankfurt, we hopped into our car and headed north. We were driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed route is divided into two parts.
The Rhine Castle route
We would drive the first half to Koblenz and stay there for a couple of days before completing the second half to Bonn. Koblenz, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers in the Upper Rhine Valley, is one of Germany’s oldest cities. The Mitterhein wine region also runs between Bingen and Bonn.
Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route
The drive from Bingen to Koblenz
Dotted with over 40 castles, the route is also part of the Rhine Valley wine region. The city of Mainz, approximately a 90-minute drive from Frankfurt, serves as the gateway to the wine region, while the Castle route begins from the town of Bingen. Bingen is a sleepy town with a lovely main street with cafes and restaurants. We stopped to have lunch there before continuing.
From Bingen onwards is a real treat for anyone wanting to drive this route. The road winds its way alongside the river while riverboats slip gently past. Along the way, there are castles and fortresses on high peaks or set lower amongst the vineyards on both sides of the river. While it isn’t practical to visit all the castles, nor are many open to the public, it was fun driving along, spotting them all. The drive between Bingen and Koblenz should only take an hour; however, to enjoy the scenery, making short stops at designated viewing points and allowing yourself a detour to a castle or two on the way, you should allow at least two to three hours.
The fairytale Philippsburg Castle in Marksburg on the Rhine Castle route
With so many castles and options, we strategically chose a few spots to look out for on the route.
Burg Reichenstein
Sankt Goar (Rheinfels Castle), from where you can look across to the Lorelei
At Boppard, we stopped to look across the river to Sterrenberg Castle
After Boppard spotted Marksburg Castle
Looked out for Stozenfels Castle just before arriving in Koblenz
A visit to Schonberg Castle
A castle that wasn’t on our list, but we couldn’t resist visiting after seeing it perched on the hillside from afar, was Schonberg Castle. A short distance off the main road in the town of Oberwesel, we wound our way up the hill to the castle’s car park.
Outside Schonburg Castle walls
The castle, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, was built in the 12th century; however, there are records of a dwelling on the site in 900 AD. From the car park, it’s a couple of minutes walk to the small arched entrance into the cobbled carriage path and inside the castle walls, from where a narrower walkway continues into the castle courtyard.
Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance
The Dukes of Schonburg and their families lived in the castle from the 12th century until 1689, when much of it was destroyed by troops during the Nine Years’ War. Partially reconstructed in the late 19th century, it wasn’t until the town purchased it in 1950 that it was completely revived.
The castle is now a 4-star hotel, Burghotel Auf Schonburg, with a museum in the castle tower, which is open to the public. The castle’s gardens are, however, available for only hotel guests to roam. For others, there is a vantage point overlooking the Rhine River, giving you splendid views. The picturesque scenery from above was worth making the small detour and was one of the highlights of our drive.
View from Schonburg Castle lookout
There is also a small lookout before entering or after exiting the castle walls, from where there are excellent views of the grapevines of the hills of the valley behind the castle.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress in Koblenz
In Koblenz, we had anticipated taking a morning walk up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress high on the hillside over the city from the other side of the Rhine River. Unfortunately, there was no easy way to cross the river on foot.
Instead, we waited until after we returned from our day excursion to the beautiful town of Cochem, to go across by cable car to look around the fortress. The cable car ride provides fabulous views over Koblenz’s old town.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is a complex of buildings sprawling over a large area of the eastern bank. The fortress buildings are now home to the State Museum, displaying antiques and war memorabilia.
If you’re not a museum-lover, you can take a wander around the extensive fort area, savouring the views, especially from the viewing platform, which is a piece of art itself. The triangular-shaped wooden platform was originally built for a Horticultural exhibition, then repurposed and placed on the fortress’s grounds. From the platform, you get spectacular views of Koblenz, the Rhine and Moselle Rivers.
The Rhine Castle route from Koblenz to Bonn
The Rhine Castle route is determined to run from Bingen to Bonn. However, we were disappointed not to find any noteworthy castles or fortresses on the drive along the Rhine River between Koblenz and Bonn. Maybe they are well hidden from the roadside.
Our opinion
The first section of our drive, between Bingen and Koblenz, mesmerised us with the centuries-old, magnificent castles and fortresses as well as the terraced vineyards on the rolling hills on both banks of the Rhine River. The entire journey is picture-postcard worthy, and we would consider driving again at a much slower pace, making more stops and detours to visit select castles.
Note: Some castles and fortresses charge an entrance fee to visit inside.
In case you’re interested
During our journey, we stopped in the beautiful old town of Mainz, stayed in the historic city of Koblenz, which dates back to 8 BC, and from Koblenz, took a day trip to the charming town of Cochem, located along the Moselle River. Click on the links below to read more about these beautiful places in Germany.
After 36 days of walking the full Camino de Santiago route (780km) from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in southern France, we stood in front of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela. We had done it!
Why we chose to walk the full Camino de Santiago
Ten years earlier, we had stood in the same spot watching bedraggled but euphoric pilgrims arrive after completing their Camino walk. This scene inspired us to set ourselves the challenge of some day completing our own Camino walk.
Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela
Once we’d decided to walk the Camino, we agreed that we wanted to commit to walking the entire Camino Frances route.
World events and other travel plans meant our Camino had to be put on hold for several years, but in 2023, we decided that this was the perfect time to do it. We reconnected with our travel arrangers, UTracks, to make the arrangements.
Were we ready to do this – Camino jitters
Did we get Camino jitters? Of course we did! We had never walked long distances on hiking trails, almost every day for 36 days.
Getting closer and closer to our start date, we often asked ourselves questions, “Were we ready to do this?”, “Were we prepared, had we trained enough?”, “Had we packed the right gear?”. All are questions that first-time Camino pilgrims ask themselves.
Suddenly, we were in St-Jean-de-Pied-de-Port, and the only way to go was forward. We started by putting one foot in front of the other and completed one of the hardest days on the Camino de Santiago, hiking over the Pyrenees mountains into Spain.
Did we enjoy walking the full Camino de Santiago?
Yes. It is indeed an experience of a lifetime. Little did we know when we started that it would leave an indelible mark on our lives. In one way or another, we find ourselves recalling or talking about a particular scene, episode, or day on our walk.
Then, there are the people we met over the 36 days of walking the full Camino de Santiago. People walk the Camino de Santiago for various reasons; some prefer to walk solo with minimal interaction, while others enjoy meeting and engaging with fellow walkers from around the world. We met some wonderful people during our time on the Camino.
How did we feel when we got to our destination?
Watching pilgrims arrive at the Cathedral on our first visit, we saw a mix of both tears of joy, elation, and in some cases, pure exhaustion.
How did we feel? There was a small shine in the eye but even more were the wide smiles on our faces. We had achieved the challenge we had set for ourselves. We had reached our destination safely and without injury.
Ground Zero – Plaza de Obra
The important stuff for walking the full Camino de Santiago
We’re glad we …
Made sure we were fit and ready. Important lesson is get in shape before you arrive to commence the Camino. Don’t be afraid of the idea of having to walk every day or the distances. You”ll find your walking legs affer a few days.
Invested in good footwear and breathable socks. We bought sturdy new hiking shoes and broke them in before we arrived in St Jean Pied de Port. Most importantly, to prevent the common Camino feet ailments of blisters and sore muscles, we stopped regularly throughout the day to take off our shoes and socks, air our feet and rest.
Used hiking poles. We invested in a pair retractable hiking poles which we carried in our daypacks ever ready to come out whenever we needed support going up and down hills. We found they came in extremely useful to steady and assist on the steep descents. They prevented us, as is the tendency, from moving downhill too fast. We came across a few pilgrims suffering knee injuries or just sore knees from going too fast without the support of hiking poles.
Chose to walk the full Camino de Santiago during the summer months. This prevented us having to walk in rainwear as well as slippery and muddy tracks. Yes, the summer can be hot and dry. We started our daily walks immediately after breakfast, when the temperatures were moderate, to arrive at our destination by ealy afternoon before the extreme heat arrived. By the late afternoon we were sitting refreshed and relaxed in a cool spot having pre-dinner drinks. Some of our walking companions chose to commence in the very early hours to avoid the heat in the day. To escape any injury, we preferred not to walk in thr dark.
Took our time and paid attention when on the trail. It’s easy to lose focus when you’re tired. That’s how injuries happen! Or waymarkers get missed!
Took advantage of luggaage transfers. Many pilgrims prefer to carry their own backpack and belongings. We enjoyed the freedom to enjoy our daily walks without the extra weight on our backs. Our transfers were efficiently undertaken by Jacobtrans. More often than not, our bags had arrived and were safely installed in our rooms before we arrived.
Booked private accommodation instead of choosing to stay in albergues. Knowing we had somewhere pre-arranged to stay overnight meant we could enjoy our walking days. We noticed many pilgrims depart in the ealy hours trying to reach their next destination before others arrived to ensure they had secured a bed for the night. If they arrived too late and missed out they would have to continue to the next albergue which could a distance away or even worse, have to backtrack. We also took the option to upgrade our accommodation at several stops so that we could experience staying in a monastery.
Factored in rest days. Northern Spain has some beautiful cities which international tourists don’t visit. Pilgrims can really experience the authenticity of a Spanish city. We took rest days in Logrono and Leon. It allowed us to spend the day looking more closely at the city and visit their attractions. We also recommend staying an extra night in Burgos.
Took our travel yoga mats with us. Having our yoga mats on hand meant we were disciplined and did yoga and stretches at the end of each day. It made a big difference. We had no aches or pains and suffered no injuries during our walk.
Be prepared
Some of our thoughts on enjoying and making the most of your Camino. Be prepared:
To put away your device while walking. Use it only for taking photos to record memories of your journey. Instead, enjoy the natural environment, greet and interact with fellow pilgrims and locals. You’ll find that language is not a barrier when walking the full Camino de Santiago.
To turn and look back. Some of the best scenery could be behind you. Unless you are planning to walk a return journey, you may not see the same scenery again.
To walk at your own pace. As long as you have done the preparatory work before commencing the Camino, your body will get used to the environment and walking long distance.
To find you”ll miss walking the full Camino de Santiago. Many pilgrims experience a sense of loss once they have finished their route. The daily act of walking becomes meditative an addictive and as you get closer to the end, you almost don’t want it to end.
Our recommendation
Time permitting, we recommend walking the full Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela as a wonderful active holiday experience. While the final 100km can become busy, for most of the journey it’s the best way to see northern Spain’s stunning natural environment without crowds of tourists.
The Camino provides an opportunity to escape the everyday noise of the world provides time for peaceful reflection.
The Camino allows us to challenge and find that our bodies are capable of the physical and mental challenges of traversing ever changing terrain and the large distance.
Would we walk the full Camino de Santiago again?
For some pilgrims/walkers, walking the Camino de Santiago fulfils a once in a lifetime dream. Others return to walk the same path over and over again. We enjoyed our personal Camino and the challenge.
There is always the possibility that we will return to walk the same route again. As travel enthusiasts, however, there are so many other travel adventures we would like to undertake before we returned again to recomplete the full Camino Frances. There are numerous other Camino routes we would consider completing first.
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
Are you interested in or contemplating walking the full or part of the Camino de Santiago and want to know more? Take a look at our blog which tells you everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago through the link below.
Days 35 and 36 of walking the full Camino de Santiago were our last on the Camino route. The distances were shorter than the past two days, and the trail led us through green pastures and farming country towards our destination, Santiago de Compostela.
Day 35 – Arzua to A Rua (O Pino)
We started our day in Pazo Santa Maria’s restaurant. The table was laden with food, including homemade butter and jams, Arzua cheese and freshly made scrambled eggs.
Breakfast at Pazo Santa Maria
Stomachs filled, we caught the sun rising over the countryside before our hotel driver returned us to the main town and the Camino route.
All the regular hikers we’d seen since Sarria were already on their way. Everyone was wrapped up against the cold, but it wasn’t long before the cloud cover burned off, revealing the sun and warmth.
Dry forest trails filled with more pilgrims as the morning wore on and the celebratory atmosphere continued. Musicians had set themselves up along the track, and pilgrims stopped for a break and listened.
Stopping to listen to musicians on the Camino trail
Despite the shorter walking distance, we continued our ritual and stopped after a couple of hours to take our shoes off, let our feet breathe, and rest while we ate protein bars.
We caught up with the “Quiet Americans” back on the path. He was still walking with discomfort. She told us that since she had recovered from her injury on Day 21, he was using one of her poles to assist with the final part of their Camino. They would stay overnight in O Pedroouza, the next town from O Rua.
We passed through several pretty villages before reaching O Pino just before lunchtime; a few steep climbs, but on the whole, it was a pleasant short walking day.
O Pino
Rounding the corner on a shaded path, we found ourselves at a fork in the road. The path to our right led to our hotel. The left path took us into the charming village of O Pino. We decided to follow the lane lined with colourful homes and beautiful gardens, hoping to find a place for coffee and lunch.
Beautiful country lanes
With no cafes or restaurants in sight, we thought we would have to turn back to have lunch at our hotel, but suddenly, a lovely restaurant with tables arranged in a spacious, shaded grassy area appeared. It was the perfect spot to eat and rest before we went to our accommodation.
We settled at an outdoor table, ordered our lunch and watched pilgrims come and go. Our delicious salad was a combination of greens, mangoes, avocado, nuts and seeds.
A Rua
After lunch, we backtracked along the lane and turned towards the main road and our hotel on the outskirts of the town. It wasn’t far away, and before long we had checked in, unpacked, completed our yoga and showered.
A Rua is a small village (pop 50), and with little else to do, we read for a while in the small sitting area at the end of our hallway. The hotel was full. Noisy guests, both pilgrims and holidaying families, came and went between the floors. We retreated to our room to watch a couple of episodes of The Crown before going downstairs.
There’s a cosy outdoor area outside the hotel entrance where we had a glass of wine and journaled before dinner. The hotel restaurant served us a delicious meal of grilled vegetables, lentil soup, fish, Santiago cake and rice pudding.
Another episode of The Crown rounded off our relatively relaxed second-to-last day on the Camino de Santiago.
Our accommodation
Hotel O Pino looked simple from the roadside; we didn’t have high expectations. However, we found the hotel comfortable and full of character. In addition to the elegant sitting room on our floor, the hotel provided a couple of outdoor retreats for guests.
Arriving at Hotel O Pino
Our room was spacious and comfortable.
Walking statistics
18km
5 hours, including a lunch stop
Day 36 – A Rua (O Pino) to Santiago de Compostela
It was our last day of walking the full Camino de Santiago. Most of us would finish our Camino in Santiago de Compostela, others would continue after Santiago to Finisterre and the Atlantic Ocean, and some would even continue to complete another Camino route. Although Santiago de Compostela was still 22km away, we all felt we were almost there.
We woke at 6:30 am to shower and pack before breakfast in the restaurant at 7:30 am. The restaurant was bustling with pilgrims eager to be on their way.
The path was quiet when we started walking at 8:00 am. Many pilgrims had left early to reach Santiago de Compostela in time to attend the midday Pilgrim’s Mass in the Cathedral.
Pilgrims on the last day of walking the Camino de Santiago
We left the hotel behind a group of three families walking together. Everyone was chatting jovially, the younger members walking a little ahead of their elders.
A Rua
Country lanes with small homes, vegetable patches, and small watering stops accompanied us as we passed through A Rua township and onward through the settlements of O Pedrouzo and Amenal.
Eucalyptus and oak trees appeared, and we caught a few last moments of peace walking along the forest trail without any pilgrims.
Unexpected quiet forest trails on our last day of walking the full Camino de Santiago
Just before San Paio, there was a large engraved stone Camino sign. We couldn’t resist taking a photo of ourselves with it as a reminder of our odyssey.
Making memories!
San Paio
While only a small hamlet, we were attracted to turn off the trail by the quaint bell tower of the small San Paio de Buscas Church for a closer look. It was also an opportunity to have our morning tea and rest at the cafe across the path.
The pretty San Paio de Buscas Church
While not mentioned in our guide, quite a few pilgrims were visiting inside the pretty stone church. Our research tells us the church is dedicated to San Paio, a 14-year-old saint who was kidnapped by the invading Muslim troops, taken to Seville and martyred before being tossed into the Guadalquivir River.
A chance meeting
Aubern, the young French pilgrim we had met intermittently while walking the full Camino de Santiago, emerged from the church as we arrived. We had last met him in El Burgo Ranero on Day 20. Although Santiago wasn’t far from San Paio, and unlike many of us, Aubern planned to arrive in the cathedral square the next day. For him, it would be Day 90 on the Camino. As he had told us when we first met, he had started his Camino walk from his home city of Paris.
We discussed his plans to continue walking on Finisterre, Murcia, and return to Santiago de Compostela. He had good news; he and Manu, one of his fellow young pilgrims, had connected. She had returned home after completing her planned section of the Camino, but was returning to walk the remainder of Aubern’s Camino with him. Even better news: Aubern had used the solitude of his time on the Camino to reassess his career path and found a new direction.
We were unlikely to see him again, so we wished Aubern well and waved goodbye. He was off to find an albergue for the night.
Lavacolla and Vilamaior
The Camino route travels around the Santiago de Compostela Airport runway before returning into the forest. On the forest trail just outside San Paio, a lone bagpiper set the scene for our arrival in Santiago de Compostela. There was a sense of celebration in the air!
There were still more forest tracks to follow, though. Throughout our last walking day, parts of the trail were strenuous enough for our hiking poles to come out.
Galician horreos
Horeros were still scattered in the small towns, and an unfamiliar sight on the Camino, what seemed to be a hand-painted protest sign, was prominently placed on the main path through the small settlement of Vilamaior, 10km from Santiago de Compostela.
Monte del Gozo
We arrived at Monte del Gozo, just 5km from Ground Zero (Cathedral Square). It’s at the lookout, where pilgrims see the Cathedral’s spires in the distance, that reality sinks in. We were nearly there!
There are two other reasons to stop at Monte del Gozo. A large monument to celebrate the 1993 Holy Year stands at the crest. Close by, there is a small chapel. It’s the last opportunity for pilgrims to get their Pilgrim’s Passport stamp and qualify for their Compostela Certificate.
The approach to Santiago de Compostela
The last part of the road after Monte del Gozo was downhill through the city’s outskirts before we found ourselves at the Santiago de Compostela sign. One step closer to the Cathedral and its square, where, 10 years before, we had first experienced the elation of pilgrims arriving and committed to walking the Camino de Santiago someday.
The first indication that we had almost arrived was the colourful “Santiago de Compostela” sign that everyone was lining up to have their photo taken at. We had a couple of photos snapped of ourselves as a memento, too.
Nearly there – we couldn’t resist a photo at this colourful sign
The remainder of the walk continued along the main road. Bakery staff stood outside their stores, welcoming pilgrims with samples of Santiago Cake.
The final few steps walking the full Camino de Santiago
The road led us into the narrower streets of the old town, then finally past some of the rather imposing but beautiful administrative buildings in the smaller square, down the steps into the small tunnel where bagpipers welcomed pilgrims and visitors into Plaza de Obradoiro (Cathedral Square).
Entering Plaza de Obradoiro
The entrance into the square with the bagpipers playing is a moving experience for both pilgrims and bystanders alike. We were glad to arrive on a bright and sunny day, unlike our first visit to the square 10 years earlier.
The Plaza was relatively quiet when we arrived at 12:30 pm. Most pilgrims were inside the Cathedral de Santiago, attending the pilgrims’ mass. We took photos for other arriving pilgrims and had some taken of ourselves in front of the towering church that dominates the square.
Ground Zero – Plaza de Obradoiro
It wasn’t quiet for long. Moments later, pilgrims and worshippers emerged from the Cathedral, filling the square, embracing and congratulating each other. A sense of community and spirit that only those who have walked a Camino will experience.
Collecting our Compostela Certificate
With the busyness around the Cathedral and the Square, we decided to leave a visit to the Cathedral until later. Instead, we went straight to the Pilgrim’s Office, a street away, to pick up our Compostela. Our Pilgrims Passports were filled with more than the necessary number of stamps; we had accumulated as we made our way from Saint-Jean-de-Pied-Port to Santiago de Compostela.
While snaking outside the entrance, the queue wasn’t as long as we expected and moved quickly. Pilgrims’ Passports and our details, including the reason for our walking the Camino, and we were issued our beautiful Compostela, inscribed in Latin.
We returned to the street, Compostela in hand, to search for a lunch venue. Many of our Camino colleagues were already basking in the sunshine and lunching in the cafes outside. Our newfound Australian friend, Wendy, and her Hungarian and Korean companions greeted us warmly. They had arrived in Santiago at 9:00 that morning.
The “Quiet Americans” sat at the cafe we chose. We congratulated them, introduced ourselves to each other and chatted about the Camino experience. Shannon and Mike left that same evening to go on holiday to Porto, Portugal, for a few days before returning home.
Passing time in Santiago de Compostela
Our accommodation was conveniently located in Plaza de Obradoiro, and after lunch, we headed straight there to see if we could check in. Hotel reception told us that our room would be ready at 3:00 pm, so with an hour to kill, we decided to walk around the Mercado de Abastos before finding an outdoor table in a small square to enjoy a celebratory beer.
Once checked in, we did a yoga session, shower, and stepped out of the hotel at 5:30 pm, crossing the Plaza to visit the Cathedral. Pilgrims were still arriving, and the atmosphere was festive. Having visited the Cathedral on our last visit, 10 years earlier, we thought it would be quick; however, once inside, we took the opportunity to queue and pay homage to the remains of St James and the statue in the crypt. Unlike last time, kissing the statue is no longer permitted.
Inside the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela
A celebratory final evening in Santiago de Compostela
Catching up with pilgrim friends
Louise, whom we had not seen since leaving Palas de Rei, had been in touch, suggesting we catch up for a drink to celebrate completing the Camino de Santiago. We met her in Plaza de Immaculada after visiting the 9th-century parish church, Parroquia de Nosa Señora la Antigua da Corticela, part of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela.
Enjoying our catch-up in our hotel bar, and reflecting on our Camino journeys, David and Catherine from Yuva City, Sacramento, whom we had met many days earlier, walking into Ponferrada, came past. Their friend, whom they were rushing to meet in Sarria, was with them. They had completed the Sarria to Santiago de Compostela sector of the Camino together.
Our final meal after walking the full Camino de Santiago
We returned to Plaza de Immaculada and down a small street brimming with holidaymakers and pilgrims dining at pulpo restaurants to find ourselves in a delightful square surrounded by colourful garden beds. An Italian restaurant on the other side of the square was the perfect place for a pizza dinner.
Stumbling across old friends
On our way back to Plaza de Obradoiro and our hotel after dinner, we were surprised to see Veronika, our Mexican friend whom we hadn’t seen since Day 22 in Leon. Veronika and Kevin. too, had arrived early for mass. Veronika was excited to have accomplished her lifelong wish to walk the full Camino de Santiago.
Dancing in front of the Cathedral
Cathedral Square was alive with people singing and dancing in a circle. We stopped to watch. The majority were from a large Oregon and Montana contingent that had just attended the World Youth Day gathering in Lisbon.
The Catholic Youth gathering is held every three years in different cities around the world. Members of the contingent enthusiastically shared that the highlight of their trip was Pope Francis’s attendance at this gathering. We saw the youngsters again in the hotel lobby the next morning. They had stayed overnight, and we left carrying their takeaway breakfasts
We enjoyed the festivities a little longer before crossing the square to our hotel. It had been a big day, and we were ready to sink into our luxurious bed for a restful sleep before catching the train to Madrid.
Our accommodation
For our last night and to celebrate our completion of walking the full Camino de Santiago, we had requested our Australian travel arrangers, UTracks, to reserve us a hotel room in one of Spain’s most luxurious Paradors, Parador of Santiago de Compostela.
Our accommodation, Parador de Santiago de Compostela
The hotel was originally built in 1499 to accommodate pilgrims with more modest accommodations. Today, guests can still visit the four beautiful cloisters and see some of the original rooms.
One of the four cloisters inside the Parador de Santiago de Compostela
It was the perfect way to spend our last night of walking the full Camino de Santiago.
Highlights of the day
And, so it was. We had completed walking the Camino de Santiago, nearly 800km from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela. We were elated to have completed a challenge we had set for ourselves 10 years earlier on our first visit to Santiago de Compostela.
Of greater impact was meeting up with some of the pilgrims we journeyed with at different stages of the walk. There were many we didn’t re-encounter and whom we missed congratulating. We hoped they had completed their Camino safely.
Walking statistics
22km
5.5 hours including a rest break
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.
Follow our 36-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.
Having compiled our chronology of walking the full Camino de Santiago, we’ll share our reflections and noteworthy suggestions from our experience. Subscribe to our email list to receive the post straight to your inbox when it’s published.
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Days 33 and 34 of walking the full Camino de Santiago involved long distances. The route varied between forest paths and roadside tracks with moderate ascents. As we approached our final destination, lots of pilgrims filled the paths.
Day 33 – Portomarin to Palas de Rei
When we emerged from our hotel to start our walking day, the air was cool, and there was fog. Both accompanied us for a couple of hours as we navigated the forest paths passing through the small village of Castromaior and continued to walk uphill gradually.
Fog added another dimension to the start of our walking day
When we finally reached the hillside pastures, the fog cleared, revealing a beautiful blue sky. Pillows of clouds hung over the valley below.
Views once the skies cleared
Pilgrims on the trail
There continued to be plenty of walkers on the trail from Portomarin. Many walked hurriedly past us, including Louise, who had found a new walking partner. We continued at our pace, ensuring our legs didn’t tire. As the morning wore on, we found we had caught up and passed most of the pilgrims who had rushed past us earlier. It was then that we found times of quiet and could enjoy the scenery.
Conversations on The Way
There are moments while walking the full Camino de Santiago when you connect with fellow pilgrims and share the journey, comparing experiences along the way. A short distance outside of the hamlet of Ligonde, we heard a familiar accent from one of the two women walking ahead of us.
Pilgrims on the track
A “Buen Camino” greeting initiated the conversation. Wendy, from Western Australia, was on her first visit to Europe and, like us, had started her Camino in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Her walking companion, a Hungarian and an English teacher, was practicing her English while sharing lessons on European history as they walked. Both had begun their journey at 5:30 am and were in no hurry.
Palas de Rei
With a population of under 1000 inhabitants, Palas de Rei is principally a farming town, but despite the agricultural surroundings, the walk into the town was scenic. Our arrival was well-timed. Our accommodation was right on the trail, so we called in to see if our luggage had arrived before continuing to have lunch in town.
The Camino de Santiago trail winds through the town, which provides excellent facilities for pilgrims. Many walkers were on the town’s main street when we stopped for lunch before returning to settle into our accommodation.
Iglesia de San Tirso de Palas de Rei on the main street of the town
We found our Australian and Hungarian ladies at the supermarket. Since we had left them earlier in the day, they had collected another companion, a young acupuncturist from Korea. They had found an albergue to stay the night in and finished their Pilgrim’s Meal (Menu del Peregrino).
Apart from the main street, there was little else to see in the town, so we passed some time wandering through the supermarket looking at the different Spanish products and bought a nice bottle of local wine before returning to our accommodation to shower and settle in.
A relaxed afternoon and evening
Our room in the bed and breakfast was small (more about our accommodation below), but we managed to find space to complete our yoga and stretching before showering. Feeling refreshed, we headed downstairs to enjoy some time on the lovely patio. The temperature was more pleasant than the evening before in Portomarin.
Relaxing on the covered patio of Casa Leopoldo
Our three hosts sat at one end of the large outdoor table quietly chatting while stringing fresh beans from their garden. Kiwifruit hung from the vine-covered roof of the patio above us. We sat at the other end, enjoying the gentle hum of their voices over a glass of wine and journaled.
Our evening meal was at a restaurant around the corner. It was early evening, so we were the first diners to arrive at A Reloxeria. It wasn’t long before the other tables filled with locals. The restaurant’s attentive staff warmly welcomed us into their casually decorated restaurant.
They then proceeded to serve us our dinner. We had a well-presented and flavourful meal starting with a cheese and charcuterie platter, followed by a greens salad including sundried tomato, nuts, berries, and cheese, then a main of spinach and prawns with scrambled eggs. Walnut ice cream accompanied the Santiago cake, completing our meal.
Our evening ended with a relaxed hour lying in bed watching some Netflix on our tablet.
Our accommodation
One of our lovely hosts ushered us into our lodgings when we arrived. The living room where she greeted us and completed formalities was exquisitely decorated and set the scene for what was to come.
The charming stone house, Casa Leopoldo, is owned by three sisters. Their niece (who speaks English) welcomed and ushered us up the stairs to our room. We couldn’t help but look up and linger over the frescoed wallpaper on the ceilings. There are six en-suite bedrooms upstairs.
A glimpse of the exquisite decor of our accommodation, Casa Leopoldo
Our room was small but tastefully decorated, offering all that we needed. Additionally, we had access to a beautiful living room and patio. Our delicious breakfast the following morning was sitting in the warm and cosy kitchen at the large communal table.
While we heard other guests arrive after we went to bed, we didn’t meet them as we had breakfast and left before them the next morning.
Walking statistics
26km
7 hours, including a rest break
Day 34 – Palas de Rei to Arzua
We were up at 6:00 am to prepare for a long day of walking.
Our day started at Casa Leopold’s large kitchen table, where we were served a delicious breakfast by our hosts, who must have been up at the crack of dawn to prepare the array of breakfast offerings.
While there was much on offer, we filled up on Casa Leopold’s speciality, Pilgrim’s Eggs (poached egg over mashed potato and caramelised onions), toast served with local butter and homemade jam, finished with fresh fruit (watermelon, bananas, oranges and kiwifruit). The homemade cake looked appealing, but we were too full to partake.
On the road to Arzua
Bidding our wonderful hosts farewell from the house’s cosiness, we stepped out into a cold and cloudy day to start walking to Arzua. Our raincoats provided extra protection against the cold, and we were warm inside from the hot breakfast.
Again, there are plenty of pilgrims leaving Palas de Rei with us. Before long, we walked along forest tracks, through a village and were right back into the forest again. About 90 minutes into our walking day, the clouds cleared.
The serene start to our walking day
There’s a fair amount of steep climbing and descending, but without the rocks, the hike isn’t as challenging as some of our earlier days of walking the full Camino de Santiago.
Leboreiro
The landscape flattened out, and we walked along paths lined with eucalyptus trees before arriving in Leboreiro. From the 11th to the 13th centuries, this town was a major stop for Camino pilgrims. As we passed, there was no sign of its popularity or inhabitants..
Melide
A four-arched medieval bridge, Puente de San Xoan, led us into and through another small village, Furelos, and into the outskirts of Melide.
The medieval bridge leading into Furelos
In contrast to Leboreiro and Furelos, Melide was buzzing and busy. Despite it being a Sunday morning, the town centre was busy. Families were gathered at cafes, queues formed outside bakeries, pavements were crowded, and traffic flowed along the streets. Peregrinos added to the hustle and bustle.
Welcome to Melide
Sunday in Melide
Pulpo in Melide
Melide has a reputation for its Galician-style pulpo (grilled octopus). A duo from the first pulpería we passed offered us morsels of their pulpo to entice us into their restaurant for a meal. Our Korean trainee priest was outside the restaurant with one of his walking companions, waiting for a table to become free.
Unlike many of our fellow pilgrims inside enjoying their plates of octopus, we decided 10:30 am was a little early to stop for a meal. Instead, we bought a couple of bananas and ate them at a cafe on the main street, watching the Sunday activity.
Lunch in Boente
The trail continued up and down rolling hills and forest trails with more horreos to look at along the way. Our lunch stop was roadside in the small hamlet of Boenta, an hour away from Arzua.
The quiet streets of Boente
Arzua
Arzua is famous for its dairy products, particularly its cheese. When we arrived in the town centre in the early afternoon, locals and pilgrims were enjoying lunch together at the cafes and restaurants along the main street.
We were overjoyed to see Mr Blue Singlet sitting at an outdoor cafe. We hadn’t seen him since Leon. As we passed, we got the impression he wanted to say something, however, we just ended up acknowledging each other as we continued.
A retreat in Arzua
Because our hotel in Arzua was outside of town, we had further to walk than most other pilgrims. Although the accommodation offered free transfers from the Camino trail, it was only a short distance, so we decided to walk.
A further 30 minutes through the town’s back streets brought us to our country retreat. It was 3:00 pm and we had been walking for 7.5 hours. As we arrived through the gates, we immediately knew we would enjoy our stay.
After settling into our room and feeling refreshed, we began exploring the beautiful rural property. The outdoor patio offered stunning views over the pastures. Unfortunately, the evening air was too cool to stay outside for long, so we decided to retreat inside to the lounge of the historic main building.
The views over the countryside from the deck of Pazo Santa Maria
An enchanting evening in Arzua
The early evening was spent relaxing with our journals and conversing with the manager, who told us the hotel’s history over a nice bottle of local wine with nuts and potato chips.
Relaxing in the lounge
Dinner at 7:00 pm is in a stone building across from the lounge. It is early, and because many guests are not pilgrims, we have the restaurant almost to ourselves. We enjoyed a delicious meal (the best on the Camino route). Our meal consists of an entree of hummus on mini bread, pumpkin soup, cheese and tomato salad, cod with potatoes and vegetables, and vegetable rice with soy sauce. The desserts are delectable tiramisu and cheesecake made with Arzua cheese and ice cream.
Our accommodation
Arriving at the beautiful rural property on which Pazo Santa Maria is located, a couple of kilometres from central Arzua, was a pleasant surprise.
The beautiful Pazo Santa Maria estate
The hotel complex features separate stone buildings, encouraging guests to explore the property and enjoy the beautiful rolling countryside beyond. The main building, which houses the reception and lounge areas, is the original farmhouse built in 1749.
Our room was spacious, featuring a very comfortable bed and luxurious Italian bathroom amenities that were greatly appreciated. As was the overnight laundry service they offered.
Pazo Santa Maria’s restaurant
Both meals, dinner and breakfast, were above our expectations. The restaurant was cosy and inviting, and the staff were very attentive. We noticed coins set into the small crevices between the stones throughout the restaurant. The staff told us it was customary for guests to make a wish and leave a coin in an unoccupied crevice. We did too!
Coins in the wall
Highlights of Days 33 and 34 walking the full Camino de Santiago
Interactions with fellow pilgrims can often be short while walking the full Camino de Santiago. Some may be just in passing, while others can continue over days as we each continue at our own pace. It was always heartening to see walkers, like Mr Blue Singlet, that we thought we would never see again, and there was comfort in realising that they too had noticed us on the trail.
We had grown accustomed to the different types of accommodations where our overnight stays had been pre-booked. Each was a sanctuary and welcomed by us, especially after the days when the walk had been long and arduous.
Our overnight stays in Palas de Rei and Arzúa were delightful, and the welcomes and interactions with our hosts, despite the language barriers, left us with pleasant and lasting memories.
Walking statistics
30km
7.5 hours, including two rest breaks
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.
Follow our 38-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.
