Author: Smita (Page 7 of 16)

Trogir. Croatia — The historic little town of Trogir

The easiest way to visit a Croatian island

10/05/2020 / Smita / 0 Comments

“Let’s spend a day on one of the islands”, we agree. We’re in Split, Croatia. Having spent a couple of days exploring the city we think it might be nice to visit one of the islands off the coast. We’ve read much about the natural beauty of the islands; the whitewashed towns and rolling hills covered in lavender and vineyards, the clear blue waters of the Adriatic Sea which lap at the edges of golden sand beaches, and the hidden coves.

It is the height of summer so the queue at the ferry ticket booth helps us change our minds and look at an alternative option. Trogir and Ciovo are small islands connected to the mainland by bridges and we can drive there.

Rain is falling when we wake the next day, lucky we didn’t buy tickets for the islands! We set off hoping it will stop by the time we arrive in Trogir. The road is busy and the 30-minute drive takes almost an hour but the rain has stopped and the sun is peeping from behind the clouds by the time we have parked.

It’s early and few people are about. Much of the historic town is still closed so we look about without distraction. The town itself is very small and can be walked around in a matter of minutes. However, we take our time walking around the harbour and along the charming waterfront to the fortress before exploring the tight streets of the UNESCO listed historic centre.

Trogir promenade — The palm-lined promenade in Trogir

Back in the car, we drive over the new bridge to Ciovo with the aim of driving as much as we can around the island’s perimeter taking in the scenery and stopping in the main resort areas of Okrug Gornji, Okrug Dornji and Slatine. Maybe we’ll go for a swim.

Once on the island, the coastal road takes us past sheltered coves with small jetties and pebbled beaches. Our leisurely drive comes to an abrupt stop when we reach Okrug Gornji, the island’s main town. There’s a traffic jam of holidaymakers trying to find a car park to buy supplies, settle by the beach or like us, passing on the way through.

Once past the traffic, we find Okrug Dornji, only several kilometres away. It’s a small beach settlement surrounded by pine trees. The road narrows and our GPS tells us that there is no option to circumnavigate the island. Lunchtime is nearing and with limited options, we turn back to Okrug Gornji.

The traffic is still there and we are ravenous by the time we are beachside. There are plenty of eateries along the waterfront to sit, enjoy a bite to eat and people watch. Children frolic in the shallow waters while parents keep an eye on them from behind sunglasses lazing on their sun loungers. There is an air of relaxed informality. Unlike most beaches in Europe which are segregated and cordoned for paying guests, the beaches on Ciovo are mostly public. There were options to hire sun loungers etc. although we did not see them being extensively used.

Okrug Gornji beach, Ciovo, Croatia — The relaxed atmosphere beachside at Okrug Gornji

Well-fed and rehydrated we make the return journey bypassing the bridge back to Trogir to continue towards the other end of the island. The scenery is beautiful, small groups of holidaymakers are enjoying an afternoon dip or jumping off little jetties into the crystal clear waters. We reach Slatine, another small beachside area. Not too much else here either. But we can see Split across the ocean. We realise that our previous day’s circuit of Park Suma Marjan was ambitious.

Ciovo is a family-friendly island and vacationers seem to be mostly Croatian. The southern side is steep and barren making the northern coast more popular because of its varied landscape. Pine and cypress forests intermingle with vineyards, olive and almond plantations and the beautiful coastline, without having to take a boat ride to reach it makes it a popular destination. In keeping with the relaxed atmosphere, accommodation is mostly made up of small B&B’s and guesthouses. There is no sign at all of any large hotels.

Our conclusion about Croatian islands

You would ask if it is worth the visit? Would it have been a better use of our time to go to Brac or Hvar? The ease of access in the comfort of our own car (even with the slow traffic conditions) was definitely a bonus.

Trogir was quaint and charming. After the busyness of Split, it was nice to be able to walk about without being one of a crowd.

Ciovo provided a chance to observe how the Croatians like to holiday with their families (like us, simply). The coast road was beautiful and provided another perspective of the mainland.

We were glad we provided ourselves with this unplanned opportunity to do what we love to do; follow the backroads and see what other tourists don’t.

Our plan is to visit some of Croatia’s well-known islands on a future visit; hopefully, while small boat sailing along the captivating coastline of this country.

If you liked this post and are looking for ideas for a day trip from Dubrovnik, then you’ll like this post.

When is the best time of the year to visit Tuscany?

06/04/2020 / Smita / 1 Comment

We think the best time to visit Tuscany is in summer when the vineyards are green and vines drooping with grapes ready to harvest and pastures are full of sunflowers following the sun’s daily path.

Having stayed in the larger cities of Florence and Sienna on past visits we decided to settle in the smaller town of Arezzo for a few days so we could explore the countryside north and south of it.

Make sure you enter the old town before 5pm our host warned us otherwise you won’t be able to drive your car in. And, follow the map we have provided; do not trust the navigation system (very deceptive). We understood why once we entered the gates of the historic old town. The streets are a maze of narrow alleys with colourful flags hanging on street corners.

Giostra flags flying in the streets of Arezzo

Stephano looks after his family-owned apartment on the first floor of a building built in the 16^th century where we are staying. He is excited that our visit to Arezzo coincides with the Giostra Del Saracino (the annual jousting festival) being held at the weekend telling us that there will be plenty of things happening in the lead-up. Check-in is complete and the car is parked in a garage so the streets can be kept clear for the practice sessions.

Stepping outside into the small square there are two police officers guarding the small square outside our apartment. Why are they guarding the spot; are they expecting big crowds or hooliganism? “No, it’s just to keep the streets clear in preparation for the joust. The area is the base for setting up the knights in armour before the joust”, the policewoman who speaks impeccable English tells us. Sonia proudly tells us that she is a competitive flag-waver and has visited Australia for a competition. Both officers are helpful with suggestions about what we should do and see during our few days in the area.

Our first stop is the main square, Piazza Grande. A beautiful square unique for both the coats of arms which adorn the facades of the medieval buildings around the square and for its sloping red brick surface, it is known as home to the annual Giostra and the Fiera Antiquaria, a monthly antique fair where up to 500 dealers fill the square on the first Sunday of every month. Enchanting at the best of times, it is even more so as we watch musicians rehearse in preparation for the Giostra.

Piazza Grande, Arezzo - Giostra de Saracino

Piazza Grande in preparation for the big jousting competition

The Giostra dates back to medieval times and continues the tradition where the town separates into four quarters (each quarter has their own flag) during the Giostra. Two knights are nominated to represent their quarter in the joust. Dressed in medieval costume, the knights, cheered on by their supporters and residents of their quarter, ride into the square to strike the Saracen (a wooden figure covered in armour) with their lance. The team which hurts the figure the most wins.

PSX_20200404_221719

We are enlightened about the jousting tradition when we come across a local dressed as a knight standing outside the doorway of the official contest office. He invites us in to show us memorabilia while giving us the history behind the joust tournament in his limited English. An abbreviated description: in the 14^th century, the people of Rome called the people of countries on the east side of the Roman Empire (Persians, Turks, Arabs and all Muslims) Saracens. A number of battles were fought between the two religions where the Christians defeated the Muslims. The recreation of these battles by staging festive jousting contests started in the 16^th century.

Saturday night arrives and the town is bustling in anticipation. There is a festive spirit as many enjoy an evening out for aperitifs and a meal before the highlight. We do the same! We partake in an evening ritual we have adopted by stopping at the bar where we had enjoyed our coffee earlier in the day to enjoy a refreshing Aperol Spritz with tapas before continuing on around the corner for a beautiful meal in the garden setting at Osteria il Grottino.

Taking a stroll to digest our dinner before having a gelato, we arrive on Corso Italia just as the parade is commencing. Drummers, trumpets, armoured warriors, flag-wavers, jousters on horseback create a wonderful precursor to what is yet to come.

Armoured knights, Arezzo

The parade having passed and with a gelato in hand we continue on to the arena in the Piazza and find a vantage point. Tickets for the event seating has been sold out in advance so we find a spot among the crowd lining the perimeter of the square to listen to the bands and fanfare before the competition starts. Then it starts. Turn by turn the knights on horseback thunder down the narrow alley heading straight to the Saracen accompanied by the roar of the crowd in support of their knight. Hearing both is exhilarating.

No time is wasted on the contest and before we know it, it’s all over and we scurry back to our apartment before the jovial crowd disperses.

Our conclusion

If you are interested in medieval history and would like an authentic experience, the joust season is the perfect time to visit Arezzo. Our honest opinion, we would say any time is a good time. Stay a few days because there is much to see in do in the town and surrounding countryside.

A little more info

Where we stayed:

Il Mezzanino is in the historic centre. A modern apartment in a historic building, it captures the charm of Arezzo’s past. The apartment is well placed to walk to the main tourist attractions (Piazza Grande, the Cathedral of San Donato and the Santa Maria della Pieve church). Listen out for the church bells chiming and the sound of Gregorian chants emitting from the small church in the courtyard outside the apartment on Sunday mornings.

Some of the other towns we visited in the area:

Castiglion Fiorentino is a little walled town sitting on a hill with picturesque views over the surrounding countryside 19km from Arezzo. It sits on the road between Arezzo and Cortona and worth stopping for a look on the way. Sonia, the policewoman we met in Arezzo suggested we visit. It is her home town and she runs a B&B in the town – Suites San Michele which is where we will base ourselves on our next visit to the area.
Cortona is hilltop town about 28km from Arezzo with fantastic views to Lake Trasimeno and across the southern Tuscan countryside. The town was made famous by the author Frances Mayes in her book and subsequently in the film “Under the Tuscan Sun”. Wander its streets and into the beautiful Piazza della Republica where the nativity scene was filmed.
Montepulciano is another hilltop town about 60km from Arezzo via Cortona. We detoured taking a scenic drive along the back country roads lined with sunflower farms, vineyards and orchards to reach the town. A historic town full of palaces, churches and pretty squares and steep streets it provides stunning views over the valleys that we had just driven through. The area is known for its Nobile wine and there are plenty of shopfronts for family-owned vineyards in the town where you stop to taste and buy.

And, one more thing:

If you liked this post, you may like our recommendation on taking a drive in the Chianti area of Tuscany.

A highlight in Bangkok most visitors miss

18/02/2020 / Smita / 1 Comment

It is dark outside as we start our morning walk.

Expecting the city streets to be quiet so we can watch it awaken, we find it is anything but! Everyone has made a head start on us. The roads are jammed with traffic and pavements are busy with owners of micro-businesses staking their claim to a place on the footpath. Further ahead a group of young Buddhist monks stand patiently on a street corner hoping that passers-by will fill their vessels with alms.

We negotiate the footpath avoiding the temptation to stop and look. There will be plenty of time later in the day. For now, we are headed to the largest green space in Bangkok, Lumpini Park.

Lumpini Park

Lumpini Park is where Bangkok’s city folk go for a respite from the hustle and bustle that is going on beyond its boundaries. There are 57 hectares to explore with lots of greenery, open spaces and shaded areas off the paths.

Early morning is the best time to visit, not only because it is cooler but also because it is the best time to capture the essence of what the park means to the people of Bangkok.

Group activities in Lumpini Park

By the time we arrive daylight has just broken and the paths around the park are already full with runners, joggers, fast and slow walkers while on the manicured lawns, various forms of tai chi are being performed by groups of all ages. Elsewhere, yoga mats are spread out with yogis practising their poses. We notice there are plenty of shaded seating areas. Most are full of groups of people. Some have elderly women spreading breakfast out on tables to share while they have a natter and under others, groups are practising their musical instruments. We come across a patch filled with outdoor fitness equipment being very well used.

There were groups of people practising the graceful art of Tai Chi throughout the Park

Giant lizards in the Park

We take our time meandering through the park and around the lake. As a part of the path nears the lakeside we are surprised by several giant lizards in the water and parading about on the lawns. They look very much like Komodo dragons. The locals seem unperturbed by their presence and go about their business so we feel safe but are mindful about keeping our distance though just in case they are dangerous. We find out later that these are Monitor lizards and completely harmless unless they feel threatened. They are part of the ecosystem that keeps the park free of dead fish and birds.

Monitor lizards in Lumpini Park

Fitness in the Park

The Park holds something for everyone. We come across seniors club; a dedicated building where the elderly can gather for formal activities, in a far corner a ball-room dance class is in session with a group of middle-aged couples taking part. Further on, we come across a dilapidated looking outdoor gym with a hotch-potch of rusty gym equipment. It looks abandoned and we wonder if anyone uses it. We find it being well-used when we walk past on another day.

The open-air gym in Lumpini Park

As we near the end of our circuit we hear music pumping from loudspeakers and arrive at the park entrance to see the iconic Lumpini Park aerobics class in full swing. At least sixty people of all ages and fitness levels are following the moves of the energetic instructor on stage. The class is free and held every morning and evening. It’s worth joining in for the fun, laughter and fitness or simply stop to watch the fun.

The aerobic classes looked like fun

Go to Lumpini Park at any time of the day and you will find yourself amongst locals. The Park loses many of its users by 8am if you prefer to visit at a quieter time. However, if like us, you prefer to watch a city come to life, arrive as dawn breaks. Be entertained, get your daily dose of exercise and enjoy the Park with the locals.

Lumpini park

A hidden gem in London you must visit

31/01/2020 / Smita / 4 Comments

Julia, our London greeter meets us outside the Welcome Centre at the Tower of London. After a couple of days retracing our path around London’s popular tourist spots, we are looking forward to seeing a little of the hidden London reserved for those who dare to look for more.

St Katharine Dock

Along the Thames end of the Tower following the path around the corner, there is our first surprise: a marina full of all types of sailing vessels encircled by a mixture of old and new buildings. Just minutes from central London and we feel like we are in a completely different world.

Newer sailing vessels line up behind an older ship and we watch as the shipmaster shouts instructions to his shipmates as he carefully guides his charge through the lock into the River Thames.

After walking back and forth over small footbridges around the marina we arrive at the pride and joy of the marina. The Gloriana is the British Royal barge commissioned for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. The regal rowing barge is based at the Dock and kept in pristine working order ready to make an appearance on the river at the drop of a hat. And, in the summer months, Gloriana sometimes sails up and down the Thames albeit powered by its onboard motors.

Wapping

Further along from the Dock, we pass stately Georgian and Edwardian homes sitting on the banks of River then enter the narrower paths. This is Wapping.

A passageway leads us to the old stairs leading down to the River at the rear of the Town of Ramsgate pub, one of the oldest pubs in London. Julia recounts stories from the past of east London while we sit on the stairs to admire the views up, down and across the River.

Town of Ramsgate Pub by the Old Stairs, Wapping

Wapping was once a pretty rough part of town. This is where ships arrived from all parts of the world to unload their cargo and thieves and petty criminals hung hoping for a bit of luck. Most were unlucky ending up at the gallows for their efforts. The area is known for its Execution Dock, where these thieves and criminals along with mutineers and pirates met their end. One of the most famous in history is Scottish Captain William Kidd, whose life and times are now portrayed in literature, film and music.

There is more to see. Walking further along, there are memories of the past all around us that we would not have noticed had our attention not been drawn to them. Many of the old warehouses which used to store tobacco, rice and wine have now been converted into upmarket apartments and houses or eating establishments and cafes. Their facades still hold remnants of their historic past lives.

St Johns Old School with its two distinctive statues standing above the doorways indicating separate entrances into the school for boys and girls stands opposite the old St John’s Churchyard. The school building dates back to the mid-1700s. Little remains of the churchyard today. Instead, it has given way to become a leafy garden with park benches on which to sit and appreciate the school building. The building is no longer used for the purpose it was built for. It is now a private residence and the two statues are replicas with the originals stored safely away.

The statues above the entrance of Old St John School

Wapping was and is home to many old pubs and one of them, Turner’s Old Star, has a story behind it. The pub was originally two homes inherited by the artist Joseph William Turner (William Turner). He converted them into a tavern named The Old Star and ensconced one of his mistresses in there to run it. To ensure his anonymity he went as far as assuming her surname “Booth” and soon became known in the area as “Puggy Booth” because of his short height and plumpness. The “Old Star” was refurbished in 1987 and renamed “Turner’s Old Star” in Turner’s honour.

A beautiful stroll along the Ornamental Canal leads us back to where it all started past the picturesque Dickens Inn to finally stop at the two elephants which stand on the pillars of the gate outside the only original warehouse standing in St Katharine Dock, Ivory House and convey our gratitude and say our goodbyes to Julia.

We turn back to re-enter the Dock. It’s lunchtime and there are a myriad of cafes, restaurants and pubs to choose from.

A Luxury Escape to Egypt

31/12/2019 / Smita / 1 Comment

The Pyramids of Giza and The Sphinx

Is Egypt a safe place to visit? Events of recent years ensured the country was not high on our list of countries to visit independently. A chance sighting of a newspaper advertisement spiked our interest and ultimately gave us an opportunity we had not previously considered.

We jumped at the chance and booked “The Sights of Egypt”: A 12 day Tour with a Nile River Cruise and International flights, a small group tour offered by Luxury Escapes.

The booking experience

Luxury Escapes teams with other travel brands and partners to negotiate and provide value-driven holiday packages. The online booking process was simple and easy to navigate providing comprehensive detail about the tour, availability, pricing, and information on inclusions and exclusions. However, this particular package not a last-minute special. To ensure our spaces were reserved, we booked and paid nine months in advance. Note: There is a “Book Now, Pay Later” option available for some packages.

A confirmation email was received with a follow-up email requesting passenger information from the booking agent. All further dealings related to our travel arrangements were conducted with Destination International Holidays, the booking agent responsible for our tour. We were provided with an opportunity to specify our preferred airline or a partner airline for flights and to upgrade our hotel accommodation at additional rates.

There was little interaction with Destination International Holidays. Having received no further communication after our initial booking correspondence, we phoned them a couple of months prior to make sure our travel was scheduled. They confirmed and assured us that we would receive travel information closer to our travel time.

Destination International forwarded travel documentation, a detailed itinerary with supporting information and an opportunity to add and pay for additional visits/tours (prices were cheaper than paying on site a few weeks prior to our departure.

The tour experience

Our small group tour catered for up to 16 people. We were very lucky to have only 8 people in our group. And, within a couple of days, we discovered that we were among like-minded people which added, for us, a new dimension to travelling on a tour.

We enjoy researching our destinations when travelling independently, educating ourselves on the local history and culture. On this tour, we were assigned not just a tour guide but a historian. Amir, who provided in-depth historical background behind all the sights, towns and cities we visited. In fact, he was a little annoyed whenever we got caught up with taking photos instead of listening to his commentary.

Instead of finding our own way from the airport to our accommodation, we were treated to exemplary service by being greeted at the airport, guided through the visa procedure and taken to our transport to our hotel and checked in.

Of course, we did not have to queue for admittance to the major sights and attractions.

Armed with advice from Amir, there was ample free time throughout the tour to explore cities independently and to join up for visits to the main sights. We were grateful to have the benefit of Amir’s expertise as he provided historical commentary and background throughout our visits to major sites. If we had been travelling independently, we would not have appreciated the historical significance behind so many of the places we visited.

The accommodation

We decided to take the premium accommodation option and were glad we did. Our accommodation in Cairo at the five-star Ramses Hilton right in the centre of Cairo. It provided us with an opportunity to explore life in central Cairo on our own, taste local cuisine and wander the back streets to see the real Cairo and its inhabitants.

Our accommodation in Alexandria was the historic Steigenberger Cecil Hotel. Situated on the scenic waterfront, we were treated with beautiful views of the Mediterranean, a walkway along the waterfront and markets and shops right outside the hotel door.

: The ornate staircase and cage lift at the Steigenberger Cecil Hotel

: The foyer of the Steigenberger Cecil Hotel

Our home for seven nights’ cruise was Princess Sarah II. While not as elegant as a few of the other upmarket riverboats we came across cruising the Nile, it was typical of many others plying up and down the River Nile. Our room was large and comfortable with a seating area allowing us to relax and watch life on the River. The top deck was well equipped with a swimming pool (although it was a little cool to swim in March), plenty of sunbeds and undercover seating to sit and watch the captivating scenery pass by. It was also the best place to watch the riverboat manoeuvre through the lock system and the daring hawkers attach their small sailing crafts to our riverboat to barter their wares to us.

The grand staircase of the Princess Sarah II

Hawkers touting their wares on the River Nile

The highlights

The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, Cairo – The last remaining of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Pyramids are much bigger than we imagined and the Sphinx was much smaller than we had envisaged. We were grateful for having access to an Egyptologist who provided us with historical background about the Pyramids and how they were built; and guidance about which underground burial chambers we should climb down into.

The Karnak Temple of Amun, Luxor – This impressive temple complex was our introduction to the many temples in Egypt and one of the largest religious complexes in the world. Entering through the Avenue of Rams is spectacular as we catch sight of the huge pillars and obelisks. Walking among the magnificent columns of the Hypostyle Hall and learning about the meanings behind the hieroglyphics on each pillar was a highlight.

The Avenue of the Rams

The Valley of the Kings, Luxor – Our visit commences early so we are treated to visiting the Valley when it is relatively empty. The three tombs we visit are well preserved and the inscriptions and vivid drawings on the walls take the breath away. Words cannot describe thousands of years of history and culture hidden in these underground treasures. Reliefs, frescoes and hieroglyphics line the walls into the main tomb areas and antechambers.

: The well preserved ceiling fresco inside one of the tombs we visited

: Inside the tombs in the Valley of the Kings

Sobek Temple, Kom Ombo – Our twilight visit to the Sobek Temple commenced with docking in Kom Ombo with a view of this beautiful hilltop temple. The temple precinct was teaming with both local and foreign tourists but a pleasant stop nonetheless. We enjoyed a little spare time following the temple visit wandering through the market stalls which lined the riverside dock.

The Great Temple of Ramses, Abu Simbel – Definitely worth rising at 3:30am for the 230km early morning drive on the desert sand road to the temple site on the banks of Lake Nasser. We are distracted by the beauty of the Lake as we walk toward the temple from the behind, totally oblivious of the enormity of what we are about to see. Turning the corner, four enormous statues of Ramses II appear before us sitting majestically at the entrance. Carved out of a mountain in 1264 BC, the whole complex was covered by shifting desert sands and its magnificence lost to the world until a Swiss explorer discovered it by chance in 1813 when he noticed the heads of the statues showing above the sand. Slowly uncovered, the temple complex was shifted 200 metres from its original position to higher ground under a large rescue mission involving more than 30 countries when the area was flooded to create the High Dam.

The verdict

The small group tour was a good way to undertake our first visit to Egypt. The country has undergone much upheaval since 2011 and this has affected tourism in the country. This is especially noticeable along the River Nile with many riverboats still lying idle along the banks. For us, this was an advantage. There were still many tourists about, mostly undertaking organised tours, although not as many as in the past or as is now expected as confidence in safety grows and travellers return to see the magnificence of Egypt’s ancient history.

As is usual on a bus tour, we were obliged to visit local craft and art stores in nearly every city we visited. There was no coercion by the store owners or tour directors to purchase.

For independent travellers such as ourselves used to straying away from the main tourist sights to explore, we found there was sufficient time available for us to go off and explore. The tour operators provided advice on how to conduct ourselves in this predominantly Muslim country, prepared us for the onslaught of hawkers whenever we stepped out on our own and gave general advice on staying safe. As in any country we visit, we were sensible about our safety and felt comfortable to move about on our own. However, for comfort and to enjoy the experience, we would advise female travellers to be accompanied or go out in a group.

Our conclusion: One of our fellow travellers when we asked him about what he thought about our “Luxury Escape” replied that “It was certainly a cheap escape”. We agree. The quality of accommodation, tour operators and our fellow travellers ensured we had an informative and enjoyable experience.

It was an economical introduction to a country with such a rich ancient history and feel that we have only just dipped our feet in the sand! We hope to visit again on another Luxury Escape.

And, if you are contemplating a visit to Egypt and would like to read more about our experiences and hints, you may find the following of interest:

Chaos in Cairo

Running the gauntlet in Edfu

12 things to know before visiting Egypt

The Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel

Author: Smita (Page 7 of 16)

The easiest way to visit a Croatian island

Our conclusion about Croatian islands

Like this:

When is the best time of the year to visit Tuscany?

Our conclusion