Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Author: Smita (Page 8 of 17)

A highlight in Bangkok most visitors miss

It is dark outside as we start our morning walk.

Expecting the city streets to be quiet so we can watch it awaken, we find it is anything but! Everyone has made a head start on us. The roads are jammed with traffic and pavements are busy with owners of micro-businesses staking their claim to a place on the footpath. Further ahead a group of young Buddhist monks stand patiently on a street corner hoping that passers-by will fill their vessels with alms.

We negotiate the footpath avoiding the temptation to stop and look. There will be plenty of time later in the day. For now, we are headed to the largest green space in Bangkok, Lumpini Park.

Lumpini Park

Lumpini Park is where Bangkok’s city folk go for a respite from the hustle and bustle that is going on beyond its boundaries. There are 57 hectares to explore with lots of greenery, open spaces and shaded areas off the paths.

Early morning is the best time to visit, not only because it is cooler but also because it is the best time to capture the essence of what the park means to the people of Bangkok.

Group activities in Lumpini Park

By the time we arrive daylight has just broken and the paths around the park are already full with runners, joggers, fast and slow walkers while on the manicured lawns, various forms of tai chi are being performed by groups of all ages. Elsewhere, yoga mats are spread out with yogis practising their poses. We notice there are plenty of shaded seating areas. Most are full of groups of people.  Some have elderly women spreading breakfast out on tables to share while they have a natter and under others, groups are practising their musical instruments. We come across a patch filled with outdoor fitness equipment being very well used.

Tai chi

There were groups of people practising the graceful art of Tai Chi throughout the Park

Giant lizards in the Park

We take our time meandering through the park and around the lake. As a part of the path nears the lakeside we are surprised by several giant lizards in the water and parading about on the lawns. They look very much like Komodo dragons. The locals seem unperturbed by their presence and go about their business so we feel safe but are mindful about keeping our distance though just in case they are dangerous. We find out later that these are Monitor lizards and completely harmless unless they feel threatened. They are part of the ecosystem that keeps the park free of dead fish and birds.

Monitor lizards in Lumpini Park

Monitor lizards in Lumpini Park

Fitness in the Park

The Park holds something for everyone. We come across seniors club; a dedicated building where the elderly can gather for formal activities, in a far corner a ball-room dance class is in session with a group of middle-aged couples taking part. Further on, we come across a dilapidated looking outdoor gym with a hotch-potch of rusty gym equipment. It looks abandoned and we wonder if anyone uses it. We find it being well-used when we walk past on another day.

Open air gym in Lumpini Park

The open-air gym in Lumpini Park

As we near the end of our circuit we hear music pumping from loudspeakers and arrive at the park entrance to see the iconic Lumpini Park aerobics class in full swing. At least sixty people of all ages and fitness levels are following the moves of the energetic instructor on stage. The class is free and held every morning and evening. It’s worth joining in for the fun, laughter and fitness or simply stop to watch the fun.

Daily aerobic classes in Lumpini Park

The aerobic classes looked like fun

Go to Lumpini Park at any time of the day and you will find yourself amongst locals. The Park loses many of its users by 8am if you prefer to visit at a quieter time. However, if like us, you prefer to watch a city come to life, arrive as dawn breaks. Be entertained, get your daily dose of exercise and enjoy the Park with the locals.

Lumpini park

A hidden gem in London you must visit

Julia, our London greeter meets us outside the Welcome Centre at the Tower of London. After a couple of days retracing our path around London’s popular tourist spots, we are looking forward to seeing a little of the hidden London reserved for those who dare to look for more.

St Katharine Dock

Along the Thames end of the Tower following the path around the corner, there is our first surprise: a marina full of all types of sailing vessels encircled by a mixture of old and new buildings. Just minutes from central London and we feel like we are in a completely different world.

Newer sailing vessels line up behind an older ship and we watch as the shipmaster shouts instructions to his shipmates as he carefully guides his charge through the lock into the River Thames.

After walking back and forth over small footbridges around the marina we arrive at the pride and joy of the marina. The Gloriana is the British Royal barge commissioned for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. The regal rowing barge is based at the Dock and kept in pristine working order ready to make an appearance on the river at the drop of a hat. And, in the summer months, Gloriana sometimes sails up and down the Thames albeit powered by its onboard motors.

The Royal rowing barge, Gloriana
The Royal rowing barge, Gloriana

Wapping

Further along from the Dock, we pass stately Georgian and Edwardian homes sitting on the banks of River then enter the narrower paths. This is Wapping.

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A passageway leads us to the old stairs leading down to the River at the rear of the Town of Ramsgate pub, one of the oldest pubs in London. Julia recounts stories from the past of east London while we sit on the stairs to admire the views up, down and across the River.

Town of Ramsgate Pub by the Old Stairs, Wapping

Wapping was once a pretty rough part of town. This is where ships arrived from all parts of the world to unload their cargo and thieves and petty criminals hung hoping for a bit of luck. Most were unlucky ending up at the gallows for their efforts. The area is known for its Execution Dock, where these thieves and criminals along with mutineers and pirates met their end. One of the most famous in history is Scottish Captain William Kidd, whose life and times are now portrayed in literature, film and music.

There is more to see. Walking further along, there are memories of the past all around us that we would not have noticed had our attention not been drawn to them. Many of the old warehouses which used to store tobacco, rice and wine have now been converted into upmarket apartments and houses or eating establishments and cafes. Their facades still hold remnants of their historic past lives.

St Johns Old School with its two distinctive statues standing above the doorways indicating separate entrances into the school for boys and girls stands opposite the old St John’s Churchyard. The school building dates back to the mid-1700s. Little remains of the churchyard today. Instead, it has given way to become a leafy garden with park benches on which to sit and appreciate the school building. The building is no longer used for the purpose it was built for. It is now a private residence and the two statues are replicas with the originals stored safely away.

The statues above the entrance of Old St John School

Wapping was and is home to many old pubs and one of them, Turner’s Old Star, has a story behind it. The pub was originally two homes inherited by the artist Joseph William Turner (William Turner). He converted them into a tavern named The Old Star and ensconced one of his mistresses in there to run it. To ensure his anonymity he went as far as assuming her surname “Booth” and soon became known in the area as “Puggy Booth” because of his short height and plumpness. The “Old Star” was refurbished in 1987 and renamed “Turner’s Old Star” in Turner’s honour.

A beautiful stroll along the Ornamental Canal leads us back to where it all started past the picturesque Dickens Inn to finally stop at the two elephants which stand on the pillars of the gate outside the only original warehouse standing in St Katharine Dock, Ivory House and convey our gratitude and say our goodbyes to Julia.

The Dickens Inn, St Katharine Dock

We turn back to re-enter the Dock. It’s lunchtime and there are a myriad of cafes, restaurants and pubs to choose from.

 

A Luxury Escape to Egypt

The Pyramids of Giza

The Pyramids of Giza and The Sphinx

Is Egypt a safe place to visit? Events of recent years ensured the country was not high on our list of countries to visit independently. A chance sighting of a newspaper advertisement spiked our interest and ultimately gave us an opportunity we had not previously considered.

We jumped at the chance and booked “The Sights of Egypt”: A 12 day Tour with a Nile River Cruise and International flights, a small group tour offered by Luxury Escapes.

The booking experience

Luxury Escapes teams with other travel brands and partners to negotiate and provide value-driven holiday packages. The online booking process was simple and easy to navigate providing comprehensive detail about the tour, availability, pricing, and information on inclusions and exclusions. However, this particular package not a last-minute special. To ensure our spaces were reserved, we booked and paid nine months in advance. Note: There is a “Book Now, Pay Later” option available for some packages.

A confirmation email was received with a follow-up email requesting passenger information from the booking agent. All further dealings related to our travel arrangements were conducted with Destination International Holidays, the booking agent responsible for our tour. We were provided with an opportunity to specify our preferred airline or a partner airline for flights and to upgrade our hotel accommodation at additional rates.

There was little interaction with Destination International Holidays. Having received no further communication after our initial booking correspondence, we phoned them a couple of months prior to make sure our travel was scheduled. They confirmed and assured us that we would receive travel information closer to our travel time.

Destination International forwarded travel documentation, a detailed itinerary with supporting information and an opportunity to add and pay for additional visits/tours (prices were cheaper than paying on site a few weeks prior to our departure.

The tour experience

Our small group tour catered for up to 16 people. We were very lucky to have only 8 people in our group. And, within a couple of days, we discovered that we were among like-minded people which added, for us, a new dimension to travelling on a tour.

We enjoy researching our destinations when travelling independently, educating ourselves on the local history and culture. On this tour, we were assigned not just a tour guide but a historian. Amir, who provided in-depth historical background behind all the sights, towns and cities we visited. In fact, he was a little annoyed whenever we got caught up with taking photos instead of listening to his commentary.

Instead of finding our own way from the airport to our accommodation, we were treated to exemplary service by being greeted at the airport, guided through the visa procedure and taken to our transport to our hotel and checked in.

Of course, we did not have to queue for admittance to the major sights and attractions.

Armed with advice from Amir, there was ample free time throughout the tour to explore cities independently and to join up for visits to the main sights. We were grateful to have the benefit of Amir’s expertise as he provided historical commentary and background throughout our visits to major sites. If we had been travelling independently, we would not have appreciated the historical significance behind so many of the places we visited.

The accommodation

We decided to take the premium accommodation option and were glad we did. Our accommodation in Cairo at the five-star Ramses Hilton right in the centre of Cairo. It provided us with an opportunity to explore life in central Cairo on our own, taste local cuisine and wander the back streets to see the real Cairo and its inhabitants.

Our accommodation in Alexandria was the historic Steigenberger Cecil Hotel. Situated on the scenic waterfront, we were treated with beautiful views of the Mediterranean, a walkway along the waterfront and markets and shops right outside the hotel door.

Our home for seven nights’ cruise was Princess Sarah II. While not as elegant as a few of the other upmarket riverboats we came across cruising the Nile, it was typical of many others plying up and down the River Nile. Our room was large and comfortable with a seating area allowing us to relax and watch life on the River. The top deck was well equipped with a swimming pool (although it was a little cool to swim in March), plenty of sunbeds and undercover seating to sit and watch the captivating scenery pass by. It was also the best place to watch the riverboat manoeuvre through the lock system and the daring hawkers attach their small sailing crafts to our riverboat to barter their wares to us.

The grand staircase of the Princess Sarah II

The grand staircase of the Princess Sarah II

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Hawkers touting their wares on the River Nile

The highlights

The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, Cairo – The last remaining of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Pyramids are much bigger than we imagined and the Sphinx was much smaller than we had envisaged. We were grateful for having access to an Egyptologist who provided us with historical background about the Pyramids and how they were built; and guidance about which underground burial chambers we should climb down into.

The Karnak Temple of Amun, Luxor – This impressive temple complex was our introduction to the many temples in Egypt and one of the largest religious complexes in the world. Entering through the Avenue of Rams is spectacular as we catch sight of the huge pillars and obelisks. Walking among the magnificent columns of the Hypostyle Hall and learning about the meanings behind the hieroglyphics on each pillar was a highlight.

The Avenue of the Rams

The Avenue of the Rams

The Valley of the Kings, Luxor – Our visit commences early so we are treated to visiting the Valley when it is relatively empty. The three tombs we visit are well preserved and the inscriptions and vivid drawings on the walls take the breath away. Words cannot describe thousands of years of history and culture hidden in these underground treasures. Reliefs, frescoes and hieroglyphics line the walls into the main tomb areas and antechambers.

Sobek Temple, Kom Ombo – Our twilight visit to the Sobek Temple commenced with docking in Kom Ombo with a view of this beautiful hilltop temple. The temple precinct was teaming with both local and foreign tourists but a pleasant stop nonetheless. We enjoyed a little spare time following the temple visit wandering through the market stalls which lined the riverside dock.

The Great Temple of Ramses, Abu Simbel – Definitely worth rising at 3:30am for the 230km early morning drive on the desert sand road to the temple site on the banks of Lake Nasser. We are distracted by the beauty of the Lake as we walk toward the temple from the behind, totally oblivious of the enormity of what we are about to see. Turning the corner, four enormous statues of Ramses II appear before us sitting majestically at the entrance. Carved out of a mountain in 1264 BC, the whole complex was covered by shifting desert sands and its magnificence lost to the world until a Swiss explorer discovered it by chance in 1813 when he noticed the heads of the statues showing above the sand. Slowly uncovered, the temple complex was shifted 200 metres from its original position to higher ground under a large rescue mission involving more than 30 countries when the area was flooded to create the High Dam.

The verdict

The small group tour was a good way to undertake our first visit to Egypt. The country has undergone much upheaval since 2011 and this has affected tourism in the country. This is especially noticeable along the River Nile with many riverboats still lying idle along the banks. For us, this was an advantage. There were still many tourists about, mostly undertaking organised tours, although not as many as in the past or as is now expected as confidence in safety grows and travellers return to see the magnificence of Egypt’s ancient history.

As is usual on a bus tour, we were obliged to visit local craft and art stores in nearly every city we visited. There was no coercion by the store owners or tour directors to purchase.

For independent travellers such as ourselves used to straying away from the main tourist sights to explore, we found there was sufficient time available for us to go off and explore. The tour operators provided advice on how to conduct ourselves in this predominantly Muslim country, prepared us for the onslaught of hawkers whenever we stepped out on our own and gave general advice on staying safe. As in any country we visit, we were sensible about our safety and felt comfortable to move about on our own. However, for comfort and to enjoy the experience, we would advise female travellers to be accompanied or go out in a group.

Our conclusion: One of our fellow travellers when we asked him about what he thought about our “Luxury Escape” replied that “It was certainly a cheap escape”. We agree. The quality of accommodation, tour operators and our fellow travellers ensured we had an informative and enjoyable experience.

It was an economical introduction to a country with such a rich ancient history and feel that we have only just dipped our feet in the sand! We hope to visit again on another Luxury Escape.

And, if you are contemplating a visit to Egypt and would like to read more about our experiences and hints, you may find the following of interest:

Chaos in Cairo

Running the gauntlet in Edfu

12 things to know before visiting Egypt

Abu Simbel

The Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel

Dachau: A day trip from Munich

Teenage school children are wandering around the open grounds with their teachers. We are surprised to see them. Our initial feelings are that this is not a place for young adults.

After a few days exploring the beautiful Bavarian capital, Munich, we are almost ready to travel further north. A day trip is planned combined with collecting our car.

The Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site is a mere 25 kilometres from Munich and easily accessible by train or car and after visiting some of the more popular sights in Munich over the last few days, there is no excuse not to make the trip.

A feeling of trepidation and unease describes our mood on the short journey there. This is our first visit to a former Nazi concentration camp. We have no idea what to expect or how we will react.

Entrance to Dachau is free and there is the opportunity to take one of the two daily tours in English or hire an audio guide at a small cost. We opt to self-guide.

The entrance to the camp is a short walk from the Visitor Centre. Over the metal gate is an inscription “Arbeit Macht Frei” which translates to “Work makes you free”. We walk through the same gate through which thousands of prisoners entered.

The Dachau Concentration Camp holds a special significance in history. This was the Nazi regime’s first concentration camp and the prototype for subsequent camps. Established in March 1933 a few weeks after Adolf Hitler was appointed Chancellor of Germany, the camp was initially built to house political activists but evolved into a death camp holding Jews, artists and intellectuals, physically and mentally handicapped, and homosexuals, who Hitler thought were unfit for his new Germany.

The one remaining dormitory left on the site. All remaining dormitories were razed to commemorate those who suffered and died at the behest of the Nazi regime

Designed to house 6,000 people, the camp was used to house over 65,000 at the time of liberation at the end of April 1945. The camp was the longest-running of all the concentration camps with over 200,000 people imprisoned in the concentration camp and its subcamps over its 12-year existence.

While the gas chamber was never used, the crematorium was well used; malnutrition, disease, overwork and execution claimed one out of five prisoners, and some prisoners were subjected to brutal medical experiments.

Crematorium at Dachau concentration camp

Today, the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site is a place of remembrance. Visitors can freely walk around the walled grounds, visit the remaining dormitory and the museum which provides a historical chronology of events. There are several commemorative sites dedicated to different religions dotted around the grounds. We visit each and the museum which provides a detailed and graphic chronology of events within the camp walls.

The museum provides a graphic history of events

Tree-lined avenue to one of the Remembrance sites

The memorial site is a place of education. For those interested to learn more, the Education Department of the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site offers seminars and special guided tours dedicated to more isolated topics and offers guided tours for school classes.

Departing through the gate that many never had a chance to do, we agree this has been a sombre and sobering experience.

Should the schoolchildren have been visiting? On reflection we agree, to prevent a reoccurrence of this nature, this is the best place for a reminder and a history lesson on the atrocities of war.

Top 10 things you must do in Munich

  1. Find a spot in front of the New Town Hall in Marienplatz, Munich’s famous medieval central square and fall under the spell of the glockenspiel when it comes to life two to three times a day (depending on the season). Prepare to be mesmerised as life-size mechanical figures re-enact moments in Bavarian history to the music of the bells in the tower.
  2. Spend Sunday afternoon at Munich’s oldest beer garden, Augustiner Keller in Hackerbrucke. Enjoy an afternoon relaxing over a local beer and a meal while indulging in a little people (there will be plenty) watching. Sunday is a great time to go as families congregate under the chestnut trees to while away a few hours socialising while children amuse themselves in the playground.
  3. Take yourself away from the hum of central Munich to walk along the shady pathways in Luitpold Park. Located in Schwabing the park is popular with locals and has many cycling and walking trails. There are wonderful views of the city from the viewpoint on Luitpold Hill and on a clear day, you will be treated to a glimpse of the Alps.
  4. Sample fresh Bavarian food over lunch at the Viktualienmarkt in the heart of Munich. Then, take a stroll to admire the stalls brimming with local delicacies and products.

    Viktualienmarkt, Munich

    Viktualienmarkt, the central marketplace

  5. Book a morning or afternoon tour with a local Global Greeter. We spent an informative afternoon with Wolfgang, our greeter who showed us around his city. We had already walked past or visited most of the sites. However, he brought our attention to the detail and told us stories behind them providing a whole new insight into this wonderful city.
  6. Take an early morning walk up and down Ludwigstrasse, Munich’s most regal streets. The early morning light gives the magnificent buildings and the Siegestor, the triumphal arch even more grandeur.

    Segeistor, Munich

    The triumphal arch of Munich, the Sisgestor

  7. Make a day trip to Dachau to visit the concentration camp memorial. Only a few kilometres from Munich and easily accessible by public transport, there is no excuse not to make a visit.
  8. Take a walk around the Olympia Park built for the 1972 Olympic Games, pay a visit to the “Walk of Stars” to see if your favourite athlete has left a handprint, then walk a little further on to the BMW Welt and Museum to spend the day at the showroom. Be impressed and inspired inspecting and sitting in the huge range of cars on show in an equally impressive building.

    Olympia Park, Munich

    Olympia Park,, 1972 Olympic Park site

  9. Spend an afternoon at Schloss Nymphenburg. Situated on the outskirts of Munich city, the Baroque castle was built as a summer residence for the Bavarian rulers. On a much smaller scale, the palace and grounds resemble that of the Palace of Versailles in France.
  10. Spend the day wandering in the grounds of the beautiful Englischer Garten, one of largest city parks in the world. Stop lakeside for lunch at the Seehaus beer garden then watch the keen surfers who are out summer and winter in Eisbach, a little channel of the Isar River in the park.20180702_12245920180703_123707
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