All good things must come to an end. After the perfect combination of rest, relaxation and exploring in northern Queensland, the return trip had to be made. Our drive south was not going to be boring, there was more to see in our backyard. If you haven’t read about our journey north, read Part One for our recommendations on places to visit on the way north first, and you will have everything you need to discover beautiful Queensland, Australia.
Beautiful Mission Beach
Having heard so much about Mission Beach’s raw beauty, we were looking forward to our stay. The small township of Mission Beach on the Cassowary Coast is a three hour drive from Port Douglas and renowned for two things.
Its close proximity to the Great Barrier Reef.
Its 14km of palm lined golden sand beach.
There are no glitzy bars, cafes and restaurants or walking promenades in Mission Beach. The small village atmosphere makes it the perfect getaway from simply everything! Be prepared to slow down right down and be captivated by its natural beauty. On our late afternoon walk we were surprised to find that we had the whole beach almost to ourselves sharing it with a sole walker we could just spot in the distance. Stopping to watch a pod of whales playing in the waters just off the shore was a delight. There are few places where you can have kilometres of golden sand all to yourself!
Golden sand for kilometres at Mission Beach
Dunk Island is a short water taxi ride away to take advantage of the walking trails or take the scenic drive along the coast road to tiny settlement of Bingil Bay and pop into Bingil Bay Café for lunch or dinner.
Discover Airlie Beach
Airlie Beach is the gateway to the idyllic Whitsunday Islands and the Great Barrier Reef. The town and its own beauty are often overlooked by tourists using it only as a base or launching point to the islands. We decided avoid the islands and stay in Airlie Beach to appreciate this laid back town.
We had found the township bustling with backpackers and holidaymakers on a previous visit. Not this time! The streets were deserted because of travel restrictions. With school holidays due to start we hoped that vacationers would make their way to the area. It’s a great place to take the family. Note that most beaches are out of bounds from November to May because the waters are full of box jellyfish. Their sting can be life-threatening. To counter this, one of Airlie Beach’s attractions is the large family friendly beach side lagoon area so you swim safely while enjoying the gorgeous views.
The spectacular water views along Bicentennial Coastal Walkway, Airlie Beach
By now you’ve guessed that we love to walk! There are a number of hiking trails to choose from in the area including some catering for the bushwalker in the Conway National Our favourite is the Bicentennial Coastal Walkway. The walk, for us, started from our accommodation at the Mantra Boathouse at the marina just outside of the town centre. Officially starting at the Lagoon, the 4 kilometre walkway meanders mostly along the water’s edge as far as Cannonvale Beach showcasing beautiful ocean views. Take a brisk morning walk or a more leisurely evening stroll pausing for a cocktail or meal at the bars and restaurants at Abell Point.
Views along the Bicentennial Coastal Walkway
For another viewpoint, take the short drive to Coral Point at Shute Harbour for views out over the Whitsunday Passage and the islands. And, if you’re up for it, walk up to the lookout at Mount Rooper for more spectacular views.
Views over Shute Harbour passage
The hidden gems of Gladstone
A few days of rest and recreation in Airlie Beach prepared us for the final days of our road trip.
The road into Gladstone portrayed the town’s main purpose. Home to Queensland’s largest multi-commodity port, the landscape was littered with overhead and on-ground rail tracks for shunting goods to the port.
The town isn’t to be underestimated. It provides easy access to the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, and to Heron and Wilson Islands or visitors can take the short ferry ride just off shore to Curtis Island to explore a combination of the lush National Park and the pristine beaches.
Beautiful views from Auckland Hill Lookout, Gladstone
Wanting to stay on dry land? The town offers a small heritage walk. There are few historic buildings in the town but the centre is full of its own unique character with a small heritage walk to follow. We wandered around the backstreets on the outskirts of the town centre finding beautiful Queenslander homes with veranda views over the port. Our meandering eventually found us at Auckland Point Lookout which gives a panorama of the harbour and beyond. Be sure to look up at the wall by the cafe for a little inspiration.
Steps leading down from the Lookout brought us to the East Shores Precinct. The parklands have a waterpark, picnic and barbeque areas, and a waterfront boardwalk. An impressive feature of the precinct is how well the site’s original industrial heritage has been incorporated into the waterfront. Signage along the boardwalk gives a detailed guide of the area’s previous function and history.
The historic past is well displayed at Gladstone’s East Coast Shores Precinct
Looking for more to see around the Gladstone region? The towns of Tannum Sands, Agnes Waters, Seventeen Seventy are all great places to explore and only a short drive away.
Our recommendations
We punctuated the six hour drive from Airlie Beach to Gladstone with a stopover for lunch in Rockhampton. With more time we agree that we would have enjoyed staying a few days in the city. The heart of the city centre boasts wide and the leafy streets with beautiful old buildings. A delight to stroll along!
The beautiful architecture in centre of Rockhampton
Where we stayed
Castaways Resort and Spa at Mission Beach boasts rooms and apartments from where you can step into beautiful gardens with direct access to the 14 kilometre beach. Quiet and secluded but right in the centre of Mission Beach, Castaways is a wonderful place to slow down pace and get away from it all.
Absolute beachfront. Our stay at Castaways Resort.
The Mantra Boathouse Apartments in Airlie Beach was perfect for our midway stay. All apartments have balconies with spectacular views over the marina and beyond to the Coral Sea. The apartments are a short walking distance from town but far away enough to make it feel like we were in our own little world. We were content to while away our time reading and getting takeout for dinner to enjoy on the balcony between our sightseeing jaunts around the vicinity.
Views from our balcony at Mantra Boathouse, Airlie Beach
Not far from the centre of Gladstone, we stayed at the Mercure Gladstone. Our hotel room was well furnished with a private balcony and the hotel is conveniently attached to the local sports club where we had breakfast and enjoyed pre-dinner drinks. Make sure you have a look at their beautiful art corner featuring local artists.
Where we ate
Mission Beach – We dined at Bibesia restaurant at the Castaways Resort. The staff were friendly and attentive offering us a seafront table. The menu offers fresh local produce.
Gladstone – The Dock at East Shores is a wonderful spot for a relaxed dinner – delicious seasonal food combined with spectacular night-time port views make it a “must do” when you visit this down to earth town.
Everything you need to discover beautiful Queensland!
2020 became the year of no International travel. Restrictions changed our original travel plans. “That’s okay, we’ll see more of our country. Driving holidays are the best way to see your backyard”, we thought.
It was not long before our plans had to change again. No interstate travel either! Instead of an interstate road trip, we decided our holidays were not only going to be shorter this year, but we were also going to have to be satisfied with travelling within our backyard. Lucky we have a huge backyard!
Queensland is a large state with much natural beauty. It’s home to the Great Barrier Reef, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, an unspoilt coastline and luscious rainforests. Visitors from the rest of Australia and overseas come to marvel at the state’s beautiful offerings.
“You’re driving to Port Douglas?”. Some were astounded that we would choose to drive when it is easier to fly.
“The inland route or coastal?”, was the next question. Driving through Queensland’s interior would be a good experience, however, we are drawn to the coastal road enabling us to drive shorter distances and stopovers in both smaller and larger towns.
Contrary to its name, the Pacific Coast Highway (also known as the A1 or Bruce Highway) doesn’t run entirely along the coastline. The road runs a little inland most of the way between sugar cane and banana plantations, mango orchards and flat lands nipping alongside the sea every now and then.
We found many spectacular spots (often by chance), and stayed mostly in the main centres.
Bargara
A small seaside settlement a short distance from Bundaberg, Bargara is 375 kilometres from Brisbane and the perfect first overnight stop.
With a chance to experience the best of both worlds, we arrived with plenty of time to stroll along the banks of the Burnett River and the deserted streets of Bundaberg. Known for its famous rum and ginger beer, tours are available at both distillers. We opted to absorb the atmosphere and architecture of the city by walking around the town before driving to The Hummock lookout between Bundaberg and Bargara, overlooking the vast countryside which is the food bowl of Queensland.
Other highlights are found on our walk the next morning. The Coral Coast Pathway leads along the Esplanade to the swimming basin built by indentured Kanaka labourers who worked on the sugar cane farms from 1863 to the early 1900s, then further on the Mon Repos trail which is home to the largest concentration of nesting turtles on the east coast of Australia. A “Good morning” by everyone we passed on the path was a sign of how welcoming the community here is to visitors.
One of the small coves along the Bargara seafront
Yeppoon
On the Capricorn Coast, Yeppoon boasts an esplanade lined with chic boutiques and beaches with great views of nearby Keppel Island. The quiet laidback atmosphere attracts weekenders from nearby Rockhampton and travellers like us from further afield.
Preferring to be more active than sitting on the beach, we were spoilt for choice with a number of walks in Byford National Park.
We spent an afternoon walking up the Double Head Track to two lookouts with breathtaking views over Rosslyn Bay Harbour, the Keppel Islands and Byfield National Park. While the views are enough of a drawcard, the track itself is a highlight taking walkers along paths lined with fig trees and fauna which change to open grasslands leading to the remnants of a volcano. The trail is steep in parts and takes 40-60 minutes depending on fitness level and the paths are very well laid. If you’re a photographer, the walk is definitely worth the effort.
Splendid views from Bluff Head in Yeppoon
Another walk we had hoped to do was the Bluff Point Walking Track. This shorter trail promised views out to the hinterland, along the coastline and the Keppel Bay Islands. The morning sky was grey as we followed the route towards what we thought was the entry point only to find ourselves amidst a new housing development on the rise. Despite the fantastic views, the clouds were darkening so we decided to turn back. Our timing was not perfect, the skies opened up and we got drenched on the way back to the foreshore. Almost on queue, the sun came out as we sat down for breakfast.
Mackay
The drive to Mackay was flanked by sugar cane fields and not much else so the highlight was arriving in the city in time for lunch. There are few people out on the streets and many shops are closed. We’re unsure if this is normal!
We don’t waste time and are off to find the Botanic Gardens from where we connect to the Bluewater Trail. Twenty kilometres of cycling and walking tracks meander along the Pioneer River through riverside wetlands, along the environmental walk past some of the city’s main attractions. A number of art installations can be found on the way to the endpoint at Bluewater Lagoon water park just minutes from the city centre.
The nature walk and cycleway in Mackay
Townsville
Our early arrival gives us plenty of time to get a feel for the coastal scene. Castle Hill is Townsville’s gem, providing visitors and locals alike with wonderful vistas over the city. Access to Castle Hill was only minutes away from our accommodation, and yes, we could have walked up. With no dedicated walking trail to the top and our priority to take an oceanfront walk later, we drove up and walked from lookout to lookout to remind us of how much more there was to this city.
Drive or walk up Castle Hill for expansive views across Townsville’s coastline
The real walk is along The Strand, up to Kissing Point and Jezzine Park and Barracks. The Strand is a relaxed walking and bicycling path along the foreshore and many locals are out for their evening walks. Even in the gusty conditions, it’s great to see so many people enjoying the facilities. Families are sheltering strategically with their takeaway fish and chips, couples are strolling with their prams, and runners too are out in force.
Jezzine Park and Barracks sit on and around the lookout at the end of the Strand boardwalk and are an important part of Townville’s history. It is a precinct created to commemorate the city’s military and Aboriginal heritage and worthy of a visit.
Jezzine Barracks Park
In the blustery conditions, we stop to watch a lone kayaker bravely try to get himself upright in the water before admitting defeat and returning to the shore. Likewise, we battle the wind back to our apartment to enjoy the views from the comfort of our sheltered balcony.
Cairns
The scenery changes. Everything is green. Sugar cane crops slowly give way to hillsides covered in lush rainforests.
A light drizzle that’s accompanied us into the city disappears after we have checked into our accommodation and we make the most of an afternoon walk along the esplanade discussing plans for our next couple of days in the city detouring through the Night Markets on the way back.
The varying scenery you’ll find along the esplanade in Cairns
A day in the Atherton Tablelands
The next morning dawns bright and sunny, perfect for our drive into the hinterland.
We’re headed over the range to Mareeba, a small rural town in the Atherton Tablelands region. The area is known as the food bowl of the tropics and produces 70% of Australia’s coffee crop and beautiful fruit wine.
About 45 minutes easy drive from Cairns we divert for a walk to Barron Falls. The pretty rainforest canopy trail ends at a lookout to the waterfalls. It’s springtime and the water trickles over the edge at the moment and will become a spectacular torrent in the wet season.
Beautiful Barron Falls
Back on the Kennedy Highway, we drive past mango orchards, fruit farms, and tea and coffee plantations towards Mareeba. We’re disappointed to find Jacques Coffee plantation is closed (a result of the decline in tourism from the pandemic). We had hoped to take a tour.
We carry on to the next best option. Coffee Works has a number of small outlets throughout northern Queensland but Mareeba was where it all began. In what can be best described as a rustic shed a couple of minutes out of Mareeba town centre, a visit to this boutique roaster is a delight for the senses. Bins containing an array of coffee beans line the entrance to the gift and antique store. Further inside is a chocolaterie where up to 50 different chocolates are made. Ready to taste their signature coffee, we order and are kindly treated to a complimentary tasting of their divine chocolate and coffee liqueurs.
Inside Coffee Works gift store at Mareeba
There is one more stop to make on the leisurely drive back to Cairns. de Brueys is a boutique winery a few kilometres out of Mareeba. Set among mango orchards and surrounded by nature, de Brueys specialise in tropical fruit wines and ports. A visit to their cellar door ensures we leave with a bottle of one of their signature lychee wines. A fruitful day in the Tablelands.
A day trip to Fitzroy Island
Fitzroy Island is larger but quieter than our other option, Green Island. Green Island has more to offer tourists and family groups with plenty of shops, cafes and tours. We have been there before as a family. Fitzroy Island, however, is the better choice if you’re looking to share the shoreline and tracks with fewer people and not travel too far from Cairns.
Crystal clear waters greet our arrival as we disembark the ferry in front of Fitzroy Resort. People are snorkelling and relaxing beachside. Our main aim of this visit is to walk to the summit so we start up straight away. The track is initially through the lush rain forest which slowly transforms into a rocky but well-laid out path uphill. We are amazed to meet only one other person on the trail. She is on the way back down. The climb up is relatively easy but we anticipate a slower trip down because of the rocky landscape.
The captivating views from the walking trail to the summit on Fitzroy Island
Reaching the summit we are delighted to find only two other people at the lookout. Once they leave we are left to enjoy the expansive views on our own. It is truly spectacular!
As we are reluctantly preparing to make our descent, another couple appears. They tell us that we can take descend via another route with a stop at the old lighthouse. The walk is narrower and steeper in some places and the reward is a break at the lighthouse to enjoy the wonderful views out to sea before taking the steep, but paved trek down to the beach.
There’s more to see beachside. Further scrambling for about 15 minutes along a track and over boulders takes us to the highlight of Fitzroy Island. Nudey Beach is a small stretch of white sand where the clear waters gently lap the shoreline. Secluded and quiet it is the perfect place to swim and appreciate the views of Cairns hinterland. We, however, like the few others who have ventured here, do not swim. It is a little windy and too cold for us. It’s only spring!
The golden sand and crystal clear waters at Nudey Beach
Port Douglas
Our Saturday morning starts with joining walkers and family groups along the esplanade and at Rusty’s Market in Cairns. The market is a feast for the eyes with stalls full of tropical fruit and fresh vegetables and we indulge in buying some Mareeba red pawpaw.
By lunchtime, we are in Port Douglas having driven along one of the most amazing stretches of our road trip hugging the coastline.
We’re staying at Peppers Beach Club, metres from the hub of this town, Macrossan Street. Quiet and laidback, it’s the perfect place for a little rest and relaxation before we embark on our return journey to Brisbane.
The highlight of Port Douglas is Four Mile Beach, a long stretch of white sand beach which is actually four kilometres long. One of the best places to appreciate it is from above at the summit on Flagstaff Hill. Our favourite view is from partway up the stairway to the top. From Flagstaff Hill, you can go back down and carry on along the one-and-a-half-kilometre walking trail linking to Rex Smeal Park. The trail provides sweeping views of the Coral Sea. We complete our walk to end up in the middle of the Sunday markets, a pleasant way to spend an hour or two wandering through the stalls before walking a little further to the marina area.
Spectacular Four Mile Beach
A short 20-minute drive from Port Douglas is the lush Daintree Rainforest. The best way to experience it is by taking a walk in it at Mosman Gorge. We enjoyed its beauty with a self-guided walk along the popular circuit trail. For a more informed visit, take advantage of the guided tours. Whichever way, it is a must-do. Enjoy walking under the canopy of the rainforest under the eye of the surrounding mountains stopping at the waterfalls along the way. A great way to spend an afternoon.
One of the beautiful rainforest walking trails in Mosman Gorge
Our recommendations
Some of our favourite places to break up the drive
Many small spots captured our attention as we drove and were perfect for short driving breaks. We were delighted at finding so many! Following are just some of our recommendations.
Cooroy Not far on our way out of Brisbane, we hit a traffic jam which worked in our favour. It allowed us to detour off the motorway for a stop in Cooroy to avoid sitting in traffic. We arrived during the mid-morning hustle and bustle to find charming old buildings some of which have been restored as interactive historical education spaces. We wandered through the old butter factory art centre and will return for a day trip to explore the heritage trail and other attractions nearby.
The old butter factory in Cooroy has been converted into an arts centre promoting local artists
Seventeen Seventy/Agnes Waters 1770 was the second place Captain James Cook landed on after Sydney’s Botany Bay. Despite its historical significance, it is a pretty spot to veer off to on the way to Yeppoon from Bargara. There are plenty of lookout points with walk tracks or simply take a stroll along the foreshore.
Clairview A tiny seaside village just off the motorway, Clairview is a picturesque stop about 100 kilometres south of Mackay. The settlement sits alongside an unspoilt coastline of clear blue waters and golden sand and is also part of the dugong conservation area.
The unspoilt beach in the tiny settlement of Clairview was a treat to stop at
Bowen The highway is still surrounded by sugar cane on our way from Mackay to Townsville. Bowen (home of mangoes) is a small reprieve. It’s a quaint old town with wide streets, a courthouse and a town hall building reminding us of the past. A typical country pub with wide verandas seems to be inviting us to come in, sit back and enjoy a tipple. Instead, we drive on so we can explore Townsville.
Cardwell Cardwell is the only town directly on the coast between Townsville and Cairns. Sitting just off the main road and overlooking Hinchinbrook Island it was the perfect place for a short driving break. We stopped to admire the views, the long jetty and the sculptures lining the foreshore.
Trinity Beach Trinity Beach is a small seaside sanctuary just out of Cairns. We have stayed there on a previous visit and detoured for a short visit for old time’s sake. It is as we remember it, quiet and peaceful. We recommend staying there if you want to stay outside of the city but close enough to take advantage of what the city offers.
Palm Cove We broke our short drive to Port Douglas with a stop in charming Palm Cove to savour the Melaleuca trees lining the esplanade, the boutiques and eating spots and another spectacular waterfront.
The tree-lined promenade of Palm Cove
Our favourite places to eat
Mackay Looking for somewhere to sit down for a light lunch, we were enticed into a Coco Cubano. The cafe serves Cuban-inspired food in a setting reminiscent of what we imagine Havana to be. It transforms into a cocktail lounge for its evening clientele. And, for dinner, try Sorbellos for a generous and authentic Italian meal. They have an extensive wine cellar if you’re a wine connoisseur.
Cairns It’s lunchtime and the streets of Cairns are quiet. Normally bustling with tourists, we notice only a few people out on the city streets. Looking for somewhere to have lunch we stumble on what seems to be one of the city’s lunch hot spots, The Chambers. This cafe/restaurant is housed in a former bank building dating back to 1920. The outdoor areas, private rooms and main areas are stylish while maintaining the old charm. The menu is extensive and the food delicious and there’s a Friday lunchtime happy hour.
Our stay at the Pullman Reef Hotel Casino provided a generous credit towards a meal at Tamarind which is located within the casino complex. Elegant Asian fusion dining which lived up to its reputation. Stop by the bar located just inside to enjoy an aperitif before dinner and if you’re staying during the weekend, pop back for a nightcap and enjoy the live band.
Port Douglas For a casual meal to complement the relaxed atmosphere of the town, enjoy a Thai meal at Star of Siam. The restaurant offers an extensive menu of fresh food.
Our verdict
Northern Queensland relies heavily on national and international tourism and 2020 has been particularly taxing financially on the tourist and hospitality industry there so we were delighted to be able to contribute in a small way to keeping hotels and other accommodation providers, cafes, restaurants and tourist attractions afloat during a difficult time. Everyone in both industries we met on our journey was appreciative and went beyond expectations to make sure we had a wonderful experience.
Of course, after our 1,400km drive north, we did have to return home. Yes, there is more to see. We’ll cover that part of our road trip in another post soon.
Our aim is to inspire. If you enjoyed this post, please feel free to share:
A short distance from Piazza di Spagna and Rome’s bustling tourist district lies a sanctuary that few except locals know of. We think it’s worth taking the time to pay a visit to this free attraction in Rome.
Villa Borghese is a sprawling park on Pincio Hill. Covering over 80 hectares, there are a number of ways to enter the gardens. Our favourite is from the Spanish Steps, by turning left at the top in front of the Trinita dei Monti and walking up the gentle sloping pathway to the entrance.
Villa Borghese was established in the early 1600s when Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew to Pope Paul V decided to turn his city vineyard into Rome’s most extensively landscaped garden. Over years a number of attractions were added turning the Gardens into a small parcel of paradise in the middle of the city. The State acquired the Gardens from the Borghese family in the early 1900s and opened them for the public to enjoy.
We have visited the park over a number of visits and have still to complete our exploration. Some highlights we’ve discovered:
Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument
A non-descript monument to take note of as you enter via the sloping pathway from the top of the Spanish Steps. Look down over or walk down to the monument for a closer look.
The monument honours a small contingent of compatriots who fought in a campaign to liberate Rome from the rule of Pope Pius IX. Enrico led the small contingent suffering in the attack and the monument depicts Giovanni, his younger brother supporting his dying brother up the Spanish Steps. The names of the other volunteer fighters can be found on the monument.
Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument
Pincio Terrace
Walk further ahead once you enter the park and you’ll find one of the best photo spots in Rome. The terrace provides a commanding view of the domes and rooftops that make up Rome’s skyline and it’s the perfect place to do a little landmark spotting. It also gives you a birdseye view over Piazza del Popolo.
You can never have enough of looking out to the domes and rooftops of RomeWatch the comings and goings over Piazza del Popolo from the Pincio Terrace.
Temple of Aesculapius
The Temple of Aesculapius sits on a small island in the middle of an artificial lake not far from Pincio Terrace.
A serene spot in the park, the temple dedicated to the God of Medicine and built in 1785 is said to replicate an ancient temple originally situated on the River Tiber.
You can hire a row boat to lazily while away an afternoon on the lake.
The idyllic Temple of Aesculapius on the lake
The Water Clock
Looking for something quirky? Find the water clock (hydrochronometer) in the gardens not far from the Pincio. It was built for display at the Universal Exposition held in Paris in 1867 and brought back to be placed in a fountain in the Gardens in 1873. It still works.
The Water Clock hidden in the Villa Borghese Gardens
Galleria Borghese
Our favourite attraction in the park, Galleria Borghese was originally called Casa Nobile.
The Villa Borghese houses a number of museums within its grounds. The Galleria Borghese is the highlight and one of the world’s leading museums. While not large, it houses some of the finest artworks and sculptures from the 1500s to 1800s. Works by Bernini, Raphael and Carravaggio are housed in an intimate setting.
Tickets for a timeslot are required. A guarantee that you won’t be vying with other art enthusiasts to view the masterpieces. Book your tickets well in advance to avoid missing out on your preferred date and time. We can guarantee you will not be disappointed.
The inviting entrance to the Galleria Borghese museum
Other ways to enjoy the Gardens
Take a walk in the park
The shaded walking paths lined with busts, fountains, manicured gardens (some reflecting an old English style), and rotundas weren’t opened to the public until the early 1900s. Today, you can stroll through the park exploring all its nooks and crannies to find the secret gardens spotted throughout the park.
Visit the zoo
The Villa Borghese Gardens is also home to the Bioparco di Roma Zoo which is a wonderful way to break away from the historical sites and entertain children if you are travelling as a family. When you’re finished visiting the Bioparco, drop by to watch the puppetry show at the Teatro Dei Burattani San Carlino. With puppet theatre not so common these days, it will give the children a special experience to treasure.
Stop by the equestrian arena
If you like watching equestrian events, and you’re visiting Rome in May, stop by the Piazza di Siena to watch the International Horse Show, one of the most well-known horseriding events in Italy. The event is free and open to the public.
Go to the theatre or watch a movie
If you are not excited by horse events and prefer something with a hint of culture then take in a Shakespearian play at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre. Emulating the famous Globe Theatre in London, it’s the only Elizabethan theatre in Italy.
Otherwise buy a ticket to one of the summer outdoor screenings of the Casa Del Cinema, an arthouse movie theatre.
Browse through another gallery, or two
The Borghese Gallery is just one of several galleries in the gardens. We are looking forward to visiting the 16th-century mansion, Villa Medici which houses the French Academy on our next visit to have a look inside its beautiful interior.
You can also visit the Museo Pietro Canonica which is dedicated to the work of artist Pietro Canonica or the Museo Carloi Bilotti which displays the large art collection of billionaire Carlo Bilotti
Cycle around the Gardens
If you’re not keen on walking around the gardens or are pressed for time, then an easy way to explore the sprawling gardens is to rent a bicycle. The park has a number of cycle rental vendors spotted around the park. A more novel way to see the sights around the gardens is to hire a quadricycle. The four-seater electric quadricycles are fun and a family-friendly way to enjoy an afternoon.
A picnic in the Borghese
After all the rushing from one monument to another, a great way to have a bit of downtime is to gather some goodies from the markets in the morning, pack a picnic lunch and find a shady spot in the Gardens to while away an hour or two.
Time out to exercise
Like to exercise? The park’s wide trails are the perfect place to take a run, jog or power walk. Or, roll out your yoga mat in one of the many secluded spots for the perfect start to your day in the Eternal City.
What better way to start the day in Rome than a jog along the trails in the Borghese Gardens
People watch
The perfect way to complete your visit to the Villa Borghese is to take a seat on the park bench (you might find one close to a street musician) and enjoy a little people-watching. The Park is a sanctuary for Romans to escape the chaos of their city. If you visit on a Sunday afternoon you’ll find family groups enjoying the many recreational activities or young and elderly couples taking a romantic passeggiata around the park.
The Villa Borghese is the perfect sanctuary in the heart of Rome
Our conclusion
These are just a few of the many activities offered in Villa Borghese. We have yet to explore more of the Gardens. We’ll definitely be spending time there on our next visit to Rome. We have been entranced by this haven in the city. It will take just one visit for you to love it too.
P.S. We’ll have more to say about the Galleria Borghese, our favourite art museum, in a dedicated post coming soon. Make sure you sign up to receive an email notification when we tell you about our favourite gallery in more detail. You’ll be as mesmerised as we were!
P.P.S. And, if you found this suggestion useful for your next visit to Rome, then you may like these posts:
“Have you been to the University?” asked our Greeter, Dino as he led us out of the San Bernadino alle Ossa church in Milan after having a look inside its unique side chapel filled with human bones. We had never visited the church despite it being just a short distance from our accommodation in central Milan, where we have stayed on past visits.
The answer to Dino’s question was “No”, even though like the church the University of Milan is only a short walk from the centre of Milan.
We’ve been fortunate to stay in many university towns during our travels albeit during the summer when many students have vacated the towns over the summer holiday period.
Universities in our home country are young so there is a sense of awe in visiting towns to be surrounded by jaw dropping architecture and to tread along streets where scholars have stridden for hundreds of year.
Some of our favourites (in no particular order):
Oxford University, Oxfordshire, England
We were fortunate to have one of our tribe live in this beautiful English city for a time so we had the opportunity to see more of the city than we had on a past day trip when we joined a short walking tour which led us around the more popular colleges. A longer stay gave us the time to appreciate the history and the stately architecture of the some 38 colleges which make up the University. All were within walking distance of our accommodation. We were able to spend a full afternoon at the Oxford University Museum of Natural History, and amble along the canals of watching the boats move through the lock systems. We watched rowers go through their paces while punters cruised lazily along the river. We took day trips around the surroundings through picturesque villages and countryside. Oxford is worthy of more than a day trip from London.
Historic architecture can be found around every corner in Oxford
Cambridge University, Cambridge, England
We drove to Cambridge on a day visit. While similar to Oxford (it was established by some Oxford rebels), the University precinct seems smaller and easy to manage on a daytrip. We traversed through some of the quieter back streets, and came out to the lively Kings Parade to Kings College, stopped to watch chocolatiers prepare fresh delectable and summer picnickers sitting on the banks of the River Cam while others took a relaxed punt. We noticed a notably more casual air about the city.
The beautifully manicured lawns and gardens of Kings College
La Sorbonne, Paris, France
Pascal, our Paris Greeter, showed us around his city for an afternoon. Knowing that we would re-visit many of the city’s popular attractions on our own, Pascal concentrated on showing us parts of his city he knew we would not find on our own. He opened gates and doorways into sanctuaries we would never have found around the Left Bank including La Sorbonne, one of the oldest and famous universities in the world. The serene courtyard of Les Ecoles, was one such sanctuary. Les Ecoles is a hostel for female university students inspired by the Spanish Saint Josemaria Escriva, the founder of Opus Dei movement.
The courtyard sanctuary of Les Ecoles, La Sorbonne, Paris
University of Milan, Italy
The University of Milan boasts teaching facilities in buildings of historical significance in central Milan. Dino ushered us into the entrance of the former Palazzo dating back to the 15th century.
We were greeted by a beautiful courtyard filled with a luscious green lawn surrounded by a covered arcade around the perimeter. Similar but smaller courtyards branched off from the left and right. Two of these hold further historical significance. Each has an archaeological site displaying ancient Roman ruins. The first is relatively intact, displaying the remains of the Roman version of a refrigerator, and the second, the remains of a large kitchen.
The main building of the University known as “La Cá Granda” (the Big House) was used as a hospital for the poor until after the Second World War when it was handed over to the University. The Law and Humanities Library is now housed in one of the largest old hospital wards. Wander in and imagine it full of hospital beds.
Brera Academy of Fine Arts, Milan, Italy
Located on the site of a former monastery, the Academy in Palazzo Brera shares its location with the Pinacoteca di Brera, the main gallery for paintings in Milan, the Astronomical Observatory and Botanica Gardens located behind the Palazzo. There is plenty to fill your afternoon here before you dine at one of the many restaurants in the area.
Start your visit in the courtyard where you’ll find a replica of the nude bronze sculpture of the great French rule, Napoleon. Take a wander along the corridors and into the galleries. You may be treated to some more modern art pieces if students were showing their art portfolios at the time. The piece de resistance for us was walking up the grand staircase and stepping inside the Great Library, one of Europe’s oldest libraries with its wood-panelled reading room and books dating back to the 1600’s lining in glass bookshelves.
The bronze statue of Napoleon Bonaparte at the entrance to the Brera
University of Vienna, Vienna, Austria
Known for its music and culture, the University, founded in 1365, the third oldest university in central Europe. While the University is spread out in buildings throughout the city, the main building at the “New University” on the Ringstrasse (the “Old University” is located near the Jesuit Church) is worthy of entering. The building hosts domed entrances, elegant staircases and beautiful hallways, a shaded courtyard where summer students gather. At the entrance there is a display of photographs of the 20 Nobel prize winners who studied at the University.
The Old University is not generally open to the public but you will be able to take a look at the exterior of the building and if you get to have a look inside, head to the main hall to see the frescoes. It won’t be a wasted visit, there is plenty to see around the area. Look out for an upcoming post dedicated to our visit to Vienna.
The grand staircases and hallways of the University of Vienna
University of Southern California, Los Angeles, USA
The primary purpose of our visit to USC was to visit a family member who works there. We met her at her office space in a building just off campus which gave us the perfect chance to enjoy seeing more than the University buildings. Instead, as we walked toward the main University buildings to have lunch, we walked through the streets of sorority and fraternity houses, some with students enjoying the summer afternoon outdoors throwing a ball around.
The University was founded in 1880 and is the oldest private research university in California. A recent renewal of the University campus has introduced beautifully gardened quadrangles and open areas intermingled with the old and new red brick buildings designed to reflect Romanesque architecture.
The red brick buildings of the University of Southern California campus
Our aim is to inspire. If you enjoyed this post, please feel free to share:
“Let’s spend a day on one of the islands”, we agree. We’re in Split, Croatia. Having spent a couple of days exploring the city we think it might be nice to visit one of the islands off the coast. We’ve read much about the natural beauty of the islands; the whitewashed towns and rolling hills covered in lavender and vineyards, the clear blue waters of the Adriatic Sea which lap at the edges of golden sand beaches, and the hidden coves.
It is the height of summer so the queue at the ferry ticket booth helps us change our minds and look at an alternative option. Trogir and Ciovo are small islands connected to the mainland by bridges and we can drive there.
Rain is falling when we wake the next day, lucky we didn’t buy tickets for the islands! We set off hoping it will stop by the time we arrive in Trogir. The road is busy and the 30-minute drive takes almost an hour but the rain has stopped and the sun is peeping from behind the clouds by the time we have parked.
The historic little town of Trogir
It’s early and few people are about. Much of the historic town is still closed so we look about without distraction. The town itself is very small and can be walked around in a matter of minutes. However, we take our time walking around the harbour and along the charming waterfront to the fortress before exploring the tight streets of the UNESCO listed historic centre.
The palm-lined promenade in Trogir
Back in the car, we drive over the new bridge to Ciovo with the aim of driving as much as we can around the island’s perimeter taking in the scenery and stopping in the main resort areas of Okrug Gornji, Okrug Dornji and Slatine. Maybe we’ll go for a swim.
Once on the island, the coastal road takes us past sheltered coves with small jetties and pebbled beaches. Our leisurely drive comes to an abrupt stop when we reach Okrug Gornji, the island’s main town. There’s a traffic jam of holidaymakers trying to find a car park to buy supplies, settle by the beach or like us, passing on the way through.
Once past the traffic, we find Okrug Dornji, only several kilometres away. It’s a small beach settlement surrounded by pine trees. The road narrows and our GPS tells us that there is no option to circumnavigate the island. Lunchtime is nearing and with limited options, we turn back to Okrug Gornji.
The traffic is still there and we are ravenous by the time we are beachside. There are plenty of eateries along the waterfront to sit, enjoy a bite to eat and people watch. Children frolic in the shallow waters while parents keep an eye on them from behind sunglasses lazing on their sun loungers. There is an air of relaxed informality. Unlike most beaches in Europe which are segregated and cordoned for paying guests, the beaches on Ciovo are mostly public. There were options to hire sun loungers etc. although we did not see them being extensively used.
The relaxed atmosphere beachside at Okrug Gornji
Well-fed and rehydrated we make the return journey bypassing the bridge back to Trogir to continue towards the other end of the island. The scenery is beautiful, small groups of holidaymakers are enjoying an afternoon dip or jumping off little jetties into the crystal clear waters. We reach Slatine, another small beachside area. Not too much else here either. But we can see Split across the ocean. We realise that our previous day’s circuit of Park Suma Marjan was ambitious.
Ciovo is a family-friendly island and vacationers seem to be mostly Croatian. The southern side is steep and barren making the northern coast more popular because of its varied landscape. Pine and cypress forests intermingle with vineyards, olive and almond plantations and the beautiful coastline, without having to take a boat ride to reach it makes it a popular destination. In keeping with the relaxed atmosphere, accommodation is mostly made up of small B&B’s and guesthouses. There is no sign at all of any large hotels.
Our conclusion about Croatian islands
You would ask if it is worth the visit? Would it have been a better use of our time to go to Brac or Hvar? The ease of access in the comfort of our own car (even with the slow traffic conditions) was definitely a bonus.
Trogir was quaint and charming. After the busyness of Split, it was nice to be able to walk about without being one of a crowd.
Ciovo provided a chance to observe how the Croatians like to holiday with their families (like us, simply). The coast road was beautiful and provided another perspective of the mainland.
We were glad we provided ourselves with this unplanned opportunity to do what we love to do; follow the backroads and see what other tourists don’t.
Our plan is to visit some of Croatia’s well-known islands on a future visit; hopefully, while small boat sailing along the captivating coastline of this country.
If you liked this post and are looking for ideas for a day trip from Dubrovnik, then you’ll like this post.
Our aim is to inspire. If you enjoyed this post, please feel free to share:
We think the best time to visit Tuscany is in summer when the vineyards are green and vines drooping with grapes ready to harvest and pastures are full of sunflowers following the sun’s daily path.
Having stayed in the larger cities of Florence and Sienna on past visits we decided to settle in the smaller town of Arezzo for a few days so we could explore the countryside north and south of it.
Make sure you enter the old town before 5pm our host warned us otherwise you won’t be able to drive your car in. And, follow the map we have provided; do not trust the navigation system (very deceptive). We understood why once we entered the gates of the historic old town. The streets are a maze of narrow alleys with colourful flags hanging on street corners.
Giostra flags flying in the streets of Arezzo
Stephano looks after his family-owned apartment on the first floor of a building built in the 16th century where we are staying. He is excited that our visit to Arezzo coincides with the Giostra Del Saracino (the annual jousting festival) being held at the weekend telling us that there will be plenty of things happening in the lead-up. Check-in is complete and the car is parked in a garage so the streets can be kept clear for the practice sessions.
Stepping outside into the small square there are two police officers guarding the small square outside our apartment. Why are they guarding the spot; are they expecting big crowds or hooliganism? “No, it’s just to keep the streets clear in preparation for the joust. The area is the base for setting up the knights in armour before the joust”, the policewoman who speaks impeccable English tells us. Sonia proudly tells us that she is a competitive flag-waver and has visited Australia for a competition. Both officers are helpful with suggestions about what we should do and see during our few days in the area.
Our first stop is the main square, Piazza Grande. A beautiful square unique for both the coats of arms which adorn the facades of the medieval buildings around the square and for its sloping red brick surface, it is known as home to the annual Giostra and the Fiera Antiquaria, a monthly antique fair where up to 500 dealers fill the square on the first Sunday of every month. Enchanting at the best of times, it is even more so as we watch musicians rehearse in preparation for the Giostra.
Piazza Grande in preparation for the big jousting competition
The Giostra dates back to medieval times and continues the tradition where the town separates into four quarters (each quarter has their own flag) during the Giostra. Two knights are nominated to represent their quarter in the joust. Dressed in medieval costume, the knights, cheered on by their supporters and residents of their quarter, ride into the square to strike the Saracen (a wooden figure covered in armour) with their lance. The team which hurts the figure the most wins.
We are enlightened about the jousting tradition when we come across a local dressed as a knight standing outside the doorway of the official contest office. He invites us in to show us memorabilia while giving us the history behind the joust tournament in his limited English. An abbreviated description: in the 14th century, the people of Rome called the people of countries on the east side of the Roman Empire (Persians, Turks, Arabs and all Muslims) Saracens. A number of battles were fought between the two religions where the Christians defeated the Muslims. The recreation of these battles by staging festive jousting contests started in the 16th century.
Saturday night arrives and the town is bustling in anticipation. There is a festive spirit as many enjoy an evening out for aperitifs and a meal before the highlight. We do the same! We partake in an evening ritual we have adopted by stopping at the bar where we had enjoyed our coffee earlier in the day to enjoy a refreshing Aperol Spritz with tapas before continuing on around the corner for a beautiful meal in the garden setting at Osteria il Grottino.
Taking a stroll to digest our dinner before having a gelato, we arrive on Corso Italia just as the parade is commencing. Drummers, trumpets, armoured warriors, flag-wavers, jousters on horseback create a wonderful precursor to what is yet to come.
The parade having passed and with a gelato in hand we continue on to the arena in the Piazza and find a vantage point. Tickets for the event seating has been sold out in advance so we find a spot among the crowd lining the perimeter of the square to listen to the bands and fanfare before the competition starts. Then it starts. Turn by turn the knights on horseback thunder down the narrow alley heading straight to the Saracen accompanied by the roar of the crowd in support of their knight. Hearing both is exhilarating.
No time is wasted on the contest and before we know it, it’s all over and we scurry back to our apartment before the jovial crowd disperses.
Our conclusion
If you are interested in medieval history and would like an authentic experience, the joust season is the perfect time to visit Arezzo. Our honest opinion, we would say any time is a good time. Stay a few days because there is much to see in do in the town and surrounding countryside.
A little more info
Where we stayed:
Il Mezzanino is in the historic centre. A modern apartment in a historic building, it captures the charm of Arezzo’s past. The apartment is well placed to walk to the main tourist attractions (Piazza Grande, the Cathedral of San Donato and the Santa Maria della Pieve church). Listen out for the church bells chiming and the sound of Gregorian chants emitting from the small church in the courtyard outside the apartment on Sunday mornings.
Some of the other towns we visited in the area:
Castiglion Fiorentino is a little walled town sitting on a hill with picturesque views over the surrounding countryside 19km from Arezzo. It sits on the road between Arezzo and Cortona and worth stopping for a look on the way. Sonia, the policewoman we met in Arezzo suggested we visit. It is her home town and she runs a B&B in the town – Suites San Michele which is where we will base ourselves on our next visit to the area.
Cortona is hilltop town about 28km from Arezzo with fantastic views to Lake Trasimeno and across the southern Tuscan countryside. The town was made famous by the author Frances Mayes in her book and subsequently in the film “Under the Tuscan Sun”. Wander its streets and into the beautiful Piazza della Republica where the nativity scene was filmed.
Montepulciano is another hilltop town about 60km from Arezzo via Cortona. We detoured taking a scenic drive along the back country roads lined with sunflower farms, vineyards and orchards to reach the town. A historic town full of palaces, churches and pretty squares and steep streets it provides stunning views over the valleys that we had just driven through. The area is known for its Nobile wine and there are plenty of shopfronts for family-owned vineyards in the town where you stop to taste and buy.
Expecting the city streets to be quiet so we can watch it awaken, we find it is anything but! Everyone has made a head start on us. The roads are jammed with traffic and pavements are busy with owners of micro-businesses staking their claim to a place on the footpath. Further ahead a group of young Buddhist monks stand patiently on a street corner hoping that passers-by will fill their vessels with alms.
We negotiate the footpath avoiding the temptation to stop and look. There will be plenty of time later in the day. For now, we are headed to the largest green space in Bangkok, Lumpini Park.
Lumpini Park
Lumpini Park is where Bangkok’s city folk go for a respite from the hustle and bustle that is going on beyond its boundaries. There are 57 hectares to explore with lots of greenery, open spaces and shaded areas off the paths.
Early morning is the best time to visit, not only because it is cooler but also because it is the best time to capture the essence of what the park means to the people of Bangkok.
By the time we arrive daylight has just broken and the paths around the park are already full with runners, joggers, fast and slow walkers while on the manicured lawns, various forms of tai chi are being performed by groups of all ages. Elsewhere, yoga mats are spread out with yogis practising their poses. We notice there are plenty of shaded seating areas. Most are full of groups of people. Some have elderly women spreading breakfast out on tables to share while they have a natter and under others, groups are practising their musical instruments. We come across a patch filled with outdoor fitness equipment being very well used.
There were groups of people practising the graceful art of Tai Chi throughout the Park
Giant lizards in the Park
We take our time meandering through the park and around the lake. As a part of the path nears the lakeside we are surprised by several giant lizards in the water and parading about on the lawns. They look very much like Komodo dragons. The locals seem unperturbed by their presence and go about their business so we feel safe but are mindful about keeping our distance though just in case they are dangerous. We find out later that these are Monitor lizards and completely harmless unless they feel threatened. They are part of the ecosystem that keeps the park free of dead fish and birds.
Monitor lizards in Lumpini Park
Fitness in the Park
The Park holds something for everyone. We come across seniors club; a dedicated building where the elderly can gather for formal activities, in a far corner a ball-room dance class is in session with a group of middle-aged couples taking part. Further on, we come across a dilapidated looking outdoor gym with a hotch-potch of rusty gym equipment. It looks abandoned and we wonder if anyone uses it. We find it being well-used when we walk past on another day.
The open-air gym in Lumpini Park
As we near the end of our circuit we hear music pumping from loudspeakers and arrive at the park entrance to see the iconic Lumpini Park aerobics class in full swing. At least sixty people of all ages and fitness levels are following the moves of the energetic instructor on stage. The class is free and held every morning and evening. It’s worth joining in for the fun, laughter and fitness or simply stop to watch the fun.
The aerobic classes looked like fun
Go to Lumpini Park at any time of the day and you will find yourself amongst locals. The Park loses many of its users by 8am if you prefer to visit at a quieter time. However, if like us, you prefer to watch a city come to life, arrive as dawn breaks. Be entertained, get your daily dose of exercise and enjoy the Park with the locals.
Our aim is to inspire. If you enjoyed this post, please feel free to share:
The street was getting narrower and narrower. We contemplate if we should slowly ease our way back or bravely (and foolishly) venture forth.
We agree, we are too far in to back out now, we’ve made it this far! With no “One Way” sign in sight, we risk another car coming in from the other direction. Here goes.
The wing mirrors are folded in and calculations are made on how many millimetres we have on either side of our car to inch past the parked cars without causing any damage. Who allows street parking on such narrow streets anyway?
We’ve just travelled down the motorway from Madrid to Seville on our first self-drive adventure. We were jubilant to be told that we had been specially selected for an upgrade to a larger vehicle. We now see why the car hire attendant had that secretive smile on his face. “Nabbed these two novices”, he thought. We thought, this a brand new Mercedes, we can tour in comfort.
Predicaments such as this make us wonder why we think of taking self-drive holidays. It doesn’t take long for us to remember…
I look across to our two teenage sons as we hurtle down the motorway from the Fiumicino Airport to our apartment in central Rome. They stare wide-eyed glancing between me and the speedometer as they watch the needle move over the 130km speed limit. Looks like all we’ve heard about crazy Italian driving is true. Our first experience on a European road.
Other vehicles on the motorway appear to be travelling at the same pace. Lorries laden with goods are racing along, as are the cute Fiat Puntos. Once we are over the initial shock, we sit back and watch the scenery feeling quite safe, our well-dressed Italian driver is ruling his piece of the road! We haven’t come across a road accident yet and are comfortable in the knowledge that we have no intention of driving ourselves. A few days of sightseeing on foot, a train ride to Naples before returning to Rome to join a tour to see the amazing country we’ve heard so much about on a coach tour.
The places we visited on our coach tour did not disappoint. We had had our first taste of Italy and would definitely be visiting again to see more of this country which had captured our hearts in such a short time.
Travelling along the vast stretches of motorway, we would pass by magnificent looking hilltop towns, farmhouse in amongst fields of sunflowers and olive groves wondering what it would be to stop and have a closer look and dream of staying with the locals as other adventurous travellers have done in the past.
It is the thought of realising this dream that continually encourages us now to take any opportunity we can to self-drive on holidays. We take a leisurely pace, not driving too many hours or too far in the day just to go from A to B. Instead, we stop regularly in planned places of interest or divert off the beaten track towards something that has caught our eye. We enjoy slow travel by arranging longer stays in towns so we can spend time exploring surrounding countryside and attractions, and experience the varying cultures and culinary experiences of smaller towns.
We have given away the faster motorways, or at least try to avoid them. European motorways are much easier to drive on. They may seem hectic and daunting at first but they are the best place to get used to driving on the right hand side of the road (if that is the wrong side for you). Drivers tend to stay in their lanes, trucks often have their own dedicated lanes, and once you are on the road you realise that there is method to this madness. There is more courtesy and respect with very little tailgating.
Often we will park our car on arrival and revert to exploring a town on foot. However, it’s much more interesting to amble along back roads, take in the scenery and visit places off the tourist radar on the way to our destination.
Of course, things may not always go smoothly, like our Seville experience. We had another one just a few days ago, driving into London City. The city area has a “congestion charge” which we wanted to avoid by driving around the outskirts of the area when returning our hire car. Our GPS had other plans! Before we knew it we were driving along the River Thames on a perfect summer’s day taking in the spectacular sights of the London Eye and Westminster before us.
“Take a right turn here”, the GPS told said. Suddenly we were driving up The Mall towards Buckingham Palace, up Constitution Hill and through Marble Arch. Our sightseeing was complete before we had even checked into our accommodation.
The congestion charge was paid online – no harm done. We laughed off the experience and agreed it was an exquisite way to enter London City.
Self-drive will not always go to plan and provide you with lots of little surprises along the way. It will, however, let you see a lot more than you intended to.
Our aim is to inspire. If you enjoyed this post, please feel free to share:
We were breakfasted and ready to leave for Najera at 7:30 am where we’d end Day 9 of walking the full Camino de Santiago. Day 10 of our Camino experience would finish in the beautiful town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
We enjoyed our rest day in Logrono but were itching to return to walking. Walking had become cathartic. We looked forward to waking up each morning and setting out on another day of walking. We realised that we now had our “walking legs”! More on this in our next blog.
Day 9 – Logrono to Najera
Day 9 was another big day walking the full Camino de Santiago. There were nearly 30km to cover before the day’s heat set it in. Luckily in the north of Spain, the hottest part of the day is later, normally around 4-5 pm. As well as being a long walk, there were limited services on the route so it was critical to be prepared with plenty of water.
The long road out of Logrono
Our Camino “bible” warned us that the first five km of the leaving Logrono is “dismal”. It even suggested that pilgrims may want to consider taking the bus to the outskirts of the town. We decided to walk and found it was nowhere as dire as suggested. On the contrary, we enjoyed watching the city coming to life, and locals on their morning walks through parkland accompanying us almost to the first point of interest.
A worshipper in front of a shrine on the path out of Logrono.
Parque de la Grajera
Parque de la Grajera is a nature reserve set alongside a reservoir. When we arrived at the reservoir, there were no pilgrims and fewer locals around. Picnic tables were set under the shade of the trees and the parking areas were scattered about indicating it was a popular spot.
The beautiful scenery around the lake in Parque de la Grajera
Buoyed by the better route than expected, we continued for a further six km towards Navarette. The paths were quiet and we didn’t encounter any pilgrims on a scenic countryside walk.
Navarrete
Ruins of the Hospital de San Juan de Acre
Navarrete, like other hilltop towns on the Camino de Santiago, was visible from a distance long before we reached it. Before we walked uphill into the town we passed a significant landmark on the route. The Hospital de San Juan de Acre ruins lie on the left of the path. The Hospital was founded in 1185 for pilgrims to rest and recover before continuing on the Camino. It was abandoned in the 19th century and now just the ruins remain. The portal and windows were salvaged and now stand at the cemetery which was passed after leaving Navarrete.
Ruins of the Hospital de San Juan de Acre on the outskirts of Navarrete
Navarrete township
After inspecting the ruins, we walked past a winery and up the cobblestone street to the township. Several young pilgrims were putting together a sandwich lunch at the side of the road next to the winery. They were the first we had seen in a few hours.
Navarrete is renowned for two things:
wine – vineyards surround the area; and
terracotta pottery – an art practised in the town since Roman times.
The cobblestone main street of Navarrete.
The streets were empty with only a couple of people inside the Iglesia de la Asuncion when we reached the top of the hill. The church is worth stopping to look inside at its stunning altar and stained glass windows. There was also a table with a stamp for our pilgrim’s passports.
The beautiful altar of Iglesia de la Asuncion.
Before continuing, we rested on a bench in a charming courtyard outside the church. We found many scenic rest spots like this one while walking the full Camino de Santiago.
Navarrete Cemetery and Pottery Workshop
On the roadside on the other side of the town, we came across the cemetery mentioned in our travel notes. This is where the portal and windows from the Hospital de San Juan de Acre have been relocated. If you look closely you will see the details and features including the dragons and engravings on the gate.
The ornate portal of Navarrete cemetery was originally part of the Hospital de San Juan del Acre
On the other side of the road is a pottery workshop where you can see and purchase some of the town’s terracotta pottery.
We walked on a roadside path for approximately five kilometres where the Camino path forked and provided the option to detour through the small township of Ventosa. The detour only added one kilometre to our walk, so we decided to take the scenic route instead of the road and make the town our stop for lunch.
Ventosa
Every year artists display their craft along the meandering one-kilometre-long path to the church at the top of Ventosa’s hill. We enjoyed a leisurely walk admiring each inching closer to our lunch destination. We highly recommend taking a small detour for this added feature on this long and otherwise unremarkable walking day.
The open-air art gallery leading to Ventosa on the Camino de Santiago route
The township (pop 175) was quiet. We found our lunch venue, Bar Virgen Blanca at the bottom of the hill on entering the town. It’s a strategic spot where you can rest and eat on the terrace watching the comings and goings.
There are no further service areas on the 10-11 kilometre walk from Ventosa to Najera so this is the best place to replenish any supplies.
Najera
The pretty Iglesia de San Saturnino
Walking out of Ventosa we turned to see the pretty scene with the church on the hill and were immediately at the gates of a vineyard and its cellar door. Not long after leaving Ventosa, we arrived at the summit of Alto de San Anton which provides sweeping views over the vineyards. Despite the lack of services we were treated to walking on paths surrounded by grapevines and vineyards for much of the afternoon.
On the road downhill we came across the small cone-shaped structure our guidebook had mentioned. It used to provide shelter for shepherds and farmers.
Closer to Najera, we had to navigate its industrial territory before arriving in the older part of the town. The township is inhabited on both sides of its river, Rio Najerillo. We took in the scenery, including the red rock face and the houses built into the cliff before crossing the bridge to our hotel.
Najera is a small town and once we’d completed our daily yoga session and refreshed, we set out to explore by returning over the bridge to visit the Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real. Cafes lined both sides of the river and locals were out after siesta. Back on our hotel side of the bridge, we strolled the quiet back streets before settling down at one of the more popular cafes for pre-dinner drinks.
A glimpse of the red rock cliffs of Najera.
Our accommodation
Our accommodation for the night, Hotel Duques de Najera, is in a building dating back to the 17th century. The rooms (15 in total) are tastefully decorated and provide facilities for a comfortable overnight stay—a pleasant surprise because we hadn’t expected such a high-quality hotel in a small town.
The hotel had arranged for pilgrims to enjoy an early dinner at 8:00 pm at Meson El Buen Yantar, which offers traditional Riojan cuisine.
The highlights of the day
We enjoyed pre-dinner drinks at a riverside bar while writing in our diaries before sharing our table. A group of locals supporting the Spanish player, Carlo Alcaraz, sat with us to watch Wimbledon tennis on the big screen.
At dinner, we met Martin, who had completed a portion of the Camino with his wife but returned alone to complete the full pilgrimage now that he was retired. Martin had never taken more than two weeks of holiday during his working life and was interested to see how he would feel on Day 14 of the walk. Martin would become part of “our group” of pilgrims with whom we’d stay at the same hotels and dine at the end of each day.
Walking statistics
30km
7 hours include rest and lunch breaks
Day 10 – Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada
Breakfast wasn’t available until 7:30 am so we woke a little later on Day 10 of walking the full Camino de Santiago. There wasn’t a hot breakfast option available and instead, a delicious array of cereals, bread, cheese, meats and cakes were provided accompanied by tea, coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice.
By 8:00 am we had hit the road. The temperature was cool and dark clouds were looming. We packed our wet weather gear in our backpacks just in case. The route out of Najera led us past the houses hugging the cliff then a steady path through vineyards to the hilltop town of Azofra six kilometres away.
Azofra
We found more pilgrims in Azofra. We bought bananas at a small cafe and made a toilet stop. As we were leaving the town we caught up with a Canadian pilgrim we had seen on the way out of Logrono the day before. She had rolled her ankle that day when she had worn her hiking sandals instead of shoes. The injury had slowed her down considerably but she remained optimistic.
Leaving her to walk at her own pace we came across a group of young people leaving an albergue. They invited us to join them for a photo together. Photo taken, we left the jolly group behind. Not another sole from the township was to be seen.
As we continued we came across more familiar faces from previous days wishing each a Buen Camino as we passed them. A pleasant landscape of rolling hills changed to wheat and sunflower fields as we neared Ciruena.
Ciruena
There was a steep climb of about one kilometre before a modern subdivision welcomed us into Ciruena. Again, not a sole was about. We read later that despite the apartments in a modern-day estate, Ciruena is a ghost town with many empty dwellings. The estate was built anticipating an influx of people coming to live in its beautiful countryside which never eventuated.
It was time for a rest break and a park was the perfect place to remove our shoes and eat our bananas before carrying on.
The track led us through the old part of Ciruena
The new Ciruena merged into the old village and we were buoyed by spotting an inhabitant working in her vegetable garden before we crossed the road onto a long open dirt path surrounded by wheat fields. The skies were still grey but with no rain, it was a pleasant walk to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada
The countryside turned slowly into the township of Santo Domingo de la Calzada. As we walked past businesses selling farm equipment, it was hard to tell what we would expect from the town, it looked pretty dreary!
Soon enough we crossed the portal into the old township, passed the cathedral and monastery, and realised how pretty this town was. Again, the streets were quiet except for Camino pilgrims.
Santo Domingo de la Calzada is named after Saint Domingo de la Calzada who helped pilgrims complete their journey to Santiago de Compostela by improving the roads and bridges on the Camino Way. He set up the small township with a small chapel and hospital where pilgrims could rest in the 11th century.
Catedral de Santiago de la Calzada
Pilgrims are instantly drawn to the Catedral de Santiago de la Calzada and its bell tower in the Plaza del Santo middle of the medieval town. This is where we arrive to stamp and stamp our pilgrim’s passports. There is a long queue to enter the cathedral. Pilgrims visit the cathedral to commemorate the story of a pilgrim hanged in the town because of his misdeeds.
The bell tower of Catedral de Santiago de la Calzada in Plaza del Santo
Plaza de Espana
It was lunchtime and the sun had come out. We found a cafe/bar in Plaza de Espana, a large open square behind the cathedral. The square has a series of arcaded buildings set into the walls which now house the municipal functions of the town. There was a mix of locals and other pilgrims lunching in the square and we enjoyed observing them over lunch.
The arcaded Plaza de Espana
We checked into our hotel just outside the walls, completed our arrival ritual, found a laundromat, and washed our clothes before exploring the town further.
Old Baroque homes and architecture
The streets on the other side of Plaza de Santo house a legacy of successful times in the old town’s past. Beautiful Baroque facades and entrances of grand homes line the streets, each a wonder to look at. Sadly, many homes are now in a state of disrepair and crumbly. Again, the roads were empty and we could only imagine how they must have been bustling in better times.
Old Baroque buildings line the streets of Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
Convent of San Francisco
Just outside of the town’s old walls is the San Franciscan Convent. Unfortunately, it was closed to visitors when we arrived so we could only wander into its pretty cloister. We think it would be worth coordinating your visit so you can climb the bell tower and take a guided tour of the convent. The convent grounds also house one of the town’s two paradors (old pilgrims hospitals refurbished into luxury hotels). The town’s second parador is next to the Cathedral in Plaza del Santo.
The San Franciscan Convent and parador
Old Market Street
We ended our walking tour in the sanctuary of the old market street sitting down to journal and have a pre-dinner wine to sample the famous Riojan wine of the region. The tables are filled with other pilgrims like us. There is an albergue at the end of the street
Our accommodation
Our accommodation for the night was at a boutique hostel on the Camino trail just outside of Plaza de Espana. Hotel de El Molino de Florens is run by a gregarious couple who greeted us enthusiastically and immediately made us feel comfortable and welcome.
Our room, one of ten, looked out to the street and was spacious and tastefully decorated. The hotel offered a seating area behind the reception office where guests could relax.
After our pre-dinner drink in the market square, we enjoyed our three-course meal in the cosy bar and restaurant. Prepared by a family member of the couple, the menu consisted: of a hearty lentil soup, grilled stuffed mushrooms, grilled fish with vegetables finished with a dessert of lemon mousse and cinnamon sprinkled custard topped with biscuit crumb which we shared accompanied by a bottle of white Riojan wine.
Our fellow guests
We observed some of our fellow guests over our leisurely dinner.
Martin, whom we had met the evening before in Najera was enjoying his meal at one of the tables. We chatted briefly exchanging our experiences of the day and what we had seen in the town. He repeated his fear of how hot it would be walking the Meseta.
A well-dressed woman came in and sat at a table across from us, took out her journal and spent the evening writing in her journal over dinner. We concurred that she didn’t look like a pilgrim.
A young fellow sauntered in, smiled at us and sat at another table. He ate dinner over a video call with a lady conversing in Spanish. We felt proud of ourselves each time we heard a word we understood and very quickly confirmed that our Spanish was not as good as we thought.
The highlight of the day
Walking the full Camino de Santiago brought us many experiences. Some were as simple as a short chat with a fellow pilgrim who shared their story.
Three of the youngsters from the group who invited us into their photo, caught up with us within minutes after we left Azofra. We walked and conversed for a time. The two young women, Manon and her friend were walking a section of the Camino together while the young man, Aubern had commenced his journey from Paris. He had taken three months away from work as an aeronautical engineer to complete the Camino de Santiago. Friendly and spirited young adults, strangers to each other who had met while staying in the same albergues. They had become walking companions.
Walking statistics
21km
5 hours including rest stops
Everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago
Are you thinking about completing all or part of the Camino de Santiago? Learn everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago here.
In case you missed it
Follow our 38-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.
We took a final look through the 18th-century Portal de Castilla before turning our backs on Los Arcos. At the end of our long day walking the full Camino de Santiago we would be rewarded by staying an extra day in Logrono.
Day 7 – Los Arcos to Logrono
Our walking notes told us we were going on a long walk from the Navarre region of Spain into the famous Rioja wine area. We had briefly visited the Rioja area on a road trip the year before and had noticed pilgrims walking along the pathways next to the roads. It was exciting to explore the region more thoroughly on foot.
Sansol
Leaving Los Arcos a paved road lined with laden yellow plum trees led us past homes on the outskirts of the town. We walked 7km to the hilltop town of Sansol and could see it long before we arrived. It looked pretty from a distance!
Views of Sansol from the Camino de Santiago trail
The Camino path led us through the town and it was disappointing to find the streets empty. We kept going to Torres del Rio one kilometre away located on another hill across a ravine. Again, the streets through Torres del Rio were quiet and empty. The town, however, was more interesting than Sansol.
Torres del Rio
A conquered Muslim fortress, Torres del Rio (pop 128) shows its later heritage with signs of being ruled by the Knights of the Templar. Iglesia del Santos Sepulcro, an octagonal-shaped church claims pride of place in the middle of the town with its star-patterned ceiling and engraved pillars. Volunteers sometimes open the church in the mornings.
Iglesia del Santos Sepulcro
The Templar hostel is another attraction in the town. Take a peek as you walk by. It is located a few metres up the road from the church. A few more metres further, a mural of the town is painted on the wall of a small courtyard with seating. Pilgrims can take a rest in this quiet olive tree-lined spot.
Resting area in Torres de Rio for Camino pilgrims
Taking shortcuts
What goes up must come down! The downhill trail started almost immediately after we left Torres del Rio. We followed another hiker and took an easy shortcut down the steep brush-covered hill instead of taking the winding trail down. We were gingerly descending when a hefty young fellow appeared behind us. When we stood aside for him to pass, he politely invited us to carry on ahead of him.
The Camino provides great opportunities to meet people from around the world and from all walks of life. Some people who walk the Camino like to be alone with their thoughts, but on other days they may be happy to chat with others. Walking companions might also split up for a while to have some time by themselves before rejoining each other and continuing. Pilgrims have a kind of unwritten rule to be aware of their fellow walkers’ body language before starting a conversation.
Conversations with fellow pilgrims
Back on the trail, our tailgater wanted to converse. A soldier in the German army, he was weighed down by a heavy military backpack. Struck down heavily by COVID-19 more than a year before, he was walking the route to improve his fitness and return to serve his country. After telling us his story, he strode boldly onwards.
Many short conversations like this one were had during our days walking the Camino. It provided an insight into why people embark on the long and arduous walk.
A few kilometres further, back amongst open pastures, we came across a rudimentary monument made by Camino travellers. Pebble pyramids had been built in groups on a rise alongside the path and on a barren tree, all sorts of trinkets tied to the branches. Several walkers had stopped to sit and reflect.
We caught up with our young German walker at a rest stop shortly after. Loud Latino music could be heard down the path long before we arrived. A small stall on the trail offered refreshments and a place to rest our feet before continuing. More steep trails needed to be climbed before we reached the main town on our trail that day, Viana.
Viana
Nearly four hours after walking on a combination of roadside tracks and paths through vineyards, we saw Viana in the distance. A portal announced our entrance into Viana but there was still a few hundred metres of walking uphill before we entered this delightful town.
The portal announcing our arrival in Viana
Plaza los Fueros
While the streets were empty walking into the town everything changed when we arrived in the centre. Townfolk were gathered in the town’s main plaza, Plaza los Fueros and surrounding cafes and eateries. The township was a hive of activity.
Viana’s town hall in Plaza los Fueros
Our pilgrim’s passports were stamped in the pretty Inglesia de Santa Maria before exploring our options for lunch. We waved at the cyclist we’d run into on previous days enjoying his lunch with a young hiker we’d seen on the trail.
Alter of Iglesia de Santa Maria
Plenty of other familiar faces could be spotted around the plaza. A couple who both wore support braces; he seemed to alternate wearing them either on both knees or both calves and she on one knee. They captured our attention because, always in deep conversation, they sped up their pace to overtake us before slowing down again when we would overtake them. Before long, the cycle would be again. We learned later that they were from the Canary Islands.
Lunch by the ruins of Iglesia de San Pedro
Further along Calle Rua Santa Maria, almost at the end of the old town, there was a nice cafe/bar where we stopped to enjoy a wonderful salad lunch next to the ruins of another church, Iglesia de San Pedro. The ruins provided the perfect backdrop with its huge Gothic arches.
The ruins of Iglesia de San Pedro
Refreshed and rested, we left the Viana through Portal de San Felices. A myriad of arrows directed us out of town.
Before long we had caught up with our Canary Island couple and followed them through vineyards for the remaining 9km walk to Logrono. Closer to Logrono we joined a steady stream of pilgrims for the final climb and descent ending at a stall selling snacks and stamping pilgrim’s passports. The stall stands next to the house of Casa Felisa, the house where since 1940 a mother and her daughter have welcomed pilgrims to their town. Our Danish friends who had started earlier than us had stopped too and we walked together on paths lined with community gardens for the remainder of the way into Logrono.
Walking statistics
28.77km
7 hours including rest stops
Day 8 – A rest day – sightseeing in Logrono
Crossing over the River Erbo, we had entered the old town the day before and instantly felt we would like Logrono.
Our accommodation, Silken Hotel Los Bracos was modern and clean. The room was spacious with views over the rooftops to the church towers and was perfect for our rest day to explore the town.
Our comfortable hotel room at the Silken Los Bracos Hotel in Logrono
Having had a late night the day before enjoying the Rioja wine and dining with our Danish friends who were continuing, we woke leisurely. After breakfast, we set off to find the laundromat to do our washing. While waiting for the washing to run through its cycle we took the opportunity to wander up and down Avenida Gran Via Juan Carlos I, the bustling main street bordering the old town.
Our chores were completed an hour later so we had the rest of the day to explore.
Sightseeing in Logrono Old Town
Our first stop was at the Tourist Office to gather information on the notable places in the town to visit. They told us that entry to all places of interest was free.
Across from the Tourist Office is an art gallery. We looked at a photographic exhibition inside before continuing.
Museo de la Rioja
Past the La Rioja Parliament building is a small street which leads to a small plaza, Plaza San Agustin. Straight ahead we found what we had been looking for, a stunning Baroque building, Espatero Palace, where the Museum de la Rioja is now housed. Another grand building next to the Palace is the Logrono’s old post office, now a prestigious hotel.
The elegant Museo de la Rioja building
A couple of informative hours were spent in the museum learning about the history of La Rioja. We highly recommend a visit.
Plaza de Mercado and Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda
The next stop was Plaza del Mercado, a leafy square and a central hub of the old city. Santa Maria de la Redonda cathedral features twin Baroque towers and is the highlight of the square. We took a quick look inside the church, the intricately designed and gleaming gold altarpiece is the cathedral’s crowning glory.
Santa Maria de la Redonda in Plaza de Mercado
Buskers were singing and playing music on the perimeters of the square and there are plenty of cafes and bars to choose from to sit and enjoy the atmosphere. It was the perfect opportunity to embrace the ambience over our lunch before continuing.
Mercado de San Blas
We had heard much about the vibrance of La Riojan food and wines so a stop at the marketplace, Mercado de San Blas was a must. However, on arrival, we found that most stalls had closed for the day. There were still a few open fruit stalls, so we bought some fresh summer fruit to enjoy later.
A night of tapas and vino in Calle Laurel
Calle Laurel is lined with pintxos/tapas and raciones bars and is the best place to sample the region’s wine and food
Eating out on Calle Laurel is highly recommended on the list of things to do when in Logrono. It’s next to the Mercado, lined with pintxos/tapas and wine bars. It’s the perfect place to indulge in the region’s delicacies. The bars are open for lunch and dinner. Each bar has its specialities so the best way to enjoy them is to hop from one bar to another sampling each. We enjoyed the evening doing exactly that while incorporating a little people-watching.
Raciones in Donde Dani, an elegant pintxos bar on Calle Laurel
One last stop – Parque de Espolon
A walk around Parque de Espolon, a large park and square not far from Calle Laurel completed our evening. The park is where the locals come at the end of the day for a stroll or to sit on a bench surrounded by flower beds and the imposing statue dedicated to General Balomero Espartero, a local hero. Again, it was the perfect place to enjoy people-watching.
Evening in Parque de Espoplon
In case you missed it – Walking the full Camino de Santiago
If you’d like to follow our journey from the start, click on the links below to read:
The streets were quiet when we returned through the township. We passed over the Puenta de la Reina to walk to Estella where we would end Day 5 of walking the full Camino de Santiago. From Estella, we’ll carry on to Los Arcos on Day 6. Both Estella and Los Arco sound like they’ll be interesting.
Leaving the town of Puenta de la Reina by passing through the portal and over the Roman bridge
Puenta de la Reina to Estella
Our walking notes promised a walk over rolling hills alongside vineyards and amongst olive and almond groves through the ancient towns of Bargota and Ciraqui.
We hit the road at 7:30am after having a satisfying breakfast at Hotel Jacques, which provides hotel and hostel accommodation. We stayed in a comfortable room in the hotel section.
Within an hour we had passed through the town of Maneru and came across a French family of three (mother, father and daughter) whom we had seen on the route over the past several days. After exchanging pleasantries we left them behind and found ourselves walking behind three young adults talking and laughing as they walked.
We all came to a standstill at a Camino arrow pointing in two directions. One of the arrows directed us up a narrow and rough track. Comparing notes and apps we agreed that both routes would take us to the same place. We would be safer to take the wider trail.
With the ice broken, we chatted with Ines, Fernando and Santiago as we walked. The boys were twins and Ines was their older sister. They were walking part of the Camino trail as a five-day family holiday. All three had completed the last section of the Camino Frances as part of a school activity when they were younger. They were trying to catch up with their parents who had started walking earlier than their children that morning. They strode on ahead of us continuing their banter.
Ciraqui
The hilltop town of Ciraqui was within view as we walked along a track surrounded by rolling hills, wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards. The sky above was clear and blue.
Views of the hilltop town of Ciraqui and beyond as we walked alongside vineyards on the Camino de Santiago
There was a bit of a climb to the centre of Ciraqui at the top of the hill where the church and monastery are located. The church was closed. A stamp and stamp pad sat on the small table by the restroom for us to stamp our pilgrim passports. The streets were empty except for pilgrims making their way to the top to descend through the other side of the town.
The climb to the crest of Ciraqui township
On the other side of the township was one of the highlights for pilgrims who pass through Ciraqui. Halfway down the tarmac road, the remains of a well-preserved 2000-year-old Roman road appeared exposed. The road led down to another rarity, an old Roman bridge. Our young friends had caught up with their parents and were resting in the shade by the beautiful Roman stone road with other pilgrims.
The old Roman stone road at Ciraqui
We slowed down to manoeuvre our way down the road but decided to carry on over the bridge to the township of Lorca for our rest stop.
The old Roman Bridge outside Ciraqui
Lorca
The walk to Lorca was more demanding. With the beautiful scenery behind us, the track was craggy with many ups and downs. Again, we were grateful to have chosen to use hiking poles. They provided much-needed assistance on the steep and rocky inclines as much as the steadiness they gave us as we navigated downhill.
Finally, at the top of a steep and rocky ravine, the road into Lorca appeared and we sat down for a well-earned rest opposite the church at the entrance to the town. Looking around us we saw a few familiar faces including the loud Asian American lady who had sat at the table across from us during dinner in Saint Jean Pied de Port boasting to her companion that she had completed the walk three times before. Many familiar faces appeared, reappeared, and sometimes disappeared during our time on the Camino.
We had taken off our shoes when Danish Jens and Kirsten arrived. Thoughts on the journey so far were discussed before they continued up the road to find a cafe for coffee.
Villatuerta
Rested, we continued through vineyards and along paths lined with bright sunflower fields. There was one more township to walk through, Villatuerta before we reached our overnight stay in Estella.
Over a Roman bridge and at the top of a steep road, we arrived at the old 14th-century church, Iglesia de la Asuncion standing in a courtyard. We took the opportunity to have a look inside, stamp our passports and have a drink from our water bottles before continuing.
Iglesia de la Asuncion in Villatuerta
Just outside of Villatuerta, there was the small hermitage our guidebook had pointed out. Originally part of a larger monastery complex it has since disappeared leaving the beautiful sight of the lonely chapel sitting amongst the olive groves. We decided not to detour to have a look and instead continued. There was one more rise to climb and before long we were walking along a neverending bike path which eventually led us into Estella.
The pretty scene of the hermitage sitting amongst the olive groves
Estella
It was delightful to cross over the Rio Ega towards our accommodation and find it bustling with locals and pilgrims. Estella is divided in two with settlements on both sides of the river.
We decided to have lunch in front one of Estella’s famous landmarks, Puenta de la Carcel (previously known as Puenta de San Martin). The bridge has a steep single arch and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the river and the township on both sides. The Iglesia de Santa Maria Jus de Castillo and the Santo Domingo convent, located on the hill above the town, can also be seen from the bridge.
Puenta de la Carcel, the steep single-arched bridge between the two parts of Estella township
Exploring Estella
Once we had settled into our accommodation, we stepped outside to explore the town only to find empty streets. Spaniards enjoyed a siesta to escape the heat leaving only a few of us outdoors.
As we walked up Calle Mayor, we couldn’t help but peek inside the shop windows. Our destination was the triangular plaza, Plaza Santiago. It was only during our return walk that we realized the true significance of this main street. Upon closer inspection of the building facades and plaques on some residences, we discovered they had served as amazing palaces and houses of fine gentry in past times.
A grand palazzo on Calle Mayor in Estella
A detour halfway down Calle Mayor took us to the town’s main square, Plaza de los Fueros which was surrounded by arcaded buildings with plenty of dining establishments and another church, the Iglesia San Juan Bautista.
With the heat still bearing down, it was the perfect time to return to our lunch spot to relax over a beer and write our reflections on our day before retreating to our hotel for dinner.
An after-dinner walk found us back in the main plaza for a little people-watching. Elderly residents sat chatting on benches around the circumference of the square, while parents watched their youngsters play football on the pavement or play tag.
Our accommodation
Our hotel, Hotel Hospederia Chapitel is a lovely boutique hotel a short distance from the bridge and located right in front of the Citadel. We were delighted to find we had views of the Citadel from our spacious and comfortable room.
The hotel had a small bar with comfy armchairs by the window from where we could watch the town come alive again over a glass of wine before another delicious three-course meal in the hotel restaurant.
Walking statistics
23km
5 hours 50 minutes
Estella to Los Arcos
We were ready by 7am and our Danish hikers arrived for breakfast not long after. As others drifted in we noticed that while it wasn’t apparent in the evening before, the hotel was at capacity. Accommodation is at a premium in Pamplona during the San Fermin so many revellers stay in Estella instead. Pamplona is only a few kilometres away by car.
Views of the Iglesia de Santa Maria Jus de Castillo and the Santo Domingo convent from the Puenta de la Carcel as we left Estella
After a leisurely breakfast, we left the town by crossing the Puenta de la Carcel. We walked along the elegant main street of the old town and through the portal into suburbia. We carefully followed the Camino signage out of town and arrived at our first stop three kilometres outside of Estella.
Monasterio de Irache and the Bodegas Irache Wine Fountain
Our guidebook and daily notes made special mention of this Camino attraction. The path led us past the Bodegas Irache and to the right behind a small gate was the legendary fountain offering wine and water to modern-day pilgrims. The monks at the monastery used to make the wine, which also served as a pilgrim hospital in the early days.
The purpose of the Irache Wine Fountain
The fountain symbolises the first miracle Jesus performed, turning wine into water and was inaugurated in 1991 to commemorate 100 years of winemaking by the vineyard. The 12th-century vines surrounding the path we had just walked along supply the grapes for the wine fountain and it is tradition to fill your Camino scallop shell and drink from it. However, because it is usually still early morning when pilgrims pass by, they will often fill their water bottles to enjoy the wine later in the day.
The Bodegas Irache Wine Fountain is where pilgrims can take a sip of wine or fill up their bottles for later.
We arrived to find quite a few pilgrims at the fountain and took our place in the queue alongside a group of four loud Americans who took advantage of the free-flowing wine and filled all their drink bottles.
At 8:30 am, it was too early for us to fill more than our small water bottle caps and take a sip for the sake of custom before carrying on past the monastery a few metres further along the path. Visiting the monastery and church is possible if you arrive after 9 am.
Luquin
After passing the monastery, the path led us through a pine forest emerging to amazing views of the jagged-edged mountains in the distance before spotting the pyramid-shaped hill with a castle on top.
There is the option to detour into the small village of Villamayor de Montjardin to stay overnight if pilgrims want to make the steep climb to the top of the hill to explore the castle.
Castillo de Monjardin is sitting high on the hill and the township of Villamayor de Monjardin is visible from the Camino de Santiago path.
We continued our journey towards Los Arcos. Our walking notes told us there were few other places to stop after the monastery. We did, however, come across an unusual sight – a community swimming pool with a cafe attached in the small village of Luquin. The streets were empty. We stopped at the pool to have our morning tea of fruit as other walkers came and went around us before we continued.
The long road to Los Arcos
The path led us through dry fields and pastures for about 12km. The last section was on an exposed and long flat pathway where we trudged, exposed to the hot sun, with other pilgrims before reaching the sign announcing the town entrance.
The long flat path to Los Arcos.
Los Arcos is a small and pretty little town. Again, we found the street leading to the small main square of the old town was empty. Unsure if we would find anything substantial for lunch further on, we stopped at one of the only stores open. The small bakery sold freshly baked vegan goods. We opted for the vegan empanada and a pretty standard coffee accompanied by an apple danish which we devoured while sitting on a bench opposite the store.
Satiated and ready to find our accommodation which was a few metres further we found ourselves in a busy little square in front of the Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos where other pilgrims were having lunch outside a bar. The church was closed so we passed through the old town portal to our accommodation a few metres outside the old town walls.
The pretty little square outside the church in Los Arcos where residents and Camino pilgrims congregated.
Our accommodation
Reception at Hotel Monaco was closed and a phone call had to be to the hotel’s contact number. The owner apologised profusely for not being on-site to welcome us (there had been a death in the family) and directed us to where we could find our room keys. He also advised that instead of having dinner and breakfast in the hotel, he had arranged for us to have dinner at the bar and restaurant on the ground floor and breakfast at the small cafe across the road.
Our room was spacious but on an incredibly hot July day, we would have appreciated air conditioning or at least a fan in the room! It was cooler in the corridor than in our room. The hotel did have laundry facilities, however, for which we were grateful once we had worked out how to use the washing machine.
Our arrival routine completed we strolled back into the old town area before pre-dinner drinks and journalling in a little courtyard at the restaurant bar.
Highlights of the day
Two highlights punctuated a rather long and unremarkable day:
While having lunch and watching other walkers arrive, our friend, the cyclist from Akaretta arrived and sat on a bench next to us sharing a little of his journey. He had cycled the Camino de Santiago three or four times. This time he was taking it easy and only cycling 20-30km per day while staying in the smaller towns and stopping to explore more towns along the way.
When we wandered back into the old town in the late afternoon, our fellow walkers, the Danish couple were enjoying refreshments outside the church. They were staying at a hostel in the old town (which probably had air conditioning!). An invitation to join them and the ensuing conversation resulted in our meeting frequently along the walk and afterwards until they left us at Logrono.
Walking statistics
21km
5 hours 15 minutes
One more thing
We had found that while not intended, we had settled into an arrival routine which we continued throughout the journey:
Have some lunch.
Check-in at our accommodation.
Unroll our yoga mats for a 30-40 minute stretch yoga session (this has so far ensured that we are ready for another long walk the next day).
Unpack (the trick here is to unpack only what we need ).
Shower.
Do laundry if the facilities allow it.
Go out to explore the town/village.
In case you missed it – Walking the full Camino de Santiago
If you’d like to follow our journey from the start, read:
We were underway walking the full Camino de Santiago. With two long walking days behind us and a blissful night’s sleep in our comfortable overnight accommodation in Akarreta, Days 3 and 4 would be breezy short walks.
Day 3 – Akarreta to Pamplona
Knowing that the walking day would be short, we started the day at a leisurely pace. Breakfast was served at 8:00am so there was no rush. However, we were keen to be on our way to Pamplona because it was the first day of the annual San Fermin Festival (Running of the Bulls).
Leaving Akarreta
Fuelled by a hearty continental breakfast, we left Akarreta down a narrow track before continuing along a path full of rises and falls that snaked alongside a river.
After several kilometres, we emerged into the open air, surrounded by wheat fields. There were several small townships to pass through before we encountered a couple of short but steep descents and ascents before finding ourselves walking on a paved track that ran above the highway.
Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre and Basilica de la Sanctissima
The path descended into a small park next to the medieval bridge spanning the Argo River which has, for centuries, been the official entrance into Pamplona for pilgrims. We took a short rest in the park before crossing the Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre into Trinidad de Arre, the first suburb on the outskirts of Pamplona.
Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre
Just over the bridge on the right is Basilica de la Sanctissima Trinidad. It’s the site of a monastery and an old pilgrim hospital where weary travellers on the Camino used to stop to rest overnight. The small chapel was open and we could self-stamp our pilgrim’s passports before continuing through the outer suburbs towards the city.
Pamplona
Almost immediately we were immersed into the festivities of San Fermin. It was the first day of the festival and no bull running would occur. However, it was a public holiday and people were out celebrating.
Groups of revellers dressed in white with red neck scarves joined us and before long we merged with more crowds to cross the Puente de la Magdalena before entering the old town through the Portal de Francia.
Entering Pamplona through the Portal de Franca
As we approached Plaza Consistorial, we found the streets packed with people. Some were just milling around while others had gathered around trestle tables to eat lunch. Plaza Consistorial is home to Pamplona’s City Hall, which boasts an impressive Baroque facade.
It was almost midday, and the opening day celebrations would soon commence. The Plaza was filled with people, and the crowd had spilt into the narrow streets surrounding the square. The mood was jovial: rubber balls bounced above heads as people drank Sangria and sang at the top of their voices.
Pamplona’s San Fermin Festival is in full swing.
Fortunately, we’ve visited Pamplona before and had the opportunity to walk the bull-running route incorporating Plaza Consistorial. It’s a compact and pretty square which is better appreciated without the San Fermin crowds.
San Fermin festivities
As the clock approached midday, the excitement in the air was palpable. The San Fermin chant and the launch of mini rockets, known as “Txupinazo,” signalled the start of a week-long celebration. Excited residents and their guests gathered on the balconies of houses overlooking the crowded streets and squares. Sangria flowed freely and bucketfuls of it were poured from the balconies onto the crowds below, making navigating through the crowds challenging. Without getting drenched, we arrived in Plaza Castillo, the heart of Pamplona, to see what was happening. It was packed full of people too!
Pamplona’s Plaza del Castillo was full of revellers with barely any space to move.
With little room to move and people drinking and cheering as rockets were launched above, we managed to make our way through to the other side of the square to find a quieter square with fewer people to sit down. It became clear that we wouldn’t be able to find anywhere to have lunch in the city area, so we snacked on our provisions whilst enjoying one of our favourite travel pastimes – people-watching.
Our accommodation
Because of the Festival, our travel arrangers, UTracks had not been able to find accommodation for us in the centre of Pamplona and had instead offered to taxi us back to Akarreta and return the next morning to continue on our way. We did some independent searching and found an Ibis Styles hotel about 5km from the city where we could spend the night.
Walking a few extra kilometres
We had intended to catch a taxi to the hotel but again, it was apparent that this would be difficult so after an hour we put our backpacks on and started the walk.
The hotel was comfortable and roomy enough to unroll our yoga mats to stretch. Refreshed we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks in the covered outside area surrounded by locals and before long joined them in the restaurant for a simple and delicious seafood meal before retiring to bed to the sound of thunder and lightning and finally heavy rain.
Some discoveries on the Camino de Santiago
There were two things we discovered that afternoon:
trees along the pathways laden with ripe fruit ready for picking; and
refreshing lemon beer.
We would enjoy both on the remainder of our Camino.
The highlight of the day
Stumbling through an interview with a TV reporter while sitting on a park bench. Asked about what we thought of the festival, we used our rusty Spanish and plenty of gesturing to indicate our excitement of being in Pamplona during the San Fermin festivities.
One more thing
While some of us may not support bullfighting, there is much to be said about the atmosphere and euphoria of being in Pamplona during the fiesta and witnessing the festivities on the day before the actual bull running commences. It was an experience to remember.
Walking statistics
15km plus a further 5.7km to our hotel
5 hours including our stop in Pamplona
Day 4 – Pamplona to Puenta de la Reina
Eager to be on the move we watched the build-up to the first bull run on the TV as we ate breakfast in the cafe where we had dinner the evening before. Hotel reception called a taxi to take us for a 9-minute drive to the small township of Cizur Menor, the starting point for our day’s walk.
The taxi driver was chatty on the short drive and left with a little extra in his pocket. The total cost was 18 euros. We knew he had overcharged us!
Cizur Menor
We exited the taxi and met a Camino walker and chatted while walking through the quiet streets of Cizur Menor. Our fellow pilgrim had started her walk in Normandy. Leaving her to continue at her leisurely pace, we soon came across another pilgrim picking plums from a tree on the side of the path. He offered us some telling us that they would give us the energy and nutrients to carry us through the day. They were delicious and oozing with sweetness.
Wheat fields leading to the small hamlet of Zariquiegui
Soon we were walking amongst vast fields of wheat and sunflowers with their heads turned in unison towards the sun. The scenery was stunning as we climbed towards the small township of Zariquiegui (pop 162). Our guidebook told us that it was the ideal spot to stop for a rest before the steep climb to Alto du Perdon.
The Camino path to Alto del Perdon after leaving the small hamlet of Zariquiegui
Leaving the Zariquigui, the trail became steeper, gravely and muddier because of the overnight rainfall. On our slow and steady climb, we came upon an old local out walking with his dog (this is the middle of nowhere), another set of pilgrims who looked like a mother and daughter to whom we wished “Buen Camino” as we manoeuvred past them and a trail bike rider who roared past us just as we reached the summit. Where did he come from?
Alto del Perdon
The sculptures on the ridge at Alto du Perdon (height of forgiveness) were a welcome sight. We’d been told it can get quite gusty on the ridge – but we are lucky, the winds are moderate and views across the slopes and fields below are splendid.
The famous Monument to the Pilgrim sculptures on Alto del Perdon
Previously, the ridge was home to a Basilica and a hospital for pilgrims. Nowadays, these structures have been replaced by the famous metal sculptures of past and present pilgrims. Some of the sculptures depict pilgrims walking, while others show them riding horses or donkeys.
The climb down was slower and more difficult. We navigated down a slippery and steeper trail of stone, gravel and plenty of uneven crevices and were left astounded when a young couple strode past us without hiking poles, one in trainers and the other in sandals!
Urtega
Once on the flat, a scenic path led past a prominent Camino landmark. A marble sculpture of Mary stands in a shaded spot with benches to rest on. The benches were full of pilgrims resting after coming down the arduous path.
The small town of Urtega wasn’t too far away so we carried on to take our break there.
There was not a soul in sight walking through Urtega. Nor did we see any cafes. Finally, we stumbled across a hostel with a cafe attached selling fruit so seized the opportunity to collect some sustenance
Muruzabai
With no seating, parks or shade in sight, we carried on walking a short distance to the small village, of Muruzabai to find the perfect spot to sit under the shade of trees loaded with ripe cherry plums next to the village church. Voices from the church verandah reveal the trainers and sandals couple chatting to another young pilgrim.
The quiet streets of Urtega were brightened with pots of bright blooms of hydrangeas
Obanos
Sufficiently rested and with our pilgrim’s passports stamped at the church we moved on along a prettier wildflower-lined path to Obanos. Again, we noticed just a few residents outside as we passed through the charming town: an elderly man sitting on a park bench reading his newspaper; a group of very young children struggling with a table, chair and bags full of goods who look like they are going to set up a stall by the church nearby; and a young family walking near the church.
The large central square in Obanos and the imposing Inglesia de San Juan Bautista
Puenta de la Reina
It was becoming warmer, and our destination wasn’t far away. Puenta de la Reina and our hotel sprung upon us after we navigated a trail past a few large vegetable patches.
We walked past our hotel for another 10 minutes into the main town for lunch. The streets were deserted apart from a few pilgrims like us. Shops were closed. There was a bar opposite a small square set up for a local bull run which offered a hearty salad lunch (always served with freshly baked bread) which we enjoyed with our now customary lemon beer.
Calle Mayor is the main street of Puenta de la Reina and holds significance for pilgrims. The Inglesia de San Pedro which is located on the street holds a sculpture of one of Europe’s Black Madonnas.
Back at the hotel, we refreshed ourselves after our yoga session and washed our clothes in the coin-operated washing machine, before sitting in the bar area to reflect on our day over a cold beer while a short rainstorm passed over.
The sun was out after dinner, allowing us to return to the town to explore the alleyways and look at the churches, and the beautiful 11th-century seven-arched Roman bridge, an icon of the Camino, after which the town is named.
The beautiful 11th century bridge, Puenta de la Reina which we crossed over to leave the city on Day 5 to carry on our journey
Walking back through the main street of the town, we saw a few familiar faces from the trail, including a couple we saw at our hotel Roncesvalles.
The highlight of the day
Having a short conversation with Jens and Kirsten outside a tapas bar which marked the beginning of a friendship that accompanied us on our walk to Logrono (where they completed their pilgrimage). The friendship has continued beyond our time on the Camino de Santiago now that we are back in our respective home countries.
Some of our most unforgettable memories were created not only by the places we visited and saw but also by the people we met along the way and the impact they had on our journey. Stay tuned to learn about our chance encounters and observations as our journey progresses.
Walking statistics
18km
5 hours
Everything you need to know about walking the full Camino de Santiago
Contemplating completing all or part of the Camino de Santiago? Learn everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago here.
If you’d like to read how our accounts of Days 1 and 2 of the Camino de Santiago, have a look at this post.
Our aim is to inspire. If you enjoyed this post, please feel free to share:
On a trip to Spain a few years ago, we visited Santiago de Compostela. Roaming the historic district, we saw pilgrims who had just completed the Camino de Santiago. Despite carrying heavy backpacks, they arrived at Obradoiro Square with unwavering determination. Exhaustion on their faces turned into pure joy as they approached the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Piqued by our curiosity about what makes this place so unique, we decided to embark on the 780km journey ourselves. If you’re considering taking on this incredible journey, we’re pleased to be able to tell you everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago.
A little history on walking the Camino de Santiago
Whether you know it as the Camino de Santiago, Camino Frances, the French Way or The Way of St James, the Camino has existed for more than 1000 years as a Christian pilgrimage route.
During medieval times, the Camino was renowned as one of the top three Christian pilgrimages. Pilgrims followed the route to Santiago de Compostela, where legend tells that the remains of Saint James lie in the Cathedral. Saint James is said to have played a crucial role in spreading the religion throughout the Iberian Peninsula.
Traditionally, the Camino began on the pilgrim’s doorstep, wherever that was. However, today, for most pilgrims, it more commonly starts in the small village of St. Jean Pied de Port in southern France and follows several routes to finish in Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain.
The medieval pilgrim undertook the arduous pilgrimage for religious reasons seeking forgiveness for their sins or to ask for assistance in some way. You do not have to be a Christian pilgrim to complete the walk. Today, the modern pilgrim undertakes the walk for a range of reasons – religious, spiritual, historical, cultural or just the physical challenge.
How was the route created?
Our research suggests that the route was originally conveyed by word of mouth. Pilgrims provided each other with advice on the best route and which places to stop at. Over time, this developed into a well-trodden route from which Book V of the Codex Calixtinus: A Guide for the Traveller evolved in the 12th century.
After medieval times, pilgrimage decreased in popularity mainly due to religious wars and reformation. Pilgrims continued to walk the Camino, however, the numbers completing the journey were nowhere near the 250,000 people that undertook the journey annually.
A resurgence in interest in the Camino pilgrimage came about in the 1980s when Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, the priest of the Galician village of O Cebreiro, marked the ancient route with yellow arrows so that pilgrims could easily find the way. And, so the modern-day Camino was born. Today, over 400,000 individuals from all corners of the world walk the Camino de Santiago every year.
Pilgrims undertaking the Camino from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. One of the busiest portions of the Camino de Santiago
Everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago
Do you have to walk the whole of the Camino de Santiago?
You do not have to be a Christian pilgrim to complete the walk, neither do you have to complete the full Camino de Santiago.
We met many time-poor walkers who completed the 780km walk in portions over years during vacations or finished the final 100km from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela for the pilgrim’s certificate.
If you’re interested in nature and experiencing the beautiful Spanish countryside, again, there are many options available on where to start and stop. Rail and bus services are available to the larger towns and cities on the Camino trail, making them perfect to commence and finish from without having to walk the full distance.
We decided to undertake the complete route over 38 days, which included an extra night each in the two cities we had not visited before: Logrono and Leon, allowing us time to explore them more comprehensively. For those who have more time and prefer not to pre-book accommodation, there is ample opportunity to extend the walk to however long you wish.
When to go
Most guidebooks recommend doing the walk during the more pleasant cooler months, typically between April and June or September to November. Winter months, bring snow to some parts of the track, and most accommodations close down for the winter. If you intend to do the walk during the recommended months it’s important to book your accommodation early and be aware that the trail may be heavily congested at times.
If you are not concerned about hot weather, the trail is less crowded during the European summer months of July and August. While you will still find other pilgrims on the way there will be fewer of them. Be prepared to make earlier starts to your walking day to ensure that you are not walking during the hottest part of the day.
Note: We walked the Camino in July and early August and encountered several hot days. By commencing earlier in the morning we ensured that we had completed walking before the hottest part of the day which is usually after 3pm in the north of Spain. Walking during this time of the year ensured there were fewer rainy days which we preferred over the heat.
Where to stay when walking the Camino de Santiago
Accommodation on the Camino is available for all budgets, from traditional albergues to luxury hotels and everything in between depending on the size of the township.
Albergues
Albergues (hostels) are the traditional accommodation on the Camino. They are based on the medieval pilgrim hospitals which offered simple overnight lodgings at minimal cost. The accommodation is normally communal with shared dormitories and facilities and available for one night only.
The Albergue in the small hamlet of San Juan de Ortega is attached to the church and old monastery
Albergues are widely used by walkers looking for flexibility in their daily walking distances because they cannot be booked ahead of time and are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. If the hostel at your preferred overnight destination is fully booked when you arrive, you can walk further to the next town or return to the last town you passed to try your luck. The upside is that there are plenty of albergues on the Camino route.
Guesthouses/Casa Rurales
The Casa Rural where we stayed overnight in Rabanal del Camino
In Spain, “Casa Rurales” are small, family-run accommodations located in towns where there are no hotels available. These are unique boutique places to stay that offer an authentic Spanish experience, where old homes have been restored to retain the architecture of the area. Along the Camino, they are the perfect way to experience the local way of life, traditional foods, and hospitality. Casas usually have a few bedrooms, each with private bathroom facilities, and the hosts provide breakfasts and dinners.
Hotels
On the Camino, you’ll find hotels in the larger towns and there’s usually one to suit all budgets. Like most other countries they range on a scale of one to five stars. You’ll see the star rating on a sign at the entrance along with a capital “H”, the sign indicating that the accommodation is a hotel.
Our very comfortable and modern hotel in the picturesque town of Molinaseca
Slightly smaller towns may have hotel accommodations but they may not be highly starred. All of them do, however, provide basic amenities and are comfortable enough if you are only staying overnight.
Paradores
Spain is well known for its Paradores, premium luxury accommodations converted from castles and monasteries. A few are located on the Camino trail, mainly former monasteries, where you can book accommodation. They’re a great way to live within the monastic surroundings and often have spectacular cloisters that are only accessible to guests.
The Monasterio de San Zoilo where we enjoyed an overnight stay
Where we stayed on our Camino experience
We had the wonderful opportunity to stay in various accommodations on our Camino experience. While we didn’t stay in the traditional shared accommodation in albergues, in small towns without options, we stayed in private rooms with our facilities located next to or within albergues. The facilities were clean and comfortable, and the meals provided were of excellent quality and quantity.
In larger towns, our hotel offerings ranged between 3 and 4 stars and were conveniently situated in the town centre so we could explore after arrival.
We took the opportunity to upgrade our accommodation to Paradores or equivalents at several destinations and all provided unique and excellent experiences. Read more about them by following our journey.
The terrain
The Camino is a beautiful trail that offers a mix of terrain and scenery. You’ll walk on pavements and tracks through pastures, forests and on flat tracks, as well as alongside roads. However, be prepared for some challenging mountainous terrain, with several steep ascents and descents. Despite the difficulty, the breathtaking views from the peaks make it worth it. The rolling hills and stunning scenery of Spain make it a unique and unforgettable experience.
Stunning scenery on reaching the summit at O’Cebreiro
Preparation and equipment you’ll need
Preparation is key for a satisfying Spanish Camino experience, regardless of distance. An adequate level of fitness is necessary.
Your Footwear
Most important are the walking shoes you decide to wear. Many hikers find they are comfortable completing the journey in regular sports shoes while others will use more sturdier hiking shoes or boots. During the summer months, some walkers will use hiking sandals. Whichever type of footwear you decide to use, you should wear them in. The best way to do this is to use them in your pre-walk training with good socks, which breathe well and are blister-proof.
Camino walk days will vary between 20-30km so it’s also important to prepare your body for the task of getting up to walk for good lengths of time day after day and varying terrain between flat and steeper and rockier hill tracks.
We used La Sportiva hiking shoes for our journey and took an extra pair of trainers as a backup. Our La Sportiva took us the full distance to Santiago de Compostella. While there was no tread left on the soles of the shoes when we reached Santiago de Compostella they provided sturdy footing through final climbs and descents.
Hiking Poles or not?
Hiking poles can be a great support and assist with your footing, especially when you’re trekking up and down steep tracks. However, it’s important to consider the weight of the poles before purchasing them. You should also consider how much you think you will need them as it will determine whether you should opt for collapsible poles or not. We noticed that some people used hiking poles consistently on flat terrain, while others used them mainly for steeper climbs and descents. On the other hand, some preferred to hike without poles altogether.
We found our poles extremely useful and used them consistently finding them extremely useful for stability on the steeper descents and assistance on the ascents. The poles also provided an opportunity to include an upper-body workout when we used them on the flat. Our poles were collapsible and purchased from Decathlon which we could store on the side of our daypacks to pull out for use whenever we found the necessity.
Your Backpack
The backpack you decide to use will be determined by whether you wish to walk with a full backpack containing all your belongings or just a daypack with just the daily essentials.
If you decide to walk with a full backpack it is good to know that the trail is well supported where accommodations and townships provide laundry facilities so you do not need to overpack with extra items. To ensure safety and enjoyment of the walk our research indicates that you should not carry more than 10-15% of your body weight.
You can arrange to have your luggage transferred daily to your next accommodation, lightening your load and making your journey more comfortable. Many companies offer this service along the Camino route, and you can use it whenever you need to take a break or travel light.
We decided to take advantage of the transfer facility to allow us the pleasure of enjoying the Camino experience. Our lightweight High Sierra mini backpacks were compact and with enough room to store the belongings, we needed to carry for a day’s walk.
Be weather prepared
The Camino’s weather can vary, so be prepared with a rain jacket and backpack cover for a comfortable walk.
Summer weather can be unpredictable on the pilgrimage. The south of France and the last stage from Sarria can be particularly unpredictable. Northern Spain can be cool in the early mornings during summer, so we used rain jackets as an extra layer of protection for the first hour of the morning. After that, we could fold them away.
Wayfinding
One of the benefits of the revival of the Camino Frances route is that the entire path is now well-identified by the legendary scallop shell symbol. Posts with the symbol and distance to Santiago de Compostela line the route with yellow arrows on footpaths and sides of buildings to guide pilgrims in navigating through the larger cities.
Wayfinding on the Camino de Santiago
There are a few mobile phone apps available that provide maps, guidance on the terrain, real-time alerts and information on the villages, towns and cities you will visit along with information on accommodation availability.
Our travel arranger provided us with details notes in small booklet form which we could carry in our backpacks. We found, however, that the signage was so good that we only had to refer to the booklets a few times. In larger cities, Google Maps sufficed to help us find our accommodation and we did not use an app.
Our guidebook was incredibly helpful during our journey. It provided information on every place we visited and helped us prepare for each day’s walk. This is a must-have for anyone planning to travel the Camino independently.
Services and facilities on the route
Food and drink
Cafes and bars appear often as you pass through small towns on the track where you can stop for coffee, top up on water and have a bite to eat. It’s always good to be prepared though by carrying small snacks to sustain you along. We always had either a protein bar or a small bag of nuts in our backpack. And, if available, we picked up a piece of fruit at breakfast to eat on the way.
Temporary cafes are set up for pilgrims on the longer stretches where there are no other facilities
If you’re looking for a meal at the end of the day, many restaurants and albergues on the Camino offer a “Pilgrims menu” which is a three-course meal consisting of a starter, main and dessert. Prices will vary depending on the quality of the restaurant. Our package also included a bottle of local wine every evening with our meal.
Restrooms
There are no public restrooms on the Camino. The best option, if you need to visit a bathroom is to buy a snack or drink at a cafe and use their facilities.
Things to remember when walking the Camino de Santiago
Pilgrim’s Credential and Compostela
Your Compostela is the official certificate recognising the completion of the Camino de Santiago or at least 100km. The Compostela certificate is issued at the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago de Compostela not far from the Cathedral.
To earn your Compostela you need to have a Pilgrim’s Credential, also known as Pilgrim’s Passport. This Passport is a folded card that has space for you to have your journey stamped along the way. The document should be stamped at least twice a day and there are many places where you can have your card stamped, such as churches, cathedrals, monuments, tourist information points, cafes, and accommodations. Each stamp is unique to the establishment and serves as a great memory of the places you’ve visited along the way.
If you’re starting the Camino in St. Jean Pied de Port, you can collect your Passport from the Pilgrim’s Office there for a couple of Euros. You’ll also find many shops, churches, albergues and hotels selling them on the route.
The Passport doesn’t have an expiry date so if you’re completing the Camino in stages over time, you can continue to use it until you have reached Santiago de Compostela.
Collect your scallop shell
The scallop shells are considered a significant symbol of the pilgrimage, and you can spot them everywhere, including on the route waymarkers. Though not mandatory, it is a common practice among pilgrims to attach a scallop shell to their backpacks to identify themselves as pilgrims on the Camino. You can either bring a scallop shell from home or purchase one from the Welcome Office in St. Jean Pied de Port before commencing your journey, or from one of the many stalls or shops along the way.
Camino etiquette
It is important to remember that all hikers in the Camino are travelling at their own pace. Some walk faster or slower than others. On narrower tracks, it’s polite to step aside to where you can to allow fellow pilgrims to pass by acknowledging you with the Camino greeting “Buen Camino”.
“Buen Camino” has varying meanings on the Camino. It’s used as a hello, goodbye, or have a good walk. The greeting feels like a form of comradeship between pilgrims undertaking the journey.
You’ll find not only pilgrims using the greeting between themselves. Locals will bid you “Buen Camino” as you pass them in the streets in small villages and towns or as you leave a cafe or store.
One thing to be mindful of is that many walkers are on their own journey and may want to walk part or even the whole Camino in solitude. It is important to respect each pilgrim.
The Camino is not a “race”
If you want to complete the Camino de Santiago and reach Santiago de Compostela safely and without injury, it’s important to pace yourself each and every day. Remember you will be getting up to walk another 20-30km again the next day. We were fortunate to complete the Camino without injury or the dreaded blisters that haunt many a pilgrim.
Our simple tactic was to ensure we used our hiking poles when climbing but more importantly on the steep descents, we stopped regularly to rest and take our shoes and socks off to allow our feet to breathe and, every day, no matter how tired we were, we unrolled our travel yoga mats to complete 30-40 minutes of yoga and stretching.
Another benefit of taking it slow is being able to notice the small things happening around you, enjoy the experience and capture moments which become lifelong memories.
Our travel arrangers
For peace of mind, we decided to engage travel arrangers, UTracks to complete arrangements on our behalf for the Camino portion of our travel. UTracks are an arm of the World Expeditions Group specialising in active travel.
UTracks and their Spanish partners, Tee Travel provided us with a suggested self-guided walking itinerary with recommendations for extra night stays to allow us time to explore the larger cities and their attractions and then tailored our Camino walk to our requirements. The package included accommodation, breakfasts and dinners, transfers back to the accommodation at the end of the day and return to the start point the next day where adequate accommodation was unavailable in smaller towns, trip notes, luggage transfers, pilgrim’s passport and emergency hotline.
We cannot recommend them highly enough.
Want to know more
We’ve tried to include as much general information as we can above. If there is anything we haven’t covered and if you have specific questions when considering or preparing to undertake the walk, we are more than happy to provide more information from our experience. Visit our Contact Us page for our contact details.
If you’d like to know more, follow our journey from Day 1where we share our daily experiences walking the Camino de Santiago
