All good things must come to an end. After the perfect combination of rest, relaxation and exploring in northern Queensland, the return trip had to be made. Our drive south was not going to be boring, there was more to see in our backyard. If you haven’t read about our journey north, read Part One for our recommendations on places to visit on the way north first, and you will have everything you need to discover beautiful Queensland, Australia.
Beautiful Mission Beach
Having heard so much about Mission Beach’s raw beauty, we were looking forward to our stay. The small township of Mission Beach on the Cassowary Coast is a three hour drive from Port Douglas and renowned for two things.
Its close proximity to the Great Barrier Reef.
Its 14km of palm lined golden sand beach.
There are no glitzy bars, cafes and restaurants or walking promenades in Mission Beach. The small village atmosphere makes it the perfect getaway from simply everything! Be prepared to slow down right down and be captivated by its natural beauty. On our late afternoon walk we were surprised to find that we had the whole beach almost to ourselves sharing it with a sole walker we could just spot in the distance. Stopping to watch a pod of whales playing in the waters just off the shore was a delight. There are few places where you can have kilometres of golden sand all to yourself!
Golden sand for kilometres at Mission Beach
Dunk Island is a short water taxi ride away to take advantage of the walking trails or take the scenic drive along the coast road to tiny settlement of Bingil Bay and pop into Bingil Bay Café for lunch or dinner.
Discover Airlie Beach
Airlie Beach is the gateway to the idyllic Whitsunday Islands and the Great Barrier Reef. The town and its own beauty are often overlooked by tourists using it only as a base or launching point to the islands. We decided avoid the islands and stay in Airlie Beach to appreciate this laid back town.
We had found the township bustling with backpackers and holidaymakers on a previous visit. Not this time! The streets were deserted because of travel restrictions. With school holidays due to start we hoped that vacationers would make their way to the area. It’s a great place to take the family. Note that most beaches are out of bounds from November to May because the waters are full of box jellyfish. Their sting can be life-threatening. To counter this, one of Airlie Beach’s attractions is the large family friendly beach side lagoon area so you swim safely while enjoying the gorgeous views.
The spectacular water views along Bicentennial Coastal Walkway, Airlie Beach
By now you’ve guessed that we love to walk! There are a number of hiking trails to choose from in the area including some catering for the bushwalker in the Conway National Our favourite is the Bicentennial Coastal Walkway. The walk, for us, started from our accommodation at the Mantra Boathouse at the marina just outside of the town centre. Officially starting at the Lagoon, the 4 kilometre walkway meanders mostly along the water’s edge as far as Cannonvale Beach showcasing beautiful ocean views. Take a brisk morning walk or a more leisurely evening stroll pausing for a cocktail or meal at the bars and restaurants at Abell Point.
Views along the Bicentennial Coastal Walkway
For another viewpoint, take the short drive to Coral Point at Shute Harbour for views out over the Whitsunday Passage and the islands. And, if you’re up for it, walk up to the lookout at Mount Rooper for more spectacular views.
Views over Shute Harbour passage
The hidden gems of Gladstone
A few days of rest and recreation in Airlie Beach prepared us for the final days of our road trip.
The road into Gladstone portrayed the town’s main purpose. Home to Queensland’s largest multi-commodity port, the landscape was littered with overhead and on-ground rail tracks for shunting goods to the port.
The town isn’t to be underestimated. It provides easy access to the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, and to Heron and Wilson Islands or visitors can take the short ferry ride just off shore to Curtis Island to explore a combination of the lush National Park and the pristine beaches.
Beautiful views from Auckland Hill Lookout, Gladstone
Wanting to stay on dry land? The town offers a small heritage walk. There are few historic buildings in the town but the centre is full of its own unique character with a small heritage walk to follow. We wandered around the backstreets on the outskirts of the town centre finding beautiful Queenslander homes with veranda views over the port. Our meandering eventually found us at Auckland Point Lookout which gives a panorama of the harbour and beyond. Be sure to look up at the wall by the cafe for a little inspiration.
Steps leading down from the Lookout brought us to the East Shores Precinct. The parklands have a waterpark, picnic and barbeque areas, and a waterfront boardwalk. An impressive feature of the precinct is how well the site’s original industrial heritage has been incorporated into the waterfront. Signage along the boardwalk gives a detailed guide of the area’s previous function and history.
The historic past is well displayed at Gladstone’s East Coast Shores Precinct
Looking for more to see around the Gladstone region? The towns of Tannum Sands, Agnes Waters, Seventeen Seventy are all great places to explore and only a short drive away.
Our recommendations
We punctuated the six hour drive from Airlie Beach to Gladstone with a stopover for lunch in Rockhampton. With more time we agree that we would have enjoyed staying a few days in the city. The heart of the city centre boasts wide and the leafy streets with beautiful old buildings. A delight to stroll along!
The beautiful architecture in centre of Rockhampton
Where we stayed
Castaways Resort and Spa at Mission Beach boasts rooms and apartments from where you can step into beautiful gardens with direct access to the 14 kilometre beach. Quiet and secluded but right in the centre of Mission Beach, Castaways is a wonderful place to slow down pace and get away from it all.
Absolute beachfront. Our stay at Castaways Resort.
The Mantra Boathouse Apartments in Airlie Beach was perfect for our midway stay. All apartments have balconies with spectacular views over the marina and beyond to the Coral Sea. The apartments are a short walking distance from town but far away enough to make it feel like we were in our own little world. We were content to while away our time reading and getting takeout for dinner to enjoy on the balcony between our sightseeing jaunts around the vicinity.
Views from our balcony at Mantra Boathouse, Airlie Beach
Not far from the centre of Gladstone, we stayed at the Mercure Gladstone. Our hotel room was well furnished with a private balcony and the hotel is conveniently attached to the local sports club where we had breakfast and enjoyed pre-dinner drinks. Make sure you have a look at their beautiful art corner featuring local artists.
Where we ate
Mission Beach – We dined at Bibesia restaurant at the Castaways Resort. The staff were friendly and attentive offering us a seafront table. The menu offers fresh local produce.
Gladstone – The Dock at East Shores is a wonderful spot for a relaxed dinner – delicious seasonal food combined with spectacular night-time port views make it a “must do” when you visit this down to earth town.
Everything you need to discover beautiful Queensland!
2020 became the year of no International travel. Restrictions changed our original travel plans. “That’s okay, we’ll see more of our country. Driving holidays are the best way to see your backyard”, we thought.
It was not long before our plans had to change again. No interstate travel either! Instead of an interstate road trip, we decided our holidays were not only going to be shorter this year, but we were also going to have to be satisfied with travelling within our backyard. Lucky we have a huge backyard!
Queensland is a large state with much natural beauty. It’s home to the Great Barrier Reef, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, an unspoilt coastline and luscious rainforests. Visitors from the rest of Australia and overseas come to marvel at the state’s beautiful offerings.
“You’re driving to Port Douglas?”. Some were astounded that we would choose to drive when it is easier to fly.
“The inland route or coastal?”, was the next question. Driving through Queensland’s interior would be a good experience, however, we are drawn to the coastal road enabling us to drive shorter distances and stopovers in both smaller and larger towns.
Contrary to its name, the Pacific Coast Highway (also known as the A1 or Bruce Highway) doesn’t run entirely along the coastline. The road runs a little inland most of the way between sugar cane and banana plantations, mango orchards and flat lands nipping alongside the sea every now and then.
We found many spectacular spots (often by chance), and stayed mostly in the main centres.
Bargara
A small seaside settlement a short distance from Bundaberg, Bargara is 375 kilometres from Brisbane and the perfect first overnight stop.
With a chance to experience the best of both worlds, we arrived with plenty of time to stroll along the banks of the Burnett River and the deserted streets of Bundaberg. Known for its famous rum and ginger beer, tours are available at both distillers. We opted to absorb the atmosphere and architecture of the city by walking around the town before driving to The Hummock lookout between Bundaberg and Bargara, overlooking the vast countryside which is the food bowl of Queensland.
Other highlights are found on our walk the next morning. The Coral Coast Pathway leads along the Esplanade to the swimming basin built by indentured Kanaka labourers who worked on the sugar cane farms from 1863 to the early 1900s, then further on the Mon Repos trail which is home to the largest concentration of nesting turtles on the east coast of Australia. A “Good morning” by everyone we passed on the path was a sign of how welcoming the community here is to visitors.
One of the small coves along the Bargara seafront
Yeppoon
On the Capricorn Coast, Yeppoon boasts an esplanade lined with chic boutiques and beaches with great views of nearby Keppel Island. The quiet laidback atmosphere attracts weekenders from nearby Rockhampton and travellers like us from further afield.
Preferring to be more active than sitting on the beach, we were spoilt for choice with a number of walks in Byford National Park.
We spent an afternoon walking up the Double Head Track to two lookouts with breathtaking views over Rosslyn Bay Harbour, the Keppel Islands and Byfield National Park. While the views are enough of a drawcard, the track itself is a highlight taking walkers along paths lined with fig trees and fauna which change to open grasslands leading to the remnants of a volcano. The trail is steep in parts and takes 40-60 minutes depending on fitness level and the paths are very well laid. If you’re a photographer, the walk is definitely worth the effort.
Splendid views from Bluff Head in Yeppoon
Another walk we had hoped to do was the Bluff Point Walking Track. This shorter trail promised views out to the hinterland, along the coastline and the Keppel Bay Islands. The morning sky was grey as we followed the route towards what we thought was the entry point only to find ourselves amidst a new housing development on the rise. Despite the fantastic views, the clouds were darkening so we decided to turn back. Our timing was not perfect, the skies opened up and we got drenched on the way back to the foreshore. Almost on queue, the sun came out as we sat down for breakfast.
Mackay
The drive to Mackay was flanked by sugar cane fields and not much else so the highlight was arriving in the city in time for lunch. There are few people out on the streets and many shops are closed. We’re unsure if this is normal!
We don’t waste time and are off to find the Botanic Gardens from where we connect to the Bluewater Trail. Twenty kilometres of cycling and walking tracks meander along the Pioneer River through riverside wetlands, along the environmental walk past some of the city’s main attractions. A number of art installations can be found on the way to the endpoint at Bluewater Lagoon water park just minutes from the city centre.
The nature walk and cycleway in Mackay
Townsville
Our early arrival gives us plenty of time to get a feel for the coastal scene. Castle Hill is Townsville’s gem, providing visitors and locals alike with wonderful vistas over the city. Access to Castle Hill was only minutes away from our accommodation, and yes, we could have walked up. With no dedicated walking trail to the top and our priority to take an oceanfront walk later, we drove up and walked from lookout to lookout to remind us of how much more there was to this city.
Drive or walk up Castle Hill for expansive views across Townsville’s coastline
The real walk is along The Strand, up to Kissing Point and Jezzine Park and Barracks. The Strand is a relaxed walking and bicycling path along the foreshore and many locals are out for their evening walks. Even in the gusty conditions, it’s great to see so many people enjoying the facilities. Families are sheltering strategically with their takeaway fish and chips, couples are strolling with their prams, and runners too are out in force.
Jezzine Park and Barracks sit on and around the lookout at the end of the Strand boardwalk and are an important part of Townville’s history. It is a precinct created to commemorate the city’s military and Aboriginal heritage and worthy of a visit.
Jezzine Barracks Park
In the blustery conditions, we stop to watch a lone kayaker bravely try to get himself upright in the water before admitting defeat and returning to the shore. Likewise, we battle the wind back to our apartment to enjoy the views from the comfort of our sheltered balcony.
Cairns
The scenery changes. Everything is green. Sugar cane crops slowly give way to hillsides covered in lush rainforests.
A light drizzle that’s accompanied us into the city disappears after we have checked into our accommodation and we make the most of an afternoon walk along the esplanade discussing plans for our next couple of days in the city detouring through the Night Markets on the way back.
The varying scenery you’ll find along the esplanade in Cairns
A day in the Atherton Tablelands
The next morning dawns bright and sunny, perfect for our drive into the hinterland.
We’re headed over the range to Mareeba, a small rural town in the Atherton Tablelands region. The area is known as the food bowl of the tropics and produces 70% of Australia’s coffee crop and beautiful fruit wine.
About 45 minutes easy drive from Cairns we divert for a walk to Barron Falls. The pretty rainforest canopy trail ends at a lookout to the waterfalls. It’s springtime and the water trickles over the edge at the moment and will become a spectacular torrent in the wet season.
Beautiful Barron Falls
Back on the Kennedy Highway, we drive past mango orchards, fruit farms, and tea and coffee plantations towards Mareeba. We’re disappointed to find Jacques Coffee plantation is closed (a result of the decline in tourism from the pandemic). We had hoped to take a tour.
We carry on to the next best option. Coffee Works has a number of small outlets throughout northern Queensland but Mareeba was where it all began. In what can be best described as a rustic shed a couple of minutes out of Mareeba town centre, a visit to this boutique roaster is a delight for the senses. Bins containing an array of coffee beans line the entrance to the gift and antique store. Further inside is a chocolaterie where up to 50 different chocolates are made. Ready to taste their signature coffee, we order and are kindly treated to a complimentary tasting of their divine chocolate and coffee liqueurs.
Inside Coffee Works gift store at Mareeba
There is one more stop to make on the leisurely drive back to Cairns. de Brueys is a boutique winery a few kilometres out of Mareeba. Set among mango orchards and surrounded by nature, de Brueys specialise in tropical fruit wines and ports. A visit to their cellar door ensures we leave with a bottle of one of their signature lychee wines. A fruitful day in the Tablelands.
A day trip to Fitzroy Island
Fitzroy Island is larger but quieter than our other option, Green Island. Green Island has more to offer tourists and family groups with plenty of shops, cafes and tours. We have been there before as a family. Fitzroy Island, however, is the better choice if you’re looking to share the shoreline and tracks with fewer people and not travel too far from Cairns.
Crystal clear waters greet our arrival as we disembark the ferry in front of Fitzroy Resort. People are snorkelling and relaxing beachside. Our main aim of this visit is to walk to the summit so we start up straight away. The track is initially through the lush rain forest which slowly transforms into a rocky but well-laid out path uphill. We are amazed to meet only one other person on the trail. She is on the way back down. The climb up is relatively easy but we anticipate a slower trip down because of the rocky landscape.
The captivating views from the walking trail to the summit on Fitzroy Island
Reaching the summit we are delighted to find only two other people at the lookout. Once they leave we are left to enjoy the expansive views on our own. It is truly spectacular!
As we are reluctantly preparing to make our descent, another couple appears. They tell us that we can take descend via another route with a stop at the old lighthouse. The walk is narrower and steeper in some places and the reward is a break at the lighthouse to enjoy the wonderful views out to sea before taking the steep, but paved trek down to the beach.
There’s more to see beachside. Further scrambling for about 15 minutes along a track and over boulders takes us to the highlight of Fitzroy Island. Nudey Beach is a small stretch of white sand where the clear waters gently lap the shoreline. Secluded and quiet it is the perfect place to swim and appreciate the views of Cairns hinterland. We, however, like the few others who have ventured here, do not swim. It is a little windy and too cold for us. It’s only spring!
The golden sand and crystal clear waters at Nudey Beach
Port Douglas
Our Saturday morning starts with joining walkers and family groups along the esplanade and at Rusty’s Market in Cairns. The market is a feast for the eyes with stalls full of tropical fruit and fresh vegetables and we indulge in buying some Mareeba red pawpaw.
By lunchtime, we are in Port Douglas having driven along one of the most amazing stretches of our road trip hugging the coastline.
We’re staying at Peppers Beach Club, metres from the hub of this town, Macrossan Street. Quiet and laidback, it’s the perfect place for a little rest and relaxation before we embark on our return journey to Brisbane.
The highlight of Port Douglas is Four Mile Beach, a long stretch of white sand beach which is actually four kilometres long. One of the best places to appreciate it is from above at the summit on Flagstaff Hill. Our favourite view is from partway up the stairway to the top. From Flagstaff Hill, you can go back down and carry on along the one-and-a-half-kilometre walking trail linking to Rex Smeal Park. The trail provides sweeping views of the Coral Sea. We complete our walk to end up in the middle of the Sunday markets, a pleasant way to spend an hour or two wandering through the stalls before walking a little further to the marina area.
Spectacular Four Mile Beach
A short 20-minute drive from Port Douglas is the lush Daintree Rainforest. The best way to experience it is by taking a walk in it at Mosman Gorge. We enjoyed its beauty with a self-guided walk along the popular circuit trail. For a more informed visit, take advantage of the guided tours. Whichever way, it is a must-do. Enjoy walking under the canopy of the rainforest under the eye of the surrounding mountains stopping at the waterfalls along the way. A great way to spend an afternoon.
One of the beautiful rainforest walking trails in Mosman Gorge
Our recommendations
Some of our favourite places to break up the drive
Many small spots captured our attention as we drove and were perfect for short driving breaks. We were delighted at finding so many! Following are just some of our recommendations.
Cooroy Not far on our way out of Brisbane, we hit a traffic jam which worked in our favour. It allowed us to detour off the motorway for a stop in Cooroy to avoid sitting in traffic. We arrived during the mid-morning hustle and bustle to find charming old buildings some of which have been restored as interactive historical education spaces. We wandered through the old butter factory art centre and will return for a day trip to explore the heritage trail and other attractions nearby.
The old butter factory in Cooroy has been converted into an arts centre promoting local artists
Seventeen Seventy/Agnes Waters 1770 was the second place Captain James Cook landed on after Sydney’s Botany Bay. Despite its historical significance, it is a pretty spot to veer off to on the way to Yeppoon from Bargara. There are plenty of lookout points with walk tracks or simply take a stroll along the foreshore.
Clairview A tiny seaside village just off the motorway, Clairview is a picturesque stop about 100 kilometres south of Mackay. The settlement sits alongside an unspoilt coastline of clear blue waters and golden sand and is also part of the dugong conservation area.
The unspoilt beach in the tiny settlement of Clairview was a treat to stop at
Bowen The highway is still surrounded by sugar cane on our way from Mackay to Townsville. Bowen (home of mangoes) is a small reprieve. It’s a quaint old town with wide streets, a courthouse and a town hall building reminding us of the past. A typical country pub with wide verandas seems to be inviting us to come in, sit back and enjoy a tipple. Instead, we drive on so we can explore Townsville.
Cardwell Cardwell is the only town directly on the coast between Townsville and Cairns. Sitting just off the main road and overlooking Hinchinbrook Island it was the perfect place for a short driving break. We stopped to admire the views, the long jetty and the sculptures lining the foreshore.
Trinity Beach Trinity Beach is a small seaside sanctuary just out of Cairns. We have stayed there on a previous visit and detoured for a short visit for old time’s sake. It is as we remember it, quiet and peaceful. We recommend staying there if you want to stay outside of the city but close enough to take advantage of what the city offers.
Palm Cove We broke our short drive to Port Douglas with a stop in charming Palm Cove to savour the Melaleuca trees lining the esplanade, the boutiques and eating spots and another spectacular waterfront.
The tree-lined promenade of Palm Cove
Our favourite places to eat
Mackay Looking for somewhere to sit down for a light lunch, we were enticed into a Coco Cubano. The cafe serves Cuban-inspired food in a setting reminiscent of what we imagine Havana to be. It transforms into a cocktail lounge for its evening clientele. And, for dinner, try Sorbellos for a generous and authentic Italian meal. They have an extensive wine cellar if you’re a wine connoisseur.
Cairns It’s lunchtime and the streets of Cairns are quiet. Normally bustling with tourists, we notice only a few people out on the city streets. Looking for somewhere to have lunch we stumble on what seems to be one of the city’s lunch hot spots, The Chambers. This cafe/restaurant is housed in a former bank building dating back to 1920. The outdoor areas, private rooms and main areas are stylish while maintaining the old charm. The menu is extensive and the food delicious and there’s a Friday lunchtime happy hour.
Our stay at the Pullman Reef Hotel Casino provided a generous credit towards a meal at Tamarind which is located within the casino complex. Elegant Asian fusion dining which lived up to its reputation. Stop by the bar located just inside to enjoy an aperitif before dinner and if you’re staying during the weekend, pop back for a nightcap and enjoy the live band.
Port Douglas For a casual meal to complement the relaxed atmosphere of the town, enjoy a Thai meal at Star of Siam. The restaurant offers an extensive menu of fresh food.
Our verdict
Northern Queensland relies heavily on national and international tourism and 2020 has been particularly taxing financially on the tourist and hospitality industry there so we were delighted to be able to contribute in a small way to keeping hotels and other accommodation providers, cafes, restaurants and tourist attractions afloat during a difficult time. Everyone in both industries we met on our journey was appreciative and went beyond expectations to make sure we had a wonderful experience.
Of course, after our 1,400km drive north, we did have to return home. Yes, there is more to see. We’ll cover that part of our road trip in another post soon.
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The street was getting narrower and narrower. We contemplate if we should slowly ease our way back or bravely (and foolishly) venture forth.
We agree, we are too far in to back out now, we’ve made it this far! With no “One Way” sign in sight, we risk another car coming in from the other direction. Here goes.
The wing mirrors are folded in and calculations are made on how many millimetres we have on either side of our car to inch past the parked cars without causing any damage. Who allows street parking on such narrow streets anyway?
We’ve just travelled down the motorway from Madrid to Seville on our first self-drive adventure. We were jubilant to be told that we had been specially selected for an upgrade to a larger vehicle. We now see why the car hire attendant had that secretive smile on his face. “Nabbed these two novices”, he thought. We thought, this a brand new Mercedes, we can tour in comfort.
Predicaments such as this make us wonder why we think of taking self-drive holidays. It doesn’t take long for us to remember…
I look across to our two teenage sons as we hurtle down the motorway from the Fiumicino Airport to our apartment in central Rome. They stare wide-eyed glancing between me and the speedometer as they watch the needle move over the 130km speed limit. Looks like all we’ve heard about crazy Italian driving is true. Our first experience on a European road.
Other vehicles on the motorway appear to be travelling at the same pace. Lorries laden with goods are racing along, as are the cute Fiat Puntos. Once we are over the initial shock, we sit back and watch the scenery feeling quite safe, our well-dressed Italian driver is ruling his piece of the road! We haven’t come across a road accident yet and are comfortable in the knowledge that we have no intention of driving ourselves. A few days of sightseeing on foot, a train ride to Naples before returning to Rome to join a tour to see the amazing country we’ve heard so much about on a coach tour.
The places we visited on our coach tour did not disappoint. We had had our first taste of Italy and would definitely be visiting again to see more of this country which had captured our hearts in such a short time.
Travelling along the vast stretches of motorway, we would pass by magnificent looking hilltop towns, farmhouse in amongst fields of sunflowers and olive groves wondering what it would be to stop and have a closer look and dream of staying with the locals as other adventurous travellers have done in the past.
It is the thought of realising this dream that continually encourages us now to take any opportunity we can to self-drive on holidays. We take a leisurely pace, not driving too many hours or too far in the day just to go from A to B. Instead, we stop regularly in planned places of interest or divert off the beaten track towards something that has caught our eye. We enjoy slow travel by arranging longer stays in towns so we can spend time exploring surrounding countryside and attractions, and experience the varying cultures and culinary experiences of smaller towns.
We have given away the faster motorways, or at least try to avoid them. European motorways are much easier to drive on. They may seem hectic and daunting at first but they are the best place to get used to driving on the right hand side of the road (if that is the wrong side for you). Drivers tend to stay in their lanes, trucks often have their own dedicated lanes, and once you are on the road you realise that there is method to this madness. There is more courtesy and respect with very little tailgating.
Often we will park our car on arrival and revert to exploring a town on foot. However, it’s much more interesting to amble along back roads, take in the scenery and visit places off the tourist radar on the way to our destination.
Of course, things may not always go smoothly, like our Seville experience. We had another one just a few days ago, driving into London City. The city area has a “congestion charge” which we wanted to avoid by driving around the outskirts of the area when returning our hire car. Our GPS had other plans! Before we knew it we were driving along the River Thames on a perfect summer’s day taking in the spectacular sights of the London Eye and Westminster before us.
“Take a right turn here”, the GPS told said. Suddenly we were driving up The Mall towards Buckingham Palace, up Constitution Hill and through Marble Arch. Our sightseeing was complete before we had even checked into our accommodation.
The congestion charge was paid online – no harm done. We laughed off the experience and agreed it was an exquisite way to enter London City.
Self-drive will not always go to plan and provide you with lots of little surprises along the way. It will, however, let you see a lot more than you intended to.
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