Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Category: Europe

You must include fascinating Zurich on your Swiss itinerary

The Swiss city of Zurich is renowned for being home to numerous banks and financial institutions. Being a global financial centre, this often deters travellers from spending time in the city. However, that should not prevent you from visiting the city. We made a point of staying in the city during our visit to Switzerland to explore what it had to offer. Read about why you must include fascinating Zurich on your Swiss itinerary.

A brief history of Zurich

Inhabited for over 2,000 years, the Romans founded the town of Zurich (originally called Turicum) in 15BC. It was the perfect location to oversee trade passing through the Alps.

The city grew into a market town in the 11th and 12th centuries, gaining further popularity with the construction of the Fraumünster, a convent catering to aristocratic women. It attracted women from throughout Europe.

It was only at the end of the 19th century that the establishment of key banks in Zurich led to the city’s emergence as a major financial hub. The city previously known as the home of nuns and monks became home to bankers.

Why you must visit Zurich

The city’s long and diverse past makes it a fascinating place to visit. There is plenty to see and do. Set aside at least two days to explore the old town and enjoy the beautiful sights.

Our favourite things to do in Zurich

Visit Zurich’s Altstadt

Spanning both sides of the Limmat River, Zurich’s Altstadt is a warren of cobblestoned streets and alleyways to explore.

Grossmünster

Zurich's Grossmunster
The twin steeples of the Grossmunster

Standing proudly on the right bank of the Limmat is Zurich’s major landmark, the Grossmünster. The Grossmünster, a former monastery, is a pivotal site in the history of the Swiss Reformation. Take a look inside; the stained glass windows are particularly striking. For a price, you can also go up to the top of the tower to enjoy views over the Altstadt and across Lake Zurich.

Fraumünster

Cross over the historic Münsterbrucke after visiting the Grossmünster to visit another of Zurich’s iconic churches, the Kirche Fraumünster. The present church dates from 1250 and was built on the site of an abbey, which was founded in 853. It is this old abbey which first served as the convent for aristocratic women. The convent was closed at the Swiss Reformation, and the old abbey crypt lying beneath the church can be visited.

Why you must include fascinating Zurich on your Swiss itinerary.
Views of the Fraumunster in Zurich from the Munsterbrucke
Views from the Munsterbrücke of the Fraumünster and St Peter’s Church in Zurich

St Peter’s Church

The clock face of St Peter's Church stands out on the left bank of Zurich's Altstadt
The clock face of St Peter’s Church stands out on the left bank of Zurich’s Altstadt

While not as prominent as the Fraumünster or the Grossmünster, St. Peter’s Church is the city’s oldest church and features the largest church clock face. St Peter’s Church was built in the 9th century. Look closely at the clock face to see how it differs from most clock faces. We enjoyed wandering the charming streets around the church.

Stroll along Bahnhofstrasse and Paradeplatz

While on the left bank, take a stroll along Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s high-end shopping street, which is full of exclusive stores. The street runs for nearly 1.5km from the Altstadt to the lakefront.

Zurich's Paradeplatz where the city's heart beats
Zurich’s Paradeplatz, where the city’s heart beats

Paradeplatz is at the heart of the Bahnhofstrasse. It’s a major tram junction. Stand back and watch the trams criss-crossing the square. The square rose in importance when major banks set up their headquarters there.

Get off the beaten track in Schipfe

The cobblestone streets of Schipfe in Zurich
The quiet cobblestone streets of Schipfe are a delight to wander around

Schipfe is one of the lesser-visited areas of the Altstadt. Sitting on the Limmat River beneath Lindenhof, Schipfe is a quiet residential area, home to beautiful cobbled streets, charming homes and shops.

Take in the views from Lindenhof

Views from Lindenhof in Zurich
Views from Lindenhof

Lindenhof, one of Zurich’s most historic spots, is the perfect place to enjoy a little tranquillity and look out over the city. The hill originally housed a Roman settlement and a castle. Today, it’s a peaceful park offering a wonderful view of the Limmat, Grossmünster, and the Old Town.

Explore Niederdorf

The squares and alleyways of Niederdorf in Zurich are wonderful to explore
The squares and alleyways of Niederdorf in Zurich are wonderful to explore

On the Limmat River’s right bank, Niederdorf is the area where the old meets the new. The Altstadt melts into modern Zurich. The area is a mix of historic guild houses, boutiques, cafes and squares along winding alleyways. As night falls, it becomes vibrant as restaurants and bars open their doors.

Visit the Landesmuseum

Next to Zurich’s main railway station is the Landesmuseum, Switzerland’s National Museum. The museum showcases Switzerland’s history, from its early days to the present.

If, like us, you’re not interested in museums, the courtyard of the museum complex is still worth stepping into. Stand back and be prepared to be amazed by the fairytale castle, which was built in 1898.

The courtyard of the Zurich's Landesmuseum lit up for the Radfunk.fm Festival
The courtyard of the Landesmuseum lit up for the Rundfunk.fm Festival

If you’re visiting Zurich in the summer months from mid-July to early September, you’ll find the courtyard transformed for the annual Rundfunk.fm radio and music festival. The festival showcases local, national and international DJs and music.

Stroll the shores of Lake Zurich

With the magnificent Alps as a backdrop, there is no better way to relax than taking a stroll along the promenade and paths on either side of Lake Zurich. Access is steps away from the heart of the city.

Burkliplatz

The Ganymed sculture on Burkliterrasse in Burliplatz, Zurich, Switzerland
The Ganymede sculpture on Burkliterrasse in Burkliplat,z from which you’re guaranteed spectacular views over Lake Zurich and beyond

A good place to start is at Burkliplatz, next to Quaibrücke, which links the two sides of the lake where the Limmat River emerges from the lake. Admire the bronze Ganymede Sculpture and gaze out over the lake at the stunning views of the snow-clad mountains on the horizon. Burkliplatz is known as Zurich’s “Front Row Seat by the Lake”.

Chinese Garden

A walk along Utoquai will find you at the beautiful Chinagarten. Gifted to Zurich by its sister city, Kunming, the garden is noted as one of the highest-ranking gardens outside of China. The garden was gifted in appreciation for the scientific and technical expertise Zurich provided to enhance Kunming’s drinking water and drainage systems.

Zurich Yacht Club and Arboretum

Views over Lake Zurich
Views over Lake Zurich from the Yacht Club

Follow General Guisan-Quai on the opposite side of the lake, and you’ll find the Zurich Yacht Club and the Arboretum, a botanical park open to the public. It’s a serene part of the city to retreat to, offering a peaceful escape from the city.

Zurich’s Theatre Spektakel

Further along the shores from the Arboretum, you’ll find Landiweise, another picturesque spot on Lake Zurich. The green open space is the venue of the annual Theatre Spektakel, an international arts festival that has been running since 1980. The festival takes place over two weeks in August.

Amble along the banks of the Limmat River

Views from the Limmat River promenade in Zurich
Views from the Limmat River promenade

Whether you’re looking at it from Lindenhof above or its mouth at Quaibrücke, the Limmat River is obviously the heart of Zurich. Ambling along the Limmat is an opportunity to feel the real Zurich. Admire the breathtaking city views, and in the summer, join the locals by stopping off at Unterer Lettten or Oberer Letten swimming facilities.

Take a train ride to the top of Uetliberg Mountain

Have an afternoon free? One of the best views of the city, the lake and the surrounding countryside is from Uetliberg Mountain.

Views over Zurich from Uetliburg mountain
Views over Zurich from Uetliberg mountain

Uetliberg is just a 20-minute train ride from Zurich’s main train station. The train will take you straight to the summit. From there, it’s just a short walk to the viewpoint to enjoy the spectacular views.

Our opinion

With the beautiful Swiss Alps as a backdrop, Zurich is more than just a banking and financial hub. Switzerland’s largest city is a vibrant and lively city ready to welcome visitors. As the centre for banking and finance, the city boasts citizens from all over the world, adding to the city’s unique culture.

We suggested setting aside 2-3 full days to fully experience all that the fascinating city of Zurich has to offer.

Where we stayed

We had the pleasure of staying in a lovely local neighbourhood near Niederdorf on the right bank.

EMA House Services Apartments in Unterstrasse is a 10-minute walk from Zurich’s Altstadt. The apartment was large and very comfortable.

In case you’re interested

Our travels have taken us to other towns and cities in Switzerland, which we believe are worth visiting. Please take a look at another of our recommendations below.

Visit Basel, a Swiss treasure that you must see

A short time in Switzerland, making our way to Italy by road, found us wanting to see more of one of the most picturesque countries in the world. Basel was our first stop on our comprehensive road tour of the country. Be sure to visit Basel, a Swiss treasure that you must see.

Why you should visit Basel

Basel, located in northwestern Switzerland, is conveniently situated near the borders of both France and Germany. Known as the art and culture capital of Switzerland, unless one embarks on a river cruise along the mighty Rhine River, travellers do not often make the city a priority for a visit. Read on to learn more about why we think you should.

Steeped in history with its origins going back to Roman times, Basel is Switzerland’s third-largest city, often overlooked by visitors who prefer to visit Zurich.

For visitors, central Basel is split into two unique areas on either side of the Rhine River: Kleinbasel and Basel’s Altstadt. Even though the River divides the city, bridges crossing over the river make the city easy to navigate on foot.

Our favourite things to do in Basel

Explore Basel Altstadt

Visit the Rathaus

Basel’s Rathaus (Town Hall) is a unique structure. Standing in the heart of Basel’s bustling Marktplatz, the building’s red facade catches your attention. We were in awe of this building, which was constructed over 500 years ago. Sit on a bench across from the Renaissance building to study its beautiful façade, complete with intricate carvings and sculptures.

Basel's unique Rathaus
We sat across from Basel’s unique Rathaus to admire the amazing exterior before we went inside

But wait, there’s more. Step inside the arcaded entrance, and you’ll find yourself in an inner courtyard. You’ll find your breath taken away with walls covered extravagantly in frescoes and grand staircases.

Basel Rathaus beautiful interior
The beautiful interior courtyard of Basel’s Rathaus

While the building is an iconic landmark in Basel, it is also a working building housing the city council and the mayor’s office, as well as being the seat of government.

Basel Munsterplatz

Basel’s Munsterplatz is one of the oldest public squares in Basel, hosting not only the Basler Munster but also many beautiful historic buildings around the square. Take a look around at the Renaissance and Baroque architecture of the buildings, many of which date back to medieval times.

The striking toweres and red sandstone facade of Basel Munster
The striking towers and red sandstone facade of Basel Munster

The square has also been a public meeting place for centuries and continues the tradition today, with concerts and major events held there, including the annual Christmas Markets.

Basel Munster

Basel Munster, and its towers are visible across the city on either side of the river. However, it’s most striking up close in Munsterplatz. The Munster was built between 1019 and 1500 and is known for its red sandstone exterior, colourful roof and Gothic facade. The church was destroyed and rebuilt after an earthquake in 1356.

One of the cloisters of Basel Munster
One of the cloisters of Basel Munster

The interior is simple and lightly adorned, but what stands out are the beautiful stained glass windows and frescoes. The highlight was wandering around the two cloisters, which led to a shaded terrace with a viewpoint overlooking the river and across to the other side.

The viewing terrace behind Basel Munster which provides views over the Rhine River and beyond
The viewing terrace behind Basel Munster provides views over the Rhine River and beyond

Walk along medieval Augustinegasse

One of the most beautiful routes to walk to Munsterplatz and the Munster is along Augustinegasse. A stroll along the street takes you past medieval and aristocratic houses, as well as museums with glimpses across the river from vantage points. Along the way, look out for the Augustiner Brunnen, a decorative fountain bearing the city’s coat of arms. A fountain has been on the site since 1468.

Augustiner Brunnen, the decorative fountain on Basel's Augustinegasse
Augustiner Brunnen, the decorative fountain on Basel’s Augustinegasse

Mittlere Brücke

Since 1226, the Mittlere Brücke has been one of Basel’s most well-known landmarks. Linking the two sides of the river, it is one of the oldest Rhine crossings.

Mittlere Brücke as seen from Basel's Augustinegasse viewpoint
Mittlere Brücke as seen from Basel’s Augustinegasse viewpoint

The current bridge, known as the new Mittlere Brücke, was erected in 1905 to incorporate the city’s tram system.

Stroll in Altstadt’s backstreets

Venture away from the more popular riverside streets in the Altstadt and discover the backstreets of the old town. Filled with beautiful old houses and intimate squares dating back to the 12th century, you’ll find it a treat to walk around.

The beautiful courtyards and medieval buildings of Basel;s Altstadt
The beautiful courtyards and medieval buildings of Basel’s Altstadt

Be mesmerised by the Tinguely Fountain

Walk through Basel’s theatre district and you’ll find a modern addition to the Altstadt, the Tinguely Fountain

For a modern twist, visit the Tinguely Fountain (Tinguely-Brunnen). IT sits on the site of the old Basel Theatre and next to the new Basel Theatre. Watch the fun and mechanical sculptures moving in this quirky fountain.

Tinguely Fountain in Basel, Switzerland
Tinguely Fountain

The fountain was created by Jean Tinguely, one of Basel’s most celebrated artists. There’s also a museum in Basel dedicated to his work.

Venture across the river to Kleinbasel

With its vibrant squares and choice of inernatleinbasel, originally known as “lesser Basel”, has become a popular part of town to visit.

Kaserne Basel and the Basel Tattoo

Kaserne Basel is Basel’s central culture hub. The open-air theatre hosts up to 250 concerts and performances every year.

During our stay, the annual Basel Tattoo was being held at the venue. The Basel Tattoo is the second-largest open-air tattoo in the world. It promises to be a sensational show featuring bagpipes, music, and folk dancing.

If you’re planning to attend the Tattoo, tickets sell out fast, so book early. We didn’t have tickets, so we spent some time enjoying the grounds outside the venue with the locals, who, like us, were taking in the sounds of the rehearsals before the main event.

Stroll the Rhein Promenade

The Rhein Promenade offers some of the best views of the Altstadt. Take a morning walk or evening stroll.

Views of the Altstadt and locals floating down te Rhine River. Visit Basel, a Swiss treasure that you must see.
Views of the Altstadt and locals floating down the Rhine River in Basel

If you’re visiting during the summer months, you’ll find a phenomenon particular to the city. On our morning walk, we came across locals engaging in one of their favourite activities. With their daywear in special waterproof bags doubling as floats, we saw dozens of people floating down the river.

Enjoy a riverside picnic dinner

The huge Migros supermarket (it even has a large patisserie section) in Kleinbasel was our spot to collect a crisp rosé wine and an assortment of breads, cheeses, and olives one evening.

In the summer, the riverside is wonderful for an evening picnic. We found a spot to join the locals watching the floaters go down the river, listening to musicians entertain us, looking over the scenic Altstadt and engaging in a little people-watching while enjoying our simple evening meal.

More things you can do while in Basel

  • Not much of the castle walls remain in Basel today, but walk a little further from the Altstadt to St Alban and you’ll find the parts of castle walls and the Spalen Gate, one of the city’s three remaining gates.
  • Also in St Alban, you’ll find Basel’s Paper Museum. It’s a working paper museum set in a medieval paper mill.
  • Make a day trip to Baden in the Limmat Valley. It has a beautiful old town and is known for its thermal baths, and is just 56km from Basel.

In case you’re interested

You name it, we’ve been on all sorts of holidays. However, whether we’re exploring our own country or travelling further afield, our most treasured ones are our road trips. Read why on our blog post dedicated to self-driving – “It’s more fun to self-drive

The best way to see more of the Duoro Valley

There are many ways to discover Portugal’s Duoro Valley.  River cruises are always very enticing or, you can complete a day trip by train from the popular city of Porto. However, having spent a few days in this very special part of the world, we think the best way to see more of the Duoro Valley is by car.

Whether you’re a wine lover or not, you’ll find the Duoro Valley’s scenery breathtaking. Kilometres and kilometres of terraced vineyards rise high up into the mountains and small villages are scattered in between.

Peso de Regua

Peso de Regua is a busy city on the banks of the Duoro River and one of the gateways to the vineyards of the Valley. Our research determined that the best place to access the short river cruise was Regua. It was important to note though that the Duoro Valley is still relatively quiet after the pandemic and few river cruise operators were functioning while we were there. The one we hoped to book with required four passengers to make the cruise viable and we were the only two at the assigned departure time so missed the opportunity.

Not being able to cruise the river gave us an unexpected chance to see the Valley by road. In hindsight, we are so glad that fate intervened.

Regua
Scenes of the Valley and the Douro River from Regua

Only one large river cruise boat was in Port on the day we visited Regua. Although we got the feeling the town was used to catering for more in better times. Passengers boarded buses for afternoon tours around the Valley as we enjoyed the scenery from the dockside. Unfortunately, buses cannot access the roads that wind amongst the terraces. It’s a shame they will miss the best parts and views that can only be seen on these roads.

Pinhao

The drive from Peso de Regua to Pinhao, or vice versa, is rated as one of the most scenic drives in the world. And it lived up to expectations. If you’re fortunate, you may have an opportunity to watch a barge or riverboat work its way through the lock.

There was however a little traffic jam along the riverfront road. We had caught up with the Viking River Cruise tour buses and they were blocking the road as they manoeuvred their way out of town. Again, captivating scenery greeted us

Once you get to Pinhao, you’ll find it’s a sleepy town. In contrast to Pesa de Regua, Pinhao is a sleepy little town. However, you’ll find the scenery captivating.

Pinhao, Duoro Valley
Looking down the Douro River from Pinhao Railway Station

Another way to travel from Peso de Regua to Pinhao is by train. Many tourists also take the train journey from Porto on a day trip. Both journeys arrive a Pinhao’s train station which is a little gem to look at.

Take a break away from the breathtaking scenery to have a look at the blue tiles frontage and walk through the inside to have the stories of the region told by the painted blue tiles on the station platform.

Lamego

More terraces covered in grapevines accompanied us on the road to the small town of Lamego. It’s a slow 20-minute drive away from Pesa de Regua however, you will find that it’s like being in a different world. Small churches and manicured green parks in the middle of town where residents gathered gave this small town an air of gentrification.

Vila Real

We stumbled upon the town of Vila Real while looking for suitable accommodation. The sole representative at the town’s tourist office, who only spoke German and Spanish, conveyed to us in no uncertain terms that there was absolutely nothing to see in Vila Real!

We beg to differ. Agreed. You can visit the sights, which are primarily churches over an hour. A walk around the town area doesn’t take very long at all., an hour at a stroll. The old town area, however, has a vibe that we didn’t find in the other Duoro towns.

Pop into the market in the morning and that’s where you’ll find the locals. A wonderful atmosphere, stall owners calling out their specials to potential customers, men gathered in groups discussing whatever it is they discuss, and similarly, women gathered around vegetable stalls or sitting down for a gossip over coffee.

Dining options reflected a very local menu and included wines from the area in a relaxed environment.

One of the highlights of staying in Vila Real

If your stay happens to coincide with a Saturday evening in July and August, you’ll be in for a special treat. Every Saturday at 10:00 pm, you’ll find live entertainment in the main square. During our stay, we were treated to a brass band who were touring the Duroro from a small island in the Azores that entertained the township for 90 minutes or more.

Vila Real at night
Saturday night concert in the square

Palais Mateus

 Mateus Palais, Vila Real, Douro Valley
The elegant entrance to Palais Mateus

One of Portugal’s well know wines is Mateus. Busloads of tourists come to visit the beautiful Palais and gardens from Pesa de Regua, Pinhao and further afield. The Palais is located less than 5km from Vila Real and allows you to easily go to visit and appreciate the Palais and tranquil grounds with the surrounding vineyard before the busloads of tourists descend.

Mateus Palais, Vila Real
The beautifully manicured gardens of the Mateus Palais
Gardens at Mateus Palais

Wine tasting while in the Duoro Valley

When you’re surrounded by vineyards and wine tasting options it’s hard to decide which is the one for you.

You may prefer to take advantage of the whole experience by staying at one of the vineyards. We decided not to take this option so we could explore more of the Valley. However, should you have the time and prefer to, we’ve found this website provides credible opportunities.

Of course, like us, if you prefer to base yourself in one of the Duoro “towns”, then you can drive yourself between the many cellar doors to wine taste at your leisure.

Our conclusion

The Duoro Valley is one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Breathtaking scenery accompanied us wherever we went in the Valley.

The hidden hills and valleys of the Duoro Valley
Some of the scenery that can only be encountered when travelling by car in the Duoro Valley

We will definitely consider seeing the Valley on a river cruise in the future. However, for a first experience, travelling between the towns and driving in, around and out of the region by road allowed us to see so much scenery that can’t be reached by bus or boat, and take away memories that we had never imagined.

Hoping that we have encouraged you to visit the beautiful Duoro Valley on a road trip. We’re sure you’ll enjoy it as much as we did!

P.S. To help you plan your Duoro road itinerary, take a look at this website which offers some planned routes.

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