Our love of leisurely road trips allowed us to break the 10-11 hour drive from southeast Queensland to the Blue Mountains with some stops and a couple of overnight stays. Below are our suggestions for places to stop on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales.
Route options
With several route options available, our road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales was to be on the inland route with two overnight stays. The first was in the inland Scenic Rim town of Stanthorpe, and the second was in Australia’s country music capital, Tamworth.
Our plans rapidly changed when an oil tanker rollover blocked the highway. After sitting in a traffic jam for several hours, a quick decision was made to re-route and take the coastal road.
Phone calls were made on the go to cancel and make new accommodation bookings. We were glad to have taken the “Free cancellation” option on our original bookings
More traffic delays and we finally arrived at our overnight destination seven hours after leaving home. The drive would usually take two hours!
Hint: Travelling teaches you to be flexible and agile and enjoy the experience, even if it’s not what you expected.
The best places to stop on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales
An overnight stay in Kingscliff
Only a couple of hours of relaxed driving from Brisbane and just over the Queensland border is the coastal town of Kingscliff.
Kingscliff is not just a place to stop over on the way south, it’s a beautiful holiday destination in its own right and perfect for short or long stayovers. We have enjoyed short stay breaks in the laidback atmosphere that comes from one street town.
The “welcome drinks” at Peppers Salt Resort were extremely welcome and within moments of check-in, we had put the day behind us, were relaxed and ready to enjoy the evening.
A short stroll to the adjoining Salt Village and we are spoilt for choice by the dining options: Asian, Mexican, Italian, or simple fish and chips. For those staying for a few days, treat yourself to the spa or shop in the boutiques. Then, of course, there’s the beach!
Our misfortunes of the day changed to a fortune of a relaxed evening at the resort.
Hint: When you leave Kingscliff, drive south along the scenic coast road through Cabarita Beach, a small beachside village.
Stretching out legs at Nambucca Heads
The highway has dramatically improved. over the years. There is no longer the need to drive through small towns at limited speeds. Now you can pick and choose which towns you wish to detour into or turn on cruise control and keep driving.
We choose to stop at the scenic Nambucca Heads for lunch. We discover Gordon Park on the river. It’s a peaceful spot to stretch your legs and grab lunch and coffee—a fantastic place to take a break.
Overnight stay in Port Macquarie
We arrived in Port Macquarie with fond memories of a stay during another road trip many years ago when we had arrived fresh from New Zealand to make our home in Australia. Arriving in the early afternoon allowed us time to do a little exploring. The best way was on foot.
We began our brisk walk from the town centre along the Coastal Walk. The painted rocks at the breakwall capture our intention. The painted rocks started as an art competition in 1995. and have become a gallery of sorts: tributes to loved ones who have passed away; celebrations of love and; anniversaries amongst others. Our walk is slowed down to a stroll as we stop, read, and admire the artwork.
At Town Beach, the artwork ends and our pace quickens. We aim to walk to the Lighthouse, but time is not on our side and we turn back at Nobby Head after a walk of breathtaking rough and rugged scenery.
After several hours of exploring we are back at our hotel to shower and enjoy a drink at the bar before walking the short distance into the town centre to choose somewhere for dinner. Again, we are spoilt for choice and decide on a simple pizza dinner.
The Blue Mountains
A World Heritage area, Blue Mountains National Park is one of Australia’s icons. You’ll be enchanted by its natural wonders. Explore the endless hiking trails around cliffs, canyons, waterfalls and lush forests of the national park by spending a few days in the area.
Other places to stop on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales
Of course, depending on how much time you have, there are numerous stops and stays to make on a road trip from Brisbane to New South Wales. A few suggestions are below. We stayed at a couple on our return journey.
Byron Bay
Ballina
Yamba
Coffs Harbour
Port Stephens and Nelson Bay
The Hunter Valley
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Planning on visiting Malaga or Seville? Read on to find out why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.
Southern Spain is speckled with pueblo blancos (white towns). Each has its own character and it’s hard not to get caught up visiting all of them. If you’re short on time, Ronda is the one town to visit.
Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda
We chose Ronda as our base for several days because of its point of difference from the other white villages.
Steeped in history, the city sits on two sides of a deep gorge connected by a fantastic bridge—the bridge, Puento Nuevo (new bridge) was built in 1793.
Our apartment was located in Plaza Espana next to Puento Nuevo, with an added “wow” factor. Our expansive patio looked out over the magnificent Sierra de las Nieves! The Tourist Office around the corner from our apartment armed us with a map and options on how to spend our time in the town.
We were fortunate to arrive on a Saturday when a free flamenco concert was being held in Ronda’s Old Town.
A summer evening in Ronda
The views from both sides of the bridge are dramatic, and it is the first place to stop to soak in the scenery before you explore the old town.
In the Old Town, we followed the sound of music down some cobblestone alleys to appear at an open-air area where the rehearsal was in progress. Moving on, we stopped in a pretty square to visit the cathedral, Santa Maria de la Mayor. An added pleasure was watching a wedding party emerge.
The plaza offers several restaurants if you’d like to eat in the quiet precinct. We opted for the low-key garden restaurant to try a few of the local dishes on offer. The food portions are large and delicious.
Back at the concert venue, we found the seats were filling up fast. Instead of sitting down with the audience, we decided to sit on the ledge above to watch people and observe. By 10:00 pm, the arena was full. Concertgoers came dressed for the occasion and the atmosphere was jovial as the concert commenced.
We left after an hour, wishing we understood the language better so we could have enjoyed the music, singing and dancing as much as the locals did.
The Cathedral was spectacularly lit up as we passed by on the way back to our apartment. At 11:30 pm. townsfolk were still out and about in droves, and the town was buzzing. Just one of the benefits of visiting in the summer months.
Things to do in incredible Ronda
Enjoy the dramatic views from Mirador Aldehuela
Mirador Aldehuela is on the Old Town side of Puento Nuevo and directly opposite Plaza Espana. We recommend that it’s one of the first things you do. The dramatic views down to the Guadelevin River flowing at the bottom of the gorge surrounded by the cliff formations are jaw-dropping.
Take in the evening views of Puento Nuevo
For another perspective of Puento Nuevo, stroll along Mirador de Aves via the pathway from Plaza Espana in the evening.
It’s a great place to linger as the sun goes down. As darkness falls and the lights around the gorge turn on, highlighting the bridge. The bridge looked spectacular, and the gorge seemed rather eery.
Take a hike in the El Tajo Gorge
Morning dawned with hot air balloons hovering over our balcony. They skimmed across the sky to hover above the gorge and valley. The views must be unique from above.
The Tourist Office recommended hiking the Molinos del Tajo route, which leads down from the Old Town into the El Tajo Gorge. This would be the best way to experience the town’s distinctive qualities. We took their recommendation and were not disappointed.
The main path takes you to the waterfall just below the bridge with some viewpoints providing breathtaking views of the bridge. You can then walk some of the quieter paths leading further downhill to capture bridge views from different angles before circumnavigating to the other side of town towards the old Roman bridge and visiting the Arab Baths. We returned to the township via Jardines de Cuenca, and the spectacular viewpoints spread at intervals across the gardens before emerging in Plaza Espana from the other end of the Puento Nuevo.
The early morning is the perfect time to do the two-hour walk, especially if you are visiting in summer. The temperature is cool, and, at this time of the day, there are not many people on the trails. It provides a wonderful opportunity to savour the views from the lookouts and take unobstructed photos.
Step inside the Arab Baths and walk over the Roman Bridge
If you follow the walking route around to the eastern side of the town, you’ll end up at the Arab Baths.
Relatively intact, the baths provide a peek into the Moorish heritage of the town. This part of town was originally the main entrance into Ronda, and the baths sat just outside the city walls and next to the Mosque. Locals and visitors would stop to cleanse their bodies at the baths before going to the Mosque
A little further around the corner, you’ll find more another remnant of old Ronda with the Roman Bridge at the original entrance to Ronda.
Visit the Plaza de Toros
One of the oldest in Spain, Ronda’s bullring stands as a centrepiece as you enter the Old Town. Two statues honouring two sons of the town stand at the entrance. Statues honouring two of the town’s famous matadors, a father (Antonio Ordonez) and son (Cayetano Ordonez) stand proudly at the entrance. With bullfighting falling out of favour in recent times, the bullring serves mainly as a museum these days. Bullfighting is, however, embedded in the culture of the town and once a year in September, the Plaza de Toros truly comes to life when the Feria de Pedro Romero is held along with several others in southern Spain.
Mirador de Ronda – scenic lookout of the gorge and mountains
A few minutes’ stroll from Plaza Espana, and through the flower gardens is another lookout to the amazing mountain ranges and the gorge. For spectacular sunset views, take a seat on the steps of the rotunda from where you can watch one of the world’s best sunsets.
Visit Setenil de las Bodegas
The small white village of Setenil de las Bodegas is a twenty-minute drive from Ronda and worth a visit whether you are staying in Ronda or just hopping from one white town to another on your way through southern Spain.
Why? Setenil is not just another white village and is unique in its own right for the town’s hilltop castle, which was once an Arab fortress. Even more, it is famous because of the village houses built into the rock and cliffside.
The village is very popular for its culinary fare. The original houses built into the cliff are now mostly tavernas or restaurants serving the chorizo sausages that the village is famous for. We arrived in the village for a late afternoon visit to find the village still brimming with tourists.
Once you’ve had a wander around the area below, follow the steps up to a small lookout to take a seat and survey the pueblo from above. You’ll find it a great vantage point to view the castle/fortress.
Shopping on Carrera Espinel
Carerra Espinel is a one-kilometre pedestrian street with shopping for all budgets. However, Carrera Espinel is worth a walk down for its festive spirit. Part of the way along veer into the pretty Plaza del Socorro, where you’ll find a few dining options and the Inglesia del Sirocco. It’s a pretty square in an incredible town!
Our conclusion
Steeped in history and jaw-dropping scenery, Ronda was true to all that we had read about the town and the amazing photography we had seen when researching places to visit in southern Spain. Ronda did not disappoint!
You simply should not leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda!
One more thing
Looking for more pueblo blancos to visit. Click on the link below to read more.
When researching where to visit in southern Spain, places like Seville, Malaga and Granada frequently arose. We have found another area to include on your itinerary. See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain.
See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain
The white villages (pueblos blancos) are easily visited from Seville, Cadiz or Malaga on a day visit. The best way to appreciate them and their atmosphere (each varies) is to stay in one. We based ourselves in Ronda and stopped at a few villages on the way there. Here are some that stood out for us.
Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez de la Frontera is the largest of the white villages/towns and is famous for two things:
the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art and breeding and training horses; and
producing some of the best sherry in the world.
Vineyards accompanied us on the road and on reaching the Jerez, we found it brimming with bodegas (cellars). Producers here make sherry from a particular grape variety (Palamino) which grows in the chalky soil of this part of Spain. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you are looking for tasting cellars. Look out for the area’s most famous brand, Tio Pepe which stands prominently on the hillside as you drive into the town.
We weren’t in Jerez to taste the sherry or check out the equestrian centre. We wanted to visit the old town. Vehicular access is prohibited so we parked outside the zone, an extra dimension to our visit. Derelict houses lined the alleys and streets as we walked towards what we hoped was the central plaza. What the city may have to offer a visitor was questionable!
Ten minutes of winding through the alleys brought us to a quiet main road which we followed a short way uphill. Suddenly out of nowhere, Plaza de la Asuncion appeared. A small but charming old square with a significant history. A 15th-century Gothic Mudejar-style church, the Church of San Dionisio is on one side, the former town hall dating back to the 16th century, on another. In the middle, you’ll find the Monumento a la Asuncion.
A short walk along the lane took us to one of the most important squares in Jerez de la Frontera, Plaza del Arenal. It’s the heart of the old town and was once the scene of fights and duels in the 16th century. These days, it’s a beautiful open space hosting statues of renowned identities surrounded by beautiful old buildings. The colourful carousel in the corner adds to its charm and vibrancy.
We came across the striking Jerez Cathedral. It’s a beautiful building dating back to the 17th century combining Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Classical styles towering over the street as we returned to the car.
Arcos de la Frontera
Arcos de la Frontera is one of the lesser-visited white towns. Set on a hilltop, we detoured slightly north from Cadiz to Ronda to explore this hilltop town.
Parking in Plaza del Cabildo is limited and narrow alleyways to navigate on the hill. We decided to find a car park in the town area below (Hint: bring good walking shoes to make your way uphill on the cobbled pathway). The views of the white town as we walked towards more than made up for taking the steep incline on a hot summer morning.
Plaza del Cabildo
The main street, Calle Cuesta Belen took us to our first stop, Plaza del Cabildo. Beautiful buildings surround this main square on three sides (Basilica de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, Castillo Ducal, the town hall and the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera, a hotel). The Mirador del Cono is the highlight of the Plaza. It serves as a cliffside balcony to look out over the Rio Guadalete.
Explore the narrow alleyways
One of the highlights of our visit to Arcos de la Frontera was getting lost in the little alleys around the town. The best place to start is to go back to the Cuesta Belen entrance of the Plaza and enter through the archway on the left just before the Parador. You’ll find yourself in the maze of alleyways lined with whitewashed houses.
Things to look out for:
Inglesia de San Pedro – the church and its Baroque bell tower are just as impressive as the Basilica in Plaza del Cabildo.
Palacio del Mayorazgo – when you’ve finished gazing at the Iglesia de San Pedro, turn around. This narrow building dates back to the 17th century. It is now home to a cultural centre. Pop in to admire the building’s interior and the exhibitions.
Find and stroll along Calle Cuna and Calle Maldonaldo. Both are lined with Palacios and worthy of finding your way to.
Another street to find is Calle Nueva lined. It’s lined with colourful pots against the whitewashed buildings.
Visit the Convento de la Mercerdarias. The convent was closed during our visit, however, all the information we read before our visit recommended a visit. The convent dates back to 1642 and is a classic example of a cloistered convent.
Follow the path from Calle Nueva onwards to Mirador Abades. If you thought the views from the mirador in Plaza Cabildo were spectacular, we classified Mirador Abades as the perfect finale for our visit. Go ahead and take a look for yourselves.
Don’t forget to pop your head into the novelty stores and tapas bars.
Zahara de la Sierra
Zahara de la Sierra is an hour’s drive from Arcos de la Frontera. We passed a few more Pueblo Blancos on the way. Zahara de la Sierra’s Moorish castle is perched high up on the hill coming into view from afar
Again, we found it best to use the car park at the bottom of the hill. It was also the best way to savour the beauty of the laneways and Moorish houses on the way to Plaza Mayor, the village’s main square. The steep streets were eerily quiet and not a soul was to be seen on the way up.
On reaching Plaza Mayor we realised why the streets had been so quiet. The pretty pink church, Church of Santa Maria de la Mesa was hidden behind a marquee set up to cover the square and pretty stone fountain. Calle Ronda was barricaded for a bull run. The town’s inhabitants were either lining the outside of barriers or inside for the release of the bull.
While everyone was preoccupied preparing for the bull run we took advantage of the stunning views of the picturesque Sierra de Monte surrounding the aqua-blue lake, Playa de Zahara de la Sahara below. The lake is a popular water sports destination as the mountains are for hiking.
A little time was spent at the barricades absorbing the atmosphere before we realised that this was not something we would enjoy. We made our way downhill for lunch before crowds arrived after the spectacle. An ambulance siren accompanies our journey down.
Olvera
We now know where all the Spanish olive oil comes from! Driving to Olvera you’ll see olive groves everywhere. Fires over the past summers have destroyed some hillside groves. In some areas, new trees have been planted and some of the surviving old trees are starting to resprout. We are once again treated to spectacular views driving towards the township. Another castle perched above us on the hill. Just below it, a church.
Olvera is a ghost town as we walk uphill. Apart from the restaurants, everything else is closed for the siesta. Walking uphill is beginning to become a habit but we can enjoy the scenic main street without crowds.
Arriving in the church square, apart from a couple of people sitting under the shade of a tree, we have it to ourselves. A Polish family joined us a short while later. Like us, they are amazed that there is no one else around.
The square is the best place to see the castle while the lookouts around the church provide sweeping views over the township below and the surrounding countryside. It was time well spent stopping and walking up the hot afternoon sun.
Ronda – the most stunning of the white villages
Onwards to incredible Ronda. We decided to base ourselves in the most popular white villages for several nights to find out why it’s classified as one of the most beautiful.
On this trip, we decided to stay in a smaller town to continue to discover the Loire Valley. We stayed in the larger city of Tours on a previous visit because it is central and provided easy access to both the southwest and south-eastern parts of the valley. Our stay in Chinon exceeded our expectations ensuring we were in the heart of the Valley.
Discover the Loire Valley
We’ve put together some of our highlights below without giving too much away (we want you to discover the history and beauty for yourselves). However, if you’d like more information or clarification on any of the below or our experiences, please feel free to contact us or ask us in the comments section below.
Chinon
We stayed in Chinon for an authentic Loire Valley experience and found it has all that and more. The city is small enough to be easily walked and large enough to provide plenty of accommodation and dining options when you’ve had a long day visiting the attractions in the surrounding countryside. Remember to save a day to explore Chinon’s cobblestone alleyways and streets too. The town has much to offer.
And, be sure to check with the Tourist Office in the centre of town for any local events that may be happening while you’re in town. We were lucky to be there and attend an outdoor jazz night which was being held on the banks of the river one evening.
Chateau de Chinon
The Chateau de Chinon (the Fortress) sits high above the town. It looks down on you wherever you are in the town. It’s easily accessible by a lift in the town’s main parking area or, if you prefer the experience of taking the old route, there’s a medieval cobbled pathway and steps in the centre of town. The original castle dates back to the 10th century but it was extended and became a fortress in 1154 when Henry II took residence. For the French, the fortress played an important part in the country’s history, the fortress is where Joan of Arc met with King Charles VII and persuaded him the give her an army to liberate Orleans in the Hundred Years’ War. Today the most prominent part of the fortress is the clock tower and the fortress walls.
Church of Saint Etienne
Constructed between 1460 and 1490, we loved its Gothic facade. Pop you inside and have a look at the stained glass windows which tell stories of the city’s history.
Stroll on Rue Rabelais and Rue Voltaire
Take a stroll along this pedestrian-only street and look up at the medieval houses that line the street. It’s also where you’ll find the best shopping, restaurants, bars and cafes. There are more medieval homes along Rue Voltairen including the Red House that are worth looking at.
Chapelle de Radegonde
Tucked away on the hillside above Chinon Old Town is Chappelle de Radegonde It’s a pleasant walking trail which you can enter quite close to the Fortress, with panoramic views over Chinon and beyond, small vineyards and cave dwellings along the way. The 12th-century chapel lay in ruin for many years before being gradually restored. Unfortunately for us, the chapel wasn’t open when we passed by in the early morning. However, we found quite a few cave dwellings along the trail which are slowly being restored too.
Church of Sait Marurice and Haute Saint Maurice Place
We were fortunate to stay in an apartment next door to this Church. Low key with a pretty courtyard in front, the Church is renowned for its beautiful organ. One of the parishioners who welcomed visitors at the front door mentioned that the organ was undergoing maintenance. Whichever way, we were treated to melodic organ music every evening during our stay.
M Plouzeau Wine Caves
Set into the rock at the base of the Fortress are the M Plouzeau Caves. The caves were created as a result of the stone quarried to build the fortress. Today, the cool natural climate of the caves houses the wines of Chinon’s well-known wineries. It’s open for tastings and a nice spend a couple of hours on a hot summer day.
Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau
A short drive from Chinon you’ll find the sandstone villages of Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau. Both towns are situated along the Loire River and blend into each other so it’s hard to avoid visiting one and not the other.
Candes Saint Martin has a medieval path which you can follow leading to an open space surrounded by vineyards which provide panoramic views over the immediate countryside.
Montsoreau’s highlight is its chateau, Chateau de la Dame de Montsoreau. Take a moment to enjoy the street filled with sandstone homes and the Town Hall in the adjoining street.
Both towns are listed among the prettiest villages in the area. We found them to be unremarkable. We researched before we visited. Maybe we missed something.
Fontevraud Abbaye
The village of Fontevrand l’Abbaye, a little further from Montsoreau was bustling with visitors when we arrived. Most were visiting the 10th-century Abbey and monastery. The village has some pretty little side streets and alleys and a lovely courtyard in front of the Abbaye entrance.
Saumur
We stopped in Saumur on our drive to Chinon from Brittany. You can drive there quite easily from Chinon on the main toll road but we recommend you take the scenic route on the country roads along the Loire and Vence Rivers enjoying the scenery as you go.
The main reason for our stop was to see the Chateau de Saumur. Perched high on the hill overlooking the city, it’s hard not to miss. The chateau started out as a fortress in the 900s and was converted to a chateau in the 1400s. You can visit inside. The panoramic views from the grounds of the Chateau are more than worth the visit.
Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau
A stunning turreted chateau situated in the heart of the town and surrounded by lush greenery on park-like grounds. The castle’s point of difference is climbing the stairway in the middle of the castle with views down to the grand entrance and bridge which you have crossed. Amble through the quarters to see how life was lived in Chateau’s heyday.
Stroll the grounds and around the ponds after you visit inside and make sure you walk through the town afterwards. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to have a bite to eat and drink.
Chateau de Langeais
Chateau de Langeais looms grandly over the small township when you arrive in the city of Langeais. It’s very much part of the township.. If you’re arriving in the summer months as we did, you will be greeted with aby a dainty flower-filled street leading to the castle complete with a drawbridge.
You will be able to visit the Castle and its gardens at leisure as it’s not high on the tourist trail. All the more reason to stop by, even if it’s for a peek from the outside.
Chateau d’’Usse
We were driving along a quiet country road along the edge of the forest on one side and the Loire River on the other and suddenly the chateau known locally as the Sleeping Beauty castle appeared. Perched above the roadside complete with a grand entrance over an arched bridge, towers and manicured gardens it’s a regal chateau from all aspects.
Chateau Villandry
One of the jewels of the Loire Valley and our favourite in this part of the Valley. One of the region’s more formal chateaus it emanates an air of opulence. The visit inside provides a glimpse of how the other half lived and a walk through the gardens is delightful, from the carefully manicured hedges to the symmetrical vegetable gardens and terraced areas.
Chateau d’Amboise
We took the drive from Chinon to Amboise on the Chateau Trail. It’s the furthest away from Chinon. Amboise is popular on the trail with visitors opting to stay and come from near and far. It was the busiest of the chateau we visited. When we arrived the whole of the historic town surrounding the Chateau was buzzing.
There is no doubt you will see it from the road as you drive into the city. It holds a commanding and strategic position set high on the hill within the historic centre. It’s worth walking along the riverside to take in the view of the Chateau from the riverside before going closer.
Where we stayed
We stayed in an apartment, Nature and Chateaux in the centre of the historic centre in Chinon. Well appointed and decorated in period furniture, The apartment was well located in the heart of the old town and within walking distance of all the sights and eateries. Our apartment had views up to the fortress and along the streets of the Old Town.
Hint: Don’t be tempted to take the cheaper option and stay on the other side of the river. The best part of staying in the Old Town is being part of the local scene at the end of the day and early morning when there are few or no other tourists around.
Dining options in Chinon
We enjoyed meals at several restaurants in the heart of Chinon:
Jean of France Restaurant in the main square, Place de General de Gaulle.
La Table de Jeanne on Re Voltaire and a stone’s throw from our apartment, Nature & Chateaux.
Les Saveurs d’Italie, in Place de General de Gaulle
And, if you’re looking for a quality croissant or pastry, drop into the patisserie in Place Mirabeau. Be prepared to join the queue.
Our thoughts and recommendations
We loved our stay in Tours on a previous visit. Choosing to stay in Chinon provided us with the opportunity to see and do more while experiencing staying in a small medieval town. All villages and chateaus were easily accessible without travelling long distances and allowed us to linger where we wanted.
It’s easy to try and fit in visits inside lots of castles. We recommend choosing one or two to truly appreciate them. We compare visiting too many castles to visiting too many museums. After a while, you forget what was so special about each one. Save one or two to look forward to on your next visit.
For those who love cycling, the Loire Valley is very conducive to cycling with scenic cycling trails between villages, towns and chateaus. Villages, towns, chateaus and accommodation around the Valley provide cyclist-friendly facilities.
Dreaming of going to Paris and feeling like a local? Over 30 million tourists visit Paris every year with the same dream. For most, that dream disappears when enticed by hotels offering rooms with views of the Eiffel Tower or being within walking distance of the city’s museums and galleries. Whether you’ve going to visit for the first time or if you’re a repeat visitor to complete that dream, let us tell you where to stay in Paris to feel like a local.
If you’ve been following our blog you’ll know that we prefer to travel simply by staying in areas where the locals live. Read on the learn about several wonderful areas in Paris that we’ve discovered where you can live and eat with the locals, and be a tourist.
Chatelet-Les Halles
Chatelet-Les Halles is easily accessible from the airport via the RER and Metro. We exited the station directly into The Forum des Halles, a modern shopping mall. The streets were quiet, and the shops and cafes were still closed. It was still early morning. We learn later in the day why it is one of the locals’ favourite areas.
Chatelet-Les Halles, known as the “belly” of the city has a history dating back over 800 years. A large fresh food marketplace once stood where the shopping mall has been built. Fresh fruit and vegetable were sold during the day in a magnificent building of huge steel arches and, at night, the markets revived selling meat and fish which made it a focal point of the city.
Beaubourg
Our apartment is in the Beaubourg district in the 4th arrondissement. Beaubourg sits on the border of Chatelet-Les Halles and many Parisians claim it to be part of Marais. We have stayed in both areas and prefer to say it’s in Chatelet-Les Halles. Read further in this blog to learn about Marais.
Our apartment windows looked out over the Centre Pompidou, a large public library and the largest gallery of modern art in Europe. The building is eye-catching and it has a lively square where Parisians gathered in the afternoons and evenings.
Our favourite feature of the arrondissement is the atmosphere created by stalls selling all types of goods set up among shopfronts and people milling about. Portrait artists and musicians set up in front of the Centre Pompidou in the evenings. Parisians love to linger in the area after dining at one of the many wonderful eating establishments here.
Another benefit is the area’s proximity to many places to see in Paris. It’s within easy walking distance to the beautiful City Hall, the Notre Dame Cathedral and Pont Neuf crossing over to the Left Bank. You can stroll along the banks of the River Seine to the Louvre and surrounding sights. All wonderful ways to experience the Parisian lifestyle.
Marais
Les Halles was a hit for us. And so was neighbouring Marais. We stayed in the district on our last visit to Paris and were impressed. A short distance from Les Halles, Marais is famous for its cobblestone streets, and hidden gardens and is full of cafes, grocers’ fruiterers and bakeries.
Built on marshlands, it established itself in the 17th and 18th centuries as a popular place to live for the city’s nobility and well-to-do Jewish community who created the stunning mansions. The area lost its appeal when it was slowly overtaken by the shopkeepers, immigrants and the poor. Those times have passed and the area has now re-established itself as a trendy and upmarket area to live in.
Quartier St Paul
Our tiny and expensive apartment was within a small apartment block in the Quartier St Paul area of Marais. However, it allowed us to stay in the heart of the arrondissement and explore further afield once we had discovered the area’s grand buildings and small neighbourhoods. One of the great advantages was that Marais is within a short walking distance of Paris’s Hotel de Ville (Town Hall), the Notre Dame and the banks of the River Seine.
Our favourite spot in the area was Place des Vosges. Hidden off the main road and easily accessible through a side street, the square is one of the oldest in the city and the prettiest. Surrounded by aristocratic buildings, the park is popular with the locals to congregate for picnics on summer evenings. We picked up provisions from the local deli and bakery and joined them one Sunday afternoon. A memorable experience.
St Germain
Not as lively as the Marais and Les Halles-Chatelet areas, staying in the St Germain area was a great way to explore the Left Bank. The area was quieter and more gentile. However, it was the middle of the summer holidays when Parisians leave the city and may be different when the locals are in town! The area is historically linked to renowned literary and artistic identities.
Many patisseries and dining establishments were closed for the three-week summer break. As were the beautiful antique stores. We made do with window shopping!
Shopping in the district’s designer boutiques was not on our agenda. St Germain was the perfect place to base ourselves to see the Musee d’Orsay and St Germain-des Pres, stroll the paths above the River Seine marvelling at the grand buildings lining Quai Voltare and Quai d’Orsay, take in the view from the top deck of the Eiffel before the tourist crowds arrived, and wander leisurely through the Jardins du Luxembourg with the locals on a Sunday afternoon.
Our recommendations
Grab a crusty baguette, some good French wine and cheeses from the host of retailers in Marais and head to Place des Vosges. We had a great time people-watching while enjoying a relaxed evening away from the tourist crowds. Stroll around the square afterwards and take a peek at #6 where Victor Hugo lived while he wrote “Les Miserables”.
From Les Halles-Chatelet or Marais, take a walk to Canal St Martin. Built in the early 1800s, the area was home to the working class in times past. It has evolved to become a trendy area to live where locals come to sit on the banks, cruise on the canal or enjoy an aperitif on summer evenings.
From St Germain, take a morning walk through the backstreets. Have Paris to yourself and end up at the Eiffel Tower before the tourists so you can savour the captivating views from the top without lining up in queues or vying for space on the platform.
Based on either the Left or Right Bank during the spring and summer months and close to Ile de la Cite? Grab a nice bottle of French wine with some nibbles and wander to Pont Neuf. Follow the steps down to Square du Vert Galant, a pretty green space to join the locals.
We benefited from spending a wonderful afternoon with a Stroll Buddy (previously called Global Greeters). Pascal took us on a walking tour of the Left Bank seeing inside and behind hidden entrances that only a local will know about.
Want to go shopping? The Forum shopping mall has all that you might need. However, you’ll find the small boutiques in Chatelet-Les Halles, Marais and Canal St Martin more interesting and full of unique products.
Visit the beach in Paris. In the summer months, the banks of the River Seine are created into artificial beaches They become a place to escape the city crowds, and enjoy the activities, entertainment and festive atmosphere that comes with Paris-Plages. Created for the city residents who cannot escape the heat of summer, it has become a hit with locals, tourists and travellers.
Picnic at Pont NeufOr go to the beach
What do you think?
We hope we have whet your appetite to be a traveller, to see more and feel like a local in Paris!
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