Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Category: Our recommendations (Page 2 of 6)

Sticky post Galleria Borghese, Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome
The inviting entrance to the Galleria Borghese museum

Why you will love this free attraction in Rome

26/08/2020 / / 7 Comments

A short distance from Piazza di Spagna and Rome’s bustling tourist district lies a sanctuary that few except locals know of. We think it’s worth taking the time to pay a visit to this free attraction in Rome.

Villa Borghese is a sprawling park on Pincio Hill. Covering over 80 hectares, there are a number of ways to enter the gardens. Our favourite is from the Spanish Steps, by turning left at the top in front of the Trinita dei Monti and walking up the gentle sloping pathway to the entrance.

Villa Borghese was established in the early 1600s when Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew to Pope Paul V decided to turn his city vineyard into Rome’s most extensively landscaped garden. Over years a number of attractions were added turning the Gardens into a small parcel of paradise in the middle of the city. The State acquired the Gardens from the Borghese family in the early 1900s and opened them for the public to enjoy.

We have visited the park over a number of visits and have still to complete our exploration. Some highlights we’ve discovered:

Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument

A non-descript monument to take note of as you enter via the sloping pathway from the top of the Spanish Steps. Look down over or walk down to the monument for a closer look.

The monument honours a small contingent of compatriots who fought in a campaign to liberate Rome from the rule of Pope Pius IX. Enrico led the small contingent suffering in the attack and the monument depicts Giovanni, his younger brother supporting his dying brother up the Spanish Steps. The names of the other volunteer fighters can be found on the monument.

Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument, Rome
Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument

Pincio Terrace

Walk further ahead once you enter the park and you’ll find one of the best photo spots in Rome. The terrace provides a commanding view of the domes and rooftops that make up Rome’s skyline and it’s the perfect place to do a little landmark spotting. It also gives you a birdseye view over Piazza del Popolo.

Domes of Rome
You can never have enough of looking out to the domes and rooftops of Rome
Piazza del Popolo
Watch the comings and goings over Piazza del Popolo from the Pincio Terrace.

Temple of Aesculapius

The Temple of Aesculapius sits on a small island in the middle of an artificial lake not far from Pincio Terrace.

A serene spot in the park, the temple dedicated to the God of Medicine and built in 1785 is said to replicate an ancient temple originally situated on the River Tiber.

You can hire a row boat to lazily while away an afternoon on the lake.

The idyllic Temple of Aesculapius on the lake

The Water Clock

Looking for something quirky? Find the water clock (hydrochronometer) in the gardens not far from the Pincio. It was built for display at the Universal Exposition held in Paris in 1867 and brought back to be placed in a fountain in the Gardens in 1873. It still works.

Water clock in the Villa Borghese Gardens
The Water Clock hidden in the Villa Borghese Gardens

Galleria Borghese

Our favourite attraction in the park, Galleria Borghese was originally called Casa Nobile.

The Villa Borghese houses a number of museums within its grounds. The Galleria Borghese is the highlight and one of the world’s leading museums. While not large, it houses some of the finest artworks and sculptures from the 1500s to 1800s. Works by Bernini, Raphael and Carravaggio are housed in an intimate setting.

Tickets for a timeslot are required. A guarantee that you won’t be vying with other art enthusiasts to view the masterpieces. Book your tickets well in advance to avoid missing out on your preferred date and time. We can guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Galleria Borghese, Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome
The inviting entrance to the Galleria Borghese museum
Galleria Borghese, Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome

Other ways to enjoy the Gardens

Take a walk in the park

The shaded walking paths lined with busts, fountains, manicured gardens (some reflecting an old English style), and rotundas weren’t opened to the public until the early 1900s. Today, you can stroll through the park exploring all its nooks and crannies to find the secret gardens spotted throughout the park.

Visit the zoo

The Villa Borghese Gardens is also home to the Bioparco di Roma Zoo which is a wonderful way to break away from the historical sites and entertain children if you are travelling as a family. When you’re finished visiting the Bioparco, drop by to watch the puppetry show at the Teatro Dei Burattani San Carlino. With puppet theatre not so common these days, it will give the children a special experience to treasure.

Stop by the equestrian arena

If you like watching equestrian events, and you’re visiting Rome in May, stop by the Piazza di Siena to watch the International Horse Show, one of the most well-known horseriding events in Italy. The event is free and open to the public.

Go to the theatre or watch a movie

If you are not excited by horse events and prefer something with a hint of culture then take in a Shakespearian play at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre. Emulating the famous Globe Theatre in London, it’s the only Elizabethan theatre in Italy.

Otherwise buy a ticket to one of the summer outdoor screenings of the Casa Del Cinema, an arthouse movie theatre.

Browse through another gallery, or two

The Borghese Gallery is just one of several galleries in the gardens. We are looking forward to visiting the 16th-century mansion, Villa Medici which houses the French Academy on our next visit to have a look inside its beautiful interior.

You can also visit the Museo Pietro Canonica which is dedicated to the work of artist Pietro Canonica or the Museo Carloi Bilotti which displays the large art collection of billionaire Carlo Bilotti

Cycle around the Gardens

If you’re not keen on walking around the gardens or are pressed for time, then an easy way to explore the sprawling gardens is to rent a bicycle. The park has a number of cycle rental vendors spotted around the park. A more novel way to see the sights around the gardens is to hire a quadricycle. The four-seater electric quadricycles are fun and a family-friendly way to enjoy an afternoon.

A picnic in the Borghese

After all the rushing from one monument to another, a great way to have a bit of downtime is to gather some goodies from the markets in the morning, pack a picnic lunch and find a shady spot in the Gardens to while away an hour or two.

Time out to exercise

Like to exercise? The park’s wide trails are the perfect place to take a run, jog or power walk. Or, roll out your yoga mat in one of the many secluded spots for the perfect start to your day in the Eternal City.

Jogging in the Borghese Gardens
What better way to start the day in Rome than a jog along the trails in the Borghese Gardens

People watch

The perfect way to complete your visit to the Villa Borghese is to take a seat on the park bench (you might find one close to a street musician) and enjoy a little people-watching. The Park is a sanctuary for Romans to escape the chaos of their city. If you visit on a Sunday afternoon you’ll find family groups enjoying the many recreational activities or young and elderly couples taking a romantic passeggiata around the park.

The Villa Borghese is the perfect sanctuary in the heart of Rome

Our conclusion

These are just a few of the many activities offered in Villa Borghese. We have yet to explore more of the Gardens. We’ll definitely be spending time there on our next visit to Rome. We have been entranced by this haven in the city. It will take just one visit for you to love it too.

P.S.
We’ll have more to say about the Galleria Borghese, our favourite art museum, in a dedicated post coming soon. Make sure you sign up to receive an email notification when we tell you about our favourite gallery in more detail. You’ll be as mesmerised as we were!

P.P.S.
And, if you found this suggestion useful for your next visit to Rome, then you may like these posts:

Ambleside township
Leave enough time to wander around Ambleside

The best hiking trail in the Lake District

27/06/2020 / / 4 Comments

We had been talking about visiting the Lake District for some time. The perfect opportunity arose when we visited one of our tribe who was living in Oxford for a time. He had stopped off there on the way to Scotland in the middle of winter and was keen to join us to see its beauty in the height of summer. And, take us on one of the best hikes in the Lake District.

We made the drive from Oxford in a day, stopping for lunch and a walk around the city of Chester. Known for its Roman walls and tudor-style half-timber buildings of Chester Rows, the city was a convenient mid-point on our drive north with plenty to see.

Our decision to stay in the small town of Kendal on the outskirts of the Lake District was two-fold; we wanted to spend time around the Lakes and also the Yorkshire Dales. The Castle Green Hotel was the perfect accommodation decision. It provided a cosy sanctuary after our long days of exploring.

On the recommendation of hotel staff, our first hike took us from the township of Ambleside to Grasmere. Sitting at the head of Lake Windermere, the township of Ambleside is a short 20-minute drive from Kendal and worthy of spending some time wandering around its watermills, the Bridge House and pretty township.

Leave enough time to wander around Ambleside

A small path behind St Mary’s Church led us over a quaint bridge and up a gently sloping trail surrounded by farmland to a lookout over the expansive Lake Windermere. The trail then carried on downhill through luscious green pastures, around small lakes and along pebbled paths intermittently lines with old stone houses which seemed to have been part of the landscape for hundreds of years. We were even treated to several flyovers by British fighter jets as we arrived closer to Grasmere.

A glimpse of Ambleside township from the walking trail
Lake Windemere

The village of Grasmere is known for hosting many poets, craftsmen and artists in its time. Samuel Taylor Coleridge, Sir Walter Scott, Robert Southey and William Wordsworth amongst others found inspiration in Grasmere’s beautiful surroundings. Wordsworth lived there for 15 years. You’ll find Wordworth’s family plot at St Oswald’s Church in the centre of Grasmere.

The beautiful surroundings are not the only reason visitors come to Grasmere. Chocolate from the handmade chocolate shop and the legendary gingerbread found at shops in the village are special treats to look forward to at the end of the walk.

We came upon some handsome stone dwellings along the picturesque paths

We enjoyed an indoor lunch at a cute coffee shop followed by an ice cream cone from the booth directly outside. And, after an amble through the village, prepared ourselves for the return journey on an alternative route back to Ambleside where our car was parked.

The Lake District is known for its rainy disposition. Our walk from Ambleside to Grasmere had been accompanied by cloudy skies and we were not surprised to have the heavens open up on us as we walked to the starting point of our return trail.

With no sign of the rain easing, we decided to take the bus back to Ambleside.

Like our walk up the Old Man of Coniston returning to complete the Grasmere to Ambleside trail and enjoying some of the other trails is high on our list.

Sticky post

Did you know that universities have amazing architecture and more?

20/06/2020 / / 0 Comments

“Have you been to the University?” asked our Greeter, Dino as he led us out of the San Bernadino alle Ossa church in Milan after having a look inside its unique side chapel filled with human bones. We had never visited the church despite it being just a short distance from our accommodation in central Milan, where we have stayed on past visits.

The answer to Dino’s question was “No”, even though like the church the University of Milan is only a short walk from the centre of Milan.

We’ve been fortunate to stay in many university towns during our travels albeit during the summer when many students have vacated the towns over the summer holiday period.

Universities in our home country are young so there is a sense of awe in visiting towns to be surrounded by jaw dropping architecture and to tread along streets where scholars have stridden for hundreds of year.

Some of our favourites (in no particular order):

Oxford University, Oxfordshire, England

We were fortunate to have one of our tribe live in this beautiful English city for a time so we had the opportunity to see more of the city than we had on a past day trip when we joined a short walking tour which led us around the more popular colleges. A longer stay gave us the time to appreciate the history and the stately architecture of the some 38 colleges which make up the University. All were within walking distance of our accommodation. We were able to spend a full afternoon at the Oxford University Museum of Natural History, and amble along the canals of watching the boats move through the lock systems. We watched rowers go through their paces while punters cruised lazily along the river. We took day trips around the surroundings through picturesque villages and countryside. Oxford is  worthy of more than a day trip from London.

Historic architecture can be found around every corner in Oxford

Cambridge University, Cambridge, England

We drove to Cambridge on a day visit. While similar to Oxford (it was established by some Oxford rebels), the University precinct seems smaller and easy to manage on a daytrip. We traversed through some of the quieter back streets, and came out to the lively Kings Parade to Kings College, stopped to watch chocolatiers prepare fresh delectable and summer picnickers sitting on the banks of the River Cam while others took a relaxed punt. We noticed a notably more casual air about the city.

The beautifully manicured lawns and gardens of Kings College

La Sorbonne, Paris, France

Pascal, our Paris Greeter, showed us around his city for an afternoon. Knowing that we would re-visit many of the city’s popular attractions on our own, Pascal concentrated on showing us parts of his city he knew we would not find on our own. He opened gates and doorways into sanctuaries we would never have found around the Left Bank including La Sorbonne, one of the oldest and famous universities in the world. The serene courtyard of Les Ecoles, was one such sanctuary. Les Ecoles is a hostel for female university students inspired by the Spanish Saint Josemaria Escriva, the founder of Opus Dei movement.

The courtyard sanctuary of Les Ecoles, La Sorbonne, Paris

University of Milan, Italy

The University of Milan boasts teaching facilities in buildings of historical significance in central Milan. Dino ushered us into the entrance of the former Palazzo dating back to the 15th century.

We were greeted by a beautiful courtyard filled with a luscious green lawn surrounded by a covered arcade around the perimeter. Similar but smaller courtyards branched off from the left and right. Two of these hold further historical significance. Each has an archaeological site displaying ancient Roman ruins. The first is relatively intact, displaying the remains of the Roman version of a refrigerator, and the second, the remains of a large kitchen.

The main building of the University known as “La Cá Granda” (the Big House) was used as a hospital for the poor until after the Second World War when it was handed over to the University.  The Law and Humanities Library is now housed in one of the largest old hospital wards. Wander in and imagine it full of hospital beds.

Brera Academy of Fine Arts, Milan, Italy

Located on the site of a former monastery, the Academy in Palazzo Brera shares its location with the Pinacoteca di Brera, the main gallery for paintings in Milan, the Astronomical Observatory and Botanica Gardens located behind the Palazzo. There is plenty to fill your afternoon here before you dine at one of the many restaurants in the area.

Start your visit in the courtyard where you’ll find a replica of the nude bronze sculpture of the great French rule, Napoleon. Take a wander along the corridors and into the galleries. You may be treated to some more modern art pieces if students were showing their art portfolios at the time. The piece de resistance for us was walking up the grand staircase and stepping inside the Great Library, one of Europe’s oldest libraries with its wood-panelled reading room and books dating back to the 1600’s lining in glass bookshelves.

The bronze statue of Napoleon Bonaparte at the entrance to the Brera

University of Vienna, Vienna, Austria

Known for its music and culture, the University, founded in 1365, the third oldest university in central Europe. While the University is spread out in buildings throughout the city, the main building at the “New University” on the Ringstrasse (the “Old University” is located near the Jesuit Church) is worthy of entering. The building hosts domed entrances, elegant staircases and beautiful hallways, a shaded courtyard where summer students gather. At the entrance there is a display of photographs of the 20 Nobel prize winners who studied at the University.

The Old University is not generally open to the public but you will be able to take a look at the exterior of the building and if you get to have a look inside, head to the main hall to see the frescoes. It won’t be a wasted visit, there is plenty to see around the area. Look out for an upcoming post dedicated to our visit to Vienna.

The grand staircases and hallways of the University of Vienna

University of Southern California, Los Angeles, USA

The primary purpose of our visit to USC was to visit a family member who works there. We met her at her office space in a building just off campus which gave us the perfect chance to enjoy seeing more than the University buildings. Instead, as we walked toward the main University buildings to have lunch, we walked through the streets of sorority and fraternity houses, some with students enjoying the summer afternoon outdoors throwing a ball around.

The University was founded in 1880 and is the oldest private research university in California. A recent renewal of the University campus has introduced beautifully gardened quadrangles and open areas intermingled with the old and new red brick buildings designed to reflect Romanesque architecture.

The red brick buildings of the University of Southern California campus

When is the best time of the year to visit Tuscany?

06/04/2020 / / 1 Comment

We think the best time to visit Tuscany is in summer when the vineyards are green and vines drooping with grapes ready to harvest and pastures are full of sunflowers following the sun’s daily path.

Having stayed in the larger cities of Florence and Sienna on past visits we decided to settle in the smaller town of Arezzo for a few days so we could explore the countryside north and south of it.

Make sure you enter the old town before 5pm our host warned us otherwise you won’t be able to drive your car in. And, follow the map we have provided; do not trust the navigation system (very deceptive). We understood why once we entered the gates of the historic old town. The streets are a maze of narrow alleys with colourful flags hanging on street corners.

Giostra flags flying in the streets of Arezzo

Giostra flags flying in the streets of Arezzo

Stephano looks after his family-owned apartment on the first floor of a building built in the 16th century where we are staying. He is excited that our visit to Arezzo coincides with the Giostra Del Saracino (the annual jousting festival) being held at the weekend telling us that there will be plenty of things happening in the lead-up. Check-in is complete and the car is parked in a garage so the streets can be kept clear for the practice sessions.

Stepping outside into the small square there are two police officers guarding the small square outside our apartment. Why are they guarding the spot; are they expecting big crowds or hooliganism? “No, it’s just to keep the streets clear in preparation for the joust. The area is the base for setting up the knights in armour before the joust”, the policewoman who speaks impeccable English tells us. Sonia proudly tells us that she is a competitive flag-waver and has visited Australia for a competition. Both officers are helpful with suggestions about what we should do and see during our few days in the area.

Our first stop is the main square, Piazza Grande. A beautiful square unique for both the coats of arms which adorn the facades of the medieval buildings around the square and for its sloping red brick surface, it is known as home to the annual Giostra and the Fiera Antiquaria, a monthly antique fair where up to 500 dealers fill the square on the first Sunday of every month. Enchanting at the best of times, it is even more so as we watch musicians rehearse in preparation for the Giostra.

Piazza Grande, Arezzo - Giostra de Saracino

Piazza Grande in preparation for the big jousting competition

The Giostra dates back to medieval times and continues the tradition where the town separates into four quarters (each quarter has their own flag) during the Giostra. Two knights are nominated to represent their quarter in the joust. Dressed in medieval costume, the knights, cheered on by their supporters and residents of their quarter, ride into the square to strike the Saracen (a wooden figure covered in armour) with their lance. The team which hurts the figure the most wins.

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We are enlightened about the jousting tradition when we come across a local dressed as a knight standing outside the doorway of the official contest office. He invites us in to show us memorabilia while giving us the history behind the joust tournament in his limited English. An abbreviated description: in the 14th century, the people of Rome called the people of countries on the east side of the Roman Empire (Persians, Turks, Arabs and all Muslims) Saracens. A number of battles were fought between the two religions where the Christians defeated the Muslims. The recreation of these battles by staging festive jousting contests started in the 16th century.

Saturday night arrives and the town is bustling in anticipation. There is a festive spirit as many enjoy an evening out for aperitifs and a meal before the highlight. We do the same! We partake in an evening ritual we have adopted by stopping at the bar where we had enjoyed our coffee earlier in the day to enjoy a refreshing Aperol Spritz with tapas before continuing on around the corner for a beautiful meal in the garden setting at Osteria il Grottino.

Taking a stroll to digest our dinner before having a gelato, we arrive on Corso Italia just as the parade is commencing. Drummers, trumpets, armoured warriors, flag-wavers, jousters on horseback create a wonderful precursor to what is yet to come.

Armoured knights, Arezzo

The parade having passed and with a gelato in hand we continue on to the arena in the Piazza and find a vantage point. Tickets for the event seating has been sold out in advance so we find a spot among the crowd lining the perimeter of the square to listen to the bands and fanfare before the competition starts. Then it starts. Turn by turn the knights on horseback thunder down the narrow alley heading straight to the Saracen accompanied by the roar of the crowd in support of their knight. Hearing both is exhilarating.

No time is wasted on the contest and before we know it, it’s all over and we scurry back to our apartment before the jovial crowd disperses.

Our conclusion

If you are interested in medieval history and would like an authentic experience, the joust season is the perfect time to visit Arezzo. Our honest opinion, we would say any time is a good time. Stay a few days because there is much to see in do in the town and surrounding countryside.

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A little more info

Where we stayed:

Il Mezzanino is in the historic centre. A modern apartment in a historic building, it captures the charm of Arezzo’s past. The apartment is well placed to walk to the main tourist attractions (Piazza Grande, the Cathedral of San Donato and the Santa Maria della Pieve church). Listen out for the church bells chiming and the sound of Gregorian chants emitting from the small church in the courtyard outside the apartment on Sunday mornings.

Some of the other towns we visited in the area:

  • Castiglion Fiorentino is a little walled town sitting on a hill with picturesque views over the surrounding countryside 19km from Arezzo. It sits on the road between Arezzo and Cortona and worth stopping for a look on the way. Sonia, the policewoman we met in Arezzo suggested we visit. It is her home town and she runs a B&B in the town – Suites San Michele which is where we will base ourselves on our next visit to the area.
  • Cortona is hilltop town about 28km from Arezzo with fantastic views to Lake Trasimeno and across the southern Tuscan countryside.  The town was made famous by the author Frances Mayes in her book and subsequently in the film “Under the Tuscan Sun”. Wander its streets and into the beautiful Piazza della Republica where the nativity scene was filmed.
  • Montepulciano is another hilltop town about 60km from Arezzo via Cortona. We detoured taking a scenic drive along the back country roads lined with sunflower farms, vineyards and orchards to reach the town. A historic town full of palaces, churches and pretty squares and steep streets it provides stunning views over the valleys that we had just driven through. The area is known for its Nobile wine and there are plenty of shopfronts for family-owned vineyards in the town where you stop to taste and buy.

And, one more thing:

If you liked this post, you may like our recommendation on taking a drive in the Chianti area of Tuscany.

A highlight in Bangkok most visitors miss

18/02/2020 / / 1 Comment

It is dark outside as we start our morning walk.

Expecting the city streets to be quiet so we can watch it awaken, we find it is anything but! Everyone has made a head start on us. The roads are jammed with traffic and pavements are busy with owners of micro-businesses staking their claim to a place on the footpath. Further ahead a group of young Buddhist monks stand patiently on a street corner hoping that passers-by will fill their vessels with alms.

We negotiate the footpath avoiding the temptation to stop and look. There will be plenty of time later in the day. For now, we are headed to the largest green space in Bangkok, Lumpini Park.

Lumpini Park

Lumpini Park is where Bangkok’s city folk go for a respite from the hustle and bustle that is going on beyond its boundaries. There are 57 hectares to explore with lots of greenery, open spaces and shaded areas off the paths.

Early morning is the best time to visit, not only because it is cooler but also because it is the best time to capture the essence of what the park means to the people of Bangkok.

Group activities in Lumpini Park

By the time we arrive daylight has just broken and the paths around the park are already full with runners, joggers, fast and slow walkers while on the manicured lawns, various forms of tai chi are being performed by groups of all ages. Elsewhere, yoga mats are spread out with yogis practising their poses. We notice there are plenty of shaded seating areas. Most are full of groups of people.  Some have elderly women spreading breakfast out on tables to share while they have a natter and under others, groups are practising their musical instruments. We come across a patch filled with outdoor fitness equipment being very well used.

Tai chi

There were groups of people practising the graceful art of Tai Chi throughout the Park

Giant lizards in the Park

We take our time meandering through the park and around the lake. As a part of the path nears the lakeside we are surprised by several giant lizards in the water and parading about on the lawns. They look very much like Komodo dragons. The locals seem unperturbed by their presence and go about their business so we feel safe but are mindful about keeping our distance though just in case they are dangerous. We find out later that these are Monitor lizards and completely harmless unless they feel threatened. They are part of the ecosystem that keeps the park free of dead fish and birds.

Monitor lizards in Lumpini Park

Monitor lizards in Lumpini Park

Fitness in the Park

The Park holds something for everyone. We come across seniors club; a dedicated building where the elderly can gather for formal activities, in a far corner a ball-room dance class is in session with a group of middle-aged couples taking part. Further on, we come across a dilapidated looking outdoor gym with a hotch-potch of rusty gym equipment. It looks abandoned and we wonder if anyone uses it. We find it being well-used when we walk past on another day.

Open air gym in Lumpini Park

The open-air gym in Lumpini Park

As we near the end of our circuit we hear music pumping from loudspeakers and arrive at the park entrance to see the iconic Lumpini Park aerobics class in full swing. At least sixty people of all ages and fitness levels are following the moves of the energetic instructor on stage. The class is free and held every morning and evening. It’s worth joining in for the fun, laughter and fitness or simply stop to watch the fun.

Daily aerobic classes in Lumpini Park

The aerobic classes looked like fun

Go to Lumpini Park at any time of the day and you will find yourself amongst locals. The Park loses many of its users by 8am if you prefer to visit at a quieter time. However, if like us, you prefer to watch a city come to life, arrive as dawn breaks. Be entertained, get your daily dose of exercise and enjoy the Park with the locals.

Lumpini park

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