Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Category: Things to do (Page 1 of 4)

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

06/01/2023 / / 2 Comments

Planning on visiting Malaga or Seville? Read on to find out why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

Southern Spain is speckled with pueblo blancos (white towns). Each has its own character and it’s hard not to get caught up visiting all of them. If you’re short on time, Ronda is the one town to visit.

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

We chose Ronda as our base for several days because of its point of difference from the other white villages.

Steeped in history, the city sits on two sides of a deep gorge connected by a fantastic bridge—the bridge, Puento Nuevo (new bridge) was built in 1793.

Our apartment was located in Plaza Espana next to Puento Nuevo, with an added “wow” factor. Our expansive patio looked out over the magnificent Sierra de las Nieves! The Tourist Office around the corner from our apartment armed us with a map and options on how to spend our time in the town.

Views to the Sierra de las Nieves from Ronda
Views of the Sierra de las Nieves from our apartment patio

We were fortunate to arrive on a Saturday when a free flamenco concert was being held in Ronda’s Old Town.

A summer evening in Ronda

The views from both sides of the bridge are dramatic, and it is the first place to stop to soak in the scenery before you explore the old town.

In the Old Town, we followed the sound of music down some cobblestone alleys to appear at an open-air area where the rehearsal was in progress. Moving on, we stopped in a pretty square to visit the cathedral, Santa Maria de la Mayor. An added pleasure was watching a wedding party emerge.

The plaza offers several restaurants if you’d like to eat in the quiet precinct. We opted for the low-key garden restaurant to try a few of the local dishes on offer. The food portions are large and delicious.

Back at the concert venue, we found the seats were filling up fast. Instead of sitting down with the audience, we decided to sit on the ledge above to watch people and observe. By 10:00 pm, the arena was full. Concertgoers came dressed for the occasion and the atmosphere was jovial as the concert commenced.

We left after an hour, wishing we understood the language better so we could have enjoyed the music, singing and dancing as much as the locals did.

The Cathedral was spectacularly lit up as we passed by on the way back to our apartment. At 11:30 pm. townsfolk were still out and about in droves, and the town was buzzing. Just one of the benefits of visiting in the summer months.

Things to do in incredible Ronda

Enjoy the dramatic views from Mirador Aldehuela

Mirador Aldehuela is on the Old Town side of Puento Nuevo and directly opposite Plaza Espana. We recommend that it’s one of the first things you do. The dramatic views down to the Guadelevin River flowing at the bottom of the gorge surrounded by the cliff formations are jaw-dropping.

Views of the gorge, Ronda, Spain
Views of the gorge from Mirador Aldehuela

Take in the evening views of Puento Nuevo

For another perspective of Puento Nuevo, stroll along Mirador de Aves via the pathway from Plaza Espana in the evening.

It’s a great place to linger as the sun goes down. As darkness falls and the lights around the gorge turn on, highlighting the bridge. The bridge looked spectacular, and the gorge seemed rather eery.

Puento Nuevo, Ronda at night
Puento Nuevo, Ronda at night

Take a hike in the El Tajo Gorge

Morning dawned with hot air balloons hovering over our balcony. They skimmed across the sky to hover above the gorge and valley. The views must be unique from above.

The Tourist Office recommended hiking the Molinos del Tajo route, which leads down from the Old Town into the El Tajo Gorge. This would be the best way to experience the town’s distinctive qualities. We took their recommendation and were not disappointed.

Views of Ronda's Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge
Views of Ronda’s Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge

The main path takes you to the waterfall just below the bridge with some viewpoints providing breathtaking views of the bridge. You can then walk some of the quieter paths leading further downhill to capture bridge views from different angles before circumnavigating to the other side of town towards the old Roman bridge and visiting the Arab Baths. We returned to the township via Jardines de Cuenca, and the spectacular viewpoints spread at intervals across the gardens before emerging in Plaza Espana from the other end of the Puento Nuevo.

The early morning is the perfect time to do the two-hour walk, especially if you are visiting in summer. The temperature is cool, and, at this time of the day, there are not many people on the trails. It provides a wonderful opportunity to savour the views from the lookouts and take unobstructed photos.

Step inside the Arab Baths and walk over the Roman Bridge

If you follow the walking route around to the eastern side of the town, you’ll end up at the Arab Baths.

Relatively intact, the baths provide a peek into the Moorish heritage of the town. This part of town was originally the main entrance into Ronda, and the baths sat just outside the city walls and next to the Mosque. Locals and visitors would stop to cleanse their bodies at the baths before going to the Mosque

A little further around the corner, you’ll find more another remnant of old Ronda with the Roman Bridge at the original entrance to Ronda.

The Roman Bridge, Ronda, Spain
A couple look over the Arab bath site from the old Roman Bridge

Visit the Plaza de Toros

One of the oldest in Spain, Ronda’s bullring stands as a centrepiece as you enter the Old Town. Two statues honouring two sons of the town stand at the entrance. Statues honouring two of the town’s famous matadors, a father (Antonio Ordonez) and son (Cayetano Ordonez) stand proudly at the entrance. With bullfighting falling out of favour in recent times, the bullring serves mainly as a museum these days. Bullfighting is, however, embedded in the culture of the town and once a year in September, the Plaza de Toros truly comes to life when the Feria de Pedro Romero is held along with several others in southern Spain.

The bullring, Plaza de Toros, Ronda, Spain
Ronda’s bullring, Plaza de Toros

Mirador de Ronda – scenic lookout of the gorge and mountains

A few minutes’ stroll from Plaza Espana, and through the flower gardens is another lookout to the amazing mountain ranges and the gorge. For spectacular sunset views, take a seat on the steps of the rotunda from where you can watch one of the world’s best sunsets.

Visit Setenil de las Bodegas

The small white village of Setenil de las Bodegas is a twenty-minute drive from Ronda and worth a visit whether you are staying in Ronda or just hopping from one white town to another on your way through southern Spain.

Why? Setenil is not just another white village and is unique in its own right for the town’s hilltop castle, which was once an Arab fortress. Even more, it is famous because of the village houses built into the rock and cliffside.

Setenil de las Bodegas
Dwellings built into the cliff face in Setenil de las Bodegas

The village is very popular for its culinary fare. The original houses built into the cliff are now mostly tavernas or restaurants serving the chorizo sausages that the village is famous for. We arrived in the village for a late afternoon visit to find the village still brimming with tourists.

Once you’ve had a wander around the area below, follow the steps up to a small lookout to take a seat and survey the pueblo from above. You’ll find it a great vantage point to view the castle/fortress.

Setenil de las Bodegas lookout, Ronda, Spain
Views of the castle and township from the lookout

Shopping on Carrera Espinel

Carerra Espinel is a one-kilometre pedestrian street with shopping for all budgets. However, Carrera Espinel is worth a walk down for its festive spirit. Part of the way along veer into the pretty Plaza del Socorro, where you’ll find a few dining options and the Inglesia del Sirocco. It’s a pretty square in an incredible town!

Plaza del Socorro, Ronda, Spain
Plaza del Socorro, Ronda, Spain

Our conclusion

Steeped in history and jaw-dropping scenery, Ronda was true to all that we had read about the town and the amazing photography we had seen when researching places to visit in southern Spain. Ronda did not disappoint!

You simply should not leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda!

One more thing

Looking for more pueblo blancos to visit. Click on the link below to read more.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

22/10/2022 / / 3 Comments

When researching where to visit in southern Spain, places like Seville, Malaga and Granada frequently arose. We have found another area to include on your itinerary. See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

The white villages (pueblos blancos) are easily visited from Seville, Cadiz or Malaga on a day visit. The best way to appreciate them and their atmosphere (each varies) is to stay in one. We based ourselves in Ronda and stopped at a few villages on the way there. Here are some that stood out for us.

Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez de la Frontera is the largest of the white villages/towns and is famous for two things:

  • the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art and breeding and training horses; and
  • producing some of the best sherry in the world.

Vineyards accompanied us on the road and on reaching the Jerez, we found it brimming with bodegas (cellars). Producers here make sherry from a particular grape variety (Palamino) which grows in the chalky soil of this part of Spain. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you are looking for tasting cellars. Look out for the area’s most famous brand, Tio Pepe which stands prominently on the hillside as you drive into the town.

We weren’t in Jerez to taste the sherry or check out the equestrian centre. We wanted to visit the old town. Vehicular access is prohibited so we parked outside the zone, an extra dimension to our visit. Derelict houses lined the alleys and streets as we walked towards what we hoped was the central plaza. What the city may have to offer a visitor was questionable!

The backstreets of Jerez de la Frontera
The backstreets of Jerez de la Frontera

Ten minutes of winding through the alleys brought us to a quiet main road which we followed a short way uphill. Suddenly out of nowhere, Plaza de la Asuncion appeared. A small but charming old square with a significant history. A 15th-century Gothic Mudejar-style church, the Church of San Dionisio is on one side, the former town hall dating back to the 16th century, on another. In the middle, you’ll find the Monumento a la Asuncion.

A short walk along the lane took us to one of the most important squares in Jerez de la Frontera, Plaza del Arenal. It’s the heart of the old town and was once the scene of fights and duels in the 16th century. These days, it’s a beautiful open space hosting statues of renowned identities surrounded by beautiful old buildings. The colourful carousel in the corner adds to its charm and vibrancy.

Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez de la Frontera

We came across the striking Jerez Cathedral. It’s a beautiful building dating back to the 17th century combining Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Classical styles towering over the street as we returned to the car.

Jerez Cathedral, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
Jerez Cathedral

Arcos de la Frontera

Arcos de la Frontera is one of the lesser-visited white towns. Set on a hilltop, we detoured slightly north from Cadiz to Ronda to explore this hilltop town.

Parking in Plaza del Cabildo is limited and narrow alleyways to navigate on the hill. We decided to find a car park in the town area below (Hint: bring good walking shoes to make your way uphill on the cobbled pathway). The views of the white town as we walked towards more than made up for taking the steep incline on a hot summer morning.

Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera, Spain
Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Plaza del Cabildo

The main street, Calle Cuesta Belen took us to our first stop, Plaza del Cabildo. Beautiful buildings surround this main square on three sides (Basilica de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, Castillo Ducal, the town hall and the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera, a hotel). The Mirador del Cono is the highlight of the Plaza. It serves as a cliffside balcony to look out over the Rio Guadalete.

Explore the narrow alleyways

One of the highlights of our visit to Arcos de la Frontera was getting lost in the little alleys around the town. The best place to start is to go back to the Cuesta Belen entrance of the Plaza and enter through the archway on the left just before the Parador. You’ll find yourself in the maze of alleyways lined with whitewashed houses.

The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain
The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Things to look out for:

  • Inglesia de San Pedro – the church and its Baroque bell tower are just as impressive as the Basilica in Plaza del Cabildo.
  • Palacio del Mayorazgo – when you’ve finished gazing at the Iglesia de San Pedro, turn around. This narrow building dates back to the 17th century. It is now home to a cultural centre. Pop in to admire the building’s interior and the exhibitions.
  • Find and stroll along Calle Cuna and Calle Maldonaldo. Both are lined with Palacios and worthy of finding your way to.
  • Another street to find is Calle Nueva lined. It’s lined with colourful pots against the whitewashed buildings.
  • Visit the Convento de la Mercerdarias. The convent was closed during our visit, however, all the information we read before our visit recommended a visit. The convent dates back to 1642 and is a classic example of a cloistered convent.
  • Follow the path from Calle Nueva onwards to Mirador Abades. If you thought the views from the mirador in Plaza Cabildo were spectacular, we classified Mirador Abades as the perfect finale for our visit. Go ahead and take a look for yourselves.
Expansive views from the Mirador Abades, Arcos de la Frontera
Expansive views from the Mirador Abades

Don’t forget to pop your head into the novelty stores and tapas bars.

Zahara de la Sierra

Zahara de la Sierra is an hour’s drive from Arcos de la Frontera. We passed a few more Pueblo Blancos on the way. Zahara de la Sierra’s Moorish castle is perched high up on the hill coming into view from afar

Zahara de la Sierra, Spain
Driving towards Zahara de la Sierra

Again, we found it best to use the car park at the bottom of the hill. It was also the best way to savour the beauty of the laneways and Moorish houses on the way to Plaza Mayor, the village’s main square. The steep streets were eerily quiet and not a soul was to be seen on the way up.

On reaching Plaza Mayor we realised why the streets had been so quiet. The pretty pink church, Church of Santa Maria de la Mesa was hidden behind a marquee set up to cover the square and pretty stone fountain. Calle Ronda was barricaded for a bull run. The town’s inhabitants were either lining the outside of barriers or inside for the release of the bull.

Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra
Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra

While everyone was preoccupied preparing for the bull run we took advantage of the stunning views of the picturesque Sierra de Monte surrounding the aqua-blue lake, Playa de Zahara de la Sahara below. The lake is a popular water sports destination as the mountains are for hiking.

Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain
Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain

A little time was spent at the barricades absorbing the atmosphere before we realised that this was not something we would enjoy. We made our way downhill for lunch before crowds arrived after the spectacle. An ambulance siren accompanies our journey down.

Olvera

We now know where all the Spanish olive oil comes from! Driving to Olvera you’ll see olive groves everywhere. Fires over the past summers have destroyed some hillside groves. In some areas, new trees have been planted and some of the surviving old trees are starting to resprout. We are once again treated to spectacular views driving towards the township. Another castle perched above us on the hill. Just below it, a church.

Roadside views of the church and castle atop the hill in Olvera, Spain
Roadside views of the church and castle atop the hill in Olvera, Spain

Olvera is a ghost town as we walk uphill. Apart from the restaurants, everything else is closed for the siesta. Walking uphill is beginning to become a habit but we can enjoy the scenic main street without crowds.

The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain
The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain

Arriving in the church square, apart from a couple of people sitting under the shade of a tree, we have it to ourselves. A Polish family joined us a short while later. Like us, they are amazed that there is no one else around.

The square is the best place to see the castle while the lookouts around the church provide sweeping views over the township below and the surrounding countryside. It was time well spent stopping and walking up the hot afternoon sun.

Ronda – the most stunning of the white villages

Onwards to incredible Ronda. We decided to base ourselves in the most popular white villages for several nights to find out why it’s classified as one of the most beautiful.

Are you interested to learn what we found? Click on the link and take a look at our review on why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

Discover the Loire Valley

Discover the beautiful chateaus and little villages of the Loire Valley

09/08/2022 / / 0 Comments

On this trip, we decided to stay in a smaller town to continue to discover the Loire Valley. We stayed in the larger city of Tours on a previous visit because it is central and provided easy access to both the southwest and south-eastern parts of the valley. Our stay in Chinon exceeded our expectations ensuring we were in the heart of the Valley.

Discover the Loire Valley

We’ve put together some of our highlights below without giving too much away (we want you to discover the history and beauty for yourselves). However, if you’d like more information or clarification on any of the below or our experiences, please feel free to contact us or ask us in the comments section below.

Chinon

We stayed in Chinon for an authentic Loire  Valley experience and found it has all that and more. The city is small enough to be easily walked and large enough to provide plenty of accommodation and dining options when you’ve had a long day visiting the attractions in the surrounding countryside. Remember to save a day to explore Chinon’s cobblestone alleyways and streets too. The town has much to offer.

And, be sure to check with the Tourist Office in the centre of town for any local events that may be happening while you’re in town. We were lucky to be there and attend an outdoor jazz night which was being held on the banks of the river one evening. 

Chateau de Chinon

The Chateau de Chinon (the Fortress) sits high above the town. It looks down on you wherever you are in the town. It’s easily accessible by a lift in the town’s main parking area or, if you prefer the experience of taking the old route, there’s a medieval cobbled pathway and steps in the centre of town. The original castle dates back to the 10th century but it was extended and became a fortress in 1154 when Henry II took residence. For the French, the fortress played an important part in the country’s history, the fortress is where Joan of Arc met with King Charles VII and persuaded him the give her an army to liberate Orleans in the Hundred Years’ War. Today the most prominent part of the fortress is the clock tower and the fortress walls. 

Church of Saint Etienne

Constructed between 1460 and 1490, we loved its Gothic facade. Pop you inside and have a look at the stained glass windows which tell stories of the city’s history.

Stroll on Rue Rabelais and Rue Voltaire

Take a stroll along this pedestrian-only street and look up at the medieval houses that line the street. It’s also where you’ll find the best shopping, restaurants, bars and cafes. There are more medieval homes along Rue Voltairen including the Red House that are worth looking at.

Chapelle de Radegonde

Tucked away on the hillside above Chinon Old Town is Chappelle de Radegonde It’s a pleasant walking trail which you can enter quite close to the Fortress, with panoramic views over Chinon and beyond, small vineyards and cave dwellings along the way. The 12th-century chapel lay in ruin for many years before being gradually restored. Unfortunately for us, the chapel wasn’t open when we passed by in the early morning. However, we found quite a few cave dwellings along the trail which are slowly being restored too.

Church of Sait Marurice and Haute Saint Maurice Place

We were fortunate to stay in an apartment next door to this Church. Low key with a pretty courtyard in front, the Church is renowned for its beautiful organ. One of the parishioners who welcomed visitors at the front door mentioned that the organ was undergoing maintenance. Whichever way, we were treated to melodic organ music every evening during our stay.

M Plouzeau Wine Caves

Set into the rock at the base of the Fortress are the M Plouzeau Caves. The caves were created as a result of the stone quarried to build the fortress. Today, the cool natural climate of the caves houses the wines of Chinon’s well-known wineries. It’s open for tastings and a nice spend a couple of hours on a hot summer day.

Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau

A short drive from Chinon you’ll find the sandstone villages of Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau. Both towns are situated along the Loire River and blend into each other so it’s hard to avoid visiting one and not the other. 

Candes Saint Martin has a medieval path which you can follow leading to an open space surrounded by vineyards which provide panoramic views over the immediate countryside. 

Montsoreau’s highlight is its chateau, Chateau de la Dame de Montsoreau. Take a moment to enjoy the street filled with sandstone homes and the Town Hall in the adjoining street.

Both towns are listed among the prettiest villages in the area. We found them to be unremarkable. We researched before we visited.  Maybe we missed something.

Fontevraud Abbaye

The village of Fontevrand l’Abbaye, a little further from Montsoreau was bustling with visitors when we arrived. Most were visiting the 10th-century Abbey and monastery. The village has some pretty little side streets and alleys and a lovely courtyard in front of the Abbaye entrance.

Saumur

We stopped in Saumur on our drive to Chinon from Brittany. You can drive there quite easily from Chinon on the main toll road but we recommend you take the scenic route on the country roads along the Loire and Vence Rivers enjoying the scenery as you go.

The main reason for our stop was to see the Chateau de Saumur. Perched high on the hill overlooking the city, it’s hard not to miss. The chateau started out as a fortress in the 900s and was converted to a chateau in the 1400s. You can visit inside. The panoramic views from the grounds of the Chateau are more than worth the visit. 

Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau 

A stunning turreted chateau situated in the heart of the town and surrounded by lush greenery on park-like grounds. The castle’s point of difference is climbing the stairway in the middle of the castle with views down to the grand entrance and bridge which you have crossed. Amble through the quarters to see how life was lived in Chateau’s heyday.

Stroll the grounds and around the ponds after you visit inside and make sure you walk through the town afterwards. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to have a bite to eat and drink. 

Chateau de Langeais

Chateau de Langeais looms grandly over the small township when you arrive in the city of Langeais. It’s very much part of the township.. If you’re arriving in the summer months as we did, you will be greeted with aby a dainty flower-filled street leading to the castle complete with a drawbridge.

You will be able to visit the Castle and its gardens at leisure as it’s not high on the tourist trail. All the more reason to stop by, even if it’s for a peek from the outside.

Chateau d’’Usse

We were driving along a quiet country road along the edge of the forest on one side and the Loire River on the other and suddenly the chateau known locally as the Sleeping Beauty castle appeared. Perched above the roadside complete with a grand entrance over an arched bridge, towers and manicured gardens it’s a regal chateau from all aspects.

Chateau Villandry

One of the jewels of the Loire Valley and our favourite in this part of the Valley. One of the region’s more formal chateaus it emanates an air of opulence. The visit inside provides a glimpse of how the other half lived and a walk through the gardens is delightful, from the carefully manicured hedges to the symmetrical vegetable gardens and terraced areas.

Chateau Villandry

Chateau  d’Amboise

We took the drive from Chinon to  Amboise on the Chateau Trail. It’s the furthest away from Chinon. Amboise is popular on the trail with visitors opting to stay and come from near and far. It was the busiest of the chateau we visited. When we arrived the whole of the historic town surrounding the Chateau was buzzing.

There is no doubt you will see it from the road as you drive into the city. It holds a commanding and strategic position set high on the hill within the historic centre. It’s worth walking along the riverside to take in the view of the Chateau from the riverside before going closer. 

Where we stayed

We stayed in an apartment, Nature and Chateaux in the centre of the historic centre in Chinon. Well appointed and decorated in period furniture, The apartment was well located in the heart of the old town and within walking distance of all the sights and eateries. Our apartment had views up to the fortress and along the streets of the Old Town.

Hint: Don’t be tempted to take the cheaper option and stay on the other side of the river. The best part of staying in the Old Town is being part of the local scene at the end of the day and early morning when there are few or no other tourists around.

Dining options in Chinon

We enjoyed meals at several restaurants in the heart of Chinon:

  1. Jean of France Restaurant in the main square, Place de General de Gaulle.
  2. La Table de Jeanne on Re Voltaire and a stone’s throw from our apartment, Nature & Chateaux.
  3. Les Saveurs d’Italie, in Place de General de Gaulle

And, if you’re looking for a quality croissant or pastry, drop into the patisserie in Place Mirabeau. Be prepared to join the queue.

Our thoughts and recommendations

We loved our stay in Tours on a previous visit. Choosing to stay in Chinon provided us with the opportunity to see and do more while experiencing staying in a small medieval town. All villages and chateaus were easily accessible without travelling long distances and allowed us to linger where we wanted.

It’s easy to try and fit in visits inside lots of castles. We recommend choosing one or two to truly appreciate them. We compare visiting too many castles to visiting too many museums. After a while, you forget what was so special about each one. Save one or two to look forward to on your next visit.

For those who love cycling, the Loire Valley is very conducive to cycling with scenic cycling trails between villages, towns and chateaus. Villages, towns, chateaus and accommodation around the Valley provide cyclist-friendly facilities.

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Sticky post Galleria Borghese, Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome
The inviting entrance to the Galleria Borghese museum

Why you will love this free attraction in Rome

26/08/2020 / / 7 Comments

A short distance from Piazza di Spagna and Rome’s bustling tourist district lies a sanctuary that few except locals know of. We think it’s worth taking the time to pay a visit to this free attraction in Rome.

Villa Borghese is a sprawling park on Pincio Hill. Covering over 80 hectares, there are a number of ways to enter the gardens. Our favourite is from the Spanish Steps, by turning left at the top in front of the Trinita dei Monti and walking up the gentle sloping pathway to the entrance.

Villa Borghese was established in the early 1600s when Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew to Pope Paul V decided to turn his city vineyard into Rome’s most extensively landscaped garden. Over years a number of attractions were added turning the Gardens into a small parcel of paradise in the middle of the city. The State acquired the Gardens from the Borghese family in the early 1900s and opened them for the public to enjoy.

We have visited the park over a number of visits and have still to complete our exploration. Some highlights we’ve discovered:

Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument

A non-descript monument to take note of as you enter via the sloping pathway from the top of the Spanish Steps. Look down over or walk down to the monument for a closer look.

The monument honours a small contingent of compatriots who fought in a campaign to liberate Rome from the rule of Pope Pius IX. Enrico led the small contingent suffering in the attack and the monument depicts Giovanni, his younger brother supporting his dying brother up the Spanish Steps. The names of the other volunteer fighters can be found on the monument.

Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument, Rome
Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument

Pincio Terrace

Walk further ahead once you enter the park and you’ll find one of the best photo spots in Rome. The terrace provides a commanding view of the domes and rooftops that make up Rome’s skyline and it’s the perfect place to do a little landmark spotting. It also gives you a birdseye view over Piazza del Popolo.

Domes of Rome
You can never have enough of looking out to the domes and rooftops of Rome
Piazza del Popolo
Watch the comings and goings over Piazza del Popolo from the Pincio Terrace.

Temple of Aesculapius

The Temple of Aesculapius sits on a small island in the middle of an artificial lake not far from Pincio Terrace.

A serene spot in the park, the temple dedicated to the God of Medicine and built in 1785 is said to replicate an ancient temple originally situated on the River Tiber.

You can hire a row boat to lazily while away an afternoon on the lake.

The idyllic Temple of Aesculapius on the lake

The Water Clock

Looking for something quirky? Find the water clock (hydrochronometer) in the gardens not far from the Pincio. It was built for display at the Universal Exposition held in Paris in 1867 and brought back to be placed in a fountain in the Gardens in 1873. It still works.

Water clock in the Villa Borghese Gardens
The Water Clock hidden in the Villa Borghese Gardens

Galleria Borghese

Our favourite attraction in the park, Galleria Borghese was originally called Casa Nobile.

The Villa Borghese houses a number of museums within its grounds. The Galleria Borghese is the highlight and one of the world’s leading museums. While not large, it houses some of the finest artworks and sculptures from the 1500s to 1800s. Works by Bernini, Raphael and Carravaggio are housed in an intimate setting.

Tickets for a timeslot are required. A guarantee that you won’t be vying with other art enthusiasts to view the masterpieces. Book your tickets well in advance to avoid missing out on your preferred date and time. We can guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Galleria Borghese, Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome
The inviting entrance to the Galleria Borghese museum
Galleria Borghese, Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome

Other ways to enjoy the Gardens

Take a walk in the park

The shaded walking paths lined with busts, fountains, manicured gardens (some reflecting an old English style), and rotundas weren’t opened to the public until the early 1900s. Today, you can stroll through the park exploring all its nooks and crannies to find the secret gardens spotted throughout the park.

Visit the zoo

The Villa Borghese Gardens is also home to the Bioparco di Roma Zoo which is a wonderful way to break away from the historical sites and entertain children if you are travelling as a family. When you’re finished visiting the Bioparco, drop by to watch the puppetry show at the Teatro Dei Burattani San Carlino. With puppet theatre not so common these days, it will give the children a special experience to treasure.

Stop by the equestrian arena

If you like watching equestrian events, and you’re visiting Rome in May, stop by the Piazza di Siena to watch the International Horse Show, one of the most well-known horseriding events in Italy. The event is free and open to the public.

Go to the theatre or watch a movie

If you are not excited by horse events and prefer something with a hint of culture then take in a Shakespearian play at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre. Emulating the famous Globe Theatre in London, it’s the only Elizabethan theatre in Italy.

Otherwise buy a ticket to one of the summer outdoor screenings of the Casa Del Cinema, an arthouse movie theatre.

Browse through another gallery, or two

The Borghese Gallery is just one of several galleries in the gardens. We are looking forward to visiting the 16th-century mansion, Villa Medici which houses the French Academy on our next visit to have a look inside its beautiful interior.

You can also visit the Museo Pietro Canonica which is dedicated to the work of artist Pietro Canonica or the Museo Carloi Bilotti which displays the large art collection of billionaire Carlo Bilotti

Cycle around the Gardens

If you’re not keen on walking around the gardens or are pressed for time, then an easy way to explore the sprawling gardens is to rent a bicycle. The park has a number of cycle rental vendors spotted around the park. A more novel way to see the sights around the gardens is to hire a quadricycle. The four-seater electric quadricycles are fun and a family-friendly way to enjoy an afternoon.

A picnic in the Borghese

After all the rushing from one monument to another, a great way to have a bit of downtime is to gather some goodies from the markets in the morning, pack a picnic lunch and find a shady spot in the Gardens to while away an hour or two.

Time out to exercise

Like to exercise? The park’s wide trails are the perfect place to take a run, jog or power walk. Or, roll out your yoga mat in one of the many secluded spots for the perfect start to your day in the Eternal City.

Jogging in the Borghese Gardens
What better way to start the day in Rome than a jog along the trails in the Borghese Gardens

People watch

The perfect way to complete your visit to the Villa Borghese is to take a seat on the park bench (you might find one close to a street musician) and enjoy a little people-watching. The Park is a sanctuary for Romans to escape the chaos of their city. If you visit on a Sunday afternoon you’ll find family groups enjoying the many recreational activities or young and elderly couples taking a romantic passeggiata around the park.

The Villa Borghese is the perfect sanctuary in the heart of Rome

Our conclusion

These are just a few of the many activities offered in Villa Borghese. We have yet to explore more of the Gardens. We’ll definitely be spending time there on our next visit to Rome. We have been entranced by this haven in the city. It will take just one visit for you to love it too.

P.S.
We’ll have more to say about the Galleria Borghese, our favourite art museum, in a dedicated post coming soon. Make sure you sign up to receive an email notification when we tell you about our favourite gallery in more detail. You’ll be as mesmerised as we were!

P.P.S.
And, if you found this suggestion useful for your next visit to Rome, then you may like these posts:

Ambleside township
Leave enough time to wander around Ambleside

The best hiking trail in the Lake District

27/06/2020 / / 4 Comments

We had been talking about visiting the Lake District for some time. The perfect opportunity arose when we visited one of our tribe who was living in Oxford for a time. He had stopped off there on the way to Scotland in the middle of winter and was keen to join us to see its beauty in the height of summer. And, take us on one of the best hikes in the Lake District.

We made the drive from Oxford in a day, stopping for lunch and a walk around the city of Chester. Known for its Roman walls and tudor-style half-timber buildings of Chester Rows, the city was a convenient mid-point on our drive north with plenty to see.

Our decision to stay in the small town of Kendal on the outskirts of the Lake District was two-fold; we wanted to spend time around the Lakes and also the Yorkshire Dales. The Castle Green Hotel was the perfect accommodation decision. It provided a cosy sanctuary after our long days of exploring.

On the recommendation of hotel staff, our first hike took us from the township of Ambleside to Grasmere. Sitting at the head of Lake Windermere, the township of Ambleside is a short 20-minute drive from Kendal and worthy of spending some time wandering around its watermills, the Bridge House and pretty township.

Leave enough time to wander around Ambleside

A small path behind St Mary’s Church led us over a quaint bridge and up a gently sloping trail surrounded by farmland to a lookout over the expansive Lake Windermere. The trail then carried on downhill through luscious green pastures, around small lakes and along pebbled paths intermittently lines with old stone houses which seemed to have been part of the landscape for hundreds of years. We were even treated to several flyovers by British fighter jets as we arrived closer to Grasmere.

A glimpse of Ambleside township from the walking trail
Lake Windemere

The village of Grasmere is known for hosting many poets, craftsmen and artists in its time. Samuel Taylor Coleridge, Sir Walter Scott, Robert Southey and William Wordsworth amongst others found inspiration in Grasmere’s beautiful surroundings. Wordsworth lived there for 15 years. You’ll find Wordworth’s family plot at St Oswald’s Church in the centre of Grasmere.

The beautiful surroundings are not the only reason visitors come to Grasmere. Chocolate from the handmade chocolate shop and the legendary gingerbread found at shops in the village are special treats to look forward to at the end of the walk.

We came upon some handsome stone dwellings along the picturesque paths

We enjoyed an indoor lunch at a cute coffee shop followed by an ice cream cone from the booth directly outside. And, after an amble through the village, prepared ourselves for the return journey on an alternative route back to Ambleside where our car was parked.

The Lake District is known for its rainy disposition. Our walk from Ambleside to Grasmere had been accompanied by cloudy skies and we were not surprised to have the heavens open up on us as we walked to the starting point of our return trail.

With no sign of the rain easing, we decided to take the bus back to Ambleside.

Like our walk up the Old Man of Coniston returning to complete the Grasmere to Ambleside trail and enjoying some of the other trails is high on our list.

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