Category: Spain (Page 2 of 3)

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

06/01/2023 / Smita / 2 Comments

Planning on visiting Malaga or Seville? Read on to find out why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

Southern Spain is speckled with pueblo blancos (white towns). Each has its own character and it’s hard not to get caught up visiting all of them. If you’re short on time, Ronda is the one town to visit.

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

We chose Ronda as our base for several days because of its point of difference from the other white villages.

Steeped in history, the city sits on two sides of a deep gorge connected by a fantastic bridge—the bridge, Puento Nuevo (new bridge) was built in 1793.

Our apartment was located in Plaza Espana next to Puento Nuevo, with an added “wow” factor. Our expansive patio looked out over the magnificent Sierra de las Nieves! The Tourist Office around the corner from our apartment armed us with a map and options on how to spend our time in the town.

Views to the Sierra de las Nieves from Ronda — Views of the Sierra de las Nieves from our apartment patio

We were fortunate to arrive on a Saturday when a free flamenco concert was being held in Ronda’s Old Town.

A summer evening in Ronda

The views from both sides of the bridge are dramatic, and it is the first place to stop to soak in the scenery before you explore the old town.

In the Old Town, we followed the sound of music down some cobblestone alleys to appear at an open-air area where the rehearsal was in progress. Moving on, we stopped in a pretty square to visit the cathedral, Santa Maria de la Mayor. An added pleasure was watching a wedding party emerge.

The plaza offers several restaurants if you’d like to eat in the quiet precinct. We opted for the low-key garden restaurant to try a few of the local dishes on offer. The food portions are large and delicious.

Back at the concert venue, we found the seats were filling up fast. Instead of sitting down with the audience, we decided to sit on the ledge above to watch people and observe. By 10:00 pm, the arena was full. Concertgoers came dressed for the occasion and the atmosphere was jovial as the concert commenced.

We left after an hour, wishing we understood the language better so we could have enjoyed the music, singing and dancing as much as the locals did.

The Cathedral was spectacularly lit up as we passed by on the way back to our apartment. At 11:30 pm. townsfolk were still out and about in droves, and the town was buzzing. Just one of the benefits of visiting in the summer months.

Things to do in incredible Ronda

Enjoy the dramatic views from Mirador Aldehuela

Mirador Aldehuela is on the Old Town side of Puento Nuevo and directly opposite Plaza Espana. We recommend that it’s one of the first things you do. The dramatic views down to the Guadelevin River flowing at the bottom of the gorge surrounded by the cliff formations are jaw-dropping.

Views of the gorge, Ronda, Spain — Views of the gorge from Mirador Aldehuela

Take in the evening views of Puento Nuevo

For another perspective of Puento Nuevo, stroll along Mirador de Aves via the pathway from Plaza Espana in the evening.

It’s a great place to linger as the sun goes down. As darkness falls and the lights around the gorge turn on, highlighting the bridge. The bridge looked spectacular, and the gorge seemed rather eery.

Take a hike in the El Tajo Gorge

Morning dawned with hot air balloons hovering over our balcony. They skimmed across the sky to hover above the gorge and valley. The views must be unique from above.

The Tourist Office recommended hiking the Molinos del Tajo route, which leads down from the Old Town into the El Tajo Gorge. This would be the best way to experience the town’s distinctive qualities. We took their recommendation and were not disappointed.

Views of Ronda's Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge — Views of Ronda’s Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge

The main path takes you to the waterfall just below the bridge with some viewpoints providing breathtaking views of the bridge. You can then walk some of the quieter paths leading further downhill to capture bridge views from different angles before circumnavigating to the other side of town towards the old Roman bridge and visiting the Arab Baths. We returned to the township via Jardines de Cuenca, and the spectacular viewpoints spread at intervals across the gardens before emerging in Plaza Espana from the other end of the Puento Nuevo.

The early morning is the perfect time to do the two-hour walk, especially if you are visiting in summer. The temperature is cool, and, at this time of the day, there are not many people on the trails. It provides a wonderful opportunity to savour the views from the lookouts and take unobstructed photos.

Step inside the Arab Baths and walk over the Roman Bridge

If you follow the walking route around to the eastern side of the town, you’ll end up at the Arab Baths.

Relatively intact, the baths provide a peek into the Moorish heritage of the town. This part of town was originally the main entrance into Ronda, and the baths sat just outside the city walls and next to the Mosque. Locals and visitors would stop to cleanse their bodies at the baths before going to the Mosque

A little further around the corner, you’ll find more another remnant of old Ronda with the Roman Bridge at the original entrance to Ronda.

The Roman Bridge, Ronda, Spain — A couple look over the Arab bath site from the old Roman Bridge

Visit the Plaza de Toros

One of the oldest in Spain, Ronda’s bullring stands as a centrepiece as you enter the Old Town. Two statues honouring two sons of the town stand at the entrance. Statues honouring two of the town’s famous matadors, a father (Antonio Ordonez) and son (Cayetano Ordonez) stand proudly at the entrance. With bullfighting falling out of favour in recent times, the bullring serves mainly as a museum these days. Bullfighting is, however, embedded in the culture of the town and once a year in September, the Plaza de Toros truly comes to life when the Feria de Pedro Romero is held along with several others in southern Spain.

The bullring, Plaza de Toros, Ronda, Spain — Ronda’s bullring, Plaza de Toros

Mirador de Ronda – scenic lookout of the gorge and mountains

A few minutes’ stroll from Plaza Espana, and through the flower gardens is another lookout to the amazing mountain ranges and the gorge. For spectacular sunset views, take a seat on the steps of the rotunda from where you can watch one of the world’s best sunsets.

Visit Setenil de las Bodegas

The small white village of Setenil de las Bodegas is a twenty-minute drive from Ronda and worth a visit whether you are staying in Ronda or just hopping from one white town to another on your way through southern Spain.

Why? Setenil is not just another white village and is unique in its own right for the town’s hilltop castle, which was once an Arab fortress. Even more, it is famous because of the village houses built into the rock and cliffside.

The village is very popular for its culinary fare. The original houses built into the cliff are now mostly tavernas or restaurants serving the chorizo sausages that the village is famous for. We arrived in the village for a late afternoon visit to find the village still brimming with tourists.

Once you’ve had a wander around the area below, follow the steps up to a small lookout to take a seat and survey the pueblo from above. You’ll find it a great vantage point to view the castle/fortress.

Setenil de las Bodegas lookout, Ronda, Spain — Views of the castle and township from the lookout

Shopping on Carrera Espinel

Carerra Espinel is a one-kilometre pedestrian street with shopping for all budgets. However, Carrera Espinel is worth a walk down for its festive spirit. Part of the way along veer into the pretty Plaza del Socorro, where you’ll find a few dining options and the Inglesia del Sirocco. It’s a pretty square in an incredible town!

Our conclusion

Steeped in history and jaw-dropping scenery, Ronda was true to all that we had read about the town and the amazing photography we had seen when researching places to visit in southern Spain. Ronda did not disappoint!

You simply should not leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda!

One more thing

Looking for more pueblo blancos to visit. Click on the link below to read more.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

22/10/2022 / Smita / 3 Comments

When researching where to visit in southern Spain, places like Seville, Malaga and Granada frequently arose. We have found another area to include on your itinerary. See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

The white villages (pueblos blancos) are easily visited from Seville, Cadiz or Malaga on a day visit. The best way to appreciate them and their atmosphere (each varies) is to stay in one. We based ourselves in Ronda and stopped at a few villages on the way there. Here are some that stood out for us.

Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez de la Frontera is the largest of the white villages/towns and is famous for two things:

the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art and breeding and training horses; and
producing some of the best sherry in the world.

Vineyards accompanied us on the road and on reaching the Jerez, we found it brimming with bodegas (cellars). Producers here make sherry from a particular grape variety (Palamino) which grows in the chalky soil of this part of Spain. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you are looking for tasting cellars. Look out for the area’s most famous brand, Tio Pepe which stands prominently on the hillside as you drive into the town.

We weren’t in Jerez to taste the sherry or check out the equestrian centre. We wanted to visit the old town. Vehicular access is prohibited so we parked outside the zone, an extra dimension to our visit. Derelict houses lined the alleys and streets as we walked towards what we hoped was the central plaza. What the city may have to offer a visitor was questionable!

Ten minutes of winding through the alleys brought us to a quiet main road which we followed a short way uphill. Suddenly out of nowhere, Plaza de la Asuncion appeared. A small but charming old square with a significant history. A 15th-century Gothic Mudejar-style church, the Church of San Dionisio is on one side, the former town hall dating back to the 16th century, on another. In the middle, you’ll find the Monumento a la Asuncion.

A short walk along the lane took us to one of the most important squares in Jerez de la Frontera, Plaza del Arenal. It’s the heart of the old town and was once the scene of fights and duels in the 16th century. These days, it’s a beautiful open space hosting statues of renowned identities surrounded by beautiful old buildings. The colourful carousel in the corner adds to its charm and vibrancy.

We came across the striking Jerez Cathedral. It’s a beautiful building dating back to the 17th century combining Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Classical styles towering over the street as we returned to the car.

Jerez Cathedral, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain — Jerez Cathedral

Arcos de la Frontera

Arcos de la Frontera is one of the lesser-visited white towns. Set on a hilltop, we detoured slightly north from Cadiz to Ronda to explore this hilltop town.

Parking in Plaza del Cabildo is limited and narrow alleyways to navigate on the hill. We decided to find a car park in the town area below (Hint: bring good walking shoes to make your way uphill on the cobbled pathway). The views of the white town as we walked towards more than made up for taking the steep incline on a hot summer morning.

Plaza del Cabildo

The main street, Calle Cuesta Belen took us to our first stop, Plaza del Cabildo. Beautiful buildings surround this main square on three sides (Basilica de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, Castillo Ducal, the town hall and the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera, a hotel). The Mirador del Cono is the highlight of the Plaza. It serves as a cliffside balcony to look out over the Rio Guadalete.

Explore the narrow alleyways

One of the highlights of our visit to Arcos de la Frontera was getting lost in the little alleys around the town. The best place to start is to go back to the Cuesta Belen entrance of the Plaza and enter through the archway on the left just before the Parador. You’ll find yourself in the maze of alleyways lined with whitewashed houses.

The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Things to look out for:

Inglesia de San Pedro – the church and its Baroque bell tower are just as impressive as the Basilica in Plaza del Cabildo.

Palacio del Mayorazgo – when you’ve finished gazing at the Iglesia de San Pedro, turn around. This narrow building dates back to the 17th century. It is now home to a cultural centre. Pop in to admire the building’s interior and the exhibitions.

Find and stroll along Calle Cuna and Calle Maldonaldo. Both are lined with Palacios and worthy of finding your way to.

Another street to find is Calle Nueva lined. It’s lined with colourful pots against the whitewashed buildings.

Visit the Convento de la Mercerdarias. The convent was closed during our visit, however, all the information we read before our visit recommended a visit. The convent dates back to 1642 and is a classic example of a cloistered convent.

Follow the path from Calle Nueva onwards to Mirador Abades. If you thought the views from the mirador in Plaza Cabildo were spectacular, we classified Mirador Abades as the perfect finale for our visit. Go ahead and take a look for yourselves.

Expansive views from the Mirador Abades, Arcos de la Frontera — Expansive views from the Mirador Abades

Don’t forget to pop your head into the novelty stores and tapas bars.

Zahara de la Sierra

Zahara de la Sierra is an hour’s drive from Arcos de la Frontera. We passed a few more Pueblo Blancos on the way. Zahara de la Sierra’s Moorish castle is perched high up on the hill coming into view from afar

Again, we found it best to use the car park at the bottom of the hill. It was also the best way to savour the beauty of the laneways and Moorish houses on the way to Plaza Mayor, the village’s main square. The steep streets were eerily quiet and not a soul was to be seen on the way up.

On reaching Plaza Mayor we realised why the streets had been so quiet. The pretty pink church, Church of Santa Maria de la Mesa was hidden behind a marquee set up to cover the square and pretty stone fountain. Calle Ronda was barricaded for a bull run. The town’s inhabitants were either lining the outside of barriers or inside for the release of the bull.

Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra

While everyone was preoccupied preparing for the bull run we took advantage of the stunning views of the picturesque Sierra de Monte surrounding the aqua-blue lake, Playa de Zahara de la Sahara below. The lake is a popular water sports destination as the mountains are for hiking.

Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain

A little time was spent at the barricades absorbing the atmosphere before we realised that this was not something we would enjoy. We made our way downhill for lunch before crowds arrived after the spectacle. An ambulance siren accompanies our journey down.

Olvera

We now know where all the Spanish olive oil comes from! Driving to Olvera you’ll see olive groves everywhere. Fires over the past summers have destroyed some hillside groves. In some areas, new trees have been planted and some of the surviving old trees are starting to resprout. We are once again treated to spectacular views driving towards the township. Another castle perched above us on the hill. Just below it, a church.

Olvera is a ghost town as we walk uphill. Apart from the restaurants, everything else is closed for the siesta. Walking uphill is beginning to become a habit but we can enjoy the scenic main street without crowds.

The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain

Arriving in the church square, apart from a couple of people sitting under the shade of a tree, we have it to ourselves. A Polish family joined us a short while later. Like us, they are amazed that there is no one else around.

The square is the best place to see the castle while the lookouts around the church provide sweeping views over the township below and the surrounding countryside. It was time well spent stopping and walking up the hot afternoon sun.

Ronda – the most stunning of the white villages

Onwards to incredible Ronda. We decided to base ourselves in the most popular white villages for several nights to find out why it’s classified as one of the most beautiful.

Are you interested to learn what we found? Click on the link and take a look at our review on why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

You will love doing this one thing in Barcelona!

16/06/2019 / Smita / 6 Comments

As they do in most European countries, the day started slowly. This is typical in summer when cities are buzzing with dining, theatre and music until the early hours.

We step out of our apartment just a few metres away to find Las Ramblas starting to come alive. The leafy promenade runs from Placa de Catalunya, the point where the old town and new town collide down to the Christopher Columbus monument at the port. The beautiful plane trees conveniently shelter tourists from the strong summer sun. We hear many different languages being spoken around us, but not English!

We are intent on starting our Sunday exploring the back lanes and plazas of the Gothic Quarter before making our way Montjuic Hill for the afternoon. It’s a Sunday and expecting to see the quiet weekend life of the Catalunyian capital, we stroll down an alleyway off Las Ramblas stepping right into the middle of a melee. We see hundreds of people, some clambering on top of each other and while many crowded in groups and others around the perimeter of the square.

We are in Plaza Sant Jaume, the home of City Hall. During the week the plaza is buzzing with town officials going about the business of running this busy seaport city. Weekends, it seems, is for the residents of this vibrant Catalonian capital.

Often the scene for protests, today, residents are using the Plaza for another Catalunyian tradition – building castells or “castles”.

So what is this obsession with building castles?

Unique to the region of Catalunya, forming human castles began in the 18^th century when they were built as part of religious festivities. At the end of the celebrations, people formed towers of three or four layers putting on a show to outdo the dancers.

Since the 1980’s, building human towers has become a sport and have grown so much in popularity that there are now competitions to build 9 or 10 tiers of people. The grand finale is a young child clambering up and over team members to raise his arm and four fingers, symbolising the four stripes in the Catalan flag at the top of the tower.

There are at least four teams competing today. Each team dressed in white with black sashes and colourful bandanas representing their allegiance and comradeship. We stand back to observe.

Some of these towers look fragile and precarious, looking as if they will collapse at any moment. However, none of the towers collapse. It is an example of extreme precision, teamwork and commitment with an element of trust involved. Everyone contributes to the team’s success, from the heaviest to the lightest of participants. The base “pinya” consists of the strongest team members, they must be strong and powerful to form the firm base for the more agile and lighter team member who form tiers supporting others on their shoulders until the lightest climbs to the top. It is the team that forms the tower the quickest that wins.

The atmosphere in the plaza is one of intense concentration coupled with fun and laughter further intensified when the Mayor and his contingent appear on the balcony to watch the proceedings.

Barcelona offers much to the visitor: a colourful history; interesting and amazing architecture; museums and theatres; golden beaches; and a wonderful dining culture. If you want to experience the real Barcelona, do not miss a chance to watch the art of building castells next time you visit.

Looking for something else to do in Barcelona? Read about our day in Palau Guell and why we recommend spending some time there.

Santiago de Compostela – the end of “The Way”

11/04/2018 / Smita / 0 Comments

Thick grey clouds hovered over the mountains as we crossed the border from Portugal into Spain. Then the drizzle set in! It was pretty miserable by the time we reached the city of Santiago de Compostela in Spain’s northwestern corner.

It’s only a one night stop for us so we are keen to see as much as we can of this city. We have been drawn here by reading a fellow traveller’s article on visiting this pilgrimage site.

Unlike the more popular cities in Spain, Santiago de Compostela is relatively devoid traditional holidaymakers and tourists. No huge crowds here. Instead, it is the final destination for pilgrims as they complete the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James), a Catholic pilgrimage route dating back to the 9^th century leading to what is believed to be the tomb of St James, the apostle.

We have booked to stay in a little boutique hotel in the Old Town, the best place to capture the mood of pilgrims as they enter the Cathedral of St James precinct. The drizzle has stopped so we don’t waste time. We set off to follow the “scallop shells”, the iconic symbol of the Camino de Santiago which lead us through the town to the Cathedral which dominates the town in the grey weather.

The atmosphere, however, is anything but gloomy as we get closer. We admire the beautiful squares that surround the Cathedral looking up to see visitors exploring the rooftop and spires, and pause to watch processions of pilgrims who have walked the Camino follow the cobbled pathway to the main square.

We are moved by the emotions of joy and elation on faces of the tired and bedraggled pilgrims as they are bagpiped by a trio of buskers through the final tunnel. Many have walked the Camino in search of their own spiritual enlightenment. I still get goosebumps and tingles down my spine whenever I recall the scene.

We cast our minds back to the two brave women in their 60’s we met in Porto a few days earlier who were making their way here following the Camino Portegese. This is what they have to look forward to.

The weather conditions make the Cathedral look foreboding but a visit inside proves otherwise. We follow visitors and pilgrims alike to the underground tomb of St James, then to the high altar where the figure of St James sits welcoming pilgrims to touch his cape as a blessing. We quietly explore the naves and altars of this magnificent building while a Mass is underway for pilgrims. Many have completed the full Camino, walking nearly 800km from France following trails marked with the tell-tale scallop shells and yellow arrows through the French and Spanish countryside with overnight stays in modest accommodations of lodges and monasteries.

We have stood in front of, and admired many cathedrals during our travels. Standing in front of this Cathedral, as spectators to pilgrims completing their individual Caminos, we feel we have missed out on something special.

There are a number of Camino routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. For those wishing to complete a shorter walk or who are time poor, shorter routes provide an alternative to the full Camino. All lead to the Cathedral of St James. The Camino is now very popular with those who are looking for the more active holiday. The trails are now full of both genuine pilgrims and tourists. We might be a little late for the more genuine experience, where the trails are less crowded but plans are in the making to join the over 200,000 people who now complete the Camino each year. Watch this space or join us!

Footnote: There is more to Santiago de Compostela than being just a pilgrimage site. A UNESCO World Heritage and university town the city has its own rich culture in entertainment and art. Wandering the streets of this medieval city is a history lesson in itself. And, the city is a gateway to the Galacia region which has its own language and culture. A truly unique Spanish experience for the traveller who wishes to see more of Spain.

Hable Ingles? (Do you speak English?)

11/02/2018 / Smita / 0 Comments

We climbed into the taxi at the airport somewhat bewildered after disembarking our flight. We had been whisked in a series of trains from the aircraft to the main terminal to clear Customs and collect our baggage.

With fuzzy brains, we were unanimous that it would be easier to catch a taxi to the hotel, where we would stay overnight before bidding our sons farewell as they joined a Contiki tour. We will take a more authentic driving tour around the country.

Our taxi driver seemed an amiable man who responded to our son’s “Hable Inglés?” with a tirade of Spanish that none of us could understand! The boys looked at each other, then us and shrugged. Our hopes of getting off to a start in Spain were pinned on the two years of Spanish lessons our sons had taken at high school nine years ago!

It was Sunday morning, with little traffic on the roads and we looked enthusiastically out of the windows. The taxi driver suddenly uttered something the boys could understand. He was asking where we came from?

“Oh Australia”, one of the boys piped up. A mile-wide smile appeared on the driver’s face. “Ahh, Australia, Casey Stoner, Casey Stoner”, the driver replied. The driver was a fan of MotoGP. We smiled and nodded furiously in unison.

For the remainder of our journey, the taxi driver became our official tour guide, pointing out landmarks, and proudly directing our attention to Real Madrid’s football stadium as we drove by despite being an Athletico Madrid fan. We felt privileged to receive his hospitality.

Outside the hotel, the driver indicated the amount on the meter and an additional surcharge, quickly pocketing the large note that He produced! Again, we looked at one another and instantly knew what hotel reception confirmed a few minutes later. Tour guides come at a price!

Settled in, we took a wander around Charmartin to research the important stuff – where to have dinner that night! The streets were deserted, everything was closed. It was like a ghost town. Mid-afternoon in Madrid, maybe it was siesta time.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do and when in Spain… We had had an early start to catch our flight from Heathrow that morning and so siesta time it was.

Rested and relaxed, we resurfaced at cocktail hour. Still no one in the streets.

charmartinstattion

Charmartin is Madrid’s business district, well known for the two iconic inclined office buildings and the Madrid’s second largest train station. The hotel was across from the station, the reason why the Contiki group were meeting at this particular hotel and the reason why there was nothing open on a Sunday apart from a restaurant immediately outside the hotel.

A beautiful summer evening, we joined others sitting in the alfresco area and perused the tapas menu. Not a word of English. The only thing we recognised on the menu was “Patatas Bravas”. This was going to be an interesting meal. Out came our phrasebooks.

Phrasebooks seem to be very good explaining to the tourist how to ask for a beer in Spanish but totally unhelpful in deciphering a menu. Twenty minutes later and we were none the wiser.

A couple of young fellows at the table next door were enjoying a nice meal and speaking to each other in English. “That looks good, what are you having?”, we asked giving them our menu for them to point out their choices.

“We can’t understand a word of that. Here, take a look at our menu. It’s in English.”

The waiter must have thought we were Spanish!

Madrid

Category: Spain (Page 2 of 3)

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

A summer evening in Ronda

Things to do in incredible Ronda

Enjoy the dramatic views from Mirador Aldehuela