Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Category: Spain (Page 4 of 4)

Hable Ingles? (Do you speak English?)

We climbed into the taxi at the airport somewhat bewildered after disembarking our flight. We had been whisked in a series of trains from the aircraft to the main terminal to clear Customs and collect our baggage.

With fuzzy brains, we were unanimous that it would be easier to catch a taxi to the hotel, where we would stay overnight before bidding our sons farewell as they joined a Contiki tour. We will take a more authentic driving tour around the country.

Our taxi driver seemed an amiable man who responded to our son’s “Hable Inglés?” with a tirade of Spanish that none of us could understand! The boys looked at each other, then us and shrugged. Our hopes of getting off to a start in Spain were pinned on the two years of Spanish lessons our sons had taken at high school nine years ago!

It was Sunday morning, with little traffic on the roads and we looked enthusiastically out of the windows. The taxi driver suddenly uttered something the boys could understand. He was asking where we came from?

“Oh Australia”, one of the boys piped up. A mile-wide smile appeared on the driver’s face. “Ahh, Australia, Casey Stoner, Casey Stoner”, the driver replied. The driver was a fan of MotoGP. We smiled and nodded furiously in unison.

For the remainder of our journey, the taxi driver became our official tour guide, pointing out landmarks, and proudly directing our attention to Real Madrid’s football stadium as we drove by despite being an Athletico Madrid fan. We felt privileged to receive his hospitality.

Outside the hotel, the driver indicated the amount on the meter and an additional surcharge, quickly pocketing the large note that He produced! Again, we looked at one another and instantly knew what hotel reception confirmed a few minutes later. Tour guides come at a price!

Settled in, we took a wander around Charmartin to research the important stuff – where to have dinner that night! The streets were deserted, everything was closed. It was like a ghost town. Mid-afternoon in Madrid, maybe it was siesta time.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do and when in Spain…  We had had an early start to catch our flight from Heathrow that morning and so siesta time it was.

Rested and relaxed, we resurfaced at cocktail hour. Still no one in the streets.

charmartinstattion

Charmartin is Madrid’s business district, well known for the two iconic inclined office buildings and the Madrid’s second largest train station. The hotel was across from the station, the reason why the Contiki group were meeting at this particular hotel and the reason why there was nothing open on a Sunday apart from a restaurant immediately outside the hotel.

A beautiful summer evening, we joined others sitting in the alfresco area and perused the tapas menu. Not a word of English. The only thing we recognised on the menu was “Patatas Bravas”. This was going to be an interesting meal. Out came our phrasebooks.

Phrasebooks seem to be very good explaining to the tourist how to ask for a beer in Spanish but totally unhelpful in deciphering a menu. Twenty minutes later and we were none the wiser.

A couple of young fellows at the table next door were enjoying a nice meal and speaking to each other in English. “That looks good, what are you having?”, we asked giving them our menu for them to point out their choices.

“We can’t understand a word of that. Here, take a look at our menu. It’s in English.”

The waiter must have thought we were Spanish!

Madrid

A rainy day in Spain!

We’ve had our fair share of rain here in Brisbane! Almost non-stop for the past couple of weeks. Unusual for southeast Queensland at this time of year.

As I go about my daily life under the protection of my over-sized golf umbrella, I see tourists walking about with their backpacks, rain jackets and mini umbrellas trying to make the most of their stay in our city.

It reminds me of a rainy day in Spain.

It was the middle of July and we’d arrived in Barcelona having spent ten days leisurely driving south from Madrid to Andalucia and then up along the coastal route taking some time to join the Spanish holidaymakers in the beach towns of Denia and Peniscola.

We had already spent a couple of days exploring the city. It was our first visit to Barcelona and the city was living up to our expectations. A fantastic blend of cultures, Mediterranean influenced cuisine and amazing architecture.

Throughout our time in Spain, the weather had been hot and dry, just as it should be in July. Perfect conditions for those of us who like to travel to warmer climes when winter is upon us at home.

In a city which only experiences, on average, 55 days of rainfall in a year, with July being a month when wet weather should be rare, we are surprised to wake to the sound of heavy rain. We take our time over breakfast hoping that the rain will ease. As simple travellers, we are in no hurry. We do not have a train to catch or tour group to meet. We have no agenda, we are free to decide how we want to spend our day.

We are, however, tourists and the last thing we want is to waste a day sitting inside! We don our jackets and arm ourselves with our little travel umbrellas and head outdoors with no particular destination in mind.

Rain changes a city. A sense of urgency replaces the relaxed atmosphere of the previous day. Everyone is fighting for their space on the pavement dodging the splashes caused by cars in the narrow streets.

As if by chance we end up sheltering from a heavy downpour across the road from Palau Guell. The interesting wrought-iron work on the façade of the building has caught our attention. While this place had not been on our list of places to visit, it’s time to go in somewhere dry.

Guell2

The grand entrance

As it turns out, this ends up being the perfect place to spend a rainy morning. The house was designed by Antoni Gaudi in the late 1880’s for industrialist Eusebi Guell.  We were lucky, the townhouse had just re-opened after undergoing extensive restoration. This was not just any city dwelling. Ornate carved wooden ceilings in some rooms, doors infused with gold leaf, intricate stained glass were all examples of the riot of styles characteristic of Gaudi creations to create an impressive dwelling.

The sun was starting to peek through the clouds as we reached the pinnacle of Gaudi’s play on our senses. If the inside of the building was spectacular in its own peculiar way, Gaudi had decided to make sure his rooftop was a creation in itself. The twenty weird and wonderful chimneys and spire were worth the climb.

Guell4

An extraordinary “by chance” find for us on a rainy day in Spain.

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