We took a final look through the 18th-century Portal de Castilla before turning our backs on Los Arcos. At the end of our long day walking the full Camino de Santiago we would be rewarded by staying an extra day in Logrono.
Day 7 – Los Arcos to Logrono
Our walking notes told us we were going on a long walk from the Navarre region of Spain into the famous Rioja wine area. We had briefly visited the Rioja area on a road trip the year before and had noticed pilgrims walking along the pathways next to the roads. It was exciting to explore the region more thoroughly on foot.
Sansol
Leaving Los Arcos a paved road lined with laden yellow plum trees led us past homes on the outskirts of the town. We walked 7km to the hilltop town of Sansol and could see it long before we arrived. It looked pretty from a distance!
The Camino path led us through the town and it was disappointing to find the streets empty. We kept going to Torres del Rio one kilometre away located on another hill across a ravine. Again, the streets through Torres del Rio were quiet and empty. The town, however, was more interesting than Sansol.
Torres del Rio
A conquered Muslim fortress, Torres del Rio (pop 128) shows its later heritage with signs of being ruled by the Knights of the Templar. Iglesia del Santos Sepulcro, an octagonal-shaped church claims pride of place in the middle of the town with its star-patterned ceiling and engraved pillars. Volunteers sometimes open the church in the mornings.
The Templar hostel is another attraction in the town. Take a peek as you walk by. It is located a few metres up the road from the church. A few more metres further, a mural of the town is painted on the wall of a small courtyard with seating. Pilgrims can take a rest in this quiet olive tree-lined spot.
Taking shortcuts
What goes up must come down! The downhill trail started almost immediately after we left Torres del Rio. We followed another hiker and took an easy shortcut down the steep brush-covered hill instead of taking the winding trail down. We were gingerly descending when a hefty young fellow appeared behind us. When we stood aside for him to pass, he politely invited us to carry on ahead of him.
The Camino provides great opportunities to meet people from around the world and from all walks of life. Some people who walk the Camino like to be alone with their thoughts, but on other days they may be happy to chat with others. Walking companions might also split up for a while to have some time by themselves before rejoining each other and continuing. Pilgrims have a kind of unwritten rule to be aware of their fellow walkers’ body language before starting a conversation.
Conversations with fellow pilgrims
Back on the trail, our tailgater wanted to converse. A soldier in the German army, he was weighed down by a heavy military backpack. Struck down heavily by COVID-19 more than a year before, he was walking the route to improve his fitness and return to serve his country. After telling us his story, he strode boldly onwards.
Many short conversations like this one were had during our days walking the Camino. It provided an insight into why people embark on the long and arduous walk.
A few kilometres further, back amongst open pastures, we came across a rudimentary monument made by Camino travellers. Pebble pyramids had been built in groups on a rise alongside the path and on a barren tree, all sorts of trinkets tied to the branches. Several walkers had stopped to sit and reflect.
We caught up with our young German walker at a rest stop shortly after. Loud Latino music could be heard down the path long before we arrived. A small stall on the trail offered refreshments and a place to rest our feet before continuing. More steep trails needed to be climbed before we reached the main town on our trail that day, Viana.
Viana
Nearly four hours after walking on a combination of roadside tracks and paths through vineyards, we saw Viana in the distance. A portal announced our entrance into Viana but there was still a few hundred metres of walking uphill before we entered this delightful town.
Plaza los Fueros
While the streets were empty walking into the town everything changed when we arrived in the centre. Townfolk were gathered in the town’s main plaza, Plaza los Fueros and surrounding cafes and eateries. The township was a hive of activity.
Our pilgrim’s passports were stamped in the pretty Inglesia de Santa Maria before exploring our options for lunch. We waved at the cyclist we’d run into on previous days enjoying his lunch with a young hiker we’d seen on the trail.
Plenty of other familiar faces could be spotted around the plaza. A couple who both wore support braces; he seemed to alternate wearing them either on both knees or both calves and she on one knee. They captured our attention because, always in deep conversation, they sped up their pace to overtake us before slowing down again when we would overtake them. Before long, the cycle would be again. We learned later that they were from the Canary Islands.
Lunch by the ruins of Iglesia de San Pedro
Further along Calle Rua Santa Maria, almost at the end of the old town, there was a nice cafe/bar where we stopped to enjoy a wonderful salad lunch next to the ruins of another church, Iglesia de San Pedro. The ruins provided the perfect backdrop with its huge Gothic arches.
Refreshed and rested, we left the Viana through Portal de San Felices. A myriad of arrows directed us out of town.
Before long we had caught up with our Canary Island couple and followed them through vineyards for the remaining 9km walk to Logrono. Closer to Logrono we joined a steady stream of pilgrims for the final climb and descent ending at a stall selling snacks and stamping pilgrim’s passports. The stall stands next to the house of Casa Felisa, the house where since 1940 a mother and her daughter have welcomed pilgrims to their town. Our Danish friends who had started earlier than us had stopped too and we walked together on paths lined with community gardens for the remainder of the way into Logrono.
Walking statistics
- 28.77km
- 7 hours including rest stops
Day 8 – A rest day – sightseeing in Logrono
Crossing over the River Erbo, we had entered the old town the day before and instantly felt we would like Logrono.
Our accommodation, Silken Hotel Los Bracos was modern and clean. The room was spacious with views over the rooftops to the church towers and was perfect for our rest day to explore the town.
Having had a late night the day before enjoying the Rioja wine and dining with our Danish friends who were continuing, we woke leisurely. After breakfast, we set off to find the laundromat to do our washing. While waiting for the washing to run through its cycle we took the opportunity to wander up and down Avenida Gran Via Juan Carlos I, the bustling main street bordering the old town.
Our chores were completed an hour later so we had the rest of the day to explore.
Sightseeing in Logrono Old Town
Our first stop was at the Tourist Office to gather information on the notable places in the town to visit. They told us that entry to all places of interest was free.
Across from the Tourist Office is an art gallery. We looked at a photographic exhibition inside before continuing.
Museo de la Rioja
Past the La Rioja Parliament building is a small street which leads to a small plaza, Plaza San Agustin. Straight ahead we found what we had been looking for, a stunning Baroque building, Espatero Palace, where the Museum de la Rioja is now housed. Another grand building next to the Palace is the Logrono’s old post office, now a prestigious hotel.
A couple of informative hours were spent in the museum learning about the history of La Rioja. We highly recommend a visit.
Plaza de Mercado and Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda
The next stop was Plaza del Mercado, a leafy square and a central hub of the old city. Santa Maria de la Redonda cathedral features twin Baroque towers and is the highlight of the square. We took a quick look inside the church, the intricately designed and gleaming gold altarpiece is the cathedral’s crowning glory.
Buskers were singing and playing music on the perimeters of the square and there are plenty of cafes and bars to choose from to sit and enjoy the atmosphere. It was the perfect opportunity to embrace the ambience over our lunch before continuing.
Mercado de San Blas
We had heard much about the vibrance of La Riojan food and wines so a stop at the marketplace, Mercado de San Blas was a must. However, on arrival, we found that most stalls had closed for the day. There were still a few open fruit stalls, so we bought some fresh summer fruit to enjoy later.
A night of tapas and vino in Calle Laurel
Eating out on Calle Laurel is highly recommended on the list of things to do when in Logrono. It’s next to the Mercado, lined with pintxos/tapas and wine bars. It’s the perfect place to indulge in the region’s delicacies. The bars are open for lunch and dinner. Each bar has its specialities so the best way to enjoy them is to hop from one bar to another sampling each. We enjoyed the evening doing exactly that while incorporating a little people-watching.
One last stop – Parque de Espolon
A walk around Parque de Espolon, a large park and square not far from Calle Laurel completed our evening. The park is where the locals come at the end of the day for a stroll or to sit on a bench surrounded by flower beds and the imposing statue dedicated to General Balomero Espartero, a local hero. Again, it was the perfect place to enjoy people-watching.
In case you missed it – Walking the full Camino de Santiago
If you’d like to follow our journey from the start, click on the links below to read:
