This is our first visit to Cairo, the Egyptian capital. Our initial impressions were formed through the window of our small shuttle bus from the airport to our downtown hotel. No sign of the Great Pyramids!
The ride was interesting. All types of vehicles manoeuvred randomly with complete disregard for the lane markings. Every passenger on the bus gasped at every near miss and even more so when it looked like we were going to be side-swiped. Our driver drove on unperturbed by the slamming of brakes and vehicles pulling in front of him. No need to use the indicators when a honk of the horn will do. Produce delivery trucks weaved among old Ladas and Fiats (all with dented panels) within centimetres of each other while avoiding the pedestrians casually walking on the motorway.
Spires of the city’s mosques spotted the horizon here and there between multi-storey apartment buildings, some of which were inhabited but looked incomplete. Furnished apartments sat next to open shells and herds of goats wandered about on the top floors of vacant buildings. Families appeared to be living in shacks on rooftops. With no priority given to adorn the exterior of these buildings, the stark structures stood out everywhere often surrounded by rubble. Cairo resembles a warzone.
Apartment buildings lined the motorway into central Cairo
Our guide, Amir tells us when we quiz him later that Egyptians do not consider it important to embellish the exterior of their homes. What looked like incomplete shells of homes are apartments that have been purchased by Egyptians as an investment for later use. They will be enclosed and decorated when they are ready to live in them.
Our small group is staying at the Ramses Hilton in downtown Cairo. A labyrinth of roads and flyovers obstruct what were once wonderful views of the River Nile at the entrance and hampers access to the river promenade.
Our guide suggests that we will find it difficult to negotiate the traffic and crowded streets of Cairo and instead may prefer to enjoy the hotel facilities before we commence the official tour the next morning.
However, being used to independent travel and wanting to see more of the city and how people live in this city of nearly 20million people, we hit the streets as soon as we are refreshed.
The busy roads along the River Nile and just outside our hotel entrance
It is early evening and peak hour. Our aim is to cross the maze of roads to walk along the promenade. The easiest way is to tag along with the locals the first few times and by the end of the evening, we are experts.
A leisurely stroll with a tube of hot roasted peanuts picked up from a street vendor on the way brings us to 6 October Bridge to have a look at the vista up and down the river. The bridge is crowded with other tourists just like us admiring the scenery. On the way we have been accosted by Egyptian men trying to sell us boat rides on the river, asking us where we are going and offering to take us. We have read that it is pertinent not to take up these offers in case we end up purchasing an authentic handmade carpet which we have no intention of buying. This theme, we find follows us around most of Egypt. We fend off these helpful Egyptians as tactfully as possible.
We successfully dodged the traffic to cross Tahrir Square
The walk continues to Tahrir Square, another episode of dashing across roads but provides the perfect opportunity to observe the people of Cairo. Groups of young people (mostly young males) linger around the square watching cars chaotically manoeuvre themselves around the roundabout. The shopping street, Talaat Harb is laden with families out in the cold evening and eating out at simple eating houses. Eager to try Egyptian cuisine, we’re on the lookout for a suitable venue. Nothing stands out, there doesn’t seem to be any traditional restaurants visible.
We had checked online for recommendations before leaving the hotel. Café Riche is recommended by both TripAdvisor and our trusty DK Eyewitness travel guide. Dating back to the early 1900’s, the café was a meeting place for literary groups and intellectuals, as well as revolutionaries. The dark wood panelling, bookshelves and tables scattered with books and newspapers and the dimmed lighting complete with a smattering of guests emits a beautiful ambience. The menu, however, is not what we are looking for.
A little further along we reach a Talaat Harb Square. Nothing extraordinary here until we cast our eyes upwards. We are greeted with architectural magnificence, remnants of British rule in Egypt. Ornate balconies and shuttered windows look aged and neglected however, add character and elegance to the square.
Evening time along historic Talaat Harb
We join the Egyptians to eat in a simple and clean chain restaurant, GAD filled with young couples, families and male work colleagues sharing a vast array of dishes – shawarma with dips, salads, Egyptian style pizzas and more. We are the only foreigners. It seems that others have taken the advice not to venture out solo.
Tired but satisfied to have made the choice to leave the hotel, we decide it is time to wander back. This time, it is along the narrow streets and back lanes where the heart of the city beats. We find auto-mechanics working away fixing up old Ladas and Fiats under dim lamps and streetlights. Cars are not thrown on the scrap heap so readily here. They are recycled.
The backstreets of Cairo
We do not feel threatened or worried about our safety on the way. Armed with the art of crossing the still busy roads of Cairo, we arrive back into the comfort of our hotel. A comfort that not all Egyptians have.
It has been an enlightening first day in Egypt.
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