After 36 days of walking the full Camino de Santiago route (780km) from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in southern France, we stood in front of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela. We had done it!
Why we chose to walk the full Camino de Santiago
Ten years earlier, we had stood in the same spot watching bedraggled but euphoric pilgrims arrive after completing their Camino walk. This scene inspired us to set ourselves the challenge of some day completing our own Camino walk.
Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela
Once we’d decided to walk the Camino, we agreed that we wanted to commit to walking the entire Camino Frances route.
World events and other travel plans meant our Camino had to be put on hold for several years, but in 2023, we decided that this was the perfect time to do it. We reconnected with our travel arrangers, UTracks, to make the arrangements.
Were we ready to do this – Camino jitters
Did we get Camino jitters? Of course we did! We had never walked long distances on hiking trails, almost every day for 36 days.
Getting closer and closer to our start date, we often asked ourselves questions, “Were we ready to do this?”, “Were we prepared, had we trained enough?”, “Had we packed the right gear?”. All are questions that first-time Camino pilgrims ask themselves.
Suddenly, we were in St-Jean-de-Pied-de-Port, and the only way to go was forward. We started by putting one foot in front of the other and completed one of the hardest days on the Camino de Santiago, hiking over the Pyrenees mountains into Spain.
Did we enjoy walking the full Camino de Santiago?
Yes. It is indeed an experience of a lifetime. Little did we know when we started that it would leave an indelible mark on our lives. In one way or another, we find ourselves recalling or talking about a particular scene, episode, or day on our walk.
Then, there are the people we met over the 36 days of walking the full Camino de Santiago. People walk the Camino de Santiago for various reasons; some prefer to walk solo with minimal interaction, while others enjoy meeting and engaging with fellow walkers from around the world. We met some wonderful people during our time on the Camino.
How did we feel when we got to our destination?
Watching pilgrims arrive at the Cathedral on our first visit, we saw a mix of both tears of joy, elation, and in some cases, pure exhaustion.
How did we feel? There was a small shine in the eye but even more were the wide smiles on our faces. We had achieved the challenge we had set for ourselves. We had reached our destination safely and without injury.
Ground Zero – Plaza de Obra
The important stuff for walking the full Camino de Santiago
We’re glad we …
Made sure we were fit and ready. Important lesson is get in shape before you arrive to commence the Camino. Don’t be afraid of the idea of having to walk every day or the distances. You”ll find your walking legs affer a few days.
Invested in good footwear and breathable socks. We bought sturdy new hiking shoes and broke them in before we arrived in St Jean Pied de Port. Most importantly, to prevent the common Camino feet ailments of blisters and sore muscles, we stopped regularly throughout the day to take off our shoes and socks, air our feet and rest.
Used hiking poles. We invested in a pair retractable hiking poles which we carried in our daypacks ever ready to come out whenever we needed support going up and down hills. We found they came in extremely useful to steady and assist on the steep descents. They prevented us, as is the tendency, from moving downhill too fast. We came across a few pilgrims suffering knee injuries or just sore knees from going too fast without the support of hiking poles.
Chose to walk the full Camino de Santiago during the summer months. This prevented us having to walk in rainwear as well as slippery and muddy tracks. Yes, the summer can be hot and dry. We started our daily walks immediately after breakfast, when the temperatures were moderate, to arrive at our destination by ealy afternoon before the extreme heat arrived. By the late afternoon we were sitting refreshed and relaxed in a cool spot having pre-dinner drinks. Some of our walking companions chose to commence in the very early hours to avoid the heat in the day. To escape any injury, we preferred not to walk in thr dark.
Took our time and paid attention when on the trail. It’s easy to lose focus when you’re tired. That’s how injuries happen! Or waymarkers get missed!
Took advantage of luggaage transfers. Many pilgrims prefer to carry their own backpack and belongings. We enjoyed the freedom to enjoy our daily walks without the extra weight on our backs. Our transfers were efficiently undertaken by Jacobtrans. More often than not, our bags had arrived and were safely installed in our rooms before we arrived.
Booked private accommodation instead of choosing to stay in albergues. Knowing we had somewhere pre-arranged to stay overnight meant we could enjoy our walking days. We noticed many pilgrims depart in the ealy hours trying to reach their next destination before others arrived to ensure they had secured a bed for the night. If they arrived too late and missed out they would have to continue to the next albergue which could a distance away or even worse, have to backtrack. We also took the option to upgrade our accommodation at several stops so that we could experience staying in a monastery.
Factored in rest days. Northern Spain has some beautiful cities which international tourists don’t visit. Pilgrims can really experience the authenticity of a Spanish city. We took rest days in Logrono and Leon. It allowed us to spend the day looking more closely at the city and visit their attractions. We also recommend staying an extra night in Burgos.
Took our travel yoga mats with us. Having our yoga mats on hand meant we were disciplined and did yoga and stretches at the end of each day. It made a big difference. We had no aches or pains and suffered no injuries during our walk.
Be prepared
Some of our thoughts on enjoying and making the most of your Camino. Be prepared:
To put away your device while walking. Use it only for taking photos to record memories of your journey. Instead, enjoy the natural environment, greet and interact with fellow pilgrims and locals. You’ll find that language is not a barrier when walking the full Camino de Santiago.
To turn and look back. Some of the best scenery could be behind you. Unless you are planning to walk a return journey, you may not see the same scenery again.
To walk at your own pace. As long as you have done the preparatory work before commencing the Camino, your body will get used to the environment and walking long distance.
To find you”ll miss walking the full Camino de Santiago. Many pilgrims experience a sense of loss once they have finished their route. The daily act of walking becomes meditative an addictive and as you get closer to the end, you almost don’t want it to end.
Our recommendation
Time permitting, we recommend walking the full Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela as a wonderful active holiday experience. While the final 100km can become busy, for most of the journey it’s the best way to see northern Spain’s stunning natural environment without crowds of tourists.
The Camino provides an opportunity to escape the everyday noise of the world provides time for peaceful reflection.
The Camino allows us to challenge and find that our bodies are capable of the physical and mental challenges of traversing ever changing terrain and the large distance.
Would we walk the full Camino de Santiago again?
For some pilgrims/walkers, walking the Camino de Santiago fulfils a once in a lifetime dream. Others return to walk the same path over and over again. We enjoyed our personal Camino and the challenge.
There is always the possibility that we will return to walk the same route again. As travel enthusiasts, however, there are so many other travel adventures we would like to undertake before we returned again to recomplete the full Camino Frances. There are numerous other Camino routes we would consider completing first.
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
Are you interested in or contemplating walking the full or part of the Camino de Santiago and want to know more? Take a look at our blog which tells you everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago through the link below.
On a trip to Spain a few years ago, we visited Santiago de Compostela. Roaming the historic district, we saw pilgrims who had just completed the Camino de Santiago. Despite carrying heavy backpacks, they arrived at Obradoiro Square with unwavering determination. Exhaustion on their faces turned into pure joy as they approached the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Piqued by our curiosity about what makes this place so unique, we decided to embark on the 780km journey ourselves. If you’re considering taking on this incredible journey, we’re pleased to be able to tell you everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago.
A little history on walking the Camino de Santiago
Whether you know it as the Camino de Santiago, Camino Frances, the French Way or The Way of St James, the Camino has existed for more than 1000 years as a Christian pilgrimage route.
During medieval times, the Camino was renowned as one of the top three Christian pilgrimages. Pilgrims followed the route to Santiago de Compostela, where legend tells that the remains of Saint James lie in the Cathedral. Saint James is said to have played a crucial role in spreading the religion throughout the Iberian Peninsula.
Traditionally, the Camino began on the pilgrim’s doorstep, wherever that was. However, today, for most pilgrims, it more commonly starts in the small village of St. Jean Pied de Port in southern France and follows several routes to finish in Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain.
The medieval pilgrim undertook the arduous pilgrimage for religious reasons seeking forgiveness for their sins or to ask for assistance in some way. You do not have to be a Christian pilgrim to complete the walk. Today, the modern pilgrim undertakes the walk for a range of reasons – religious, spiritual, historical, cultural or just the physical challenge.
How was the route created?
Our research suggests that the route was originally conveyed by word of mouth. Pilgrims provided each other with advice on the best route and which places to stop at. Over time, this developed into a well-trodden route from which Book V of the Codex Calixtinus: A Guide for the Traveller evolved in the 12th century.
After medieval times, pilgrimage decreased in popularity mainly due to religious wars and reformation. Pilgrims continued to walk the Camino, however, the numbers completing the journey were nowhere near the 250,000 people that undertook the journey annually.
A resurgence in interest in the Camino pilgrimage came about in the 1980s when Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, the priest of the Galician village of O Cebreiro, marked the ancient route with yellow arrows so that pilgrims could easily find the way. And, so the modern-day Camino was born. Today, over 400,000 individuals from all corners of the world walk the Camino de Santiago every year.
Pilgrims undertaking the Camino from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. One of the busiest portions of the Camino de Santiago
Everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago
Do you have to walk the whole of the Camino de Santiago?
You do not have to be a Christian pilgrim to complete the walk, neither do you have to complete the full Camino de Santiago.
We met many time-poor walkers who completed the 780km walk in portions over years during vacations or finished the final 100km from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela for the pilgrim’s certificate.
If you’re interested in nature and experiencing the beautiful Spanish countryside, again, there are many options available on where to start and stop. Rail and bus services are available to the larger towns and cities on the Camino trail, making them perfect to commence and finish from without having to walk the full distance.
We decided to undertake the complete route over 38 days, which included an extra night each in the two cities we had not visited before: Logrono and Leon, allowing us time to explore them more comprehensively. For those who have more time and prefer not to pre-book accommodation, there is ample opportunity to extend the walk to however long you wish.
When to go
Most guidebooks recommend doing the walk during the more pleasant cooler months, typically between April and June or September to November. Winter months, bring snow to some parts of the track, and most accommodations close down for the winter. If you intend to do the walk during the recommended months it’s important to book your accommodation early and be aware that the trail may be heavily congested at times.
If you are not concerned about hot weather, the trail is less crowded during the European summer months of July and August. While you will still find other pilgrims on the way there will be fewer of them. Be prepared to make earlier starts to your walking day to ensure that you are not walking during the hottest part of the day.
Note: We walked the Camino in July and early August and encountered several hot days. By commencing earlier in the morning we ensured that we had completed walking before the hottest part of the day which is usually after 3pm in the north of Spain. Walking during this time of the year ensured there were fewer rainy days which we preferred over the heat.
Where to stay when walking the Camino de Santiago
Accommodation on the Camino is available for all budgets, from traditional albergues to luxury hotels and everything in between depending on the size of the township.
Albergues
Albergues (hostels) are the traditional accommodation on the Camino. They are based on the medieval pilgrim hospitals which offered simple overnight lodgings at minimal cost. The accommodation is normally communal with shared dormitories and facilities and available for one night only.
The Albergue in the small hamlet of San Juan de Ortega is attached to the church and old monastery
Albergues are widely used by walkers looking for flexibility in their daily walking distances because they cannot be booked ahead of time and are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. If the hostel at your preferred overnight destination is fully booked when you arrive, you can walk further to the next town or return to the last town you passed to try your luck. The upside is that there are plenty of albergues on the Camino route.
Guesthouses/Casa Rurales
The Casa Rural where we stayed overnight in Rabanal del Camino
In Spain, “Casa Rurales” are small, family-run accommodations located in towns where there are no hotels available. These are unique boutique places to stay that offer an authentic Spanish experience, where old homes have been restored to retain the architecture of the area. Along the Camino, they are the perfect way to experience the local way of life, traditional foods, and hospitality. Casas usually have a few bedrooms, each with private bathroom facilities, and the hosts provide breakfasts and dinners.
Hotels
On the Camino, you’ll find hotels in the larger towns and there’s usually one to suit all budgets. Like most other countries they range on a scale of one to five stars. You’ll see the star rating on a sign at the entrance along with a capital “H”, the sign indicating that the accommodation is a hotel.
Our very comfortable and modern hotel in the picturesque town of Molinaseca
Slightly smaller towns may have hotel accommodations but they may not be highly starred. All of them do, however, provide basic amenities and are comfortable enough if you are only staying overnight.
Paradores
Spain is well known for its Paradores, premium luxury accommodations converted from castles and monasteries. A few are located on the Camino trail, mainly former monasteries, where you can book accommodation. They’re a great way to live within the monastic surroundings and often have spectacular cloisters that are only accessible to guests.
The Monasterio de San Zoilo where we enjoyed an overnight stay
Where we stayed on our Camino experience
We had the wonderful opportunity to stay in various accommodations on our Camino experience. While we didn’t stay in the traditional shared accommodation in albergues, in small towns without options, we stayed in private rooms with our facilities located next to or within albergues. The facilities were clean and comfortable, and the meals provided were of excellent quality and quantity.
In larger towns, our hotel offerings ranged between 3 and 4 stars and were conveniently situated in the town centre so we could explore after arrival.
We took the opportunity to upgrade our accommodation to Paradores or equivalents at several destinations and all provided unique and excellent experiences. Read more about them by following our journey.
The terrain
The Camino is a beautiful trail that offers a mix of terrain and scenery. You’ll walk on pavements and tracks through pastures, forests and on flat tracks, as well as alongside roads. However, be prepared for some challenging mountainous terrain, with several steep ascents and descents. Despite the difficulty, the breathtaking views from the peaks make it worth it. The rolling hills and stunning scenery of Spain make it a unique and unforgettable experience.
Stunning scenery on reaching the summit at O’Cebreiro
Preparation and equipment you’ll need
Preparation is key for a satisfying Spanish Camino experience, regardless of distance. An adequate level of fitness is necessary.
Your Footwear
Most important are the walking shoes you decide to wear. Many hikers find they are comfortable completing the journey in regular sports shoes while others will use more sturdier hiking shoes or boots. During the summer months, some walkers will use hiking sandals. Whichever type of footwear you decide to use, you should wear them in. The best way to do this is to use them in your pre-walk training with good socks, which breathe well and are blister-proof.
Camino walk days will vary between 20-30km so it’s also important to prepare your body for the task of getting up to walk for good lengths of time day after day and varying terrain between flat and steeper and rockier hill tracks.
We used La Sportiva hiking shoes for our journey and took an extra pair of trainers as a backup. Our La Sportiva took us the full distance to Santiago de Compostella. While there was no tread left on the soles of the shoes when we reached Santiago de Compostella they provided sturdy footing through final climbs and descents.
Hiking Poles or not?
Hiking poles can be a great support and assist with your footing, especially when you’re trekking up and down steep tracks. However, it’s important to consider the weight of the poles before purchasing them. You should also consider how much you think you will need them as it will determine whether you should opt for collapsible poles or not. We noticed that some people used hiking poles consistently on flat terrain, while others used them mainly for steeper climbs and descents. On the other hand, some preferred to hike without poles altogether.
We found our poles extremely useful and used them consistently finding them extremely useful for stability on the steeper descents and assistance on the ascents. The poles also provided an opportunity to include an upper-body workout when we used them on the flat. Our poles were collapsible and purchased from Decathlon which we could store on the side of our daypacks to pull out for use whenever we found the necessity.
Your Backpack
The backpack you decide to use will be determined by whether you wish to walk with a full backpack containing all your belongings or just a daypack with just the daily essentials.
If you decide to walk with a full backpack it is good to know that the trail is well supported where accommodations and townships provide laundry facilities so you do not need to overpack with extra items. To ensure safety and enjoyment of the walk our research indicates that you should not carry more than 10-15% of your body weight.
You can arrange to have your luggage transferred daily to your next accommodation, lightening your load and making your journey more comfortable. Many companies offer this service along the Camino route, and you can use it whenever you need to take a break or travel light.
We decided to take advantage of the transfer facility to allow us the pleasure of enjoying the Camino experience. Our lightweight High Sierra mini backpacks were compact and with enough room to store the belongings, we needed to carry for a day’s walk.
Be weather prepared
The Camino’s weather can vary, so be prepared with a rain jacket and backpack cover for a comfortable walk.
Summer weather can be unpredictable on the pilgrimage. The south of France and the last stage from Sarria can be particularly unpredictable. Northern Spain can be cool in the early mornings during summer, so we used rain jackets as an extra layer of protection for the first hour of the morning. After that, we could fold them away.
Wayfinding
One of the benefits of the revival of the Camino Frances route is that the entire path is now well-identified by the legendary scallop shell symbol. Posts with the symbol and distance to Santiago de Compostela line the route with yellow arrows on footpaths and sides of buildings to guide pilgrims in navigating through the larger cities.
Wayfinding on the Camino de Santiago
There are a few mobile phone apps available that provide maps, guidance on the terrain, real-time alerts and information on the villages, towns and cities you will visit along with information on accommodation availability.
Our travel arranger provided us with details notes in small booklet form which we could carry in our backpacks. We found, however, that the signage was so good that we only had to refer to the booklets a few times. In larger cities, Google Maps sufficed to help us find our accommodation and we did not use an app.
Our guidebook was incredibly helpful during our journey. It provided information on every place we visited and helped us prepare for each day’s walk. This is a must-have for anyone planning to travel the Camino independently.
Services and facilities on the route
Food and drink
Cafes and bars appear often as you pass through small towns on the track where you can stop for coffee, top up on water and have a bite to eat. It’s always good to be prepared though by carrying small snacks to sustain you along. We always had either a protein bar or a small bag of nuts in our backpack. And, if available, we picked up a piece of fruit at breakfast to eat on the way.
Temporary cafes are set up for pilgrims on the longer stretches where there are no other facilities
If you’re looking for a meal at the end of the day, many restaurants and albergues on the Camino offer a “Pilgrims menu” which is a three-course meal consisting of a starter, main and dessert. Prices will vary depending on the quality of the restaurant. Our package also included a bottle of local wine every evening with our meal.
Restrooms
There are no public restrooms on the Camino. The best option, if you need to visit a bathroom is to buy a snack or drink at a cafe and use their facilities.
Things to remember when walking the Camino de Santiago
Pilgrim’s Credential and Compostela
Your Compostela is the official certificate recognising the completion of the Camino de Santiago or at least 100km. The Compostela certificate is issued at the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago de Compostela not far from the Cathedral.
To earn your Compostela you need to have a Pilgrim’s Credential, also known as Pilgrim’s Passport. This Passport is a folded card that has space for you to have your journey stamped along the way. The document should be stamped at least twice a day and there are many places where you can have your card stamped, such as churches, cathedrals, monuments, tourist information points, cafes, and accommodations. Each stamp is unique to the establishment and serves as a great memory of the places you’ve visited along the way.
If you’re starting the Camino in St. Jean Pied de Port, you can collect your Passport from the Pilgrim’s Office there for a couple of Euros. You’ll also find many shops, churches, albergues and hotels selling them on the route.
The Passport doesn’t have an expiry date so if you’re completing the Camino in stages over time, you can continue to use it until you have reached Santiago de Compostela.
Collect your scallop shell
The scallop shells are considered a significant symbol of the pilgrimage, and you can spot them everywhere, including on the route waymarkers. Though not mandatory, it is a common practice among pilgrims to attach a scallop shell to their backpacks to identify themselves as pilgrims on the Camino. You can either bring a scallop shell from home or purchase one from the Welcome Office in St. Jean Pied de Port before commencing your journey, or from one of the many stalls or shops along the way.
Camino etiquette
It is important to remember that all hikers in the Camino are travelling at their own pace. Some walk faster or slower than others. On narrower tracks, it’s polite to step aside to where you can to allow fellow pilgrims to pass by acknowledging you with the Camino greeting “Buen Camino”.
“Buen Camino” has varying meanings on the Camino. It’s used as a hello, goodbye, or have a good walk. The greeting feels like a form of comradeship between pilgrims undertaking the journey.
You’ll find not only pilgrims using the greeting between themselves. Locals will bid you “Buen Camino” as you pass them in the streets in small villages and towns or as you leave a cafe or store.
One thing to be mindful of is that many walkers are on their own journey and may want to walk part or even the whole Camino in solitude. It is important to respect each pilgrim.
The Camino is not a “race”
If you want to complete the Camino de Santiago and reach Santiago de Compostela safely and without injury, it’s important to pace yourself each and every day. Remember you will be getting up to walk another 20-30km again the next day. We were fortunate to complete the Camino without injury or the dreaded blisters that haunt many a pilgrim.
Our simple tactic was to ensure we used our hiking poles when climbing but more importantly on the steep descents, we stopped regularly to rest and take our shoes and socks off to allow our feet to breathe and, every day, no matter how tired we were, we unrolled our travel yoga mats to complete 30-40 minutes of yoga and stretching.
Another benefit of taking it slow is being able to notice the small things happening around you, enjoy the experience and capture moments which become lifelong memories.
Our travel arrangers
For peace of mind, we decided to engage travel arrangers, UTracks to complete arrangements on our behalf for the Camino portion of our travel. UTracks are an arm of the World Expeditions Group specialising in active travel.
UTracks and their Spanish partners, Tee Travel provided us with a suggested self-guided walking itinerary with recommendations for extra night stays to allow us time to explore the larger cities and their attractions and then tailored our Camino walk to our requirements. The package included accommodation, breakfasts and dinners, transfers back to the accommodation at the end of the day and return to the start point the next day where adequate accommodation was unavailable in smaller towns, trip notes, luggage transfers, pilgrim’s passport and emergency hotline.
We cannot recommend them highly enough.
Want to know more
We’ve tried to include as much general information as we can above. If there is anything we haven’t covered and if you have specific questions when considering or preparing to undertake the walk, we are more than happy to provide more information from our experience. Visit our Contact Us page for our contact details.
If you’d like to know more, follow our journey from Day 1where we share our daily experiences walking the Camino de Santiago
