Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: europe holidays (Page 1 of 2)

Reasons why you should visit Bern, Switzerland’s charming capital

With so many beautiful places vying for your time when visiting Switzerland, it’s easy to skip the main cities for that spectacular mountain scenery. Surprisingly, we found Switzerland’s capital city, Bern, to be an amazing place to spend a few days. Read our reasons why you should visit Bern, Switzerland’s charming capital.

A little bit about Bern

Bern was founded in 1191 and joined the Swiss Confederation in 1353. The city became Switzerland’s capital city in 1848.

The city is built on a bend of the Aare River, and its old town is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Bern’s uniqueness is the conscious decision that was made to preserve the old town’s urban planning when building the new city around it.

In 1405, a fire destroyed most of the Old Town. What you see walking around the Altstadt today are the beautiful sandstone buildings, which replaced the wooden structures when the city was rebuilt.

Arriving in Bern

We drove into the city on a hot summer afternoon, passing scenes of city folk on floating devices or paddling in the Aare River. Our slow drive from Interlaken was punctuated by stops in the atmospheric towns and villages around Lake Thun, with an extended stay in the picturesque town of Thun.

Covered bridge in Thun, Switzerland
A covered bridge in Thun

By the time we had settled in, it was close to cocktail hour. A walk into town to find our bearings before a relaxed evening, complete with people-watching and finding a nice spot to sit and enjoy a cold beverage, was the plan. It would be a way to get an insight into the city. We would be out in earnest early the next day to really see Bern!

Our favourite things to do in Bern

We were disappointed to learn, a couple of hours before it was to start, that our walking tour of Bern had been cancelled. Luckily, we always research our destinations before we travel and have a good idea of what we would like to see. So, off we set on our own self-guided walk. Below are our favourite parts of the city to visit.

Bern Altstadt (Old Town)

The highlight of visiting Bern is spending time in its UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old Town. Cobblestoned streets are lined with beautifully arcaded buildings with shops, cafes and bars occupying the ground floors.

Reasons why you should visit Bern, Switzerland's charming capital
Bern’s colourful Altstadt

Bern’s iconic fountains

One of Bern Altstadt’s features is its distinctive 16th-century fountains. Look out for them as you wander through the streets. There are 11 fountains dating back to the 16th century, as well as four that were built later. The renowned Swiss Renaissance sculptor, Hans Geing, made the older fountains. Each fountain features a statue of a real Bern personality or a piece of folklore from the city’s past.

One of the iconic fountains in the capital of Switzerland, Bern Altstadt
A couple of Bern’s iconic fountains
One of the iconic fountains in the capital of Switzerland, Bern Altstadt

Zytgogge

The tower of the Old Town’s western 12th-century city gate is one of Bern’s iconic structures. It houses the clock, which was added in 1530. The clock is one of the oldest in Switzerland, and the astronomical clock below has mechanical figures that appear on the hour, providing a little show for onlookers.

Bern Zytgotte and the astronomical clock in the 12th-century city gate of the Altstadt
Bern Zytgotte and the astronomical clock in the 12th-century city gate of the Altstadt

Bern Cathedral

Bern Minster (Cathedral) is Switzerland’s tallest cathedral.

The Minster was built gradually, with construction starting in 1421 and completed in 1893. This extended building process resulted in a combination of French and German Gothic styles being incorporated into the final building that you see today.

Bern Cathedral in the Swiss capital of Bern
Bern Cathedral with its towering spire

The 100 metre spire can be climbed over 344 steps for rewarding views of the Old Town and the Swiss Alps in the distance.

Inside the Minster, you’ll find 16th-century carved choir stalls, beautiful stained glass windows, sculptures and frescoes.

Rathausplatz

Bern Rathaus

Tucked away from Altstadt’s busy pedestrian zone is Rathausplatz. And, just a few steps away is the 600-year-old Town Hall building.

Bern Rathaus in Rathausplatz, Bern Switzerland
The ornate staircase of Bern’s Rathaus

The building is still used for Bern’s parliament and government meetings.

St Peter and Paul Church

Standing next to the Town Hall is the Church of St Peter and Paul. The church is the first Catholic Church to be built in Bern after the Reformation. Built in 1858, the church’s unique architecture combines Gothic and Romanesque styles.

St Peter and Paul Church in Rathausplatz, Bern, Switzerland
St Peter and Paul Church in Rathausplatz

Bundesplatz

Bundesplatz (Parliament Square) is the lively heart of Bern. Until 2003, the square was a large parking lot before it was transformed into an elegant square. Today, the square is a popular gathering place in the city, where major festivals are often held. If you happen to be there on a Tuesday or Saturday, you’ll find the square filled with market stalls.

We were fortunate to visit when Switzerland was celebrating its National Day. Marquees and food trucks were setting up when we went through the square on our morning walk.

When in the square, look out for the fountain. It has 26 jets, each one symbolising one of Switzerland’s Cantons.

Bundeshaus

The central feature of Bundesplatz is the Bundeshaus (Parliament Building) with its impressive architecture, including the central dome.

The Bundeshaus in Switzerland's capital city, Bern
The regal Bundeshaus

Unfortunately, we were unable to secure a guided tour inside because of the National Day Holiday. On the holiday, the public can visit without a booking, but the queues to enter were so long that we decided to make better use of our time. The interior is said to be more spectacular than the exterior facade. Free 60-minute guided tours are offered inside the building on non-session days. Tours are very popular and limited to 30 people on each tour. You will need to make a reservation in advance.

Bundesterrasse

Tucked behind the Bundeshaus is a little treasure that’s often missed by visitors to Bern.

Bundesterrasse is a long promenade with stunning views over the River Aare and another local gathering point. You’ll find locals catching up over an aperitif, reading or simply strolling along the promenade. It’s also a great spot to watch swimmers floating down the river on a hot summer afternoon.

A few more things

Rosengarten

A walk up the hill from Bern’s Altstadt will find you in the Rosengarten. It’s a tranquil spot to escape the city below.

Views over rhe Swiss capital of Bern from the Rosengarten
Views from the Rosengarten

You’ll find people enjoying a break on the park benches or wandering about, enjoying the rose gardens. The best in the park, though, is the terrace. It’s a wonderful place to sit on the stone wall and take in the panoramic view of the old town and beyond.

Capture the views from Kirchenfeldbrücke

Views from Kirchenfeldbrücke in Bern, Switzerland
Views from Kirchenfeldbrücke

If you’re crossing the Kirchnfeldbrücke to the museum district, stop halfway to look back at the Altstadt from another perspective.

City Bear Park

Bears have been part of Bern town since the 16th century. These days, bears are housed in a large park across the river from the Altstadt, close to the River Aare. The park is open to the public and free.

Where we stayed

We were fortunate to stay in a lovely apartment in the leafy embassy district of the city. The apartment was an easy 1km walk to the Altstadt; however, Bern has a wonderful free tram system. With the tram stop just a few metres away, we had the choice of walking or taking the tram to the centre of town when it was too hot.

We were able to explore a part of the city we would not have considered otherwise.

Our delightful host, Maxine and her husband lived on the ground floor of the apartment building, greeting us on arrival and waving us away on departure. They provided free on-site parking and upgraded us to a spacious, beautifully decorated four-bedroom apartment (there are only two of us).

Where we dined

Being an international destination, Switzerland offers travellers a variety of dining options. We enjoyed a delicious Thai meal at Three Kitchen and Bar on Rathausgasse, which we can highly recommend if you’re looking for an alternative to traditional Swiss cuisine when in Bern.

What we thought

Bern is not just Switzerland’s capital; it’s also one of its hidden gems. A beautiful city full of charm, history, and character, with plenty to see and do, we highly recommend including a stay in your itinerary. You won’t be disappointed.

In case you’re interested

Our travels have taken us to other towns and cities in Switzerland, which we believe are worth visiting. Take a look at our recommendations by clicking on the links below.

Lucerne is a beautiful Swiss town you must visit

We were captivated by our first visit to Lucerne during our road trip through Switzerland on the way to Italy, so we returned for another look around on a more comprehensive journey through Switzerland. Lucerne is a beautiful Swiss town you must visit.

Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s finest towns.  The city sits on a lake surrounded by majestic mountains and an old town, where you can spend hours ambling through its squares and alleyways.

A brief history of Lucerne

From a small fishing village, Lucerne grew after a monastery was established nearby in 750. It was only after a major trading route to Italy opened in the 13th century, passing through the village, that Lucerne grew in prominence.

In the early 16th century, Lucerne was the only major Swiss town to reject the Reformation and soon became a power within the Catholic religion in Switzerland.

While the rest of Switzerland thrived in industrialisation during the 19th century, Lucerne transformed itself into a major tourist destination. Grand hotels and infrastructure were built to attract discerning travellers.

While the new infrastructure was being developed, many old buildings and fortifications were destroyed to make way for the Neustadt(new city quarter). The city did preserve its 14th-century northern wall and towers. These are open to the public to visit during the summer months.

Our favourite things to do in Lucerne

Take a stroll along Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke)

Lucerne’s most famous landmark is, without doubt, the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge). The oldest covered bridge in Europe spans the River Ruess linking the new town to the old on the right bank.

Chapel Bridge in Lucerne, Switzerland
Lucerne’s iconic Kapellbrücke

Built in 1365, the bridge was part of the city’s fortifications. One of the main features of the bridge is the paintings on the gables as you walk along the bridge. Being the only cities in Switzerland to remain Catholic and eager to maintain their faith, the city authorities commissioned paintings recounting the lives of saints as a reminder for townsfolk.

Paintings on the Chapel Bridge, Lucerne, Switzerland
Paintings on the Chapel Bridge

A fire in 1993 nearly destroyed the bridge. Such was the support for the restoration of this major landmark that it was completed within one year.

A walk along the bridge will be the highlight of your time in Lucerne!

Walk over the lesser-known Mill Bridge (Spreuebrücke)

Built in the 16th century, the Spreuer Bridge is worth walking over.

Paintings on the Spreuerbrucke in Lucerne, Switzerland
Paintings on the Spreuerbrücke

You’ll find it further away from the lakeside next to the old mill’s water wheel. Paintings similar to the Chapel Bridge line the walk. Fire did not destroy this bridge, so you’ll be looking at the originals as you walk over it. And, it’s a part of the city that few tourists visit.

Wander through Lucerne’s Altstadt

You’ll understand why Lucerne is Switzerland’s prettiest city when you take a wander around Lucerne’s old town (Altstadt). Pass through lanes and alleys to reach delightful squares surrounded by buildings with exquisitely decorated facades. You’ll want to stop and linger to really appreciate the beauty of each building.

We’ve listed a couple of our favourite squares below.

Kornmarkt

The highlight of Kornmarkt is Lucerne’s Town Hall, one of the country’s prettiest buildings. The Town Hall was built in the early 17th century and can also be accessed from the Rathausquai alongside the Ruess River, where weekly markets are held on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Lucerne's bustling Kornmarkt
Lucerne’s bustling Kornmarkt

Weinmarkt

Weinmarkt in Lucerne, Switzerland
Weinmarkt

Originally hosting the city’s fish market, this square transitioned to become the heart of the city’s wine, spice and textile trade. One of the highlights in the square is the Fritschi Fountain, with its ornate figurines standing at its centre.

Sternenplatz

A small square is, in our opinion, one of Lucerne’s most picturesque. Stand back and gaze at the painted murals adorning each of the square’s buildings.

Murals covering the facades of buildings in Lucerne's Sternenplatz
Be amazed at the murals covering the facades of buildings in Sternenplatz

Hirschenplatz

Another charming square in the old town. The square is named after a medieval inn which stood in the heart of this square. The inn has long since disappeared, but the square still has a lot to offer the eye.

Elegant buildings in Lucerne's Hirschenplatz
Elegant buildings in Lucerne’s Hirschenplatz

Stroll the lakeside promenade

Escape the bustling old town by taking a walk along the tree-lined lakeside promenade. Take a break, sit on a bench seat and marvel at the views as majestic mountains frame Lake Lucerne. Prepare to be amazed at the magnificent scenery all around you!

Views from the lakeside promenade in Lucerrne, Switzerland
Views from the lakeside promenade

Take a turn around Lucerne’s Neustadt

From the Altstadt and lakeside promenade, stroll over the Seebrücke where the Ruess River flows into Lake Lucerne. You’ll find yourself in the Neustadt and in front of Lucerne’s Railway Station and the city’s impressive Congress and Culture Centre building.

Views of Lucerne's Altstadt from Banhnhofstrasse in the Nuestadt
Views of Lucerne’s Altstadt from Banhnhofstrasse in the Nuestadt

Stroll along Banhofstrasse, where you’ll find yourself looking across at the beautiful Altstadt and the city’s ramparts on the hills above. Further along, you’ll find another of Lucerne’s jewels, the Baroque Jesuitenkirche. Easily recognisable by its steeples, the Jesuit church was the first sacred building in Switzerland to be built in the Baroque style.

If you have time…

Walk along the old city walls

While we didn’t have the opportunity to walk the city walls and visit the four remaining towers, it was highly recommended to do so in all the recommendations we read before visiting Lucerne.

The walls, or Museggmauer as they are more commonly known, were built in the 14th century to protect the city. The towers are open to the public in the summer months and free to climb for some of the best views you’ll find over the city.

Lucerne's iconic Chapel Bridge. Lucerne is a beautiful Swiss town you must visit
Lucerne’s iconic Chapel Bridge with the city walls and tower above

The viewpoint also offers one of the closest views of the fairytale castle, Château Gutsch, which sits high on the hills overlooking Lucerne.

View of Chateau Gutsch from Lucerne's Seebrucke
View of the fairytale Chateau Gutsch from Lucerne’s Seebrücke

Make a day trip to Mount Pilatus

Mt Pilatus’ peaks are visible from Lucerne. It’s the highest and most rugged of Lucerne’s three mountains, and if you’re looking to make a day trip while staying in the city, then a trip to the peak is ideal.

There are some options to reach the peak, depending on the time of year you are visiting Lucerne, including any combination of bus, gondola, cogwheel train, train and boat.

You can find more details on visiting Mt Pilatus at this link.

In case you’re interested

We stayed in a couple of underrated northern Swiss towns on our way to Lucerne. Unless you’ve arrived on a river cruise, most people are not inclined to visit Basel. And, many visitors don’t linger in the Swiss capital of banking and finance, Zurich. Both are worthy of staying a night or two. Read more about why we loved staying in these two wonderful cities by clicking on the links below.

Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany

Our first day in Germany, and the pick for our first stop on our drive to Koblenz, where we were staying, was Mainz, a short 35-minute drive from Frankfurt Airport. We weren’t disappointed. Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany, with us.

Sitting on the left bank of the Rhine River, Mainz is the official wine capital of Germany and is surrounded by the largest wine-growing area in the country.

The city has more to offer than just wine, though. It has an old city filled with historic buildings and monuments—one of the reasons why we picked the city as our first stop.

Our top things to do in Mainz

Spend time in the Marktplatz

As with any medieval city, the Marktplatz is the hub. Mainz was no exception. It was still early in the day; however, locals had started to emerge, gathering at the cafes in the square for coffee.

Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany. Colourful buildings in the Marktplatz of Mainz in Germany
The colourful buildings in the Marktplatz

A blend of coloured and decorated gabled houses stands opposite the most distinctive building in the square, the Mainz Cathedral.

Marktbrunnen Fountain

We took a closer look at the Marktbrunnen, an ornate three-columned fountain built, like the cathedral, of red sandstone, before we visited inside the cathedral. The fountain sits to one side, in a corner of the square and was built in the 16th century.

Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain standing in the Markplatz of Mainz, Germany
Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain

The fountain was commissioned by the elector Albert of Mainz and crafted by the Mainz sculptor Hans Backoffen. The Marktbrunnen is one of the first Renaissance fountains in Germany.

The Prince-Elector had the fountain built to commemorate his successful survival of the “Peasants’ War” of 1525 and to seal the deal with the adoption of the 31 articles of grievance that the peasants demanded from their ruler.

Mainz Cathedral

St Martin, the Romanesque cathedral, is over a 1000 years old. The red sandstone building with its six distinguishing towers, including an octagonal tower, dominates the Altstadt.

Mainz Cathedral, Germany
Mainz Cathedral

Built in 975 AD, the interior of the cathedral is as impressive as the exterior. The interior has a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture and ornate tombs of prince-electors and archbishops. The small, well-manicured cloister is also accessible to the public.

The interior of Mainz Cathderal in the German city of Mainz
The cloister of Mainz Cathedral in the German city of Mainz
The pretty cloister

The cathedral also has a museum section with religious artefacts and items from the treasury.

The Gutenberg Museum

The Gutenberg Museum honours the inventor of the printing press, Johannes Gutenberg

Instead of visiting the museum, we opted to explore more of Mainz’s outdoor attractions; however, when researching things to do in Mainz, the museum was highlighted as a great place for book lovers and history enthusiasts. It has two of the 49 remaining Gutenberg Bibles, as well as a working reproduction of Gutenberg’s press.

In 1946, the city’s university, which was founded in 1477, was renamed Johannes Gutenberg University to honour the publisher.

Walk a little further to Schillerplatz

Next, we walked to another significant square, Schillerplatz. Lined with notable palaces, the square is named after the poet Friedrich Schiller, whose statue stands in the centre.

Another notable feature in the square is the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain standing in the centre of the square. The fountain is decorated with 200 quirky bronze statues celebrating the Mainz Carnival, which starts in the square on 11 November every year.

Schillerplatz in Mainz, Germany
Schillerplatz is surrounded by beautiful, noble houses with the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain in its centre

With its colourful garden beds and benches under shady trees, the square is the perfect spot to relax and take a breather when exploring the city in the summer.

Old Town (Altstadt)

Mainz’s Old Town is a great place to explore. It’s full of narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses and some lovely squares.

St Stephan’s Church

St. Stephen’s Church is located above the old town. We walked up to this Gothic church, renowned for its stunning blue stained glass windows. The nine windows, created between 1978 and 1985, depict scenes from the Old Testament and fill the space with a blue glow.

Disappointingly, the church was closed to visitors when we arrived, and we were unable to visit inside. Instead, we enjoyed some of the views over Mainz from the church’s terrace.

Mainz Rhine Promenade

After exploring the sights around the old town, we strolled to the promenade alongside the Rhine River. It’s a beautiful spot to take in the scenery and watch the river and cargo boats go by.

Our conclusion

Mainz is unquestionably a town we would have liked to have had the time to explore further. It’s a city full of history, culture, monuments and landmarks, coupled with picturesque scenery.

A visit to Mainz is a great way to start your exploration of the scenic Rhine Valley vineyards and Castle route.

In case you’re interested

We stayed for several nights in Koblenz to explore the historic city, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Read about this fascinating city through the link below.

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.

You’ll love driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route

Fresh off a morning arrival on our flight into Frankfurt, we hopped into our car and headed north. We were driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed route is divided into two parts.

Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route
The Rhine Castle route

We would drive the first half to Koblenz and stay there for a couple of days before completing the second half to Bonn. Koblenz, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers in the Upper Rhine Valley, is one of Germany’s oldest cities. The Mitterhein wine region also runs between Bingen and Bonn.

Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route

The drive from Bingen to Koblenz

Dotted with over 40 castles, the route is also part of the Rhine Valley wine region. The city of Mainz, approximately a 90-minute drive from Frankfurt, serves as the gateway to the wine region, while the Castle route begins from the town of Bingen. Bingen is a sleepy town with a lovely main street with cafes and restaurants. We stopped to have lunch there before continuing.

From Bingen onwards is a real treat for anyone wanting to drive this route. The road winds its way alongside the river while riverboats slip gently past. Along the way, there are castles and fortresses on high peaks or set lower amongst the vineyards on both sides of the river. While it isn’t practical to visit all the castles, nor are many open to the public, it was fun driving along, spotting them all. The drive between Bingen and Koblenz should only take an hour; however, to enjoy the scenery, making short stops at designated viewing points and allowing yourself a detour to a castle or two on the way, you should allow at least two to three hours.

Phililppsburg Castle in Marksburg, Rhine Castle route, Germany
The fairytale Philippsburg Castle in Marksburg on the Rhine Castle route

With so many castles and options, we strategically chose a few spots to look out for on the route.

  • Burg Reichenstein
  • Sankt Goar (Rheinfels Castle), from where you can look across to the Lorelei
  • At Boppard, we stopped to look across the river to Sterrenberg Castle
  • After Boppard spotted Marksburg Castle
  • Looked out for Stozenfels Castle just before arriving in Koblenz

A visit to Schonberg Castle

A castle that wasn’t on our list, but we couldn’t resist visiting after seeing it perched on the hillside from afar, was Schonberg Castle. A short distance off the main road in the town of Oberwesel, we wound our way up the hill to the castle’s car park.

Entrance to Schoneberg Castle
Outside Schonburg Castle walls

The castle, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, was built in the 12th century; however, there are records of a dwelling on the site in 900 AD. From the car park, it’s a couple of minutes walk to the small arched entrance into the cobbled carriage path and inside the castle walls, from where a narrower walkway continues into the castle courtyard.

Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance
Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance

The Dukes of Schonburg and their families lived in the castle from the 12th century until 1689, when much of it was destroyed by troops during the Nine Years’ War. Partially reconstructed in the late 19th century, it wasn’t until the town purchased it in 1950 that it was completely revived.

The castle is now a 4-star hotel, Burghotel Auf Schonburg, with a museum in the castle tower, which is open to the public. The castle’s gardens are, however, available for only hotel guests to roam. For others, there is a vantage point overlooking the Rhine River, giving you splendid views. The picturesque scenery from above was worth making the small detour and was one of the highlights of our drive.

View from Schonburg Castle lookout
View from Schonburg Castle lookout

There is also a small lookout before entering or after exiting the castle walls, from where there are excellent views of the grapevines of the hills of the valley behind the castle.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress in Koblenz

In Koblenz, we had anticipated taking a morning walk up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress high on the hillside over the city from the other side of the Rhine River. Unfortunately, there was no easy way to cross the river on foot.

Instead, we waited until after we returned from our day excursion to the beautiful town of Cochem, to go across by cable car to look around the fortress. The cable car ride provides fabulous views over Koblenz’s old town.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is a complex of buildings sprawling over a large area of the eastern bank. The fortress buildings are now home to the State Museum, displaying antiques and war memorabilia.

If you’re not a museum-lover, you can take a wander around the extensive fort area, savouring the views, especially from the viewing platform, which is a piece of art itself. The triangular-shaped wooden platform was originally built for a Horticultural exhibition, then repurposed and placed on the fortress’s grounds. From the platform, you get spectacular views of Koblenz, the Rhine and Moselle Rivers.

The Rhine Castle route from Koblenz to Bonn

The Rhine Castle route is determined to run from Bingen to Bonn. However, we were disappointed not to find any noteworthy castles or fortresses on the drive along the Rhine River between Koblenz and Bonn. Maybe they are well hidden from the roadside.

Our opinion

The first section of our drive, between Bingen and Koblenz, mesmerised us with the centuries-old, magnificent castles and fortresses as well as the terraced vineyards on the rolling hills on both banks of the Rhine River. The entire journey is picture-postcard worthy, and we would consider driving again at a much slower pace, making more stops and detours to visit select castles.

Note: Some castles and fortresses charge an entrance fee to visit inside.

In case you’re interested

During our journey, we stopped in the beautiful old town of Mainz, stayed in the historic city of Koblenz, which dates back to 8 BC, and from Koblenz, took a day trip to the charming town of Cochem, located along the Moselle River. Click on the links below to read more about these beautiful places in Germany.

Why you’ll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city

Rouen is just two hours drive from central Paris. Or, if like us, you prefer to meander along the quieter country roads through pretty villages and small townships surrounded by farmland, it will take closer to three hours. Read on and let us tell you why you’ll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city.

We stayed in an apartment within walking distance of the heart of the historic centre. Within five minutes of stepping outside, we were surrounded by historic half-timbered houses, the city’s iconic Notre Dame Cathedral and a multitude of cafes and restaurants. 

France was in the middle of a heatwave with the temperature at 43 degrees Celcius when we arrived but undeterred we immediately ventured out to complete a reconnaissance of the Old Town.

Few people were about, some socialising over evening aperitifs at the local cafe/bar while others took cover under the shady trees in the park outside the Musee Beaux Arts. Shops are closed and the streets are mostly deserted. We didn’t venture far finding a Thai cafe close by for a dinner before going to bed. After the long flight and spending most of the day visiting our favourite haunts in Paris before driving to Rouen we were tired. 

Cloudy skies greeted us the next morning and the temperature had dropped dramatically overnight! With rain forecast for the afternoon, we took the opportunity to fit in a bit of exploring on our brisk morning walk. The River Seine divides the city much like Paris with the city having a Right and Left Bank. The Old City is located on the Right Bank and crossing over to the Left Bank it seemed that the Left Bank mainly houses the municipal and administrative buildings. However, we noticed one distinctive building standing prominently in front of a shopping centre a short distance from the River, the Englise Saint-Sever Catholic Church.

The Right Bank is where you’ll find all the main attractions.

Notre Dame Cathedral

The Cathedral is Rouen’s pride and joy. You’ll understand why when you set eyes on it. It’s an elegant building with an intricate facade. It was cloudy when we first stood in the square to look at it. However, it was particularly stunning later when the evening sun was shining on it. Wander inside to feast your eyes on the beautiful stained glass windows which date back to 1200.  And, if you’re visiting in the summer, come back to see the colourful light and sound show projected on the facade after dark.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Rouen
Rouen’s Notre Dame Cathdral

Palais de Justice

Originally Normandy’s Parliament in the 1500s, the Palais de Justice is an impressive Gothic building with spires and gargoyles decorating its exterior. These days it serves at Rouen’s courthouse. We asked to have a look inside and a policeman graciously ushered us straight past the security by a policeman into the courtyard where we could survey the architecture in more detail. We popped into a courtroom to sit in on judgements on what we believed were petty matters being read by judges to gowned barristers/solicitors and their clients. An exciting experience and a good way to see inside one of the regal courtrooms.

Palais de Justice, Rouen, France
The beautiful exterior of the Palais de Justice. Formerly Normandy’s Parliament Building and now Rouen’s Court House

Gros Horlage

You can’t miss Gros Horlage. It’s Rouen’s High Street  The highlight is not the shopping, however. The medieval astronomical clock dating back to the 15th century is why you should take a walk down Gros Horlage. Hint: Stand under the archway and look up at the sculpture.

Gros Horlage, Rouen, Normandy
The clock in the centre of the street is the highlight of walking along Gros Horlage.

Joan of Arc

Joan of Arc plays a key role in Rouen’s history. An interactive museum is dedicated to her in the palace where she was tried. In Old Market Square you’ll find a memorial at the spot where she was burnt at the stake.

Old Market Square, Rouen
The colourful Old Market Square

Old Market Square

There is more to the Old Market Square than Joan of Arc’s memorial. We dined at Manuel’s, one of the many restaurants around the perimeter of the square serving some of Normandy’s traditional foods. The half-timber houses scattered around the Square are worth looking at as well.

Church of Saint-Maclau

Saint Maclau was the first church we came across early in our visit to Rouen. We walked up a side street from the riverfront past beautiful half-timber houses to be greeted by this beautiful church. While not as large or grand as the Notre Dame, it holds a vantage point amongst the traditional houses and the beautiful square where you can enjoy a combination of views of the exquisite exterior of the Church surrounded by unique homes.

Church of Saint-Maclou
The intricate facade of the Church of Saint Maclou. The Church is set in a square with beautiful half-timbered houses surrounding it

Places to visit outside of Rouen

The Tourist Office provided us with a couple of suggestions to see the surrounding countryside. We opted to take the scenic fruit trail drive. Private orchards on one side of the road and the River Seine meandering along on the other accompanied us. The orchards were full of apple trees used to make cider, one of the region’s specialities. The trail ends at the little town of Les Mesnil des Jumieges. We continued driving along little lanes lined with large country homes to the pretty village of Jumieges to see the Abbaye. Quite a few cyclists were stopping to look as well. There are plenty of cycling and hiking routes in the area too.

Jumieges Abbaye
Jumieges Abbaye

We continued on the road to the pretty riverside villages of Rives en Seine and Villequeres before returning to Rouen, where heavy rain accompanied us on the way. Glad we weren’t cycling!

The other recommended drive was on the other side of the River to see the thatched houses. We’ve saved that to do on another visit.

Where we stayed

Le secret de Lea is located in a quiet street within the historic centre but distant enough to be in a micro-neighbourhood with its cafe, boulangerie and other amenities. The tastefully decorated apartment was spacious and had a separate bedroom and bed space for a family of four. Private garaged parking is also available. Our host Corrine thoughtfully provided extra amenities for the comfort of her guests. The Gare de Rouen is located a few hundred metres from the apartment if you’re arriving by train.

Why you’ll fall in love with Rouen

Rouen is the capital of Normandy. It seemed nothing like other capital cities we have visited. The City is a stop on the river cruising itinerary and apart from a few cyclists setting off from the boats on self-guided tours and a couple of small tour groups by the Notre Dame it seemed that we were the only visitors in the city. Rouen. With few people about, we got the impression that every day is a weekend day in Normandy’s capital city. We think that this jewel has not been discovered by tourists yet and suggest you visit before the secret is out.

« Older posts

© 2026 Travelling Simply

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑