Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

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Lucerne is a beautiful Swiss town you must visit

We were captivated by our first visit to Lucerne during our road trip through Switzerland on the way to Italy, so we returned for another look around on a more comprehensive journey through Switzerland. Lucerne is a beautiful Swiss town you must visit.

Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s finest towns.  The city sits on a lake surrounded by majestic mountains and an old town, where you can spend hours ambling through its squares and alleyways.

A brief history of Lucerne

From a small fishing village, Lucerne grew after a monastery was established nearby in 750. It was only after a major trading route to Italy opened in the 13th century, passing through the village, that Lucerne grew in prominence.

In the early 16th century, Lucerne was the only major Swiss town to reject the Reformation and soon became a power within the Catholic religion in Switzerland.

While the rest of Switzerland thrived in industrialisation during the 19th century, Lucerne transformed itself into a major tourist destination. Grand hotels and infrastructure were built to attract discerning travellers.

While the new infrastructure was being developed, many old buildings and fortifications were destroyed to make way for the Neustadt(new city quarter). The city did preserve its 14th-century northern wall and towers. These are open to the public to visit during the summer months.

Our favourite things to do in Lucerne

Take a stroll along Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke)

Lucerne’s most famous landmark is, without doubt, the Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge). The oldest covered bridge in Europe spans the River Ruess linking the new town to the old on the right bank.

Chapel Bridge in Lucerne, Switzerland
Lucerne’s iconic Kapellbrücke

Built in 1365, the bridge was part of the city’s fortifications. One of the main features of the bridge is the paintings on the gables as you walk along the bridge. Being the only cities in Switzerland to remain Catholic and eager to maintain their faith, the city authorities commissioned paintings recounting the lives of saints as a reminder for townsfolk.

Paintings on the Chapel Bridge, Lucerne, Switzerland
Paintings on the Chapel Bridge

A fire in 1993 nearly destroyed the bridge. Such was the support for the restoration of this major landmark that it was completed within one year.

A walk along the bridge will be the highlight of your time in Lucerne!

Walk over the lesser-known Mill Bridge (Spreuebrücke)

Built in the 16th century, the Spreuer Bridge is worth walking over.

Paintings on the Spreuerbrucke in Lucerne, Switzerland
Paintings on the Spreuerbrücke

You’ll find it further away from the lakeside next to the old mill’s water wheel. Paintings similar to the Chapel Bridge line the walk. Fire did not destroy this bridge, so you’ll be looking at the originals as you walk over it. And, it’s a part of the city that few tourists visit.

Wander through Lucerne’s Altstadt

You’ll understand why Lucerne is Switzerland’s prettiest city when you take a wander around Lucerne’s old town (Altstadt). Pass through lanes and alleys to reach delightful squares surrounded by buildings with exquisitely decorated facades. You’ll want to stop and linger to really appreciate the beauty of each building.

We’ve listed a couple of our favourite squares below.

Kornmarkt

The highlight of Kornmarkt is Lucerne’s Town Hall, one of the country’s prettiest buildings. The Town Hall was built in the early 17th century and can also be accessed from the Rathausquai alongside the Ruess River, where weekly markets are held on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

Lucerne's bustling Kornmarkt
Lucerne’s bustling Kornmarkt

Weinmarkt

Weinmarkt in Lucerne, Switzerland
Weinmarkt

Originally hosting the city’s fish market, this square transitioned to become the heart of the city’s wine, spice and textile trade. One of the highlights in the square is the Fritschi Fountain, with its ornate figurines standing at its centre.

Sternenplatz

A small square is, in our opinion, one of Lucerne’s most picturesque. Stand back and gaze at the painted murals adorning each of the square’s buildings.

Murals covering the facades of buildings in Lucerne's Sternenplatz
Be amazed at the murals covering the facades of buildings in Sternenplatz

Hirschenplatz

Another charming square in the old town. The square is named after a medieval inn which stood in the heart of this square. The inn has long since disappeared, but the square still has a lot to offer the eye.

Elegant buildings in Lucerne's Hirschenplatz
Elegant buildings in Lucerne’s Hirschenplatz

Stroll the lakeside promenade

Escape the bustling old town by taking a walk along the tree-lined lakeside promenade. Take a break, sit on a bench seat and marvel at the views as majestic mountains frame Lake Lucerne. Prepare to be amazed at the magnificent scenery all around you!

Views from the lakeside promenade in Lucerrne, Switzerland
Views from the lakeside promenade

Take a turn around Lucerne’s Neustadt

From the Altstadt and lakeside promenade, stroll over the Seebrücke where the Ruess River flows into Lake Lucerne. You’ll find yourself in the Neustadt and in front of Lucerne’s Railway Station and the city’s impressive Congress and Culture Centre building.

Views of Lucerne's Altstadt from Banhnhofstrasse in the Nuestadt
Views of Lucerne’s Altstadt from Banhnhofstrasse in the Nuestadt

Stroll along Banhofstrasse, where you’ll find yourself looking across at the beautiful Altstadt and the city’s ramparts on the hills above. Further along, you’ll find another of Lucerne’s jewels, the Baroque Jesuitenkirche. Easily recognisable by its steeples, the Jesuit church was the first sacred building in Switzerland to be built in the Baroque style.

If you have time…

Walk along the old city walls

While we didn’t have the opportunity to walk the city walls and visit the four remaining towers, it was highly recommended to do so in all the recommendations we read before visiting Lucerne.

The walls, or Museggmauer as they are more commonly known, were built in the 14th century to protect the city. The towers are open to the public in the summer months and free to climb for some of the best views you’ll find over the city.

Lucerne's iconic Chapel Bridge. Lucerne is a beautiful Swiss town you must visit
Lucerne’s iconic Chapel Bridge with the city walls and tower above

The viewpoint also offers one of the closest views of the fairytale castle, Château Gutsch, which sits high on the hills overlooking Lucerne.

View of Chateau Gutsch from Lucerne's Seebrucke
View of the fairytale Chateau Gutsch from Lucerne’s Seebrücke

Make a day trip to Mount Pilatus

Mt Pilatus’ peaks are visible from Lucerne. It’s the highest and most rugged of Lucerne’s three mountains, and if you’re looking to make a day trip while staying in the city, then a trip to the peak is ideal.

There are some options to reach the peak, depending on the time of year you are visiting Lucerne, including any combination of bus, gondola, cogwheel train, train and boat.

You can find more details on visiting Mt Pilatus at this link.

In case you’re interested

We stayed in a couple of underrated northern Swiss towns on our way to Lucerne. Unless you’ve arrived on a river cruise, most people are not inclined to visit Basel. And, many visitors don’t linger in the Swiss capital of banking and finance, Zurich. Both are worthy of staying a night or two. Read more about why we loved staying in these two wonderful cities by clicking on the links below.

Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany

Our first day in Germany, and the pick for our first stop on our drive to Koblenz, where we were staying, was Mainz, a short 35-minute drive from Frankfurt Airport. We weren’t disappointed. Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany, with us.

Sitting on the left bank of the Rhine River, Mainz is the official wine capital of Germany and is surrounded by the largest wine-growing area in the country.

The city has more to offer than just wine, though. It has an old city filled with historic buildings and monuments—one of the reasons why we picked the city as our first stop.

Our top things to do in Mainz

Spend time in the Marktplatz

As with any medieval city, the Marktplatz is the hub. Mainz was no exception. It was still early in the day; however, locals had started to emerge, gathering at the cafes in the square for coffee.

Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany. Colourful buildings in the Marktplatz of Mainz in Germany
The colourful buildings in the Marktplatz

A blend of coloured and decorated gabled houses stands opposite the most distinctive building in the square, the Mainz Cathedral.

Marktbrunnen Fountain

We took a closer look at the Marktbrunnen, an ornate three-columned fountain built, like the cathedral, of red sandstone, before we visited inside the cathedral. The fountain sits to one side, in a corner of the square and was built in the 16th century.

Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain standing in the Markplatz of Mainz, Germany
Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain

The fountain was commissioned by the elector Albert of Mainz and crafted by the Mainz sculptor Hans Backoffen. The Marktbrunnen is one of the first Renaissance fountains in Germany.

The Prince-Elector had the fountain built to commemorate his successful survival of the “Peasants’ War” of 1525 and to seal the deal with the adoption of the 31 articles of grievance that the peasants demanded from their ruler.

Mainz Cathedral

St Martin, the Romanesque cathedral, is over a 1000 years old. The red sandstone building with its six distinguishing towers, including an octagonal tower, dominates the Altstadt.

Mainz Cathedral, Germany
Mainz Cathedral

Built in 975 AD, the interior of the cathedral is as impressive as the exterior. The interior has a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture and ornate tombs of prince-electors and archbishops. The small, well-manicured cloister is also accessible to the public.

The interior of Mainz Cathderal in the German city of Mainz
The cloister of Mainz Cathedral in the German city of Mainz
The pretty cloister

The cathedral also has a museum section with religious artefacts and items from the treasury.

The Gutenberg Museum

The Gutenberg Museum honours the inventor of the printing press, Johannes Gutenberg

Instead of visiting the museum, we opted to explore more of Mainz’s outdoor attractions; however, when researching things to do in Mainz, the museum was highlighted as a great place for book lovers and history enthusiasts. It has two of the 49 remaining Gutenberg Bibles, as well as a working reproduction of Gutenberg’s press.

In 1946, the city’s university, which was founded in 1477, was renamed Johannes Gutenberg University to honour the publisher.

Walk a little further to Schillerplatz

Next, we walked to another significant square, Schillerplatz. Lined with notable palaces, the square is named after the poet Friedrich Schiller, whose statue stands in the centre.

Another notable feature in the square is the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain standing in the centre of the square. The fountain is decorated with 200 quirky bronze statues celebrating the Mainz Carnival, which starts in the square on 11 November every year.

Schillerplatz in Mainz, Germany
Schillerplatz is surrounded by beautiful, noble houses with the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain in its centre

With its colourful garden beds and benches under shady trees, the square is the perfect spot to relax and take a breather when exploring the city in the summer.

Old Town (Altstadt)

Mainz’s Old Town is a great place to explore. It’s full of narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses and some lovely squares.

St Stephan’s Church

St. Stephen’s Church is located above the old town. We walked up to this Gothic church, renowned for its stunning blue stained glass windows. The nine windows, created between 1978 and 1985, depict scenes from the Old Testament and fill the space with a blue glow.

Disappointingly, the church was closed to visitors when we arrived, and we were unable to visit inside. Instead, we enjoyed some of the views over Mainz from the church’s terrace.

Mainz Rhine Promenade

After exploring the sights around the old town, we strolled to the promenade alongside the Rhine River. It’s a beautiful spot to take in the scenery and watch the river and cargo boats go by.

Our conclusion

Mainz is unquestionably a town we would have liked to have had the time to explore further. It’s a city full of history, culture, monuments and landmarks, coupled with picturesque scenery.

A visit to Mainz is a great way to start your exploration of the scenic Rhine Valley vineyards and Castle route.

In case you’re interested

We stayed for several nights in Koblenz to explore the historic city, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Read about this fascinating city through the link below.

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.

You’ll love driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route

Fresh off a morning arrival on our flight into Frankfurt, we hopped into our car and headed north. We were driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed route is divided into two parts.

Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route
The Rhine Castle route

We would drive the first half to Koblenz and stay there for a couple of days before completing the second half to Bonn. Koblenz, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers in the Upper Rhine Valley, is one of Germany’s oldest cities. The Mitterhein wine region also runs between Bingen and Bonn.

Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route

The drive from Bingen to Koblenz

Dotted with over 40 castles, the route is also part of the Rhine Valley wine region. The city of Mainz, approximately a 90-minute drive from Frankfurt, serves as the gateway to the wine region, while the Castle route begins from the town of Bingen. Bingen is a sleepy town with a lovely main street with cafes and restaurants. We stopped to have lunch there before continuing.

From Bingen onwards is a real treat for anyone wanting to drive this route. The road winds its way alongside the river while riverboats slip gently past. Along the way, there are castles and fortresses on high peaks or set lower amongst the vineyards on both sides of the river. While it isn’t practical to visit all the castles, nor are many open to the public, it was fun driving along, spotting them all. The drive between Bingen and Koblenz should only take an hour; however, to enjoy the scenery, making short stops at designated viewing points and allowing yourself a detour to a castle or two on the way, you should allow at least two to three hours.

Phililppsburg Castle in Marksburg, Rhine Castle route, Germany
The fairytale Philippsburg Castle in Marksburg on the Rhine Castle route

With so many castles and options, we strategically chose a few spots to look out for on the route.

  • Burg Reichenstein
  • Sankt Goar (Rheinfels Castle), from where you can look across to the Lorelei
  • At Boppard, we stopped to look across the river to Sterrenberg Castle
  • After Boppard spotted Marksburg Castle
  • Looked out for Stozenfels Castle just before arriving in Koblenz

A visit to Schonberg Castle

A castle that wasn’t on our list, but we couldn’t resist visiting after seeing it perched on the hillside from afar, was Schonberg Castle. A short distance off the main road in the town of Oberwesel, we wound our way up the hill to the castle’s car park.

Entrance to Schoneberg Castle
Outside Schonburg Castle walls

The castle, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, was built in the 12th century; however, there are records of a dwelling on the site in 900 AD. From the car park, it’s a couple of minutes walk to the small arched entrance into the cobbled carriage path and inside the castle walls, from where a narrower walkway continues into the castle courtyard.

Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance
Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance

The Dukes of Schonburg and their families lived in the castle from the 12th century until 1689, when much of it was destroyed by troops during the Nine Years’ War. Partially reconstructed in the late 19th century, it wasn’t until the town purchased it in 1950 that it was completely revived.

The castle is now a 4-star hotel, Burghotel Auf Schonburg, with a museum in the castle tower, which is open to the public. The castle’s gardens are, however, available for only hotel guests to roam. For others, there is a vantage point overlooking the Rhine River, giving you splendid views. The picturesque scenery from above was worth making the small detour and was one of the highlights of our drive.

View from Schonburg Castle lookout
View from Schonburg Castle lookout

There is also a small lookout before entering or after exiting the castle walls, from where there are excellent views of the grapevines of the hills of the valley behind the castle.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress in Koblenz

In Koblenz, we had anticipated taking a morning walk up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress high on the hillside over the city from the other side of the Rhine River. Unfortunately, there was no easy way to cross the river on foot.

Instead, we waited until after we returned from our day excursion to the beautiful town of Cochem, to go across by cable car to look around the fortress. The cable car ride provides fabulous views over Koblenz’s old town.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is a complex of buildings sprawling over a large area of the eastern bank. The fortress buildings are now home to the State Museum, displaying antiques and war memorabilia.

If you’re not a museum-lover, you can take a wander around the extensive fort area, savouring the views, especially from the viewing platform, which is a piece of art itself. The triangular-shaped wooden platform was originally built for a Horticultural exhibition, then repurposed and placed on the fortress’s grounds. From the platform, you get spectacular views of Koblenz, the Rhine and Moselle Rivers.

The Rhine Castle route from Koblenz to Bonn

The Rhine Castle route is determined to run from Bingen to Bonn. However, we were disappointed not to find any noteworthy castles or fortresses on the drive along the Rhine River between Koblenz and Bonn. Maybe they are well hidden from the roadside.

Our opinion

The first section of our drive, between Bingen and Koblenz, mesmerised us with the centuries-old, magnificent castles and fortresses as well as the terraced vineyards on the rolling hills on both banks of the Rhine River. The entire journey is picture-postcard worthy, and we would consider driving again at a much slower pace, making more stops and detours to visit select castles.

Note: Some castles and fortresses charge an entrance fee to visit inside.

In case you’re interested

During our journey, we stopped in the beautiful old town of Mainz, stayed in the historic city of Koblenz, which dates back to 8 BC, and from Koblenz, took a day trip to the charming town of Cochem, located along the Moselle River. Click on the links below to read more about these beautiful places in Germany.

Why you’ll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city

Rouen is just two hours drive from central Paris. Or, if like us, you prefer to meander along the quieter country roads through pretty villages and small townships surrounded by farmland, it will take closer to three hours. Read on and let us tell you why you’ll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city.

We stayed in an apartment within walking distance of the heart of the historic centre. Within five minutes of stepping outside, we were surrounded by historic half-timbered houses, the city’s iconic Notre Dame Cathedral and a multitude of cafes and restaurants. 

France was in the middle of a heatwave with the temperature at 43 degrees Celcius when we arrived but undeterred we immediately ventured out to complete a reconnaissance of the Old Town.

Few people were about, some socialising over evening aperitifs at the local cafe/bar while others took cover under the shady trees in the park outside the Musee Beaux Arts. Shops are closed and the streets are mostly deserted. We didn’t venture far finding a Thai cafe close by for a dinner before going to bed. After the long flight and spending most of the day visiting our favourite haunts in Paris before driving to Rouen we were tired. 

Cloudy skies greeted us the next morning and the temperature had dropped dramatically overnight! With rain forecast for the afternoon, we took the opportunity to fit in a bit of exploring on our brisk morning walk. The River Seine divides the city much like Paris with the city having a Right and Left Bank. The Old City is located on the Right Bank and crossing over to the Left Bank it seemed that the Left Bank mainly houses the municipal and administrative buildings. However, we noticed one distinctive building standing prominently in front of a shopping centre a short distance from the River, the Englise Saint-Sever Catholic Church.

The Right Bank is where you’ll find all the main attractions.

Notre Dame Cathedral

The Cathedral is Rouen’s pride and joy. You’ll understand why when you set eyes on it. It’s an elegant building with an intricate facade. It was cloudy when we first stood in the square to look at it. However, it was particularly stunning later when the evening sun was shining on it. Wander inside to feast your eyes on the beautiful stained glass windows which date back to 1200.  And, if you’re visiting in the summer, come back to see the colourful light and sound show projected on the facade after dark.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Rouen
Rouen’s Notre Dame Cathdral

Palais de Justice

Originally Normandy’s Parliament in the 1500s, the Palais de Justice is an impressive Gothic building with spires and gargoyles decorating its exterior. These days it serves at Rouen’s courthouse. We asked to have a look inside and a policeman graciously ushered us straight past the security by a policeman into the courtyard where we could survey the architecture in more detail. We popped into a courtroom to sit in on judgements on what we believed were petty matters being read by judges to gowned barristers/solicitors and their clients. An exciting experience and a good way to see inside one of the regal courtrooms.

Palais de Justice, Rouen, France
The beautiful exterior of the Palais de Justice. Formerly Normandy’s Parliament Building and now Rouen’s Court House

Gros Horlage

You can’t miss Gros Horlage. It’s Rouen’s High Street  The highlight is not the shopping, however. The medieval astronomical clock dating back to the 15th century is why you should take a walk down Gros Horlage. Hint: Stand under the archway and look up at the sculpture.

Gros Horlage, Rouen, Normandy
The clock in the centre of the street is the highlight of walking along Gros Horlage.

Joan of Arc

Joan of Arc plays a key role in Rouen’s history. An interactive museum is dedicated to her in the palace where she was tried. In Old Market Square you’ll find a memorial at the spot where she was burnt at the stake.

Old Market Square, Rouen
The colourful Old Market Square

Old Market Square

There is more to the Old Market Square than Joan of Arc’s memorial. We dined at Manuel’s, one of the many restaurants around the perimeter of the square serving some of Normandy’s traditional foods. The half-timber houses scattered around the Square are worth looking at as well.

Church of Saint-Maclau

Saint Maclau was the first church we came across early in our visit to Rouen. We walked up a side street from the riverfront past beautiful half-timber houses to be greeted by this beautiful church. While not as large or grand as the Notre Dame, it holds a vantage point amongst the traditional houses and the beautiful square where you can enjoy a combination of views of the exquisite exterior of the Church surrounded by unique homes.

Church of Saint-Maclou
The intricate facade of the Church of Saint Maclou. The Church is set in a square with beautiful half-timbered houses surrounding it

Places to visit outside of Rouen

The Tourist Office provided us with a couple of suggestions to see the surrounding countryside. We opted to take the scenic fruit trail drive. Private orchards on one side of the road and the River Seine meandering along on the other accompanied us. The orchards were full of apple trees used to make cider, one of the region’s specialities. The trail ends at the little town of Les Mesnil des Jumieges. We continued driving along little lanes lined with large country homes to the pretty village of Jumieges to see the Abbaye. Quite a few cyclists were stopping to look as well. There are plenty of cycling and hiking routes in the area too.

Jumieges Abbaye
Jumieges Abbaye

We continued on the road to the pretty riverside villages of Rives en Seine and Villequeres before returning to Rouen, where heavy rain accompanied us on the way. Glad we weren’t cycling!

The other recommended drive was on the other side of the River to see the thatched houses. We’ve saved that to do on another visit.

Where we stayed

Le secret de Lea is located in a quiet street within the historic centre but distant enough to be in a micro-neighbourhood with its cafe, boulangerie and other amenities. The tastefully decorated apartment was spacious and had a separate bedroom and bed space for a family of four. Private garaged parking is also available. Our host Corrine thoughtfully provided extra amenities for the comfort of her guests. The Gare de Rouen is located a few hundred metres from the apartment if you’re arriving by train.

Why you’ll fall in love with Rouen

Rouen is the capital of Normandy. It seemed nothing like other capital cities we have visited. The City is a stop on the river cruising itinerary and apart from a few cyclists setting off from the boats on self-guided tours and a couple of small tour groups by the Notre Dame it seemed that we were the only visitors in the city. Rouen. With few people about, we got the impression that every day is a weekend day in Normandy’s capital city. We think that this jewel has not been discovered by tourists yet and suggest you visit before the secret is out.

How to see more of Milan in one day

The grand Vittorio Emmanuele building stood in front of us with the magnificent Duomo to our right. Our excitement to see more of Milan through the eyes of a local was not dampened by the blistering summer sun beating down on us while we waited. After thirty minutes though we realised the host of the walking tour was not going to appear. It looked like he had joined the other Milanese to abandon the city for the summer holidays! Our other walking tour buddies were just as disappointed as we separated in different directions to fend for ourselves.

See more of Milan with a Stroll Buddy

Fast forward to our next visit. We discovered the Stroll Buddy group (formerly Global Greeter Network) and booked a day with a Greeter before leaving on our six-week road trip. Dino and his apprentice, Sandro met us outside our apartment at precisely 9:30 am.

San Bernandino alle Ossa 

Our first stop was not far from our apartment in the city centre. Dino guided us into the side chapel of the church with walls embellished with human skulls and bones. Macabre but artistic too. The bizarre idea to decorate a chapel with human remains dates back to the Middle Ages. Space was running out in the courtyard cemetery where the church now stands so it was decided to excavate the remains and store them. A church was built with a dedicated chapel for the remains to be displayed.

The artistic creations will capture your attention but remember to look up to see the amazing frescoes on the ceiling. Sandro was astonished as us. He hadn’t seen the chapel in all his years living in the city!

The chapel of skulls in San Bernandino alle Ossa 

Milan University

There’s one thing we’ve discovered on our travels. Universities are full of hidden treasures and Milan University is no exception

We started our visit with a stroll along the outer walls while Dino provided some background history.  His commentary didn’t prepare us for the stunning main courtyard just inside the entrance.

Milan University courtyard
Milan University’s beautiful entrance courtyard

The grounds of the University are unique because two courtyards further inside the University precinct hold Roman ruins: a Roman fridge for storing perishables and medicines and a large kitchen with a courtyard where wood was stored and fires lit for cooking.

Roman ruins inside Milan University grounds
Roman ruins inside Milan University grounds

The University was a hospital in its past life and there were remnants of the past visible as we walked through the university. The old hospital ward now converted into a law library left a lasting impression as we walked through to see more of the University’s stunning architecture.

San Satiro Church

Retracing our steps to the main city area, Dino pointed out San Satiro church (Santa Maria presso San Satiro) urging us to make a visit the next day when it was open. Since we were staying in the area we returned to find the nondescript facade of the building is deceptive! We’ll not give away any secrets but we strongly recommend making time in your itinerary to visit. And, look out for the illusory apse when you visit.

The apse inside San Satiro Church
The decorative apse inside San Satiro Church

The L.O.V.E. sculpture

A large marble sculpture named L.O.V.E stands in front of the Stock Exchange building in Piazza degli Affari. According to Dino, the Milanese call it  “The Finger”. Commissioned in 2008, the sculpture is known to be a statement against the fascist rule and sends a message to the financial sector which contributed to the Italian financial crisis. There is a twist to the meaning of the name. L.O.V.E stands for liberta, odio, vendetta, and eternita (freedom, hate, revenge, and eternity). How did we miss it on past visits?

The L.O.V.E. sculpture, Milan Stock Exchange
The controversial L.O.V.E. sculpture outside Milan’s Stock Exchange

Castello Sforzesco

Castello Sforzesco
The ornate entrance to Castello Sforzesco

One of Milan’s most famous landmarks is the Castel. We had strolled around the fortress and gardens before, however this visit was much more informative. Dino invited us to look closer at the detail on the walls and things we had not paid attention to on past visits.

Our Stroll Buddies, Dino and Sandro were able to provided background information and insights to so many of the sights they took us to see

Beyond the castle are shaded gardens with paths to wander along to reach the Porta Napolean at the far end. Napolean, of course, wanted to make a grand entrance whenever he visited the city!

Dino shared stories and more history of his city as we navigated the circumference outside the castle walls. By this time we were all ready for a coffee break. Princi is one of Milan’s popular coffee houses and artisanal bakeries, and would you believe it, there was one just across the road. It was a hot day so a cold coffee, shaken, stirred and served in a martini glass was enjoyed by all before Sandro took his leave. He was expected home to have lunch with his father.

Brera

One of Milan’s most chic districts is Brera. It’s home to some of Milan’s best fashion boutiques along with numerous dining venues. The district’s past has left it with a bohemian touch. However, we were not there to shop or eat but to experience the arts.

Statue of Napoleon in the entrance to Academia di Belle Arti di Brera

Housed in an old convent, Dino took us into the Academia di Belle Arti di Brera (Academy of Fine Arts). The Academy shares its space with the Pinacoteca, an exhibition space housing the works of some of Italy’s greatest artists including Bellini, Raphael and Caravaggio. A leisurely walk through both provided the opportunity to view more famous exhibits along with the artworks of current and past students. Not to mention, a chance to appreciate the building’s magnificent architecture.

The highlight: Climbing a staircase to enter the Biblioteca Braidense, one of Italy’s largest and most beautiful national libraries. The walls are lined with books, dating back to the 1600s displayed in glass cabinets. We were lost for words!

Biblioteca Braidense

The Botanical Gardens are also in Brera. While we didn’t have an opportunity to visit at the time we will be returning to explore on our next visit.

Fashion in Moscova

The city’s reputation as one of the world’s fashion capitals is apparent throughout the city through the men, women and children who proudly wear Italy’s great fashion labels. And, Moscova is the district to go to for fashion, with small boutiques and fashion houses enticing visitors to shop.

Behind a nondescript frontage and through a courtyard bistro is the Moscova District Market. It’s a large space displaying collections well-known Italian brands and their latest collections. Today entry is limited and by reservation only. We recommend reserving to have a look inside if you have the time. You might even be tempted to take home a unique piece of clothing or accessory as a memento of your visit to Milan.

Moscova District Fashion Market
Moscova District Fashion Market is not your normal market!

Eataly stores are now located in many of the world’s major cities. If you haven’t visited one before and you’re a lover of Italian food and fare, you’ll enjoy wandering through the store located in Moscova. Stop for a bite to eat before you carry on to New Milan.

Porta Nuova

Porta Nova is everything a visitor to Milan will not expect and a contrast to the older districts we walked through. Some of the older rundown areas have been transformed into green spaces and walkways and futuristic office towers built. This is the city’s financial and business district. 

Dino led us along a pathway from the piazza to Bosco Verticale (Vertical Wood) The apartment complex was nominated as the most innovative high-rise in the world in 2014. Since then, it has inspired similar concepts in high-rise building architecture worldwide. Dino provided an insight into the area’s development and past history. It allowed us to appreciate it more than we would have if we had come to see it on our own.

Bosco Verticale

A young couple stopped to hear Dino’s commentary asking him what other highlights in Milan they should visit. Without hesitation, Dino provided them with a list of the places we had visited during the morning. Yet we knew from our time with Dino though, that they will not grasp what they are looking at. It is the small things that only a local knows that has enhanced our visit to this wonderful city.

Dino bids us farewell here. He politely declined our offer to take him to lunch. His wife was waiting for him at home with his lunch ready. He reluctantly accepted the small token of appreciation that we have brought, citing that it wasn’t necessary and that he would love to show us more at another time. With a wave, he left us to retrace our footsteps back to the city centre.

Our conclusion – did we see more of Milan?

Having been to Milan before, independently and with a tour group we agreed our time with Dino was very well spent. We could have looked up these sites and researched our hearts out but the insights and stories that Dino and Sandro provided into their city proved invaluable. There is no doubt that we will be seeing more of their city with them on a future visit.

In case you are interested…

Where we stayed

On a previous visit we had found an apartment offered by Hemeras Boutique Homes through Booking.com. They had a number of apartments throughout the city. Our apartment was two streets from the Cathedral and because of its proximity to all the main attractions, we were keen to return. We contacted them directly to enquire if they had the same apartment available. Unfortunately it was not, offering us another apartment in the same complex at a discount which we gladly accepted.

Where we ate

The precinct around via Paola da Cannobio where we stayed had numerous local eateries to choose from. After a day of wandering around the city it was pleasant to spend a relaxed summer evening dining where the locals enjoyed their evening meals.

Where we shopped

Milan is a fashion capital and if you’re wanting to take home a fashion piece , we’ll let you in on a secret place to shop. Elegant Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle offers designer and exclusive boutique shopping and the stores around the Duomo offer a choice of high street fashion. However, if you’ve got time and would like an Italian creation, walk the short distance to and along Corso Venezia. Here you’ll find our favourite outlet store, Matias. It’s a treasure trove of men’s and women’s fashion at reasonable prices.

Want to do something outside of the city?

Take a day trip to Lake Como one hour north of Milan. It’s easily accessible by rail, bus or car. If you have a car, you can take a slow drive winding your way around the lake where you’ll pass by beautiful lakefront villages to vibrant Bellagio. If you arrive in Como by bus or rail, indulge in hopping from town to town on the ferries which regularly criss-cross across the Lake.

Want to see more of Italy?

Read about some of our finds:

Need more info or suggestions on what to do in Milan and beyond?

Feel free to ask away in the comments below or email us at info@travellingsimply.com.

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