Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: France

Discover the Loire Valley

Discover the beautiful chateaus and little villages of the Loire Valley

09/08/2022 / / 0 Comments

On this trip, we decided to stay in a smaller town to continue to discover the Loire Valley. We stayed in the larger city of Tours on a previous visit because it is central and provided easy access to both the southwest and south-eastern parts of the valley. Our stay in Chinon exceeded our expectations ensuring we were in the heart of the Valley.

Discover the Loire Valley

We’ve put together some of our highlights below without giving too much away (we want you to discover the history and beauty for yourselves). However, if you’d like more information or clarification on any of the below or our experiences, please feel free to contact us or ask us in the comments section below.

Chinon

We stayed in Chinon for an authentic Loire  Valley experience and found it has all that and more. The city is small enough to be easily walked and large enough to provide plenty of accommodation and dining options when you’ve had a long day visiting the attractions in the surrounding countryside. Remember to save a day to explore Chinon’s cobblestone alleyways and streets too. The town has much to offer.

And, be sure to check with the Tourist Office in the centre of town for any local events that may be happening while you’re in town. We were lucky to be there and attend an outdoor jazz night which was being held on the banks of the river one evening. 

Chateau de Chinon

The Chateau de Chinon (the Fortress) sits high above the town. It looks down on you wherever you are in the town. It’s easily accessible by a lift in the town’s main parking area or, if you prefer the experience of taking the old route, there’s a medieval cobbled pathway and steps in the centre of town. The original castle dates back to the 10th century but it was extended and became a fortress in 1154 when Henry II took residence. For the French, the fortress played an important part in the country’s history, the fortress is where Joan of Arc met with King Charles VII and persuaded him the give her an army to liberate Orleans in the Hundred Years’ War. Today the most prominent part of the fortress is the clock tower and the fortress walls. 

Church of Saint Etienne

Constructed between 1460 and 1490, we loved its Gothic facade. Pop you inside and have a look at the stained glass windows which tell stories of the city’s history.

Stroll on Rue Rabelais and Rue Voltaire

Take a stroll along this pedestrian-only street and look up at the medieval houses that line the street. It’s also where you’ll find the best shopping, restaurants, bars and cafes. There are more medieval homes along Rue Voltairen including the Red House that are worth looking at.

Chapelle de Radegonde

Tucked away on the hillside above Chinon Old Town is Chappelle de Radegonde It’s a pleasant walking trail which you can enter quite close to the Fortress, with panoramic views over Chinon and beyond, small vineyards and cave dwellings along the way. The 12th-century chapel lay in ruin for many years before being gradually restored. Unfortunately for us, the chapel wasn’t open when we passed by in the early morning. However, we found quite a few cave dwellings along the trail which are slowly being restored too.

Church of Sait Marurice and Haute Saint Maurice Place

We were fortunate to stay in an apartment next door to this Church. Low key with a pretty courtyard in front, the Church is renowned for its beautiful organ. One of the parishioners who welcomed visitors at the front door mentioned that the organ was undergoing maintenance. Whichever way, we were treated to melodic organ music every evening during our stay.

M Plouzeau Wine Caves

Set into the rock at the base of the Fortress are the M Plouzeau Caves. The caves were created as a result of the stone quarried to build the fortress. Today, the cool natural climate of the caves houses the wines of Chinon’s well-known wineries. It’s open for tastings and a nice spend a couple of hours on a hot summer day.

Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau

A short drive from Chinon you’ll find the sandstone villages of Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau. Both towns are situated along the Loire River and blend into each other so it’s hard to avoid visiting one and not the other. 

Candes Saint Martin has a medieval path which you can follow leading to an open space surrounded by vineyards which provide panoramic views over the immediate countryside. 

Montsoreau’s highlight is its chateau, Chateau de la Dame de Montsoreau. Take a moment to enjoy the street filled with sandstone homes and the Town Hall in the adjoining street.

Both towns are listed among the prettiest villages in the area. We found them to be unremarkable. We researched before we visited.  Maybe we missed something.

Fontevraud Abbaye

The village of Fontevrand l’Abbaye, a little further from Montsoreau was bustling with visitors when we arrived. Most were visiting the 10th-century Abbey and monastery. The village has some pretty little side streets and alleys and a lovely courtyard in front of the Abbaye entrance.

Saumur

We stopped in Saumur on our drive to Chinon from Brittany. You can drive there quite easily from Chinon on the main toll road but we recommend you take the scenic route on the country roads along the Loire and Vence Rivers enjoying the scenery as you go.

The main reason for our stop was to see the Chateau de Saumur. Perched high on the hill overlooking the city, it’s hard not to miss. The chateau started out as a fortress in the 900s and was converted to a chateau in the 1400s. You can visit inside. The panoramic views from the grounds of the Chateau are more than worth the visit. 

Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau 

A stunning turreted chateau situated in the heart of the town and surrounded by lush greenery on park-like grounds. The castle’s point of difference is climbing the stairway in the middle of the castle with views down to the grand entrance and bridge which you have crossed. Amble through the quarters to see how life was lived in Chateau’s heyday.

Stroll the grounds and around the ponds after you visit inside and make sure you walk through the town afterwards. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to have a bite to eat and drink. 

Chateau de Langeais

Chateau de Langeais looms grandly over the small township when you arrive in the city of Langeais. It’s very much part of the township.. If you’re arriving in the summer months as we did, you will be greeted with aby a dainty flower-filled street leading to the castle complete with a drawbridge.

You will be able to visit the Castle and its gardens at leisure as it’s not high on the tourist trail. All the more reason to stop by, even if it’s for a peek from the outside.

Chateau d’’Usse

We were driving along a quiet country road along the edge of the forest on one side and the Loire River on the other and suddenly the chateau known locally as the Sleeping Beauty castle appeared. Perched above the roadside complete with a grand entrance over an arched bridge, towers and manicured gardens it’s a regal chateau from all aspects.

Chateau Villandry

One of the jewels of the Loire Valley and our favourite in this part of the Valley. One of the region’s more formal chateaus it emanates an air of opulence. The visit inside provides a glimpse of how the other half lived and a walk through the gardens is delightful, from the carefully manicured hedges to the symmetrical vegetable gardens and terraced areas.

Chateau Villandry

Chateau  d’Amboise

We took the drive from Chinon to  Amboise on the Chateau Trail. It’s the furthest away from Chinon. Amboise is popular on the trail with visitors opting to stay and come from near and far. It was the busiest of the chateau we visited. When we arrived the whole of the historic town surrounding the Chateau was buzzing.

There is no doubt you will see it from the road as you drive into the city. It holds a commanding and strategic position set high on the hill within the historic centre. It’s worth walking along the riverside to take in the view of the Chateau from the riverside before going closer. 

Where we stayed

We stayed in an apartment, Nature and Chateaux in the centre of the historic centre in Chinon. Well appointed and decorated in period furniture, The apartment was well located in the heart of the old town and within walking distance of all the sights and eateries. Our apartment had views up to the fortress and along the streets of the Old Town.

Hint: Don’t be tempted to take the cheaper option and stay on the other side of the river. The best part of staying in the Old Town is being part of the local scene at the end of the day and early morning when there are few or no other tourists around.

Dining options in Chinon

We enjoyed meals at several restaurants in the heart of Chinon:

  1. Jean of France Restaurant in the main square, Place de General de Gaulle.
  2. La Table de Jeanne on Re Voltaire and a stone’s throw from our apartment, Nature & Chateaux.
  3. Les Saveurs d’Italie, in Place de General de Gaulle

And, if you’re looking for a quality croissant or pastry, drop into the patisserie in Place Mirabeau. Be prepared to join the queue.

Our thoughts and recommendations

We loved our stay in Tours on a previous visit. Choosing to stay in Chinon provided us with the opportunity to see and do more while experiencing staying in a small medieval town. All villages and chateaus were easily accessible without travelling long distances and allowed us to linger where we wanted.

It’s easy to try and fit in visits inside lots of castles. We recommend choosing one or two to truly appreciate them. We compare visiting too many castles to visiting too many museums. After a while, you forget what was so special about each one. Save one or two to look forward to on your next visit.

For those who love cycling, the Loire Valley is very conducive to cycling with scenic cycling trails between villages, towns and chateaus. Villages, towns, chateaus and accommodation around the Valley provide cyclist-friendly facilities.

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Why you'll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city

Why you’ll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city

27/07/2022 / / 1 Comment

Rouen is just two hours drive from central Paris. Or, if like us, you prefer to meander along the quieter country roads through pretty villages and small townships surrounded by farmland, it will take closer to three hours. Read on and let us tell you why you’ll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city.

We stayed in an apartment within walking distance of the heart of the historic centre. Within five minutes of stepping outside, we were surrounded by historic half-timbered houses, the city’s iconic Notre Dame Cathedral and a multitude of cafes and restaurants. 

France was in the middle of a heatwave with the temperature at 43 degrees Celcius when we arrived but undeterred we immediately ventured out to complete a reconnaissance of the Old Town.

Few people were about, some socialising over evening aperitifs at the local cafe/bar while others took cover under the shady trees in the park outside the Musee Beaux Arts. Shops are closed and the streets are mostly deserted. We didn’t venture far finding a Thai cafe close by for a dinner before going to bed. After the long flight and spending most of the day visiting our favourite haunts in Paris before driving to Rouen we were tired. 

Cloudy skies greeted us the next morning and the temperature had dropped dramatically overnight! With rain forecast for the afternoon, we took the opportunity to fit in a bit of exploring on our brisk morning walk. The River Seine divides the city much like Paris with the city having a Right and Left Bank. The Old City is located on the Right Bank and crossing over to the Left Bank it seemed that the Left Bank mainly houses the municipal and administrative buildings. However, we noticed one distinctive building standing prominently in front of a shopping centre a short distance from the River, the Englise Saint-Sever Catholic Church.

The Right Bank is where you’ll find all the main attractions.

Notre Dame Cathedral

The Cathedral is Rouen’s pride and joy. You’ll understand why when you set eyes on it. It’s an elegant building with an intricate facade. It was cloudy when we first stood in the square to look at it. However, it was particularly stunning later when the evening sun was shining on it. Wander inside to feast your eyes on the beautiful stained glass windows which date back to 1200.  And, if you’re visiting in the summer, come back to see the colourful light and sound show projected on the facade after dark.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Rouen
Rouen’s Notre Dame Cathdral

Palais de Justice

Originally Normandy’s Parliament in the 1500s, the Palais de Justice is an impressive Gothic building with spires and gargoyles decorating its exterior. These days it serves at Rouen’s courthouse. We asked to have a look inside and a policeman graciously ushered us straight past the security by a policeman into the courtyard where we could survey the architecture in more detail. We popped into a courtroom to sit in on judgements on what we believed were petty matters being read by judges to gowned barristers/solicitors and their clients. An exciting experience and a good way to see inside one of the regal courtrooms.

Palais de Justice, Rouen, France
The beautiful exterior of the Palais de Justice. Formerly Normandy’s Parliament Building and now Rouen’s Court House

Gros Horlage

You can’t miss Gros Horlage. It’s Rouen’s High Street  The highlight is not the shopping, however. The medieval astronomical clock dating back to the 15th century is why you should take a walk down Gros Horlage. Hint: Stand under the archway and look up at the sculpture.

Gros Horlage, Rouen, Normandy
The clock in the centre of the street is the highlight of walking along Gros Horlage.

Joan of Arc

Joan of Arc plays a key role in Rouen’s history. An interactive museum is dedicated to her in the palace where she was tried. In Old Market Square you’ll find a memorial at the spot where she was burnt at the stake.

Old Market Square, Rouen
The colourful Old Market Square

Old Market Square

There is more to the Old Market Square than Joan of Arc’s memorial. We dined at Manuel’s, one of the many restaurants around the perimeter of the square serving some of Normandy’s traditional foods. The half-timber houses scattered around the Square are worth looking at as well.

Church of Saint-Maclau

Saint Maclau was the first church we came across early in our visit to Rouen. We walked up a side street from the riverfront past beautiful half-timber houses to be greeted by this beautiful church. While not as large or grand as the Notre Dame, it holds a vantage point amongst the traditional houses and the beautiful square where you can enjoy a combination of views of the exquisite exterior of the Church surrounded by unique homes.

Church of Saint-Maclou
The intricate facade of the Church of Saint Maclou. The Church is set in a square with beautiful half-timbered houses surrounding it

Places to visit outside of Rouen

The Tourist Office provided us with a couple of suggestions to see the surrounding countryside. We opted to take the scenic fruit trail drive. Private orchards on one side of the road and the River Seine meandering along on the other accompanied us. The orchards were full of apple trees used to make cider, one of the region’s specialities. The trail ends at the little town of Les Mesnil des Jumieges. We continued driving along little lanes lined with large country homes to the pretty village of Jumieges to see the Abbaye. Quite a few cyclists were stopping to look as well. There are plenty of cycling and hiking routes in the area too.

Jumieges Abbaye
Jumieges Abbaye

We continued on the road to the pretty riverside villages of Rives en Seine and Villequeres before returning to Rouen, where heavy rain accompanied us on the way. Glad we weren’t cycling!

The other recommended drive was on the other side of the River to see the thatched houses. We’ve saved that to do on another visit.

Where we stayed

Le secret de Lea is located in a quiet street within the historic centre but distant enough to be in a micro-neighbourhood with its cafe, boulangerie and other amenities. The tastefully decorated apartment was spacious and had a separate bedroom and bed space for a family of four. Private garaged parking is also available. Our host Corrine thoughtfully provided extra amenities for the comfort of her guests. The Gare de Rouen is located a few hundred metres from the apartment if you’re arriving by train.

Why you’ll fall in love with Rouen

Rouen is the capital of Normandy. It seemed nothing like other capital cities we have visited. The City is a stop on the river cruising itinerary and apart from a few cyclists setting off from the boats on self-guided tours and a couple of small tour groups by the Notre Dame it seemed that we were the only visitors in the city. Rouen. With few people about, we got the impression that every day is a weekend day in Normandy’s capital city. We think that this jewel has not been discovered by tourists yet and suggest you visit before the secret is out.

A secret village in Paris

28/07/2019 / / 5 Comments

Our accommodation is a little away from the centre of Paris on this visit, across the street from St Paul Village. It is within walking distance to all the iconic landmarks and gives us an opportunity to pretend to be Parisians and be tourists.

There is another village tucked away from the visitor’s gaze, Butte Bergeyre.

We set off early on a Saturday morning to find it. The streets are relatively empty apart from a few walkers like us getting an early start to the day. The city is quietly awakening.

A tourist stops us at the Place de Bastille to ask us whe Eiffel Tower is. It’s about an hour easy stroll. He decides it is too far to walk there. We hope he makes the effort to see it at some point in his visit!

Place de la Republique

Place de la Republique in the early morning light

Through Place de Republique and up the slight incline we walk taking in the change in scenery. Shop fronts are covered with grafitti covered roller doors so we can only imagine what is behind.

We pass by crowded clubs where patrons have spilled onto the street clasping onto the remnants of the night before. They are peacefully chatting and no one appears overly rowdy or intoxicated as they make way for us to pass by.

A little further on, the shop signs are written in Chinese. We are in Paris’ Chinatown district. The streets are still deserted, but we spot a couple of Chinese matrons taking their morning walk too.

Looking about us as we reach the top of the street, we notice that the atmosphere has once again changed. A boulangerie is opening up and also the local grocery store, large apartment building line Rue Mannin the street by the park which we have come to find.

Joggers run past us and the inhabitants of the area are out walking their dogs. We are looking for the steps at 21 Rue Mannin which are supposed to take us up to our destination.

Is it because we are so busy looking at everything else around us, or the fact that the steps are not obvious nor signposted that we walk straight past them? Or, that this is why Butte Bergeyre is a secret little spot.

We backtrack a little and climb the concrete steps to be greeted with narrow and empty cobblestoned streets lined with villas. Some are covered in ivy and others have their street frontage lined with flower pots. Not a soul is in sight as we quietly pick our way through the streets conscious of being the intruders in this haven for a select group of Parisians.

Butte Bergeyre

One of the villas in Butte Bergeyre

It is not hard to find the spot we have come searching for. At the far end of the small village we come to a well cultivated communal garden and the village vineyard which produces up to 100 bottles of Pinot Gris very year.

Butte Bergeyre

The pretty communal garden

We sit down on the perfectly positioned park bench and look out over the grapevines at the scenic view over Paris and the Sacre Couer.

Sacre Couer

Sacre Couer from the bench at the end of the village

How we got there – Butte Bergeyre is located in the 19th arrondissement. We walked there from Marais in the 4th arrondissement taking approximately 1 hour to get there, mostly because we were stopping along the way to observe our surroundings; take photos; and give a directions.

Another thing. On our way back, we also visited Cimitiere Pere Lachaise located in the 20th arrondissement. The beautiful garden cemetery is a tranquil sanctuary with rues of ornate tombs including Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison and Chopin.

Toast the New Year in with Champagne!

28/12/2018 / / 0 Comments

The year is drawing to a close and we feel a sense of satisfaction for accomplishing our planned travel goals with a few unplanned journeys thrown in.

As we prepare to toast in a New Year, memories of a few special days in the Champagne region of France come to mind.

After a few days of seeing the city through Parisienne eyes and wandering the rues and boulevards of Paris, we collected our car to begin our road trip.

First stop is the city of Reims. The unofficial capital of the Champagne region in the northeast of France is the perfect place to base ourselves for a day or two to explore the region.

Reims is not only the centre of the Champagne. It is home to some architectural wonders, including the imposing Notre Dame Cathedral (where French kings came to be coronated), the beautiful City Hall, the Basilica St Remi and many admirable squares.

  • Reims Town Hall
    Reims Town Hall
  • The Basilica

Many of the regions Champagne houses including Taittinger and Mumm are headquartered in Reims and offer tastings at their cellar doors. Their houses are accessed through grand entrances and beautifully manicured gardens. An indication of the high esteem the French hold for champagne.

  • champagne-house

After admiring the city, we spend a couple of days exploring further afield.

Day 1 is a short 25km drive to Epernay, the home of the world’s highly acclaimed champagne houses.

  • Avenue de Champagne

On arrival, we find the streets deserted and not teeming with tourists as we had expected at the height of the European summer. It is lunchtime and everything apart from eating establishments are closed for lunch.

The Avenue de Champagne is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful streets we stroll along. Even more stunning when you have the street to yourself. We wander in and out of the grand champagne houses amidst beautiful grounds and gardens. These are the best champagne producers in the world!

  • Moet and Chandon
  • Moet and Chandon gardens
    The beautiful grounds of Moet and Chandon

We are disappointed at our first stop, the famous house of Moet and Chandon. The cellars are closed for refurbishment until after summer. We are directed a little further up the road to the House of Mercier. A partner of Moet and Chandon and owned by the LVMH group of companies, Mercier champagne is the most popular champagne in France. Eugene Mercier established his champagne house with the intention of making champagne readily available and affordable to all so that it was not only consumed for a special event but so it would become part of everyday occasions. The tour of the underground caves (18km long), on a laser-guided autonomous tram, provided an insight into champagne production, the different stages of the ageing process along with an added surprise – the remarkable basal reliefs that decorated the walls of the underground caves.

  • ageing wine
    The ageing process – inside the caves
  • mercier-tasting
  • champagne-barrel
    The huge champagne barrel which was carted through the streets of Paris to be displayed at the Paris Exhibition in 1889

Of course, the tour would not be complete with a tasting. We enjoyed tasting the “wine for the people” complete with a lesson on how to distinguish between the different varieties. Though not connoisseurs, and now having tasted both Moet and Mercier champagnes, we agreed, both were not dissimilar!

The day ended with a leisurely drive back to Reims through the vineyards around Verzenay.

Day 2 is a beautiful summer day to take a slow 30-minute drive along the backroads among grapevines and vineyards to Hautvillers, home of another vintage champagne, Dom Perignon. The roads are quiet and we wonder why we have the roads to ourselves, there is not another vehicle in sight. It appears that everyone else is in a hurry and prefers to take the motorway.

Dom Pérignon (1638–1715) was a monk and cellar master at the Benedictine abbey in Hautvillers, a quaint French village. His tomb is in the little Abbey and remains devoid of tourist traffic.

We wander through the village and along the narrow lanes to find picnic grounds at the top of the hill. The views over vineyards and down to the little village of Cumieres and the aqua waters of the River Marne are breathtaking. This is heaven.

  • France-valley
    Looking down the hill to Cumieres from Hautvillers

It is decided, we drive back to Reims via Cumieres on roads set amongst the vineyards and the gently sloping countryside through small champagne villages. The perfect end to a perfect day.

Our road trip had just started and we continued our journey through Burgundy, Provence, Bordeaux and the other wine producing regions of France. However, we will cherish our few days in Champagne.

If you are planning a visit to Paris and have a couple of spare days, take a short sojourn in the Champagne region, you will not regret it.

P.S.  A short champagne lesson:

Brut – 40% pinot noir, 45% another white wine, 15% Chardonnay, contains 9% sugar. Brut is aged for 2 years and is then ready to drink. It should not be kept for more than 3 years.

Rose – has red wine added.

Demi-Sec is much sweeter with up to 40% more sugar. It is a dessert wine.

Brut Reserve has more reserve wine added and the taste can change from year to year depending on the reserve added.

No year on the bottle – no vintage!

  • Mercier chanpagne tasting

How to see more of Paris for free

14/07/2018 / / 3 Comments

Pascal joined us at our pre-arranged meeting place right on time.

We had arrived a little earlier which gave us time to relax on the steps of the Pantheon before meeting Pascal in the lobby of City Hall. It gave us time to catch our breath after arriving in Paris earlier in the morning.

Unable to check into our accommodation until later in the day, we had decided to make the most of the time in the city by seeing part of the city through the eyes of a local Greeter.

Pascal had a wonderful afternoon of sightseeing arranged for us. There was no sign of the Eiffel Tower or Notre Dame in sight. Instead, we padded along the backstreets of the 5th District and Sorbonne, ducking into gateways and courtyards to have a look at the real life of Paris. Pascal led us off the beaten path into the spectacular buildings such as an abbey with its breathtaking interior which is now a school. How fortunate and inspiring for the lucky scholars who have the privilege to learn in this environment!

  • school in paris
    The beautiful school courtyard

We converse as we walk. Pascal provides enough historical background to encourage questions. He is knowledgeable and keeps us interested. We share tidbits of our lives with each other.

Pascal had put thought into planning our afternoon. It was tailormade for us.

The finale for the day reminded us of how much time Pascal had taken to make our Greeter tour unique. In earlier correspondence, he had questioned our interests and tactfully asked about our work and I had mentioned that He worked in the legal field.

It was getting late as Pascal hurried us through the gates of the courthouse, through security to wander through the corridors and halls of this amazing building.

  • corridors of paris courthouse
    The corridors of the courthouse

Leading us up the rather grand staircase to the first floor we steal quietly into a courtroom session.

There is more. We follow Pascal up another flight of stairs arriving at the rooms of the Law Society. These rooms are not open to the public, however, Pascal explains that He has an interest in the law and the office staff happily oblige and show us around.

The highlight, entering the Grand Office of the President! Such grandeur and history. It was an unexpected treat.

  • law-society
    The boardroom of the Law Society

And so, it is a tired and weary but extremely happy couple of simple travellers who thank Pascal. He reluctantly accepts our gift as a token of our appreciation for his time and thoughtfulness. He reminds us that he is going away for a couple of weeks and will be back in Paris well before we arrive back in Paris after our driving holiday. There is so much more to see! And, that doesn’t include the popular tourist attractions!

  • arches

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