Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

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You must include fascinating Zurich on your Swiss itinerary

The Swiss city of Zurich is renowned for being home to numerous banks and financial institutions. Being a global financial centre, this often deters travellers from spending time in the city. However, that should not prevent you from visiting the city. We made a point of staying in the city during our visit to Switzerland to explore what it had to offer. Read about why you must include fascinating Zurich on your Swiss itinerary.

A brief history of Zurich

Inhabited for over 2,000 years, the Romans founded the town of Zurich (originally called Turicum) in 15BC. It was the perfect location to oversee trade passing through the Alps.

The city grew into a market town in the 11th and 12th centuries, gaining further popularity with the construction of the Fraumünster, a convent catering to aristocratic women. It attracted women from throughout Europe.

It was only at the end of the 19th century that the establishment of key banks in Zurich led to the city’s emergence as a major financial hub. The city previously known as the home of nuns and monks became home to bankers.

Why you must visit Zurich

The city’s long and diverse past makes it a fascinating place to visit. There is plenty to see and do. Set aside at least two days to explore the old town and enjoy the beautiful sights.

Our favourite things to do in Zurich

Visit Zurich’s Altstadt

Spanning both sides of the Limmat River, Zurich’s Altstadt is a warren of cobblestoned streets and alleyways to explore.

Grossmünster

Zurich's Grossmunster
The twin steeples of the Grossmunster

Standing proudly on the right bank of the Limmat is Zurich’s major landmark, the Grossmünster. The Grossmünster, a former monastery, is a pivotal site in the history of the Swiss Reformation. Take a look inside; the stained glass windows are particularly striking. For a price, you can also go up to the top of the tower to enjoy views over the Altstadt and across Lake Zurich.

Fraumünster

Cross over the historic Münsterbrucke after visiting the Grossmünster to visit another of Zurich’s iconic churches, the Kirche Fraumünster. The present church dates from 1250 and was built on the site of an abbey, which was founded in 853. It is this old abbey which first served as the convent for aristocratic women. The convent was closed at the Swiss Reformation, and the old abbey crypt lying beneath the church can be visited.

Why you must include fascinating Zurich on your Swiss itinerary.
Views of the Fraumunster in Zurich from the Munsterbrucke
Views from the Munsterbrücke of the Fraumünster and St Peter’s Church in Zurich

St Peter’s Church

The clock face of St Peter's Church stands out on the left bank of Zurich's Altstadt
The clock face of St Peter’s Church stands out on the left bank of Zurich’s Altstadt

While not as prominent as the Fraumünster or the Grossmünster, St. Peter’s Church is the city’s oldest church and features the largest church clock face. St Peter’s Church was built in the 9th century. Look closely at the clock face to see how it differs from most clock faces. We enjoyed wandering the charming streets around the church.

Stroll along Bahnhofstrasse and Paradeplatz

While on the left bank, take a stroll along Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s high-end shopping street, which is full of exclusive stores. The street runs for nearly 1.5km from the Altstadt to the lakefront.

Zurich's Paradeplatz where the city's heart beats
Zurich’s Paradeplatz, where the city’s heart beats

Paradeplatz is at the heart of the Bahnhofstrasse. It’s a major tram junction. Stand back and watch the trams criss-crossing the square. The square rose in importance when major banks set up their headquarters there.

Get off the beaten track in Schipfe

The cobblestone streets of Schipfe in Zurich
The quiet cobblestone streets of Schipfe are a delight to wander around

Schipfe is one of the lesser-visited areas of the Altstadt. Sitting on the Limmat River beneath Lindenhof, Schipfe is a quiet residential area, home to beautiful cobbled streets, charming homes and shops.

Take in the views from Lindenhof

Views from Lindenhof in Zurich
Views from Lindenhof

Lindenhof, one of Zurich’s most historic spots, is the perfect place to enjoy a little tranquillity and look out over the city. The hill originally housed a Roman settlement and a castle. Today, it’s a peaceful park offering a wonderful view of the Limmat, Grossmünster, and the Old Town.

Explore Niederdorf

The squares and alleyways of Niederdorf in Zurich are wonderful to explore
The squares and alleyways of Niederdorf in Zurich are wonderful to explore

On the Limmat River’s right bank, Niederdorf is the area where the old meets the new. The Altstadt melts into modern Zurich. The area is a mix of historic guild houses, boutiques, cafes and squares along winding alleyways. As night falls, it becomes vibrant as restaurants and bars open their doors.

Visit the Landesmuseum

Next to Zurich’s main railway station is the Landesmuseum, Switzerland’s National Museum. The museum showcases Switzerland’s history, from its early days to the present.

If, like us, you’re not interested in museums, the courtyard of the museum complex is still worth stepping into. Stand back and be prepared to be amazed by the fairytale castle, which was built in 1898.

The courtyard of the Zurich's Landesmuseum lit up for the Radfunk.fm Festival
The courtyard of the Landesmuseum lit up for the Rundfunk.fm Festival

If you’re visiting Zurich in the summer months from mid-July to early September, you’ll find the courtyard transformed for the annual Rundfunk.fm radio and music festival. The festival showcases local, national and international DJs and music.

Stroll the shores of Lake Zurich

With the magnificent Alps as a backdrop, there is no better way to relax than taking a stroll along the promenade and paths on either side of Lake Zurich. Access is steps away from the heart of the city.

Burkliplatz

The Ganymed sculture on Burkliterrasse in Burliplatz, Zurich, Switzerland
The Ganymede sculpture on Burkliterrasse in Burkliplat,z from which you’re guaranteed spectacular views over Lake Zurich and beyond

A good place to start is at Burkliplatz, next to Quaibrücke, which links the two sides of the lake where the Limmat River emerges from the lake. Admire the bronze Ganymede Sculpture and gaze out over the lake at the stunning views of the snow-clad mountains on the horizon. Burkliplatz is known as Zurich’s “Front Row Seat by the Lake”.

Chinese Garden

A walk along Utoquai will find you at the beautiful Chinagarten. Gifted to Zurich by its sister city, Kunming, the garden is noted as one of the highest-ranking gardens outside of China. The garden was gifted in appreciation for the scientific and technical expertise Zurich provided to enhance Kunming’s drinking water and drainage systems.

Zurich Yacht Club and Arboretum

Views over Lake Zurich
Views over Lake Zurich from the Yacht Club

Follow General Guisan-Quai on the opposite side of the lake, and you’ll find the Zurich Yacht Club and the Arboretum, a botanical park open to the public. It’s a serene part of the city to retreat to, offering a peaceful escape from the city.

Zurich’s Theatre Spektakel

Further along the shores from the Arboretum, you’ll find Landiweise, another picturesque spot on Lake Zurich. The green open space is the venue of the annual Theatre Spektakel, an international arts festival that has been running since 1980. The festival takes place over two weeks in August.

Amble along the banks of the Limmat River

Views from the Limmat River promenade in Zurich
Views from the Limmat River promenade

Whether you’re looking at it from Lindenhof above or its mouth at Quaibrücke, the Limmat River is obviously the heart of Zurich. Ambling along the Limmat is an opportunity to feel the real Zurich. Admire the breathtaking city views, and in the summer, join the locals by stopping off at Unterer Lettten or Oberer Letten swimming facilities.

Take a train ride to the top of Uetliberg Mountain

Have an afternoon free? One of the best views of the city, the lake and the surrounding countryside is from Uetliberg Mountain.

Views over Zurich from Uetliburg mountain
Views over Zurich from Uetliberg mountain

Uetliberg is just a 20-minute train ride from Zurich’s main train station. The train will take you straight to the summit. From there, it’s just a short walk to the viewpoint to enjoy the spectacular views.

Our opinion

With the beautiful Swiss Alps as a backdrop, Zurich is more than just a banking and financial hub. Switzerland’s largest city is a vibrant and lively city ready to welcome visitors. As the centre for banking and finance, the city boasts citizens from all over the world, adding to the city’s unique culture.

We suggested setting aside 2-3 full days to fully experience all that the fascinating city of Zurich has to offer.

Where we stayed

We had the pleasure of staying in a lovely local neighbourhood near Niederdorf on the right bank.

EMA House Services Apartments in Unterstrasse is a 10-minute walk from Zurich’s Altstadt. The apartment was large and very comfortable.

In case you’re interested

Our travels have taken us to other towns and cities in Switzerland, which we believe are worth visiting. Please take a look at another of our recommendations below.

Visit Basel, a Swiss treasure that you must see

A short time in Switzerland, making our way to Italy by road, found us wanting to see more of one of the most picturesque countries in the world. Basel was our first stop on our comprehensive road tour of the country. Be sure to visit Basel, a Swiss treasure that you must see.

Why you should visit Basel

Basel, located in northwestern Switzerland, is conveniently situated near the borders of both France and Germany. Known as the art and culture capital of Switzerland, unless one embarks on a river cruise along the mighty Rhine River, travellers do not often make the city a priority for a visit. Read on to learn more about why we think you should.

Steeped in history with its origins going back to Roman times, Basel is Switzerland’s third-largest city, often overlooked by visitors who prefer to visit Zurich.

For visitors, central Basel is split into two unique areas on either side of the Rhine River: Kleinbasel and Basel’s Altstadt. Even though the River divides the city, bridges crossing over the river make the city easy to navigate on foot.

Our favourite things to do in Basel

Explore Basel Altstadt

Visit the Rathaus

Basel’s Rathaus (Town Hall) is a unique structure. Standing in the heart of Basel’s bustling Marktplatz, the building’s red facade catches your attention. We were in awe of this building, which was constructed over 500 years ago. Sit on a bench across from the Renaissance building to study its beautiful façade, complete with intricate carvings and sculptures.

Basel's unique Rathaus
We sat across from Basel’s unique Rathaus to admire the amazing exterior before we went inside

But wait, there’s more. Step inside the arcaded entrance, and you’ll find yourself in an inner courtyard. You’ll find your breath taken away with walls covered extravagantly in frescoes and grand staircases.

Basel Rathaus beautiful interior
The beautiful interior courtyard of Basel’s Rathaus

While the building is an iconic landmark in Basel, it is also a working building housing the city council and the mayor’s office, as well as being the seat of government.

Basel Munsterplatz

Basel’s Munsterplatz is one of the oldest public squares in Basel, hosting not only the Basler Munster but also many beautiful historic buildings around the square. Take a look around at the Renaissance and Baroque architecture of the buildings, many of which date back to medieval times.

The striking toweres and red sandstone facade of Basel Munster
The striking towers and red sandstone facade of Basel Munster

The square has also been a public meeting place for centuries and continues the tradition today, with concerts and major events held there, including the annual Christmas Markets.

Basel Munster

Basel Munster, and its towers are visible across the city on either side of the river. However, it’s most striking up close in Munsterplatz. The Munster was built between 1019 and 1500 and is known for its red sandstone exterior, colourful roof and Gothic facade. The church was destroyed and rebuilt after an earthquake in 1356.

One of the cloisters of Basel Munster
One of the cloisters of Basel Munster

The interior is simple and lightly adorned, but what stands out are the beautiful stained glass windows and frescoes. The highlight was wandering around the two cloisters, which led to a shaded terrace with a viewpoint overlooking the river and across to the other side.

The viewing terrace behind Basel Munster which provides views over the Rhine River and beyond
The viewing terrace behind Basel Munster provides views over the Rhine River and beyond

Walk along medieval Augustinegasse

One of the most beautiful routes to walk to Munsterplatz and the Munster is along Augustinegasse. A stroll along the street takes you past medieval and aristocratic houses, as well as museums with glimpses across the river from vantage points. Along the way, look out for the Augustiner Brunnen, a decorative fountain bearing the city’s coat of arms. A fountain has been on the site since 1468.

Augustiner Brunnen, the decorative fountain on Basel's Augustinegasse
Augustiner Brunnen, the decorative fountain on Basel’s Augustinegasse

Mittlere Brücke

Since 1226, the Mittlere Brücke has been one of Basel’s most well-known landmarks. Linking the two sides of the river, it is one of the oldest Rhine crossings.

Mittlere Brücke as seen from Basel's Augustinegasse viewpoint
Mittlere Brücke as seen from Basel’s Augustinegasse viewpoint

The current bridge, known as the new Mittlere Brücke, was erected in 1905 to incorporate the city’s tram system.

Stroll in Altstadt’s backstreets

Venture away from the more popular riverside streets in the Altstadt and discover the backstreets of the old town. Filled with beautiful old houses and intimate squares dating back to the 12th century, you’ll find it a treat to walk around.

The beautiful courtyards and medieval buildings of Basel;s Altstadt
The beautiful courtyards and medieval buildings of Basel’s Altstadt

Be mesmerised by the Tinguely Fountain

Walk through Basel’s theatre district and you’ll find a modern addition to the Altstadt, the Tinguely Fountain

For a modern twist, visit the Tinguely Fountain (Tinguely-Brunnen). IT sits on the site of the old Basel Theatre and next to the new Basel Theatre. Watch the fun and mechanical sculptures moving in this quirky fountain.

Tinguely Fountain in Basel, Switzerland
Tinguely Fountain

The fountain was created by Jean Tinguely, one of Basel’s most celebrated artists. There’s also a museum in Basel dedicated to his work.

Venture across the river to Kleinbasel

With its vibrant squares and choice of inernatleinbasel, originally known as “lesser Basel”, has become a popular part of town to visit.

Kaserne Basel and the Basel Tattoo

Kaserne Basel is Basel’s central culture hub. The open-air theatre hosts up to 250 concerts and performances every year.

During our stay, the annual Basel Tattoo was being held at the venue. The Basel Tattoo is the second-largest open-air tattoo in the world. It promises to be a sensational show featuring bagpipes, music, and folk dancing.

If you’re planning to attend the Tattoo, tickets sell out fast, so book early. We didn’t have tickets, so we spent some time enjoying the grounds outside the venue with the locals, who, like us, were taking in the sounds of the rehearsals before the main event.

Stroll the Rhein Promenade

The Rhein Promenade offers some of the best views of the Altstadt. Take a morning walk or evening stroll.

Views of the Altstadt and locals floating down te Rhine River. Visit Basel, a Swiss treasure that you must see.
Views of the Altstadt and locals floating down the Rhine River in Basel

If you’re visiting during the summer months, you’ll find a phenomenon particular to the city. On our morning walk, we came across locals engaging in one of their favourite activities. With their daywear in special waterproof bags doubling as floats, we saw dozens of people floating down the river.

Enjoy a riverside picnic dinner

The huge Migros supermarket (it even has a large patisserie section) in Kleinbasel was our spot to collect a crisp rosé wine and an assortment of breads, cheeses, and olives one evening.

In the summer, the riverside is wonderful for an evening picnic. We found a spot to join the locals watching the floaters go down the river, listening to musicians entertain us, looking over the scenic Altstadt and engaging in a little people-watching while enjoying our simple evening meal.

More things you can do while in Basel

  • Not much of the castle walls remain in Basel today, but walk a little further from the Altstadt to St Alban and you’ll find the parts of castle walls and the Spalen Gate, one of the city’s three remaining gates.
  • Also in St Alban, you’ll find Basel’s Paper Museum. It’s a working paper museum set in a medieval paper mill.
  • Make a day trip to Baden in the Limmat Valley. It has a beautiful old town and is known for its thermal baths, and is just 56km from Basel.

In case you’re interested

You name it, we’ve been on all sorts of holidays. However, whether we’re exploring our own country or travelling further afield, our most treasured ones are our road trips. Read why on our blog post dedicated to self-driving – “It’s more fun to self-drive

Why we love to drive. Are you ready to join us on the journey?

Preparations for our next travel and driving adventure are almost complete.

Setting our plan some months ago, we researched our destinations and thought we had come up with a pretty good driving route. We made sure our driving days would be leisurely and not too long. Most importantly, we must arrive at our destination before nightfall.

Over the months we have dedicated a great deal of time to read about our destinations, thought a little more about where we would like to dedicate more time (a hard decision to make as we would like to stay a little longer everywhere) and have made tweaks to our driving route. Our plan is now firm.

All this time and effort and we haven’t taken off yet! We could just sit back and enjoy the journey gazing through a coach or train window or let a tour operator determine our itinerary.

Here are 10 reasons why we choose to self-drive:

  1. We enjoy learning about where we are travelling to and when tailoring our own itinerary, we learn much more about everywhere we are going to.
  2. We decide when to leave. Unless it’s going to be a long driving day, we can still enjoy a morning walk to have a last look around the city or town before we hit the road. There is no 7am bags outside the hotel room, breakfast and on the coach at 8am for us.
  3. The backroads are more interesting to drive along than aiming to get from point A to B on a busy motorway. Just driving through little villages which lie off the beaten track can be enlightening.
  4. We get to pick where to stop for a coffee or lunch break. There are so many beautiful towns to pass through when we take the “toll-free” route. No stopping at a busy service area on the side of a motorway to line up at the restrooms, grab a quick bite to eat and gulp down a drink for us.
  5. There is always the opportunity for unplanned and spontaneous diversions. Sometimes someone we’ve met in the previous town has recommended an attraction devoid of tourists. How often we see something from the road then turn off the road to have a look.
  6. We love to turn on the radio and listen to local music. It’s an opportunity to move out of our comfort zone and listen to something new even if we can’t understand a word.
  7. We can randomly stop at the side of the road to enjoy a stunning view or taste grapes straight off the grapevine – the vineyards are often not fenced off!
  8. There’s no drifting off to sleep by the gentle roll of a coach or the clacking of a train on the tracks. We’re wide awake, there is so much to see.
  9. We have the pleasure of interacting with local people; even if it’s just to see the fear in their eyes when they realise you are unused to driving on the wrong side of the road. A smile, nod and a wave are sometimes all it takes.
  10. We get to drive a brand new car – a make which we have no intention to buy at home.

And so, for us, the first day on the road will be a little daunting. We’ll have to familiarise ourselves with driving on the “wrong” side of the road again. There is no doubt, we will be the slowest car in the “slow” lane. And, as much as we would like to, we won’t always be able to reach our destinations by the back roads.

We’ll get used to drivers honking their car horns at us! But we know that, unlike our drivers at home who honk and gesticulate loudly to show their displeasure when a driver makes an unintentional driving error, their European counterparts are just letting us know that they are coming up behind us ready to overtake. It’s not road rage, it’s part of the driving culture in Europe. Honk honk. “Hi, it’s Tony. I’m just about to overtake you on this blind corner. Wish me luck!”

And, even though we will have instructed our trusty GPS to avoid “no vehicle” and inner-city congestion charge zones, we’ll still somehow end up driving straight down The Mall towards Buckingham Palace!

Driving yourself means you can drive around the Arc de Triumph as many times as you want!

Travel is an adventure. We could just sit back and let someone else do the driving but there is no adventure in that!

We’ll be sharing our journey on Facebook and Instagram if you’d like to join us on our driving adventure. Follow us via the links above to make sure you don’t miss our “snap of the day” as we explore parts of eastern Europe.

One more thing …

If you’re travelling in Europe, look out for cars with the distinctive pink numberplate. They are travellers like us who lease their vehicle. More info on why and our preferred supplier here. We hope to see you on one of the many spectacular backroads in Europe.

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