Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: northern spain

Why you will enjoy walking the full Camino de Santiago

After 36 days of walking the full Camino de Santiago route (780km) from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in southern France, we stood in front of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela. We had done it!

Why we chose to walk the full Camino de Santiago

Ten years earlier, we had stood in the same spot watching bedraggled but euphoric pilgrims arrive after completing their Camino walk. This scene inspired us to set ourselves the challenge of some day completing our own Camino walk.

Walking the full Camino de Santiago - Cathedral de Santiago
Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela

Once we’d decided to walk the Camino, we agreed that we wanted to commit to walking the entire Camino Frances route.

World events and other travel plans meant our  Camino had to be put on hold for several years, but in 2023, we decided that this was the perfect time to do it. We reconnected with our travel arrangers, UTracks, to make the arrangements.

Were we ready to do this – Camino jitters

Did we get Camino jitters? Of course we did! We had never walked long distances on hiking trails, almost every day for 36 days.

Getting closer and closer to our start date, we often asked ourselves questions, “Were we ready to do this?”, “Were we prepared, had we trained enough?”, “Had we packed the right gear?”. All are questions that first-time Camino pilgrims ask themselves.

Suddenly, we were in St-Jean-de-Pied-de-Port, and the only way to go was forward. We started by putting one foot in front of the other and completed one of the hardest days on the Camino de Santiago, hiking over the Pyrenees mountains into Spain.

Did we enjoy walking the full Camino de Santiago?

Yes. It is indeed an experience of a lifetime. Little did we know when we started that it would leave an indelible mark on our lives. In one way or another, we find ourselves recalling or talking about a particular scene, episode, or day on our walk.

Then, there are the people we met over the 36 days of walking the full Camino de Santiago. People walk the Camino de Santiago for various reasons; some prefer to walk solo with minimal interaction, while others enjoy meeting and engaging with fellow walkers from around the world. We met some wonderful people during our time on the Camino.

How did we feel when we got to our destination?

Watching pilgrims arrive at the Cathedral on our first visit, we saw a mix of both tears of joy, elation, and in some cases, pure exhaustion.

How did we feel? There was a small shine in the eye but even more were the wide smiles on our faces. We had achieved the challenge we had set for ourselves. We had reached our destination safely and without injury.

Walking the full Camino de Santiago - Arriving at Ground Zero
Ground Zero – Plaza de Obra

The important stuff for walking the full Camino de Santiago

We’re glad we …

  • Made sure we were fit and ready. Important lesson is get in shape before you arrive to commence the Camino. Don’t be afraid of the idea of having to walk every day or the distances. You”ll find your walking legs affer a few days.
  • Invested in good footwear and breathable socks. We bought sturdy new hiking shoes and broke them in before we arrived in St Jean Pied de Port. Most importantly, to prevent the common Camino feet ailments of blisters and sore muscles, we stopped regularly throughout the day to take off our shoes and socks, air our feet and rest.
  • Used hiking poles. We invested in a pair retractable hiking poles which we carried in our daypacks ever ready to come out whenever we needed support going up and down hills. We found they came in extremely useful to steady and assist on the steep descents. They prevented us, as is the tendency, from moving downhill too fast. We came across a few pilgrims suffering knee injuries or just sore knees from going too fast without the support of hiking poles.
  • Chose to walk the full Camino de Santiago during the summer months. This prevented us having to walk in rainwear as well as slippery and muddy tracks. Yes, the summer can be hot and dry. We started our daily walks immediately after breakfast, when the temperatures were moderate, to arrive at our destination by ealy afternoon before the extreme heat arrived. By the late afternoon we were sitting refreshed and relaxed in a cool spot having pre-dinner drinks. Some of our walking companions chose to commence in the very early hours to avoid the heat in the day. To escape any injury, we preferred not to walk in thr dark.
  • Took our time and paid attention when on the trail. It’s easy to lose focus when you’re tired. That’s how injuries happen! Or waymarkers get missed!
  • Took advantage of luggaage transfers. Many pilgrims prefer to carry their own backpack and belongings. We enjoyed the freedom to enjoy our daily walks without the extra weight on our backs. Our transfers were efficiently undertaken by Jacobtrans. More often than not, our bags had arrived and were safely installed in our rooms before we arrived.
  • Booked private accommodation instead of choosing to stay in albergues. Knowing we had somewhere pre-arranged to stay overnight meant we could enjoy our walking days. We noticed many pilgrims depart in the ealy hours trying to reach their next destination before others arrived to ensure they had secured a bed for the night. If they arrived too late and missed out they would have to continue to the next albergue which could a distance away or even worse, have to backtrack. We also took the option to upgrade our accommodation at several stops so that we could experience staying in a monastery.
  • Factored in rest days. Northern Spain has some beautiful cities which international tourists don’t visit. Pilgrims can really experience the authenticity of a Spanish city. We took rest days in Logrono and Leon. It allowed us to spend the day looking more closely at the city and visit their attractions. We also recommend staying an extra night in Burgos.
  • Took our travel yoga mats with us. Having our yoga mats on hand meant we were disciplined and did yoga and stretches at the end of each day. It made a big difference. We had no aches or pains and suffered no injuries during our walk.

Be prepared

Some of our thoughts on enjoying and making the most of your Camino. Be prepared:

  • To put away your device while walking. Use it only for taking photos to record memories of your journey. Instead, enjoy the natural environment, greet and interact with fellow pilgrims and locals. You’ll find that language is not a barrier when walking the full Camino de Santiago.
  • To turn and look back. Some of the best scenery could be behind you. Unless you are planning to walk a return journey, you may not see the same scenery again.
  • To walk at your own pace. As long as you have done the preparatory work before commencing the Camino, your body will get used to the environment and walking long distance.
  • To find you”ll miss walking the full Camino de Santiago. Many pilgrims experience a sense of loss once they have finished their route. The daily act of walking becomes meditative an addictive and as you get closer to the end, you almost don’t want it to end.

Our recommendation

Time permitting, we recommend walking the full Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela as a wonderful active holiday experience. While the final 100km can become busy, for most of the journey it’s the best way to see northern Spain’s stunning natural environment without crowds of tourists.

The Camino provides an opportunity to escape the everyday noise of the world provides time for peaceful reflection.

The Camino allows us to challenge and find that our bodies are capable of the physical and mental challenges of traversing ever changing terrain and the large distance.

Would we walk the full Camino de Santiago again?

For some pilgrims/walkers, walking the Camino de Santiago fulfils a once in a lifetime dream. Others return to walk the same path over and over again. We enjoyed our personal Camino and the challenge.

There is always the possibility that we will return to walk the same route again. As travel enthusiasts, however, there are so many other travel adventures we would like to undertake before we returned again to recomplete the full Camino Frances. There are numerous other Camino routes we would consider completing first.

Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?

Are you interested in or contemplating walking the full or part of the Camino de Santiago and want to know more? Take a look at our blog which tells you everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago through the link below.

Everything you need to know about walking the Camino

Burgos – an unexpected treasure in northern Spain

We wanted to stop somewhere to break up our drive across northern Spain from southern France to the Douro Valley, Portugal. Burgos looked like a sensible choice. We thought it would be a dusty sleepy town with little to do. Instead, we were surprised to find Burgos – an unexpected treasure in northern Spain!

Burgos Old Town

It was a hot summer afternoon when we arrived. A blast of 43-degree heat accompanied us to our accommodation in the city’s old town. We waited patiently in the shade of a shopfront for our host who arrived 30 minutes later.

After settling in and undeterred by the heat, we went to the Tourist Office. Outside, the streets were still empty. A helpful staff member loaded us with information on everything we could do in the city. She encouraged us to take advantage of the complimentary entrance to monuments on Tuesdays.

Plaza Mayor

Temperatures were still high so the best thing to do was find the city’s Plaza Mayor for a cool beverage. The Plaza is eye-catching with its colourful facades and arcaded buildings including the Town Hall. People had started to emerge for an evening walk and to gather in the square.

Plaza Mayor, Burgos
The colourful buildings in Plaza Mayor

We found a tapas bar in the Plaza to enjoy a thirst-quenching Sangria. A light breeze encouraged us to remain there for our evening meal to enjoy watching people coming and going. However, an alternative had to be found. The bar’s kitchen was closed due to a staff shortage.

Leaving reluctantly, we settled for a simple burger and fries meal at Goiko (they offer vegetarian and vegan options) in another pretty plaza, Plaza Alonso-Martinez.

Plaza Santa Maria and Cathedral de Burgos

Lured by the soothing sounds of the handpan we walked to Plaza Santa Maria after dinner and stared in awe at the stunning Cathedral de Burgos. The Plaza was bustling with locals, Spanish tourists, and Camino de Santiago pilgrims.

Plaza Santa Maria, Burgos, Spain
Locals and pilgrims gather in front of the Cathedral in Plaza Santa Maria

The Gothic Cathedral was built between 1221 and 1567 replacing the original 9th-century church. Inside you’ll find numerous decadent chapels and ornate altarpieces. It is also the burial place of El Cid, a famous Castillian leader during the 11th century

Cathedral de Burgos by night
Cathedral de Burgos by night

The queue to enter was long including plenty of Camino pilgrims who had arrived after an arduous day of walking. The Cathedral is considered one of the five most emblematic churches on the Camino. We decided to forego a visit inside the Cathedral during this visit as we expected to return to Burgos when walking the full Camino de Santiago the following year. Instead, we enjoyed circumnavigating the Cathedral several times admiring its beautiful exterior during our stay.

The following morning, we arrived in the Plaza to find it transformed for the start of the Vuelta a Burgos, an elite annual cycling race. The Cathedral was even more stunning in daylight.

Burgos - an unexpected treasure in northern Spain
The Cathedral de Burgos was the backdrop for the Vuelta a Burgos

Castillo de Burgos

Our next stop was the Castillo de Burgos ruins located at the top of a small hill accessed from behind the Cathedral. The castle was built in the 9th century because of its strategic location. Today visitors walk to the Mirador (lookout) which provides panoramic views over the city, the Cathedral and beyond.

Views from the Mirador at Castillo de Burgos, Burgos, Spain
Views from the Mirador at Castillo de Burgos

The 10-15 minute walk up to the Castillo is along pleasant paved pathways and a roadside surrounded by trees. At the halfway point preparations for the Vuelta competition were being made. The Vuelta cyclists traverse the hill as part of the race course.

Arco de Santa Maria

Returning to ground level, we continued through Plaza Santa Maria to the Arco de Santa Maria. It was one of the twelve original medieval entrances into the old town.

An exhibition space inside the arch hosts temporary art and cultural exhibitions.

Arco de Santa Maria, Burgos, Spain
The ornate Arco de Santa Maria

The stone facade on the riverside is the highlight of the archway. The carvings represent some of the city’s noble figures and leaders in history.

Paseo de Marceliana Sana Maria

Paseo de Marceliano Santa Maria, Burgos, Spain
The tree-lined Paseo de Marceliano Santa Maria

From the Arco, we continued through a tree-lined park, Paseo de Marceliano Santa Maria running beside the River Arlanzon. It’s a pretty spot shaded by trees and lined with bench seats where locals sit amongst statues of historical figures. It’s the perfect place to stop for a rest on a hot day.

Statue of El Cid and Puente de San Pablo

Further on, we found the legendary Spanish hero El Cid statue standing in the middle of Plaza del Mio Cid. Traffic circles the statue to access the surrounding streets and the grand Teatro Principal stands on one side. The theatre was refurbished and revived in 1997 after being in ruins for 50 years.

Statue of El Cid and Puente de San Pablo, Burgos, Spain
Statue of El Cid and Puente de San Pablo

Puente de San Pablo was a short distance away and is one of twelve bridges crossing the Arlanzon River. Flooding of the river over the centuries has meant that the bridge has been rebuilt many times. On the walk over the bridge we were accompanied by statues of central figures related to El Cid called the Ciclo Cidian.

Museum of Human Evolution

The Museum of Human Evolution is on the other side of Puente de San Pablo. It holds archaeological finds from Atapuerca, where the oldest human remains in Europe were found. We decided to forego a visit and instead walked along the riverside path towards the Miraflores Monastery which is 4km outside of Burgos.

Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real delas Huelgas

The Church of the Monastario delas Huelgas, Burgos, Spain
The Church of the Monastario delas Huelgas, Burgos, Spain

Our morning walk the next day took us through leafy suburbs and to the Monasterio de las Huelgas. The monastery of Cistercian nuns is located 1.5km west of the city. Founded in the 12th century, it’s a beautiful tranquil Romanesque church and monastery complex. The museum houses medieval textiles and royal tombs. The Codex of the Huelgas, a rare musical manuscript dating back to the 14th century is one of the monastery’s prized possessions.

The courtyard of the Monastario de las Huelgas, Burgos, Spain
The courtyard of the Monastario de las Huelgas

Across from Plaza del Compas, we loved the old homes and shopfronts on Calle Alfonso VIII. It felt like we’d stepped back in time. There was not a soul around when we walked along the street.

The beautiful homes and shopfronts on Calle Alfonso VIII across from the monastery complex

Exploring the famous Castilian vineyards

One hour south of Burgos is one of Spain’s greatest wine regions, Ribera del Duero. We drove through the countryside surrounded by vineyards to Bodega Portia, one of the area’s most renowned wineries. Much of the day was spent at the winery and vineyards sampling exquisite wines over lunch in their restaurant.

Whether or not you’re a wine connoisseur, we think it’s worthwhile visiting to see the extraordinary architecture of the wineries in the region.

Bodega Portia, Ribera del Duero, Spain
Bodega Portia

Our accommodation

Our apartment advertised itself as “a special apartment in the historical centre of Burgos” It was large, modern, comfortable, clean and true to the description on a beautiful street lined with shops at ground level and apartments with glass-enclosed patios in the heart of the old town.

Where to sample the best tapas

Calle Avellanos in the heart of Burgos is lined with tapas bars. We thoroughly enjoyed our evening at La Comtienda and highly recommend it. We sat outside to journal over pre-dinner drinks where each wine or beer ordered was accompanied by tapas. For dinner, we went inside for a variety of delectable share plates.

Burgos – an unexpected treasure in northern Spain

Our perception that northern Spanish towns are sleepy towns with little to offer was changed by our stay in Burgos. Burgos is an elegant city with a historical centre filled with beautiful 15th and 16th-century buildings to explore, unique regional cuisine and exquisite wines.

With much still left to explore we were excited to be returning while walking the full Camino de Santiago the following year.

If you’re looking for a Spanish destination that remains undiscovered by international tourists, then Burgos is the city to visit. It’s a secret destination that only Spanish tourists know about.

We found Burgos to be an unexpected treasure in northern Spain!

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