Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: roadtrips in europe

Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany

Our first day in Germany, and the pick for our first stop on our drive to Koblenz, where we were staying, was Mainz, a short 35-minute drive from Frankfurt Airport. We weren’t disappointed. Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany, with us.

Sitting on the left bank of the Rhine River, Mainz is the official wine capital of Germany and is surrounded by the largest wine-growing area in the country.

The city has more to offer than just wine, though. It has an old city filled with historic buildings and monuments—one of the reasons why we picked the city as our first stop.

Our top things to do in Mainz

Spend time in the Marktplatz

As with any medieval city, the Marktplatz is the hub. Mainz was no exception. It was still early in the day; however, locals had started to emerge, gathering at the cafes in the square for coffee.

Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany. Colourful buildings in the Marktplatz of Mainz in Germany
The colourful buildings in the Marktplatz

A blend of coloured and decorated gabled houses stands opposite the most distinctive building in the square, the Mainz Cathedral.

Marktbrunnen Fountain

We took a closer look at the Marktbrunnen, an ornate three-columned fountain built, like the cathedral, of red sandstone, before we visited inside the cathedral. The fountain sits to one side, in a corner of the square and was built in the 16th century.

Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain standing in the Markplatz of Mainz, Germany
Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain

The fountain was commissioned by the elector Albert of Mainz and crafted by the Mainz sculptor Hans Backoffen. The Marktbrunnen is one of the first Renaissance fountains in Germany.

The Prince-Elector had the fountain built to commemorate his successful survival of the “Peasants’ War” of 1525 and to seal the deal with the adoption of the 31 articles of grievance that the peasants demanded from their ruler.

Mainz Cathedral

St Martin, the Romanesque cathedral, is over a 1000 years old. The red sandstone building with its six distinguishing towers, including an octagonal tower, dominates the Altstadt.

Mainz Cathedral, Germany
Mainz Cathedral

Built in 975 AD, the interior of the cathedral is as impressive as the exterior. The interior has a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture and ornate tombs of prince-electors and archbishops. The small, well-manicured cloister is also accessible to the public.

The interior of Mainz Cathderal in the German city of Mainz
The cloister of Mainz Cathedral in the German city of Mainz
The pretty cloister

The cathedral also has a museum section with religious artefacts and items from the treasury.

The Gutenberg Museum

The Gutenberg Museum honours the inventor of the printing press, Johannes Gutenberg

Instead of visiting the museum, we opted to explore more of Mainz’s outdoor attractions; however, when researching things to do in Mainz, the museum was highlighted as a great place for book lovers and history enthusiasts. It has two of the 49 remaining Gutenberg Bibles, as well as a working reproduction of Gutenberg’s press.

In 1946, the city’s university, which was founded in 1477, was renamed Johannes Gutenberg University to honour the publisher.

Walk a little further to Schillerplatz

Next, we walked to another significant square, Schillerplatz. Lined with notable palaces, the square is named after the poet Friedrich Schiller, whose statue stands in the centre.

Another notable feature in the square is the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain standing in the centre of the square. The fountain is decorated with 200 quirky bronze statues celebrating the Mainz Carnival, which starts in the square on 11 November every year.

Schillerplatz in Mainz, Germany
Schillerplatz is surrounded by beautiful, noble houses with the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain in its centre

With its colourful garden beds and benches under shady trees, the square is the perfect spot to relax and take a breather when exploring the city in the summer.

Old Town (Altstadt)

Mainz’s Old Town is a great place to explore. It’s full of narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses and some lovely squares.

St Stephan’s Church

St. Stephen’s Church is located above the old town. We walked up to this Gothic church, renowned for its stunning blue stained glass windows. The nine windows, created between 1978 and 1985, depict scenes from the Old Testament and fill the space with a blue glow.

Disappointingly, the church was closed to visitors when we arrived, and we were unable to visit inside. Instead, we enjoyed some of the views over Mainz from the church’s terrace.

Mainz Rhine Promenade

After exploring the sights around the old town, we strolled to the promenade alongside the Rhine River. It’s a beautiful spot to take in the scenery and watch the river and cargo boats go by.

Our conclusion

Mainz is unquestionably a town we would have liked to have had the time to explore further. It’s a city full of history, culture, monuments and landmarks, coupled with picturesque scenery.

A visit to Mainz is a great way to start your exploration of the scenic Rhine Valley vineyards and Castle route.

In case you’re interested

We stayed for several nights in Koblenz to explore the historic city, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Read about this fascinating city through the link below.

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit

With a long history, scenic landscape, and surrounded by mountain ranges and vineyards, the city was the first stop on our driving tour of Germany. Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.

Koblenz sits conveniently at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers. This makes it the perfect city from which to explore the greater Rhine and Moselle valleys.

Koblenz

Koblenz, founded by the Romans and with a history spanning over 2,000 years of various rulers, has evolved into a treasure trove for its visitors.

Our top things to do in Koblenz

Jesuitenplatz

In the heart of Koblenz’s Altstadt is a square named for the Jesuit order. The order was part of the city’s community for almost 200 years, until they were expelled from the city in 1773. The Baroque building and portal on one side of the square, formerly the Jesuit College, is the Town Hall.

Jesuitenplatz, Koblenz, Germany
Jesuitenplatz

Take some time to look out for the small Jesuit Church built in the 1610s, which stands quietly in the corner of the square. It’s easy to miss!

Visit the History Column in Görresplatz Square

Another lovely square in Koblenz’s old town is Görresplatz. Surrounded by beautiful buildings, the square’s main highlight is the History Column.

The History Column in Görresplatz Square, Koblenz, Germany
The History Column in Görresplatz Square

The fountain was built in 1992, marking the 2000th anniversary of the city. A column recounts the city’s detailed history. The scenes depicted on it span from Roman times to the Middle Ages, the Electorate (see the section on the Electorate Palace below), the French occupation, and up to the present day.

Deutsche Eck Monument

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit
The Deutsches Eck Monument on the riverfront in Koblenz

The Deutsche Eck Monument celebrates two important features of Koblenz: the spot where the Moselle and Rhine Rivers meet, and the large statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. It pays tribute to the German emperor, who was the first head of state of a united Germany.

Basilica of St Castor

The Basilica’s twin towers peek out from between the trees a short distance from the Deutsches Eck. It’s the oldest church in Koblenz.

Basilica of St Castor in Koblenz, Germany
Basilica of St Castor

Most of the architecture dates back to the 12th century. Like other parts of the city, some sections of the Basilica were damaged during World War II, but they were reconstructed to their original condition.

Wander around the pleasant gardens in the complex behind the Church building.

The gardens of the Basilica of St Castor in Koblenz, Germany
The gardens of the Basilica of St Castor

Florinsmarkt Square

Another Altstadt square to pass through is Florinsmarkt Square. Formerly the political and economic centre of the city, it houses four historic buildings. Unfortunately, three were in a state of disrepair, boarded up and in need of major renovation when we visited. The only building of significance which has survived the times is the old shopping and dancing hall. It stands proudly at the back of the square.

The shopping and dancing hall building in Florinsmarkt, Koblenz, Germany
The shopping and dancing hall building in Florinsmarkt

Under the tower clock, there’s a small inlay of a knight. The knight’s eyes move back and forth in time with the clock’s pendulum and sticks out its tongue every full and half hour. Legend says he is reminiscent of the robber baron Johann Lutter von Kobern, who was executed on the Florinsmarkt in 1536. Apparently, he twisted his eyes on the scaffold and stuck his tongue out at the spectators.

Walk along the riverfront promenade

A walk along Konrad Adenauer-Ufer Kastorhof, gazing up at the fortress on the hill across the river, is the perfect way to savour some downtime in Koblenz.

At the far end, away from Deutsches Eck, you’ll see the imposing Prussian Government Building. It cuts a striking imperial presence on the waterfront. Inside are monumental staircases with vaulted halls and outstanding stonework.

The former Prussian Government Building in Koblenz, Germany
The former Prussian Government Building

Today, the building houses the Presidium of the Federal Office of Bundeswehr Equipment, Information Technology and In-Service Support (BAAINBw). The southern part has housed the Koblenz Higher Regional Court since 1993.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

High above on the right bank of the Rhine, looking across over the city, is Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. There has been a fortress here since the 11th century.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, Koblenz, Germany
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress on the hill overlooking Koblenz

After hundreds of years of changing rulers and destruction, the current fortress was reconstructed by the Prussians and is now the second largest in Europe.

The best way to access the fortress is by taking the scenic cable car ride from the Konrad Adenauer-Ufer Kastorhof promenade. A bonus is the spectacular scenery over Koblenz on the way to and from the fortress.

Views from Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, Koblenz, Germany
Views from Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

The fortress buildings are now the site of the Koblenz State Museum. Even if you’re not interested in museums, it’s worth crossing the river for the panoramic view of the city. There’s also a wooden viewing platform which gives expansive views of the city and the rivers.

Electoral Palace

We found the groundkeepers hard at work tending the gardens of the grand building, which is not far from the riverfront promenade.

Prince Clemens Wenceslaus built the Electoral Palace (you’ll find his statue on the street leading to the Palace) over nearly 20 years from 1777 to 1793. The Palace was taken over by the Prussians in 1815 after the Prince was forced to leave Koblenz after the French Revolution. For the next 100 years, it was a residence for Prussian royals for 100 years.

The Electoral Palace, Koblenz, Germany
The Electoral Palace

The building was damaged by a bombing during WWII and rebuilt to its original structure, but it became evident as we moved closer that the building was abandoned. Paint was peeling from the facade, and it no longer looked as majestic as close-up.

One of the groundsmen approached us as we peered through the windows to ascertain the state of the interior. He indicated that we could walk through an entrance from which we could access the gardens on the other side.

The riverfront gardens of the Electoral Palace in Koblenz, Germany
The riverfront gardens of the Electoral Palace

While the building was indeed in a state of disrepair, we are thankful for the encounter with a groundsman who found us peering through the windows into the building. He indicated that we could walk through an entrance into a hallway, from which we could access the beautifully terraced gardens in front of the river

Visit a biergarten

On a hot summer day, after visiting the sights around the city, there is nothing better than enjoying the river breezes while sampling local beer at the biergarten on the Koblenz riverfront. It’s the perfect place from which to watch the riverboats cruise by, people-watch, and have a banter with the locals.

Where we stayed

We booked a charming apartment in the heart of the Altstadt, which was within walking distance of all sights and attractions and close to the river.

The apartment was spacious for the two of us, tastefully decorated, and featured a balcony. Our host met us on-site to provide access and assistance to the garage. The “icing on the cake” was the bottle of local wine that our host had generously left for us to enjoy. A lovely welcome gift for our first night in Germany!

Things to do around Koblenz

Drive the Rhine Castle route. Read more about the highlights of our drive along one of Germany’s most scenic roads through the link below:

You’ll love driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route.

You’ll love driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route

Fresh off a morning arrival on our flight into Frankfurt, we hopped into our car and headed north. We were driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed route is divided into two parts.

Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route
The Rhine Castle route

We would drive the first half to Koblenz and stay there for a couple of days before completing the second half to Bonn. Koblenz, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers in the Upper Rhine Valley, is one of Germany’s oldest cities. The Mitterhein wine region also runs between Bingen and Bonn.

Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route

The drive from Bingen to Koblenz

Dotted with over 40 castles, the route is also part of the Rhine Valley wine region. The city of Mainz, approximately a 90-minute drive from Frankfurt, serves as the gateway to the wine region, while the Castle route begins from the town of Bingen. Bingen is a sleepy town with a lovely main street with cafes and restaurants. We stopped to have lunch there before continuing.

From Bingen onwards is a real treat for anyone wanting to drive this route. The road winds its way alongside the river while riverboats slip gently past. Along the way, there are castles and fortresses on high peaks or set lower amongst the vineyards on both sides of the river. While it isn’t practical to visit all the castles, nor are many open to the public, it was fun driving along, spotting them all. The drive between Bingen and Koblenz should only take an hour; however, to enjoy the scenery, making short stops at designated viewing points and allowing yourself a detour to a castle or two on the way, you should allow at least two to three hours.

Phililppsburg Castle in Marksburg, Rhine Castle route, Germany
The fairytale Philippsburg Castle in Marksburg on the Rhine Castle route

With so many castles and options, we strategically chose a few spots to look out for on the route.

  • Burg Reichenstein
  • Sankt Goar (Rheinfels Castle), from where you can look across to the Lorelei
  • At Boppard, we stopped to look across the river to Sterrenberg Castle
  • After Boppard spotted Marksburg Castle
  • Looked out for Stozenfels Castle just before arriving in Koblenz

A visit to Schonberg Castle

A castle that wasn’t on our list, but we couldn’t resist visiting after seeing it perched on the hillside from afar, was Schonberg Castle. A short distance off the main road in the town of Oberwesel, we wound our way up the hill to the castle’s car park.

Entrance to Schoneberg Castle
Outside Schonburg Castle walls

The castle, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, was built in the 12th century; however, there are records of a dwelling on the site in 900 AD. From the car park, it’s a couple of minutes walk to the small arched entrance into the cobbled carriage path and inside the castle walls, from where a narrower walkway continues into the castle courtyard.

Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance
Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance

The Dukes of Schonburg and their families lived in the castle from the 12th century until 1689, when much of it was destroyed by troops during the Nine Years’ War. Partially reconstructed in the late 19th century, it wasn’t until the town purchased it in 1950 that it was completely revived.

The castle is now a 4-star hotel, Burghotel Auf Schonburg, with a museum in the castle tower, which is open to the public. The castle’s gardens are, however, available for only hotel guests to roam. For others, there is a vantage point overlooking the Rhine River, giving you splendid views. The picturesque scenery from above was worth making the small detour and was one of the highlights of our drive.

View from Schonburg Castle lookout
View from Schonburg Castle lookout

There is also a small lookout before entering or after exiting the castle walls, from where there are excellent views of the grapevines of the hills of the valley behind the castle.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress in Koblenz

In Koblenz, we had anticipated taking a morning walk up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress high on the hillside over the city from the other side of the Rhine River. Unfortunately, there was no easy way to cross the river on foot.

Instead, we waited until after we returned from our day excursion to the beautiful town of Cochem, to go across by cable car to look around the fortress. The cable car ride provides fabulous views over Koblenz’s old town.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is a complex of buildings sprawling over a large area of the eastern bank. The fortress buildings are now home to the State Museum, displaying antiques and war memorabilia.

If you’re not a museum-lover, you can take a wander around the extensive fort area, savouring the views, especially from the viewing platform, which is a piece of art itself. The triangular-shaped wooden platform was originally built for a Horticultural exhibition, then repurposed and placed on the fortress’s grounds. From the platform, you get spectacular views of Koblenz, the Rhine and Moselle Rivers.

The Rhine Castle route from Koblenz to Bonn

The Rhine Castle route is determined to run from Bingen to Bonn. However, we were disappointed not to find any noteworthy castles or fortresses on the drive along the Rhine River between Koblenz and Bonn. Maybe they are well hidden from the roadside.

Our opinion

The first section of our drive, between Bingen and Koblenz, mesmerised us with the centuries-old, magnificent castles and fortresses as well as the terraced vineyards on the rolling hills on both banks of the Rhine River. The entire journey is picture-postcard worthy, and we would consider driving again at a much slower pace, making more stops and detours to visit select castles.

Note: Some castles and fortresses charge an entrance fee to visit inside.

In case you’re interested

We stayed in Koblenz, one of the most beautiful and historic cities on the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Read about what this wonderful city has to offer through the link below.

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.

The best way to see more of the Duoro Valley

There are many ways to discover Portugal’s Duoro Valley.  River cruises are always very enticing or, you can complete a day trip by train from the popular city of Porto. However, having spent a few days in this very special part of the world, we think the best way to see more of the Duoro Valley is by car.

Whether you’re a wine lover or not, you’ll find the Duoro Valley’s scenery breathtaking. Kilometres and kilometres of terraced vineyards rise high up into the mountains and small villages are scattered in between.

Peso de Regua

Peso de Regua is a busy city on the banks of the Duoro River and one of the gateways to the vineyards of the Valley. Our research determined that the best place to access the short river cruise was Regua. It was important to note though that the Duoro Valley is still relatively quiet after the pandemic and few river cruise operators were functioning while we were there. The one we hoped to book with required four passengers to make the cruise viable and we were the only two at the assigned departure time so missed the opportunity.

Not being able to cruise the river gave us an unexpected chance to see the Valley by road. In hindsight, we are so glad that fate intervened.

Regua
Scenes of the Valley and the Douro River from Regua

Only one large river cruise boat was in Port on the day we visited Regua. Although we got the feeling the town was used to catering for more in better times. Passengers boarded buses for afternoon tours around the Valley as we enjoyed the scenery from the dockside. Unfortunately, buses cannot access the roads that wind amongst the terraces. It’s a shame they will miss the best parts and views that can only be seen on these roads.

Pinhao

The drive from Peso de Regua to Pinhao, or vice versa, is rated as one of the most scenic drives in the world. And it lived up to expectations. If you’re fortunate, you may have an opportunity to watch a barge or riverboat work its way through the lock.

There was however a little traffic jam along the riverfront road. We had caught up with the Viking River Cruise tour buses and they were blocking the road as they manoeuvred their way out of town. Again, captivating scenery greeted us

Once you get to Pinhao, you’ll find it’s a sleepy town. In contrast to Pesa de Regua, Pinhao is a sleepy little town. However, you’ll find the scenery captivating.

Pinhao, Duoro Valley
Looking down the Douro River from Pinhao Railway Station

Another way to travel from Peso de Regua to Pinhao is by train. Many tourists also take the train journey from Porto on a day trip. Both journeys arrive a Pinhao’s train station which is a little gem to look at.

Take a break away from the breathtaking scenery to have a look at the blue tiles frontage and walk through the inside to have the stories of the region told by the painted blue tiles on the station platform.

Lamego

More terraces covered in grapevines accompanied us on the road to the small town of Lamego. It’s a slow 20-minute drive away from Pesa de Regua however, you will find that it’s like being in a different world. Small churches and manicured green parks in the middle of town where residents gathered gave this small town an air of gentrification.

Vila Real

We stumbled upon the town of Vila Real while looking for suitable accommodation. The sole representative at the town’s tourist office, who only spoke German and Spanish, conveyed to us in no uncertain terms that there was absolutely nothing to see in Vila Real!

We beg to differ. Agreed. You can visit the sights, which are primarily churches over an hour. A walk around the town area doesn’t take very long at all., an hour at a stroll. The old town area, however, has a vibe that we didn’t find in the other Duoro towns.

Pop into the market in the morning and that’s where you’ll find the locals. A wonderful atmosphere, stall owners calling out their specials to potential customers, men gathered in groups discussing whatever it is they discuss, and similarly, women gathered around vegetable stalls or sitting down for a gossip over coffee.

Dining options reflected a very local menu and included wines from the area in a relaxed environment.

One of the highlights of staying in Vila Real

If your stay happens to coincide with a Saturday evening in July and August, you’ll be in for a special treat. Every Saturday at 10:00 pm, you’ll find live entertainment in the main square. During our stay, we were treated to a brass band who were touring the Duroro from a small island in the Azores that entertained the township for 90 minutes or more.

Vila Real at night
Saturday night concert in the square

Palais Mateus

 Mateus Palais, Vila Real, Douro Valley
The elegant entrance to Palais Mateus

One of Portugal’s well know wines is Mateus. Busloads of tourists come to visit the beautiful Palais and gardens from Pesa de Regua, Pinhao and further afield. The Palais is located less than 5km from Vila Real and allows you to easily go to visit and appreciate the Palais and tranquil grounds with the surrounding vineyard before the busloads of tourists descend.

Mateus Palais, Vila Real
The beautifully manicured gardens of the Mateus Palais
Gardens at Mateus Palais

Wine tasting while in the Duoro Valley

When you’re surrounded by vineyards and wine tasting options it’s hard to decide which is the one for you.

You may prefer to take advantage of the whole experience by staying at one of the vineyards. We decided not to take this option so we could explore more of the Valley. However, should you have the time and prefer to, we’ve found this website provides credible opportunities.

Of course, like us, if you prefer to base yourself in one of the Duoro “towns”, then you can drive yourself between the many cellar doors to wine taste at your leisure.

Our conclusion

The Duoro Valley is one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Breathtaking scenery accompanied us wherever we went in the Valley.

The hidden hills and valleys of the Duoro Valley
Some of the scenery that can only be encountered when travelling by car in the Duoro Valley

We will definitely consider seeing the Valley on a river cruise in the future. However, for a first experience, travelling between the towns and driving in, around and out of the region by road allowed us to see so much scenery that can’t be reached by bus or boat, and take away memories that we had never imagined.

Hoping that we have encouraged you to visit the beautiful Duoro Valley on a road trip. We’re sure you’ll enjoy it as much as we did!

P.S. To help you plan your Duoro road itinerary, take a look at this website which offers some planned routes.

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