Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: self driving holidays

Why you’ll love visiting the magical town of Cochem

We were staying in the historic city of Koblenz at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers, setting aside one day to drive around the area surrounding Koblenz. In particular, the town of Cochem is a must-visit destination. Discover why you’ll love visiting the magical town of Cochem on the Moselle River.

The drive from Koblenz to Cochem

The one-hour drive from Koblenz to Cochem is filled with scenery. We wound our way along the Moselle River, catching glimpses of castles and small towns on the other side. Vineyards accompany us along the road and line the banks across the river.

Scenery on the drive betweeen Koblenz and Cochem in Germany
Scenery on the drive betweeen Koblenz and Cochem

Cochem

Picturesque Cochem is best known for its castle, half-timbered houses sitting in small squares, medieval cobblestone streets, vineyards and its riverside promenade.Spend a day wandering the streets, strolling the river promenade, or sitting at a cafe watching the activity around you. We spent a few hours in Cochem doing a little of each.

Reichsburg Castle

Reichsburg Castle perches majestically on the hill, towering over the town and surrounded by grapevines. It is the first thing you catch sight of as you drive around the bend.

Reichsburg Castle perched on the hill above Cochem, Germany
Reichsburg Castle perched on the hill above Cochem

A version of the castle has been on the site since the 12th century. It was heavily damaged during the Nine Years’ War in the late 17th century, and remained in ruin until the 19th century, when a wealthy Berlin businessman restored it.

A walk up the hill on a path from the town centre was the first thing to do on our itinerary. The terrace provided the perfect vantage point to gaze over the spectacular views of Cochem and the Moselle.

Why you'll love visiting the magical town of Cochem
Views over Cochem and the Moselle River from the Reichsburg Castle terrace

With much more to see, we didn’t take a tour of the castle’s interior. The castle tour takes about 40 minutes, leading you through the displays of tapestries, wood panelling, Baroque paintings, and armoury.

Reichsburg Castle, Cochem, Germany

A stroll around Cochem Altstadt

Back down in the old town, we meandered through the cobbled streets and alleys lined with beautiful old homes, stores and wine cellars to reach the main square (Marktplatz).

Beautiful half-timbered houses in Cochem's Altstadt
Beautiful half-timbered houses in Cochem’s Altstadt

Marktplatz is where you’ll find the Town Hall and the best collection of half-timbered houses in Cocham, along with Martinsbrunnen, the water fountain featuring St. Martin (the town’s patron saint) atop.

Enderttor City Gate

Wandering through the old town, we found ourselves at the city gate to find our perfect lunch spot, a busy little bakery with seating outside, from where we could eat our lunch, gazing at the Enderttor.

Endettor City Gate in Cochem. Germany
Endettor City Gate from our lunch venue

The largest of Cochem’s gates, built in 1332 with a guardhouse attached, Enderttor is one of the town’s major landmarks.

River promenade

Next to the old town, there’s a walkway next to the Moselle River that transforms into a pretty parkland path. as you walk further away. It’s a lovely spot to sit and watch the activity on the other side of the river. Walking back towards the town, you’ll find yourself looking up at the fantastic view of Cochem Castle up above.

Parkland by the riverfron promenade in Cochem, Germany
Parkland by the riverfron promenade in Cochem

On the promenade closer to the town, you’ll find tour boats offering cruises up and down the river, while across the road, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants to dine at while watching the river activity.

Next to the upper part of the old town, the riverside walkway broadens into a park, and just before the Skagerrak-Brücke (bridge), beside the quay for tour boats, you can turn back for the ultimate view of Cochem Castle on its high roost.

Skagerrak-Brucke

Views from the bridge in Cochem, Germany
Stunning views from the bridge

The Skagerrak Bridge offers one of the best views of the Castle perched above the town amongst the grapevines, as well as the township itself. We didn’t find much else on the other side of the bridge, however, but it was worth walking across for another perspective of the landscape.

Drop into a wine cellar in the Old Town

Surrounded by wineries, there is no better opportunity than in Cochem to visit a wine cellar or two for tasting and to buy some renowned local wine.

Wine cellar in Cochem, Germany
One of the wine cellars in the centre of Cochem, where we purchased some local wine

We took the opportunity to visit a couple of wine cellars where helpful staff explained the local varieties and assisted us in purchasing a few bottles of wine to enjoy later.

Our conclusion

Cochem was a wonderful choice to take a day excursion to. Its proximity to Koblenz meant that it was not an onerous drive to reach, while giving us a chance to experience the magic of this fairytale town. We highly recommend visiting o staying in the town if you’re planning a trip to the Rhine Valley.

One more thing…

While you’re in the area, be sure to make a side trip to see the romantic medieval Burg Eltz located in the mountains between Cochem and Koblenz.

After arriving at the parking lot, the beautifully maintained castle of turrets and towers is reached by a short walk on a forest trail after arriving at the car park. Alternatively, regular shuttle buses run between the car park and the castle.

On a sunny afternoon, we found the walk pleasant with the castle appearing impressively before us as we rounded a corner.

Eltz Burg in the Moselle Valley. near Cochem
Eltz Burg appeared out of nowhere in the countryside as we rounded a corner

The castle is one of the best medieval fortresses in Germany. Built over 900 years ago, it’s been owned by a branch of the Eltz family since its construction.

In case you’re interested

We visited Cochem on a day trip from our base in Koblenz, a beautiful city on the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers. We arrived in Koblenz by driving the scenic Rhine Castle Route. Read more about our time in the Rhine Valley and our recommendations by clicking on the links below.

Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany

Our first day in Germany, and the pick for our first stop on our drive to Koblenz, where we were staying, was Mainz, a short 35-minute drive from Frankfurt Airport. We weren’t disappointed. Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany, with us.

Sitting on the left bank of the Rhine River, Mainz is the official wine capital of Germany and is surrounded by the largest wine-growing area in the country.

The city has more to offer than just wine, though. It has an old city filled with historic buildings and monuments—one of the reasons why we picked the city as our first stop.

Our top things to do in Mainz

Spend time in the Marktplatz

As with any medieval city, the Marktplatz is the hub. Mainz was no exception. It was still early in the day; however, locals had started to emerge, gathering at the cafes in the square for coffee.

Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany. Colourful buildings in the Marktplatz of Mainz in Germany
The colourful buildings in the Marktplatz

A blend of coloured and decorated gabled houses stands opposite the most distinctive building in the square, the Mainz Cathedral.

Marktbrunnen Fountain

We took a closer look at the Marktbrunnen, an ornate three-columned fountain built, like the cathedral, of red sandstone, before we visited inside the cathedral. The fountain sits to one side, in a corner of the square and was built in the 16th century.

Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain standing in the Markplatz of Mainz, Germany
Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain

The fountain was commissioned by the elector Albert of Mainz and crafted by the Mainz sculptor Hans Backoffen. The Marktbrunnen is one of the first Renaissance fountains in Germany.

The Prince-Elector had the fountain built to commemorate his successful survival of the “Peasants’ War” of 1525 and to seal the deal with the adoption of the 31 articles of grievance that the peasants demanded from their ruler.

Mainz Cathedral

St Martin, the Romanesque cathedral, is over a 1000 years old. The red sandstone building with its six distinguishing towers, including an octagonal tower, dominates the Altstadt.

Mainz Cathedral, Germany
Mainz Cathedral

Built in 975 AD, the interior of the cathedral is as impressive as the exterior. The interior has a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture and ornate tombs of prince-electors and archbishops. The small, well-manicured cloister is also accessible to the public.

The interior of Mainz Cathderal in the German city of Mainz
The cloister of Mainz Cathedral in the German city of Mainz
The pretty cloister

The cathedral also has a museum section with religious artefacts and items from the treasury.

The Gutenberg Museum

The Gutenberg Museum honours the inventor of the printing press, Johannes Gutenberg

Instead of visiting the museum, we opted to explore more of Mainz’s outdoor attractions; however, when researching things to do in Mainz, the museum was highlighted as a great place for book lovers and history enthusiasts. It has two of the 49 remaining Gutenberg Bibles, as well as a working reproduction of Gutenberg’s press.

In 1946, the city’s university, which was founded in 1477, was renamed Johannes Gutenberg University to honour the publisher.

Walk a little further to Schillerplatz

Next, we walked to another significant square, Schillerplatz. Lined with notable palaces, the square is named after the poet Friedrich Schiller, whose statue stands in the centre.

Another notable feature in the square is the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain standing in the centre of the square. The fountain is decorated with 200 quirky bronze statues celebrating the Mainz Carnival, which starts in the square on 11 November every year.

Schillerplatz in Mainz, Germany
Schillerplatz is surrounded by beautiful, noble houses with the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain in its centre

With its colourful garden beds and benches under shady trees, the square is the perfect spot to relax and take a breather when exploring the city in the summer.

Old Town (Altstadt)

Mainz’s Old Town is a great place to explore. It’s full of narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses and some lovely squares.

St Stephan’s Church

St. Stephen’s Church is located above the old town. We walked up to this Gothic church, renowned for its stunning blue stained glass windows. The nine windows, created between 1978 and 1985, depict scenes from the Old Testament and fill the space with a blue glow.

Disappointingly, the church was closed to visitors when we arrived, and we were unable to visit inside. Instead, we enjoyed some of the views over Mainz from the church’s terrace.

Mainz Rhine Promenade

After exploring the sights around the old town, we strolled to the promenade alongside the Rhine River. It’s a beautiful spot to take in the scenery and watch the river and cargo boats go by.

Our conclusion

Mainz is unquestionably a town we would have liked to have had the time to explore further. It’s a city full of history, culture, monuments and landmarks, coupled with picturesque scenery.

A visit to Mainz is a great way to start your exploration of the scenic Rhine Valley vineyards and Castle route.

In case you’re interested

We stayed for several nights in Koblenz to explore the historic city, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Read about this fascinating city through the link below.

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit

With a long history, scenic landscape, and surrounded by mountain ranges and vineyards, the city was the first stop on our driving tour of Germany. Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.

Koblenz sits conveniently at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers. This makes it the perfect city from which to explore the greater Rhine and Moselle valleys.

Koblenz

Koblenz, founded by the Romans and with a history spanning over 2,000 years of various rulers, has evolved into a treasure trove for its visitors.

Our top things to do in Koblenz

Jesuitenplatz

In the heart of Koblenz’s Altstadt is a square named for the Jesuit order. The order was part of the city’s community for almost 200 years, until they were expelled from the city in 1773. The Baroque building and portal on one side of the square, formerly the Jesuit College, is the Town Hall.

Jesuitenplatz, Koblenz, Germany
Jesuitenplatz

Take some time to look out for the small Jesuit Church built in the 1610s, which stands quietly in the corner of the square. It’s easy to miss!

Visit the History Column in Görresplatz Square

Another lovely square in Koblenz’s old town is Görresplatz. Surrounded by beautiful buildings, the square’s main highlight is the History Column.

The History Column in Görresplatz Square, Koblenz, Germany
The History Column in Görresplatz Square

The fountain was built in 1992, marking the 2000th anniversary of the city. A column recounts the city’s detailed history. The scenes depicted on it span from Roman times to the Middle Ages, the Electorate (see the section on the Electorate Palace below), the French occupation, and up to the present day.

Deutsche Eck Monument

Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit
The Deutsches Eck Monument on the riverfront in Koblenz

The Deutsche Eck Monument celebrates two important features of Koblenz: the spot where the Moselle and Rhine Rivers meet, and the large statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. It pays tribute to the German emperor, who was the first head of state of a united Germany.

Basilica of St Castor

The Basilica’s twin towers peek out from between the trees a short distance from the Deutsches Eck. It’s the oldest church in Koblenz.

Basilica of St Castor in Koblenz, Germany
Basilica of St Castor

Most of the architecture dates back to the 12th century. Like other parts of the city, some sections of the Basilica were damaged during World War II, but they were reconstructed to their original condition.

Wander around the pleasant gardens in the complex behind the Church building.

The gardens of the Basilica of St Castor in Koblenz, Germany
The gardens of the Basilica of St Castor

Florinsmarkt Square

Another Altstadt square to pass through is Florinsmarkt Square. Formerly the political and economic centre of the city, it houses four historic buildings. Unfortunately, three were in a state of disrepair, boarded up and in need of major renovation when we visited. The only building of significance which has survived the times is the old shopping and dancing hall. It stands proudly at the back of the square.

The shopping and dancing hall building in Florinsmarkt, Koblenz, Germany
The shopping and dancing hall building in Florinsmarkt

Under the tower clock, there’s a small inlay of a knight. The knight’s eyes move back and forth in time with the clock’s pendulum and sticks out its tongue every full and half hour. Legend says he is reminiscent of the robber baron Johann Lutter von Kobern, who was executed on the Florinsmarkt in 1536. Apparently, he twisted his eyes on the scaffold and stuck his tongue out at the spectators.

Walk along the riverfront promenade

A walk along Konrad Adenauer-Ufer Kastorhof, gazing up at the fortress on the hill across the river, is the perfect way to savour some downtime in Koblenz.

At the far end, away from Deutsches Eck, you’ll see the imposing Prussian Government Building. It cuts a striking imperial presence on the waterfront. Inside are monumental staircases with vaulted halls and outstanding stonework.

The former Prussian Government Building in Koblenz, Germany
The former Prussian Government Building

Today, the building houses the Presidium of the Federal Office of Bundeswehr Equipment, Information Technology and In-Service Support (BAAINBw). The southern part has housed the Koblenz Higher Regional Court since 1993.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

High above on the right bank of the Rhine, looking across over the city, is Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. There has been a fortress here since the 11th century.

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, Koblenz, Germany
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress on the hill overlooking Koblenz

After hundreds of years of changing rulers and destruction, the current fortress was reconstructed by the Prussians and is now the second largest in Europe.

The best way to access the fortress is by taking the scenic cable car ride from the Konrad Adenauer-Ufer Kastorhof promenade. A bonus is the spectacular scenery over Koblenz on the way to and from the fortress.

Views from Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, Koblenz, Germany
Views from Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

The fortress buildings are now home to the Koblenz State Museum. Even if you’re not interested in museums, it’s worth crossing the river for the panoramic view of the city. There’s also a wooden viewing platform which gives expansive views of the city and the rivers.

Electoral Palace

We found the groundkeepers hard at work tending the gardens of the grand building, which is not far from the riverfront promenade.

Prince Clemens Wenceslaus built the Electoral Palace (you’ll find his statue on the street leading to the Palace) over nearly 20 years from 1777 to 1793. The Palace was taken over by the Prussians in 1815 after the Prince was forced to leave Koblenz after the French Revolution. For the next 100 years, it was a residence for Prussian royals for 100 years.

The Electoral Palace, Koblenz, Germany
The Electoral Palace

The building was damaged by a bombing during WWII and rebuilt to its original structure, but it became evident as we moved closer that the building was abandoned. Paint was peeling from the facade, and it no longer looked as majestic as close-up.

One of the groundsmen approached us as we peered through the windows to ascertain the state of the interior. He indicated that we could walk through an entrance from which we could access the gardens on the other side.

The riverfront gardens of the Electoral Palace in Koblenz, Germany
The riverfront gardens of the Electoral Palace

While the building was indeed in a state of disrepair, we are thankful for the encounter with a groundsman who found us peering through the windows into the building. He indicated that we could walk through an entrance into a hallway, from which we could access the beautifully terraced gardens in front of the river

Visit a biergarten

On a hot summer day, after visiting the sights around the city, there is nothing better than enjoying the river breezes while sampling local beer at the biergarten on the Koblenz riverfront. It’s the perfect place from which to watch the riverboats cruise by, people-watch, and have a banter with the locals.

Where we stayed

We booked a charming apartment in the heart of the Altstadt, which was within walking distance of all sights and attractions and close to the river.

The apartment was spacious for the two of us, tastefully decorated, and featured a balcony. Our host met us on-site to provide access and assistance to the garage. The “icing on the cake” was the bottle of local wine that our host had generously left for us to enjoy. A lovely welcome gift for our first night in Germany!

Things to do around Koblenz

Burgos – an unexpected treasure in northern Spain

We wanted to stop somewhere to break up our drive across northern Spain from southern France to the Douro Valley, Portugal. Burgos looked like a sensible choice. We thought it would be a dusty sleepy town with little to do. Instead, we were surprised to find Burgos – an unexpected treasure in northern Spain!

Burgos Old Town

It was a hot summer afternoon when we arrived. A blast of 43-degree heat accompanied us to our accommodation in the city’s old town. We waited patiently in the shade of a shopfront for our host who arrived 30 minutes later.

After settling in and undeterred by the heat, we went to the Tourist Office. Outside, the streets were still empty. A helpful staff member loaded us with information on everything we could do in the city. She encouraged us to take advantage of the complimentary entrance to monuments on Tuesdays.

Plaza Mayor

Temperatures were still high so the best thing to do was find the city’s Plaza Mayor for a cool beverage. The Plaza is eye-catching with its colourful facades and arcaded buildings including the Town Hall. People had started to emerge for an evening walk and to gather in the square.

Plaza Mayor, Burgos
The colourful buildings in Plaza Mayor

We found a tapas bar in the Plaza to enjoy a thirst-quenching Sangria. A light breeze encouraged us to remain there for our evening meal to enjoy watching people coming and going. However, an alternative had to be found. The bar’s kitchen was closed due to a staff shortage.

Leaving reluctantly, we settled for a simple burger and fries meal at Goiko (they offer vegetarian and vegan options) in another pretty plaza, Plaza Alonso-Martinez.

Plaza Santa Maria and Cathedral de Burgos

Lured by the soothing sounds of the handpan we walked to Plaza Santa Maria after dinner and stared in awe at the stunning Cathedral de Burgos. The Plaza was bustling with locals, Spanish tourists, and Camino de Santiago pilgrims.

Plaza Santa Maria, Burgos, Spain
Locals and pilgrims gather in front of the Cathedral in Plaza Santa Maria

The Gothic Cathedral was built between 1221 and 1567 replacing the original 9th-century church. Inside you’ll find numerous decadent chapels and ornate altarpieces. It is also the burial place of El Cid, a famous Castillian leader during the 11th century

Cathedral de Burgos by night
Cathedral de Burgos by night

The queue to enter was long including plenty of Camino pilgrims who had arrived after an arduous day of walking. The Cathedral is considered one of the five most emblematic churches on the Camino. We decided to forego a visit inside the Cathedral during this visit as we expected to return to Burgos when walking the full Camino de Santiago the following year. Instead, we enjoyed circumnavigating the Cathedral several times admiring its beautiful exterior during our stay.

The following morning, we arrived in the Plaza to find it transformed for the start of the Vuelta a Burgos, an elite annual cycling race. The Cathedral was even more stunning in daylight.

Burgos - an unexpected treasure in northern Spain
The Cathedral de Burgos was the backdrop for the Vuelta a Burgos

Castillo de Burgos

Our next stop was the Castillo de Burgos ruins located at the top of a small hill accessed from behind the Cathedral. The castle was built in the 9th century because of its strategic location. Today visitors walk to the Mirador (lookout) which provides panoramic views over the city, the Cathedral and beyond.

Views from the Mirador at Castillo de Burgos, Burgos, Spain
Views from the Mirador at Castillo de Burgos

The 10-15 minute walk up to the Castillo is along pleasant paved pathways and a roadside surrounded by trees. At the halfway point preparations for the Vuelta competition were being made. The Vuelta cyclists traverse the hill as part of the race course.

Arco de Santa Maria

Returning to ground level, we continued through Plaza Santa Maria to the Arco de Santa Maria. It was one of the twelve original medieval entrances into the old town.

An exhibition space inside the arch hosts temporary art and cultural exhibitions.

Arco de Santa Maria, Burgos, Spain
The ornate Arco de Santa Maria

The stone facade on the riverside is the highlight of the archway. The carvings represent some of the city’s noble figures and leaders in history.

Paseo de Marceliana Sana Maria

Paseo de Marceliano Santa Maria, Burgos, Spain
The tree-lined Paseo de Marceliano Santa Maria

From the Arco, we continued through a tree-lined park, Paseo de Marceliano Santa Maria running beside the River Arlanzon. It’s a pretty spot shaded by trees and lined with bench seats where locals sit amongst statues of historical figures. It’s the perfect place to stop for a rest on a hot day.

Statue of El Cid and Puente de San Pablo

Further on, we found the legendary Spanish hero El Cid statue standing in the middle of Plaza del Mio Cid. Traffic circles the statue to access the surrounding streets and the grand Teatro Principal stands on one side. The theatre was refurbished and revived in 1997 after being in ruins for 50 years.

Statue of El Cid and Puente de San Pablo, Burgos, Spain
Statue of El Cid and Puente de San Pablo

Puente de San Pablo was a short distance away and is one of twelve bridges crossing the Arlanzon River. Flooding of the river over the centuries has meant that the bridge has been rebuilt many times. On the walk over the bridge we were accompanied by statues of central figures related to El Cid called the Ciclo Cidian.

Museum of Human Evolution

The Museum of Human Evolution is on the other side of Puente de San Pablo. It holds archaeological finds from Atapuerca, where the oldest human remains in Europe were found. We decided to forego a visit and instead walked along the riverside path towards the Miraflores Monastery which is 4km outside of Burgos.

Monasterio de Santa Maria la Real delas Huelgas

The Church of the Monastario delas Huelgas, Burgos, Spain
The Church of the Monastario delas Huelgas, Burgos, Spain

Our morning walk the next day took us through leafy suburbs and to the Monasterio de las Huelgas. The monastery of Cistercian nuns is located 1.5km west of the city. Founded in the 12th century, it’s a beautiful tranquil Romanesque church and monastery complex. The museum houses medieval textiles and royal tombs. The Codex of the Huelgas, a rare musical manuscript dating back to the 14th century is one of the monastery’s prized possessions.

The courtyard of the Monastario de las Huelgas, Burgos, Spain
The courtyard of the Monastario de las Huelgas

Across from Plaza del Compas, we loved the old homes and shopfronts on Calle Alfonso VIII. It felt like we’d stepped back in time. There was not a soul around when we walked along the street.

The beautiful homes and shopfronts on Calle Alfonso VIII across from the monastery complex

Exploring the famous Castilian vineyards

One hour south of Burgos is one of Spain’s greatest wine regions, Ribera del Duero. We drove through the countryside surrounded by vineyards to Bodega Portia, one of the area’s most renowned wineries. Much of the day was spent at the winery and vineyards sampling exquisite wines over lunch in their restaurant.

Whether or not you’re a wine connoisseur, we think it’s worthwhile visiting to see the extraordinary architecture of the wineries in the region.

Bodega Portia, Ribera del Duero, Spain
Bodega Portia

Our accommodation

Our apartment advertised itself as “a special apartment in the historical centre of Burgos” It was large, modern, comfortable, clean and true to the description on a beautiful street lined with shops at ground level and apartments with glass-enclosed patios in the heart of the old town.

Where to sample the best tapas

Calle Avellanos in the heart of Burgos is lined with tapas bars. We thoroughly enjoyed our evening at La Comtienda and highly recommend it. We sat outside to journal over pre-dinner drinks where each wine or beer ordered was accompanied by tapas. For dinner, we went inside for a variety of delectable share plates.

Burgos – an unexpected treasure in northern Spain

Our perception that northern Spanish towns are sleepy towns with little to offer was changed by our stay in Burgos. Burgos is an elegant city with a historical centre filled with beautiful 15th and 16th-century buildings to explore, unique regional cuisine and exquisite wines.

With much still left to explore we were excited to be returning while walking the full Camino de Santiago the following year.

If you’re looking for a Spanish destination that remains undiscovered by international tourists, then Burgos is the city to visit. It’s a secret destination that only Spanish tourists know about.

We found Burgos to be an unexpected treasure in northern Spain!

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