Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: Spain (Page 4 of 4)

Walking the full Camino de Santiago – Days 1 and 2

We made our way from the railway station to Rue de France, the starting point for the ‘Camino’ after arriving in St Jean Pied de Port by train from Paris via Bordeaux and Bayonne to commence walking the full Camino de Santiago, the Way of St James (Camino Frances).

Our small hotel, Hotel Restaurante Ramuntcho was on the street corner and our room, like most accommodations in St. Jean, was small but cosy. The hotels and hostels here mainly cater for Camino walkers like us who are in town for just an overnight stay.

During the day, many campers and daytrippers visit St. Jean and the surrounding countryside to enjoy the lush greenery and escape the heat of the cities. The town’s streets and cafes are bustling with activity.

Before long the daytrippers move on to leave the town for the pilgrims to explore, buy any last-minute items, visit the Pilgrim’s Office to collect their pilgrim passport or like us, walk up to the Citadel for its scenic views of the countryside around St Jean Pied de Port or walk over the picturesque old Roman Bridge over the River Nive called Pilgrim’s Bridge.

Pilgrim's Bridge, which all pilgrims cross to commence the Camino de Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port
Pilgrim’s Bridge, which all pilgrims cross to commence the Camino de Santiago from St. Jean Pied de Port

Day 1 – St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

Filled with excitement and a hint of nervousness, we were prepared to leave by 8 a.m. the next morning when it started raining heavily. Fifteen minutes later, as the dark clouds loomed overhead and concerned about the possibility of more wet weather we donned our rain jackets and set off. Eager pilgrims had left earlier, leaving only a couple of other stragglers like us departing over St. Jean’s Pilgrim’s Bridge.

Orisson

The first eight kilometres to Orisson are challenging, the trek uphill starting almost as soon as we leave St. Jean on terrain that varies between dirt tracks and tarmac roads. Hiking poles helped to take the pressure off our legs and provided stability as we maintained a slow and steady pace. The surrounding farmland and the scenery provided a good distraction, even with cloud cover.

Orisson is a small hamlet in the Pyrenees and consists of a single building, Orisson Refuge. The Refuge offers overnight accommodations for pilgrims who want to break up the long and arduous day of walking over the Pyrenees, making it an excellent way to embark on the trek. A café caters to hikers who choose to complete the crossing in one day. The large deck provides sweeping views of the surrounding countryside.

We planned to stop at Orisson for lunch since there are no facilities between Orisson and Roncesvalles. We arrived there within two hours. Some hikers who had started earlier in the morning had already arrived, and we recognized many faces from the day before. Even though it was still mid-morning we opted for an early lunch and a comfort break before continuing our journey.

Refuge Orisson is the only established stop on the first day of the Camino from St Jeand Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Refuge Orisson is the only established stop on the first day of the Camino from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

We quickly find ourselves enveloped in a thick mist, we ascend higher after leaving Orisson. Our visibility was sometimes reduced to a mere 10-20 meters, making single walkers ahead appear like ghostly figures approaching us instead of moving forward. We could hear cowbells ringing in the distance, but the herds were nowhere in sight.

Onward to Roncesvalles

After a few hours, a pile of stones emerged from the mist with a sign indicating the way to Roncevalles (Roncevaux in French). Other pilgrims arrived and pondered whether this was the right path. The route passed through pastures while a tarmac road was only a few metres away. We consulted our trip notes and they confirmed that we should take the farm track, so we set off. As we continued, we looked back but saw no one else following us. Despite this, we marched on with confidence.

As we walked along, the track became increasingly misty and muddy. We came across a flock of sheep lazily sitting on the path. We followed a couple of stray sheep for a while, we soon lost sight of them and continued. It seemed like we were the only ones around until we stumbled upon two people taking a break on a stone bench in a damp rest area. Feeling reassured, we trudged through a long stretch of muddy track that led us downhill. Once again, we saw no one until a pair of young pilgrims caught up with us and passed us.

The trail suddenly opened to a dirt and gravel path, and the mist lifted, revealing the way ahead. Although there was still a lot of uphill and downhill walking, we could now see where we were heading.

After reaching the highest point for the day, Col de Leopoeder (1450m), we took a break and observed other hikers starting their challenging descent down a rocky path. The descent was more difficult than the ascent, but we appreciated trekking through a stunning beech forest before arriving at our lodging in Roncesvalles. And the sun was finally out.

Roncesvalles

Roncesvalles is a tiny hamlet with a few buildings comprising a monastery including a church, Iglesia de la Colegiata de Santa Maria, an Albergue (hostel) and a monastery museum. Our overnight stay is in Casa de los Beneficiados, a modern apartment hotel located in the old pilgrim’s hospital within the complex.

After freshening up we took a stroll around the complex but it was not long before we were driven inside with more rain. There was no choice but to go and journal over a glass of wine in the bar where we met a couple we had seen hiking the trail earlier in the day and then again on the final stretch to Roncesvalles. We had such a good time exchanging our day’s experience that we continued over dinner.

The monastery complex in Roncesvalles
The monastery complex in Roncesvalles

The first day of the Camino Frances is deemed to be the toughest because of the steep ascent and equally steep descent into the Spanish town of Roncesvalles. The views and scenery on a good day are meant to be spectacular. Being shrouded in mist nearly all the way meant we missed what was supposed to be a picturesque crossing over the Pyrenees from France into Spain. We were grateful however not to have to complete it in the rain.

Walking statistics

  • 24.6km
  • 7 hours including stops

Day 2 – Roncesvalles to Akaretta

After enjoying a satisfying breakfast, we were ready for another day of walking. The sun was shining and the trail was visible. We crossed the street and saw a road sign for drivers that read “Santiago de Compostela – 790km.” Our journey began on level ground, with the trail running parallel to the road.

Before long we entered a beautiful forest filled with beech and oak trees, we learned that it was known as The Witches Forest. White witches used to gather there before they were persecuted in the 16th century. We found the La Cruz Blanca outside the forest – a cross for travellers’ divine protection.

Walking along trails through meadows, surrounded by green hills and wooded areas, we pass through several small towns in quick succession:

  • Burguete – a township of whitewashed houses known as Hemingway’s village because the writer loved to visit the town for trout fishing
  • Espinal – a resident greets walkers and directs them to his café tucked away off the main street.
  • Biskarreta or Guerendiain, in Basque – A charming town where we stroll, reading engraved plaques that reveal the date and history of each house.
The church in Burguette
The church – a pretty scene in Burguete

Zubiri

After trekking for 22 kilometres, many hikers opt to spend the night in Zubiri, also known as the “town of the bridge.” As we crossed the Puente de la Rabia bridge, we saw groups of hikers enjoying the riverbank or taking a refreshing dip in the water. Zubiri has been around since 1040 and relies on the pilgrims passing through and the magnesite factory which we pass on our way out of town.

Camino hikers cooling off by the river in Zubiri
Camino hikers cooling off by the river in Zubiri

The town is modern and ideal for a rest, lunch of Spanish tortillas and coffee before continuing 6km to Akerreta for our overnight stop.

We cross back over the bridge to get back on the track and after a walk uphill, we’re back on level ground for a time walking through woods alongside the river and pretty meadows lined with wildflowers and spotted with hay bales. There’s one more small town to pass through, Larrasoana, an old monastery town where only the 13th-century church remains. We stopped to stamp our pilgrims’ passports to find the church closed but the stamp and stamp pad set up on a ledge at the entrance.

Pretty wildflower lined paths alongside meadows accompanied us from Zubiri to Akarreta
Pretty wildflower-lined paths alongside meadows accompanied us from Zubiri to Akarreta

Akerreta

One final steep walk uphill on a tarmac road finds us in the tiny settlement of Akerreta (pop 10), and our accommodation, Hotel Akerreta, is right in the centre.

Hotel Akaretta on the Camino de Santiago
Hotel Akarreta – lovely accommodation and facilities, and gracious hosts

There is not much else to amuse us in the town but the hotel, an 18th-century Basque farmhouse rates a special mention. A family-run hotel is well set up with cosy seating areas and rooms overlooking the countryside. There’s a charming lounge area downstairs with a fireplace where guests can enjoy the picturesque views and relax.

It’s been a long day and once we’re settled in, that’s precisely what we do over pre-dinner cocktails while journalling. Our pre-departure research on the hotel revealed that in 2009, the hotel had been the setting for filming of the movie, The Way starring Martin Sheen. The owner’s daughter, who is on duty regales stories about the making of the movie in the hotel and the star and crew staying in the hotel.

We seem to be the only guests at the hotel until dinnertime when another couple appear to join us in the rustic restaurant. They are not pilgrims but a Dutch couple who are exploring the countryside around Akeretta.

A delicious three-course dinner featuring vegetables and fruit picked from the hotel’s organic garden and products from local producers is a highlight.

With a comfortable bed to sleep in, it was a very satisfying end to a long day.

The highlight of the day

We’ve been seeing a cyclist struggling up the rocky, steep Camino tracks to Akarreta. We encounter him again as we walk up the final hill of the day. He’s loaded with panniers but remains positive and friendly. He leaves us with the wise words, “When you’re in nature, everything is fine.”.

Walking statistics

  • 29km
  • 8 hours including stops

Everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago

Contemplating completing all or part of the Camino de Santiago? Learn everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago here.

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

Planning on visiting Malaga or Seville? Read on to find out why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

Southern Spain is speckled with pueblo blancos (white towns). Each has its own character and it’s hard not to get caught up visiting all of them. If you’re short on time, Ronda is the one town to visit.

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

We chose Ronda as our base for several days because of its point of difference from the other white villages.

Steeped in history, the city sits on two sides of a deep gorge connected by a fantastic bridge—the bridge, Puento Nuevo (new bridge) was built in 1793.

Our apartment was located in Plaza Espana next to Puento Nuevo, with an added “wow” factor. Our expansive patio looked out over the magnificent Sierra de las Nieves! The Tourist Office around the corner from our apartment armed us with a map and options on how to spend our time in the town.

Views to the Sierra de las Nieves from Ronda
Views of the Sierra de las Nieves from our apartment patio

We were fortunate to arrive on a Saturday when a free flamenco concert was being held in Ronda’s Old Town.

A summer evening in Ronda

The views from both sides of the bridge are dramatic, and it is the first place to stop to soak in the scenery before you explore the old town.

In the Old Town, we followed the sound of music down some cobblestone alleys to appear at an open-air area where the rehearsal was in progress. Moving on, we stopped in a pretty square to visit the cathedral, Santa Maria de la Mayor. An added pleasure was watching a wedding party emerge.

The plaza offers several restaurants if you’d like to eat in the quiet precinct. We opted for the low-key garden restaurant to try a few of the local dishes on offer. The food portions are large and delicious.

Back at the concert venue, we found the seats were filling up fast. Instead of sitting down with the audience, we decided to sit on the ledge above to watch people and observe. By 10:00 pm, the arena was full. Concertgoers came dressed for the occasion and the atmosphere was jovial as the concert commenced.

We left after an hour, wishing we understood the language better so we could have enjoyed the music, singing and dancing as much as the locals did.

The Cathedral was spectacularly lit up as we passed by on the way back to our apartment. At 11:30 pm. townsfolk were still out and about in droves, and the town was buzzing. Just one of the benefits of visiting in the summer months.

Things to do in incredible Ronda

Enjoy the dramatic views from Mirador Aldehuela

Mirador Aldehuela is on the Old Town side of Puento Nuevo and directly opposite Plaza Espana. We recommend that it’s one of the first things you do. The dramatic views down to the Guadelevin River flowing at the bottom of the gorge surrounded by the cliff formations are jaw-dropping.

Views of the gorge, Ronda, Spain
Views of the gorge from Mirador Aldehuela

Take in the evening views of Puento Nuevo

For another perspective of Puento Nuevo, stroll along Mirador de Aves via the pathway from Plaza Espana in the evening.

It’s a great place to linger as the sun goes down. As darkness falls and the lights around the gorge turn on, highlighting the bridge. The bridge looked spectacular, and the gorge seemed rather eery.

Puento Nuevo, Ronda at night
Puento Nuevo, Ronda at night

Take a hike in the El Tajo Gorge

Morning dawned with hot air balloons hovering over our balcony. They skimmed across the sky to hover above the gorge and valley. The views must be unique from above.

The Tourist Office recommended hiking the Molinos del Tajo route, which leads down from the Old Town into the El Tajo Gorge. This would be the best way to experience the town’s distinctive qualities. We took their recommendation and were not disappointed.

Views of Ronda's Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge
Views of Ronda’s Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge

The main path takes you to the waterfall just below the bridge with some viewpoints providing breathtaking views of the bridge. You can then walk some of the quieter paths leading further downhill to capture bridge views from different angles before circumnavigating to the other side of town towards the old Roman bridge and visiting the Arab Baths. We returned to the township via Jardines de Cuenca, and the spectacular viewpoints spread at intervals across the gardens before emerging in Plaza Espana from the other end of the Puento Nuevo.

The early morning is the perfect time to do the two-hour walk, especially if you are visiting in summer. The temperature is cool, and, at this time of the day, there are not many people on the trails. It provides a wonderful opportunity to savour the views from the lookouts and take unobstructed photos.

Step inside the Arab Baths and walk over the Roman Bridge

If you follow the walking route around to the eastern side of the town, you’ll end up at the Arab Baths.

Relatively intact, the baths provide a peek into the Moorish heritage of the town. This part of town was originally the main entrance into Ronda, and the baths sat just outside the city walls and next to the Mosque. Locals and visitors would stop to cleanse their bodies at the baths before going to the Mosque

A little further around the corner, you’ll find more another remnant of old Ronda with the Roman Bridge at the original entrance to Ronda.

The Roman Bridge, Ronda, Spain
A couple look over the Arab bath site from the old Roman Bridge

Visit the Plaza de Toros

One of the oldest in Spain, Ronda’s bullring stands as a centrepiece as you enter the Old Town. Two statues honouring two sons of the town stand at the entrance. Statues honouring two of the town’s famous matadors, a father (Antonio Ordonez) and son (Cayetano Ordonez) stand proudly at the entrance. With bullfighting falling out of favour in recent times, the bullring serves mainly as a museum these days. Bullfighting is, however, embedded in the culture of the town and once a year in September, the Plaza de Toros truly comes to life when the Feria de Pedro Romero is held along with several others in southern Spain.

The bullring, Plaza de Toros, Ronda, Spain
Ronda’s bullring, Plaza de Toros

Mirador de Ronda – scenic lookout of the gorge and mountains

A few minutes’ stroll from Plaza Espana, and through the flower gardens is another lookout to the amazing mountain ranges and the gorge. For spectacular sunset views, take a seat on the steps of the rotunda from where you can watch one of the world’s best sunsets.

Visit Setenil de las Bodegas

The small white village of Setenil de las Bodegas is a twenty-minute drive from Ronda and worth a visit whether you are staying in Ronda or just hopping from one white town to another on your way through southern Spain.

Why? Setenil is not just another white village and is unique in its own right for the town’s hilltop castle, which was once an Arab fortress. Even more, it is famous because of the village houses built into the rock and cliffside.

Setenil de las Bodegas
Dwellings built into the cliff face in Setenil de las Bodegas

The village is very popular for its culinary fare. The original houses built into the cliff are now mostly tavernas or restaurants serving the chorizo sausages that the village is famous for. We arrived in the village for a late afternoon visit to find the village still brimming with tourists.

Once you’ve had a wander around the area below, follow the steps up to a small lookout to take a seat and survey the pueblo from above. You’ll find it a great vantage point to view the castle/fortress.

Setenil de las Bodegas lookout, Ronda, Spain
Views of the castle and township from the lookout

Shopping on Carrera Espinel

Carerra Espinel is a one-kilometre pedestrian street with shopping for all budgets. However, Carrera Espinel is worth a walk down for its festive spirit. Part of the way along veer into the pretty Plaza del Socorro, where you’ll find a few dining options and the Inglesia del Sirocco. It’s a pretty square in an incredible town!

Plaza del Socorro, Ronda, Spain
Plaza del Socorro, Ronda, Spain

Our conclusion

Steeped in history and jaw-dropping scenery, Ronda was true to all that we had read about the town and the amazing photography we had seen when researching places to visit in southern Spain. Ronda did not disappoint!

You simply should not leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda!

One more thing

Looking for more pueblo blancos to visit. Click on the link below to read more.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

When researching where to visit in southern Spain, places like Seville, Malaga and Granada frequently arose. We have found another area to include on your itinerary. See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

The white villages (pueblos blancos) are easily visited from Seville, Cadiz or Malaga on a day visit. The best way to appreciate them and their atmosphere (each varies) is to stay in one. We based ourselves in Ronda and stopped at a few villages on the way there. Here are some that stood out for us.

Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez de la Frontera is the largest of the white villages/towns and is famous for two things:

  • the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art and breeding and training horses; and
  • producing some of the best sherry in the world.

Vineyards accompanied us on the road and on reaching the Jerez, we found it brimming with bodegas (cellars). Producers here make sherry from a particular grape variety (Palamino) which grows in the chalky soil of this part of Spain. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you are looking for tasting cellars. Look out for the area’s most famous brand, Tio Pepe which stands prominently on the hillside as you drive into the town.

We weren’t in Jerez to taste the sherry or check out the equestrian centre. We wanted to visit the old town. Vehicular access is prohibited so we parked outside the zone, an extra dimension to our visit. Derelict houses lined the alleys and streets as we walked towards what we hoped was the central plaza. What the city may have to offer a visitor was questionable!

The backstreets of Jerez de la Frontera
The backstreets of Jerez de la Frontera

Ten minutes of winding through the alleys brought us to a quiet main road which we followed a short way uphill. Suddenly out of nowhere, Plaza de la Asuncion appeared. A small but charming old square with a significant history. A 15th-century Gothic Mudejar-style church, the Church of San Dionisio is on one side, the former town hall dating back to the 16th century, on another. In the middle, you’ll find the Monumento a la Asuncion.

A short walk along the lane took us to one of the most important squares in Jerez de la Frontera, Plaza del Arenal. It’s the heart of the old town and was once the scene of fights and duels in the 16th century. These days, it’s a beautiful open space hosting statues of renowned identities surrounded by beautiful old buildings. The colourful carousel in the corner adds to its charm and vibrancy.

Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez de la Frontera

We came across the striking Jerez Cathedral. It’s a beautiful building dating back to the 17th century combining Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Classical styles towering over the street as we returned to the car.

Jerez Cathedral, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
Jerez Cathedral

Arcos de la Frontera

Arcos de la Frontera is one of the lesser-visited white towns. Set on a hilltop, we detoured slightly north from Cadiz to Ronda to explore this hilltop town.

Parking in Plaza del Cabildo is limited and narrow alleyways to navigate on the hill. We decided to find a car park in the town area below (Hint: bring good walking shoes to make your way uphill on the cobbled pathway). The views of the white town as we walked towards more than made up for taking the steep incline on a hot summer morning.

Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera, Spain
Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Plaza del Cabildo

The main street, Calle Cuesta Belen took us to our first stop, Plaza del Cabildo. Beautiful buildings surround this main square on three sides (Basilica de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, Castillo Ducal, the town hall and the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera, a hotel). The Mirador del Cono is the highlight of the Plaza. It serves as a cliffside balcony to look out over the Rio Guadalete.

Explore the narrow alleyways

One of the highlights of our visit to Arcos de la Frontera was getting lost in the little alleys around the town. The best place to start is to go back to the Cuesta Belen entrance of the Plaza and enter through the archway on the left just before the Parador. You’ll find yourself in the maze of alleyways lined with whitewashed houses.

The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain
The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Things to look out for:

  • Inglesia de San Pedro – the church and its Baroque bell tower are just as impressive as the Basilica in Plaza del Cabildo.
  • Palacio del Mayorazgo – when you’ve finished gazing at the Iglesia de San Pedro, turn around. This narrow building dates back to the 17th century. It is now home to a cultural centre. Pop in to admire the building’s interior and the exhibitions.
  • Find and stroll along Calle Cuna and Calle Maldonaldo. Both are lined with Palacios and worthy of finding your way to.
  • Another street to find is Calle Nueva lined. It’s lined with colourful pots against the whitewashed buildings.
  • Visit the Convento de la Mercerdarias. The convent was closed during our visit, however, all the information we read before our visit recommended a visit. The convent dates back to 1642 and is a classic example of a cloistered convent.
  • Follow the path from Calle Nueva onwards to Mirador Abades. If you thought the views from the mirador in Plaza Cabildo were spectacular, we classified Mirador Abades as the perfect finale for our visit. Go ahead and take a look for yourselves.
Expansive views from the Mirador Abades, Arcos de la Frontera
Expansive views from the Mirador Abades

Don’t forget to pop your head into the novelty stores and tapas bars.

Zahara de la Sierra

Zahara de la Sierra is an hour’s drive from Arcos de la Frontera. We passed a few more Pueblo Blancos on the way. Zahara de la Sierra’s Moorish castle is perched high up on the hill coming into view from afar

Zahara de la Sierra, Spain
Driving towards Zahara de la Sierra

Again, we found it best to use the car park at the bottom of the hill. It was also the best way to savour the beauty of the laneways and Moorish houses on the way to Plaza Mayor, the village’s main square. The steep streets were eerily quiet and not a soul was to be seen on the way up.

On reaching Plaza Mayor we realised why the streets had been so quiet. The pretty pink church, Church of Santa Maria de la Mesa was hidden behind a marquee set up to cover the square and pretty stone fountain. Calle Ronda was barricaded for a bull run. The town’s inhabitants were either lining the outside of barriers or inside for the release of the bull.

Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra
Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra

While everyone was preoccupied preparing for the bull run we took advantage of the stunning views of the picturesque Sierra de Monte surrounding the aqua-blue lake, Playa de Zahara de la Sahara below. The lake is a popular water sports destination as the mountains are for hiking.

Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain
Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain

A little time was spent at the barricades absorbing the atmosphere before we realised that this was not something we would enjoy. We made our way downhill for lunch before crowds arrived after the spectacle. An ambulance siren accompanies our journey down.

Olvera

We now know where all the Spanish olive oil comes from! Driving to Olvera you’ll see olive groves everywhere. Fires over the past summers have destroyed some hillside groves. In some areas, new trees have been planted and some of the surviving old trees are starting to resprout. We are once again treated to spectacular views driving towards the township. Another castle perched above us on the hill. Just below it, a church.

Roadside views of the church and castle atop the hill in Olvera, Spain
Roadside views of the church and castle atop the hill in Olvera, Spain

Olvera is a ghost town as we walk uphill. Apart from the restaurants, everything else is closed for the siesta. Walking uphill is beginning to become a habit but we can enjoy the scenic main street without crowds.

The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain
The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain

Arriving in the church square, apart from a couple of people sitting under the shade of a tree, we have it to ourselves. A Polish family joined us a short while later. Like us, they are amazed that there is no one else around.

The square is the best place to see the castle while the lookouts around the church provide sweeping views over the township below and the surrounding countryside. It was time well spent stopping and walking up the hot afternoon sun.

Ronda – the most stunning of the white villages

Onwards to incredible Ronda. We decided to base ourselves in the most popular white villages for several nights to find out why it’s classified as one of the most beautiful.

Are you interested to learn what we found? Click on the link and take a look at our review on why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

You will love doing this one thing in Barcelona!

As they do in most European countries, the day started slowly. This is typical in summer when cities are buzzing with dining, theatre and music until the early hours.

We step out of our apartment just a few metres away to find Las Ramblas starting to come alive. The leafy promenade runs from Placa de Catalunya, the point where the old town and new town collide down to the Christopher Columbus monument at the port.  The beautiful plane trees conveniently shelter tourists from the strong summer sun. We hear many different languages being spoken around us, but not English!

We are intent on starting our Sunday exploring the back lanes and plazas of the Gothic Quarter before making our way Montjuic Hill for the afternoon. It’s a Sunday and expecting to see the quiet weekend life of the Catalunyian capital, we stroll down an alleyway off Las Ramblas stepping right into the middle of a melee. We see hundreds of people, some clambering on top of each other and while many crowded in groups and others around the perimeter of the square.

We are in Plaza Sant Jaume, the home of City Hall. During the week the plaza is buzzing with town officials going about the business of running this busy seaport city. Weekends, it seems, is for the residents of this vibrant Catalonian capital.

Often the scene for protests, today, residents are using the Plaza for another Catalunyian tradition – building castells or “castles”.

So what is this obsession with building castles?

Unique to the region of Catalunya, forming human castles began in the 18th century when they were built as part of religious festivities. At the end of the celebrations, people formed towers of three or four layers putting on a show to outdo the dancers.

Since the 1980’s, building human towers has become a sport and have grown so much in popularity that there are now competitions to build 9 or 10 tiers of people. The grand finale is a young child clambering up and over team members to raise his arm and four fingers, symbolising the four stripes in the Catalan flag at the top of the tower.

There are at least four teams competing today. Each team dressed in white with black sashes and colourful bandanas representing their allegiance and comradeship. We stand back to observe.

Some of these towers look fragile and precarious, looking as if they will collapse at any moment. However, none of the towers collapse. It is an example of extreme precision, teamwork and commitment with an element of trust involved.  Everyone contributes to the team’s success, from the heaviest to the lightest of participants. The base “pinya” consists of the strongest team members, they must be strong and powerful to form the firm base for the more agile and lighter team member who form tiers supporting others on their shoulders until the lightest climbs to the top. It is the team that forms the tower the quickest that wins.

The atmosphere in the plaza is one of intense concentration coupled with fun and laughter further intensified when the Mayor and his contingent appear on the balcony to watch the proceedings.

Barcelona offers much to the visitor: a colourful history; interesting and amazing architecture; museums and theatres; golden beaches; and a wonderful dining culture. If you want to experience the real Barcelona, do not miss a chance to watch the art of building castells next time you visit.

Looking for something else to do in Barcelona? Read about our day in Palau Guell and why we recommend spending some time there.

Why you will love travelling in Europe in the summer if you enjoy music and culture!

Truly getting to know a new country includes meeting new people, sampling new food, visiting the sights and treasures unique and dear to that country and immersing ourselves in their art and culture.

In a tour group, the itinerary is sure to include pre-organised events to showcase the country’s uniqueness – a traditional performance over a meal of local dishes, a private concert in a castle for your group, or a guided visit to the theatre or art gallery. We’ve attended and enjoyed many during our travels.

We prefer to travel independently these days,  by-pass the ticket vendors selling tickets to the opera or a music show, and instead join the locals in their town’s piazzas, plazas and placas or sit in on a classical concert in a historic building where we can just wander in to take a seat.

 A European Town square is a centre for gathering – a place to meet, eat, drink and enjoy entertainment. In winter, some will transform into mesmerising night markets but it is in summer where these town squares are the most vibrant.

Preferring to travel to Europe during their summer, we have had the opportunity to enjoy this vibrancy. In almost every major town or city, stages will appear and buskers will hold their position around town squares.

Performances are varied, but all are professional and first class in quality. Anyone can attend, entrance is free, there are no queues, and you don’t have to dress up! Often, a number of these performances are on at the same time and you can wander between them.

We’ve stumbled unexpectedly across many a performance:

  1. On an evening stroll in Madrid, we came across a Big Band concert in Plaza Mayor and were entertained for almost two hours.
  2. On an afternoon walk down La Ramblas in Barcelona, we veered into a square and into the middle of a human tower competition.
  3. Instead of joining the others in the tourist hub of Monastiraki in Athens, we joined locals at an outdoor music concert featuring traditional Greek music and performances.
  4. As tourists queued to enter the opera in Vienna, we walked across the road to join the large crowd at the annual film festival in front of the Town Hall.
  5. Enjoyed a professional fashion show in the enchanting hilltop town of Paola on our drive back to Rome from Sicily.
  6. On the Old City walls of Treviso, we enjoyed two nights of incredible entertainment, Nina Zilli who represented Italy in the 2012 Eurovision performed one night and the Beuna Vista Social Club performed on the next evening. The atmosphere was electric!
  7. Wandering along 3rd Street Promenade in Santa Monica, we stopped to listen to three brothers showcasing their music right at the end of the street. They are outstanding musicians who tour the US performing at schools and small venues and enjoy busking so much that their mother drives them the one hour to come down to Santa Monica every Saturday and then waits to take them home again.
  8. Staying a few days in the Tuscan town of Arezzo, we enjoyed the annual jousting competition held every night complete with a medieval parade through the streets of the town.
  9. In Seville, we wandered into an outdoor courtyard in a small Palais to join a small audience and listened to a spectacular classical piano concert.
  10. Recently, in Prague all the seats were taken by the time we arrived in Old Town Square, so we joined locals and other travellers like ourselves to sit on the kerbside to enjoy an evening of jazz.

A recommendation, next time you are travelling in Europe during the summer, take a peek in the town square or if like us, you decide on using apartment accommodation, ask your host.

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