We took a final look through the 18th-century Portal de Castilla before turning our backs on Los Arcos. At the end of our long day walking the full Camino de Santiago we would be rewarded by staying an extra day in Logrono.
Day 7 – Los Arcos to Logrono
Our walking notes told us we were going on a long walk from the Navarre region of Spain into the famous Rioja wine area. We had briefly visited the Rioja area on a road trip the year before and had noticed pilgrims walking along the pathways next to the roads. It was exciting to explore the region more thoroughly on foot.
Sansol
Leaving Los Arcos a paved road lined with laden yellow plum trees led us past homes on the outskirts of the town. We walked 7km to the hilltop town of Sansol and could see it long before we arrived. It looked pretty from a distance!
Views of Sansol from the Camino de Santiago trail
The Camino path led us through the town and it was disappointing to find the streets empty. We kept going to Torres del Rio one kilometre away located on another hill across a ravine. Again, the streets through Torres del Rio were quiet and empty. The town, however, was more interesting than Sansol.
Torres del Rio
A conquered Muslim fortress, Torres del Rio (pop 128) shows its later heritage with signs of being ruled by the Knights of the Templar. Iglesia del Santos Sepulcro, an octagonal-shaped church claims pride of place in the middle of the town with its star-patterned ceiling and engraved pillars. Volunteers sometimes open the church in the mornings.
Iglesia del Santos Sepulcro
The Templar hostel is another attraction in the town. Take a peek as you walk by. It is located a few metres up the road from the church. A few more metres further, a mural of the town is painted on the wall of a small courtyard with seating. Pilgrims can take a rest in this quiet olive tree-lined spot.
Resting area in Torres de Rio for Camino pilgrims
Taking shortcuts
What goes up must come down! The downhill trail started almost immediately after we left Torres del Rio. We followed another hiker and took an easy shortcut down the steep brush-covered hill instead of taking the winding trail down. We were gingerly descending when a hefty young fellow appeared behind us. When we stood aside for him to pass, he politely invited us to carry on ahead of him.
The Camino provides great opportunities to meet people from around the world and from all walks of life. Some people who walk the Camino like to be alone with their thoughts, but on other days they may be happy to chat with others. Walking companions might also split up for a while to have some time by themselves before rejoining each other and continuing. Pilgrims have a kind of unwritten rule to be aware of their fellow walkers’ body language before starting a conversation.
Conversations with fellow pilgrims
Back on the trail, our tailgater wanted to converse. A soldier in the German army, he was weighed down by a heavy military backpack. Struck down heavily by COVID-19 more than a year before, he was walking the route to improve his fitness and return to serve his country. After telling us his story, he strode boldly onwards.
Many short conversations like this one were had during our days walking the Camino. It provided an insight into why people embark on the long and arduous walk.
A few kilometres further, back amongst open pastures, we came across a rudimentary monument made by Camino travellers. Pebble pyramids had been built in groups on a rise alongside the path and on a barren tree, all sorts of trinkets tied to the branches. Several walkers had stopped to sit and reflect.
We caught up with our young German walker at a rest stop shortly after. Loud Latino music could be heard down the path long before we arrived. A small stall on the trail offered refreshments and a place to rest our feet before continuing. More steep trails needed to be climbed before we reached the main town on our trail that day, Viana.
Viana
Nearly four hours after walking on a combination of roadside tracks and paths through vineyards, we saw Viana in the distance. A portal announced our entrance into Viana but there was still a few hundred metres of walking uphill before we entered this delightful town.
The portal announcing our arrival in Viana
Plaza los Fueros
While the streets were empty walking into the town everything changed when we arrived in the centre. Townfolk were gathered in the town’s main plaza, Plaza los Fueros and surrounding cafes and eateries. The township was a hive of activity.
Viana’s town hall in Plaza los Fueros
Our pilgrim’s passports were stamped in the pretty Inglesia de Santa Maria before exploring our options for lunch. We waved at the cyclist we’d run into on previous days enjoying his lunch with a young hiker we’d seen on the trail.
Alter of Iglesia de Santa Maria
Plenty of other familiar faces could be spotted around the plaza. A couple who both wore support braces; he seemed to alternate wearing them either on both knees or both calves and she on one knee. They captured our attention because, always in deep conversation, they sped up their pace to overtake us before slowing down again when we would overtake them. Before long, the cycle would be again. We learned later that they were from the Canary Islands.
Lunch by the ruins of Iglesia de San Pedro
Further along Calle Rua Santa Maria, almost at the end of the old town, there was a nice cafe/bar where we stopped to enjoy a wonderful salad lunch next to the ruins of another church, Iglesia de San Pedro. The ruins provided the perfect backdrop with its huge Gothic arches.
The ruins of Iglesia de San Pedro
Refreshed and rested, we left the Viana through Portal de San Felices. A myriad of arrows directed us out of town.
Before long we had caught up with our Canary Island couple and followed them through vineyards for the remaining 9km walk to Logrono. Closer to Logrono we joined a steady stream of pilgrims for the final climb and descent ending at a stall selling snacks and stamping pilgrim’s passports. The stall stands next to the house of Casa Felisa, the house where since 1940 a mother and her daughter have welcomed pilgrims to their town. Our Danish friends who had started earlier than us had stopped too and we walked together on paths lined with community gardens for the remainder of the way into Logrono.
Walking statistics
28.77km
7 hours including rest stops
Day 8 – A rest day – sightseeing in Logrono
Crossing over the River Erbo, we had entered the old town the day before and instantly felt we would like Logrono.
Our accommodation, Silken Hotel Los Bracos was modern and clean. The room was spacious with views over the rooftops to the church towers and was perfect for our rest day to explore the town.
Our comfortable hotel room at the Silken Los Bracos Hotel in Logrono
Having had a late night the day before enjoying the Rioja wine and dining with our Danish friends who were continuing, we woke leisurely. After breakfast, we set off to find the laundromat to do our washing. While waiting for the washing to run through its cycle we took the opportunity to wander up and down Avenida Gran Via Juan Carlos I, the bustling main street bordering the old town.
Our chores were completed an hour later so we had the rest of the day to explore.
Sightseeing in Logrono Old Town
Our first stop was at the Tourist Office to gather information on the notable places in the town to visit. They told us that entry to all places of interest was free.
Across from the Tourist Office is an art gallery. We looked at a photographic exhibition inside before continuing.
Museo de la Rioja
Past the La Rioja Parliament building is a small street which leads to a small plaza, Plaza San Agustin. Straight ahead we found what we had been looking for, a stunning Baroque building, Espatero Palace, where the Museum de la Rioja is now housed. Another grand building next to the Palace is the Logrono’s old post office, now a prestigious hotel.
The elegant Museo de la Rioja building
A couple of informative hours were spent in the museum learning about the history of La Rioja. We highly recommend a visit.
Plaza de Mercado and Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda
The next stop was Plaza del Mercado, a leafy square and a central hub of the old city. Santa Maria de la Redonda cathedral features twin Baroque towers and is the highlight of the square. We took a quick look inside the church, the intricately designed and gleaming gold altarpiece is the cathedral’s crowning glory.
Santa Maria de la Redonda in Plaza de Mercado
Buskers were singing and playing music on the perimeters of the square and there are plenty of cafes and bars to choose from to sit and enjoy the atmosphere. It was the perfect opportunity to embrace the ambience over our lunch before continuing.
Mercado de San Blas
We had heard much about the vibrance of La Riojan food and wines so a stop at the marketplace, Mercado de San Blas was a must. However, on arrival, we found that most stalls had closed for the day. There were still a few open fruit stalls, so we bought some fresh summer fruit to enjoy later.
A night of tapas and vino in Calle Laurel
Calle Laurel is lined with pintxos/tapas and raciones bars and is the best place to sample the region’s wine and food
Eating out on Calle Laurel is highly recommended on the list of things to do when in Logrono. It’s next to the Mercado, lined with pintxos/tapas and wine bars. It’s the perfect place to indulge in the region’s delicacies. The bars are open for lunch and dinner. Each bar has its specialities so the best way to enjoy them is to hop from one bar to another sampling each. We enjoyed the evening doing exactly that while incorporating a little people-watching.
Raciones in Donde Dani, an elegant pintxos bar on Calle Laurel
One last stop – Parque de Espolon
A walk around Parque de Espolon, a large park and square not far from Calle Laurel completed our evening. The park is where the locals come at the end of the day for a stroll or to sit on a bench surrounded by flower beds and the imposing statue dedicated to General Balomero Espartero, a local hero. Again, it was the perfect place to enjoy people-watching.
Evening in Parque de Espoplon
In case you missed it – Walking the full Camino de Santiago
If you’d like to follow our journey from the start, click on the links below to read:
The streets were quiet when we returned through the township. We passed over the Puenta de la Reina to walk to Estella where we would end Day 5 of walking the full Camino de Santiago. From Estella, we’ll carry on to Los Arcos on Day 6. Both Estella and Los Arco sound like they’ll be interesting.
Leaving the town of Puenta de la Reina by passing through the portal and over the Roman bridge
Puenta de la Reina to Estella
Our walking notes promised a walk over rolling hills alongside vineyards and amongst olive and almond groves through the ancient towns of Bargota and Ciraqui.
We hit the road at 7:30am after having a satisfying breakfast at Hotel Jacques, which provides hotel and hostel accommodation. We stayed in a comfortable room in the hotel section.
Within an hour we had passed through the town of Maneru and came across a French family of three (mother, father and daughter) whom we had seen on the route over the past several days. After exchanging pleasantries we left them behind and found ourselves walking behind three young adults talking and laughing as they walked.
We all came to a standstill at a Camino arrow pointing in two directions. One of the arrows directed us up a narrow and rough track. Comparing notes and apps we agreed that both routes would take us to the same place. We would be safer to take the wider trail.
With the ice broken, we chatted with Ines, Fernando and Santiago as we walked. The boys were twins and Ines was their older sister. They were walking part of the Camino trail as a five-day family holiday. All three had completed the last section of the Camino Frances as part of a school activity when they were younger. They were trying to catch up with their parents who had started walking earlier than their children that morning. They strode on ahead of us continuing their banter.
Ciraqui
The hilltop town of Ciraqui was within view as we walked along a track surrounded by rolling hills, wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards. The sky above was clear and blue.
Views of the hilltop town of Ciraqui and beyond as we walked alongside vineyards on the Camino de Santiago
There was a bit of a climb to the centre of Ciraqui at the top of the hill where the church and monastery are located. The church was closed. A stamp and stamp pad sat on the small table by the restroom for us to stamp our pilgrim passports. The streets were empty except for pilgrims making their way to the top to descend through the other side of the town.
The climb to the crest of Ciraqui township
On the other side of the township was one of the highlights for pilgrims who pass through Ciraqui. Halfway down the tarmac road, the remains of a well-preserved 2000-year-old Roman road appeared exposed. The road led down to another rarity, an old Roman bridge. Our young friends had caught up with their parents and were resting in the shade by the beautiful Roman stone road with other pilgrims.
The old Roman stone road at Ciraqui
We slowed down to manoeuvre our way down the road but decided to carry on over the bridge to the township of Lorca for our rest stop.
The old Roman Bridge outside Ciraqui
Lorca
The walk to Lorca was more demanding. With the beautiful scenery behind us, the track was craggy with many ups and downs. Again, we were grateful to have chosen to use hiking poles. They provided much-needed assistance on the steep and rocky inclines as much as the steadiness they gave us as we navigated downhill.
Finally, at the top of a steep and rocky ravine, the road into Lorca appeared and we sat down for a well-earned rest opposite the church at the entrance to the town. Looking around us we saw a few familiar faces including the loud Asian American lady who had sat at the table across from us during dinner in Saint Jean Pied de Port boasting to her companion that she had completed the walk three times before. Many familiar faces appeared, reappeared, and sometimes disappeared during our time on the Camino.
We had taken off our shoes when Danish Jens and Kirsten arrived. Thoughts on the journey so far were discussed before they continued up the road to find a cafe for coffee.
Villatuerta
Rested, we continued through vineyards and along paths lined with bright sunflower fields. There was one more township to walk through, Villatuerta before we reached our overnight stay in Estella.
Over a Roman bridge and at the top of a steep road, we arrived at the old 14th-century church, Iglesia de la Asuncion standing in a courtyard. We took the opportunity to have a look inside, stamp our passports and have a drink from our water bottles before continuing.
Iglesia de la Asuncion in Villatuerta
Just outside of Villatuerta, there was the small hermitage our guidebook had pointed out. Originally part of a larger monastery complex it has since disappeared leaving the beautiful sight of the lonely chapel sitting amongst the olive groves. We decided not to detour to have a look and instead continued. There was one more rise to climb and before long we were walking along a neverending bike path which eventually led us into Estella.
The pretty scene of the hermitage sitting amongst the olive groves
Estella
It was delightful to cross over the Rio Ega towards our accommodation and find it bustling with locals and pilgrims. Estella is divided in two with settlements on both sides of the river.
We decided to have lunch in front one of Estella’s famous landmarks, Puenta de la Carcel (previously known as Puenta de San Martin). The bridge has a steep single arch and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the river and the township on both sides. The Iglesia de Santa Maria Jus de Castillo and the Santo Domingo convent, located on the hill above the town, can also be seen from the bridge.
Puenta de la Carcel, the steep single-arched bridge between the two parts of Estella township
Exploring Estella
Once we had settled into our accommodation, we stepped outside to explore the town only to find empty streets. Spaniards enjoyed a siesta to escape the heat leaving only a few of us outdoors.
As we walked up Calle Mayor, we couldn’t help but peek inside the shop windows. Our destination was the triangular plaza, Plaza Santiago. It was only during our return walk that we realized the true significance of this main street. Upon closer inspection of the building facades and plaques on some residences, we discovered they had served as amazing palaces and houses of fine gentry in past times.
A grand palazzo on Calle Mayor in Estella
A detour halfway down Calle Mayor took us to the town’s main square, Plaza de los Fueros which was surrounded by arcaded buildings with plenty of dining establishments and another church, the Iglesia San Juan Bautista.
With the heat still bearing down, it was the perfect time to return to our lunch spot to relax over a beer and write our reflections on our day before retreating to our hotel for dinner.
An after-dinner walk found us back in the main plaza for a little people-watching. Elderly residents sat chatting on benches around the circumference of the square, while parents watched their youngsters play football on the pavement or play tag.
Our accommodation
Our hotel, Hotel Hospederia Chapitel is a lovely boutique hotel a short distance from the bridge and located right in front of the Citadel. We were delighted to find we had views of the Citadel from our spacious and comfortable room.
The hotel had a small bar with comfy armchairs by the window from where we could watch the town come alive again over a glass of wine before another delicious three-course meal in the hotel restaurant.
Walking statistics
23km
5 hours 50 minutes
Estella to Los Arcos
We were ready by 7am and our Danish hikers arrived for breakfast not long after. As others drifted in we noticed that while it wasn’t apparent in the evening before, the hotel was at capacity. Accommodation is at a premium in Pamplona during the San Fermin so many revellers stay in Estella instead. Pamplona is only a few kilometres away by car.
Views of the Iglesia de Santa Maria Jus de Castillo and the Santo Domingo convent from the Puenta de la Carcel as we left Estella
After a leisurely breakfast, we left the town by crossing the Puenta de la Carcel. We walked along the elegant main street of the old town and through the portal into suburbia. We carefully followed the Camino signage out of town and arrived at our first stop three kilometres outside of Estella.
Monasterio de Irache and the Bodegas Irache Wine Fountain
Our guidebook and daily notes made special mention of this Camino attraction. The path led us past the Bodegas Irache and to the right behind a small gate was the legendary fountain offering wine and water to modern-day pilgrims. The monks at the monastery used to make the wine, which also served as a pilgrim hospital in the early days.
The purpose of the Irache Wine Fountain
The fountain symbolises the first miracle Jesus performed, turning wine into water and was inaugurated in 1991 to commemorate 100 years of winemaking by the vineyard. The 12th-century vines surrounding the path we had just walked along supply the grapes for the wine fountain and it is tradition to fill your Camino scallop shell and drink from it. However, because it is usually still early morning when pilgrims pass by, they will often fill their water bottles to enjoy the wine later in the day.
The Bodegas Irache Wine Fountain is where pilgrims can take a sip of wine or fill up their bottles for later.
We arrived to find quite a few pilgrims at the fountain and took our place in the queue alongside a group of four loud Americans who took advantage of the free-flowing wine and filled all their drink bottles.
At 8:30 am, it was too early for us to fill more than our small water bottle caps and take a sip for the sake of custom before carrying on past the monastery a few metres further along the path. Visiting the monastery and church is possible if you arrive after 9 am.
Luquin
After passing the monastery, the path led us through a pine forest emerging to amazing views of the jagged-edged mountains in the distance before spotting the pyramid-shaped hill with a castle on top.
There is the option to detour into the small village of Villamayor de Montjardin to stay overnight if pilgrims want to make the steep climb to the top of the hill to explore the castle.
Castillo de Monjardin is sitting high on the hill and the township of Villamayor de Monjardin is visible from the Camino de Santiago path.
We continued our journey towards Los Arcos. Our walking notes told us there were few other places to stop after the monastery. We did, however, come across an unusual sight – a community swimming pool with a cafe attached in the small village of Luquin. The streets were empty. We stopped at the pool to have our morning tea of fruit as other walkers came and went around us before we continued.
The long road to Los Arcos
The path led us through dry fields and pastures for about 12km. The last section was on an exposed and long flat pathway where we trudged, exposed to the hot sun, with other pilgrims before reaching the sign announcing the town entrance.
The long flat path to Los Arcos.
Los Arcos is a small and pretty little town. Again, we found the street leading to the small main square of the old town was empty. Unsure if we would find anything substantial for lunch further on, we stopped at one of the only stores open. The small bakery sold freshly baked vegan goods. We opted for the vegan empanada and a pretty standard coffee accompanied by an apple danish which we devoured while sitting on a bench opposite the store.
Satiated and ready to find our accommodation which was a few metres further we found ourselves in a busy little square in front of the Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos where other pilgrims were having lunch outside a bar. The church was closed so we passed through the old town portal to our accommodation a few metres outside the old town walls.
The pretty little square outside the church in Los Arcos where residents and Camino pilgrims congregated.
Our accommodation
Reception at Hotel Monaco was closed and a phone call had to be to the hotel’s contact number. The owner apologised profusely for not being on-site to welcome us (there had been a death in the family) and directed us to where we could find our room keys. He also advised that instead of having dinner and breakfast in the hotel, he had arranged for us to have dinner at the bar and restaurant on the ground floor and breakfast at the small cafe across the road.
Our room was spacious but on an incredibly hot July day, we would have appreciated air conditioning or at least a fan in the room! It was cooler in the corridor than in our room. The hotel did have laundry facilities, however, for which we were grateful once we had worked out how to use the washing machine.
Our arrival routine completed we strolled back into the old town area before pre-dinner drinks and journalling in a little courtyard at the restaurant bar.
Highlights of the day
Two highlights punctuated a rather long and unremarkable day:
While having lunch and watching other walkers arrive, our friend, the cyclist from Akaretta arrived and sat on a bench next to us sharing a little of his journey. He had cycled the Camino de Santiago three or four times. This time he was taking it easy and only cycling 20-30km per day while staying in the smaller towns and stopping to explore more towns along the way.
When we wandered back into the old town in the late afternoon, our fellow walkers, the Danish couple were enjoying refreshments outside the church. They were staying at a hostel in the old town (which probably had air conditioning!). An invitation to join them and the ensuing conversation resulted in our meeting frequently along the walk and afterwards until they left us at Logrono.
Walking statistics
21km
5 hours 15 minutes
One more thing
We had found that while not intended, we had settled into an arrival routine which we continued throughout the journey:
Have some lunch.
Check-in at our accommodation.
Unroll our yoga mats for a 30-40 minute stretch yoga session (this has so far ensured that we are ready for another long walk the next day).
Unpack (the trick here is to unpack only what we need ).
Shower.
Do laundry if the facilities allow it.
Go out to explore the town/village.
In case you missed it – Walking the full Camino de Santiago
If you’d like to follow our journey from the start, read:
We were underway walking the full Camino de Santiago. With two long walking days behind us and a blissful night’s sleep in our comfortable overnight accommodation in Akarreta, Days 3 and 4 would be breezy short walks.
Day 3 – Akarreta to Pamplona
Knowing that the walking day would be short, we started the day at a leisurely pace. Breakfast was served at 8:00am so there was no rush. However, we were keen to be on our way to Pamplona because it was the first day of the annual San Fermin Festival (Running of the Bulls).
Leaving Akarreta
Fuelled by a hearty continental breakfast, we left Akarreta down a narrow track before continuing along a path full of rises and falls that snaked alongside a river.
After several kilometres, we emerged into the open air, surrounded by wheat fields. There were several small townships to pass through before we encountered a couple of short but steep descents and ascents before finding ourselves walking on a paved track that ran above the highway.
Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre and Basilica de la Sanctissima
The path descended into a small park next to the medieval bridge spanning the Argo River which has, for centuries, been the official entrance into Pamplona for pilgrims. We took a short rest in the park before crossing the Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre into Trinidad de Arre, the first suburb on the outskirts of Pamplona.
Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre
Just over the bridge on the right is Basilica de la Sanctissima Trinidad. It’s the site of a monastery and an old pilgrim hospital where weary travellers on the Camino used to stop to rest overnight. The small chapel was open and we could self-stamp our pilgrim’s passports before continuing through the outer suburbs towards the city.
Pamplona
Almost immediately we were immersed into the festivities of San Fermin. It was the first day of the festival and no bull running would occur. However, it was a public holiday and people were out celebrating.
Groups of revellers dressed in white with red neck scarves joined us and before long we merged with more crowds to cross the Puente de la Magdalena before entering the old town through the Portal de Francia.
Entering Pamplona through the Portal de Franca
As we approached Plaza Consistorial, we found the streets packed with people. Some were just milling around while others had gathered around trestle tables to eat lunch. Plaza Consistorial is home to Pamplona’s City Hall, which boasts an impressive Baroque facade.
It was almost midday, and the opening day celebrations would soon commence. The Plaza was filled with people, and the crowd had spilt into the narrow streets surrounding the square. The mood was jovial: rubber balls bounced above heads as people drank Sangria and sang at the top of their voices.
Pamplona’s San Fermin Festival is in full swing.
Fortunately, we’ve visited Pamplona before and had the opportunity to walk the bull-running route incorporating Plaza Consistorial. It’s a compact and pretty square which is better appreciated without the San Fermin crowds.
San Fermin festivities
As the clock approached midday, the excitement in the air was palpable. The San Fermin chant and the launch of mini rockets, known as “Txupinazo,” signalled the start of a week-long celebration. Excited residents and their guests gathered on the balconies of houses overlooking the crowded streets and squares. Sangria flowed freely and bucketfuls of it were poured from the balconies onto the crowds below, making navigating through the crowds challenging. Without getting drenched, we arrived in Plaza Castillo, the heart of Pamplona, to see what was happening. It was packed full of people too!
Pamplona’s Plaza del Castillo was full of revellers with barely any space to move.
With little room to move and people drinking and cheering as rockets were launched above, we managed to make our way through to the other side of the square to find a quieter square with fewer people to sit down. It became clear that we wouldn’t be able to find anywhere to have lunch in the city area, so we snacked on our provisions whilst enjoying one of our favourite travel pastimes – people-watching.
Our accommodation
Because of the Festival, our travel arrangers, UTracks had not been able to find accommodation for us in the centre of Pamplona and had instead offered to taxi us back to Akarreta and return the next morning to continue on our way. We did some independent searching and found an Ibis Styles hotel about 5km from the city where we could spend the night.
Walking a few extra kilometres
We had intended to catch a taxi to the hotel but again, it was apparent that this would be difficult so after an hour we put our backpacks on and started the walk.
The hotel was comfortable and roomy enough to unroll our yoga mats to stretch. Refreshed we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks in the covered outside area surrounded by locals and before long joined them in the restaurant for a simple and delicious seafood meal before retiring to bed to the sound of thunder and lightning and finally heavy rain.
Some discoveries on the Camino de Santiago
There were two things we discovered that afternoon:
trees along the pathways laden with ripe fruit ready for picking; and
refreshing lemon beer.
We would enjoy both on the remainder of our Camino.
The highlight of the day
Stumbling through an interview with a TV reporter while sitting on a park bench. Asked about what we thought of the festival, we used our rusty Spanish and plenty of gesturing to indicate our excitement of being in Pamplona during the San Fermin festivities.
One more thing
While some of us may not support bullfighting, there is much to be said about the atmosphere and euphoria of being in Pamplona during the fiesta and witnessing the festivities on the day before the actual bull running commences. It was an experience to remember.
Walking statistics
15km plus a further 5.7km to our hotel
5 hours including our stop in Pamplona
Day 4 – Pamplona to Puenta de la Reina
Eager to be on the move we watched the build-up to the first bull run on the TV as we ate breakfast in the cafe where we had dinner the evening before. Hotel reception called a taxi to take us for a 9-minute drive to the small township of Cizur Menor, the starting point for our day’s walk.
The taxi driver was chatty on the short drive and left with a little extra in his pocket. The total cost was 18 euros. We knew he had overcharged us!
Cizur Menor
We exited the taxi and met a Camino walker and chatted while walking through the quiet streets of Cizur Menor. Our fellow pilgrim had started her walk in Normandy. Leaving her to continue at her leisurely pace, we soon came across another pilgrim picking plums from a tree on the side of the path. He offered us some telling us that they would give us the energy and nutrients to carry us through the day. They were delicious and oozing with sweetness.
Wheat fields leading to the small hamlet of Zariquiegui
Soon we were walking amongst vast fields of wheat and sunflowers with their heads turned in unison towards the sun. The scenery was stunning as we climbed towards the small township of Zariquiegui (pop 162). Our guidebook told us that it was the ideal spot to stop for a rest before the steep climb to Alto du Perdon.
The Camino path to Alto del Perdon after leaving the small hamlet of Zariquiegui
Leaving the Zariquigui, the trail became steeper, gravely and muddier because of the overnight rainfall. On our slow and steady climb, we came upon an old local out walking with his dog (this is the middle of nowhere), another set of pilgrims who looked like a mother and daughter to whom we wished “Buen Camino” as we manoeuvred past them and a trail bike rider who roared past us just as we reached the summit. Where did he come from?
Alto del Perdon
The sculptures on the ridge at Alto du Perdon (height of forgiveness) were a welcome sight. We’d been told it can get quite gusty on the ridge – but we are lucky, the winds are moderate and views across the slopes and fields below are splendid.
The famous Monument to the Pilgrim sculptures on Alto del Perdon
Previously, the ridge was home to a Basilica and a hospital for pilgrims. Nowadays, these structures have been replaced by the famous metal sculptures of past and present pilgrims. Some of the sculptures depict pilgrims walking, while others show them riding horses or donkeys.
The climb down was slower and more difficult. We navigated down a slippery and steeper trail of stone, gravel and plenty of uneven crevices and were left astounded when a young couple strode past us without hiking poles, one in trainers and the other in sandals!
Urtega
Once on the flat, a scenic path led past a prominent Camino landmark. A marble sculpture of Mary stands in a shaded spot with benches to rest on. The benches were full of pilgrims resting after coming down the arduous path.
The small town of Urtega wasn’t too far away so we carried on to take our break there.
There was not a soul in sight walking through Urtega. Nor did we see any cafes. Finally, we stumbled across a hostel with a cafe attached selling fruit so seized the opportunity to collect some sustenance
Muruzabai
With no seating, parks or shade in sight, we carried on walking a short distance to the small village, of Muruzabai to find the perfect spot to sit under the shade of trees loaded with ripe cherry plums next to the village church. Voices from the church verandah reveal the trainers and sandals couple chatting to another young pilgrim.
The quiet streets of Urtega were brightened with pots of bright blooms of hydrangeas
Obanos
Sufficiently rested and with our pilgrim’s passports stamped at the church we moved on along a prettier wildflower-lined path to Obanos. Again, we noticed just a few residents outside as we passed through the charming town: an elderly man sitting on a park bench reading his newspaper; a group of very young children struggling with a table, chair and bags full of goods who look like they are going to set up a stall by the church nearby; and a young family walking near the church.
The large central square in Obanos and the imposing Inglesia de San Juan Bautista
Puenta de la Reina
It was becoming warmer, and our destination wasn’t far away. Puenta de la Reina and our hotel sprung upon us after we navigated a trail past a few large vegetable patches.
We walked past our hotel for another 10 minutes into the main town for lunch. The streets were deserted apart from a few pilgrims like us. Shops were closed. There was a bar opposite a small square set up for a local bull run which offered a hearty salad lunch (always served with freshly baked bread) which we enjoyed with our now customary lemon beer.
Calle Mayor is the main street of Puenta de la Reina and holds significance for pilgrims. The Inglesia de San Pedro which is located on the street holds a sculpture of one of Europe’s Black Madonnas.
Back at the hotel, we refreshed ourselves after our yoga session and washed our clothes in the coin-operated washing machine, before sitting in the bar area to reflect on our day over a cold beer while a short rainstorm passed over.
The sun was out after dinner, allowing us to return to the town to explore the alleyways and look at the churches, and the beautiful 11th-century seven-arched Roman bridge, an icon of the Camino, after which the town is named.
The beautiful 11th century bridge, Puenta de la Reina which we crossed over to leave the city on Day 5 to carry on our journey
Walking back through the main street of the town, we saw a few familiar faces from the trail, including a couple we saw at our hotel Roncesvalles.
The highlight of the day
Having a short conversation with Jens and Kirsten outside a tapas bar which marked the beginning of a friendship that accompanied us on our walk to Logrono (where they completed their pilgrimage). The friendship has continued beyond our time on the Camino de Santiago now that we are back in our respective home countries.
Some of our most unforgettable memories were created not only by the places we visited and saw but also by the people we met along the way and the impact they had on our journey. Stay tuned to learn about our chance encounters and observations as our journey progresses.
Walking statistics
18km
5 hours
Everything you need to know about walking the full Camino de Santiago
Contemplating completing all or part of the Camino de Santiago? Learn everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago here.
If you’d like to read how our accounts of Days 1 and 2 of the Camino de Santiago, have a look at this post.
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On a trip to Spain a few years ago, we visited Santiago de Compostela. Roaming the historic district, we saw pilgrims who had just completed the Camino de Santiago. Despite carrying heavy backpacks, they arrived at Obradoiro Square with unwavering determination. Exhaustion on their faces turned into pure joy as they approached the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Piqued by our curiosity about what makes this place so unique, we decided to embark on the 780km journey ourselves. If you’re considering taking on this incredible journey, we’re pleased to be able to tell you everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago.
A little history on walking the Camino de Santiago
Whether you know it as the Camino de Santiago, Camino Frances, the French Way or The Way of St James, the Camino has existed for more than 1000 years as a Christian pilgrimage route.
During medieval times, the Camino was renowned as one of the top three Christian pilgrimages. Pilgrims followed the route to Santiago de Compostela, where legend tells that the remains of Saint James lie in the Cathedral. Saint James is said to have played a crucial role in spreading the religion throughout the Iberian Peninsula.
Traditionally, the Camino began on the pilgrim’s doorstep, wherever that was. However, today, for most pilgrims, it more commonly starts in the small village of St. Jean Pied de Port in southern France and follows several routes to finish in Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain.
The medieval pilgrim undertook the arduous pilgrimage for religious reasons seeking forgiveness for their sins or to ask for assistance in some way. You do not have to be a Christian pilgrim to complete the walk. Today, the modern pilgrim undertakes the walk for a range of reasons – religious, spiritual, historical, cultural or just the physical challenge.
How was the route created?
Our research suggests that the route was originally conveyed by word of mouth. Pilgrims provided each other with advice on the best route and which places to stop at. Over time, this developed into a well-trodden route from which Book V of the Codex Calixtinus: A Guide for the Traveller evolved in the 12th century.
After medieval times, pilgrimage decreased in popularity mainly due to religious wars and reformation. Pilgrims continued to walk the Camino, however, the numbers completing the journey were nowhere near the 250,000 people that undertook the journey annually.
A resurgence in interest in the Camino pilgrimage came about in the 1980s when Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, the priest of the Galician village of O Cebreiro, marked the ancient route with yellow arrows so that pilgrims could easily find the way. And, so the modern-day Camino was born. Today, over 400,000 individuals from all corners of the world walk the Camino de Santiago every year.
Pilgrims undertaking the Camino from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. One of the busiest portions of the Camino de Santiago
Everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago
Do you have to walk the whole of the Camino de Santiago?
You do not have to be a Christian pilgrim to complete the walk, neither do you have to complete the full Camino de Santiago.
We met many time-poor walkers who completed the 780km walk in portions over years during vacations or finished the final 100km from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela for the pilgrim’s certificate.
If you’re interested in nature and experiencing the beautiful Spanish countryside, again, there are many options available on where to start and stop. Rail and bus services are available to the larger towns and cities on the Camino trail, making them perfect to commence and finish from without having to walk the full distance.
We decided to undertake the complete route over 38 days, which included an extra night each in the two cities we had not visited before: Logrono and Leon, allowing us time to explore them more comprehensively. For those who have more time and prefer not to pre-book accommodation, there is ample opportunity to extend the walk to however long you wish.
When to go
Most guidebooks recommend doing the walk during the more pleasant cooler months, typically between April and June or September to November. Winter months, bring snow to some parts of the track, and most accommodations close down for the winter. If you intend to do the walk during the recommended months it’s important to book your accommodation early and be aware that the trail may be heavily congested at times.
If you are not concerned about hot weather, the trail is less crowded during the European summer months of July and August. While you will still find other pilgrims on the way there will be fewer of them. Be prepared to make earlier starts to your walking day to ensure that you are not walking during the hottest part of the day.
Note: We walked the Camino in July and early August and encountered several hot days. By commencing earlier in the morning we ensured that we had completed walking before the hottest part of the day which is usually after 3pm in the north of Spain. Walking during this time of the year ensured there were fewer rainy days which we preferred over the heat.
Where to stay when walking the Camino de Santiago
Accommodation on the Camino is available for all budgets, from traditional albergues to luxury hotels and everything in between depending on the size of the township.
Albergues
Albergues (hostels) are the traditional accommodation on the Camino. They are based on the medieval pilgrim hospitals which offered simple overnight lodgings at minimal cost. The accommodation is normally communal with shared dormitories and facilities and available for one night only.
The Albergue in the small hamlet of San Juan de Ortega is attached to the church and old monastery
Albergues are widely used by walkers looking for flexibility in their daily walking distances because they cannot be booked ahead of time and are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. If the hostel at your preferred overnight destination is fully booked when you arrive, you can walk further to the next town or return to the last town you passed to try your luck. The upside is that there are plenty of albergues on the Camino route.
Guesthouses/Casa Rurales
The Casa Rural where we stayed overnight in Rabanal del Camino
In Spain, “Casa Rurales” are small, family-run accommodations located in towns where there are no hotels available. These are unique boutique places to stay that offer an authentic Spanish experience, where old homes have been restored to retain the architecture of the area. Along the Camino, they are the perfect way to experience the local way of life, traditional foods, and hospitality. Casas usually have a few bedrooms, each with private bathroom facilities, and the hosts provide breakfasts and dinners.
Hotels
On the Camino, you’ll find hotels in the larger towns and there’s usually one to suit all budgets. Like most other countries they range on a scale of one to five stars. You’ll see the star rating on a sign at the entrance along with a capital “H”, the sign indicating that the accommodation is a hotel.
Our very comfortable and modern hotel in the picturesque town of Molinaseca
Slightly smaller towns may have hotel accommodations but they may not be highly starred. All of them do, however, provide basic amenities and are comfortable enough if you are only staying overnight.
Paradores
Spain is well known for its Paradores, premium luxury accommodations converted from castles and monasteries. A few are located on the Camino trail, mainly former monasteries, where you can book accommodation. They’re a great way to live within the monastic surroundings and often have spectacular cloisters that are only accessible to guests.
The Monasterio de San Zoilo where we enjoyed an overnight stay
Where we stayed on our Camino experience
We had the wonderful opportunity to stay in various accommodations on our Camino experience. While we didn’t stay in the traditional shared accommodation in albergues, in small towns without options, we stayed in private rooms with our facilities located next to or within albergues. The facilities were clean and comfortable, and the meals provided were of excellent quality and quantity.
In larger towns, our hotel offerings ranged between 3 and 4 stars and were conveniently situated in the town centre so we could explore after arrival.
We took the opportunity to upgrade our accommodation to Paradores or equivalents at several destinations and all provided unique and excellent experiences. Read more about them by following our journey.
The terrain
The Camino is a beautiful trail that offers a mix of terrain and scenery. You’ll walk on pavements and tracks through pastures, forests and on flat tracks, as well as alongside roads. However, be prepared for some challenging mountainous terrain, with several steep ascents and descents. Despite the difficulty, the breathtaking views from the peaks make it worth it. The rolling hills and stunning scenery of Spain make it a unique and unforgettable experience.
Stunning scenery on reaching the summit at O’Cebreiro
Preparation and equipment you’ll need
Preparation is key for a satisfying Spanish Camino experience, regardless of distance. An adequate level of fitness is necessary.
Your Footwear
Most important are the walking shoes you decide to wear. Many hikers find they are comfortable completing the journey in regular sports shoes while others will use more sturdier hiking shoes or boots. During the summer months, some walkers will use hiking sandals. Whichever type of footwear you decide to use, you should wear them in. The best way to do this is to use them in your pre-walk training with good socks, which breathe well and are blister-proof.
Camino walk days will vary between 20-30km so it’s also important to prepare your body for the task of getting up to walk for good lengths of time day after day and varying terrain between flat and steeper and rockier hill tracks.
We used La Sportiva hiking shoes for our journey and took an extra pair of trainers as a backup. Our La Sportiva took us the full distance to Santiago de Compostella. While there was no tread left on the soles of the shoes when we reached Santiago de Compostella they provided sturdy footing through final climbs and descents.
Hiking Poles or not?
Hiking poles can be a great support and assist with your footing, especially when you’re trekking up and down steep tracks. However, it’s important to consider the weight of the poles before purchasing them. You should also consider how much you think you will need them as it will determine whether you should opt for collapsible poles or not. We noticed that some people used hiking poles consistently on flat terrain, while others used them mainly for steeper climbs and descents. On the other hand, some preferred to hike without poles altogether.
We found our poles extremely useful and used them consistently finding them extremely useful for stability on the steeper descents and assistance on the ascents. The poles also provided an opportunity to include an upper-body workout when we used them on the flat. Our poles were collapsible and purchased from Decathlon which we could store on the side of our daypacks to pull out for use whenever we found the necessity.
Your Backpack
The backpack you decide to use will be determined by whether you wish to walk with a full backpack containing all your belongings or just a daypack with just the daily essentials.
If you decide to walk with a full backpack it is good to know that the trail is well supported where accommodations and townships provide laundry facilities so you do not need to overpack with extra items. To ensure safety and enjoyment of the walk our research indicates that you should not carry more than 10-15% of your body weight.
You can arrange to have your luggage transferred daily to your next accommodation, lightening your load and making your journey more comfortable. Many companies offer this service along the Camino route, and you can use it whenever you need to take a break or travel light.
We decided to take advantage of the transfer facility to allow us the pleasure of enjoying the Camino experience. Our lightweight High Sierra mini backpacks were compact and with enough room to store the belongings, we needed to carry for a day’s walk.
Be weather prepared
The Camino’s weather can vary, so be prepared with a rain jacket and backpack cover for a comfortable walk.
Summer weather can be unpredictable on the pilgrimage. The south of France and the last stage from Sarria can be particularly unpredictable. Northern Spain can be cool in the early mornings during summer, so we used rain jackets as an extra layer of protection for the first hour of the morning. After that, we could fold them away.
Wayfinding
One of the benefits of the revival of the Camino Frances route is that the entire path is now well-identified by the legendary scallop shell symbol. Posts with the symbol and distance to Santiago de Compostela line the route with yellow arrows on footpaths and sides of buildings to guide pilgrims in navigating through the larger cities.
Wayfinding on the Camino de Santiago
There are a few mobile phone apps available that provide maps, guidance on the terrain, real-time alerts and information on the villages, towns and cities you will visit along with information on accommodation availability.
Our travel arranger provided us with details notes in small booklet form which we could carry in our backpacks. We found, however, that the signage was so good that we only had to refer to the booklets a few times. In larger cities, Google Maps sufficed to help us find our accommodation and we did not use an app.
Our guidebook was incredibly helpful during our journey. It provided information on every place we visited and helped us prepare for each day’s walk. This is a must-have for anyone planning to travel the Camino independently.
Services and facilities on the route
Food and drink
Cafes and bars appear often as you pass through small towns on the track where you can stop for coffee, top up on water and have a bite to eat. It’s always good to be prepared though by carrying small snacks to sustain you along. We always had either a protein bar or a small bag of nuts in our backpack. And, if available, we picked up a piece of fruit at breakfast to eat on the way.
Temporary cafes are set up for pilgrims on the longer stretches where there are no other facilities
If you’re looking for a meal at the end of the day, many restaurants and albergues on the Camino offer a “Pilgrims menu” which is a three-course meal consisting of a starter, main and dessert. Prices will vary depending on the quality of the restaurant. Our package also included a bottle of local wine every evening with our meal.
Restrooms
There are no public restrooms on the Camino. The best option, if you need to visit a bathroom is to buy a snack or drink at a cafe and use their facilities.
Things to remember when walking the Camino de Santiago
Pilgrim’s Credential and Compostela
Your Compostela is the official certificate recognising the completion of the Camino de Santiago or at least 100km. The Compostela certificate is issued at the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago de Compostela not far from the Cathedral.
To earn your Compostela you need to have a Pilgrim’s Credential, also known as Pilgrim’s Passport. This Passport is a folded card that has space for you to have your journey stamped along the way. The document should be stamped at least twice a day and there are many places where you can have your card stamped, such as churches, cathedrals, monuments, tourist information points, cafes, and accommodations. Each stamp is unique to the establishment and serves as a great memory of the places you’ve visited along the way.
If you’re starting the Camino in St. Jean Pied de Port, you can collect your Passport from the Pilgrim’s Office there for a couple of Euros. You’ll also find many shops, churches, albergues and hotels selling them on the route.
The Passport doesn’t have an expiry date so if you’re completing the Camino in stages over time, you can continue to use it until you have reached Santiago de Compostela.
Collect your scallop shell
The scallop shells are considered a significant symbol of the pilgrimage, and you can spot them everywhere, including on the route waymarkers. Though not mandatory, it is a common practice among pilgrims to attach a scallop shell to their backpacks to identify themselves as pilgrims on the Camino. You can either bring a scallop shell from home or purchase one from the Welcome Office in St. Jean Pied de Port before commencing your journey, or from one of the many stalls or shops along the way.
Camino etiquette
It is important to remember that all hikers in the Camino are travelling at their own pace. Some walk faster or slower than others. On narrower tracks, it’s polite to step aside to where you can to allow fellow pilgrims to pass by acknowledging you with the Camino greeting “Buen Camino”.
“Buen Camino” has varying meanings on the Camino. It’s used as a hello, goodbye, or have a good walk. The greeting feels like a form of comradeship between pilgrims undertaking the journey.
You’ll find not only pilgrims using the greeting between themselves. Locals will bid you “Buen Camino” as you pass them in the streets in small villages and towns or as you leave a cafe or store.
One thing to be mindful of is that many walkers are on their own journey and may want to walk part or even the whole Camino in solitude. It is important to respect each pilgrim.
The Camino is not a “race”
If you want to complete the Camino de Santiago and reach Santiago de Compostela safely and without injury, it’s important to pace yourself each and every day. Remember you will be getting up to walk another 20-30km again the next day. We were fortunate to complete the Camino without injury or the dreaded blisters that haunt many a pilgrim.
Our simple tactic was to ensure we used our hiking poles when climbing but more importantly on the steep descents, we stopped regularly to rest and take our shoes and socks off to allow our feet to breathe and, every day, no matter how tired we were, we unrolled our travel yoga mats to complete 30-40 minutes of yoga and stretching.
Another benefit of taking it slow is being able to notice the small things happening around you, enjoy the experience and capture moments which become lifelong memories.
Our travel arrangers
For peace of mind, we decided to engage travel arrangers, UTracks to complete arrangements on our behalf for the Camino portion of our travel. UTracks are an arm of the World Expeditions Group specialising in active travel.
UTracks and their Spanish partners, Tee Travel provided us with a suggested self-guided walking itinerary with recommendations for extra night stays to allow us time to explore the larger cities and their attractions and then tailored our Camino walk to our requirements. The package included accommodation, breakfasts and dinners, transfers back to the accommodation at the end of the day and return to the start point the next day where adequate accommodation was unavailable in smaller towns, trip notes, luggage transfers, pilgrim’s passport and emergency hotline.
We cannot recommend them highly enough.
Want to know more
We’ve tried to include as much general information as we can above. If there is anything we haven’t covered and if you have specific questions when considering or preparing to undertake the walk, we are more than happy to provide more information from our experience. Visit our Contact Us page for our contact details.
If you’d like to know more, follow our journey from Day 1where we share our daily experiences walking the Camino de Santiago
We made our way from the railway station to Rue de France, the starting point for the ‘Camino’ after arriving in St Jean Pied de Port by train from Paris via Bordeaux and Bayonne to commence walking the full Camino de Santiago, the Way of St James (Camino Frances).
Our small hotel, Hotel Restaurante Ramuntcho was on the street corner and our room, like most accommodations in St. Jean, was small but cosy. The hotels and hostels here mainly cater for Camino walkers like us who are in town for just an overnight stay.
During the day, many campers and daytrippers visit St. Jean and the surrounding countryside to enjoy the lush greenery and escape the heat of the cities. The town’s streets and cafes are bustling with activity.
Before long the daytrippers move on to leave the town for the pilgrims to explore, buy any last-minute items, visit the Pilgrim’s Office to collect their pilgrim passport or like us, walk up to the Citadel for its scenic views of the countryside around St Jean Pied de Port or walk over the picturesque old Roman Bridge over the River Nive called Pilgrim’s Bridge.
Pilgrim’s Bridge, which all pilgrims cross to commence the Camino de Santiago from St. Jean Pied de Port
Day 1 – St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Filled with excitement and a hint of nervousness, we were prepared to leave by 8 a.m. the next morning when it started raining heavily. Fifteen minutes later, as the dark clouds loomed overhead and concerned about the possibility of more wet weather we donned our rain jackets and set off. Eager pilgrims had left earlier, leaving only a couple of other stragglers like us departing over St. Jean’s Pilgrim’s Bridge.
Orisson
The first eight kilometres to Orisson are challenging, the trek uphill starting almost as soon as we leave St. Jean on terrain that varies between dirt tracks and tarmac roads. Hiking poles helped to take the pressure off our legs and provided stability as we maintained a slow and steady pace. The surrounding farmland and the scenery provided a good distraction, even with cloud cover.
Orisson is a small hamlet in the Pyrenees and consists of a single building, Orisson Refuge. The Refuge offers overnight accommodations for pilgrims who want to break up the long and arduous day of walking over the Pyrenees, making it an excellent way to embark on the trek. A café caters to hikers who choose to complete the crossing in one day. The large deck provides sweeping views of the surrounding countryside.
We planned to stop at Orisson for lunch since there are no facilities between Orisson and Roncesvalles. We arrived there within two hours. Some hikers who had started earlier in the morning had already arrived, and we recognized many faces from the day before. Even though it was still mid-morning we opted for an early lunch and a comfort break before continuing our journey.
Refuge Orisson is the only established stop on the first day of the Camino from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
We quickly find ourselves enveloped in a thick mist, we ascend higher after leaving Orisson. Our visibility was sometimes reduced to a mere 10-20 meters, making single walkers ahead appear like ghostly figures approaching us instead of moving forward. We could hear cowbells ringing in the distance, but the herds were nowhere in sight.
Onward to Roncesvalles
After a few hours, a pile of stones emerged from the mist with a sign indicating the way to Roncevalles (Roncevaux in French). Other pilgrims arrived and pondered whether this was the right path. The route passed through pastures while a tarmac road was only a few metres away. We consulted our trip notes and they confirmed that we should take the farm track, so we set off. As we continued, we looked back but saw no one else following us. Despite this, we marched on with confidence.
As we walked along, the track became increasingly misty and muddy. We came across a flock of sheep lazily sitting on the path. We followed a couple of stray sheep for a while, we soon lost sight of them and continued. It seemed like we were the only ones around until we stumbled upon two people taking a break on a stone bench in a damp rest area. Feeling reassured, we trudged through a long stretch of muddy track that led us downhill. Once again, we saw no one until a pair of young pilgrims caught up with us and passed us.
The trail suddenly opened to a dirt and gravel path, and the mist lifted, revealing the way ahead. Although there was still a lot of uphill and downhill walking, we could now see where we were heading.
After reaching the highest point for the day, Col de Leopoeder (1450m), we took a break and observed other hikers starting their challenging descent down a rocky path. The descent was more difficult than the ascent, but we appreciated trekking through a stunning beech forest before arriving at our lodging in Roncesvalles. And the sun was finally out.
Roncesvalles
Roncesvalles is a tiny hamlet with a few buildings comprising a monastery including a church, Iglesia de la Colegiata de Santa Maria, an Albergue (hostel) and a monastery museum. Our overnight stay is in Casa de los Beneficiados, a modern apartment hotel located in the old pilgrim’s hospital within the complex.
After freshening up we took a stroll around the complex but it was not long before we were driven inside with more rain. There was no choice but to go and journal over a glass of wine in the bar where we met a couple we had seen hiking the trail earlier in the day and then again on the final stretch to Roncesvalles. We had such a good time exchanging our day’s experience that we continued over dinner.
The monastery complex in Roncesvalles
The first day of the Camino Frances is deemed to be the toughest because of the steep ascent and equally steep descent into the Spanish town of Roncesvalles. The views and scenery on a good day are meant to be spectacular. Being shrouded in mist nearly all the way meant we missed what was supposed to be a picturesque crossing over the Pyrenees from France into Spain. We were grateful however not to have to complete it in the rain.
Walking statistics
24.6km
7 hours including stops
Day 2 – Roncesvalles to Akaretta
After enjoying a satisfying breakfast, we were ready for another day of walking. The sun was shining and the trail was visible. We crossed the street and saw a road sign for drivers that read “Santiago de Compostela – 790km.” Our journey began on level ground, with the trail running parallel to the road.
Before long we entered a beautiful forest filled with beech and oak trees, we learned that it was known as The Witches Forest. White witches used to gather there before they were persecuted in the 16th century. We found the La Cruz Blanca outside the forest – a cross for travellers’ divine protection.
Walking along trails through meadows, surrounded by green hills and wooded areas, we pass through several small towns in quick succession:
Burguete – a township of whitewashed houses known as Hemingway’s village because the writer loved to visit the town for trout fishing
Espinal – a resident greets walkers and directs them to his café tucked away off the main street.
Biskarreta or Guerendiain, in Basque – A charming town where we stroll, reading engraved plaques that reveal the date and history of each house.
The church – a pretty scene in Burguete
Zubiri
After trekking for 22 kilometres, many hikers opt to spend the night in Zubiri, also known as the “town of the bridge.” As we crossed the Puente de la Rabia bridge, we saw groups of hikers enjoying the riverbank or taking a refreshing dip in the water. Zubiri has been around since 1040 and relies on the pilgrims passing through and the magnesite factory which we pass on our way out of town.
Camino hikers cooling off by the river in Zubiri
The town is modern and ideal for a rest, lunch of Spanish tortillas and coffee before continuing 6km to Akerreta for our overnight stop.
We cross back over the bridge to get back on the track and after a walk uphill, we’re back on level ground for a time walking through woods alongside the river and pretty meadows lined with wildflowers and spotted with hay bales. There’s one more small town to pass through, Larrasoana, an old monastery town where only the 13th-century church remains. We stopped to stamp our pilgrims’ passports to find the church closed but the stamp and stamp pad set up on a ledge at the entrance.
Pretty wildflower-lined paths alongside meadows accompanied us from Zubiri to Akarreta
Akerreta
One final steep walk uphill on a tarmac road finds us in the tiny settlement of Akerreta (pop 10), and our accommodation, Hotel Akerreta, is right in the centre.
Hotel Akarreta – lovely accommodation and facilities, and gracious hosts
There is not much else to amuse us in the town but the hotel, an 18th-century Basque farmhouse rates a special mention. A family-run hotel is well set up with cosy seating areas and rooms overlooking the countryside. There’s a charming lounge area downstairs with a fireplace where guests can enjoy the picturesque views and relax.
It’s been a long day and once we’re settled in, that’s precisely what we do over pre-dinner cocktails while journalling. Our pre-departure research on the hotel revealed that in 2009, the hotel had been the setting for filming of the movie, The Way starring Martin Sheen. The owner’s daughter, who is on duty regales stories about the making of the movie in the hotel and the star and crew staying in the hotel.
We seem to be the only guests at the hotel until dinnertime when another couple appear to join us in the rustic restaurant. They are not pilgrims but a Dutch couple who are exploring the countryside around Akeretta.
A delicious three-course dinner featuring vegetables and fruit picked from the hotel’s organic garden and products from local producers is a highlight.
With a comfortable bed to sleep in, it was a very satisfying end to a long day.
The highlight of the day
We’ve been seeing a cyclist struggling up the rocky, steep Camino tracks to Akarreta. We encounter him again as we walk up the final hill of the day. He’s loaded with panniers but remains positive and friendly. He leaves us with the wise words, “When you’re in nature, everything is fine.”.
Walking statistics
29km
8 hours including stops
Everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago
Contemplating completing all or part of the Camino de Santiago? Learn everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago here.
Our aim is to inspire. If you enjoyed this post, please feel free to share:
