Days 21 and 22 walking the full Camino de Santiago continued through small towns and villages in the countryside, similar to Days 19 and 20. These were our final days on the Meseta with the highlight of arriving in Leon at the end of Day 22 where we spent an extra night exploring the ritzy city.
Day 21 – El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
We were up early and ready for breakfast by 6:30 am. Unlike the day before, the cafe at Hostal Restaurante el Ruedo was open. A few locals were already there having coffee and watching highlights of the America’s Cup yachting race underway in Barcelona.
After devouring another substantial breakfast at leisure we waited in the Plaza for our pick-up. As agreed the previous day, he arrived at 8:00 am for the short drive back to El Burgo Ranero to continue on the Camino trail.
Reliegos
Like the past couple of days, the trail was lined with oak trees and surrounded by wheat fields for 11-12km until we reached the small village of Reliegos. The trail to Reliegos was relatively empty of pilgrims because everyone was breakfasting at a small cafe by the town’s entrance.
The oak tree-lined path to the small town of Reliegos
We noticed a few familiar faces as we sat down to rest over a cold drink. A middle-aged American couple we had seen a few days before were amongst them. The woman seemed to be struggling with blisters on her feet and problems with her knees having braces on both.
Louise the young English woman walking most of the trail with us was there with two young people. Like many others, she had left El Burgo early. After her friends left, she told us that her accommodation and dinner in El Burgo Ranero hadn’t been great, her foot was sore and she was tired. We moved on and despite her injury, she caught up and overtook us.
The rest of Reliegos deserted as we walked through and left it behind.
Walking through the empty streets of Reliegos
The Road to Mansilla de las Mulas
Outside Reliegos, the landscape changed from wheat fields to beautiful green vegetable gardens. There were still a few cornfields on the way.
It was good to see the greenery of the market gardens after days of being surrounded by wheat and corn fields
Crossing the vehicle bridge, the small town of Reliegos suddenly appeared. A long main street lined with buildings selling farming equipment and infrastructure led to the old walled city where we spent the night. Two ladies welcomed us to the town with maps just outside the walls.
Following a quick wander around the old town, we had lunch at a bar across the street from our accommodation. After checking in, yoga, and showering, we went outside to explore.
Remains of the old Roman walls in Mansilla de las Mulas
The streets were still quiet as we walked to the Esla River to view the old Roman walls surrounding the town. Finding the churches closed we were back at the hotel/hostel within an hour.
An unexpectedly relaxing afternoon and evening
We relaxed while watching Netflix in our room before going downstairs to the hotel’s pretty courtyard to journal over a glass of wine. It was early evening and apart from a couple of young Dutch and Austrian pilgrims who were loudly discussing their personal lives, we were the only people there.
Louise arrived just as we finished journalling and joined us for a glass of wine and dinner. She was staying at another accommodation but our hostel’s bar and restaurant are highly recommended for an excellent meal.
The recommendation was confirmed as the evening progressed and many pilgrims and locals filtered in and out for their evening meal. Camille, the young French Canadian teacher we met on Day 16 of walking the full Camino de Santiago also arrived.
Our accommodation
When we first walked into the reception area Albergueria del Camino looked quirky. However, our first impressions were quickly replaced with delight once we entered our tastefully furnished room overlooking the indoor courtyard.
Albergue del Camino in Mansilla de las Mulas
The courtyard, covered in grapevines, provided the perfect ambience for relaxation after walking. Dinner was also served in the courtyard.
The courtyard of our accommodation where we could relax and enjoy our evening meal
Our evening meal lived up to expectations: fresh juicy peaches stuffed with crab for entree; fish or chicken meatballs with a rich homemade tomato sauce and vegetables were the options for the main dish; and a choice of custard sprinkled with cinnamon, Greek yoghurt with honey and nuts or lemon cream for dessert.
Walking statistics
19km
4 hours including a rest break
Day 21 – Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon
We were downstairs for breakfast before 7 am to find that we were the only ones ready for breakfast. We were served a hearty breakfast of yoghurt topped with honey and dried fruit, toast, fried eggs, cheeses, fresh orange juice, and coffee.
There was a chill in the air, so we checked the outside temperature and donned our rain jackets to provide warmth and protection from the morning chill. Within 90 minutes, the sun had warmed up and we packed them into our backpacks.
The path outside of Mansilla de las Mulas on the way to Leon
Meandering through the final stages of the Meseta
The Camino path took us back to and over the Roman bridge before leading us along a tree-lined trail. At first, it is along the roadside and, after a while, meanders into the countryside, but it is never far from the main road and State highway passing through two towns: the smaller Villamoros de Mansilla and the larger Puente Villarente.
The trail between Puente Villarente and Leon
We found the French family of mum, dad, son, and the American couple at our rest and comfort stop in Arcahueja. The American lady who had been distressed the day before looked more comfortable. Canadian Camille was there too and we continued walking and chatting for a while but she was quite unwell with a heavy cold. In the interests of our health, we kept a wide berth.
On the outskirts of Leon
The 7 km trail leading into León runs alongside the road, but it is never on the road. Approaching León, there are many industrial buildings. Our guidebook recommends that pilgrims who want to avoid the roadside consider taking a bus to León.
Then suddenly, walking over a rise, Leon City appeared before us! We made out the spires of the Cathedral and the old town in the distance with the suburbs surrounding it.
Views of Leon as we arrived over the ridge.
Leon
The last few kilometres gradually led us through the suburbs and the official Camino path across the old Roman Bridge into the walled old city.
The old Roman bridge leading into Leon
Our hotel was located just outside the old city walls so we continued through Puerta Moneda, the town’s original Roman walls and into the medieval streets and alleyways.
The walls of Leon’so ld city
We entered a small church where Mass was underway before continuing to the elegant Plaza de San Marcelo. Stepping out of Plaza de San Marcelo, we found ourselves in Calle Ancha, leading to the spectacular Catedral de Leon. The street was bustling with well-dressed locals and Camino pilgrims, and the buildings lining the street took our breath away.
Santa Maria de Leon Cathedral
We had the fortune of arriving in Leon on the most iconic day of the Camino calendar. St James Feast Day is celebrated on 25 July every year. It was a public holiday and many were visiting the Cathedral.
The Cathedral de Leon dominates Plaza de Regla at one end. Cafes and restaurants look out to it from the other three sides. It’s a spectacular church with distinctive rose and beautiful stained-glass windows.
Stunning Leon Cathedral
Kevin, our young fellow pilgrim from Mexico, spotted us as we emerged from the Cathedral, ran over, and invited us to join his mum and him at the cafe overlooking the square. We enjoyed catching up on their experience as we had not seen them on the trail for a few days.
A quick wander around Leon
Leon is an artistic treat with regal buildings inside and outside the Roman walls, churches and museums, fountains and statues at roundabouts. After checking into our hotel we returned to the Old Town. There was much to see and do.
We started by visiting the Plaza Mayor before walking through the back streets to the Cathedral. We enjoyed a Tinto de Verano (red wine spritz) in the plaza people-watching and the atmosphere.
The distinctive buildings surrounding Leon’s Plaza Mayor
Kevin’s mum, Veronika, Kevin’s mum, walked past and we beckoned her to join us for an aperitif. She’d been out exploring. We discussed her life in Mexico and her feelings about walking the Camino. Our discussion was conducted over Google Translate. Veronika speaks little English, and our Spanish is not fluent enough to converse intelligently. Her perspective on the whole Camino de Santiago experience was refreshing. She was living a lifelong dream by completing the pilgrimage.
We bid Veronika farewell, she and Kevin would be continuing their journey the next day while we stayed on to explore. An extra day to explore, we returned to a quiet local bar across from our hotel to journal before dinner saving the best for the next day when we were rested.
Our accommodation
Our accommodation for the next two nights was the Hotel Silken Luis de Leon. It is a comfortable, modern hotel close to the old city, making it the perfect place to stay.
Our standard hotel room provided us with all the usual amenities and was spacious enough to accommodate us for the extra night we stayed in Leon.
Dinner on our first evening and breakfast on both mornings were in the hotel’s restaurant, Las Medulas. Unfortunately, the restaurant was on the lower floor with no natural lighting. While our meals were delicious and substantial, our dining experience on our first evening was not as would be expected from a hotel of this calibre.
We described the experience as our “Fawlty Towers experience”. A lone waiter contended with serving guests in the restaurant while juggling answering the phone to take orders for room service and delivering these to the kitchen. He was up bright and early to host breakfast but this time, he had assistance.
20km
5 hours including a rest break
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.
Learn more about walking the Camino de Santiago here.
In case you missed it
Follow our 38-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.
Walking the full Camino de Santiago became a ritual and meditative. We no longer thought about how strenuous or not our day’s walk would be or the distance. Day 19 found us in Sahagun, a lovely and lively town to stay in after the quiet night in Calzadilla de la Cueza. We were fortunate to return for a further overnight stay after our walk on Day 20. Learn more about why below.
Day 19 – Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun
We were up and ready early for breakfast. Our fellow guests had already left apart from Louise, who arrived just as we finished breakfast.
We were on the road at 7:30 a.m. after our host had served us a breakfast of fried eggs swimming in oil with slices of toasted baguette. Louise, who wasn’t far behind, caught up, confirming that her breakfast was as unhealthy as ours before she hurried ahead.
The Pilgrim’s Path or the Official Path?
Signage along the Camino trail comes in all shapes and forms. As we approached the town of Ledigos, we stopped to look at rock formations shaped like arrows pointing the way. We started a conversation with a young man who had also paused momentarily. He lives in Melbourne, Australia, and was walking the Camino de Santiago hoping to find a new direction in life.
Inspecting the signage on the Camino de Santiago
The Camino path splits in Ledigos offering two route options: the Pilgrim’s Path and the Official Path. Our young Australian decided to take the route through Ledigos hoping to find a cafe. Instead, we followed the official one, a pleasant walk in the countryside, away from the road.
Hobbit houses and knitting in Moratinos
We walked around the outskirts of the small settlement of Terradillos de los Templarios on the path that leads into the quaint town of Moratinos.
The small underground wine and food storage cellars instantly caught our attention. The “hobbit houses” are common in this area and a part of the wine culture that dates back 2,000 years to the Romans. Some open up for family gatherings and parties around cellar doors.
One of the underground bodegas set in the hillside at the entrance to Moratinos
The highlight of this sleepy town is the small church square where residents have strung knitted and crocheted creations around the square and trees giving it a bright and festive atmosphere. We sat down to rest in the shade of the peaceful church verandah and admired the knitted pieces.
Colourful knitted creations strung around the church square in Moratinos
Sahagun
Arriving in Sahagun, the Camino detours, taking pilgrims past the old hermitage Ermita de la Virgen del Puente and across a medieval double-arched bridge ending in a shady tree rest area. After taking the Pilgrim’s Path, Louise arrived behind us. It was hot, but the walk had not been difficult.
Ermita de la Virgen del Puenta and the double-arched bridge under which there was water flowing.
We walked the rest of the way to Sahagun together and arrived at Avenida de la Constitution, where Saturday markets are in full swing. There was a wonderful atmosphere. After buying cherries and apricots, we all went to Plaza Mayor for lunch. Louise introduced us to the refreshing summertime drink to quench our thirst, Tinto de Verano (red wine and soda water served with orange and lemon slices).
Saturday morning markets in Sahagun
With our bellies filled, we waved goodbye to Louise, whose accommodation was back at the town’s entrance, and checked into our hotel just from our Plaza Mayor lunch venue. Once settled, stretched, and refreshed, we had another job: laundering our clothes at the laundromat we had passed on the way into town.
Exploring in Sahagun
While we waited for our washing, we walked around the corner to the Iglesia de la Trinidad to get our Pilgrim Passports stamped. With its apse from the 13th century and the rest of the building built in the 16th century, the church is no longer a place of worship. It has been restored and now provides accommodation for pilgrims. As we queued, Aubern, the young French man we first met travelling with companions in Azofra on Day 10 appeared. He was staying in the albergue, one of the most comfortable Camino hostels.
The colourful facade of Iglesia de San Juan and the Iglesia de la Trinidad (now an albergue) next door
Our passports stamped, we bid goodbye to Aubern and went next door to the Baroque church, Iglesia de San Juan. Originally built in the 16th century, the people of Sahagun hold the church in their hearts because it holds the tombs of two brothers martyred by the Romans in 303 AD. We could only admire the church from the outside, it is only open for daily mass at 10:00 am and 8:30 pm.
Many towns and villages on the Camino de Santiago path have wonderful murals on building walls welcoming pilgrims
At the laundromat, the proprietors arrived to collect coins from the slot machines and engaged in a loud and heated verbal altercation with another person. They were speaking too fast in Spanish for us to grasp the context of the argument. We sat to one side pretending to read on our phones keeping an ear out in case we caught a word or two we could understand.
An evening in Sahagun
Once our chores were completed, we had a pre-dinner aperitif in Plaza Mayor before dinner.
Plaza Mayor is the heart of Sahagun where locals come to socialise
As the day’s heat waned, locals emerged to socialize in and around the square. We thoroughly enjoyed people-watching while journaling, soaking in the Saturday evening atmosphere. Some gathered with friends over drinks, while others engaged in conversation in the square, watching their children as they played in the open space.
Our accommodation
Luckily, unlike some of our fellow pilgrims, who were staying in lodgings on the outskirts of town, we had been assigned a room at Hostal Restaurante el Ruedo II in the heart of Sahagun. Located in Plaza Mayor we were fortunate to walk downstairs and step into the square where the main restaurants and cafes were.
Our room was comfortable and clean with enough room to roll out our yoga mats. This was fortunate since we stayed there for two nights.
Our delicious evening meals on both evenings were served in a Michelin restaurant, Restaurante Luis while our breakfasts were downstairs in the cafe at Hostal Restaurante el Ruedo.
Walking statistics
23km
5 hours including a rest break
Day 20 – Sahagun to El Burgo Ranero
Our day’s walk took us to the small town of El Burgos Ranera. The town has limited accommodation so we would return to Sahagun for the night.
Not having to pack, we were ready for breakfast before 7 am. Two brothers owned the lodgings (4 rooms) and restaurant. Having been open until late the night before, we found the younger brother was on duty and had just arrived to open. There were just the two of us for breakfast and within a few minutes, he had toasted baguettes, a platter with a selection of meats, and cheese accompanied by honey and jam, yoghurt and fresh orange juice and fruit on our table.
The road to El Burgo Ranero
Fortified, we were on the road at 7:30 am to find a nice surprise on the way out of Sahagun: the ruins of the San Benito Monastery; and the town portal. We made a mental note to return in the evening to explore.
Outside of Sahagun, the track is beautiful under poplar trees alongside a little used road. A local lady with hiking poles passed us walking towards Sahagun on what looked like her daily walk. We came across her again in Bercianos.
The tree-lined path to Bercianos del Ral Camino
Glancing back, the “blue singlet” man followed us until the Camino trail divided again. We took the Camino Real which ended directly at our destination, El Burgo Ranero. The other route takes pilgrims past the small town of Calzadella de los Hermanillos.
Bercianos del Real Camino
A hermitage, Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Perales, housing the town’s protectress, stands outside Bercianos del Real Camino, where we stopped to look.
Ermita de la Virgen de Perales
Louise, one of our travelling companions, arrived. She had been following not far behind from Sahagun. She had commented in Sahagun that she was exhausted and today said she had slowed her pace. We continued while Louise stayed longer to have a look inside the hermitage.
Art on the school building in Bercianos del Real Camino
Bercianos del Real Camino is a small village with less than 200 inhabitants. On our way through, we spotted the lady with hiking poles conversing with her neighbours. With no major attractions, we quickly passed through the village.
El Burgo Ranero
The remainder of the trail was flat and on the tarmac so we arrived in El Burgo Ranero by 11:30 am. We had plenty of time to spare before the taxi collected us to return to Sahagun.
El Burgo Ranero is a small town of approximately 250 people. It thrives on three industries: grain, sheep farming and servicing Camino pilgrims.
We first found our taxi pick-up point, the cafe, Cafeteria La Costa del Adobe. It was not difficult, there was only one main street and the cafe was midway along.
People-watching in El Burgo Ranero
Before exploring the township and because we hadn’t stopped for a rest we sat on a bench by the pretty little village church, San Pedro. The church was closed but while we sat savouring the cherries from the markets in Sahagun a couple of women arrived and before long rhythmic sounds of hymns emanated from inside.
A little while later, family groups arrived to socialise outside. We enjoyed sitting back and engaging in more people-watching before they entered for the service.
Parishioners gather at San Pedro church in El Burgo Ranero
Then it was time to explore the town. We had read about the lagoon which we found behind the church. It was a pool of water with some reeds around it!
The lagoon
After conducting another minute of reconnaissance, we met our friend Aubern, who was also exploring. He confirmed that he had found nothing and it would be a long afternoon with little to do. His companions had returned to France. We were glad to be returning to Sahagun for the night.
With little else to see, we settled for lunch at a table in the pretty garden of La Costa del Adobe cafe. We watched families having Sunday lunch after church and treated ourselves to the cafe’s delicious homemade ice cream.
Walking statistics
18km
3 hours and 45 minutes with no rest break
Back in Sahagun for the night
As arranged, our taxi driver arrived to take us back to our lodgings in Sahagun. The drive back which took us several hours to walk was a mere 15 minutes!
Sunday evening in Plaza Mayor
Stretched, showered and refreshed we relaxed over drinks at El Ruedo before returning to Restaurant Luis. Because we had an early meal the previous evening, we had been the only guests in the dining room. This time, we requested to sit in the bar area in the front to have our meal so we could see activity in the Plaza while we ate. They happily obliged.
We ended the evening by listening to a local brass band performing in the plaza’s rotunda, and then we took a stroll to admire the San Benito ruins.
The ruins of the San Benito Monastery
Highlights of the day
As the days passed, we formed bonds with other pilgrims we met while walking the full Camino de Santiago. It was always encouraging to hear about our fellow pilgrims and how they were faring.
We had not seen Aubern for many days, so we were happy to see Aubern again. He was coping well with his walking pace having started his Camino from Paris.
Louise updated us on our fellow pilgrim gang. The evening before, in Sahagun, she had dined with Martin from England and Kevin from Mexico in the albergue where they had all stayed:
Martin had departed in the early hours for El Burgo Ranero. His tour arranger had secured accommodation for him in rooms above a service station just outside of El Burgo Ranero.
Kevin and his mum, Veronika were still in Sahagun having a “rest day”. They spent their “rest day” completing the last 5km from Moratinos to Sahagun which they had abandoned the day before after each drank too much wine over a large lunch in Moratinos and had to catch a taxi to Sahagun. When we had walked through Moratinos but obviously, there was when they did! Our walking days will synchronise after we have a rest day in Leon.
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and indeed, experience northern Spain.
Learn more about walking the Camino de Santiago here.
In case you missed it
Follow our 38-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.
On a trip to Spain a few years ago, we visited Santiago de Compostela. Roaming the historic district, we saw pilgrims who had just completed the Camino de Santiago. Despite carrying heavy backpacks, they arrived at Obradoiro Square with unwavering determination. Exhaustion on their faces turned into pure joy as they approached the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Piqued by our curiosity about what makes this place so unique, we decided to embark on the 780km journey ourselves. If you’re considering taking on this incredible journey, we’re pleased to be able to tell you everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago.
A little history on walking the Camino de Santiago
Whether you know it as the Camino de Santiago, Camino Frances, the French Way or The Way of St James, the Camino has existed for more than 1000 years as a Christian pilgrimage route.
During medieval times, the Camino was renowned as one of the top three Christian pilgrimages. Pilgrims followed the route to Santiago de Compostela, where legend tells that the remains of Saint James lie in the Cathedral. Saint James is said to have played a crucial role in spreading the religion throughout the Iberian Peninsula.
Traditionally, the Camino began on the pilgrim’s doorstep, wherever that was. However, today, for most pilgrims, it more commonly starts in the small village of St. Jean Pied de Port in southern France and follows several routes to finish in Santiago de Compostela in north-western Spain.
The medieval pilgrim undertook the arduous pilgrimage for religious reasons seeking forgiveness for their sins or to ask for assistance in some way. You do not have to be a Christian pilgrim to complete the walk. Today, the modern pilgrim undertakes the walk for a range of reasons – religious, spiritual, historical, cultural or just the physical challenge.
How was the route created?
Our research suggests that the route was originally conveyed by word of mouth. Pilgrims provided each other with advice on the best route and which places to stop at. Over time, this developed into a well-trodden route from which Book V of the Codex Calixtinus: A Guide for the Traveller evolved in the 12th century.
After medieval times, pilgrimage decreased in popularity mainly due to religious wars and reformation. Pilgrims continued to walk the Camino, however, the numbers completing the journey were nowhere near the 250,000 people that undertook the journey annually.
A resurgence in interest in the Camino pilgrimage came about in the 1980s when Father Elías Valiña Sampedro, the priest of the Galician village of O Cebreiro, marked the ancient route with yellow arrows so that pilgrims could easily find the way. And, so the modern-day Camino was born. Today, over 400,000 individuals from all corners of the world walk the Camino de Santiago every year.
Pilgrims undertaking the Camino from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela. One of the busiest portions of the Camino de Santiago
Everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago
Do you have to walk the whole of the Camino de Santiago?
You do not have to be a Christian pilgrim to complete the walk, neither do you have to complete the full Camino de Santiago.
We met many time-poor walkers who completed the 780km walk in portions over years during vacations or finished the final 100km from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela for the pilgrim’s certificate.
If you’re interested in nature and experiencing the beautiful Spanish countryside, again, there are many options available on where to start and stop. Rail and bus services are available to the larger towns and cities on the Camino trail, making them perfect to commence and finish from without having to walk the full distance.
We decided to undertake the complete route over 38 days, which included an extra night each in the two cities we had not visited before: Logrono and Leon, allowing us time to explore them more comprehensively. For those who have more time and prefer not to pre-book accommodation, there is ample opportunity to extend the walk to however long you wish.
When to go
Most guidebooks recommend doing the walk during the more pleasant cooler months, typically between April and June or September to November. Winter months, bring snow to some parts of the track, and most accommodations close down for the winter. If you intend to do the walk during the recommended months it’s important to book your accommodation early and be aware that the trail may be heavily congested at times.
If you are not concerned about hot weather, the trail is less crowded during the European summer months of July and August. While you will still find other pilgrims on the way there will be fewer of them. Be prepared to make earlier starts to your walking day to ensure that you are not walking during the hottest part of the day.
Note: We walked the Camino in July and early August and encountered several hot days. By commencing earlier in the morning we ensured that we had completed walking before the hottest part of the day which is usually after 3pm in the north of Spain. Walking during this time of the year ensured there were fewer rainy days which we preferred over the heat.
Where to stay when walking the Camino de Santiago
Accommodation on the Camino is available for all budgets, from traditional albergues to luxury hotels and everything in between depending on the size of the township.
Albergues
Albergues (hostels) are the traditional accommodation on the Camino. They are based on the medieval pilgrim hospitals which offered simple overnight lodgings at minimal cost. The accommodation is normally communal with shared dormitories and facilities and available for one night only.
The Albergue in the small hamlet of San Juan de Ortega is attached to the church and old monastery
Albergues are widely used by walkers looking for flexibility in their daily walking distances because they cannot be booked ahead of time and are offered on a first-come, first-served basis. If the hostel at your preferred overnight destination is fully booked when you arrive, you can walk further to the next town or return to the last town you passed to try your luck. The upside is that there are plenty of albergues on the Camino route.
Guesthouses/Casa Rurales
The Casa Rural where we stayed overnight in Rabanal del Camino
In Spain, “Casa Rurales” are small, family-run accommodations located in towns where there are no hotels available. These are unique boutique places to stay that offer an authentic Spanish experience, where old homes have been restored to retain the architecture of the area. Along the Camino, they are the perfect way to experience the local way of life, traditional foods, and hospitality. Casas usually have a few bedrooms, each with private bathroom facilities, and the hosts provide breakfasts and dinners.
Hotels
On the Camino, you’ll find hotels in the larger towns and there’s usually one to suit all budgets. Like most other countries they range on a scale of one to five stars. You’ll see the star rating on a sign at the entrance along with a capital “H”, the sign indicating that the accommodation is a hotel.
Our very comfortable and modern hotel in the picturesque town of Molinaseca
Slightly smaller towns may have hotel accommodations but they may not be highly starred. All of them do, however, provide basic amenities and are comfortable enough if you are only staying overnight.
Paradores
Spain is well known for its Paradores, premium luxury accommodations converted from castles and monasteries. A few are located on the Camino trail, mainly former monasteries, where you can book accommodation. They’re a great way to live within the monastic surroundings and often have spectacular cloisters that are only accessible to guests.
The Monasterio de San Zoilo where we enjoyed an overnight stay
Where we stayed on our Camino experience
We had the wonderful opportunity to stay in various accommodations on our Camino experience. While we didn’t stay in the traditional shared accommodation in albergues, in small towns without options, we stayed in private rooms with our facilities located next to or within albergues. The facilities were clean and comfortable, and the meals provided were of excellent quality and quantity.
In larger towns, our hotel offerings ranged between 3 and 4 stars and were conveniently situated in the town centre so we could explore after arrival.
We took the opportunity to upgrade our accommodation to Paradores or equivalents at several destinations and all provided unique and excellent experiences. Read more about them by following our journey.
The terrain
The Camino is a beautiful trail that offers a mix of terrain and scenery. You’ll walk on pavements and tracks through pastures, forests and on flat tracks, as well as alongside roads. However, be prepared for some challenging mountainous terrain, with several steep ascents and descents. Despite the difficulty, the breathtaking views from the peaks make it worth it. The rolling hills and stunning scenery of Spain make it a unique and unforgettable experience.
Stunning scenery on reaching the summit at O’Cebreiro
Preparation and equipment you’ll need
Preparation is key for a satisfying Spanish Camino experience, regardless of distance. An adequate level of fitness is necessary.
Your Footwear
Most important are the walking shoes you decide to wear. Many hikers find they are comfortable completing the journey in regular sports shoes while others will use more sturdier hiking shoes or boots. During the summer months, some walkers will use hiking sandals. Whichever type of footwear you decide to use, you should wear them in. The best way to do this is to use them in your pre-walk training with good socks, which breathe well and are blister-proof.
Camino walk days will vary between 20-30km so it’s also important to prepare your body for the task of getting up to walk for good lengths of time day after day and varying terrain between flat and steeper and rockier hill tracks.
We used La Sportiva hiking shoes for our journey and took an extra pair of trainers as a backup. Our La Sportiva took us the full distance to Santiago de Compostella. While there was no tread left on the soles of the shoes when we reached Santiago de Compostella they provided sturdy footing through final climbs and descents.
Hiking Poles or not?
Hiking poles can be a great support and assist with your footing, especially when you’re trekking up and down steep tracks. However, it’s important to consider the weight of the poles before purchasing them. You should also consider how much you think you will need them as it will determine whether you should opt for collapsible poles or not. We noticed that some people used hiking poles consistently on flat terrain, while others used them mainly for steeper climbs and descents. On the other hand, some preferred to hike without poles altogether.
We found our poles extremely useful and used them consistently finding them extremely useful for stability on the steeper descents and assistance on the ascents. The poles also provided an opportunity to include an upper-body workout when we used them on the flat. Our poles were collapsible and purchased from Decathlon which we could store on the side of our daypacks to pull out for use whenever we found the necessity.
Your Backpack
The backpack you decide to use will be determined by whether you wish to walk with a full backpack containing all your belongings or just a daypack with just the daily essentials.
If you decide to walk with a full backpack it is good to know that the trail is well supported where accommodations and townships provide laundry facilities so you do not need to overpack with extra items. To ensure safety and enjoyment of the walk our research indicates that you should not carry more than 10-15% of your body weight.
You can arrange to have your luggage transferred daily to your next accommodation, lightening your load and making your journey more comfortable. Many companies offer this service along the Camino route, and you can use it whenever you need to take a break or travel light.
We decided to take advantage of the transfer facility to allow us the pleasure of enjoying the Camino experience. Our lightweight High Sierra mini backpacks were compact and with enough room to store the belongings, we needed to carry for a day’s walk.
Be weather prepared
The Camino’s weather can vary, so be prepared with a rain jacket and backpack cover for a comfortable walk.
Summer weather can be unpredictable on the pilgrimage. The south of France and the last stage from Sarria can be particularly unpredictable. Northern Spain can be cool in the early mornings during summer, so we used rain jackets as an extra layer of protection for the first hour of the morning. After that, we could fold them away.
Wayfinding
One of the benefits of the revival of the Camino Frances route is that the entire path is now well-identified by the legendary scallop shell symbol. Posts with the symbol and distance to Santiago de Compostela line the route with yellow arrows on footpaths and sides of buildings to guide pilgrims in navigating through the larger cities.
Wayfinding on the Camino de Santiago
There are a few mobile phone apps available that provide maps, guidance on the terrain, real-time alerts and information on the villages, towns and cities you will visit along with information on accommodation availability.
Our travel arranger provided us with details notes in small booklet form which we could carry in our backpacks. We found, however, that the signage was so good that we only had to refer to the booklets a few times. In larger cities, Google Maps sufficed to help us find our accommodation and we did not use an app.
Our guidebook was incredibly helpful during our journey. It provided information on every place we visited and helped us prepare for each day’s walk. This is a must-have for anyone planning to travel the Camino independently.
Services and facilities on the route
Food and drink
Cafes and bars appear often as you pass through small towns on the track where you can stop for coffee, top up on water and have a bite to eat. It’s always good to be prepared though by carrying small snacks to sustain you along. We always had either a protein bar or a small bag of nuts in our backpack. And, if available, we picked up a piece of fruit at breakfast to eat on the way.
Temporary cafes are set up for pilgrims on the longer stretches where there are no other facilities
If you’re looking for a meal at the end of the day, many restaurants and albergues on the Camino offer a “Pilgrims menu” which is a three-course meal consisting of a starter, main and dessert. Prices will vary depending on the quality of the restaurant. Our package also included a bottle of local wine every evening with our meal.
Restrooms
There are no public restrooms on the Camino. The best option, if you need to visit a bathroom is to buy a snack or drink at a cafe and use their facilities.
Things to remember when walking the Camino de Santiago
Pilgrim’s Credential and Compostela
Your Compostela is the official certificate recognising the completion of the Camino de Santiago or at least 100km. The Compostela certificate is issued at the Pilgrim’s office in Santiago de Compostela not far from the Cathedral.
To earn your Compostela you need to have a Pilgrim’s Credential, also known as Pilgrim’s Passport. This Passport is a folded card that has space for you to have your journey stamped along the way. The document should be stamped at least twice a day and there are many places where you can have your card stamped, such as churches, cathedrals, monuments, tourist information points, cafes, and accommodations. Each stamp is unique to the establishment and serves as a great memory of the places you’ve visited along the way.
If you’re starting the Camino in St. Jean Pied de Port, you can collect your Passport from the Pilgrim’s Office there for a couple of Euros. You’ll also find many shops, churches, albergues and hotels selling them on the route.
The Passport doesn’t have an expiry date so if you’re completing the Camino in stages over time, you can continue to use it until you have reached Santiago de Compostela.
Collect your scallop shell
The scallop shells are considered a significant symbol of the pilgrimage, and you can spot them everywhere, including on the route waymarkers. Though not mandatory, it is a common practice among pilgrims to attach a scallop shell to their backpacks to identify themselves as pilgrims on the Camino. You can either bring a scallop shell from home or purchase one from the Welcome Office in St. Jean Pied de Port before commencing your journey, or from one of the many stalls or shops along the way.
Camino etiquette
It is important to remember that all hikers in the Camino are travelling at their own pace. Some walk faster or slower than others. On narrower tracks, it’s polite to step aside to where you can to allow fellow pilgrims to pass by acknowledging you with the Camino greeting “Buen Camino”.
“Buen Camino” has varying meanings on the Camino. It’s used as a hello, goodbye, or have a good walk. The greeting feels like a form of comradeship between pilgrims undertaking the journey.
You’ll find not only pilgrims using the greeting between themselves. Locals will bid you “Buen Camino” as you pass them in the streets in small villages and towns or as you leave a cafe or store.
One thing to be mindful of is that many walkers are on their own journey and may want to walk part or even the whole Camino in solitude. It is important to respect each pilgrim.
The Camino is not a “race”
If you want to complete the Camino de Santiago and reach Santiago de Compostela safely and without injury, it’s important to pace yourself each and every day. Remember you will be getting up to walk another 20-30km again the next day. We were fortunate to complete the Camino without injury or the dreaded blisters that haunt many a pilgrim.
Our simple tactic was to ensure we used our hiking poles when climbing but more importantly on the steep descents, we stopped regularly to rest and take our shoes and socks off to allow our feet to breathe and, every day, no matter how tired we were, we unrolled our travel yoga mats to complete 30-40 minutes of yoga and stretching.
Another benefit of taking it slow is being able to notice the small things happening around you, enjoy the experience and capture moments which become lifelong memories.
Our travel arrangers
For peace of mind, we decided to engage travel arrangers, UTracks to complete arrangements on our behalf for the Camino portion of our travel. UTracks are an arm of the World Expeditions Group specialising in active travel.
UTracks and their Spanish partners, Tee Travel provided us with a suggested self-guided walking itinerary with recommendations for extra night stays to allow us time to explore the larger cities and their attractions and then tailored our Camino walk to our requirements. The package included accommodation, breakfasts and dinners, transfers back to the accommodation at the end of the day and return to the start point the next day where adequate accommodation was unavailable in smaller towns, trip notes, luggage transfers, pilgrim’s passport and emergency hotline.
We cannot recommend them highly enough.
Want to know more
We’ve tried to include as much general information as we can above. If there is anything we haven’t covered and if you have specific questions when considering or preparing to undertake the walk, we are more than happy to provide more information from our experience. Visit our Contact Us page for our contact details.
If you’d like to know more, follow our journey from Day 1where we share our daily experiences walking the Camino de Santiago
Thick grey clouds hovered over the mountains as we crossed the border from Portugal into Spain. Then the drizzle set in! It was pretty miserable by the time we reached the city of Santiago de Compostela in Spain’s northwestern corner.
It’s only a one night stop for us so we are keen to see as much as we can of this city. We have been drawn here by reading a fellow traveller’s article on visiting this pilgrimage site.
Unlike the more popular cities in Spain, Santiago de Compostela is relatively devoid traditional holidaymakers and tourists. No huge crowds here. Instead, it is the final destination for pilgrims as they complete the Camino de Santiago (Way of St James), a Catholic pilgrimage route dating back to the 9th century leading to what is believed to be the tomb of St James, the apostle.
We have booked to stay in a little boutique hotel in the Old Town, the best place to capture the mood of pilgrims as they enter the Cathedral of St James precinct. The drizzle has stopped so we don’t waste time. We set off to follow the “scallop shells”, the iconic symbol of the Camino de Santiago which lead us through the town to the Cathedral which dominates the town in the grey weather.
The atmosphere, however, is anything but gloomy as we get closer. We admire the beautiful squares that surround the Cathedral looking up to see visitors exploring the rooftop and spires, and pause to watch processions of pilgrims who have walked the Camino follow the cobbled pathway to the main square.
We are moved by the emotions of joy and elation on faces of the tired and bedraggled pilgrims as they are bagpiped by a trio of buskers through the final tunnel. Many have walked the Camino in search of their own spiritual enlightenment. I still get goosebumps and tingles down my spine whenever I recall the scene.
We cast our minds back to the two brave women in their 60’s we met in Porto a few days earlier who were making their way here following the Camino Portegese. This is what they have to look forward to.
The weather conditions make the Cathedral look foreboding but a visit inside proves otherwise. We follow visitors and pilgrims alike to the underground tomb of St James, then to the high altar where the figure of St James sits welcoming pilgrims to touch his cape as a blessing. We quietly explore the naves and altars of this magnificent building while a Mass is underway for pilgrims. Many have completed the full Camino, walking nearly 800km from France following trails marked with the tell-tale scallop shells and yellow arrows through the French and Spanish countryside with overnight stays in modest accommodations of lodges and monasteries.
We have stood in front of, and admired many cathedrals during our travels. Standing in front of this Cathedral, as spectators to pilgrims completing their individual Caminos, we feel we have missed out on something special.
There are a number of Camino routes leading to Santiago de Compostela. For those wishing to complete a shorter walk or who are time poor, shorter routes provide an alternative to the full Camino. All lead to the Cathedral of St James. The Camino is now very popular with those who are looking for the more active holiday. The trails are now full of both genuine pilgrims and tourists. We might be a little late for the more genuine experience, where the trails are less crowded but plans are in the making to join the over 200,000 people who now complete the Camino each year. Watch this space or join us!
Footnote: There is more to Santiago de Compostela than being just a pilgrimage site. A UNESCO World Heritage and university town the city has its own rich culture in entertainment and art. Wandering the streets of this medieval city is a history lesson in itself. And, the city is a gateway to the Galacia region which has its own language and culture. A truly unique Spanish experience for the traveller who wishes to see more of Spain.
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