We made our way from the railway station to Rue de France, the starting point for the ‘Camino’ after arriving in St Jean Pied de Port by train from Paris via Bordeaux and Bayonne to commence walking the full Camino de Santiago, the Way of St James (Camino Frances).
Our small hotel, Hotel Restaurante Ramuntcho was on the street corner and our room, like most accommodations in St. Jean, was small but cosy. The hotels and hostels here mainly cater for Camino walkers like us who are in town for just an overnight stay.
During the day, many campers and daytrippers visit St. Jean and the surrounding countryside to enjoy the lush greenery and escape the heat of the cities. The town’s streets and cafes are bustling with activity.
Before long the daytrippers move on to leave the town for the pilgrims to explore, buy any last-minute items, visit the Pilgrim’s Office to collect their pilgrim passport or like us, walk up to the Citadel for its scenic views of the countryside around St Jean Pied de Port or walk over the picturesque old Roman Bridge over the River Nive called Pilgrim’s Bridge.
Day 1 – St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
Filled with excitement and a hint of nervousness, we were prepared to leave by 8 a.m. the next morning when it started raining heavily. Fifteen minutes later, as the dark clouds loomed overhead and concerned about the possibility of more wet weather we donned our rain jackets and set off. Eager pilgrims had left earlier, leaving only a couple of other stragglers like us departing over St. Jean’s Pilgrim’s Bridge.
Orisson
The first eight kilometres to Orisson are challenging, the trek uphill starting almost as soon as we leave St. Jean on terrain that varies between dirt tracks and tarmac roads. Hiking poles helped to take the pressure off our legs and provided stability as we maintained a slow and steady pace. The surrounding farmland and the scenery provided a good distraction, even with cloud cover.
Orisson is a small hamlet in the Pyrenees and consists of a single building, Orisson Refuge. The Refuge offers overnight accommodations for pilgrims who want to break up the long and arduous day of walking over the Pyrenees, making it an excellent way to embark on the trek. A café caters to hikers who choose to complete the crossing in one day. The large deck provides sweeping views of the surrounding countryside.
We planned to stop at Orisson for lunch since there are no facilities between Orisson and Roncesvalles. We arrived there within two hours. Some hikers who had started earlier in the morning had already arrived, and we recognized many faces from the day before. Even though it was still mid-morning we opted for an early lunch and a comfort break before continuing our journey.
We quickly find ourselves enveloped in a thick mist, we ascend higher after leaving Orisson. Our visibility was sometimes reduced to a mere 10-20 meters, making single walkers ahead appear like ghostly figures approaching us instead of moving forward. We could hear cowbells ringing in the distance, but the herds were nowhere in sight.
Onward to Roncesvalles
After a few hours, a pile of stones emerged from the mist with a sign indicating the way to Roncevalles (Roncevaux in French). Other pilgrims arrived and pondered whether this was the right path. The route passed through pastures while a tarmac road was only a few metres away. We consulted our trip notes and they confirmed that we should take the farm track, so we set off. As we continued, we looked back but saw no one else following us. Despite this, we marched on with confidence.
As we walked along, the track became increasingly misty and muddy. We came across a flock of sheep lazily sitting on the path. We followed a couple of stray sheep for a while, we soon lost sight of them and continued. It seemed like we were the only ones around until we stumbled upon two people taking a break on a stone bench in a damp rest area. Feeling reassured, we trudged through a long stretch of muddy track that led us downhill. Once again, we saw no one until a pair of young pilgrims caught up with us and passed us.
The trail suddenly opened to a dirt and gravel path, and the mist lifted, revealing the way ahead. Although there was still a lot of uphill and downhill walking, we could now see where we were heading.
After reaching the highest point for the day, Col de Leopoeder (1450m), we took a break and observed other hikers starting their challenging descent down a rocky path. The descent was more difficult than the ascent, but we appreciated trekking through a stunning beech forest before arriving at our lodging in Roncesvalles. And the sun was finally out.
Roncesvalles
Roncesvalles is a tiny hamlet with a few buildings comprising a monastery including a church, Iglesia de la Colegiata de Santa Maria, an Albergue (hostel) and a monastery museum. Our overnight stay is in Casa de los Beneficiados, a modern apartment hotel located in the old pilgrim’s hospital within the complex.
After freshening up we took a stroll around the complex but it was not long before we were driven inside with more rain. There was no choice but to go and journal over a glass of wine in the bar where we met a couple we had seen hiking the trail earlier in the day and then again on the final stretch to Roncesvalles. We had such a good time exchanging our day’s experience that we continued over dinner.
The first day of the Camino Frances is deemed to be the toughest because of the steep ascent and equally steep descent into the Spanish town of Roncesvalles. The views and scenery on a good day are meant to be spectacular. Being shrouded in mist nearly all the way meant we missed what was supposed to be a picturesque crossing over the Pyrenees from France into Spain. We were grateful however not to have to complete it in the rain.
Walking statistics
- 24.6km
- 7 hours including stops
Day 2 – Roncesvalles to Akaretta
After enjoying a satisfying breakfast, we were ready for another day of walking. The sun was shining and the trail was visible. We crossed the street and saw a road sign for drivers that read “Santiago de Compostela – 790km.” Our journey began on level ground, with the trail running parallel to the road.
Before long we entered a beautiful forest filled with beech and oak trees, we learned that it was known as The Witches Forest. White witches used to gather there before they were persecuted in the 16th century. We found the La Cruz Blanca outside the forest – a cross for travellers’ divine protection.
Walking along trails through meadows, surrounded by green hills and wooded areas, we pass through several small towns in quick succession:
- Burguete – a township of whitewashed houses known as Hemingway’s village because the writer loved to visit the town for trout fishing
- Espinal – a resident greets walkers and directs them to his café tucked away off the main street.
- Biskarreta or Guerendiain, in Basque – A charming town where we stroll, reading engraved plaques that reveal the date and history of each house.
Zubiri
After trekking for 22 kilometres, many hikers opt to spend the night in Zubiri, also known as the “town of the bridge.” As we crossed the Puente de la Rabia bridge, we saw groups of hikers enjoying the riverbank or taking a refreshing dip in the water. Zubiri has been around since 1040 and relies on the pilgrims passing through and the magnesite factory which we pass on our way out of town.
The town is modern and ideal for a rest, lunch of Spanish tortillas and coffee before continuing 6km to Akerreta for our overnight stop.
We cross back over the bridge to get back on the track and after a walk uphill, we’re back on level ground for a time walking through woods alongside the river and pretty meadows lined with wildflowers and spotted with hay bales. There’s one more small town to pass through, Larrasoana, an old monastery town where only the 13th-century church remains. We stopped to stamp our pilgrims’ passports to find the church closed but the stamp and stamp pad set up on a ledge at the entrance.
Akerreta
One final steep walk uphill on a tarmac road finds us in the tiny settlement of Akerreta (pop 10), and our accommodation, Hotel Akerreta, is right in the centre.
There is not much else to amuse us in the town but the hotel, an 18th-century Basque farmhouse rates a special mention. A family-run hotel is well set up with cosy seating areas and rooms overlooking the countryside. There’s a charming lounge area downstairs with a fireplace where guests can enjoy the picturesque views and relax.
It’s been a long day and once we’re settled in, that’s precisely what we do over pre-dinner cocktails while journalling. Our pre-departure research on the hotel revealed that in 2009, the hotel had been the setting for filming of the movie, The Way starring Martin Sheen. The owner’s daughter, who is on duty regales stories about the making of the movie in the hotel and the star and crew staying in the hotel.
We seem to be the only guests at the hotel until dinnertime when another couple appear to join us in the rustic restaurant. They are not pilgrims but a Dutch couple who are exploring the countryside around Akeretta.
A delicious three-course dinner featuring vegetables and fruit picked from the hotel’s organic garden and products from local producers is a highlight.
With a comfortable bed to sleep in, it was a very satisfying end to a long day.
The highlight of the day
We’ve been seeing a cyclist struggling up the rocky, steep Camino tracks to Akarreta. We encounter him again as we walk up the final hill of the day. He’s loaded with panniers but remains positive and friendly. He leaves us with the wise words, “When you’re in nature, everything is fine.”.
Walking statistics
- 29km
- 8 hours including stops
Everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago
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