Our first day in Germany, and the pick for our first stop on our drive to Koblenz, where we were staying, was Mainz, a short 35-minute drive from Frankfurt Airport. We weren’t disappointed. Discover Mainz, the beautiful wine capital of Germany, with us.
Sitting on the left bank of the Rhine River, Mainz is the official wine capital of Germany and is surrounded by the largest wine-growing area in the country.
The city has more to offer than just wine, though. It has an old city filled with historic buildings and monuments—one of the reasons why we picked the city as our first stop.
Our top things to do in Mainz
Spend time in the Marktplatz
As with any medieval city, the Marktplatz is the hub. Mainz was no exception. It was still early in the day; however, locals had started to emerge, gathering at the cafes in the square for coffee.
The colourful buildings in the Marktplatz
A blend of coloured and decorated gabled houses stands opposite the most distinctive building in the square, the Mainz Cathedral.
Marktbrunnen Fountain
We took a closer look at the Marktbrunnen, an ornate three-columned fountain built, like the cathedral, of red sandstone, before we visited inside the cathedral. The fountain sits to one side, in a corner of the square and was built in the 16th century.
Marktbrunnen, the ornate three-columned fountain
The fountain was commissioned by the elector Albert of Mainz and crafted by the Mainz sculptor Hans Backoffen. The Marktbrunnen is one of the first Renaissance fountains in Germany.
The Prince-Elector had the fountain built to commemorate his successful survival of the “Peasants’ War” of 1525 and to seal the deal with the adoption of the 31 articles of grievance that the peasants demanded from their ruler.
Mainz Cathedral
St Martin, the Romanesque cathedral, is over a 1000 years old. The red sandstone building with its six distinguishing towers, including an octagonal tower, dominates the Altstadt.
Mainz Cathedral
Built in 975 AD, the interior of the cathedral is as impressive as the exterior. The interior has a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture and ornate tombs of prince-electors and archbishops. The small, well-manicured cloister is also accessible to the public.
The pretty cloister
The cathedral also has a museum section with religious artefacts and items from the treasury.
The Gutenberg Museum
The Gutenberg Museum honours the inventor of the printing press, Johannes Gutenberg
Instead of visiting the museum, we opted to explore more of Mainz’s outdoor attractions; however, when researching things to do in Mainz, the museum was highlighted as a great place for book lovers and history enthusiasts. It has two of the 49 remaining Gutenberg Bibles, as well as a working reproduction of Gutenberg’s press.
In 1946, the city’s university, which was founded in 1477, was renamed Johannes Gutenberg University to honour the publisher.
Walk a little further to Schillerplatz
Next, we walked to another significant square, Schillerplatz. Lined with notable palaces, the square is named after the poet Friedrich Schiller, whose statue stands in the centre.
Another notable feature in the square is the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain standing in the centre of the square. The fountain is decorated with 200 quirky bronze statues celebrating the Mainz Carnival, which starts in the square on 11 November every year.
Schillerplatz is surrounded by beautiful, noble houses with the Fastnachtsbrunnen fountain in its centre
With its colourful garden beds and benches under shady trees, the square is the perfect spot to relax and take a breather when exploring the city in the summer.
Old Town (Altstadt)
Mainz’s Old Town is a great place to explore. It’s full of narrow streets lined with half-timbered houses and some lovely squares.
St Stephan’s Church
St. Stephen’s Church is located above the old town. We walked up to this Gothic church, renowned for its stunning blue stained glass windows. The nine windows, created between 1978 and 1985, depict scenes from the Old Testament and fill the space with a blue glow.
Disappointingly, the church was closed to visitors when we arrived, and we were unable to visit inside. Instead, we enjoyed some of the views over Mainz from the church’s terrace.
Mainz Rhine Promenade
After exploring the sights around the old town, we strolled to the promenade alongside the Rhine River. It’s a beautiful spot to take in the scenery and watch the river and cargo boats go by.
Our conclusion
Mainz is unquestionably a town we would have liked to have had the time to explore further. It’s a city full of history, culture, monuments and landmarks, coupled with picturesque scenery.
We stayed for several nights in Koblenz to explore the historic city, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Read about this fascinating city through the link below.
With a long history, scenic landscape, and surrounded by mountain ranges and vineyards, the city was the first stop on our driving tour of Germany. Introducing fascinating Koblenz, the one German city you must visit.
Koblenz sits conveniently at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle Rivers. This makes it the perfect city from which to explore the greater Rhine and Moselle valleys.
Koblenz
Koblenz, founded by the Romans and with a history spanning over 2,000 years of various rulers, has evolved into a treasure trove for its visitors.
Our top things to do in Koblenz
Jesuitenplatz
In the heart of Koblenz’s Altstadt is a square named for the Jesuit order. The order was part of the city’s community for almost 200 years, until they were expelled from the city in 1773. The Baroque building and portal on one side of the square, formerly the Jesuit College, is the Town Hall.
Jesuitenplatz
Take some time to look out for the small Jesuit Church built in the 1610s, which stands quietly in the corner of the square. It’s easy to miss!
Visit the History Column in Görresplatz Square
Another lovely square in Koblenz’s old town is Görresplatz. Surrounded by beautiful buildings, the square’s main highlight is the History Column.
The History Column in Görresplatz Square
The fountain was built in 1992, marking the 2000th anniversary of the city. A column recounts the city’s detailed history. The scenes depicted on it span from Roman times to the Middle Ages, the Electorate (see the section on the Electorate Palace below), the French occupation, and up to the present day.
Deutsche Eck Monument
The Deutsches Eck Monument on the riverfront in Koblenz
The Deutsche Eck Monument celebrates two important features of Koblenz: the spot where the Moselle and Rhine Rivers meet, and the large statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I. It pays tribute to the German emperor, who was the first head of state of a united Germany.
Basilica of St Castor
The Basilica’s twin towers peek out from between the trees a short distance from the Deutsches Eck. It’s the oldest church in Koblenz.
Basilica of St Castor
Most of the architecture dates back to the 12th century. Like other parts of the city, some sections of the Basilica were damaged during World War II, but they were reconstructed to their original condition.
Wander around the pleasant gardens in the complex behind the Church building.
The gardens of the Basilica of St Castor
Florinsmarkt Square
Another Altstadt square to pass through is Florinsmarkt Square. Formerly the political and economic centre of the city, it houses four historic buildings. Unfortunately, three were in a state of disrepair, boarded up and in need of major renovation when we visited. The only building of significance which has survived the times is the old shopping and dancing hall. It stands proudly at the back of the square.
The shopping and dancing hall building in Florinsmarkt
Under the tower clock, there’s a small inlay of a knight. The knight’s eyes move back and forth in time with the clock’s pendulum and sticks out its tongue every full and half hour. Legend says he is reminiscent of the robber baron Johann Lutter von Kobern, who was executed on the Florinsmarkt in 1536. Apparently, he twisted his eyes on the scaffold and stuck his tongue out at the spectators.
Walk along the riverfront promenade
A walk along Konrad Adenauer-Ufer Kastorhof, gazing up at the fortress on the hill across the river, is the perfect way to savour some downtime in Koblenz.
At the far end, away from Deutsches Eck, you’ll see the imposing Prussian Government Building. It cuts a striking imperial presence on the waterfront. Inside are monumental staircases with vaulted halls and outstanding stonework.
The former Prussian Government Building
Today, the building houses the Presidium of the Federal Office of Bundeswehr Equipment, Information Technology and In-Service Support (BAAINBw). The southern part has housed the Koblenz Higher Regional Court since 1993.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress
High above on the right bank of the Rhine, looking across over the city, is Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. There has been a fortress here since the 11th century.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress on the hill overlooking Koblenz
After hundreds of years of changing rulers and destruction, the current fortress was reconstructed by the Prussians and is now the second largest in Europe.
The best way to access the fortress is by taking the scenic cable car ride from the Konrad Adenauer-Ufer Kastorhof promenade. A bonus is the spectacular scenery over Koblenz on the way to and from the fortress.
Views from Ehrenbreitstein Fortress
The fortress buildings are now the site of the Koblenz State Museum. Even if you’re not interested in museums, it’s worth crossing the river for the panoramic view of the city. There’s also a wooden viewing platform which gives expansive views of the city and the rivers.
Electoral Palace
We found the groundkeepers hard at work tending the gardens of the grand building, which is not far from the riverfront promenade.
Prince Clemens Wenceslaus built the Electoral Palace (you’ll find his statue on the street leading to the Palace) over nearly 20 years from 1777 to 1793. The Palace was taken over by the Prussians in 1815 after the Prince was forced to leave Koblenz after the French Revolution. For the next 100 years, it was a residence for Prussian royals for 100 years.
The Electoral Palace
The building was damaged by a bombing during WWII and rebuilt to its original structure, but it became evident as we moved closer that the building was abandoned. Paint was peeling from the facade, and it no longer looked as majestic as close-up.
One of the groundsmen approached us as we peered through the windows to ascertain the state of the interior. He indicated that we could walk through an entrance from which we could access the gardens on the other side.
The riverfront gardens of the Electoral Palace
While the building was indeed in a state of disrepair, we are thankful for the encounter with a groundsman who found us peering through the windows into the building. He indicated that we could walk through an entrance into a hallway, from which we could access the beautifully terraced gardens in front of the river
Visit a biergarten
On a hot summer day, after visiting the sights around the city, there is nothing better than enjoying the river breezes while sampling local beer at the biergarten on the Koblenz riverfront. It’s the perfect place from which to watch the riverboats cruise by, people-watch, and have a banter with the locals.
Where we stayed
We booked a charming apartment in the heart of the Altstadt, which was within walking distance of all sights and attractions and close to the river.
The apartment was spacious for the two of us, tastefully decorated, and featured a balcony. Our host met us on-site to provide access and assistance to the garage. The “icing on the cake” was the bottle of local wine that our host had generously left for us to enjoy. A lovely welcome gift for our first night in Germany!
Things to do around Koblenz
Drive the Rhine Castle route. Read more about the highlights of our drive along one of Germany’s most scenic roads through the link below:
Fresh off a morning arrival on our flight into Frankfurt, we hopped into our car and headed north. We were driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed route is divided into two parts.
The Rhine Castle route
We would drive the first half to Koblenz and stay there for a couple of days before completing the second half to Bonn. Koblenz, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers in the Upper Rhine Valley, is one of Germany’s oldest cities. The Mitterhein wine region also runs between Bingen and Bonn.
Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route
The drive from Bingen to Koblenz
Dotted with over 40 castles, the route is also part of the Rhine Valley wine region. The city of Mainz, approximately a 90-minute drive from Frankfurt, serves as the gateway to the wine region, while the Castle route begins from the town of Bingen. Bingen is a sleepy town with a lovely main street with cafes and restaurants. We stopped to have lunch there before continuing.
From Bingen onwards is a real treat for anyone wanting to drive this route. The road winds its way alongside the river while riverboats slip gently past. Along the way, there are castles and fortresses on high peaks or set lower amongst the vineyards on both sides of the river. While it isn’t practical to visit all the castles, nor are many open to the public, it was fun driving along, spotting them all. The drive between Bingen and Koblenz should only take an hour; however, to enjoy the scenery, making short stops at designated viewing points and allowing yourself a detour to a castle or two on the way, you should allow at least two to three hours.
The fairytale Philippsburg Castle in Marksburg on the Rhine Castle route
With so many castles and options, we strategically chose a few spots to look out for on the route.
Burg Reichenstein
Sankt Goar (Rheinfels Castle), from where you can look across to the Lorelei
At Boppard, we stopped to look across the river to Sterrenberg Castle
After Boppard spotted Marksburg Castle
Looked out for Stozenfels Castle just before arriving in Koblenz
A visit to Schonberg Castle
A castle that wasn’t on our list, but we couldn’t resist visiting after seeing it perched on the hillside from afar, was Schonberg Castle. A short distance off the main road in the town of Oberwesel, we wound our way up the hill to the castle’s car park.
Outside Schonburg Castle walls
The castle, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, was built in the 12th century; however, there are records of a dwelling on the site in 900 AD. From the car park, it’s a couple of minutes walk to the small arched entrance into the cobbled carriage path and inside the castle walls, from where a narrower walkway continues into the castle courtyard.
Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance
The Dukes of Schonburg and their families lived in the castle from the 12th century until 1689, when much of it was destroyed by troops during the Nine Years’ War. Partially reconstructed in the late 19th century, it wasn’t until the town purchased it in 1950 that it was completely revived.
The castle is now a 4-star hotel, Burghotel Auf Schonburg, with a museum in the castle tower, which is open to the public. The castle’s gardens are, however, available for only hotel guests to roam. For others, there is a vantage point overlooking the Rhine River, giving you splendid views. The picturesque scenery from above was worth making the small detour and was one of the highlights of our drive.
View from Schonburg Castle lookout
There is also a small lookout before entering or after exiting the castle walls, from where there are excellent views of the grapevines of the hills of the valley behind the castle.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress in Koblenz
In Koblenz, we had anticipated taking a morning walk up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress high on the hillside over the city from the other side of the Rhine River. Unfortunately, there was no easy way to cross the river on foot.
Instead, we waited until after we returned from our day excursion to the beautiful town of Cochem, to go across by cable car to look around the fortress. The cable car ride provides fabulous views over Koblenz’s old town.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is a complex of buildings sprawling over a large area of the eastern bank. The fortress buildings are now home to the State Museum, displaying antiques and war memorabilia.
If you’re not a museum-lover, you can take a wander around the extensive fort area, savouring the views, especially from the viewing platform, which is a piece of art itself. The triangular-shaped wooden platform was originally built for a Horticultural exhibition, then repurposed and placed on the fortress’s grounds. From the platform, you get spectacular views of Koblenz, the Rhine and Moselle Rivers.
The Rhine Castle route from Koblenz to Bonn
The Rhine Castle route is determined to run from Bingen to Bonn. However, we were disappointed not to find any noteworthy castles or fortresses on the drive along the Rhine River between Koblenz and Bonn. Maybe they are well hidden from the roadside.
Our opinion
The first section of our drive, between Bingen and Koblenz, mesmerised us with the centuries-old, magnificent castles and fortresses as well as the terraced vineyards on the rolling hills on both banks of the Rhine River. The entire journey is picture-postcard worthy, and we would consider driving again at a much slower pace, making more stops and detours to visit select castles.
Note: Some castles and fortresses charge an entrance fee to visit inside.
In case you’re interested
We stayed in Koblenz, one of the most beautiful and historic cities on the Rhine and Moselle rivers. Read about what this wonderful city has to offer through the link below.
The streets were quiet when we returned through the township. We passed over the Puenta de la Reina to walk to Estella where we would end Day 5 of walking the full Camino de Santiago. From Estella, we’ll carry on to Los Arcos on Day 6. Both Estella and Los Arco sound like they’ll be interesting.
Leaving the town of Puenta de la Reina by passing through the portal and over the Roman bridge
Puenta de la Reina to Estella
Our walking notes promised a walk over rolling hills alongside vineyards and amongst olive and almond groves through the ancient towns of Bargota and Ciraqui.
We hit the road at 7:30am after having a satisfying breakfast at Hotel Jacques, which provides hotel and hostel accommodation. We stayed in a comfortable room in the hotel section.
Within an hour we had passed through the town of Maneru and came across a French family of three (mother, father and daughter) whom we had seen on the route over the past several days. After exchanging pleasantries we left them behind and found ourselves walking behind three young adults talking and laughing as they walked.
We all came to a standstill at a Camino arrow pointing in two directions. One of the arrows directed us up a narrow and rough track. Comparing notes and apps we agreed that both routes would take us to the same place. We would be safer to take the wider trail.
With the ice broken, we chatted with Ines, Fernando and Santiago as we walked. The boys were twins and Ines was their older sister. They were walking part of the Camino trail as a five-day family holiday. All three had completed the last section of the Camino Frances as part of a school activity when they were younger. They were trying to catch up with their parents who had started walking earlier than their children that morning. They strode on ahead of us continuing their banter.
Ciraqui
The hilltop town of Ciraqui was within view as we walked along a track surrounded by rolling hills, wheat fields, olive groves and vineyards. The sky above was clear and blue.
Views of the hilltop town of Ciraqui and beyond as we walked alongside vineyards on the Camino de Santiago
There was a bit of a climb to the centre of Ciraqui at the top of the hill where the church and monastery are located. The church was closed. A stamp and stamp pad sat on the small table by the restroom for us to stamp our pilgrim passports. The streets were empty except for pilgrims making their way to the top to descend through the other side of the town.
The climb to the crest of Ciraqui township
On the other side of the township was one of the highlights for pilgrims who pass through Ciraqui. Halfway down the tarmac road, the remains of a well-preserved 2000-year-old Roman road appeared exposed. The road led down to another rarity, an old Roman bridge. Our young friends had caught up with their parents and were resting in the shade by the beautiful Roman stone road with other pilgrims.
The old Roman stone road at Ciraqui
We slowed down to manoeuvre our way down the road but decided to carry on over the bridge to the township of Lorca for our rest stop.
The old Roman Bridge outside Ciraqui
Lorca
The walk to Lorca was more demanding. With the beautiful scenery behind us, the track was craggy with many ups and downs. Again, we were grateful to have chosen to use hiking poles. They provided much-needed assistance on the steep and rocky inclines as much as the steadiness they gave us as we navigated downhill.
Finally, at the top of a steep and rocky ravine, the road into Lorca appeared and we sat down for a well-earned rest opposite the church at the entrance to the town. Looking around us we saw a few familiar faces including the loud Asian American lady who had sat at the table across from us during dinner in Saint Jean Pied de Port boasting to her companion that she had completed the walk three times before. Many familiar faces appeared, reappeared, and sometimes disappeared during our time on the Camino.
We had taken off our shoes when Danish Jens and Kirsten arrived. Thoughts on the journey so far were discussed before they continued up the road to find a cafe for coffee.
Villatuerta
Rested, we continued through vineyards and along paths lined with bright sunflower fields. There was one more township to walk through, Villatuerta before we reached our overnight stay in Estella.
Over a Roman bridge and at the top of a steep road, we arrived at the old 14th-century church, Iglesia de la Asuncion standing in a courtyard. We took the opportunity to have a look inside, stamp our passports and have a drink from our water bottles before continuing.
Iglesia de la Asuncion in Villatuerta
Just outside of Villatuerta, there was the small hermitage our guidebook had pointed out. Originally part of a larger monastery complex it has since disappeared leaving the beautiful sight of the lonely chapel sitting amongst the olive groves. We decided not to detour to have a look and instead continued. There was one more rise to climb and before long we were walking along a neverending bike path which eventually led us into Estella.
The pretty scene of the hermitage sitting amongst the olive groves
Estella
It was delightful to cross over the Rio Ega towards our accommodation and find it bustling with locals and pilgrims. Estella is divided in two with settlements on both sides of the river.
We decided to have lunch in front one of Estella’s famous landmarks, Puenta de la Carcel (previously known as Puenta de San Martin). The bridge has a steep single arch and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the river and the township on both sides. The Iglesia de Santa Maria Jus de Castillo and the Santo Domingo convent, located on the hill above the town, can also be seen from the bridge.
Puenta de la Carcel, the steep single-arched bridge between the two parts of Estella township
Exploring Estella
Once we had settled into our accommodation, we stepped outside to explore the town only to find empty streets. Spaniards enjoyed a siesta to escape the heat leaving only a few of us outdoors.
As we walked up Calle Mayor, we couldn’t help but peek inside the shop windows. Our destination was the triangular plaza, Plaza Santiago. It was only during our return walk that we realized the true significance of this main street. Upon closer inspection of the building facades and plaques on some residences, we discovered they had served as amazing palaces and houses of fine gentry in past times.
A grand palazzo on Calle Mayor in Estella
A detour halfway down Calle Mayor took us to the town’s main square, Plaza de los Fueros which was surrounded by arcaded buildings with plenty of dining establishments and another church, the Iglesia San Juan Bautista.
With the heat still bearing down, it was the perfect time to return to our lunch spot to relax over a beer and write our reflections on our day before retreating to our hotel for dinner.
An after-dinner walk found us back in the main plaza for a little people-watching. Elderly residents sat chatting on benches around the circumference of the square, while parents watched their youngsters play football on the pavement or play tag.
Our accommodation
Our hotel, Hotel Hospederia Chapitel is a lovely boutique hotel a short distance from the bridge and located right in front of the Citadel. We were delighted to find we had views of the Citadel from our spacious and comfortable room.
The hotel had a small bar with comfy armchairs by the window from where we could watch the town come alive again over a glass of wine before another delicious three-course meal in the hotel restaurant.
Walking statistics
23km
5 hours 50 minutes
Estella to Los Arcos
We were ready by 7am and our Danish hikers arrived for breakfast not long after. As others drifted in we noticed that while it wasn’t apparent in the evening before, the hotel was at capacity. Accommodation is at a premium in Pamplona during the San Fermin so many revellers stay in Estella instead. Pamplona is only a few kilometres away by car.
Views of the Iglesia de Santa Maria Jus de Castillo and the Santo Domingo convent from the Puenta de la Carcel as we left Estella
After a leisurely breakfast, we left the town by crossing the Puenta de la Carcel. We walked along the elegant main street of the old town and through the portal into suburbia. We carefully followed the Camino signage out of town and arrived at our first stop three kilometres outside of Estella.
Monasterio de Irache and the Bodegas Irache Wine Fountain
Our guidebook and daily notes made special mention of this Camino attraction. The path led us past the Bodegas Irache and to the right behind a small gate was the legendary fountain offering wine and water to modern-day pilgrims. The monks at the monastery used to make the wine, which also served as a pilgrim hospital in the early days.
The purpose of the Irache Wine Fountain
The fountain symbolises the first miracle Jesus performed, turning wine into water and was inaugurated in 1991 to commemorate 100 years of winemaking by the vineyard. The 12th-century vines surrounding the path we had just walked along supply the grapes for the wine fountain and it is tradition to fill your Camino scallop shell and drink from it. However, because it is usually still early morning when pilgrims pass by, they will often fill their water bottles to enjoy the wine later in the day.
The Bodegas Irache Wine Fountain is where pilgrims can take a sip of wine or fill up their bottles for later.
We arrived to find quite a few pilgrims at the fountain and took our place in the queue alongside a group of four loud Americans who took advantage of the free-flowing wine and filled all their drink bottles.
At 8:30 am, it was too early for us to fill more than our small water bottle caps and take a sip for the sake of custom before carrying on past the monastery a few metres further along the path. Visiting the monastery and church is possible if you arrive after 9 am.
Luquin
After passing the monastery, the path led us through a pine forest emerging to amazing views of the jagged-edged mountains in the distance before spotting the pyramid-shaped hill with a castle on top.
There is the option to detour into the small village of Villamayor de Montjardin to stay overnight if pilgrims want to make the steep climb to the top of the hill to explore the castle.
Castillo de Monjardin is sitting high on the hill and the township of Villamayor de Monjardin is visible from the Camino de Santiago path.
We continued our journey towards Los Arcos. Our walking notes told us there were few other places to stop after the monastery. We did, however, come across an unusual sight – a community swimming pool with a cafe attached in the small village of Luquin. The streets were empty. We stopped at the pool to have our morning tea of fruit as other walkers came and went around us before we continued.
The long road to Los Arcos
The path led us through dry fields and pastures for about 12km. The last section was on an exposed and long flat pathway where we trudged, exposed to the hot sun, with other pilgrims before reaching the sign announcing the town entrance.
The long flat path to Los Arcos.
Los Arcos is a small and pretty little town. Again, we found the street leading to the small main square of the old town was empty. Unsure if we would find anything substantial for lunch further on, we stopped at one of the only stores open. The small bakery sold freshly baked vegan goods. We opted for the vegan empanada and a pretty standard coffee accompanied by an apple danish which we devoured while sitting on a bench opposite the store.
Satiated and ready to find our accommodation which was a few metres further we found ourselves in a busy little square in front of the Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos where other pilgrims were having lunch outside a bar. The church was closed so we passed through the old town portal to our accommodation a few metres outside the old town walls.
The pretty little square outside the church in Los Arcos where residents and Camino pilgrims congregated.
Our accommodation
Reception at Hotel Monaco was closed and a phone call had to be to the hotel’s contact number. The owner apologised profusely for not being on-site to welcome us (there had been a death in the family) and directed us to where we could find our room keys. He also advised that instead of having dinner and breakfast in the hotel, he had arranged for us to have dinner at the bar and restaurant on the ground floor and breakfast at the small cafe across the road.
Our room was spacious but on an incredibly hot July day, we would have appreciated air conditioning or at least a fan in the room! It was cooler in the corridor than in our room. The hotel did have laundry facilities, however, for which we were grateful once we had worked out how to use the washing machine.
Our arrival routine completed we strolled back into the old town area before pre-dinner drinks and journalling in a little courtyard at the restaurant bar.
Highlights of the day
Two highlights punctuated a rather long and unremarkable day:
While having lunch and watching other walkers arrive, our friend, the cyclist from Akaretta arrived and sat on a bench next to us sharing a little of his journey. He had cycled the Camino de Santiago three or four times. This time he was taking it easy and only cycling 20-30km per day while staying in the smaller towns and stopping to explore more towns along the way.
When we wandered back into the old town in the late afternoon, our fellow walkers, the Danish couple were enjoying refreshments outside the church. They were staying at a hostel in the old town (which probably had air conditioning!). An invitation to join them and the ensuing conversation resulted in our meeting frequently along the walk and afterwards until they left us at Logrono.
Walking statistics
21km
5 hours 15 minutes
One more thing
We had found that while not intended, we had settled into an arrival routine which we continued throughout the journey:
Have some lunch.
Check-in at our accommodation.
Unroll our yoga mats for a 30-40 minute stretch yoga session (this has so far ensured that we are ready for another long walk the next day).
Unpack (the trick here is to unpack only what we need ).
Shower.
Do laundry if the facilities allow it.
Go out to explore the town/village.
In case you missed it – Walking the full Camino de Santiago
If you’d like to follow our journey from the start, read:
We were underway walking the full Camino de Santiago. With two long walking days behind us and a blissful night’s sleep in our comfortable overnight accommodation in Akarreta, Days 3 and 4 would be breezy short walks.
Day 3 – Akarreta to Pamplona
Knowing that the walking day would be short, we started the day at a leisurely pace. Breakfast was served at 8:00am so there was no rush. However, we were keen to be on our way to Pamplona because it was the first day of the annual San Fermin Festival (Running of the Bulls).
Leaving Akarreta
Fuelled by a hearty continental breakfast, we left Akarreta down a narrow track before continuing along a path full of rises and falls that snaked alongside a river.
After several kilometres, we emerged into the open air, surrounded by wheat fields. There were several small townships to pass through before we encountered a couple of short but steep descents and ascents before finding ourselves walking on a paved track that ran above the highway.
Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre and Basilica de la Sanctissima
The path descended into a small park next to the medieval bridge spanning the Argo River which has, for centuries, been the official entrance into Pamplona for pilgrims. We took a short rest in the park before crossing the Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre into Trinidad de Arre, the first suburb on the outskirts of Pamplona.
Puenta de la Trinidad de Arre
Just over the bridge on the right is Basilica de la Sanctissima Trinidad. It’s the site of a monastery and an old pilgrim hospital where weary travellers on the Camino used to stop to rest overnight. The small chapel was open and we could self-stamp our pilgrim’s passports before continuing through the outer suburbs towards the city.
Pamplona
Almost immediately we were immersed into the festivities of San Fermin. It was the first day of the festival and no bull running would occur. However, it was a public holiday and people were out celebrating.
Groups of revellers dressed in white with red neck scarves joined us and before long we merged with more crowds to cross the Puente de la Magdalena before entering the old town through the Portal de Francia.
Entering Pamplona through the Portal de Franca
As we approached Plaza Consistorial, we found the streets packed with people. Some were just milling around while others had gathered around trestle tables to eat lunch. Plaza Consistorial is home to Pamplona’s City Hall, which boasts an impressive Baroque facade.
It was almost midday, and the opening day celebrations would soon commence. The Plaza was filled with people, and the crowd had spilt into the narrow streets surrounding the square. The mood was jovial: rubber balls bounced above heads as people drank Sangria and sang at the top of their voices.
Pamplona’s San Fermin Festival is in full swing.
Fortunately, we’ve visited Pamplona before and had the opportunity to walk the bull-running route incorporating Plaza Consistorial. It’s a compact and pretty square which is better appreciated without the San Fermin crowds.
San Fermin festivities
As the clock approached midday, the excitement in the air was palpable. The San Fermin chant and the launch of mini rockets, known as “Txupinazo,” signalled the start of a week-long celebration. Excited residents and their guests gathered on the balconies of houses overlooking the crowded streets and squares. Sangria flowed freely and bucketfuls of it were poured from the balconies onto the crowds below, making navigating through the crowds challenging. Without getting drenched, we arrived in Plaza Castillo, the heart of Pamplona, to see what was happening. It was packed full of people too!
Pamplona’s Plaza del Castillo was full of revellers with barely any space to move.
With little room to move and people drinking and cheering as rockets were launched above, we managed to make our way through to the other side of the square to find a quieter square with fewer people to sit down. It became clear that we wouldn’t be able to find anywhere to have lunch in the city area, so we snacked on our provisions whilst enjoying one of our favourite travel pastimes – people-watching.
Our accommodation
Because of the Festival, our travel arrangers, UTracks had not been able to find accommodation for us in the centre of Pamplona and had instead offered to taxi us back to Akarreta and return the next morning to continue on our way. We did some independent searching and found an Ibis Styles hotel about 5km from the city where we could spend the night.
Walking a few extra kilometres
We had intended to catch a taxi to the hotel but again, it was apparent that this would be difficult so after an hour we put our backpacks on and started the walk.
The hotel was comfortable and roomy enough to unroll our yoga mats to stretch. Refreshed we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks in the covered outside area surrounded by locals and before long joined them in the restaurant for a simple and delicious seafood meal before retiring to bed to the sound of thunder and lightning and finally heavy rain.
Some discoveries on the Camino de Santiago
There were two things we discovered that afternoon:
trees along the pathways laden with ripe fruit ready for picking; and
refreshing lemon beer.
We would enjoy both on the remainder of our Camino.
The highlight of the day
Stumbling through an interview with a TV reporter while sitting on a park bench. Asked about what we thought of the festival, we used our rusty Spanish and plenty of gesturing to indicate our excitement of being in Pamplona during the San Fermin festivities.
One more thing
While some of us may not support bullfighting, there is much to be said about the atmosphere and euphoria of being in Pamplona during the fiesta and witnessing the festivities on the day before the actual bull running commences. It was an experience to remember.
Walking statistics
15km plus a further 5.7km to our hotel
5 hours including our stop in Pamplona
Day 4 – Pamplona to Puenta de la Reina
Eager to be on the move we watched the build-up to the first bull run on the TV as we ate breakfast in the cafe where we had dinner the evening before. Hotel reception called a taxi to take us for a 9-minute drive to the small township of Cizur Menor, the starting point for our day’s walk.
The taxi driver was chatty on the short drive and left with a little extra in his pocket. The total cost was 18 euros. We knew he had overcharged us!
Cizur Menor
We exited the taxi and met a Camino walker and chatted while walking through the quiet streets of Cizur Menor. Our fellow pilgrim had started her walk in Normandy. Leaving her to continue at her leisurely pace, we soon came across another pilgrim picking plums from a tree on the side of the path. He offered us some telling us that they would give us the energy and nutrients to carry us through the day. They were delicious and oozing with sweetness.
Wheat fields leading to the small hamlet of Zariquiegui
Soon we were walking amongst vast fields of wheat and sunflowers with their heads turned in unison towards the sun. The scenery was stunning as we climbed towards the small township of Zariquiegui (pop 162). Our guidebook told us that it was the ideal spot to stop for a rest before the steep climb to Alto du Perdon.
The Camino path to Alto del Perdon after leaving the small hamlet of Zariquiegui
Leaving the Zariquigui, the trail became steeper, gravely and muddier because of the overnight rainfall. On our slow and steady climb, we came upon an old local out walking with his dog (this is the middle of nowhere), another set of pilgrims who looked like a mother and daughter to whom we wished “Buen Camino” as we manoeuvred past them and a trail bike rider who roared past us just as we reached the summit. Where did he come from?
Alto del Perdon
The sculptures on the ridge at Alto du Perdon (height of forgiveness) were a welcome sight. We’d been told it can get quite gusty on the ridge – but we are lucky, the winds are moderate and views across the slopes and fields below are splendid.
The famous Monument to the Pilgrim sculptures on Alto del Perdon
Previously, the ridge was home to a Basilica and a hospital for pilgrims. Nowadays, these structures have been replaced by the famous metal sculptures of past and present pilgrims. Some of the sculptures depict pilgrims walking, while others show them riding horses or donkeys.
The climb down was slower and more difficult. We navigated down a slippery and steeper trail of stone, gravel and plenty of uneven crevices and were left astounded when a young couple strode past us without hiking poles, one in trainers and the other in sandals!
Urtega
Once on the flat, a scenic path led past a prominent Camino landmark. A marble sculpture of Mary stands in a shaded spot with benches to rest on. The benches were full of pilgrims resting after coming down the arduous path.
The small town of Urtega wasn’t too far away so we carried on to take our break there.
There was not a soul in sight walking through Urtega. Nor did we see any cafes. Finally, we stumbled across a hostel with a cafe attached selling fruit so seized the opportunity to collect some sustenance
Muruzabai
With no seating, parks or shade in sight, we carried on walking a short distance to the small village, of Muruzabai to find the perfect spot to sit under the shade of trees loaded with ripe cherry plums next to the village church. Voices from the church verandah reveal the trainers and sandals couple chatting to another young pilgrim.
The quiet streets of Urtega were brightened with pots of bright blooms of hydrangeas
Obanos
Sufficiently rested and with our pilgrim’s passports stamped at the church we moved on along a prettier wildflower-lined path to Obanos. Again, we noticed just a few residents outside as we passed through the charming town: an elderly man sitting on a park bench reading his newspaper; a group of very young children struggling with a table, chair and bags full of goods who look like they are going to set up a stall by the church nearby; and a young family walking near the church.
The large central square in Obanos and the imposing Inglesia de San Juan Bautista
Puenta de la Reina
It was becoming warmer, and our destination wasn’t far away. Puenta de la Reina and our hotel sprung upon us after we navigated a trail past a few large vegetable patches.
We walked past our hotel for another 10 minutes into the main town for lunch. The streets were deserted apart from a few pilgrims like us. Shops were closed. There was a bar opposite a small square set up for a local bull run which offered a hearty salad lunch (always served with freshly baked bread) which we enjoyed with our now customary lemon beer.
Calle Mayor is the main street of Puenta de la Reina and holds significance for pilgrims. The Inglesia de San Pedro which is located on the street holds a sculpture of one of Europe’s Black Madonnas.
Back at the hotel, we refreshed ourselves after our yoga session and washed our clothes in the coin-operated washing machine, before sitting in the bar area to reflect on our day over a cold beer while a short rainstorm passed over.
The sun was out after dinner, allowing us to return to the town to explore the alleyways and look at the churches, and the beautiful 11th-century seven-arched Roman bridge, an icon of the Camino, after which the town is named.
The beautiful 11th century bridge, Puenta de la Reina which we crossed over to leave the city on Day 5 to carry on our journey
Walking back through the main street of the town, we saw a few familiar faces from the trail, including a couple we saw at our hotel Roncesvalles.
The highlight of the day
Having a short conversation with Jens and Kirsten outside a tapas bar which marked the beginning of a friendship that accompanied us on our walk to Logrono (where they completed their pilgrimage). The friendship has continued beyond our time on the Camino de Santiago now that we are back in our respective home countries.
Some of our most unforgettable memories were created not only by the places we visited and saw but also by the people we met along the way and the impact they had on our journey. Stay tuned to learn about our chance encounters and observations as our journey progresses.
Walking statistics
18km
5 hours
Everything you need to know about walking the full Camino de Santiago
Contemplating completing all or part of the Camino de Santiago? Learn everything you need to know about walking the Camino de Santiago here.
If you’d like to read how our accounts of Days 1 and 2 of the Camino de Santiago, have a look at this post.
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