Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

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Discover the Loire Valley

Discover the beautiful chateaus and little villages of the Loire Valley

09/08/2022 / / 0 Comments

On this trip, we decided to stay in a smaller town to continue to discover the Loire Valley. We stayed in the larger city of Tours on a previous visit because it is central and provided easy access to both the southwest and south-eastern parts of the valley. Our stay in Chinon exceeded our expectations ensuring we were in the heart of the Valley.

Discover the Loire Valley

We’ve put together some of our highlights below without giving too much away (we want you to discover the history and beauty for yourselves). However, if you’d like more information or clarification on any of the below or our experiences, please feel free to contact us or ask us in the comments section below.

Chinon

We stayed in Chinon for an authentic Loire  Valley experience and found it has all that and more. The city is small enough to be easily walked and large enough to provide plenty of accommodation and dining options when you’ve had a long day visiting the attractions in the surrounding countryside. Remember to save a day to explore Chinon’s cobblestone alleyways and streets too. The town has much to offer.

And, be sure to check with the Tourist Office in the centre of town for any local events that may be happening while you’re in town. We were lucky to be there and attend an outdoor jazz night which was being held on the banks of the river one evening. 

Chateau de Chinon

The Chateau de Chinon (the Fortress) sits high above the town. It looks down on you wherever you are in the town. It’s easily accessible by a lift in the town’s main parking area or, if you prefer the experience of taking the old route, there’s a medieval cobbled pathway and steps in the centre of town. The original castle dates back to the 10th century but it was extended and became a fortress in 1154 when Henry II took residence. For the French, the fortress played an important part in the country’s history, the fortress is where Joan of Arc met with King Charles VII and persuaded him the give her an army to liberate Orleans in the Hundred Years’ War. Today the most prominent part of the fortress is the clock tower and the fortress walls. 

Church of Saint Etienne

Constructed between 1460 and 1490, we loved its Gothic facade. Pop you inside and have a look at the stained glass windows which tell stories of the city’s history.

Stroll on Rue Rabelais and Rue Voltaire

Take a stroll along this pedestrian-only street and look up at the medieval houses that line the street. It’s also where you’ll find the best shopping, restaurants, bars and cafes. There are more medieval homes along Rue Voltairen including the Red House that are worth looking at.

Chapelle de Radegonde

Tucked away on the hillside above Chinon Old Town is Chappelle de Radegonde It’s a pleasant walking trail which you can enter quite close to the Fortress, with panoramic views over Chinon and beyond, small vineyards and cave dwellings along the way. The 12th-century chapel lay in ruin for many years before being gradually restored. Unfortunately for us, the chapel wasn’t open when we passed by in the early morning. However, we found quite a few cave dwellings along the trail which are slowly being restored too.

Church of Sait Marurice and Haute Saint Maurice Place

We were fortunate to stay in an apartment next door to this Church. Low key with a pretty courtyard in front, the Church is renowned for its beautiful organ. One of the parishioners who welcomed visitors at the front door mentioned that the organ was undergoing maintenance. Whichever way, we were treated to melodic organ music every evening during our stay.

M Plouzeau Wine Caves

Set into the rock at the base of the Fortress are the M Plouzeau Caves. The caves were created as a result of the stone quarried to build the fortress. Today, the cool natural climate of the caves houses the wines of Chinon’s well-known wineries. It’s open for tastings and a nice spend a couple of hours on a hot summer day.

Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau

A short drive from Chinon you’ll find the sandstone villages of Candes Saint Martin and Montsoreau. Both towns are situated along the Loire River and blend into each other so it’s hard to avoid visiting one and not the other. 

Candes Saint Martin has a medieval path which you can follow leading to an open space surrounded by vineyards which provide panoramic views over the immediate countryside. 

Montsoreau’s highlight is its chateau, Chateau de la Dame de Montsoreau. Take a moment to enjoy the street filled with sandstone homes and the Town Hall in the adjoining street.

Both towns are listed among the prettiest villages in the area. We found them to be unremarkable. We researched before we visited.  Maybe we missed something.

Fontevraud Abbaye

The village of Fontevrand l’Abbaye, a little further from Montsoreau was bustling with visitors when we arrived. Most were visiting the 10th-century Abbey and monastery. The village has some pretty little side streets and alleys and a lovely courtyard in front of the Abbaye entrance.

Saumur

We stopped in Saumur on our drive to Chinon from Brittany. You can drive there quite easily from Chinon on the main toll road but we recommend you take the scenic route on the country roads along the Loire and Vence Rivers enjoying the scenery as you go.

The main reason for our stop was to see the Chateau de Saumur. Perched high on the hill overlooking the city, it’s hard not to miss. The chateau started out as a fortress in the 900s and was converted to a chateau in the 1400s. You can visit inside. The panoramic views from the grounds of the Chateau are more than worth the visit. 

Chateau D’Azay-Le-Rideau 

A stunning turreted chateau situated in the heart of the town and surrounded by lush greenery on park-like grounds. The castle’s point of difference is climbing the stairway in the middle of the castle with views down to the grand entrance and bridge which you have crossed. Amble through the quarters to see how life was lived in Chateau’s heyday.

Stroll the grounds and around the ponds after you visit inside and make sure you walk through the town afterwards. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants to have a bite to eat and drink. 

Chateau de Langeais

Chateau de Langeais looms grandly over the small township when you arrive in the city of Langeais. It’s very much part of the township.. If you’re arriving in the summer months as we did, you will be greeted with aby a dainty flower-filled street leading to the castle complete with a drawbridge.

You will be able to visit the Castle and its gardens at leisure as it’s not high on the tourist trail. All the more reason to stop by, even if it’s for a peek from the outside.

Chateau d’’Usse

We were driving along a quiet country road along the edge of the forest on one side and the Loire River on the other and suddenly the chateau known locally as the Sleeping Beauty castle appeared. Perched above the roadside complete with a grand entrance over an arched bridge, towers and manicured gardens it’s a regal chateau from all aspects.

Chateau Villandry

One of the jewels of the Loire Valley and our favourite in this part of the Valley. One of the region’s more formal chateaus it emanates an air of opulence. The visit inside provides a glimpse of how the other half lived and a walk through the gardens is delightful, from the carefully manicured hedges to the symmetrical vegetable gardens and terraced areas.

Chateau Villandry

Chateau  d’Amboise

We took the drive from Chinon to  Amboise on the Chateau Trail. It’s the furthest away from Chinon. Amboise is popular on the trail with visitors opting to stay and come from near and far. It was the busiest of the chateau we visited. When we arrived the whole of the historic town surrounding the Chateau was buzzing.

There is no doubt you will see it from the road as you drive into the city. It holds a commanding and strategic position set high on the hill within the historic centre. It’s worth walking along the riverside to take in the view of the Chateau from the riverside before going closer. 

Where we stayed

We stayed in an apartment, Nature and Chateaux in the centre of the historic centre in Chinon. Well appointed and decorated in period furniture, The apartment was well located in the heart of the old town and within walking distance of all the sights and eateries. Our apartment had views up to the fortress and along the streets of the Old Town.

Hint: Don’t be tempted to take the cheaper option and stay on the other side of the river. The best part of staying in the Old Town is being part of the local scene at the end of the day and early morning when there are few or no other tourists around.

Dining options in Chinon

We enjoyed meals at several restaurants in the heart of Chinon:

  1. Jean of France Restaurant in the main square, Place de General de Gaulle.
  2. La Table de Jeanne on Re Voltaire and a stone’s throw from our apartment, Nature & Chateaux.
  3. Les Saveurs d’Italie, in Place de General de Gaulle

And, if you’re looking for a quality croissant or pastry, drop into the patisserie in Place Mirabeau. Be prepared to join the queue.

Our thoughts and recommendations

We loved our stay in Tours on a previous visit. Choosing to stay in Chinon provided us with the opportunity to see and do more while experiencing staying in a small medieval town. All villages and chateaus were easily accessible without travelling long distances and allowed us to linger where we wanted.

It’s easy to try and fit in visits inside lots of castles. We recommend choosing one or two to truly appreciate them. We compare visiting too many castles to visiting too many museums. After a while, you forget what was so special about each one. Save one or two to look forward to on your next visit.

For those who love cycling, the Loire Valley is very conducive to cycling with scenic cycling trails between villages, towns and chateaus. Villages, towns, chateaus and accommodation around the Valley provide cyclist-friendly facilities.

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Why you'll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city

Why you’ll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city

27/07/2022 / / 1 Comment

Rouen is just two hours drive from central Paris. Or, if like us, you prefer to meander along the quieter country roads through pretty villages and small townships surrounded by farmland, it will take closer to three hours. Read on and let us tell you why you’ll fall in love with Rouen, the secret French city.

We stayed in an apartment within walking distance of the heart of the historic centre. Within five minutes of stepping outside, we were surrounded by historic half-timbered houses, the city’s iconic Notre Dame Cathedral and a multitude of cafes and restaurants. 

France was in the middle of a heatwave with the temperature at 43 degrees Celcius when we arrived but undeterred we immediately ventured out to complete a reconnaissance of the Old Town.

Few people were about, some socialising over evening aperitifs at the local cafe/bar while others took cover under the shady trees in the park outside the Musee Beaux Arts. Shops are closed and the streets are mostly deserted. We didn’t venture far finding a Thai cafe close by for a dinner before going to bed. After the long flight and spending most of the day visiting our favourite haunts in Paris before driving to Rouen we were tired. 

Cloudy skies greeted us the next morning and the temperature had dropped dramatically overnight! With rain forecast for the afternoon, we took the opportunity to fit in a bit of exploring on our brisk morning walk. The River Seine divides the city much like Paris with the city having a Right and Left Bank. The Old City is located on the Right Bank and crossing over to the Left Bank it seemed that the Left Bank mainly houses the municipal and administrative buildings. However, we noticed one distinctive building standing prominently in front of a shopping centre a short distance from the River, the Englise Saint-Sever Catholic Church.

The Right Bank is where you’ll find all the main attractions.

Notre Dame Cathedral

The Cathedral is Rouen’s pride and joy. You’ll understand why when you set eyes on it. It’s an elegant building with an intricate facade. It was cloudy when we first stood in the square to look at it. However, it was particularly stunning later when the evening sun was shining on it. Wander inside to feast your eyes on the beautiful stained glass windows which date back to 1200.  And, if you’re visiting in the summer, come back to see the colourful light and sound show projected on the facade after dark.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Rouen
Rouen’s Notre Dame Cathdral

Palais de Justice

Originally Normandy’s Parliament in the 1500s, the Palais de Justice is an impressive Gothic building with spires and gargoyles decorating its exterior. These days it serves at Rouen’s courthouse. We asked to have a look inside and a policeman graciously ushered us straight past the security by a policeman into the courtyard where we could survey the architecture in more detail. We popped into a courtroom to sit in on judgements on what we believed were petty matters being read by judges to gowned barristers/solicitors and their clients. An exciting experience and a good way to see inside one of the regal courtrooms.

Palais de Justice, Rouen, France
The beautiful exterior of the Palais de Justice. Formerly Normandy’s Parliament Building and now Rouen’s Court House

Gros Horlage

You can’t miss Gros Horlage. It’s Rouen’s High Street  The highlight is not the shopping, however. The medieval astronomical clock dating back to the 15th century is why you should take a walk down Gros Horlage. Hint: Stand under the archway and look up at the sculpture.

Gros Horlage, Rouen, Normandy
The clock in the centre of the street is the highlight of walking along Gros Horlage.

Joan of Arc

Joan of Arc plays a key role in Rouen’s history. An interactive museum is dedicated to her in the palace where she was tried. In Old Market Square you’ll find a memorial at the spot where she was burnt at the stake.

Old Market Square, Rouen
The colourful Old Market Square

Old Market Square

There is more to the Old Market Square than Joan of Arc’s memorial. We dined at Manuel’s, one of the many restaurants around the perimeter of the square serving some of Normandy’s traditional foods. The half-timber houses scattered around the Square are worth looking at as well.

Church of Saint-Maclau

Saint Maclau was the first church we came across early in our visit to Rouen. We walked up a side street from the riverfront past beautiful half-timber houses to be greeted by this beautiful church. While not as large or grand as the Notre Dame, it holds a vantage point amongst the traditional houses and the beautiful square where you can enjoy a combination of views of the exquisite exterior of the Church surrounded by unique homes.

Church of Saint-Maclou
The intricate facade of the Church of Saint Maclou. The Church is set in a square with beautiful half-timbered houses surrounding it

Places to visit outside of Rouen

The Tourist Office provided us with a couple of suggestions to see the surrounding countryside. We opted to take the scenic fruit trail drive. Private orchards on one side of the road and the River Seine meandering along on the other accompanied us. The orchards were full of apple trees used to make cider, one of the region’s specialities. The trail ends at the little town of Les Mesnil des Jumieges. We continued driving along little lanes lined with large country homes to the pretty village of Jumieges to see the Abbaye. Quite a few cyclists were stopping to look as well. There are plenty of cycling and hiking routes in the area too.

Jumieges Abbaye
Jumieges Abbaye

We continued on the road to the pretty riverside villages of Rives en Seine and Villequeres before returning to Rouen, where heavy rain accompanied us on the way. Glad we weren’t cycling!

The other recommended drive was on the other side of the River to see the thatched houses. We’ve saved that to do on another visit.

Where we stayed

Le secret de Lea is located in a quiet street within the historic centre but distant enough to be in a micro-neighbourhood with its cafe, boulangerie and other amenities. The tastefully decorated apartment was spacious and had a separate bedroom and bed space for a family of four. Private garaged parking is also available. Our host Corrine thoughtfully provided extra amenities for the comfort of her guests. The Gare de Rouen is located a few hundred metres from the apartment if you’re arriving by train.

Why you’ll fall in love with Rouen

Rouen is the capital of Normandy. It seemed nothing like other capital cities we have visited. The City is a stop on the river cruising itinerary and apart from a few cyclists setting off from the boats on self-guided tours and a couple of small tour groups by the Notre Dame it seemed that we were the only visitors in the city. Rouen. With few people about, we got the impression that every day is a weekend day in Normandy’s capital city. We think that this jewel has not been discovered by tourists yet and suggest you visit before the secret is out.

Duomo de Milano
Milan's magnificent Duomo

How to see more of Milan in one day

03/04/2022 / / 0 Comments

The grand Vittorio Emmanuele building stood in front of us with the magnificent Duomo to our right. Our excitement to see more of Milan through the eyes of a local was not dampened by the blistering summer sun beating down on us while we waited. After thirty minutes though we realised the host of the walking tour was not going to appear. It looked like he had joined the other Milanese to abandon the city for the summer holidays! Our other walking tour buddies were just as disappointed as we separated in different directions to fend for ourselves.

See more of Milan with a Stroll Buddy

Fast forward to our next visit. We discovered the Stroll Buddy group (formerly Global Greeter Network) and booked a day with a Greeter before leaving on our six-week road trip. Dino and his apprentice, Sandro met us outside our apartment at precisely 9:30 am.

San Bernandino alle Ossa 

Our first stop was not far from our apartment in the city centre. Dino guided us into the side chapel of the church with walls embellished with human skulls and bones. Macabre but artistic too. The bizarre idea to decorate a chapel with human remains dates back to the Middle Ages. Space was running out in the courtyard cemetery where the church now stands so it was decided to excavate the remains and store them. A church was built with a dedicated chapel for the remains to be displayed.

The artistic creations will capture your attention but remember to look up to see the amazing frescoes on the ceiling. Sandro was astonished as us. He hadn’t seen the chapel in all his years living in the city!

The chapel of skulls in San Bernandino alle Ossa 

Milan University

There’s one thing we’ve discovered on our travels. Universities are full of hidden treasures and Milan University is no exception

We started our visit with a stroll along the outer walls while Dino provided some background history.  His commentary didn’t prepare us for the stunning main courtyard just inside the entrance.

Milan University courtyard
Milan University’s beautiful entrance courtyard

The grounds of the University are unique because two courtyards further inside the University precinct hold Roman ruins: a Roman fridge for storing perishables and medicines and a large kitchen with a courtyard where wood was stored and fires lit for cooking.

Roman ruins inside Milan University grounds
Roman ruins inside Milan University grounds

The University was a hospital in its past life and there were remnants of the past visible as we walked through the university. The old hospital ward now converted into a law library left a lasting impression as we walked through to see more of the University’s stunning architecture.

San Satiro Church

Retracing our steps to the main city area, Dino pointed out San Satiro church (Santa Maria presso San Satiro) urging us to make a visit the next day when it was open. Since we were staying in the area we returned to find the nondescript facade of the building is deceptive! We’ll not give away any secrets but we strongly recommend making time in your itinerary to visit. And, look out for the illusory apse when you visit.

The apse inside San Satiro Church
The decorative apse inside San Satiro Church

The L.O.V.E. sculpture

A large marble sculpture named L.O.V.E stands in front of the Stock Exchange building in Piazza degli Affari. According to Dino, the Milanese call it  “The Finger”. Commissioned in 2008, the sculpture is known to be a statement against the fascist rule and sends a message to the financial sector which contributed to the Italian financial crisis. There is a twist to the meaning of the name. L.O.V.E stands for liberta, odio, vendetta, and eternita (freedom, hate, revenge, and eternity). How did we miss it on past visits?

The L.O.V.E. sculpture, Milan Stock Exchange
The controversial L.O.V.E. sculpture outside Milan’s Stock Exchange

Castello Sforzesco

Castello Sforzesco
The ornate entrance to Castello Sforzesco

One of Milan’s most famous landmarks is the Castel. We had strolled around the fortress and gardens before, however this visit was much more informative. Dino invited us to look closer at the detail on the walls and things we had not paid attention to on past visits.

Our Stroll Buddies, Dino and Sandro were able to provided background information and insights to so many of the sights they took us to see

Beyond the castle are shaded gardens with paths to wander along to reach the Porta Napolean at the far end. Napolean, of course, wanted to make a grand entrance whenever he visited the city!

Dino shared stories and more history of his city as we navigated the circumference outside the castle walls. By this time we were all ready for a coffee break. Princi is one of Milan’s popular coffee houses and artisanal bakeries, and would you believe it, there was one just across the road. It was a hot day so a cold coffee, shaken, stirred and served in a martini glass was enjoyed by all before Sandro took his leave. He was expected home to have lunch with his father.

Brera

One of Milan’s most chic districts is Brera. It’s home to some of Milan’s best fashion boutiques along with numerous dining venues. The district’s past has left it with a bohemian touch. However, we were not there to shop or eat but to experience the arts.

Statue of Napoleon in the entrance to Academia di Belle Arti di Brera

Housed in an old convent, Dino took us into the Academia di Belle Arti di Brera (Academy of Fine Arts). The Academy shares its space with the Pinacoteca, an exhibition space housing the works of some of Italy’s greatest artists including Bellini, Raphael and Caravaggio. A leisurely walk through both provided the opportunity to view more famous exhibits along with the artworks of current and past students. Not to mention, a chance to appreciate the building’s magnificent architecture.

The highlight: Climbing a staircase to enter the Biblioteca Braidense, one of Italy’s largest and most beautiful national libraries. The walls are lined with books, dating back to the 1600s displayed in glass cabinets. We were lost for words!

Biblioteca Braidense

The Botanical Gardens are also in Brera. While we didn’t have an opportunity to visit at the time we will be returning to explore on our next visit.

Fashion in Moscova

The city’s reputation as one of the world’s fashion capitals is apparent throughout the city through the men, women and children who proudly wear Italy’s great fashion labels. And, Moscova is the district to go to for fashion, with small boutiques and fashion houses enticing visitors to shop.

Behind a nondescript frontage and through a courtyard bistro is the Moscova District Market. It’s a large space displaying collections well-known Italian brands and their latest collections. Today entry is limited and by reservation only. We recommend reserving to have a look inside if you have the time. You might even be tempted to take home a unique piece of clothing or accessory as a memento of your visit to Milan.

Moscova District Fashion Market
Moscova District Fashion Market is not your normal market!

Eataly stores are now located in many of the world’s major cities. If you haven’t visited one before and you’re a lover of Italian food and fare, you’ll enjoy wandering through the store located in Moscova. Stop for a bite to eat before you carry on to New Milan.

Porta Nuova

Porta Nova is everything a visitor to Milan will not expect and a contrast to the older districts we walked through. Some of the older rundown areas have been transformed into green spaces and walkways and futuristic office towers built. This is the city’s financial and business district. 

Dino led us along a pathway from the piazza to Bosco Verticale (Vertical Wood) The apartment complex was nominated as the most innovative high-rise in the world in 2014. Since then, it has inspired similar concepts in high-rise building architecture worldwide. Dino provided an insight into the area’s development and past history. It allowed us to appreciate it more than we would have if we had come to see it on our own.

Bosco Verticale

A young couple stopped to hear Dino’s commentary asking him what other highlights in Milan they should visit. Without hesitation, Dino provided them with a list of the places we had visited during the morning. Yet we knew from our time with Dino though, that they will not grasp what they are looking at. It is the small things that only a local knows that has enhanced our visit to this wonderful city.

Dino bids us farewell here. He politely declined our offer to take him to lunch. His wife was waiting for him at home with his lunch ready. He reluctantly accepted the small token of appreciation that we have brought, citing that it wasn’t necessary and that he would love to show us more at another time. With a wave, he left us to retrace our footsteps back to the city centre.

Our conclusion – did we see more of Milan?

Having been to Milan before, independently and with a tour group we agreed our time with Dino was very well spent. We could have looked up these sites and researched our hearts out but the insights and stories that Dino and Sandro provided into their city proved invaluable. There is no doubt that we will be seeing more of their city with them on a future visit.

In case you are interested…

Where we stayed

On a previous visit we had found an apartment offered by Hemeras Boutique Homes through Booking.com. They had a number of apartments throughout the city. Our apartment was two streets from the Cathedral and because of its proximity to all the main attractions, we were keen to return. We contacted them directly to enquire if they had the same apartment available. Unfortunately it was not, offering us another apartment in the same complex at a discount which we gladly accepted.

Where we ate

The precinct around via Paola da Cannobio where we stayed had numerous local eateries to choose from. After a day of wandering around the city it was pleasant to spend a relaxed summer evening dining where the locals enjoyed their evening meals.

Where we shopped

Milan is a fashion capital and if you’re wanting to take home a fashion piece , we’ll let you in on a secret place to shop. Elegant Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle offers designer and exclusive boutique shopping and the stores around the Duomo offer a choice of high street fashion. However, if you’ve got time and would like an Italian creation, walk the short distance to and along Corso Venezia. Here you’ll find our favourite outlet store, Matias. It’s a treasure trove of men’s and women’s fashion at reasonable prices.

Want to do something outside of the city?

Take a day trip to Lake Como one hour north of Milan. It’s easily accessible by rail, bus or car. If you have a car, you can take a slow drive winding your way around the lake where you’ll pass by beautiful lakefront villages to vibrant Bellagio. If you arrive in Como by bus or rail, indulge in hopping from town to town on the ferries which regularly criss-cross across the Lake.

Want to see more of Italy?

Read about some of our finds:

Need more info or suggestions on what to do in Milan and beyond?

Feel free to ask away in the comments below or email us at info@travellingsimply.com.

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Visiting Croatia? Be sure to include Zagreb in your itinerary

14/07/2019 / / 0 Comments

We clear Croatian border control and follow our trusty GPS, acres of fields and pastures flanking us on both sides of the road. The signage is clear and we continue our leisurely pace enjoying the scenery.

We know we are close to the city as the traffic becomes heavier but are surprised when the GPS suddenly comes to life, reminding us that our turn is up ahead. Why are we surprised? We have booked to stay in the centre of the city and there is no sign of city life even though the GPS tells us we are only a couple of kilometres from our destination!

“You have arrived at your destination on your right”, says the confident voice of the GPS as we pull up in front of a small farmhouse in the middle of nowhere. The address list is retrieved from the bag. Yes, we have plugged in the right address! If all else fails, enter the GPS coordinates and this confirms our suspicions; we are still another 30 minutes from our destination!

The Croatian capital city, Zagreb, is often bypassed by travellers who are lured to the popular cities of Split and Dubrovnik and an island or two off the coast for the ultimate Croatian experience.

We second guess ourselves as we drive into the city passing row upon row of utilitarian apartment buildings from the communist era. The roads are wide and easy to navigate but there doesn’t seem to be any old-world charm in sight.

Early impressions are quickly dispelled when a turn or two later, we are in the heart of Donji Grad, Zagreb’s historic Lower Town. Our host, “call me Porchca” is waiting to guide us into the no access area and into the apartment’s private parking area. We are not disappointed by our choice of accommodation, it is a spacious and cosy apartment just metres away from cafes and restaurants and beautiful green spaces. Bustling Jelacic Square is only a few hundred metres further.

Our highlights (in no particular order):

  • Enjoying outdoor music and activity in Park Zrinjevac, a beautiful green space in the Lower Town and just metres from our apartment which has been transformed into a night festival with food stalls and live music. No crowds and very family-friendly.

Park Zrinjevac

Summer festival in Park Zrinjevac

  • Watching international performers entertain larger audiences with classical concerts and dancing on the main stage in Jelacic Square.

Jelacic Square, Zagreb, Croatia

Evening entertainment in Jelacic Square

  • A morning walk to the expansive Maksimir Park in the middle of Zagreb through the streets and local markets peeking into doorways and shops along the way. An opportunity to observe the people of Zagreb go about their daily business. We remember a lovely older woman stopping to make sure we were okay as we tried to reorientate ourselves in a marketplace. She spoke no English and us, no Croatian.
  • An afternoon exploring Gornji Grad (Upper Town), strolling along the almost empty cobblestone streets and similarly empty St Mark’s Square allowing us to appreciate the beautiful St Mark’s Church and its multi-coloured tiled roof.

St Mark's Church, St Mark's Square, Gornji Grad, Zagreb,Croatia

St Mark’s Church with its distinctive tiled roof

  • People watching around the vibrant Dolac fruit and vegetable market.

Dolac Markets, Zagreb

The wonderful array of fresh produce at the markets

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  • A visit to the Museum of Broken Relationships. Set in a baroque palace in the Upper Town. The brainchild of a couple who remained friends after their own relationship had broken down, the couple started collecting anonymous donations of relics from Zagreb residents whose relationships had suffered a similar fate and created this interesting concept. Sounds a little quirky but well worth a visit.

Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb, Croatia

For a capital city, Zagreb still maintains a small-town feel and without the usual summer crush of tourists, we were able to wander about the Lower and Upper Towns freely.

All in all our time in Zagreb was a greater pleasure than Split or Dubrovnik.

P.S. – Our recommendations:

Located in the heart of the Lower Town, Apartment Atrium Plaza was the perfect place to stay. Newly renovated, clean and spacious, within walking distance of all attractions, numerous dining options outside the secure compound and superb hosts.

Exploring the streets a short distance from Park Zrinjevac, we found a wonderful place to have dinner. Heritage serves traditional Croatian food in the form of street food. Their menu offers the opportunity to try dishes from all the regions in Croatians accompanied by local wines and craft beers.

Have a spare day to kill? Take a day trip to the charming city of Ljubljana in Slovenia only two hours away by car and about the same by train. Explore the old city known for its beautiful bridges, green spaces, lively marketplace and Romanesque architecture. Then, take a leisurely drive back to Zagreb on the back roads which wind through some of the most picturesque scenery we have seen in Europe.

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Toast the New Year in with Champagne!

28/12/2018 / / 0 Comments

The year is drawing to a close and we feel a sense of satisfaction for accomplishing our planned travel goals with a few unplanned journeys thrown in.

As we prepare to toast in a New Year, memories of a few special days in the Champagne region of France come to mind.

After a few days of seeing the city through Parisienne eyes and wandering the rues and boulevards of Paris, we collected our car to begin our road trip.

First stop is the city of Reims. The unofficial capital of the Champagne region in the northeast of France is the perfect place to base ourselves for a day or two to explore the region.

Reims is not only the centre of the Champagne. It is home to some architectural wonders, including the imposing Notre Dame Cathedral (where French kings came to be coronated), the beautiful City Hall, the Basilica St Remi and many admirable squares.

  • Reims Town Hall
    Reims Town Hall
  • The Basilica

Many of the regions Champagne houses including Taittinger and Mumm are headquartered in Reims and offer tastings at their cellar doors. Their houses are accessed through grand entrances and beautifully manicured gardens. An indication of the high esteem the French hold for champagne.

  • champagne-house

After admiring the city, we spend a couple of days exploring further afield.

Day 1 is a short 25km drive to Epernay, the home of the world’s highly acclaimed champagne houses.

  • Avenue de Champagne

On arrival, we find the streets deserted and not teeming with tourists as we had expected at the height of the European summer. It is lunchtime and everything apart from eating establishments are closed for lunch.

The Avenue de Champagne is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful streets we stroll along. Even more stunning when you have the street to yourself. We wander in and out of the grand champagne houses amidst beautiful grounds and gardens. These are the best champagne producers in the world!

  • Moet and Chandon
  • Moet and Chandon gardens
    The beautiful grounds of Moet and Chandon

We are disappointed at our first stop, the famous house of Moet and Chandon. The cellars are closed for refurbishment until after summer. We are directed a little further up the road to the House of Mercier. A partner of Moet and Chandon and owned by the LVMH group of companies, Mercier champagne is the most popular champagne in France. Eugene Mercier established his champagne house with the intention of making champagne readily available and affordable to all so that it was not only consumed for a special event but so it would become part of everyday occasions. The tour of the underground caves (18km long), on a laser-guided autonomous tram, provided an insight into champagne production, the different stages of the ageing process along with an added surprise – the remarkable basal reliefs that decorated the walls of the underground caves.

  • ageing wine
    The ageing process – inside the caves
  • mercier-tasting
  • champagne-barrel
    The huge champagne barrel which was carted through the streets of Paris to be displayed at the Paris Exhibition in 1889

Of course, the tour would not be complete with a tasting. We enjoyed tasting the “wine for the people” complete with a lesson on how to distinguish between the different varieties. Though not connoisseurs, and now having tasted both Moet and Mercier champagnes, we agreed, both were not dissimilar!

The day ended with a leisurely drive back to Reims through the vineyards around Verzenay.

Day 2 is a beautiful summer day to take a slow 30-minute drive along the backroads among grapevines and vineyards to Hautvillers, home of another vintage champagne, Dom Perignon. The roads are quiet and we wonder why we have the roads to ourselves, there is not another vehicle in sight. It appears that everyone else is in a hurry and prefers to take the motorway.

Dom Pérignon (1638–1715) was a monk and cellar master at the Benedictine abbey in Hautvillers, a quaint French village. His tomb is in the little Abbey and remains devoid of tourist traffic.

We wander through the village and along the narrow lanes to find picnic grounds at the top of the hill. The views over vineyards and down to the little village of Cumieres and the aqua waters of the River Marne are breathtaking. This is heaven.

  • France-valley
    Looking down the hill to Cumieres from Hautvillers

It is decided, we drive back to Reims via Cumieres on roads set amongst the vineyards and the gently sloping countryside through small champagne villages. The perfect end to a perfect day.

Our road trip had just started and we continued our journey through Burgundy, Provence, Bordeaux and the other wine producing regions of France. However, we will cherish our few days in Champagne.

If you are planning a visit to Paris and have a couple of spare days, take a short sojourn in the Champagne region, you will not regret it.

P.S.  A short champagne lesson:

Brut – 40% pinot noir, 45% another white wine, 15% Chardonnay, contains 9% sugar. Brut is aged for 2 years and is then ready to drink. It should not be kept for more than 3 years.

Rose – has red wine added.

Demi-Sec is much sweeter with up to 40% more sugar. It is a dessert wine.

Brut Reserve has more reserve wine added and the taste can change from year to year depending on the reserve added.

No year on the bottle – no vintage!

  • Mercier chanpagne tasting
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