Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Author: Smita (Page 14 of 21)

Four fantastic cities to visit in The Netherlands

29/09/2019 / / 2 Comments

Our driving route in The Netherlands was inspired by a river cruise route

We are not ready for a river cruise and we want to see some of the smaller towns in Holland so we decided to drive part of the route on our way to Luxemburg parallel to the river route.

Our arrival was through Belgium. We had collected our car in Paris and made our way through northwestern France, Belgium and into The Netherlands for six days.

Not wanting to spend all our time in the bigger cities, we had researched some smaller towns to stop and spend time in:

  • Kinderdijk
  • Amersfoort
  • Thorn; and
  • Maastricht

Kinderdijk

Kinderdijk arrived on our list while we were deciding our first stop on the way to Amsterdam. A dull day was instantly brightened by the pretty towns and villages of southern Holland. Doorsteps were brimming pots filled with colourful flowers, as were the gardens.

Cyclists were ambling along the bicycle paths along the banks of waterways and along trails among the dykes. A small space in between some houses gave us our first glimpse. Not one, but half a dozen traditional windmills dotted around the countryside.

Rounding the corner past the village that we saw the extent of the complex. Nineteen working windmills set a typical postcard scene of the Dutch countryside.

On a cloudy afternoon, there were many visitors like us at the UNESCO World Heritage site. There are now pathways to walk or cycle for a close up look at the windmills and learn how the Netherlands has used them to drain their soil for habitation and cultivation for over a thousand years and the important part they still play today in a country where so much of the land is below sea level.

We recommend a visit to see these icons whether it be a day trip from Amsterdam or Rotterdam. Kinderdijk is 100km from Amsterdam and 25km from Rotterdam.

Kinderdijk windmills

Amersfoort

Amersfoort in central Holland has a quaint Old Town. Surrounded by a circular network of canals, we found the Old Town full of medieval buildings, small canals and alleyways opening into squares. It was easy to walk around and relatively people free during our visit. After the maddening crowds of Amsterdam, it was pleasant to take ourselves away from the tourist track and step back in time. There are several significant museums in the city, however, we were happy to wander and take in the atmosphere of the Old Town at our leisure.

Make a stop if you are driving from Amsterdam to Utrecht or further on.

Amersfoort

Thorn

Located in southern Holland, many come to see the extraordinary little “white town” of Thorn and to bicycle along the canals and around the town’s countryside. It was a sunny day, which made the whitewashed houses of Thorn even more impressive.

Most of the visitors were Dutch which made it even more special for us. Not a tour bus or group in sight. We were chuffed to have found this exclusive place which wasn’t overcrowded with tourists.

The town is not just scenic. It has a rich history back to the 10th century and, there is a story about why the houses are white. A beautiful abbey, established as a monastery for noblewomen is a centre point for the town and a wander down a tree-lined path at the end of the town takes you past country homes to a waterway lookout.

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Maastricht

We added Maastricht to our itinerary in the early stages of planning. The city appears on a number of river cruise itineraries.

Not only does the city have a history which dates back to the Neanderthals, but it also holds a place in modern history; the signing of the Maastricht Treaty in the city in 1992 lead to the creation of the European Union.

We put aside a couple of full days to stay and explore. The city was easy to walk around, we did not see any tour buses or groups during our stay and, not a riverboat came into sight on our walks along the riverbanks. We strolled through the town, along the narrow streets and squares on both sides of the Maas River while locals went about the daily business. There was plenty of people-watching and a walking tour with a local Greeter provided us with an insight into the history behind the churches, historic buildings and life in one of the oldest cities in Holland.

It was definitely worth stopping to stay than merely passing through on a day visit.

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Interested in including one or more of these cities on your itinerary? Look for more in-depth blogs on each city with our recommendations on what to see and do. Coming soon.

A secret village in Paris

28/07/2019 / / 6 Comments

Our accommodation is a little away from the centre of Paris on this visit, across the street from St Paul Village. It is within walking distance to all the iconic landmarks and gives us an opportunity to pretend to be Parisians and be tourists.

There is another village tucked away from the visitor’s gaze, Butte Bergeyre.

We set off early on a Saturday morning to find it. The streets are relatively empty apart from a few walkers like us getting an early start to the day. The city is quietly awakening.

A tourist stops us at the Place de Bastille to ask us whe Eiffel Tower is. It’s about an hour easy stroll. He decides it is too far to walk there. We hope he makes the effort to see it at some point in his visit!

Place de la Republique

Place de la Republique in the early morning light

Through Place de Republique and up the slight incline we walk taking in the change in scenery. Shop fronts are covered with grafitti covered roller doors so we can only imagine what is behind.

We pass by crowded clubs where patrons have spilled onto the street clasping onto the remnants of the night before. They are peacefully chatting and no one appears overly rowdy or intoxicated as they make way for us to pass by.

A little further on, the shop signs are written in Chinese. We are in Paris’ Chinatown district. The streets are still deserted, but we spot a couple of Chinese matrons taking their morning walk too.

Looking about us as we reach the top of the street, we notice that the atmosphere has once again changed. A boulangerie is opening up and also the local grocery store, large apartment building line Rue Mannin the street by the park which we have come to find.

Joggers run past us and the inhabitants of the area are out walking their dogs. We are looking for the steps at 21 Rue Mannin which are supposed to take us up to our destination.

Is it because we are so busy looking at everything else around us, or the fact that the steps are not obvious nor signposted that we walk straight past them? Or, that this is why Butte Bergeyre is a secret little spot.

We backtrack a little and climb the concrete steps to be greeted with narrow and empty cobblestoned streets lined with villas. Some are covered in ivy and others have their street frontage lined with flower pots. Not a soul is in sight as we quietly pick our way through the streets conscious of being the intruders in this haven for a select group of Parisians.

Butte Bergeyre

One of the villas in Butte Bergeyre

It is not hard to find the spot we have come searching for. At the far end of the small village we come to a well cultivated communal garden and the village vineyard which produces up to 100 bottles of Pinot Gris very year.

Butte Bergeyre

The pretty communal garden

We sit down on the perfectly positioned park bench and look out over the grapevines at the scenic view over Paris and the Sacre Couer.

Sacre Couer

Sacre Couer from the bench at the end of the village

How we got there – Butte Bergeyre is located in the 19th arrondissement. We walked there from Marais in the 4th arrondissement taking approximately 1 hour to get there, mostly because we were stopping along the way to observe our surroundings; take photos; and give a directions.

Another thing. On our way back, we also visited Cimitiere Pere Lachaise located in the 20th arrondissement. The beautiful garden cemetery is a tranquil sanctuary with rues of ornate tombs including Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison and Chopin.

Visiting Croatia? Be sure to include Zagreb in your itinerary

14/07/2019 / / 0 Comments

We clear Croatian border control and follow our trusty GPS, acres of fields and pastures flanking us on both sides of the road. The signage is clear and we continue our leisurely pace enjoying the scenery.

We know we are close to the city as the traffic becomes heavier but are surprised when the GPS suddenly comes to life, reminding us that our turn is up ahead. Why are we surprised? We have booked to stay in the centre of the city and there is no sign of city life even though the GPS tells us we are only a couple of kilometres from our destination!

“You have arrived at your destination on your right”, says the confident voice of the GPS as we pull up in front of a small farmhouse in the middle of nowhere. The address list is retrieved from the bag. Yes, we have plugged in the right address! If all else fails, enter the GPS coordinates and this confirms our suspicions; we are still another 30 minutes from our destination!

The Croatian capital city, Zagreb, is often bypassed by travellers who are lured to the popular cities of Split and Dubrovnik and an island or two off the coast for the ultimate Croatian experience.

We second guess ourselves as we drive into the city passing row upon row of utilitarian apartment buildings from the communist era. The roads are wide and easy to navigate but there doesn’t seem to be any old-world charm in sight.

Early impressions are quickly dispelled when a turn or two later, we are in the heart of Donji Grad, Zagreb’s historic Lower Town. Our host, “call me Porchca” is waiting to guide us into the no access area and into the apartment’s private parking area. We are not disappointed by our choice of accommodation, it is a spacious and cosy apartment just metres away from cafes and restaurants and beautiful green spaces. Bustling Jelacic Square is only a few hundred metres further.

Our highlights (in no particular order):

  • Enjoying outdoor music and activity in Park Zrinjevac, a beautiful green space in the Lower Town and just metres from our apartment which has been transformed into a night festival with food stalls and live music. No crowds and very family-friendly.
Park Zrinjevac

Summer festival in Park Zrinjevac

  • Watching international performers entertain larger audiences with classical concerts and dancing on the main stage in Jelacic Square.
Jelacic Square, Zagreb, Croatia

Evening entertainment in Jelacic Square

  • A morning walk to the expansive Maksimir Park in the middle of Zagreb through the streets and local markets peeking into doorways and shops along the way. An opportunity to observe the people of Zagreb go about their daily business. We remember a lovely older woman stopping to make sure we were okay as we tried to reorientate ourselves in a marketplace. She spoke no English and us, no Croatian.
  • An afternoon exploring Gornji Grad (Upper Town), strolling along the almost empty cobblestone streets and similarly empty St Mark’s Square allowing us to appreciate the beautiful St Mark’s Church and its multi-coloured tiled roof.
St Mark's Church, St Mark's Square, Gornji Grad, Zagreb,Croatia

St Mark’s Church with its distinctive tiled roof

  • People watching around the vibrant Dolac fruit and vegetable market.
Dolac Markets, Zagreb

The wonderful array of fresh produce at the markets

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  • A visit to the Museum of Broken Relationships. Set in a baroque palace in the Upper Town. The brainchild of a couple who remained friends after their own relationship had broken down, the couple started collecting anonymous donations of relics from Zagreb residents whose relationships had suffered a similar fate and created this interesting concept. Sounds a little quirky but well worth a visit.

Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb, Croatia

For a capital city, Zagreb still maintains a small-town feel and without the usual summer crush of tourists, we were able to wander about the Lower and Upper Towns freely.

All in all our time in Zagreb was a greater pleasure than Split or Dubrovnik.

P.S. – Our recommendations:

Located in the heart of the Lower Town, Apartment Atrium Plaza was the perfect place to stay. Newly renovated, clean and spacious, within walking distance of all attractions, numerous dining options outside the secure compound and superb hosts.

Exploring the streets a short distance from Park Zrinjevac, we found a wonderful place to have dinner. Heritage serves traditional Croatian food in the form of street food. Their menu offers the opportunity to try dishes from all the regions in Croatians accompanied by local wines and craft beers.

Have a spare day to kill? Take a day trip to the charming city of Ljubljana in Slovenia only two hours away by car and about the same by train. Explore the old city known for its beautiful bridges, green spaces, lively marketplace and Romanesque architecture. Then, take a leisurely drive back to Zagreb on the back roads which wind through some of the most picturesque scenery we have seen in Europe.

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You will love doing this one thing in Barcelona!

16/06/2019 / / 6 Comments

As they do in most European countries, the day started slowly. This is typical in summer when cities are buzzing with dining, theatre and music until the early hours.

We step out of our apartment just a few metres away to find Las Ramblas starting to come alive. The leafy promenade runs from Placa de Catalunya, the point where the old town and new town collide down to the Christopher Columbus monument at the port.  The beautiful plane trees conveniently shelter tourists from the strong summer sun. We hear many different languages being spoken around us, but not English!

Las Ramblas, Barcelona

Las Ramblas, Barcelona’s vibrant promenade in the heart of the city centre

We are intent on starting our Sunday exploring the back lanes and plazas of the Gothic Quarter before making our way Montjuic Hill for the afternoon. It’s a Sunday and expecting to see the quiet weekend life of the Catalunyian capital, we stroll down an alleyway off Las Ramblas stepping right into the middle of a melee. We see hundreds of people, some clambering on top of each other and while many crowded in groups and others around the perimeter of the square.

We are in Plaza Sant Jaume, the home of City Hall. During the week the plaza is buzzing with town officials going about the business of running this busy seaport city. Weekends, it seems, is for the residents of this vibrant Catalonian capital.

Often the scene for protests, today, residents are using the Plaza for another Catalunyian tradition – building castells or “castles”.

So what is this obsession with building castles?

Unique to the region of Catalunya, forming human castles began in the 18th century when they were built as part of religious festivities. At the end of the celebrations, people formed towers of three or four layers putting on a show to outdo the dancers.

Since the 1980’s, building human towers has become a sport and have grown so much in popularity that there are now competitions to build 9 or 10 tiers of people. The grand finale is a young child clambering up and over team members to raise his arm and four fingers, symbolising the four stripes in the Catalan flag at the top of the tower.

There are at least four teams competing today. Each team dressed in white with black sashes and colourful bandanas representing their allegiance and comradeship. We stand back to observe.

Some of these towers look fragile and precarious, looking as if they will collapse at any moment. However, none of the towers collapse. It is an example of extreme precision, teamwork and commitment with an element of trust involved.  Everyone contributes to the team’s success, from the heaviest to the lightest of participants. The base “pinya” consists of the strongest team members, they must be strong and powerful to form the firm base for the more agile and lighter team member who form tiers supporting others on their shoulders until the lightest climbs to the top. It is the team that forms the tower the quickest that wins.

Castell building in Catalunya

With the base in place, the human tower starts to rise

Human towers in Barcelona

More tiers are added to the human tower!

The atmosphere in the plaza is one of intense concentration coupled with fun and laughter further intensified when the Mayor and his contingent appear on the balcony to watch the proceedings.

Barcelona offers much to the visitor: a colourful history; interesting and amazing architecture; museums and theatres; golden beaches; and a wonderful dining culture. If you want to experience the real Barcelona, do not miss a chance to watch the art of building castells next time you visit.

Human towers/castells in Barcelona

The human tower is almost complete with the young child making her way to the top.

Looking for something else to do in Barcelona? Read about our day in Palau Guell and why we recommend spending some time there.

A glorious day in the Sonoma Valley

27/05/2019 / / 1 Comment

The sky is clear and blue as we drive over the Golden Gate Bridge. What a contrast it is to the day before when we walked over the bridge enveloped in eerie fog as it swirled and rolled all around us. We had experienced the phenomenon of the mixing of the hot inland and the cool ocean air which creates a fog rolling over the Golden Gate Bridge into San Francisco Bay during the summer.

It is not long after enjoying spectacular views while driving over the Golden Gate Bridge that we are surrounded in beautiful countryside, rolling hills and farmland. We are on our way to explore the Sonoma Valley.

When considering visiting wineries in northern California, tourists go to the Napa Valley. Most tours from San Francisco concentrate on taking visitors there in busloads. Not as well known or marketed, Sonoma is the more sedate cousin of the busier Napa Valley. Driving between the valleys typically takes less than an hour and we expected to end our day in Napa.

But we are eager to spend most of our time in Sonoma and surrounds. It is Sonoma’s historic background along with its reputation for producing exemplary wines equal in quality but lesser known than Napa’s wines which has drawn us there.

First stop is the Cornerstone, an indoor/outdoor complex offering boutiques, artisans, and wine tastings. It would be easy to while away a day just wandering their splendid gardens of art. One of Cornerstone’s helpful volunteers gives us advice on what we should do in Sonoma.

  • Cornerstone art gardens
    The beautiful themed gardens at Cornerstone

Next, we must stop to visit the historic Plaza. It is the largest plaza (town square) in California. A former military outpost and Spanish Mission settlement, the Plaza radiates tranquillity as we drive in. The historic Old Town Hall surrounded by tree-covered park area is in the centre of the Plaza You sense you have stepped back in time. Local people quietly go about their business. There is no hustle and bustle and there is ample parking around the Plaza. Galleries, eateries, wine tasting rooms and artisanal shops sit interspersed between historic landmarks around the four sides of the Plaza and the alleyways leading to discreet courtyards. We spend a couple of hours exploring the historic buildings, having lunch and indulging in sampling local cheese and chocolate. Apart from the tasting rooms, there is little evidence that we are in wine country.

  • Sonoma Old Town Hall
    Sonoma Old Town Hall
  • Sonoma Plaza
  • Sonoma Plaza
  • Sonoma Plaza
  • Sonoma Plaza

We reluctantly leave this sanctuary. The lovely lady at Cornerstone has suggested we visit one of the more unique vineyards in the region. Benziger Wines is a boutique biodynamic farm and this is an opportunity for us to see how they create their organic wines. We arrive in time to join a small group tour of the farm. The tour takes us on a guided journey through the picturesque vineyards explaining the biodynamic winemaking practices the Benziger family has adopted to produce world-class organic wines. We stop at regular intervals among the grapevines to receive a lesson on grape varieties and to taste wines produced from the grapes. The tour finishes with a stop at the outdoor winemaking area and a tour of the wine caves lined with bottles of wine traversing the ageing process. 300,000 bottles of wine are produced annually by the vineyard. A visit to the tasting room completes our visit. We have gained an appreciation of the distinctness of the organic product.

  • Benziger Wines
  • Benziger Wines

There is just enough time to carry on through the rolling hills and valleys of vineyards to Napa. Not to visit any more vineyards or wineries, but to complete a day out with a meal in the wine capital of northern California.

  • Benziger Wines

Were we happy with our choice to visit Sonoma? Being simple travellers spending time wandering the Sonoma settlement and surrounding countryside was more appealing than battling the large numbers that descend on the Napa. Indeed, it was a glorious day out.

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