Travelling Simply

Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Author: Smita (Page 20 of 21)

The Lake District and Yorkshire Dales, northern England

25/02/2018 / / 1 Comment

Only have a short time and torn between visiting the beautiful Lake District and Yorkshire Dales in northern England. The good news is that you can visit both and spend a couple of days exploring each if you stay in the lovely market town of Kendal, lined with its limestone buildings.

Situated on the edge of the Lake District and lined with old limestone buildings, Kendal has its own historic past with plenty to do in the town itself and immediate surrounds. Did you know that the fictional town of Greendale in the Postman Pat stories are based on the town of Longsleddale which is near Kendal?

Kendal is quieter than the busy lakeside towns of Windermere and Ambleside but within easy driving distance to all the activities both the Lakes and the Dales have to offer.  There are plenty of pretty tearooms, pavement cafes, restaurants and traditional pubs to retreat to after a day out exploring.

We decided to stay at the Castle Green Hotel located just under 3km from Kendal town centre. Set on the outskirts of the Kendal overlooking the town with a backdrop of woodlands, the hotel provides the atmosphere of really staying in the country. The beautifully landscaped gardens, al fresco bar and restaurants provide an excellent sanctuary for those of us who opt to sit and unwind after the long drive from the south or a busy day hiking in the area.

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Breakfasts were substantial and varied with lots of healthy options providing us with energy and sustenance for our days out hiking and sightseeing. We took the option of enjoying a pre-dinner drink and an evening meal at the more informal on-site restaurant Alexander’s which is located in what was once the old stable area. It is well frequented by locals as well as visitors to the area. As well as outdoor seating, Alexander’s has a cosy area where you can sit down for a beer, wine or aperitif before dinner. Fine dining is available at the alternate restaurant, Greenhouse which serves the best of Cumbrian fare if you prefer.

Castle Green Hotel staff were professional and helpful, armed with hiking maps and advice on what we should do during our limited time ensuring we thoroughly enjoyed our time in visiting both areas and determined to stay longer next time.

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Hable Ingles? (Do you speak English?)

11/02/2018 / / 0 Comments

We climbed into the taxi at the airport somewhat bewildered after disembarking our flight. We had been whisked in a series of trains from the aircraft to the main terminal to clear Customs and collect our baggage.

With fuzzy brains, we were unanimous that it would be easier to catch a taxi to the hotel, where we would stay overnight before bidding our sons farewell as they joined a Contiki tour. We will take a more authentic driving tour around the country.

Our taxi driver seemed an amiable man who responded to our son’s “Hable Inglés?” with a tirade of Spanish that none of us could understand! The boys looked at each other, then us and shrugged. Our hopes of getting off to a start in Spain were pinned on the two years of Spanish lessons our sons had taken at high school nine years ago!

It was Sunday morning, with little traffic on the roads and we looked enthusiastically out of the windows. The taxi driver suddenly uttered something the boys could understand. He was asking where we came from?

“Oh Australia”, one of the boys piped up. A mile-wide smile appeared on the driver’s face. “Ahh, Australia, Casey Stoner, Casey Stoner”, the driver replied. The driver was a fan of MotoGP. We smiled and nodded furiously in unison.

For the remainder of our journey, the taxi driver became our official tour guide, pointing out landmarks, and proudly directing our attention to Real Madrid’s football stadium as we drove by despite being an Athletico Madrid fan. We felt privileged to receive his hospitality.

Outside the hotel, the driver indicated the amount on the meter and an additional surcharge, quickly pocketing the large note that He produced! Again, we looked at one another and instantly knew what hotel reception confirmed a few minutes later. Tour guides come at a price!

Settled in, we took a wander around Charmartin to research the important stuff – where to have dinner that night! The streets were deserted, everything was closed. It was like a ghost town. Mid-afternoon in Madrid, maybe it was siesta time.

When in Rome, do as the Romans do and when in Spain…  We had had an early start to catch our flight from Heathrow that morning and so siesta time it was.

Rested and relaxed, we resurfaced at cocktail hour. Still no one in the streets.

charmartinstattion

Charmartin is Madrid’s business district, well known for the two iconic inclined office buildings and the Madrid’s second largest train station. The hotel was across from the station, the reason why the Contiki group were meeting at this particular hotel and the reason why there was nothing open on a Sunday apart from a restaurant immediately outside the hotel.

A beautiful summer evening, we joined others sitting in the alfresco area and perused the tapas menu. Not a word of English. The only thing we recognised on the menu was “Patatas Bravas”. This was going to be an interesting meal. Out came our phrasebooks.

Phrasebooks seem to be very good explaining to the tourist how to ask for a beer in Spanish but totally unhelpful in deciphering a menu. Twenty minutes later and we were none the wiser.

A couple of young fellows at the table next door were enjoying a nice meal and speaking to each other in English. “That looks good, what are you having?”, we asked giving them our menu for them to point out their choices.

“We can’t understand a word of that. Here, take a look at our menu. It’s in English.”

The waiter must have thought we were Spanish!

Madrid

The “Old Man of Coniston”

29/01/2018 / / 1 Comment

Last year, we were a little anxious about escaping our winter. Our normal plan is to take some time out in a warmer part of the northern hemisphere. Summer in England is always a little bit of a gamble and even more so if you are planning to spend time in the Lake District.

One of our favourite English TV programs, Last of the Summer Wine has left us with a desire to amble through the English countryside. We’ll take a gamble to fulfil our dream of visiting the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales. We are warned not to expect perfect weather. It rains a lot in the Lake District at any time of the year!

The Lake District is made up of a number of villages and towns around a series of lakes. The English and tourists alike flock to this area in the summer to enjoy a myriad of activities on land and water.

We are joining them! We plan a balance of sightseeing, outdoor activity and relaxation. The amount of time we spend on each will be determined by the weather!

It’s raining gently as we start our drive north over the rolling hills and lush green pastures. It clears as we get closer to our destination revealing quaint villages with window boxes and hanging pots filled with colourful flowering annuals. We are in our element, exactly how we pictured the English countryside.

We have decided to stay in the country town of Kendal. It’s the perfect town to stay in if you want to visit both the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales in one visit.

Sailing

As a child, I grew up reading the Swallows and Amazons series of books by English author Arthur Ransome. Ransome’s stories are based on the outdoor activities and adventures of the children of two families around Lake Coniston. How exciting to be here having our own little adventure!

It is a beautiful sunny afternoon as we drive the winding lakeside roads to Lake Coniston after a spending the morning on Lake Windermere. Our intention is to hike up the “Old Man of Coniston”, the highest point in the area to take in the views.

We park in the pretty little Coniston village to start our walk. We have heard the walk is a little steep so are not surprised at the vertical roadside climb we are immediately confronted with. Reaching the top of the shady road, the terrain flattens out and we meander through country lanes, past pastures and fields lined with brambles and blackberry bushes. What a pretty walk!

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We are surprised to reach another carpark. Obviously, this is the lookout. That was an easy hike. Nowhere near as long and nothing like our walk over the green countryside from Ambleside to Grassmere a couple of days ago. All these people have missed a lovely amble through along country roads by just driving their cars up to the lookout.

But no. A closer look at the sign tells us that this is the start of the walk to the summit lookout. We carry on upwards. Initially, we trek through greenery surrounded by rolling farmland with sheep before it slowly changes to a rough steep hillside covered in slate.  The Old Man was the site of a number of quarries operating as early as the 1500’s and we see relics of past mining activity on our way up.

We stop at Low Water to take in the breathtaking view of Lake Coniston and surrounds. However, the track is popular and it has taken longer than we expected partially hindered by the number of people taking the same journey but also because we have walked up in our trainers instead of hiking boots. Other climbers tell us the summit is not far, however, the signage has not been accurate so we decide that it is time to turn back.

Lake Coniston

On the way down we pass other enthusiastic hikers making their way up. I’m not sure how some of them will deal with the slippery slate track, especially the young Japanese couple who we see at the beginning of the route up. The girl is wearing heels!

By the time we reach the village, it’s time for dinner. Time to sit back and enjoy a cold beer with a meal in one of the two village pubs and catch a bit of local banter. A perfect end to a summer day by a lake in the English countryside.

We’ll be back to conquer the summit!

 

A hot summer evening in Tuscany

14/01/2018 / / 0 Comments

Evening in the Piazza

The heat of the afternoon eases and neighbourhoods come to life. Whether in a city, town or small village, the beauty of an unfolding summer evening is magical.

Folk, young and old slowly appear. The elderly gather in groups sitting on benches in piazzas for a leisurely chat, young adults congregate in corners of the same piazza with their beverages of choice, middle-aged couples meet up with friends for a pre-dinner cocktail spilling into the piazza from restaurants and bars while young couples, some pushing perambulators, take their evening stroll around perimeter of the piazza.

It is a gentle time of the evening which eventually extends into the night. The piazza can become crowded, however, each is respectful of the other. Unspoken respect for the senior members of the community is evident, respect of space and privacy is apparent, the conversation is barely audible while the tinkle of laughter is pleasant to the ear. There is none of the familiar loud, rowdy behaviour of gatherings that we’re used to at home. There is an obvious air of civility!

However, there is, something else that has captured my attention. My eyes were drawn to the vibrant orange aperitif that all the Milanese seem to be drinking.

We continue to appreciate the beautiful wines as we drive south through the Italian countryside over the next few weeks. By the time we arrive in Arezzo, I am intrigued. Even the Tuscans have embraced this aperitif. Surely they haven’t lost the taste for their fine wines!

And so it is, after a hot summer day jaunt through the rolling countryside, winding our way through backroads among vineyards and stopping to purchase a few bottles of renown Montepulcian wine to savour on our journey further south that we arrive back in Arezzo in time for cocktails before dinner. And, everywhere I look the locals sitting down with those orange drinks!

Montepulciano

I prod him, and he bravely asks the couple sitting across from us what they are drinking. Aperol Spritz, they say. We are none the wiser and it’s time to order.

We are hooked. The most wonderful way to start an evening joining the locals and tourists alike, sipping our refreshing Aperol Spritzers mixed with watching an evening slowly unfold in a small Italian town. Is this La Dolce Vita?

It costs Euro 8! Aha yes, but that includes olives, cheese and focaccia pieces to nibble on.

Aperol

Fast forward a couple of years and back at home, Aperol Spritzers are in vogue. And, here we sit on our balcony on another hot summer evening sipping on our Aperol Spritzers watching the locals going for their evening walk along the riverfront.

You don’t have to be in Europe, have one of these at home this summer.  The recipe is below. Be warned – Aperol Spritzers can be addictive!

3 parts Prosecco
2 parts Aperol
1 part Soda Water
Add a slice of orange, load with ice and enjoy!

Ah, but the beauty of a summer evening in Europe! We cannot wait to see what they are drinking in Europe this year.

Goodwill and kindness is an every day thing!

17/12/2017 / / 0 Comments

Christmas is the season of goodwill and kindness to our fellow man.

Random acts of kindness are even more important and appreciated when travelling. The patience of the restaurant waiter who takes pains to explain a menu written in a language you don’t understand, the kind grandmother in our compartment who smiles and nods continuously while offering our teenage sons lollies during our three hour train journey, the hospitality of the owner of our apartment who takes us for coffee to explain the area where we are living in, things that we “must do”, the buses to take and those to avoid, and the intricacies of traversing the city are the things which demonstrate the goodwill and kindness of everyday people.

We were driving south from Rome. Our ultimate destination was Sicily, but we were taking our time getting there.

The ruins of Pompeii are captivating. Having wandered through them a few years before as part of a group, we were keen to visit again to see more of it. For the record, it was not a disappointment going back for more in-depth look. In fact, we realised that we had only skimmed through the first time.

Before, we got to Pompeii however, we had plans to stop and have a look at the smaller, less visited but better preserved UNESCO World Heritage site, Herculaneum in which the town of Ercolano now stands.

Herculaneum

Our trusty TomTom which we take with us whenever we self-drive did a good job of making sure we took the right turn off. It had trouble, however, recognising “Herculaneum”. With no signage directing us to the ruins visible, we played a guessing game resulting in driving up and down the main street a couple of times entering from different ends after circumnavigating the central town area.

Ercolano

The main street of Ercolano

Ending up on a dead end street we decided to do the sensible thing of stopping to ask directions.  A group of men are having a lively and animated discussion outside a cafe. They are gesticulating at each other. Fisticuffs are about to break out!  We decide to distract them. In our limited Italian we asked the way to the “scarvi” (it means excavations In Italian).

They all looked at each other. We know what they were thinking “How to explain?”. Obviously we were nowhere near where we were supposed to be!

They looked at each other again and had another animated discussion between themselves, some smiling and some laughing. It looked like they had come up with a solution. Their argument is forgotten.

Two men directed us back into our car, put their motorbike helmets on and summoned us to follow. These two men guided us through the streets to the site of the ruins, directing us to where the entrance was before leading us into the public car park, ensuring we knew how and where to pay  and then disappearing like genies before we had an opportunity to thank or give them a token of our appreciation.

Left to our own devices, it would be safe to assume that we would have given up our search for Herculaneum and missed out on spending a wonderful couple of hours wandering through this ancient city. Excavations have unearthed better preserved buildings and artefacts than Pompeii giving visitors a better idea of how life was lived in Roman times.

Ruins

That evening He discovers that his watch keeps falling off his wrist. The watchband needs a replacement pin. Next morning we wander into a jewellery shop close to the Pompeii ruins. Using sign language we indicate the problem. The older gent takes a while. Hello. How much is this going to cost? We have heard of unscrupulous locals who take advantage of travellers. He hammers away with a little hammer. I hope he hasn’t broken the watch. Then he walks over from his workbench smiling. There you go! It’s all fixed. How much? No charge. Come on, He is happy to pay. No, you are visitors to our country! It’s our duty to be hospitable. Enjoy your travels!

These are all small gestures which allows us to see the good in all the people we meet, appreciate and fall in love with travel.

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