There are many ways to discover Portugal’s Duoro Valley. River cruises are always very enticing or, you can complete a day trip by train from the popular city of Porto. However, having spent a few days in this very special part of the world, we think the best way to see more of the Duoro Valley is by car.
Whether you’re a wine lover or not, you’ll find the Duoro Valley’s scenery breathtaking. Kilometres and kilometres of terraced vineyards rise high up into the mountains and small villages are scattered in between.
Peso de Regua
Peso de Regua is a busy city on the banks of the Duoro River and one of the gateways to the vineyards of the Valley. Our research determined that the best place to access the short river cruise was Regua. It was important to note though that the Duoro Valley is still relatively quiet after the pandemic and few river cruise operators were functioning while we were there. The one we hoped to book with required four passengers to make the cruise viable and we were the only two at the assigned departure time so missed the opportunity.
Not being able to cruise the river gave us an unexpected chance to see the Valley by road. In hindsight, we are so glad that fate intervened.
Only one large river cruise boat was in Port on the day we visited Regua. Although we got the feeling the town was used to catering for more in better times. Passengers boarded buses for afternoon tours around the Valley as we enjoyed the scenery from the dockside. Unfortunately, buses cannot access the roads that wind amongst the terraces. It’s a shame they will miss the best parts and views that can only be seen on these roads.
Pinhao
The drive from Peso de Regua to Pinhao, or vice versa, is rated as one of the most scenic drives in the world. And it lived up to expectations. If you’re fortunate, you may have an opportunity to watch a barge or riverboat work its way through the lock.
There was however a little traffic jam along the riverfront road. We had caught up with the Viking River Cruise tour buses and they were blocking the road as they manoeuvred their way out of town. Again, captivating scenery greeted us
Once you get to Pinhao, you’ll find it’s a sleepy town. In contrast to Pesa de Regua, Pinhao is a sleepy little town. However, you’ll find the scenery captivating.
Another way to travel from Peso de Regua to Pinhao is by train. Many tourists also take the train journey from Porto on a day trip. Both journeys arrive a Pinhao’s train station which is a little gem to look at.
Take a break away from the breathtaking scenery to have a look at the blue tiles frontage and walk through the inside to have the stories of the region told by the painted blue tiles on the station platform.
Lamego
More terraces covered in grapevines accompanied us on the road to the small town of Lamego. It’s a slow 20-minute drive away from Pesa de Regua however, you will find that it’s like being in a different world. Small churches and manicured green parks in the middle of town where residents gathered gave this small town an air of gentrification.
Vila Real
We stumbled upon the town of Vila Real while looking for suitable accommodation. The sole representative at the town’s tourist office, who only spoke German and Spanish, conveyed to us in no uncertain terms that there was absolutely nothing to see in Vila Real!
We beg to differ. Agreed. You can visit the sights, which are primarily churches over an hour. A walk around the town area doesn’t take very long at all., an hour at a stroll. The old town area, however, has a vibe that we didn’t find in the other Duoro towns.
Pop into the market in the morning and that’s where you’ll find the locals. A wonderful atmosphere, stall owners calling out their specials to potential customers, men gathered in groups discussing whatever it is they discuss, and similarly, women gathered around vegetable stalls or sitting down for a gossip over coffee.
Dining options reflected a very local menu and included wines from the area in a relaxed environment.
One of the highlights of staying in Vila Real
If your stay happens to coincide with a Saturday evening in July and August, you’ll be in for a special treat. Every Saturday at 10:00 pm, you’ll find live entertainment in the main square. During our stay, we were treated to a brass band who were touring the Duroro from a small island in the Azores that entertained the township for 90 minutes or more.
Palais Mateus
One of Portugal’s well know wines is Mateus. Busloads of tourists come to visit the beautiful Palais and gardens from Pesa de Regua, Pinhao and further afield. The Palais is located less than 5km from Vila Real and allows you to easily go to visit and appreciate the Palais and tranquil grounds with the surrounding vineyard before the busloads of tourists descend.
Wine tasting while in the Duoro Valley
When you’re surrounded by vineyards and wine tasting options it’s hard to decide which is the one for you.
You may prefer to take advantage of the whole experience by staying at one of the vineyards. We decided not to take this option so we could explore more of the Valley. However, should you have the time and prefer to, we’ve found this website provides credible opportunities.
Of course, like us, if you prefer to base yourself in one of the Duoro “towns”, then you can drive yourself between the many cellar doors to wine taste at your leisure.
Our conclusion
The Duoro Valley is one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Breathtaking scenery accompanied us wherever we went in the Valley.
We will definitely consider seeing the Valley on a river cruise in the future. However, for a first experience, travelling between the towns and driving in, around and out of the region by road allowed us to see so much scenery that can’t be reached by bus or boat, and take away memories that we had never imagined.
Hoping that we have encouraged you to visit the beautiful Duoro Valley on a road trip. We’re sure you’ll enjoy it as much as we did!
P.S. To help you plan your Duoro road itinerary, take a look at this website which offers some planned routes.
