Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Category: Our recommendations (Page 3 of 6)

A hidden gem in London you must visit

Julia, our London greeter meets us outside the Welcome Centre at the Tower of London. After a couple of days retracing our path around London’s popular tourist spots, we are looking forward to seeing a little of the hidden London reserved for those who dare to look for more.

St Katharine Dock

Along the Thames end of the Tower following the path around the corner, there is our first surprise: a marina full of all types of sailing vessels encircled by a mixture of old and new buildings. Just minutes from central London and we feel like we are in a completely different world.

Newer sailing vessels line up behind an older ship and we watch as the shipmaster shouts instructions to his shipmates as he carefully guides his charge through the lock into the River Thames.

After walking back and forth over small footbridges around the marina we arrive at the pride and joy of the marina. The Gloriana is the British Royal barge commissioned for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. The regal rowing barge is based at the Dock and kept in pristine working order ready to make an appearance on the river at the drop of a hat. And, in the summer months, Gloriana sometimes sails up and down the Thames albeit powered by its onboard motors.

The Royal rowing barge, Gloriana
The Royal rowing barge, Gloriana

Wapping

Further along from the Dock, we pass stately Georgian and Edwardian homes sitting on the banks of River then enter the narrower paths. This is Wapping.

20170817_2125047565079958769003597

A passageway leads us to the old stairs leading down to the River at the rear of the Town of Ramsgate pub, one of the oldest pubs in London. Julia recounts stories from the past of east London while we sit on the stairs to admire the views up, down and across the River.

Town of Ramsgate Pub by the Old Stairs, Wapping

Wapping was once a pretty rough part of town. This is where ships arrived from all parts of the world to unload their cargo and thieves and petty criminals hung hoping for a bit of luck. Most were unlucky ending up at the gallows for their efforts. The area is known for its Execution Dock, where these thieves and criminals along with mutineers and pirates met their end. One of the most famous in history is Scottish Captain William Kidd, whose life and times are now portrayed in literature, film and music.

There is more to see. Walking further along, there are memories of the past all around us that we would not have noticed had our attention not been drawn to them. Many of the old warehouses which used to store tobacco, rice and wine have now been converted into upmarket apartments and houses or eating establishments and cafes. Their facades still hold remnants of their historic past lives.

St Johns Old School with its two distinctive statues standing above the doorways indicating separate entrances into the school for boys and girls stands opposite the old St John’s Churchyard. The school building dates back to the mid-1700s. Little remains of the churchyard today. Instead, it has given way to become a leafy garden with park benches on which to sit and appreciate the school building. The building is no longer used for the purpose it was built for. It is now a private residence and the two statues are replicas with the originals stored safely away.

The statues above the entrance of Old St John School

Wapping was and is home to many old pubs and one of them, Turner’s Old Star, has a story behind it. The pub was originally two homes inherited by the artist Joseph William Turner (William Turner). He converted them into a tavern named The Old Star and ensconced one of his mistresses in there to run it. To ensure his anonymity he went as far as assuming her surname “Booth” and soon became known in the area as “Puggy Booth” because of his short height and plumpness. The “Old Star” was refurbished in 1987 and renamed “Turner’s Old Star” in Turner’s honour.

A beautiful stroll along the Ornamental Canal leads us back to where it all started past the picturesque Dickens Inn to finally stop at the two elephants which stand on the pillars of the gate outside the only original warehouse standing in St Katharine Dock, Ivory House and convey our gratitude and say our goodbyes to Julia.

The Dickens Inn, St Katharine Dock

We turn back to re-enter the Dock. It’s lunchtime and there are a myriad of cafes, restaurants and pubs to choose from.

 

A Luxury Escape to Egypt

The Pyramids of Giza

The Pyramids of Giza and The Sphinx

Is Egypt a safe place to visit? Events of recent years ensured the country was not high on our list of countries to visit independently. A chance sighting of a newspaper advertisement spiked our interest and ultimately gave us an opportunity we had not previously considered.

We jumped at the chance and booked “The Sights of Egypt”: A 12 day Tour with a Nile River Cruise and International flights, a small group tour offered by Luxury Escapes.

The booking experience

Luxury Escapes teams with other travel brands and partners to negotiate and provide value-driven holiday packages. The online booking process was simple and easy to navigate providing comprehensive detail about the tour, availability, pricing, and information on inclusions and exclusions. However, this particular package not a last-minute special. To ensure our spaces were reserved, we booked and paid nine months in advance. Note: There is a “Book Now, Pay Later” option available for some packages.

A confirmation email was received with a follow-up email requesting passenger information from the booking agent. All further dealings related to our travel arrangements were conducted with Destination International Holidays, the booking agent responsible for our tour. We were provided with an opportunity to specify our preferred airline or a partner airline for flights and to upgrade our hotel accommodation at additional rates.

There was little interaction with Destination International Holidays. Having received no further communication after our initial booking correspondence, we phoned them a couple of months prior to make sure our travel was scheduled. They confirmed and assured us that we would receive travel information closer to our travel time.

Destination International forwarded travel documentation, a detailed itinerary with supporting information and an opportunity to add and pay for additional visits/tours (prices were cheaper than paying on site a few weeks prior to our departure.

The tour experience

Our small group tour catered for up to 16 people. We were very lucky to have only 8 people in our group. And, within a couple of days, we discovered that we were among like-minded people which added, for us, a new dimension to travelling on a tour.

We enjoy researching our destinations when travelling independently, educating ourselves on the local history and culture. On this tour, we were assigned not just a tour guide but a historian. Amir, who provided in-depth historical background behind all the sights, towns and cities we visited. In fact, he was a little annoyed whenever we got caught up with taking photos instead of listening to his commentary.

Instead of finding our own way from the airport to our accommodation, we were treated to exemplary service by being greeted at the airport, guided through the visa procedure and taken to our transport to our hotel and checked in.

Of course, we did not have to queue for admittance to the major sights and attractions.

Armed with advice from Amir, there was ample free time throughout the tour to explore cities independently and to join up for visits to the main sights. We were grateful to have the benefit of Amir’s expertise as he provided historical commentary and background throughout our visits to major sites. If we had been travelling independently, we would not have appreciated the historical significance behind so many of the places we visited.

The accommodation

We decided to take the premium accommodation option and were glad we did. Our accommodation in Cairo at the five-star Ramses Hilton right in the centre of Cairo. It provided us with an opportunity to explore life in central Cairo on our own, taste local cuisine and wander the back streets to see the real Cairo and its inhabitants.

Our accommodation in Alexandria was the historic Steigenberger Cecil Hotel. Situated on the scenic waterfront, we were treated with beautiful views of the Mediterranean, a walkway along the waterfront and markets and shops right outside the hotel door.

Our home for seven nights’ cruise was Princess Sarah II. While not as elegant as a few of the other upmarket riverboats we came across cruising the Nile, it was typical of many others plying up and down the River Nile. Our room was large and comfortable with a seating area allowing us to relax and watch life on the River. The top deck was well equipped with a swimming pool (although it was a little cool to swim in March), plenty of sunbeds and undercover seating to sit and watch the captivating scenery pass by. It was also the best place to watch the riverboat manoeuvre through the lock system and the daring hawkers attach their small sailing crafts to our riverboat to barter their wares to us.

The grand staircase of the Princess Sarah II

The grand staircase of the Princess Sarah II

DSCN6680

Hawkers touting their wares on the River Nile

The highlights

The Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx, Cairo – The last remaining of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the Pyramids are much bigger than we imagined and the Sphinx was much smaller than we had envisaged. We were grateful for having access to an Egyptologist who provided us with historical background about the Pyramids and how they were built; and guidance about which underground burial chambers we should climb down into.

The Karnak Temple of Amun, Luxor – This impressive temple complex was our introduction to the many temples in Egypt and one of the largest religious complexes in the world. Entering through the Avenue of Rams is spectacular as we catch sight of the huge pillars and obelisks. Walking among the magnificent columns of the Hypostyle Hall and learning about the meanings behind the hieroglyphics on each pillar was a highlight.

The Avenue of the Rams

The Avenue of the Rams

The Valley of the Kings, Luxor – Our visit commences early so we are treated to visiting the Valley when it is relatively empty. The three tombs we visit are well preserved and the inscriptions and vivid drawings on the walls take the breath away. Words cannot describe thousands of years of history and culture hidden in these underground treasures. Reliefs, frescoes and hieroglyphics line the walls into the main tomb areas and antechambers.

Sobek Temple, Kom Ombo – Our twilight visit to the Sobek Temple commenced with docking in Kom Ombo with a view of this beautiful hilltop temple. The temple precinct was teaming with both local and foreign tourists but a pleasant stop nonetheless. We enjoyed a little spare time following the temple visit wandering through the market stalls which lined the riverside dock.

The Great Temple of Ramses, Abu Simbel – Definitely worth rising at 3:30am for the 230km early morning drive on the desert sand road to the temple site on the banks of Lake Nasser. We are distracted by the beauty of the Lake as we walk toward the temple from the behind, totally oblivious of the enormity of what we are about to see. Turning the corner, four enormous statues of Ramses II appear before us sitting majestically at the entrance. Carved out of a mountain in 1264 BC, the whole complex was covered by shifting desert sands and its magnificence lost to the world until a Swiss explorer discovered it by chance in 1813 when he noticed the heads of the statues showing above the sand. Slowly uncovered, the temple complex was shifted 200 metres from its original position to higher ground under a large rescue mission involving more than 30 countries when the area was flooded to create the High Dam.

The verdict

The small group tour was a good way to undertake our first visit to Egypt. The country has undergone much upheaval since 2011 and this has affected tourism in the country. This is especially noticeable along the River Nile with many riverboats still lying idle along the banks. For us, this was an advantage. There were still many tourists about, mostly undertaking organised tours, although not as many as in the past or as is now expected as confidence in safety grows and travellers return to see the magnificence of Egypt’s ancient history.

As is usual on a bus tour, we were obliged to visit local craft and art stores in nearly every city we visited. There was no coercion by the store owners or tour directors to purchase.

For independent travellers such as ourselves used to straying away from the main tourist sights to explore, we found there was sufficient time available for us to go off and explore. The tour operators provided advice on how to conduct ourselves in this predominantly Muslim country, prepared us for the onslaught of hawkers whenever we stepped out on our own and gave general advice on staying safe. As in any country we visit, we were sensible about our safety and felt comfortable to move about on our own. However, for comfort and to enjoy the experience, we would advise female travellers to be accompanied or go out in a group.

Our conclusion: One of our fellow travellers when we asked him about what he thought about our “Luxury Escape” replied that “It was certainly a cheap escape”. We agree. The quality of accommodation, tour operators and our fellow travellers ensured we had an informative and enjoyable experience.

It was an economical introduction to a country with such a rich ancient history and feel that we have only just dipped our feet in the sand! We hope to visit again on another Luxury Escape.

And, if you are contemplating a visit to Egypt and would like to read more about our experiences and hints, you may find the following of interest:

Chaos in Cairo

Running the gauntlet in Edfu

12 things to know before visiting Egypt

Abu Simbel

The Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel

A secret village in Paris

Our accommodation is a little away from the centre of Paris on this visit, across the street from St Paul Village. It is within walking distance to all the iconic landmarks and gives us an opportunity to pretend to be Parisians and be tourists.

There is another village tucked away from the visitor’s gaze, Butte Bergeyre.

We set off early on a Saturday morning to find it. The streets are relatively empty apart from a few walkers like us getting an early start to the day. The city is quietly awakening.

A tourist stops us at the Place de Bastille to ask us whe Eiffel Tower is. It’s about an hour easy stroll. He decides it is too far to walk there. We hope he makes the effort to see it at some point in his visit!

Place de la Republique

Place de la Republique in the early morning light

Through Place de Republique and up the slight incline we walk taking in the change in scenery. Shop fronts are covered with grafitti covered roller doors so we can only imagine what is behind.

We pass by crowded clubs where patrons have spilled onto the street clasping onto the remnants of the night before. They are peacefully chatting and no one appears overly rowdy or intoxicated as they make way for us to pass by.

A little further on, the shop signs are written in Chinese. We are in Paris’ Chinatown district. The streets are still deserted, but we spot a couple of Chinese matrons taking their morning walk too.

Looking about us as we reach the top of the street, we notice that the atmosphere has once again changed. A boulangerie is opening up and also the local grocery store, large apartment building line Rue Mannin the street by the park which we have come to find.

Joggers run past us and the inhabitants of the area are out walking their dogs. We are looking for the steps at 21 Rue Mannin which are supposed to take us up to our destination.

Is it because we are so busy looking at everything else around us, or the fact that the steps are not obvious nor signposted that we walk straight past them? Or, that this is why Butte Bergeyre is a secret little spot.

We backtrack a little and climb the concrete steps to be greeted with narrow and empty cobblestoned streets lined with villas. Some are covered in ivy and others have their street frontage lined with flower pots. Not a soul is in sight as we quietly pick our way through the streets conscious of being the intruders in this haven for a select group of Parisians.

Butte Bergeyre

One of the villas in Butte Bergeyre

It is not hard to find the spot we have come searching for. At the far end of the small village we come to a well cultivated communal garden and the village vineyard which produces up to 100 bottles of Pinot Gris very year.

Butte Bergeyre

The pretty communal garden

We sit down on the perfectly positioned park bench and look out over the grapevines at the scenic view over Paris and the Sacre Couer.

Sacre Couer

Sacre Couer from the bench at the end of the village

How we got there – Butte Bergeyre is located in the 19th arrondissement. We walked there from Marais in the 4th arrondissement taking approximately 1 hour to get there, mostly because we were stopping along the way to observe our surroundings; take photos; and give a directions.

Another thing. On our way back, we also visited Cimitiere Pere Lachaise located in the 20th arrondissement. The beautiful garden cemetery is a tranquil sanctuary with rues of ornate tombs including Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison and Chopin.

Visiting Croatia? Be sure to include Zagreb in your itinerary

We clear Croatian border control and follow our trusty GPS, acres of fields and pastures flanking us on both sides of the road. The signage is clear and we continue our leisurely pace enjoying the scenery.

We know we are close to the city as the traffic becomes heavier but are surprised when the GPS suddenly comes to life, reminding us that our turn is up ahead. Why are we surprised? We have booked to stay in the centre of the city and there is no sign of city life even though the GPS tells us we are only a couple of kilometres from our destination!

“You have arrived at your destination on your right”, says the confident voice of the GPS as we pull up in front of a small farmhouse in the middle of nowhere. The address list is retrieved from the bag. Yes, we have plugged in the right address! If all else fails, enter the GPS coordinates and this confirms our suspicions; we are still another 30 minutes from our destination!

The Croatian capital city, Zagreb, is often bypassed by travellers who are lured to the popular cities of Split and Dubrovnik and an island or two off the coast for the ultimate Croatian experience.

We second guess ourselves as we drive into the city passing row upon row of utilitarian apartment buildings from the communist era. The roads are wide and easy to navigate but there doesn’t seem to be any old-world charm in sight.

Early impressions are quickly dispelled when a turn or two later, we are in the heart of Donji Grad, Zagreb’s historic Lower Town. Our host, “call me Porchca” is waiting to guide us into the no access area and into the apartment’s private parking area. We are not disappointed by our choice of accommodation, it is a spacious and cosy apartment just metres away from cafes and restaurants and beautiful green spaces. Bustling Jelacic Square is only a few hundred metres further.

Our highlights (in no particular order):

  • Enjoying outdoor music and activity in Park Zrinjevac, a beautiful green space in the Lower Town and just metres from our apartment which has been transformed into a night festival with food stalls and live music. No crowds and very family-friendly.

Park Zrinjevac

Summer festival in Park Zrinjevac

  • Watching international performers entertain larger audiences with classical concerts and dancing on the main stage in Jelacic Square.

Jelacic Square, Zagreb, Croatia

Evening entertainment in Jelacic Square

  • A morning walk to the expansive Maksimir Park in the middle of Zagreb through the streets and local markets peeking into doorways and shops along the way. An opportunity to observe the people of Zagreb go about their daily business. We remember a lovely older woman stopping to make sure we were okay as we tried to reorientate ourselves in a marketplace. She spoke no English and us, no Croatian.
  • An afternoon exploring Gornji Grad (Upper Town), strolling along the almost empty cobblestone streets and similarly empty St Mark’s Square allowing us to appreciate the beautiful St Mark’s Church and its multi-coloured tiled roof.

St Mark's Church, St Mark's Square, Gornji Grad, Zagreb,Croatia

St Mark’s Church with its distinctive tiled roof

  • People watching around the vibrant Dolac fruit and vegetable market.

Dolac Markets, Zagreb

The wonderful array of fresh produce at the markets

20180719_104440

  • A visit to the Museum of Broken Relationships. Set in a baroque palace in the Upper Town. The brainchild of a couple who remained friends after their own relationship had broken down, the couple started collecting anonymous donations of relics from Zagreb residents whose relationships had suffered a similar fate and created this interesting concept. Sounds a little quirky but well worth a visit.

Museum of Broken Relationships, Zagreb, Croatia

For a capital city, Zagreb still maintains a small-town feel and without the usual summer crush of tourists, we were able to wander about the Lower and Upper Towns freely.

All in all our time in Zagreb was a greater pleasure than Split or Dubrovnik.

P.S. – Our recommendations:

Located in the heart of the Lower Town, Apartment Atrium Plaza was the perfect place to stay. Newly renovated, clean and spacious, within walking distance of all attractions, numerous dining options outside the secure compound and superb hosts.

Exploring the streets a short distance from Park Zrinjevac, we found a wonderful place to have dinner. Heritage serves traditional Croatian food in the form of street food. Their menu offers the opportunity to try dishes from all the regions in Croatians accompanied by local wines and craft beers.

Have a spare day to kill? Take a day trip to the charming city of Ljubljana in Slovenia only two hours away by car and about the same by train. Explore the old city known for its beautiful bridges, green spaces, lively marketplace and Romanesque architecture. Then, take a leisurely drive back to Zagreb on the back roads which wind through some of the most picturesque scenery we have seen in Europe.

20180719_103959

You will love doing this one thing in Barcelona!

As they do in most European countries, the day started slowly. This is typical in summer when cities are buzzing with dining, theatre and music until the early hours.

We step out of our apartment just a few metres away to find Las Ramblas starting to come alive. The leafy promenade runs from Placa de Catalunya, the point where the old town and new town collide down to the Christopher Columbus monument at the port.  The beautiful plane trees conveniently shelter tourists from the strong summer sun. We hear many different languages being spoken around us, but not English!

We are intent on starting our Sunday exploring the back lanes and plazas of the Gothic Quarter before making our way Montjuic Hill for the afternoon. It’s a Sunday and expecting to see the quiet weekend life of the Catalunyian capital, we stroll down an alleyway off Las Ramblas stepping right into the middle of a melee. We see hundreds of people, some clambering on top of each other and while many crowded in groups and others around the perimeter of the square.

We are in Plaza Sant Jaume, the home of City Hall. During the week the plaza is buzzing with town officials going about the business of running this busy seaport city. Weekends, it seems, is for the residents of this vibrant Catalonian capital.

Often the scene for protests, today, residents are using the Plaza for another Catalunyian tradition – building castells or “castles”.

So what is this obsession with building castles?

Unique to the region of Catalunya, forming human castles began in the 18th century when they were built as part of religious festivities. At the end of the celebrations, people formed towers of three or four layers putting on a show to outdo the dancers.

Since the 1980’s, building human towers has become a sport and have grown so much in popularity that there are now competitions to build 9 or 10 tiers of people. The grand finale is a young child clambering up and over team members to raise his arm and four fingers, symbolising the four stripes in the Catalan flag at the top of the tower.

There are at least four teams competing today. Each team dressed in white with black sashes and colourful bandanas representing their allegiance and comradeship. We stand back to observe.

Some of these towers look fragile and precarious, looking as if they will collapse at any moment. However, none of the towers collapse. It is an example of extreme precision, teamwork and commitment with an element of trust involved.  Everyone contributes to the team’s success, from the heaviest to the lightest of participants. The base “pinya” consists of the strongest team members, they must be strong and powerful to form the firm base for the more agile and lighter team member who form tiers supporting others on their shoulders until the lightest climbs to the top. It is the team that forms the tower the quickest that wins.

The atmosphere in the plaza is one of intense concentration coupled with fun and laughter further intensified when the Mayor and his contingent appear on the balcony to watch the proceedings.

Barcelona offers much to the visitor: a colourful history; interesting and amazing architecture; museums and theatres; golden beaches; and a wonderful dining culture. If you want to experience the real Barcelona, do not miss a chance to watch the art of building castells next time you visit.

Looking for something else to do in Barcelona? Read about our day in Palau Guell and why we recommend spending some time there.

« Older posts Newer posts »

© 2024 Travelling Simply

Theme by Anders NorenUp ↑