Category: Spain (Page 1 of 6)

Days 33 and 34 of walking the full Camino de Santiago involved long distances. The route varied between forest paths and roadside tracks with moderate ascents. As we approached our final destination, lots of pilgrims filled the paths.

Day 33 – Portomarin to Palas de Rei

When we emerged from our hotel to start our walking day, the air was cool, and there was fog. Both accompanied us for a couple of hours as we navigated the forest paths passing through the small village of Castromaior and continued to walk uphill gradually.

When we finally reached the hillside pastures, the fog cleared, revealing a beautiful blue sky. Pillows of clouds hung over the valley below.

Pilgrims on the trail

There continued to be plenty of walkers on the trail from Portomarin. Many walked hurriedly past us, including Louise, who had found a new walking partner. We continued at our pace, ensuring our legs didn’t tire. As the morning wore on, we found we had caught up and passed most of the pilgrims who had rushed past us earlier. It was then that we found times of quiet and could enjoy the scenery.

Conversations on The Way

There are moments while walking the full Camino de Santiago when you connect with fellow pilgrims and share the journey, comparing experiences along the way. A short distance outside of the hamlet of Ligonde, we heard a familiar accent from one of the two women walking ahead of us.

A “Buen Camino” greeting initiated the conversation. Wendy, from Western Australia, was on her first visit to Europe and, like us, had started her Camino in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Her walking companion, a Hungarian and an English teacher, was practicing her English while sharing lessons on European history as they walked. Both had begun their journey at 5:30 am and were in no hurry.

Palas de Rei

With a population of under 1000 inhabitants, Palas de Rei is principally a farming town, but despite the agricultural surroundings, the walk into the town was scenic. Our arrival was well-timed. Our accommodation was right on the trail, so we called in to see if our luggage had arrived before continuing to have lunch in town.

The Camino de Santiago trail winds through the town, which provides excellent facilities for pilgrims. Many walkers were on the town’s main street when we stopped for lunch before returning to settle into our accommodation.

We found our Australian and Hungarian ladies at the supermarket. Since we had left them earlier in the day, they had collected another companion, a young acupuncturist from Korea. They had found an albergue to stay the night in and finished their Pilgrim’s Meal (Menu del Peregrino).

Apart from the main street, there was little else to see in the town, so we passed some time wandering through the supermarket looking at the different Spanish products and bought a nice bottle of local wine before returning to our accommodation to shower and settle in.

A relaxed afternoon and evening

Our room in the bed and breakfast was small (more about our accommodation below), but we managed to find space to complete our yoga and stretching before showering. Feeling refreshed, we headed downstairs to enjoy some time on the lovely patio. The temperature was more pleasant than the evening before in Portomarin.

Our three hosts sat at one end of the large outdoor table quietly chatting while stringing fresh beans from their garden. Kiwifruit hung from the vine-covered roof of the patio above us. We sat at the other end, enjoying the gentle hum of their voices over a glass of wine and journaled.

Our evening meal was at a restaurant around the corner. It was early evening, so we were the first diners to arrive at A Reloxeria. It wasn’t long before the other tables filled with locals. The restaurant’s attentive staff warmly welcomed us into their casually decorated restaurant.

They then proceeded to serve us our dinner. We had a well-presented and flavourful meal starting with a cheese and charcuterie platter, followed by a greens salad including sundried tomato, nuts, berries, and cheese, then a main of spinach and prawns with scrambled eggs. Walnut ice cream accompanied the Santiago cake, completing our meal.

Our evening ended with a relaxed hour lying in bed watching some Netflix on our tablet.

Our accommodation

One of our lovely hosts ushered us into our lodgings when we arrived. The living room where she greeted us and completed formalities was exquisitely decorated and set the scene for what was to come.

The charming stone house, Casa Leopoldo, is owned by three sisters. Their niece (who speaks English) welcomed and ushered us up the stairs to our room. We couldn’t help but look up and linger over the frescoed wallpaper on the ceilings. There are six en-suite bedrooms upstairs.

Our room was small but tastefully decorated, offering all that we needed. Additionally, we had access to a beautiful living room and patio. Our delicious breakfast the following morning was sitting in the warm and cosy kitchen at the large communal table.

While we heard other guests arrive after we went to bed, we didn’t meet them as we had breakfast and left before them the next morning.

Walking statistics

• 26km
• 7 hours, including a rest break

Day 34 – Palas de Rei to Arzua

We were up at 6:00 am to prepare for a long day of walking.

Our day started at Casa Leopold’s large kitchen table, where we were served a delicious breakfast by our hosts, who must have been up at the crack of dawn to prepare the array of breakfast offerings.

While there was much on offer, we filled up on Casa Leopold’s speciality, Pilgrim’s Eggs (poached egg over mashed potato and caramelised onions), toast served with local butter and homemade jam, finished with fresh fruit (watermelon, bananas, oranges and kiwifruit). The homemade cake looked appealing, but we were too full to partake.

On the road to Arzua

Bidding our wonderful hosts farewell from the house’s cosiness, we stepped out into a cold and cloudy day to start walking to Arzua. Our raincoats provided extra protection against the cold, and we were warm inside from the hot breakfast.

Again, there are plenty of pilgrims leaving Palas de Rei with us. Before long, we walked along forest tracks, through a village and were right back into the forest again. About 90 minutes into our walking day, the clouds cleared.

There’s a fair amount of steep climbing and descending, but without the rocks, the hike isn’t as challenging as some of our earlier days of walking the full Camino de Santiago.

Leboreiro

The landscape flattened out, and we walked along paths lined with eucalyptus trees before arriving in Leboreiro. From the 11th to the 13th centuries, this town was a major stop for Camino pilgrims. As we passed, there was no sign of its popularity or inhabitants..

Melide

A four-arched medieval bridge, Puente de San Xoan, led us into and through another small village, Furelos, and into the outskirts of Melide.

In contrast to Leboreiro and Furelos, Melide was buzzing and busy. Despite it being a Sunday morning, the town centre was busy. Families were gathered at cafes, queues formed outside bakeries, pavements were crowded, and traffic flowed along the streets. Peregrinos added to the hustle and bustle.

Pulpo in Melide

Melide has a reputation for its Galician-style pulpo (grilled octopus). A duo from the first pulpería we passed offered us morsels of their pulpo to entice us into their restaurant for a meal. Our Korean trainee priest was outside the restaurant with one of his walking companions, waiting for a table to become free.

Unlike many of our fellow pilgrims inside enjoying their plates of octopus, we decided 10:30 am was a little early to stop for a meal. Instead, we bought a couple of bananas and ate them at a cafe on the main street, watching the Sunday activity.

Lunch in Boente

The trail continued up and down rolling hills and forest trails with more horreos to look at along the way. Our lunch stop was roadside in the small hamlet of Boenta, an hour away from Arzua.

Arzua

Arzua is famous for its dairy products, particularly its cheese. When we arrived in the town centre in the early afternoon, locals and pilgrims were enjoying lunch together at the cafes and restaurants along the main street.

We were overjoyed to see Mr Blue Singlet sitting at an outdoor cafe. We hadn’t seen him since Leon. As we passed, we got the impression he wanted to say something, however, we just ended up acknowledging each other as we continued.

A retreat in Arzua

Because our hotel in Arzua was outside of town, we had further to walk than most other pilgrims. Although the accommodation offered free transfers from the Camino trail, it was only a short distance, so we decided to walk.

A further 30 minutes through the town’s back streets brought us to our country retreat. It was 3:00 pm and we had been walking for 7.5 hours. As we arrived through the gates, we immediately knew we would enjoy our stay.

After settling into our room and feeling refreshed, we began exploring the beautiful rural property. The outdoor patio offered stunning views over the pastures. Unfortunately, the evening air was too cool to stay outside for long, so we decided to retreat inside to the lounge of the historic main building.

An enchanting evening in Arzua

The early evening was spent relaxing with our journals and conversing with the manager, who told us the hotel’s history over a nice bottle of local wine with nuts and potato chips.

Dinner at 7:00 pm is in a stone building across from the lounge. It is early, and because many guests are not pilgrims, we have the restaurant almost to ourselves. We enjoyed a delicious meal (the best on the Camino route). Our meal consists of an entree of hummus on mini bread, pumpkin soup, cheese and tomato salad, cod with potatoes and vegetables, and vegetable rice with soy sauce. The desserts are delectable tiramisu and cheesecake made with Arzua cheese and ice cream.

Our accommodation

Arriving at the beautiful rural property on which Pazo Santa Maria is located, a couple of kilometres from central Arzua, was a pleasant surprise.

The hotel complex features separate stone buildings, encouraging guests to explore the property and enjoy the beautiful rolling countryside beyond. The main building, which houses the reception and lounge areas, is the original farmhouse built in 1749.

Our room was spacious, featuring a very comfortable bed and luxurious Italian bathroom amenities that were greatly appreciated. As was the overnight laundry service they offered.

Both meals, dinner and breakfast, were above our expectations. The restaurant was cosy and inviting, and the staff were very attentive. We noticed coins set into the small crevices between the stones throughout the restaurant. The staff told us it was customary for guests to make a wish and leave a coin in an unoccupied crevice. We did too!

Highlights of Days 33 and 34 walking the full Camino de Santiago

Interactions with fellow pilgrims can often be short while walking the full Camino de Santiago. Some may be just in passing, while others can continue over days as we each continue at our own pace. It was always heartening to see walkers, like Mr Blue Singlet, that we thought we would never see again, and there was comfort in realising that they too had noticed us on the trail.

We had grown accustomed to the different types of accommodations where our overnight stays had been pre-booked. Each was a sanctuary and welcomed by us, especially after the days when the walk had been long and arduous.

Our overnight stays in Palas de Rei and Arzúa were delightful, and the welcomes and interactions with our hosts, despite the language barriers, left us with pleasant and lasting memories.

Walking statistics

• 30km
• 7.5 hours, including two rest breaks

Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?

The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.

Follow our 38-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.

Walking the Full Camino – Days 1 and 2 – St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles and Roncesvalles to Akaretta

A short walking day took us to the hilltop town of Sarria. It’s the most popular starting point for pilgrims who want to experience the Camino and wish to earn their Compostela Certificate. Our final days walking the full Camino de Santiago were about to change!

Day 31 – Samos to Sarria

In anticipation of a short walking day, we enjoyed a leisurely start. Breakfast was as delicious and plentiful as dinner the previous evening.

As we left Samos, the air was cool, the skies grey, and spots of rain fell. Within an hour, though, the skies had cleared. We meandered along forest and bush trails between small villages, then along paths beside meadows and pastures with an odd house here and there.

We caught up and passed a trio of Dutch or German women chatting amicably as they walked, and then a Japanese lady wearing knee supports on both knees. We had seen her in Samos the evening before. She was struggling to maintain a pace even with hiking poles. Slowing down to her pace, we chatted with her. She had been walking the Camino trail for nearly six weeks, her Camino considerably slowed after she injured her knees in Pamplona.

A short and pleasant walking day ended with us arriving in Sarria before lunch. Our hotel room was ready, and with a couple of hours before our bags arrived, we set out to explore.

Exploring Sarria

Our route took us to the High Street, much like any other in the lower town, before we made our way up to the Mirador (lookout) in the old upper town. Our guidebook noted the amazing views of the Sarria township and countryside from there. Unfortunately, the views were obstructed by overgrowth

Moving swiftly along, we arrived at the top of Calle Mayor, the old town’s main street. It’s a lovely street to amble up or down and have a meal at one of the cafes that line the street. While we accessed the street and the Mirador from the slightly more graduated streets from the back, there is more direct access from the lower town. Be prepared for an uphill walk.

At the top of Calle Mayor is the castle tower. This is all that remains of the castle. Our guidebook told us that the stones from the 14th-century castle were used to pave the town’s walkways.

With our sightseeing exhausted, we returned to the hotel where our luggage had arrived, allowing us to freshen up.

An evening in Sarria

Once refreshed, we went across the small riverway to window shop on the High Street, then enjoy a glass of wine and journal before returning to the hotel’s bar for another beverage while waiting for the hotel restaurant to open at 8:00 pm.

We were the only customers in the bar, and the young bartender was keen to converse in English. He told us he was born in Puerto Rico and had moved to Spain nine years earlier with his parents. His father was an artisan instrument maker specialising in Spanish guitars. He was working to save money for further studies.

Two young pilgrims from Germany and Albania joined us for dinner in the dining room. They had begun their Camino journey in Astorga. We all enjoyed a delicious meal together. The entrée featured scrambled eggs with mushrooms and shrimp, followed by dorade fish served with mashed potatoes as the main course. For dessert, we had a local speciality: chestnut cake. Most Spaniards like to dine late, so even at 8:00 pm, we were the only diners in the restaurant.

Our accommodation

Our overnight stay was at Hotel Alfonso IX. The hotel is in the lower town, close to all amenities, on the Camino path and a short distance from the old town. The rooms are comfortable and spacious.

As mentioned above, our evening meal was exceptional, and the breakfast choices were plentiful and equally delicious.

Walking statistics

• 14km
• 3 hours

Day 31 – Sarria to Portomarin

The hotel breakfast offered plenty of choices. We settled for muesli with fresh fruit salad, toast with tomato paste (a typical Spanish breakfast), and cheese finished with melon and sweet pineapple to fuel us for a 22km walking day.

We left the hotel at 7:40 a.m., and a steady line of pilgrims accompanied us over the bridge and up the Calle Mayor leading out of the old town.

To earn a pilgrim’s certificate, the church recognises the final 100km from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela as completion of a Camino. For this reason, many pilgrims commence their Camino from Sarria.

A party on the Camino trail

It’s common for young Spanish people to walk this final route during their summer vacation so they can include the completion of the Camino de Santiago on their CVS. This valuable addition improves their chances of securing a position after finishing university.

Only after walking for 20 minutes did we realise how busy the rest of the Camino would be. The path had become congested with groups of walkers oblivious to the other pilgrims around them. Others stepped out of cars and buses on the road to join the train of pilgrims. It was noticeably noisier!

The new pilgrims were easily identifiable with their brand-new shoes and immaculate clothing.

Other pilgrims we talked with later in the day, who had been walking the full Camino de Santiago from earlier starting points, felt aggrieved that the solitude of the past few weeks had suddenly disappeared.

The path to Portomarin

It would be fair to say that the scenery on the path to Portomarin could be described as “urban countryside”, alternating between tarmac and forest paths leading through small villages.

New additions to the landscape attracted our attention. Small raised houses seemed to be everywhere, in the fields and backyards. They’re called horreos (stone granaries) used to store grain, feed for livestock and household goods. Nearly all were decorated with symbols. Horreos protect their contents from rodents and the damp ground.

Not long before reaching the bridge crossing the river into Portomarin, the path provided two options: the long or the short way. Eager to arrive, we followed a group on the shorter path. The last section of the short route was unbelievably steep and rocky. The two paths rejoined just before the bridge.

Portomarin

Portomarin has origins dating back to Roman times, and until 1950, the entire town was situated lower than its current location. The town’s buildings, some from medieval times, were submerged when a dam and reservoir were constructed.

Before crossing the bridge, we paused to ring the Liberty Bell, a tradition among pilgrims, and to explore the ruins of the old town. When the dam waters are low, you can see remnants of the original town as you cross the bridge into the new town. Not all buildings were lost to the underwater world; several important structures, including two churches, were dismantled and relocated to the new town on higher ground.

Across the bridge, we faced one last climb up the steps of the old bridge before being greeted by the town’s sign.

Exploring Portomarin

Portomarin is a pretty little town with pathways lining both sides of the main street, which has plenty of shops, restaurants and cafes for pilgrims. We enjoyed a light lunch in one across the road from a hostel where many young pilgrims were already lined up waiting to grab a bed for the night.

Hostels or albergues, as they are called on the Camino, are widely used by walkers. Offering simple overnight lodgings at minimal cost, this type of accommodation provides pilgrims with flexibility in their daily walking distances. Accommodation is provided on a first-come, first-served basis. If the hostel at your preferred overnight destination is fully booked, you’ll need to walk further to the next town or return to the last town you passed to try your luck.

Our pre-booked accommodation was at the far end of the town, which we checked into after lunch. Settled in, we returned to the township to have a closer look around. With not much else to see in the town, we peeked inside one of the relocated churches to find a rather austere interior before returning to enjoy a glass of wine at our lunch cafe.

Too cold to stay out for long, we retreated to our hotel for a further pre-dinner beverage while we journaled. Fellow pilgrim, Louise from Belgium, arrived; she had been swimming in the pool. Brrr, too cold for us! She joined us for dinner.

Our accommodation

Our stay in Portomarin was at Pousada de Portomarin, a government-funded inn. Plenty of space in our comfortable room allowed us to do our stretches and yoga without the cramped surroundings of some of the other places we had stayed in.

Dinner in the hotel’s restaurant featured traditional Galician dishes: soup, salads, fish stew, stuffed chicken breast, and a dessert of Portomarin almond cake.

Walking statistics

• 26km
• 5 hours

Want to walk the full Camino de Santiago?

Contemplating walking the full Camino de Santiago? Let us tell you more here.

And, if you’d like to read about our wonderful experience, read our chronology from Day 1.