A scheduled rest day in elegant Leon was a treat. It gave us time to look around and absorb the unique atmosphere of this little-known treasure in northern Spain. We continued walking the full Camino de Santiago on Day 24 arriving in the tiny town of Villar de Mazarife for an overnight stay before continuing to the old Roman city of Astorga.
Day 23 – A rest day from walking the full Camino de Santiago
Although eager to see more of the beautiful city of Leon, we indulged ourselves with a leisurely start to our day. The service at breakfast was better than the evening before. Our evening waiter was back on duty but this time he had assistance.
A day off from the trail allowed us to catch up on our laundry and with that chore complete we dedicated the remainder of the day to exploring the city.
A visit to the morning markets in Plaza Mayor
Our first stop was in Plaza Mayor which had transformed into colourful fruit and vegetable markets for the morning. We spent time looking at the abundance of fresh produce on offer.
We next walked to Plaza de Santa Santo Domingo where we booked an early evening guided tour of the Palacio de los Guzmanes. The Palacio stands prominently next to Gaudi’s equally impressive Casa Botines.
A train tour around Leon’s old town
With plenty of time to spare, we bought tickets and hopped on the tourist train for a more informed tour of the old town. As the train set off we found that the commentary was conducted only in Spanish and French so we both pulled out our phones to follow the commentary through Google Translate.
Despite not having an English-speaking description, the train ride was informative and gave a thorough overview of this city. The city has much to offer within and outside the old city walls. The train took us to the other side of the Cathedral to see the more intact city walls and the other city portal.
The newer part of the city, accessed from Plaza de Santo Domingo, is outside the old city walls. With its spectacular fountain, it’s as captivating as the old town, with stunning buildings lining the Gran Via de San Marcos.
An afternoon in Leon
After the train tour, we strolled to the city portal before moving on to Plaza San Isidoro hoping to look inside the Basilica. Our guidebook mentioned it was worth a visit. Unfortunately, the Basilica was closed so we continued to the Parque de El Cid. It’s a quiet space a few steps away and a good place to retreat from the heat for a breather. We also took the opportunity to visit the square with the statue of King Alfonso IX who ruled as the King of Leon until he died in 1230.
A guided tour of Palacio de los Guzmanes
We found ourselves in the entrance hall of the Palacio with a dozen other tourists before the tour began at 5:15 pm. All the other attendees were Spanish and while the guide spoke to us in English she advised that the tour would be in Spanish. Our phones came out again and Google Translate came in handy. A kind Spanish man who spoke English filled the gaps as we went.
Since 1882, Palacio de los Guzmanes has been the seat of the Leonese Provincial Government. The mansion was built in the 16th century for the Guzmans, a noble family, to display their wealth and power and impress their enemies.
The tour started in the courtyard leading from the entrance before proceeding up a formal staircase to the upper gallery. The upper gallery is the most impressive floor of the building. Archways enclosed by windows embedded with stained glass features overlook the courtyard below.
The best was saved for last when we were led into the wood-panelled Government chambers with its walls covered in beautiful tapestries.
Casa Botines
The other important building in Plaza de Santo Domingo is the Gaudi-designed Casa Botines. Completed in 1894, the building was initially used as a department store specialising in textiles and then housed the Caja Espana bank. In 2017, it was reopened as an exhibition space displaying Gaudi’s architecture and works by other artists. Outside the building, is a photo opportunity with the distinguished architect, a bench seat with a sculpture of Gaudi for visitors to sit beside.
An evening in Leon
After the one-hour tour of the Palacio had finished, we rewound our way to Plaza Mayor. The square had been cleared of the morning’s market stalls and lunchtime crowds so we could admire the colonaded buildings surrounding the open space. Built between 1654 and 1677, it is one of the oldest in Spain.
The main building in the square is El Mirador, the Town Hall. These days it houses offices for other businesses with the local government utilising it only for official ceremonies and celebrations.
Many bars, restaurants and taverns can be found in the square and the surrounding streets. We sat down for a relaxed hour at an outdoor table in one of the square’s bars enjoying pre-dinner aperitifs. Pizzas accompanied by local wine completed our evening in the next street where our table continued to allow us to see activity in the square.
Our conclusion
Leon is a virtual art museum comprising Baroque buildings, outstanding monuments, churches, the Cathedral and well-dressed city dwellers.
The city is a hidden gem which isn’t given great importance in travel guides. Apart from the obvious Camino pilgrims, we found no evidence of other foreign tourists apart from Spain during our stay. Our stay was very authentic and we were glad to have decided to stay the extra night in the city.
Day 24 – Leon to Villar de Mazarife
Parador de Leon
We left Leon after our hearty hotel breakfast following the yellow markers on the pavement. Leaving the city, we walked past the Convento San Marco. The impressive building was built in the 12th century as a convent and hospital for pilgrims. Today, as a Parador the historic building continues to cater for pilgrims and tourists in its modern hotel accommodation surrounded by art collections and frescoed ceilings.
The road to Villar de Mazarife
Some nine kilometres later following a carefree young pilgrim with a feather in his hat, we reached the city’s outskirts with small settlements dotted through the countryside.
More bodegas tucked into the hillsides along the trail provided our only distraction. The walk became boring and monotonous with nothing else to amuse us than the young feathered fellow ahead. He soon disappeared when we stopped at a bench in a little town for a rest and to have our bananas.
After climbing a steep rise following our break, open pastures appeared again. We felt we were the only ones on the trail until we caught up with a steady stream of pilgrims close to Villar de Mazarife.
Villar de Mazarife
The quaint little town of Villar de Mazarife (pop 360) welcomed us with a beautiful roadside mural at the entrance.
Our overnight accommodation Tio Pepe was close to the middle of the town across from the church. The church’s courtyard has a lovely statue of a tired pilgrim looking over the road ahead.
Young fellow pilgrim, Louise emerged from Tio Pepe as we were about to enter. Looking hot, tired and distressed. Her accommodation was another 6km away and she was experiencing knee pain. We handed over one of the braces we carried in our day pack in anticipation of knee injuries we might experience to assist with her final leg.
Almost every day, if we were walking close to the road, we saw the van transporting our luggage pass by and felt reassured that our two suitcases would be waiting for us at our destination. This was the first time we arrived before our bags.
Fortunately, we were ready for lunch which we enjoyed in the sunny covered courtyard where we were the only guests. Our bags arrived not long after and when we emerged after freshening up, a sole guest was having lunch in the courtyard and he wasn’t a pilgrim. Over a Google Translate conversation, we learnt he was from the beautiful town of Avila not far from Madrid holidaying at his country home close to Villar de Mazarife. The tranquillity of being in the countryside and tending his garden in his country home brings him back several times a year. He lunched at Tio Pepe daily.
An afternoon and evening in Villar de Mazarife
Refreshed, we set out to explore the town. The streets were deserted but noises came from the open windows of the roadside houses. A pretty park is the only highlight and our exploring takes less than 30 minutes before we return to relax in our room over another episode of The Crown.
Cooler evening temperatures enticed us back into the courtyard shade to write in our journals sipping our daily complimentary bottle of local wine.
As evening drew in, the courtyard filled with pilgrims staying at the other albergue in town. The bar and restaurant are known for their excellent and well-priced “menu del dia”.
We were surprised to see Canadian Camille arrive and invited her to join us at our table. We had expected that she would have walked ahead of us by a day. She told us she had succumbed to her cold symptoms and stayed an extra night in Leon to recover. Amid the quiet hum of conversations around us, she confided her reason for walking the Camino de Santiago. The time walking allowed her to contemplate her long-term future. Her partner is 76 years old and she 40.
Our accommodation
Meson Tio Pepe offers private and dorm-style accommodation for pilgrims on the Camino. The building is over 70 years old and is a typical traditional Meseta house.
Our private room, accessed from the enclosed courtyard was small but functional. As mentioned above, we spent most of our evening enjoying the space in the quiet courtyard until after dinner.
Walking statistics
- 23km
- 5.5 hours including a rest break
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.
Follow our 38-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.
