Each of Croatia’s islands is beautiful and unique. Each offers a different experience. After you finish the highlights of the Croatian mainland, consider visiting Mljet, Croatia’s “greenest” island for a retreat.
Why you should visit Mljet
Mljet, Croatia’s southernmost island, is the place to go if you’re looking for a peaceful break surrounded by nature, forests and lakes.
Visiting Mljet, Croatia’s “greenest” island
It’s a crowd-free alternative to Croatia’s busier, more vibrant islands. Imagine unspoilt nature, gentle walks, bike rides, and swimming at quiet beaches and beautiful lakes.
Mljet is a perfect day trip from the busy Dubrovnik. It’s an easy ferry ride from the mainland.
Our visit to Mljet National Park
Our yacht slipped into the small settlement of Pomena in Mljet National Park. We had left Dubrovnik early, before breakfast, giving us the morning to enjoy activities on the island before sailing on.
Arriving in Pomena Harbour
Several other yachts were already docked in the port. The port is one of the closest entrances to the National Park.
The best things to do in Mljet National Park
Mljet National Park is best known for its two turquoise saltwater lakes and the Church of St Mary and Benedictine Monastery, which dates back to 1151 and sits in the middle of the larger lake.
A short 20-minute walk from the port along a paved forest path, then a gravel path brings you to where the two saltwater lakes meet.
Swim in the lakes
Swimming in Mljet’s turquoise lakes
The national park has a few swim spots. When we arrived, people were already swimming in the clear turquoise waters of the lakes. A small bridge gives walkers and cyclists access to the two lakes from above, and swimmers access both from below.
The bridge connecting Mljet National Park’s two saltwater lakes
Hire a bicycle
Mljet National Park is a great place to cycle around. The paths looping around the park are well signed, letting you enjoy the natural surroundings at a quicker pace.
We noticed it was cheaper to rent the bikes at the port than at the lakeside vendor. The only downside with renting at the port is having to take the bike up the pathway to reach the lakeside bike trail.
Take a hike
We decided to take a hike around the lakes. The hike (more like a walk) followed the cycle path around the lakes, and we had it almost to ourselves.
A 45-minute anti-clockwise walk from the bridge between the lakes takes you along a path to one of the closest points to the small island where the Church of St Mary and Monastery are situated. You’ll be surrounded by lush greenery all the way.
St Mary’s Church and Monastery
There is also a ferry taxi service/restaurant at this point
For other walking and hiking options on Mljet, see this post.
Take a ferry ride on the lake
A ferry on the lake
Take a ferry ride on the lake and visit St Mary and the Monastery on the island. While we didn’t have time to visit, our readings informed us that the small church is serene and quiet, and the Monastery gardens are equally tranquil.
Explore Pomena
The charming small settlement of Pomena
The small settlement of Pomena is home to around 50 full-time inhabitants. The numbers swell in the summer months. We found the port and bay area compact and quiet. It was a nice place to sit and watch the comings and goings in the harbour before we re-boarded our yacht after we walked around the lakes.
Our conclusion
Unspoilt natural beauty and tranquillity are the key features of spending time on Mljet and in the National Park.
Our time on the island was short and limited because of windy weather preventing our yacht from sailing to Mljet the previous day. However, our morning exploring the National Park gave us insight into an island remarkably different from most popular Croatian islands which draw tourists.
If you love nature, enjoy hiking and prefer quiet, laid-back evenings by the water, then you’ll love visiting Mljet, Croatia’s “greenest” island.
Mljet is the perfect Croatian island if you enjoy nature, like hiking and prefer quiet, laid-back evenings by the water.
In case you’re interested
We took the opportunity to experience the Croatian islands and coastline on a week-long sailing on a small ship. It was the perfect way to see and enjoy more of each unique island. Read more through the link below.
Most tourists come to see Dubrovnik’s captivating UNESCO Heritage-listed Old Town. However, they leave without seeing the city’s other highlights. We share the best things to do when visiting Dubrovnik.
A short history
Roman refugees founded Dubrovnik (then called Ragusa) in the 7th century. It has passed through many hands, becoming the city it is today.
The city was under Byzantine and Venetian rule. Later it achieved self-rule as a major maritime power.
A major earthquake in the 17th century, followed by French occupation, then Austrian rule, before it was incorporated into Yugoslavia until its breakup.
The best things to do when visiting Dubrovnik
Franjo Tudman Bridge Lookout
On our first visit to Dubrovnik, we drove over the striking Dr Franjo Tudman Bridge. Named after the first President of modern Croatia, the cable-stayed bridge contrasts with Dubrovnik’s Old Town and all you would imagine of Dubrovnik.
The fjord-like waterway of Rijeka as seen from the bridge
On our second visit, we took asmall-ship cruise; on a tour, we drove to the lookout on the far side of the bridge. From the lookout, you can enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Gruz Harbour, the port and Rijeka Dubrovacka.
Views of the bridge and harbour from the lookout
The dramatic mountain scenery and views down the inlet to the city’s marina show just how vast and varied this city is.
Vidikovac Lookout and Viewpoint of Dubrovnik and scenic walk Bosanka on Mt Srd
The top of Mt Srd undoubtedly provides the best views over Dubrovnik Old Town. We drove up and walked the Bosanka area on our first visit to Dubrovnik. If you are in Dubrovnik without transport, you can take a four-minute cable car ride up to the top.
View of Dubrovnik Old Town
On the drive up to the Mt Srd Lookout, you can stop at a couple of other viewpoints: Vidikovac Lookout and Viewpoint of Dubrovnik. Both offer equally stunning, close-up views of the Old Town.
Spend a day or two in Dubrovnik Old Town
Dubrovnik’s Old Town (the Pearl of the Adriatic) is the city’s draw card. A visit to Dubrovnik isn’t complete without walking through the Pile Gate into the magical world of a well-preserved medieval Old Town.
Walking through the famous Pile Gate
The Old Town, severely damaged during the 1667 earthquake and, more recently, extensive shelling in the breakup of Yugoslavia in the 1990s, has been restored under UNESCO.
Walk the City Walls
We’ve walked the walls on two visits to Dubrovnik, and nothing is more spectacular than looking down over the terracotta rooftops, into the town’s streets, and over the Adriatic Sea.
Looking out over the Old Town from the city walls
While walking the 2km stretch of walls, look out for:
The Stradun, the town’s main street. It’s the first thing you’ll see from the Wall.
Fort Lovrijenac (St Lawrence), the fortress, on a rocky cliff face across the water on the western side of the City Walls. It is known as The Keep in the Game of Thrones television series.
Views of Lokrum Island.
Watchtowers that appear at intervals as you walk on the walls. They’re perfect for photo opportunities.
Dubrovnik Harbour.
Evidence of daily life. The Old Town is home to some Dubrovnik citizens. You’ll find washing hanging on lines, pretty private gardens and balconies and maybe even a glimpse inside homes. It is important to show consideration and respect their privacy.
Minceta Tower, the main and largest tower on the wall. Make the effort to climb the steps to the Tower; it’s the highest point on the walls and worth it to capture the best views over the Old Town.
Walking along the city walls is a must-do and a highlight of the Old Town.
Views from the walls over the terracotta rooftops
A few things to remember
The route around the walls is anti-clockwise.
Set aside a couple of hours to savour the views and walk the walls at your own pace. Rest or enjoy the breathtaking views over a beverage or snack at one of the cafes or bars on the wall.
The walls are exposed to the elements. It can be cold and windy in the winter or very hot in the summer.
The path can be uneven; wear comfortable shoes.
Purchase a Dubrovnik Pass. The Pass includes the walls, free public transport and museum entrances for the same price as a ticket to walk the city walls.
Visit the Franciscan Monastery and Pharmacy
Entrance to the church nave in the Monastery close to the Pile Gate is free. Many people miss the Monastery and Pharmacy and go straight to the Rector’s Palace.
Inside the Franciscan Monastery Pharmacy
However, there is more to experience. The Dubrovnik Pass includes entrance to the Monastery Museum, a beautiful 14th-century Romanesque cloister with its archways and frescoes and the Monastery’s famed Pharmacy, which has been part of the Monastery since 1317.
Experience the tranquillity of the cloister
The Monastery is original, having survived the earthquake, and the cloister leaves a lasting impression.
Set aside 30-60 minutes for a visit.
Stroll Stradun Promenade
Originally a marshy sea channel, Stradun is one of Europe’s most well-known pedestrian streets. Strolling down this 300-metre polished limestone street connecting the Pile Gate to Dubrovnik Harbour feels special.
Elegant Stradum Promenade
Entering through the Pile Gate, the historic 15th-century circular Onofrio Fountain is the first attraction to catch your attention. Named after its Italian architect, this famous landmark has supplied water to the city for centuries through an aqueduct system which transported water from 12km away. A modern water supply system was installed in the late 19th century. However, the fountain still functions, supplying fresh drinking water to visitors to the Old City.
Onofrio Fountain
You’ll find a smaller fountain, also designed by Onofrio, tucked into a niche in the wall at the harbour end of Stradun. Few people notice it as they hustle past on their way to the harbour or the Rector’s Palace.
The smaller Orlando fountain can easily be missed
Visit inside the Rector’s Palace
The Rector’s Palace is one of the most visited sites in Dubrovnik’s Old Town. Built in the 15th century, the Palace was the official seat of the Rector who ruled the Republic of Ragusa.
The elegant staircase and archways in the courtyard of the Rector’s Palace
The main features are the Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture, striking staircase and ornate columns. The building now houses the Cultural-Historical Museum of Dubrovnik.
The Dubrovnik Pass includes entrance.
Walk up the Jesuit staircase
The famous Baroque staircase, modelled on Rome’s Spanish Steps, leads you up from Gundulić Square to the Church of St Ignatius Square.
The famous Jesuit Staircase
If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, you’ll know the staircase as the Walk of Shame.
The steps have always been a photo hot spot, but they’re more popular because they featured in the show. Be prepared to share your space with plenty of others.
Cathedral and Treasury
Have a look inside Dubrovnik Cathedral (Also known as the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary). The original Romanesque Cathedral, built in the 12th century, was destroyed in the 1667 earthquake, and the Baroque building that replaced it stands on the site today.
Visiting the Cathedral is free and worth it to view the artwork. There is a small charge (not included in the Dubrovnik Pass) to visit the Treasury to view the artefacts and other relics.
Stroll the lanes and alleyways and harbour
One of our favourite things to do within the walls of Dubrovnik Old Town was strolling the numerous lanes and alleyways.
Plenty of cafes, restaurants, souvenir shops, and boutiques are there to stop at as you wander.
Wandering the streets and alleys – one of our favourite things to do in Dubrovnik
Most of the buildings and the streets have been repaired after suffering intense shelling during the siege in the early 1990’s. However, keep an eye out for a few remaining bullet holes and evidence as you walk about.
Spend a day in Lapad and Babin Kuk
Views along the walk between Lapad and Babin Kuk in Dubrovnik
Away from Dubrovnik Old Town, there is plenty to enjoy. Quieter and with beaches, small coves and green spaces, Lapad and Babin Kuk are great areas away from the Old Town’s busyness.
A beautiful cove on the walk between Lapad and Babin Kuk in Dubrovnik
Swim at Uvala Lapad Beach. This beach, in a small bay, 3.5km from the old town, is a fantastic place to spend a few hours in the summer. Public transport makes it easy to access from the old city.
Walk along the Promenada Lapada (also known as Lapada Run), a forested walkway that snakes around the coastline. Plenty of small beaches let you take a dip along the way. Take the hour-long walk earlier in the day, return in the evening for beautiful sunset views and dine at one of the restaurants on Uvala Lapad’s Sunset Strip.
Hike along one of the many walking trails on Petka Hill to enjoy views out to the Elaphiti Islands
The boardwalk at the start of the Lapad Promenada
Where we stayed
We’ve been fortunate to visit and stay in Dubrovnik twice: once on a road trip, and again on a cruise of the southern Croatian Islands.
On our first stay, we stayed in a lovely studio apartment in Babin Kuk, overlooking the cruise harbour. It was a few steps from the waterfront and a bus ride to Dubrovnik Old Town; we could experience all that Dubrovnik has to offer and more.
Dubrovnik’s Babin Kuk waterfront
On our second visit, our yacht slipped into the port and moored between Babin Kuk and Gruz. Again, it was the perfect place to revisit some of our favourite sights around Dubrovnik.
Our conclusion
Dubrovnik is a city full of history and character. Many tourists don’t realise that beyond the Old Town, Dubrovnik has other things to see and do.
We thoroughly enjoyed both our stays and look forward to returning to find more of its hidden gems.
In case you’re interested
We hope we’ve inspired you to do some of the best things to do when visiting Dubrovnik. And, if you’re looking for more …
On our road trip through Croatia, we had a spare day in Dubrovnik, so we took a day trip to Kotor in Montenegro. It’s an easy two-hour trip each way by car. Read more about Kotor through the link below
On our last Croatian road trip, we drove the scenic coastal road between our stays in various towns and cities. The views over the Adriatic enchanted us so much that we vowed to return to see the islands. So, after extensive research, we found that a wonderful way to see Croatia’s islands was by cruise.
Choosing the cruise
Of course, when it comes to cruising the Croatian coastline and islands, there are lots of options.
Through further research, we learned Sail Croatia offered the best option for a relaxed, crowds-free cruise from Split to Dubrovnik and return.
Sailing Croatia’s coastline and islands on the MS Olimp,
The cruise takes in the popular southern islands with plenty of time in Split and Dubrovnik, with guided tours of both.
Sail Croatia has a fleet of vessels to suit every budget and comfort level. Yachts, sailing boats, catamarans – you take your pick.
The route
Stari Grad, Hvar Island
Hvar, Hvar Island
Mljet
Dubrovnik
Korcula
Makarska
Split
The Yacht
Our yacht, the recently refurbished MS Olimp, has 18 cabins (10 above deck and 8 below deck) and caters for 36 guests in twin or double cabins.
Your private cabin
Each cabin is modern, available with twin or double beds, has a private ensuite and a television, with plenty of room to relax away from other guests if you choose.
Cabins are serviced daily.
Social areas
The yacht has a spacious indoor lounge area with comfortable seating for relaxing, reading and socialising while at sea.
A well-appointed covered outdoor deck at the back of the yacht, with more seating, provides another space to enjoy the changing scenery.
The top deck has sun loungers and a covered area to enjoy the sunshine and wider views, or have a dip in the jacuzzi. For convenience, there’s also an outdoor bar on the deck.
We are early risers; we used the indoor lounge and the outdoor deck to roll out our yoga mats before other guests woke.
Swimming Deck
For convenience, a retractable swimming deck allows guests to step or dive into the clear blue waters for a swim.
Dining area
Between the indoor lounge and the outdoor area at the back of the yacht is an elegant dining room complete with a bar. Guests are served breakfast and lunch here daily.
Onboard meals
The extensive daily buffet breakfasts, morning and afternoon tea, and delicious three-course gourmet lunches are included. And a Captain’s Dinner Evening with entertainment at the end of the cruise
The Cruise Director
Iona, our Tour Manager, was from Romania. Efficient and friendly, Iona answered questions and corralled guests for activities. She also arranged additional tours for guests that were not included in the cruise price.
The Crew
Our Skipper was the ship owner’s son, Jure, who did an excellent job manoeuvring our vessel through the channels, ensuring a comfortable week of sailing.
Our small but versatile crew consisted of a chef and his assistant, two guest staff members who assisted in the bar and dining area, a maid, and two sailors. All were hospitable and went above and beyond to ensure all guests enjoyed their onboard experience.
The Guests
A welcome reception, complete with canapés and champagne upon boarding the Olimp, allowed guests to get to know each other before the captain set sail. Our fellow guests hailed from Australia, the United States and England.
Pre-Cruise
We flew into Split from Rome after more than two and a half months visiting France, Switzerland, the Italian mainland, Sicily and Malta on a driving holiday.
It was early October, and unlike our last visit to Split at the height of summer, when the Old Town teemed with tourists, musicians played on stages set up for summer concerts, and buskers performed on the pavements. The sun was shining, but the summer crowds had disappeared, leaving the town very pleasant to stroll around.
With an evening and morning free before we boarded our yacht, we had a lovely time reacquainting ourselves with Split’s Old Town and harbour-side.
Post-Cruise
We decided to stay a couple of extra nights, enjoying Split and its surrounds after the cruise. We hired a car to visit Klis Fortress, the Roman Ruins in the town of Solin and meandered the coastal road to Omis (the hometown of Damir, one of our sailors on the Olimp).
Our Sail Croatia experience
The Sail Croatia staff were helpful, accommodating, welcoming and hospitable from our very first enquiry until we disembarked the yacht.
Boarding was fast and efficient, and the yacht was conveniently moored very near to Diocletian’s Palace and our overnight accommodation.
Our cabin
On the upper deck, our cabin was comfortable and functional. When we originally booked, six months before the sailing, all the upper cabins had already been taken. We requested an upgrade if a cabin became available due to cancellation. Three months before joining the cruise, we were lucky to secure one at a small additional cost.
The meals
The gourmet meals, freshly prepared onboard, were delicious, with all dietary requirements catered for. Passengers could purchase beverages from the bar.
Extra-curricular inclusions and excursions
Guided tours of Split and Dubrovnik as well as a Captain’s Dinner were included. Extra special was the dinner at a local village winery in Stari Grad. The vineyard’s wines accompanied the delicious meal. Other excursions and experiences were offered at reasonable prices at each port.
Morning sailings and swim stops in beautiful secluded bays were included, providing ample time to relax. Or, we could sit back, enjoy the passing scenery and socialise. Afternoons and evenings were spent on excursions, exploring the islands at leisure and dining at local restaurants.
Where we stayed pre- and post-cruise
Pre-Cruise
We arrived in Split one day before embarkation and booked accommodation in the heart of Split’s Old Town. Accessed from a private courtyard in a pretty little square, Apartment Ivan was comfortable and provided all we needed for our stay.
Convenience was the key. We could step straight out to explore the streets and alleyways of the old town, the main sights around Diocletian’s Palace or stroll to the waterfront.
Post-cruise
To allow us more time to enjoy Split after the cruise and the final days of our three-month-long vacation, we re-booked Apartment Ivan for a couple of more nights.
For our final night, we booked an apartment near Trogir to spend an afternoon and evening seeing more of Trogir’s beautiful historic town and Ciovo Island. The airport was within walking distance from the apartment; we could easily arrive in time for our early morning flight.
Amazing sea view apartment – Romantica is owned by a lovely Croatian couple who live below the spacious two-bedroom apartment. It has a balcony overlooking the sea.
Our conclusion
Our Sail Croatia cruise was the perfect way to experience the Croatian coastline and its sun-drenched islands. The cruise allowed us to visit the more popular islands while also revisiting Split and Dubrovnik in a relaxed atmosphere.
If you’re looking for an alternative to conventional cruising, we highly recommend a Sail Croatia experience. It was a luxury small-ship cruise at its best.
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