Stunning beaches, a quaint historic old town and a charming but vibrant main town. Add rolling hills covered in vineyards, olive groves, lavender, rosemary farms and small fishing villages, and Hvar Island is a perfect holiday destination. Here’s a guide to visiting beautiful Hvar Island.
We spent time on the island as part of a cruise on a small yacht travelling between Split and Dubrovnik.
Hvar was the first stop on our cruise after setting off from Split
A short history
Founded by the Greeks in 384 BC and originally named Pharos, Stari Grad retains its ancient qualities through its stone alleys, lanes and archways. On the agricultural plains, the most preserved Greek plot division system in the Mediterranean continues today.
After Roman and Byzantine rule, Slavs took over the island before the Turks and Venetians. Finally, following a period under the Habsburg monarchy, Hvar became part of Dalmatia in 1813.
Stari Grad
Stari Grad has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2008. Evidence of its multi-layered history is blended throughout the town in its ancient ruins and architecture.
Stari Grad Riva
The port is right in the old town, and the town’s promenade (Stari Grad Riva) is a few steps from where we docked.
We arrived in the early autumn, when the promenade and town were quiet; summer tourists had departed, leaving us to wander at leisure. We could imagine the old town busy with day-trippers from the main town, Hvar, during peak summer season.
In early October, a few stores on the promenade were still open, hoping to capture some end-of-season trade. Everyone else, including most restaurants and cafes, had shut up shop to rest over the winter.
The township
The squares, streets and alleys leading away from the promenade are charming to stroll around. A blend of architecture makes for interesting exploration. For example, as you walk the streets near the harbour, stop to see Tvrdalj.
Tvrdalji Castle
Tvrdalj, the Castle of Petar Hektorovic, is the fortified Renaissance summer home of the renowned 15th-century Croatian poet. Behind the stone-walled entrance, you’ll find a haven designed to shelter poets, travellers and locals from an Ottoman attack. A fishpond and tower are the central features.
The Castle opens from May to October for limited visiting hours. Unfortunately, it was closed during our time in Stari Grad.
Church of St Peter
As we explored the town, the streets were quiet except for the chiming of church bells, which enticed us to the far end of town.
On a rise bordering pastures is a little church. We arrived as the congregation emerged from the building singing and chanting, with the menfolk carrying a statue of Mary and child and women following behind. After the procession passed, we stepped inside to have a look.
An evening at Hora Hvar
The island’s deep-rooted wine-making traditions, lavender fields, and olive groves are centred on Hora Hvar, the Stari Grad Plain, where centuries-old Greek stone walls mark plots across over 80 hectares of land.
Our evening destination was FarmHouse Agroturism Pharos, where the Žuvela family continues ancient farming traditions, producing high-quality wine, lavender, olives, and fresh vegetables on 32 hectares.
Tastings and learning
We were served cherry and fig liqueurs on arrival, watched the sun set over the farm, and enjoyed an evening of delicious delicacies, wine, and liqueurs, accompanied by a lesson about wine and food production on the farm.
First course – Platters of cheese, salami, salted and preserved anchovies, and preserved meat pate, served with bread and a selection of olive oils from the farm (virgin, extra virgin, and infused), accompanied by a light white wine.
Second course – Grilled fish with sautéed courgettes, stew of slow-cooked veal and lamb with potatoes, eggplant and courgettes and a green salad. It was accompanied by another white wine similar to a moscato, which was not sweet but more robust than the first. A glass of red wine followed.
Dessert – Fresh sugar plums and figs were served with a rosé wine to finish the evening.
Take a morning walk around the bay
Before we sailed, there was time for an hour’s walk along the promenade to the other side of the inlet. Small resorts and holiday villas line the waterfront. In the summer, all would be busy with holidaymakers.
At this time of year, they were all closed up for the winter, and not a soul was about, apart from a couple of our fellow cruise guests.
We felt like we had the island to ourselves!
Hvar
Compared to Stari Grad, Hvar was much busier.
Because there was a wait for the yacht to dock in port, and to maximise our time in the town, guests were delivered to the shore by water taxi.
Instead of joining some guests on a guided tour, we spent our afternoon and evening exploring at leisure.
A walk up to Spanjola Fortress
Spanjola Fortress was built in the 1500s and sits atop a hill overlooking Hvar town, the port and islets.
After a steep stairway from the main square through Porta di Datallo, a winding path surrounded by rockeries takes you up to the Venetian fortress.
The views on the way up and from the Fortress walls are stunning.
Explore the streets and alleyways
We returned to the harbour front at a much slower pace, taking the time to explore the streets and alleyways leading off the staircase to our left and right. Each was lined with private homes, cafes, and a treasure trove of small boutiques.
Spend time in St Stephen’s Square (Pjaca)
Dalmatia’s largest square, Pjaca runs from St Stephen’s Cathedral to the harbour. Built from reclaimed land in the 1800’s, the square was once part of the harbour.
The long cobbled square with the Cathedral at the far end is full of cafes and restaurants. It hosts events and concerts during the summer. When we visited, the square was being dismantled following what we imagine was the final event for the summer season.
Stroll along the Riva
While it would be busy during the summer season, we found the promenade away from where yachts and other boats dock a tranquil area to spend time in.
Small stores, bars and eateries line the promenade, which continues around the cove. We enjoyed some downtime before dinner, sitting on a bench watching the comings and goings on the harbour as well as locals out for evening strolls.
Enjoy a Dalmatian meal
One of the beauties of travelling on Sail Croatia’s Elegance cruise through the southern Croatian islands was eating like kings and queens onboard for breakfast and lunch.
For our evening meals, we chose our own dining options at the ports we visited.
In Hvar, we sat back and thoroughly enjoyed a Dalmatian meal complete with paired wines at Dalmatino. Delicate polenta entrees, Dalmatian-style gnocchi and risotto dishes teased our taste buds, while the decadent desserts completed the meal perfectly.
An after-dinner stroll for night views
An after-dinner stroll followed the promenade, where we found a scenic spot at the far end of the cove to admire the night lights around Hvar harbour front and the illuminated Fortress.
Our conclusion
Two different experiences on one Croatian island.
Stari Grad provided a relaxed start to our cruise of the southern Croatian islands. In our opinion, it is quieter and more family-friendly while still giving you access to the sea and beaches. It’s the perfect part of Hvar Island to spend time in if you want a beach holiday with a historic element.
For a long time, Hvar Town had a reputation as a summer party town, with plenty of nightspots for those who wanted a night out after a day at the beach. Today, with noise restrictions and earlier closing times for nightclubs and open-air bars, Hvar Town is a pleasant place to stay if you’re looking for beautiful beaches, idyllic coastal scenery and plenty of dining options.
We enjoyed each for its individual uniqueness.
In case you’re interested
We explored the southern Croatian Islands on a small ship. We tell you all about the small ship experience in our blog below. Click on the link to read all about sailing in southern Croatia.
