Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: Italy (Page 1 of 3)

How to see more of Milan in one day

The grand Vittorio Emmanuele building stood in front of us with the magnificent Duomo to our right. Our excitement to see more of Milan through the eyes of a local was not dampened by the blistering summer sun beating down on us while we waited. After thirty minutes though we realised the host of the walking tour was not going to appear. It looked like he had joined the other Milanese to abandon the city for the summer holidays! Our other walking tour buddies were just as disappointed as we separated in different directions to fend for ourselves.

See more of Milan with a Stroll Buddy

Fast forward to our next visit. We discovered the Stroll Buddy group (formerly Global Greeter Network) and booked a day with a Greeter before leaving on our six-week road trip. Dino and his apprentice, Sandro met us outside our apartment at precisely 9:30 am.

San Bernandino alle Ossa 

Our first stop was not far from our apartment in the city centre. Dino guided us into the side chapel of the church with walls embellished with human skulls and bones. Macabre but artistic too. The bizarre idea to decorate a chapel with human remains dates back to the Middle Ages. Space was running out in the courtyard cemetery where the church now stands so it was decided to excavate the remains and store them. A church was built with a dedicated chapel for the remains to be displayed.

The artistic creations will capture your attention but remember to look up to see the amazing frescoes on the ceiling. Sandro was astonished as us. He hadn’t seen the chapel in all his years living in the city!

The chapel of skulls in San Bernandino alle Ossa 

Milan University

There’s one thing we’ve discovered on our travels. Universities are full of hidden treasures and Milan University is no exception

We started our visit with a stroll along the outer walls while Dino provided some background history.  His commentary didn’t prepare us for the stunning main courtyard just inside the entrance.

Milan University courtyard
Milan University’s beautiful entrance courtyard

The grounds of the University are unique because two courtyards further inside the University precinct hold Roman ruins: a Roman fridge for storing perishables and medicines and a large kitchen with a courtyard where wood was stored and fires lit for cooking.

Roman ruins inside Milan University grounds
Roman ruins inside Milan University grounds

The University was a hospital in its past life and there were remnants of the past visible as we walked through the university. The old hospital ward now converted into a law library left a lasting impression as we walked through to see more of the University’s stunning architecture.

San Satiro Church

Retracing our steps to the main city area, Dino pointed out San Satiro church (Santa Maria presso San Satiro) urging us to make a visit the next day when it was open. Since we were staying in the area we returned to find the nondescript facade of the building is deceptive! We’ll not give away any secrets but we strongly recommend making time in your itinerary to visit. And, look out for the illusory apse when you visit.

The apse inside San Satiro Church
The decorative apse inside San Satiro Church

The L.O.V.E. sculpture

A large marble sculpture named L.O.V.E stands in front of the Stock Exchange building in Piazza degli Affari. According to Dino, the Milanese call it  “The Finger”. Commissioned in 2008, the sculpture is known to be a statement against the fascist rule and sends a message to the financial sector which contributed to the Italian financial crisis. There is a twist to the meaning of the name. L.O.V.E stands for liberta, odio, vendetta, and eternita (freedom, hate, revenge, and eternity). How did we miss it on past visits?

The L.O.V.E. sculpture, Milan Stock Exchange
The controversial L.O.V.E. sculpture outside Milan’s Stock Exchange

Castello Sforzesco

Castello Sforzesco
The ornate entrance to Castello Sforzesco

One of Milan’s most famous landmarks is the Castel. We had strolled around the fortress and gardens before, however this visit was much more informative. Dino invited us to look closer at the detail on the walls and things we had not paid attention to on past visits.

Our Stroll Buddies, Dino and Sandro were able to provided background information and insights to so many of the sights they took us to see

Beyond the castle are shaded gardens with paths to wander along to reach the Porta Napolean at the far end. Napolean, of course, wanted to make a grand entrance whenever he visited the city!

Dino shared stories and more history of his city as we navigated the circumference outside the castle walls. By this time we were all ready for a coffee break. Princi is one of Milan’s popular coffee houses and artisanal bakeries, and would you believe it, there was one just across the road. It was a hot day so a cold coffee, shaken, stirred and served in a martini glass was enjoyed by all before Sandro took his leave. He was expected home to have lunch with his father.

Brera

One of Milan’s most chic districts is Brera. It’s home to some of Milan’s best fashion boutiques along with numerous dining venues. The district’s past has left it with a bohemian touch. However, we were not there to shop or eat but to experience the arts.

Statue of Napoleon in the entrance to Academia di Belle Arti di Brera

Housed in an old convent, Dino took us into the Academia di Belle Arti di Brera (Academy of Fine Arts). The Academy shares its space with the Pinacoteca, an exhibition space housing the works of some of Italy’s greatest artists including Bellini, Raphael and Caravaggio. A leisurely walk through both provided the opportunity to view more famous exhibits along with the artworks of current and past students. Not to mention, a chance to appreciate the building’s magnificent architecture.

The highlight: Climbing a staircase to enter the Biblioteca Braidense, one of Italy’s largest and most beautiful national libraries. The walls are lined with books, dating back to the 1600s displayed in glass cabinets. We were lost for words!

Biblioteca Braidense

The Botanical Gardens are also in Brera. While we didn’t have an opportunity to visit at the time we will be returning to explore on our next visit.

Fashion in Moscova

The city’s reputation as one of the world’s fashion capitals is apparent throughout the city through the men, women and children who proudly wear Italy’s great fashion labels. And, Moscova is the district to go to for fashion, with small boutiques and fashion houses enticing visitors to shop.

Behind a nondescript frontage and through a courtyard bistro is the Moscova District Market. It’s a large space displaying collections well-known Italian brands and their latest collections. Today entry is limited and by reservation only. We recommend reserving to have a look inside if you have the time. You might even be tempted to take home a unique piece of clothing or accessory as a memento of your visit to Milan.

Moscova District Fashion Market
Moscova District Fashion Market is not your normal market!

Eataly stores are now located in many of the world’s major cities. If you haven’t visited one before and you’re a lover of Italian food and fare, you’ll enjoy wandering through the store located in Moscova. Stop for a bite to eat before you carry on to New Milan.

Porta Nuova

Porta Nova is everything a visitor to Milan will not expect and a contrast to the older districts we walked through. Some of the older rundown areas have been transformed into green spaces and walkways and futuristic office towers built. This is the city’s financial and business district. 

Dino led us along a pathway from the piazza to Bosco Verticale (Vertical Wood) The apartment complex was nominated as the most innovative high-rise in the world in 2014. Since then, it has inspired similar concepts in high-rise building architecture worldwide. Dino provided an insight into the area’s development and past history. It allowed us to appreciate it more than we would have if we had come to see it on our own.

Bosco Verticale

A young couple stopped to hear Dino’s commentary asking him what other highlights in Milan they should visit. Without hesitation, Dino provided them with a list of the places we had visited during the morning. Yet we knew from our time with Dino though, that they will not grasp what they are looking at. It is the small things that only a local knows that has enhanced our visit to this wonderful city.

Dino bids us farewell here. He politely declined our offer to take him to lunch. His wife was waiting for him at home with his lunch ready. He reluctantly accepted the small token of appreciation that we have brought, citing that it wasn’t necessary and that he would love to show us more at another time. With a wave, he left us to retrace our footsteps back to the city centre.

Our conclusion – did we see more of Milan?

Having been to Milan before, independently and with a tour group we agreed our time with Dino was very well spent. We could have looked up these sites and researched our hearts out but the insights and stories that Dino and Sandro provided into their city proved invaluable. There is no doubt that we will be seeing more of their city with them on a future visit.

In case you are interested…

Where we stayed

On a previous visit we had found an apartment offered by Hemeras Boutique Homes through Booking.com. They had a number of apartments throughout the city. Our apartment was two streets from the Cathedral and because of its proximity to all the main attractions, we were keen to return. We contacted them directly to enquire if they had the same apartment available. Unfortunately it was not, offering us another apartment in the same complex at a discount which we gladly accepted.

Where we ate

The precinct around via Paola da Cannobio where we stayed had numerous local eateries to choose from. After a day of wandering around the city it was pleasant to spend a relaxed summer evening dining where the locals enjoyed their evening meals.

Where we shopped

Milan is a fashion capital and if you’re wanting to take home a fashion piece , we’ll let you in on a secret place to shop. Elegant Galleria Vittorio Emmanuelle offers designer and exclusive boutique shopping and the stores around the Duomo offer a choice of high street fashion. However, if you’ve got time and would like an Italian creation, walk the short distance to and along Corso Venezia. Here you’ll find our favourite outlet store, Matias. It’s a treasure trove of men’s and women’s fashion at reasonable prices.

Want to do something outside of the city?

Take a day trip to Lake Como one hour north of Milan. It’s easily accessible by rail, bus or car. If you have a car, you can take a slow drive winding your way around the lake where you’ll pass by beautiful lakefront villages to vibrant Bellagio. If you arrive in Como by bus or rail, indulge in hopping from town to town on the ferries which regularly criss-cross across the Lake.

Want to see more of Italy?

Read about some of our finds:

Need more info or suggestions on what to do in Milan and beyond?

Feel free to ask away in the comments below or email us at info@travellingsimply.com.

Things you’ll love to see in charming Genoa

Charming Genoa

Many tourists don’t visit Genoa because it is not close to Italy’s more popular tourist spots. Rest assured, there are many things you’ll love to see and do in charming Genoa.

The city secured its importance early because of its harbour and has been inhabited for thousands of years with its own history complete with magnificent piazzas, vias, palaces and buildings.

Why we visited Genoa

“Where shall we take our driving break?” We were driving from Switzerland to Rapallo on Italy’s Ligurian coast.

It was to be in Genoa, a city we had visited before. With only a couple of hours available, we wandered around a small part of the old town area reflecting on why hadn’t planned to stay.

We had stayed in the city a few years before and recalled there was heavy traffic from Monaco into Italy but what beautiful views over the Italian Riviera!  Spectacular sea views on one side and equally striking terraces of vineyards, and olive and citrus groves on the other.

Things you’ll love to see and do in charming Genoa

Genoa’s Old Town

Parking was prohibited in the historic centre so we dragged our bags into the maze of alleyways and instantly lost our bearings. Not a soul was in sight. We found a pharmacy open, and a pharmacist who spoke a little English. He decided that we were incapable of finding our way to our bed and breakfast, Quarto Piano and guided us through a tight network of narrow alleys emerging in front of a beautiful old building. We would never have found our way! Ersi buzzed us up to the fourth floor as our guide disappeared with a smile and a wave. We lugged our bags up the 105 steps of the impressive marble staircase to find our chic abode. Like many historic buildings, there was no lift!

Once settled, a wandering of the carrugi revealed a historic centre with many old, a little new, wealthy and many not-so-wealthy inhabitants cohabiting within the medieval core of the city. It was interesting just to cast our eyes around our little neighbourhood before we explored further out.

Porto Antico, Porto Vecchio, Porto Nuovo

The harbour is the life of Genoa and we spent our first afternoon exploring the docks. Each has its own characteristics and we found a range of dining options along the way where visitors and locals can sit back and watch the comings and goings in the harbour. We even retraced our steps back to our accommodation without getting lost!

There’s plenty to see and do in Porto Antico

The Palazzos of Via Guiseppe Garibaldi

What a difference a day made! The next morning we stepped out for our first full day in the city to find the shutters had been lifted and business was well underway.

Our first stop was famous via Guiseppe Garibaldi. Built by Genovese aristocracy, the street is lined with magnificent palaces. Each noble palace has its own character with extravagant facades, enthralling courtyards and amazing interiors hidden behind the nondescript entrances. Give yourself plenty of time, there is much to be amazed by.

Take a peek at the elegant courtyards hidden behind doors on via Garibaldi
You’ll find each interior exquisite
From inside one doorway to another
The beautifully decorated exteriors are unique to that palazzo

Piazza Ferrari

Piazza Ferrari is one of Italy’s most beautiful piazzas. In the centre of the old town boasting a majestic fountain, it’s a wonderful place to stop and appreciate the beautiful old palaces and buildings that flank the perimeter of the Piazza.

Piazza Ferrari
Historic buildings frame Piazza Ferrari

Via XX Settembre (via 20 September)

Linking Piazza Ferrari to Piazza Vittoria, Via XX Settembre is another of the city’s most elegant streets. Boutiques, shops and cafes are housed on the ground floors of the extravagant buildings lining both sides of the street. Cast your eyes around to admire the intricate and decorative facades and balconies of the buildings. Make sure you look up and down too. The arcaded street has beautiful mosaic floors and equally stunning panelled ceilings.

Piazza della Vittoria

The walk down XX Settembre ends at Piazza della Vittoria, another beautiful and important square. The significant feature of the square is the triumphal arch dedicated to the city’s fallen soldiers from World War I.

Genoa’s Triumphal Arch

Porto Soprana

Genoa was once a walled city and its city walls were once the longest in Italy. Today Porto Soprana is the best of the remaining gateways to visit.  The gateway between two towers, or the Towers of Sant’Andrea as they are sometimes referred to is not far from Piazza Ferrari.

The towering towers of Porto Soprano
The well-preserved gateway

Casa Colombo

A stone’s throw from Porto Soprana is Christopher Columbus House. Christopher Columbus was born in Genoa and lived on the site between 1455 and 1470. The current building is a reconstruction built a few decades after the original house was destroyed (believed to be during the bombing of Genoa by France in 1684). The surrounding area has been renovated and rebuilt and while extra floors have been added to the house, it has been left to reflect what it looked when Columbus lived there and now houses a museum dedicated to the city’s famous son.

Casa Columbus

Our conclusion

Of course, the above is just a sprinkling of what we have seen. Like many of Italy’s cities and towns, there is an exhaustive list of charming churches and cathedrals, museums and theatres and viewing points to include on a visit.

We also know we have not seen or experienced all this great city has to offer and we’ll be going to go back for another stay. If you haven’t been to Genoa before, we highly recommend that you consider adding the city that most travellers forget to your itinerary. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.

P.S

If you enjoyed reading about Genoa, you may like a couple of our other Italian “off the radar” recommendations:

Why you will love this free attraction in Rome

A short distance from Piazza di Spagna and Rome’s bustling tourist district lies a sanctuary that few except locals know of. We think it’s worth taking the time to pay a visit to this free attraction in Rome.

Villa Borghese is a sprawling park on Pincio Hill. Covering over 80 hectares, there are a number of ways to enter the gardens. Our favourite is from the Spanish Steps, by turning left at the top in front of the Trinita dei Monti and walking up the gentle sloping pathway to the entrance.

Villa Borghese was established in the early 1600s when Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew to Pope Paul V decided to turn his city vineyard into Rome’s most extensively landscaped garden. Over years a number of attractions were added turning the Gardens into a small parcel of paradise in the middle of the city. The State acquired the Gardens from the Borghese family in the early 1900s and opened them for the public to enjoy.

We have visited the park over a number of visits and have still to complete our exploration. Some highlights we’ve discovered:

Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument

A non-descript monument to take note of as you enter via the sloping pathway from the top of the Spanish Steps. Look down over or walk down to the monument for a closer look.

The monument honours a small contingent of compatriots who fought in a campaign to liberate Rome from the rule of Pope Pius IX. Enrico led the small contingent suffering in the attack and the monument depicts Giovanni, his younger brother supporting his dying brother up the Spanish Steps. The names of the other volunteer fighters can be found on the monument.

Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument, Rome
Enrico e Giovanni Cairoli Monument

Pincio Terrace

Walk further ahead once you enter the park and you’ll find one of the best photo spots in Rome. The terrace provides a commanding view of the domes and rooftops that make up Rome’s skyline and it’s the perfect place to do a little landmark spotting. It also gives you a birdseye view over Piazza del Popolo.

Domes of Rome
You can never have enough of looking out to the domes and rooftops of Rome
Piazza del Popolo
Watch the comings and goings over Piazza del Popolo from the Pincio Terrace.

Temple of Aesculapius

The Temple of Aesculapius sits on a small island in the middle of an artificial lake not far from Pincio Terrace.

A serene spot in the park, the temple dedicated to the God of Medicine and built in 1785 is said to replicate an ancient temple originally situated on the River Tiber.

You can hire a row boat to lazily while away an afternoon on the lake.

The idyllic Temple of Aesculapius on the lake

The Water Clock

Looking for something quirky? Find the water clock (hydrochronometer) in the gardens not far from the Pincio. It was built for display at the Universal Exposition held in Paris in 1867 and brought back to be placed in a fountain in the Gardens in 1873. It still works.

Water clock in the Villa Borghese Gardens
The Water Clock hidden in the Villa Borghese Gardens

Galleria Borghese

Our favourite attraction in the park, Galleria Borghese was originally called Casa Nobile.

The Villa Borghese houses a number of museums within its grounds. The Galleria Borghese is the highlight and one of the world’s leading museums. While not large, it houses some of the finest artworks and sculptures from the 1500s to 1800s. Works by Bernini, Raphael and Carravaggio are housed in an intimate setting.

Tickets for a timeslot are required. A guarantee that you won’t be vying with other art enthusiasts to view the masterpieces. Book your tickets well in advance to avoid missing out on your preferred date and time. We can guarantee you will not be disappointed.

Galleria Borghese, Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome
The inviting entrance to the Galleria Borghese museum
Galleria Borghese, Villa Borghese Gardens, Rome

Other ways to enjoy the Gardens

Take a walk in the park

The shaded walking paths lined with busts, fountains, manicured gardens (some reflecting an old English style), and rotundas weren’t opened to the public until the early 1900s. Today, you can stroll through the park exploring all its nooks and crannies to find the secret gardens spotted throughout the park.

Visit the zoo

The Villa Borghese Gardens is also home to the Bioparco di Roma Zoo which is a wonderful way to break away from the historical sites and entertain children if you are travelling as a family. When you’re finished visiting the Bioparco, drop by to watch the puppetry show at the Teatro Dei Burattani San Carlino. With puppet theatre not so common these days, it will give the children a special experience to treasure.

Stop by the equestrian arena

If you like watching equestrian events, and you’re visiting Rome in May, stop by the Piazza di Siena to watch the International Horse Show, one of the most well-known horseriding events in Italy. The event is free and open to the public.

Go to the theatre or watch a movie

If you are not excited by horse events and prefer something with a hint of culture then take in a Shakespearian play at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre. Emulating the famous Globe Theatre in London, it’s the only Elizabethan theatre in Italy.

Otherwise buy a ticket to one of the summer outdoor screenings of the Casa Del Cinema, an arthouse movie theatre.

Browse through another gallery, or two

The Borghese Gallery is just one of several galleries in the gardens. We are looking forward to visiting the 16th-century mansion, Villa Medici which houses the French Academy on our next visit to have a look inside its beautiful interior.

You can also visit the Museo Pietro Canonica which is dedicated to the work of artist Pietro Canonica or the Museo Carloi Bilotti which displays the large art collection of billionaire Carlo Bilotti

Cycle around the Gardens

If you’re not keen on walking around the gardens or are pressed for time, then an easy way to explore the sprawling gardens is to rent a bicycle. The park has a number of cycle rental vendors spotted around the park. A more novel way to see the sights around the gardens is to hire a quadricycle. The four-seater electric quadricycles are fun and a family-friendly way to enjoy an afternoon.

A picnic in the Borghese

After all the rushing from one monument to another, a great way to have a bit of downtime is to gather some goodies from the markets in the morning, pack a picnic lunch and find a shady spot in the Gardens to while away an hour or two.

Time out to exercise

Like to exercise? The park’s wide trails are the perfect place to take a run, jog or power walk. Or, roll out your yoga mat in one of the many secluded spots for the perfect start to your day in the Eternal City.

Jogging in the Borghese Gardens
What better way to start the day in Rome than a jog along the trails in the Borghese Gardens

People watch

The perfect way to complete your visit to the Villa Borghese is to take a seat on the park bench (you might find one close to a street musician) and enjoy a little people-watching. The Park is a sanctuary for Romans to escape the chaos of their city. If you visit on a Sunday afternoon you’ll find family groups enjoying the many recreational activities or young and elderly couples taking a romantic passeggiata around the park.

The Villa Borghese is the perfect sanctuary in the heart of Rome

Our conclusion

These are just a few of the many activities offered in Villa Borghese. We have yet to explore more of the Gardens. We’ll definitely be spending time there on our next visit to Rome. We have been entranced by this haven in the city. It will take just one visit for you to love it too.

P.S.
We’ll have more to say about the Galleria Borghese, our favourite art museum, in a dedicated post coming soon. Make sure you sign up to receive an email notification when we tell you about our favourite gallery in more detail. You’ll be as mesmerised as we were!

P.P.S.
And, if you found this suggestion useful for your next visit to Rome, then you may like these posts:

A pharmacy in Florence

Florence, one of the most beautiful cities in the world, the epitome of elegance and charm. The city draws visitors from far and wide to appreciate Italian renaissance including stunning architecture, artistic masterpieces and culture.

Florence is entitled to more than one visit!

We had been to Florence before and were drawn back for a longer and closer look into the hidden nooks and crannies of this enchanting city.

Of course, we revisited old haunts, ambled across Ponte Vecchio, admired the Duomo, strolled around the Piazza della Signoria to admire the replica of Michelangelo’s statue of David and walked up to Piazzale Michelangelo to another replica of David cast in bronze overlooking the city. We savoured the amazing view and lost ourselves in the Botanical Garden and the streets winding our way back to the city.

Included on our list for this visit was a place where fewer tourists visit.

Being a pharmacist in His past life, we often step inside pharmacies on our travels out of curiosity.

In Florence, He was particularly keen to visit a pharmacy we had read about, the Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy.

Possibly one of the oldest pharmacies in the world, we felt we were stepping back in time and experiencing a taste of a modern day perfumery in one.  It’s easy to miss the entrance to the pharmacy which is a relatively inconspicuous doorway adjacent to the Basilica Santa Maria Novella.

The pharmacy has a long history explained at intervals through the building. The pharmacy dates back to 1221 after the Dominican monks from the Basilica gained a reputation for the medicines and balms they made from the herbs they grew onsite and used in their hospital.

Today, it is described as more of a museum than a pharmacy. Visitors like us wander in to admire the beautifully restored frescoes which adorn the walls and ceilings as much as the old jars and containers that line the walls and purchase the unique elixirs, perfumes and soaps which are now made in a much larger facility off-site.

Whether you intend to purchase or not, it is worth a detour to smell the aromas and perfumes and enjoy the sculptures, paintings and frescoes inside this unique piece of living history before

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Treviso, the “little Venice” of Italy

We are winding our way to Milan in the dying weeks of our holiday. Do we visit Venice on our way?

We have appreciated and enjoyed its uniqueness on a previous visit when it was early summer and already busy with tourists and holidaymakers.

Were either of us keen to go back? The answer is a resounding “no”. It will be more fun to explore unknown territory to see more of what Italy has to offer “off the beaten track”.

We settle on spending a few days in Treviso; a pleasant day’s drive from Pula in Croatia via Trieste. “Nothing to see there but the airport!” advised a kind-hearted colleague when He shared this plan. This immediately prompted a Google Search; a closer look at our trusty Lonely Planet and DK Eyewitness travel books. Everything looked okay and we decided to take the risk.

From Trieste, our mostly reliable GPS (programmed to avoid toll roads) took us to Treviso on the quieter and more scenic route, the food bowl of northern Italy. We leisurely drove kilometre after kilometre along roads surrounded by vineyards and farmland trying to distinguish what the crops were.

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The ornate entrance to the walled Italian city of Treviso, also known as “Little Venice” because of its canals.

It was late afternoon when we entered the walled city of Treviso, completely unaware of what was in store for us!

Treviso is not just another quaint Italian city. Treviso is:

  • the home of the Luciano Benetton, the founder of the fashion brand United Colors of Benetton – visit their flagship store in the central piazza (I have a number of Benetton items in my wardrobe)
  • the home of the highest quality Prosecco wines. The region is renowned for the highest quality Prosecco wines and only wines grown in the area can claim to be Prosecco (we love our Prosecco)
  • the home of Pinarello bike (cycling enthusiasts will know what this means)
  • the birthplace of one of Italy’s most delectable of Italian desserts, Tiramisu.
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The flagship store of United Colors of Benetton in Treviso’s Piazza Indipendenza

Treviso has more to offer! The city is the little-hidden treasure that few tourists have discovered. Known as the “Little Venice”, Treviso has none of the grandeur of Venice but is equally enticing for those who have already visited Venice and are looking for a more tourist-free experience. Instead of over-priced coffee, the Veneto tourist traps and throngs of tourists queuing for photo opportunities wander along Treviso’s more quaint canals, cobbled and narrow winding streets, wander into the churches and cathedrals, enjoy a coffee or pre-dinner aperitif in the central piazza and watch the locals living life! And, if you want a photo opportunity, stroll to Dantes Bridge.

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Dantes Bridge and the canals of Treviso

There’s an added bonus for us. We have arrived during one of the highlights of Treviso’s summer, the “Suoni Di Marca” – 18 days of concerts, performance, markets, food and wine on the city walls are held every summer. Free outdoor concerts are common in cities and towns throughout Europe over the summer months.

Each evening after dinner, we joined the locals milling about on the ramparts until late evening waiting for the concerts to start on the large stage set up on the corner tower. The Bueno Vista Social Club had the crowd (including us) jiving to their catchy Cuban salsa music one evening.

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Grup Compay Secundo (the Buena Vista Social Club) performing at Suoni di Marca in Treviso, 2018

For those of you who disembark at Treviso’s airport and rush straight to Venice, plan to stay a day two in Treviso next time to enjoy the charm of this under-rated city and the hospitality of its citizens. If you are arriving in Venice, then at least make time for a day trip before the secret is out.

P.S
We stayed at Brick House. Our apartment was well appointed inside the walls of the medieval city, clean and spacious with generous amenities. Our host, Alberto was very gracious and a mine of information sitting down with us on our arrival to consider our interests and share ideas on what we should see and do during our stay in Treviso, including providing options on local restaurants where we could appreciate local cuisine.

On our first evening, we enjoyed a delicious pizza and pasta meal at La Giaconda on Viale Frà Giocondo located not far from the Brick House in front of the city walls. Alissia was very helpful by translating the Italian menu for us and very accommodating to our dietary requirements.

On another evening, we enjoyed cocktails and a pasta dinner at a trattoria recommended by Alberto of the Brick House, Trattoria Hesperia. The trattoria is well-known for its simple but tasty traditional Apulian dishes which are made with fresh local produce.

La Beccherie is the birthplace of the Italian dessert, Tiramisu. Unfortunately, it was closed for a much deserved holiday break during our visit. However, I am sure we will be visiting Treviso again to make sure we taste the real thing. If you visit Treviso and try their tiramisu before we do or been there and tried it before, leave us a comment below and tell us what you think.

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