Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: self-drive

Everything you need to discover beautiful Queensland!

All good things must come to an end. After the perfect combination of rest, relaxation and exploring in northern Queensland, the return trip had to be made. Our drive south was not going to be boring, there was more to see in our backyard. If you haven’t read about our journey north, read Part One for our recommendations on places to visit on the way north first, and you will have everything you need to discover beautiful Queensland, Australia.

Beautiful Mission Beach

Having heard so much about Mission Beach’s raw beauty, we were looking forward to our stay. The small township of Mission Beach on the Cassowary Coast is a three hour drive from Port Douglas and renowned for two things.

  1. Its close proximity to the Great Barrier Reef.
  2. Its 14km of palm lined golden sand beach.

There are no glitzy bars, cafes and restaurants or walking promenades in Mission Beach. The small village atmosphere makes it the perfect getaway from simply everything! Be prepared to slow down right down and be captivated by its natural beauty. On our late afternoon walk we were surprised to find that we had the whole beach almost to ourselves sharing it with a sole walker we could just spot in the distance. Stopping to watch a pod of whales playing in the waters just off the shore was a delight. There are few places where you can have kilometres of golden sand all to yourself!

Mission Beach, North Queensland
Golden sand for kilometres at Mission Beach

Dunk Island is a short water taxi ride away to take advantage of the walking trails or take the scenic drive along the coast road to tiny settlement of Bingil Bay and pop into Bingil Bay Café for lunch or dinner.

Discover Airlie Beach

Airlie Beach is the gateway to the idyllic Whitsunday Islands and the Great Barrier Reef. The town and its own beauty are often overlooked by tourists using it only as a base or launching point to the islands. We decided avoid the islands and stay in Airlie Beach to appreciate this laid back town.

We had found the township bustling with backpackers and holidaymakers on a previous visit. Not this time! The streets were deserted because of travel restrictions. With school holidays due to start we hoped that vacationers would make their way to the area. It’s a great place to take the family. Note that most beaches are out of bounds from November to May because the waters are full of box jellyfish. Their sting can be life-threatening. To counter this, one of Airlie Beach’s attractions is the large family friendly beach side lagoon area so you swim safely while enjoying the gorgeous views.

Waterviews, Bicentennial Coastal Walkway, Airlie Beach
The spectacular water views along Bicentennial Coastal Walkway, Airlie Beach

By now you’ve guessed that we love to walk! There are a number of hiking trails to choose from in the area including some catering for the bushwalker in the Conway National Our favourite is the Bicentennial Coastal Walkway. The walk, for us, started from our accommodation at the Mantra Boathouse at the marina just outside of the town centre. Officially starting at the Lagoon, the 4 kilometre walkway meanders mostly along the water’s edge as far as Cannonvale Beach showcasing beautiful ocean views. Take a brisk morning walk or a more leisurely evening stroll pausing for a cocktail or meal at the bars and restaurants at Abell Point.

Bicentennial Coastal Walkway, Airlie Beach
Views along the Bicentennial Coastal Walkway

For another viewpoint, take the short drive to Coral Point at Shute Harbour for views out over the Whitsunday Passage and the islands. And, if you’re up for it, walk up to the lookout at Mount Rooper for more spectacular views.

Shute Harbour, Airlie Beach
Views over Shute Harbour passage

The hidden gems of Gladstone

A few days of rest and recreation in Airlie Beach prepared us for the final days of our road trip.

The road into Gladstone portrayed the town’s main purpose. Home to Queensland’s largest multi-commodity port, the landscape was littered with overhead and on-ground rail tracks for shunting goods to the port.

The town isn’t to be underestimated. It provides easy access to the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, and to Heron and Wilson Islands or visitors can take the short ferry ride just off shore to Curtis Island to explore a combination of the lush National Park and the pristine beaches.

Auckland Hill Lookout, Gladstone
Beautiful views from Auckland Hill Lookout, Gladstone

Wanting to stay on dry land? The town offers a small heritage walk. There are few historic buildings in the town but the centre is full of its own unique character with a small heritage walk to follow. We wandered around the backstreets on the outskirts of the town centre finding beautiful Queenslander homes with veranda views over the port. Our meandering eventually found us at Auckland Point Lookout which gives a panorama of the harbour and beyond. Be sure to look up at the wall by the cafe for a little inspiration.

Steps leading down from the Lookout brought us to the East Shores Precinct. The parklands have a waterpark, picnic and barbeque areas, and a waterfront boardwalk. An impressive feature of the precinct is how well the site’s original industrial heritage has been incorporated into the waterfront. Signage along the boardwalk gives a detailed guide of the area’s previous function and history.

East Coast Shores, Gladstone
The historic past is well displayed at Gladstone’s East Coast Shores Precinct

Looking for more to see around the Gladstone region? The towns of Tannum Sands, Agnes Waters, Seventeen Seventy are all great places to explore and only a short drive away.

Our recommendations

We punctuated the six hour drive from Airlie Beach to Gladstone with a stopover for lunch in Rockhampton. With more time we agree that we would have enjoyed staying a few days in the city. The heart of the city centre boasts wide and the leafy streets with beautiful old buildings. A delight to stroll along!

Rockhampton
The beautiful architecture in centre of Rockhampton

Where we stayed

  • Castaways Resort and Spa at Mission Beach boasts rooms and apartments from where you can step into beautiful gardens with direct access to the 14 kilometre beach. Quiet and secluded but right in the centre of Mission Beach, Castaways is a wonderful place to slow down pace and get away from it all.
Castaway Resort, Mission Beach, North Queensland
Absolute beachfront. Our stay at Castaways Resort.
  • The Mantra Boathouse Apartments in Airlie Beach was perfect for our midway stay. All apartments have balconies with spectacular views over the marina and beyond to the Coral Sea. The apartments are a short walking distance from town but far away enough to make it feel like we were in our own little world. We were content to while away our time reading and getting takeout for dinner to enjoy on the balcony between our sightseeing jaunts around the vicinity.
Mantra Boathouse apartment views, Airlie Beach
Views from our balcony at Mantra Boathouse, Airlie Beach
  • Not far from the centre of Gladstone, we stayed at the Mercure Gladstone. Our hotel room was well furnished with a private balcony and the hotel is conveniently attached to the local sports club where we had breakfast and enjoyed pre-dinner drinks. Make sure you have a look at their beautiful art corner featuring local artists.

Where we ate

Mission Beach – We dined at Bibesia restaurant at the Castaways Resort. The staff were friendly and attentive offering us a seafront table. The menu offers fresh local produce.

Gladstone – The Dock at East Shores is a wonderful spot for a relaxed dinner – delicious seasonal food combined with spectacular night-time port views make it a “must do” when you visit this down to earth town.

Everything you need to discover beautiful Queensland!

Driving holidays are best way to see your back yard – read about our drive from Brisbane to Port Douglas and the places we visited on the way.

And, in case you missed it

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Driving holidays are the best way to see your backyard

2020 became the year of no International travel. Restrictions changed our original travel plans.  “That’s okay,  we’ll see more of our country. Driving holidays are the best way to see your backyard”, we thought.

It was not long before our plans had to change again. No interstate travel either! Instead of an interstate road trip, we decided our holidays were not only going to be shorter this year, but we were also going to have to be satisfied with travelling within our backyard. Lucky we have a huge backyard!

Queensland is a large state with much natural beauty. It’s home to the Great Barrier Reef, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, an unspoilt coastline and luscious rainforests. Visitors from the rest of Australia and overseas come to marvel at the state’s beautiful offerings.

“You’re driving to Port Douglas?”. Some were astounded that we would choose to drive when it is easier to fly.

“The inland route or coastal?”, was the next question. Driving through Queensland’s interior would be a good experience, however, we are drawn to the coastal road enabling us to drive shorter distances and stopovers in both smaller and larger towns.

Contrary to its name,  the Pacific Coast Highway (also known as the A1 or Bruce Highway) doesn’t run entirely along the coastline. The road runs a little inland most of the way between sugar cane and banana plantations, mango orchards and flat lands nipping alongside the sea every now and then.

We found many spectacular spots (often by chance), and stayed mostly in the main centres.

Bargara

A small seaside settlement a short distance from Bundaberg, Bargara is 375 kilometres from Brisbane and the perfect first overnight stop.

With a chance to experience the best of both worlds, we arrived with plenty of time to stroll along the banks of the Burnett River and the deserted streets of Bundaberg. Known for its famous rum and ginger beer, tours are available at both distillers.   We opted to absorb the atmosphere and architecture of the city by walking around the town before driving to The Hummock lookout between Bundaberg and Bargara, overlooking the vast countryside which is the food bowl of Queensland.

Other highlights are found on our walk the next morning. The Coral Coast Pathway leads along the Esplanade to the swimming basin built by indentured Kanaka labourers who worked on the sugar cane farms from 1863 to the early 1900s, then further on the Mon Repos trail which is home to the largest concentration of nesting turtles on the east coast of Australia. A “Good morning” by everyone we passed on the path was a sign of how welcoming the community here is to visitors.

Bargara
One of the small coves along the Bargara seafront

Yeppoon

On the Capricorn Coast, Yeppoon boasts an esplanade lined with chic boutiques and beaches with great views of nearby Keppel  Island. The quiet laidback atmosphere attracts weekenders from nearby Rockhampton and travellers like us from further afield.

Preferring to be more active than sitting on the beach, we were spoilt for choice with a number of walks in Byford National Park.

We spent an afternoon walking up the Double Head Track to two lookouts with breathtaking views over Rosslyn Bay Harbour, the Keppel Islands and Byfield National Park. While the views are enough of a drawcard, the track itself is a highlight taking walkers along paths lined with fig trees and fauna which change to open grasslands leading to the remnants of a volcano. The trail is steep in parts and takes 40-60 minutes depending on fitness level and the paths are very well laid. If you’re a photographer, the walk is definitely worth the effort.

Bluff Head, Yeppoon
Splendid views from Bluff Head in Yeppoon

Another walk we had hoped to do was the Bluff Point Walking Track. This shorter trail promised views out to the hinterland, along the coastline and the Keppel Bay Islands.  The morning sky was grey as we followed the route towards what we thought was the entry point only to find ourselves amidst a new housing development on the rise. Despite the fantastic views, the clouds were darkening so we decided to turn back. Our timing was not perfect, the skies opened up and we got drenched on the way back to the foreshore. Almost on queue, the sun came out as we sat down for breakfast.

Mackay

The drive to Mackay was flanked by sugar cane fields and not much else so the highlight was arriving in the city in time for lunch. There are few people out on the streets and many shops are closed. We’re unsure if this is normal!

We don’t waste time and are off to find the Botanic Gardens from where we connect to the Bluewater Trail. Twenty kilometres of cycling and walking tracks meander along the Pioneer River through riverside wetlands, along the environmental walk past some of the city’s main attractions. A number of art installations can be found on the way to the endpoint at Bluewater Lagoon water park just minutes from the city centre.

Pioneer walkway Mackay
The nature walk and cycleway in Mackay

Townsville

Our early arrival gives us plenty of time to get a feel for the coastal scene. Castle Hill is Townsville’s gem, providing visitors and locals alike with wonderful vistas over the city. Access to Castle Hill was only minutes away from our accommodation, and yes, we could have walked up. With no dedicated walking trail to the top and our priority to take an oceanfront walk later, we drove up and walked from lookout to lookout to remind us of how much more there was to this city.

Castle Hill, Townsville
Drive or walk up Castle Hill for expansive views across Townsville’s coastline

The real walk is along The Strand, up to Kissing Point and Jezzine Park and Barracks. The Strand is a relaxed walking and bicycling path along the foreshore and many locals are out for their evening walks. Even in the gusty conditions, it’s great to see so many people enjoying the facilities. Families are sheltering strategically with their takeaway fish and chips, couples are strolling with their prams, and runners too are out in force.

Jezzine Park and Barracks sit on and around the lookout at the end of the Strand boardwalk and are an important part of Townville’s history. It is a precinct created to commemorate the city’s military and Aboriginal heritage and worthy of a visit.

Jezzine Barracks Park
Jezzine Barracks Park

In the blustery conditions, we stop to watch a lone kayaker bravely try to get himself upright in the water before admitting defeat and returning to the shore. Likewise, we battle the wind back to our apartment to enjoy the views from the comfort of our sheltered balcony.

Cairns

The scenery changes. Everything is green. Sugar cane crops slowly give way to hillsides covered in lush rainforests.

A light drizzle that’s accompanied us into the city disappears after we have checked into our accommodation and we make the most of an afternoon walk along the esplanade discussing plans for our next couple of days in the city detouring through the Night Markets on the way back.

Cairns Esplanade
The varying scenery you’ll find along the esplanade in Cairns

A day in the Atherton Tablelands

The next morning dawns bright and sunny, perfect for our drive into the hinterland.

We’re headed over the range to Mareeba, a small rural town in the Atherton Tablelands region. The area is known as the food bowl of the tropics and produces 70% of Australia’s coffee crop and beautiful fruit wine.

About 45 minutes easy drive from Cairns we divert for a walk to Barron Falls. The pretty rainforest canopy trail ends at a lookout to the waterfalls. It’s springtime and the water trickles over the edge at the moment and will become a spectacular torrent in the wet season.

Barron Falls
Beautiful Barron Falls

Back on the Kennedy Highway, we drive past mango orchards, fruit farms, and tea and coffee plantations towards Mareeba. We’re disappointed to find Jacques Coffee plantation is closed (a result of the decline in tourism from the pandemic). We had hoped to take a tour.

We carry on to the next best option. Coffee Works has a number of small outlets throughout northern Queensland but Mareeba was where it all began. In what can be best described as a rustic shed a couple of minutes out of Mareeba town centre, a visit to this boutique roaster is a delight for the senses. Bins containing an array of coffee beans line the entrance to the gift and antique store. Further inside is a chocolaterie where up to 50 different chocolates are made. Ready to taste their signature coffee, we order and are kindly treated to a complimentary tasting of their divine chocolate and coffee liqueurs.

Coffee Works, Mareeba
Inside Coffee Works gift store at Mareeba

There is one more stop to make on the leisurely drive back to Cairns. de Brueys is a boutique winery a few kilometres out of Mareeba. Set among mango orchards and surrounded by nature, de Brueys specialise in tropical fruit wines and ports. A visit to their cellar door ensures we leave with a bottle of one of their signature lychee wines. A fruitful day in the Tablelands.

A day trip to Fitzroy Island

Fitzroy Island is larger but quieter than our other option, Green Island. Green Island has more to offer tourists and family groups with plenty of shops, cafes and tours. We have been there before as a family. Fitzroy Island, however, is the better choice if you’re looking to share the shoreline and tracks with fewer people and not travel too far from Cairns.

Crystal clear waters greet our arrival as we disembark the ferry in front of Fitzroy Resort. People are snorkelling and relaxing beachside. Our main aim of this visit is to walk to the summit so we start up straight away. The track is initially through the lush rain forest which slowly transforms into a rocky but well-laid out path uphill. We are amazed to meet only one other person on the trail. She is on the way back down. The climb up is relatively easy but we anticipate a slower trip down because of the rocky landscape.

Fitzroy Island
The captivating views from the walking trail to the summit on Fitzroy Island

Reaching the summit we are delighted to find only two other people at the lookout. Once they leave we are left to enjoy the expansive views on our own. It is truly spectacular!

As we are reluctantly preparing to make our descent, another couple appears. They tell us that we can take descend via another route with a stop at the old lighthouse. The walk is narrower and steeper in some places and the reward is a break at the lighthouse to enjoy the wonderful views out to sea before taking the steep, but paved trek down to the beach.

There’s more to see beachside. Further scrambling for about 15 minutes along a track and over boulders takes us to the highlight of Fitzroy Island. Nudey Beach is a small stretch of white sand where the clear waters gently lap the shoreline. Secluded and quiet it is the perfect place to swim and appreciate the views of Cairns hinterland. We, however, like the few others who have ventured here, do not swim. It is a little windy and too cold for us. It’s only spring!

Nudey Beach, Fitzroy Island
The golden sand and crystal clear waters at Nudey Beach

Port Douglas

Our Saturday morning starts with joining walkers and family groups along the esplanade and at Rusty’s Market in Cairns. The market is a feast for the eyes with stalls full of tropical fruit and fresh vegetables and we indulge in buying some Mareeba red pawpaw.

By lunchtime, we are in Port Douglas having driven along one of the most amazing stretches of our road trip hugging the coastline.

We’re staying at Peppers Beach Club, metres from the hub of this town, Macrossan Street. Quiet and laidback, it’s the perfect place for a little rest and relaxation before we embark on our return journey to Brisbane.

The highlight of Port Douglas is Four Mile Beach, a long stretch of white sand beach which is actually four kilometres long. One of the best places to appreciate it is from above at the summit on Flagstaff Hill. Our favourite view is from partway up the stairway to the top. From Flagstaff Hill, you can go back down and carry on along the one-and-a-half-kilometre walking trail linking to Rex Smeal Park. The trail provides sweeping views of the Coral Sea. We complete our walk to end up in the middle of the Sunday markets, a pleasant way to spend an hour or two wandering through the stalls before walking a little further to the marina area.

Four Mile Beach, Port Douglas
Spectacular Four Mile Beach

A short 20-minute drive from Port Douglas is the lush Daintree Rainforest. The best way to experience it is by taking a walk in it at Mosman Gorge. We enjoyed its beauty with a self-guided walk along the popular circuit trail. For a more informed visit, take advantage of the guided tours. Whichever way, it is a must-do. Enjoy walking under the canopy of the rainforest under the eye of the surrounding mountains stopping at the waterfalls along the way. A great way to spend an afternoon.

Mosman Gorge
One of the beautiful rainforest walking trails in Mosman Gorge

Our recommendations

Some of our favourite places to break up the drive

Many small spots captured our attention as we drove and were perfect for short driving breaks. We were delighted at finding so many! Following are just some of our recommendations.

Cooroy
Not far on our way out of Brisbane, we hit a traffic jam which worked in our favour. It allowed us to detour off the motorway for a stop in Cooroy to avoid sitting in traffic. We arrived during the mid-morning hustle and bustle to find charming old buildings some of which have been restored as interactive historical education spaces. We wandered through the old butter factory art centre and will return for a day trip to explore the heritage trail and other attractions nearby.

Cooroy Butter Factory
The old butter factory in Cooroy has been converted into an arts centre promoting local artists

Seventeen Seventy/Agnes Waters
1770 was the second place Captain James Cook landed on after Sydney’s Botany Bay. Despite its historical significance, it is a pretty spot to veer off to on the way to Yeppoon from Bargara. There are plenty of lookout points with walk tracks or simply take a stroll along the foreshore.

Clairview
A tiny seaside village just off the motorway, Clairview is a picturesque stop about 100 kilometres south of Mackay. The settlement sits alongside an unspoilt coastline of clear blue waters and golden sand and is also part of the dugong conservation area.

Clairview
The unspoilt beach in the tiny settlement of Clairview was a treat to stop at

Bowen
The highway is still surrounded by sugar cane on our way from Mackay to Townsville. Bowen (home of mangoes) is a small reprieve. It’s a quaint old town with wide streets, a courthouse and a town hall building reminding us of the past. A typical country pub with wide verandas seems to be inviting us to come in, sit back and enjoy a tipple. Instead, we drive on so we can explore Townsville.

Cardwell
Cardwell is the only town directly on the coast between Townsville and Cairns. Sitting just off the main road and overlooking Hinchinbrook Island it was the perfect place for a short driving break. We stopped to admire the views, the long jetty and the sculptures lining the foreshore.

Trinity Beach
Trinity Beach is a small seaside sanctuary just out of Cairns. We have stayed there on a previous visit and detoured for a short visit for old time’s sake. It is as we remember it, quiet and peaceful. We recommend staying there if you want to stay outside of the city but close enough to take advantage of what the city offers.

Palm Cove
We broke our short drive to Port Douglas with a stop in charming Palm Cove to savour the Melaleuca trees lining the esplanade, the boutiques and eating spots and another spectacular waterfront.

Palm Cove
The tree-lined promenade of Palm Cove

Our favourite places to eat

Mackay
Looking for somewhere to sit down for a light lunch, we were enticed into a Coco Cubano. The cafe serves Cuban-inspired food in a setting reminiscent of what we imagine Havana to be. It transforms into a cocktail lounge for its evening clientele. And, for dinner, try Sorbellos for a generous and authentic Italian meal. They have an extensive wine cellar if you’re a wine connoisseur.

Cairns
It’s lunchtime and the streets of Cairns are quiet. Normally bustling with tourists, we notice only a few people out on the city streets. Looking for somewhere to have lunch we stumble on what seems to be one of the city’s lunch hot spots, The Chambers. This cafe/restaurant is housed in a former bank building dating back to 1920. The outdoor areas, private rooms and main areas are stylish while maintaining the old charm. The menu is extensive and the food delicious and there’s a Friday lunchtime happy hour.

Our stay at the Pullman Reef Hotel Casino provided a generous credit towards a meal at Tamarind which is located within the casino complex. Elegant Asian fusion dining which lived up to its reputation. Stop by the bar located just inside to enjoy an aperitif before dinner and if you’re staying during the weekend, pop back for a nightcap and enjoy the live band.

Port Douglas
For a casual meal to complement the relaxed atmosphere of the town, enjoy a Thai meal at Star of Siam. The restaurant offers an extensive menu of fresh food.

Our verdict

Northern Queensland relies heavily on national and international tourism and 2020 has been particularly taxing financially on the tourist and hospitality industry there so we were delighted to be able to contribute in a small way to keeping hotels and other accommodation providers, cafes, restaurants and tourist attractions afloat during a difficult time. Everyone in both industries we met on our journey was appreciative and went beyond expectations to make sure we had a wonderful experience.

Of course, after our 1,400km drive north, we did have to return home. Yes, there is more to see. We’ll cover that part of our road trip in another post soon.

Dachau: A day trip from Munich

Teenage school children are wandering around the open grounds with their teachers. We are surprised to see them. Our initial feelings are that this is not a place for young adults.

After a few days exploring the beautiful Bavarian capital, Munich, we are almost ready to travel further north. A day trip is planned combined with collecting our car.

The Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site is a mere 25 kilometres from Munich and easily accessible by train or car and after visiting some of the more popular sights in Munich over the last few days, there is no excuse not to make the trip.

A feeling of trepidation and unease describes our mood on the short journey there. This is our first visit to a former Nazi concentration camp. We have no idea what to expect or how we will react.

Entrance to Dachau is free and there is the opportunity to take one of the two daily tours in English or hire an audio guide at a small cost. We opt to self-guide.

The entrance to the camp is a short walk from the Visitor Centre. Over the metal gate is an inscription “Arbeit Macht Frei” which translates to “Work makes you free”. We walk through the same gate through which thousands of prisoners entered.

The Dachau Concentration Camp holds a special significance in history. This was the Nazi regime’s first concentration camp and the prototype for subsequent camps. Established in March 1933 a few weeks after Adolf Hitler was appointed Chancellor of Germany, the camp was initially built to house political activists but evolved into a death camp holding Jews, artists and intellectuals, physically and mentally handicapped, and homosexuals, who Hitler thought were unfit for his new Germany.

The one remaining dormitory left on the site. All remaining dormitories were razed to commemorate those who suffered and died at the behest of the Nazi regime

Designed to house 6,000 people, the camp was used to house over 65,000 at the time of liberation at the end of April 1945. The camp was the longest-running of all the concentration camps with over 200,000 people imprisoned in the concentration camp and its subcamps over its 12-year existence.

While the gas chamber was never used, the crematorium was well used; malnutrition, disease, overwork and execution claimed one out of five prisoners, and some prisoners were subjected to brutal medical experiments.

Crematorium at Dachau concentration camp

Today, the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site is a place of remembrance. Visitors can freely walk around the walled grounds, visit the remaining dormitory and the museum which provides a historical chronology of events. There are several commemorative sites dedicated to different religions dotted around the grounds. We visit each and the museum which provides a detailed and graphic chronology of events within the camp walls.

The museum provides a graphic history of events

Tree-lined avenue to one of the Remembrance sites

The memorial site is a place of education. For those interested to learn more, the Education Department of the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site offers seminars and special guided tours dedicated to more isolated topics and offers guided tours for school classes.

Departing through the gate that many never had a chance to do, we agree this has been a sombre and sobering experience.

Should the schoolchildren have been visiting? On reflection we agree, to prevent a reoccurrence of this nature, this is the best place for a reminder and a history lesson on the atrocities of war.

Four fantastic cities to visit in The Netherlands

Our driving route in The Netherlands was inspired by a river cruise route

We are not ready for a river cruise and we want to see some of the smaller towns in Holland so we decided to drive part of the route on our way to Luxemburg parallel to the river route.

Our arrival was through Belgium. We had collected our car in Paris and made our way through northwestern France, Belgium and into The Netherlands for six days.

Not wanting to spend all our time in the bigger cities, we had researched some smaller towns to stop and spend time in:

  • Kinderdijk
  • Amersfoort
  • Thorn; and
  • Maastricht

Kinderdijk

Kinderdijk arrived on our list while we were deciding our first stop on the way to Amsterdam. A dull day was instantly brightened by the pretty towns and villages of southern Holland. Doorsteps were brimming pots filled with colourful flowers, as were the gardens.

Cyclists were ambling along the bicycle paths along the banks of waterways and along trails among the dykes. A small space in between some houses gave us our first glimpse. Not one, but half a dozen traditional windmills dotted around the countryside.

Rounding the corner past the village that we saw the extent of the complex. Nineteen working windmills set a typical postcard scene of the Dutch countryside.

On a cloudy afternoon, there were many visitors like us at the UNESCO World Heritage site. There are now pathways to walk or cycle for a close up look at the windmills and learn how the Netherlands has used them to drain their soil for habitation and cultivation for over a thousand years and the important part they still play today in a country where so much of the land is below sea level.

We recommend a visit to see these icons whether it be a day trip from Amsterdam or Rotterdam. Kinderdijk is 100km from Amsterdam and 25km from Rotterdam.

Kinderdijk windmills

Amersfoort

Amersfoort in central Holland has a quaint Old Town. Surrounded by a circular network of canals, we found the Old Town full of medieval buildings, small canals and alleyways opening into squares. It was easy to walk around and relatively people free during our visit. After the maddening crowds of Amsterdam, it was pleasant to take ourselves away from the tourist track and step back in time. There are several significant museums in the city, however, we were happy to wander and take in the atmosphere of the Old Town at our leisure.

Make a stop if you are driving from Amsterdam to Utrecht or further on.

Amersfoort

Thorn

Located in southern Holland, many come to see the extraordinary little “white town” of Thorn and to bicycle along the canals and around the town’s countryside. It was a sunny day, which made the whitewashed houses of Thorn even more impressive.

Most of the visitors were Dutch which made it even more special for us. Not a tour bus or group in sight. We were chuffed to have found this exclusive place which wasn’t overcrowded with tourists.

The town is not just scenic. It has a rich history back to the 10th century and, there is a story about why the houses are white. A beautiful abbey, established as a monastery for noblewomen is a centre point for the town and a wander down a tree-lined path at the end of the town takes you past country homes to a waterway lookout.

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Maastricht

We added Maastricht to our itinerary in the early stages of planning. The city appears on a number of river cruise itineraries.

Not only does the city have a history which dates back to the Neanderthals, but it also holds a place in modern history; the signing of the Maastricht Treaty in the city in 1992 lead to the creation of the European Union.

We put aside a couple of full days to stay and explore. The city was easy to walk around, we did not see any tour buses or groups during our stay and, not a riverboat came into sight on our walks along the riverbanks. We strolled through the town, along the narrow streets and squares on both sides of the Maas River while locals went about the daily business. There was plenty of people-watching and a walking tour with a local Greeter provided us with an insight into the history behind the churches, historic buildings and life in one of the oldest cities in Holland.

It was definitely worth stopping to stay than merely passing through on a day visit.

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Interested in including one or more of these cities on your itinerary? Look for more in-depth blogs on each city with our recommendations on what to see and do. Coming soon.

Why we love to drive. Are you ready to join us on the journey?

Preparations for our next travel and driving adventure are almost complete.

Setting our plan some months ago, we researched our destinations and thought we had come up with a pretty good driving route. We made sure our driving days would be leisurely and not too long. Most importantly, we must arrive at our destination before nightfall.

Over the months we have dedicated a great deal of time to read about our destinations, thought a little more about where we would like to dedicate more time (a hard decision to make as we would like to stay a little longer everywhere) and have made tweaks to our driving route. Our plan is now firm.

All this time and effort and we haven’t taken off yet! We could just sit back and enjoy the journey gazing through a coach or train window or let a tour operator determine our itinerary.

Here are 10 reasons why we choose to self-drive:

  1. We enjoy learning about where we are travelling to and when tailoring our own itinerary, we learn much more about everywhere we are going to.
  2. We decide when to leave. Unless it’s going to be a long driving day, we can still enjoy a morning walk to have a last look around the city or town before we hit the road. There is no 7am bags outside the hotel room, breakfast and on the coach at 8am for us.
  3. The backroads are more interesting to drive along than aiming to get from point A to B on a busy motorway. Just driving through little villages which lie off the beaten track can be enlightening.
  4. We get to pick where to stop for a coffee or lunch break. There are so many beautiful towns to pass through when we take the “toll-free” route. No stopping at a busy service area on the side of a motorway to line up at the restrooms, grab a quick bite to eat and gulp down a drink for us.
  5. There is always the opportunity for unplanned and spontaneous diversions. Sometimes someone we’ve met in the previous town has recommended an attraction devoid of tourists. How often we see something from the road then turn off the road to have a look.
  6. We love to turn on the radio and listen to local music. It’s an opportunity to move out of our comfort zone and listen to something new even if we can’t understand a word.
  7. We can randomly stop at the side of the road to enjoy a stunning view or taste grapes straight off the grapevine – the vineyards are often not fenced off!
  8. There’s no drifting off to sleep by the gentle roll of a coach or the clacking of a train on the tracks. We’re wide awake, there is so much to see.
  9. We have the pleasure of interacting with local people; even if it’s just to see the fear in their eyes when they realise you are unused to driving on the wrong side of the road. A smile, nod and a wave are sometimes all it takes.
  10. We get to drive a brand new car – a make which we have no intention to buy at home.

And so, for us, the first day on the road will be a little daunting. We’ll have to familiarise ourselves with driving on the “wrong” side of the road again. There is no doubt, we will be the slowest car in the “slow” lane. And, as much as we would like to, we won’t always be able to reach our destinations by the back roads.

We’ll get used to drivers honking their car horns at us! But we know that, unlike our drivers at home who honk and gesticulate loudly to show their displeasure when a driver makes an unintentional driving error, their European counterparts are just letting us know that they are coming up behind us ready to overtake. It’s not road rage, it’s part of the driving culture in Europe. Honk honk. “Hi, it’s Tony. I’m just about to overtake you on this blind corner. Wish me luck!”

And, even though we will have instructed our trusty GPS to avoid “no vehicle” and inner-city congestion charge zones, we’ll still somehow end up driving straight down The Mall towards Buckingham Palace!

Driving yourself means you can drive around the Arc de Triumph as many times as you want!

Travel is an adventure. We could just sit back and let someone else do the driving but there is no adventure in that!

We’ll be sharing our journey on Facebook and Instagram if you’d like to join us on our driving adventure. Follow us via the links above to make sure you don’t miss our “snap of the day” as we explore parts of eastern Europe.

One more thing …

If you’re travelling in Europe, look out for cars with the distinctive pink numberplate. They are travellers like us who lease their vehicle. More info on why and our preferred supplier here. We hope to see you on one of the many spectacular backroads in Europe.

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