Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

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Enjoy a “Little Italian” holiday in Switzerland

Want to experience a little bit of Italy in Switzerland? The best way to enjoy a “Little Italian” holiday in Switzerland is by staying in Lugano.

Why you should visit Lugano

The city of Lugano sits on the 50km-long Lake Lugano in the Italian-speaking Ticino region of southern Switzerland.

The blend of dramatic mountains and a beautiful glacial lake, coupled with the charm of an Italian town, makes Lugano the ideal place to spend a day or two.

With plenty of smaller towns dotted around Lake Lugano, the town of Lugano itself provides the perfect combination of a waterfront holiday and immersion into a charming old town.

Our favourite things to do in Lugano

Explore Lugano’s Centro Storico

We loved walking around Lugano’s Old Town. Full of charming squares and buildings, the streets are a delight. And, surrounded by colourful buildings and the Town Hall, Piazza Riforma is the heart of the town. Situated close to the waterfront, it’s the best place to settle into a cafe and enjoy a little people-watching.

Afterwards, pick one of the narrow streets that run off the Piazza to explore.

Lugano in Switzerland

Head higher in Lugano

The upper part of the Old Town is as charming as the ground level.

Be prepared to walk up plenty of steps to see parts of the town that most people miss. Then follow the streets further up to visit Lugano’s Cathedral of San Lorenzo.

Enjoy a "Little Italian" holiday in Switzerland
Steps leading to the upper old town in Lugano

Cathedral of San Lorenzo

Enter the Cathedral, and you’ll find a peaceful sanctuary filled with beautiful stained-glass windows, frescoed walls, and architecture dating back to the Middle Ages.

Inside the Cathedral di San Lorenzo in Lugano, Switzerland
Inside the Cathedral of San Lorenzo

Your reward for walking the distance up to the Cathedral is the panoramic view over the town and lake below.

The uphill walk deters most visitors, and it is likely that, like us, you’ll have the viewing terrace and the Cathedral almost to yourselves.

The views from the terrace of San Lorenzo Church above Lugano's old town are panoramic
Take in the panoramic views from the terrace outside San Lorenzo

Wander along the shopping street

Not far from the waterfront is Via Nassa. It’s Lugano’s main shopping street, lined with high-end boutiques and historic buildings.

Lugano, Switzerland

It’s a lovely street to walk along for a browse, but we preferred to veer into the more authentic side streets in the lower town to get a real feel of life in Lugano.

Walk along the tree-shaded promenade

The first thing we did when we arrived in Lugano was take a stroll along Lugano’s beautiful lakeside promenade. The tree-lined promenade gives the best ground-level aspect of the lake and the mountains towering over the town.

Views from the lakeside promenade of Lugano in Switzerland
Views from Lugano’s lakeside promenade
Views from the lakeside promenade of Lugano in Switzerland

The promenade was quiet when we first arrived in the late afternoon. By early evening, locals were out enjoying the traditional Italian passeggiata, taking time out from their evening walk to stop and chat with friends and acquaintances or sit on a park bench to enjoy the scenery and watch the world go by.

Other things to do in Lugano

While we didn’t have the opportunity to do the following activities, they come highly recommended if you have the time.

Spend time in Parco Ciani

Parco Ciani is a green space in the heart of the city. A large park with a mixture of manicured gardens and lawns modelled on English gardens, and plenty of trees that have been in their spot for centuries, it’s a quiet place to retreat to.

Visit inside Santa Maria degli Angioli – fresco

Originally part of a Franciscan monastery, the church is renowned for its fresco, which covers the whole nave, “The Passion and Crucifixion of Christ”.

Monte Bre funicular

For some of the best views over Lake Lugano, take the 15-minute funicular train ride up to the summit of Monte Bre.

Enjoy the panorama before walking a further 15 minutes to the village of Bre, and, if time permits, continue the 2.5-hour hike down to the town of Gandria.

Where we stayed

For our one-night stay, we booked a room in GuestHouse Lugano Centre by LR. Located just over one kilometre from the city centre, our room was comfortable, and breakfast was included.

Where we dined

Most shops and restaurants are closed on Sundays in Switzerland. Lugano was no exception.

Wandering down from the Cathedral, we found a small cafe serving piadine. Piadina is a typical Italian snack, a thin flatbread sandwich which can be filled with all types of meats and vegetables. Delicious with a cold beer on a hot summer evening in Switzerland.

Our conclusion

Although short, we thoroughly enjoyed the laid-back atmosphere in Lugano. Even at the height of summer, the town wasn’t overcrowded with tourists. Lugano seemed more of a holiday destination for Italians, who could enjoy the combination of water and small-town activities, than a tourist hotspot for international holidaymakers.

The streets, atmosphere, and food around the town were typically Italian. It’s the perfect way to enjoy a “Little Italian” holiday in Switzerland.

In case you’re interested

Planning a trip to Switzerland?

Our travels have taken us to other towns and cities in Switzerland, which we believe are worth visiting.

Take a look at our recommendations by clicking on the links below.

Why you must see the breathtaking beauty of St Moritz

We stepped off the Glacier Express in St Moritz. A resort town known for its glitz and glamour, we were here to see the other side of the town. Read about why you must see the breathtaking beauty of St Moritz.

Why you should visit St Moritz

St Moritz is best known for skiing and other winter alpine sports. What most people don’t realise is how picturesque it is in the summer months, with a variety of scenic trails to hike when the weather is warmer.

Our time in St Moritz was during the summer, when the temperature was more conducive to seeing the town surrounded by mountain peaks, lush and green, without the snow.

Our favourite things to do in St Moritz

Meander through the St Moritz-Dorf town centre

St Moritz-Dorf is the historic main town centre, which sits above the lake and is accessible by escalator from the train station. The compact town centre is easily walkable, but be prepared for a few steep streets, especially after you emerge from the escalator.

The Leaning Tower of St Moritz

St  Moritz's Leaning Tower
St Moritz’s Leaning Tower

The Leaning Tower, a 12th-century church tower, is one of St. Moritz’s historical landmarks. Over time, soil erosion has caused the tower to lean. The Tower was part of the St Mauritius Church, which was demolished in the late 19th century.

Hotel Kulm

Visit the original alpine playground, the five-star Hotel Kulm. The hotel opened in 1856 and has played a central part in the introduction of alpine winter tourism to Moritz. It’s one of Switzerland’s most famous hotels, hosting an array of celebrities over the years.

Hotel Kulm in St Moritz, Switzerland
The impressive Hotel Kulm

The hotel sits in a prime position perched over Lake St Moritz.

Treat yourself at Hanselmanns Konditorei

The beautifully painted building housing Hanselmanns Konditorei in St Moritz, Switzerland
The beautifully painted building housing Hanselmanns Konditorei

Step inside this elegant coffeehouse to sample its exquisite baked goods and delicious coffee. Purchase the legendary Engadine nut cake or chocolates to take home as gifts. It’s located in the main square.

Chocolate selection at Hanselmanns Konditorei in St Moritz, Switzerland
Chocolate selection at Hanselmanns Konditorei in St Moritz, Switzerland

Take a peek at Lake St Moritz

Wandering around the town, you’ll find lots of opportunities to take a peek at Lake St Moritz and the scenery below the town from improvised balconies

St Moritz Lake and mountain views from a quiet spot in St Moritz town
St Moritz Lake and mountain views from a quiet spot in St Moritz town

Stroll around Lake St Moritz

For an easy walk with views to St Moritz and the Alps, the 4.4km trail leading around Lake St Moritz is the place to go. From the train station, follow the “Seerundweg” signs that lead you around the lake.

Why you must see the breathtaking beauty of St Moritz. Views over Lake St Moritz and township, St Moritz, Switzerland.
Views over the lake and St Moritz township

In the summer, you’ll find sailboats and paddleboarders enjoying the vivid blue waters, while in the winter, the lake freezes over. If you happen to be in St Moritz in early February, you’ll be fortunate to experience a unique annual event: the White Turf Horse Races.

Over three consecutive Sundays, thoroughbred horses thunder across the frozen lake in a competition with both their daring jockeys and the horses trying to maintain balance and speed.

If you’re visiting in the summer, take a look through the binoculars at the viewpoint at the town end to see St Moritz Lake as it is in the winter.

Walk to Lake Staz

If you want to extend your walk around Lake St Moritz, take a detour to Lake Staz. Once again, the route is well signposted at Lake St Moritz. Follow the “Lej de Staz” signs.

The forest path between Lake St Moritz and Lake Staz in St Moritz, Switzerland
The forest path between Lake St Moritz and Lake Staz

A combination of gravel and paved paths takes you through a forest, before emerging in front of this beautiful lake surrounded by the Stazerwald Forest. In the summer, you’ll find holidaymakers swimming or gathering at the picnic area or the hotel/restaurant at the edge of the lake.

Forest and mountain views from Lake Staz in St Moritz, Switzerland
Forest and mountain views from Lake Staz

Continue the loop around the lake back onto the path into the forest before rejoining the walk around St Moritz Lake.

You’ll find that Lake Staz is smaller and more intimate than some of the other lake walks around St Moritz.

Lake Staz in St Moritz, Switzerland
Serenity and spectacular forest and mountain views from Lake Staz

Other things to do in St Moritz

  • Hike around Lake Silvaplana (located 6km southwest of St Moritz). Popular for kite and windsurfing.
  • Take an early morning walk around Lake Sils (located 10km from St Moritz). Popular for water sports.
  • Hike or cycle some of the numerous mountain trails close to the town.
  • Take the cable car up to Piz Nair or the funicular to Muottas Muragi to admire the views.
  • Visit the Segantini Museum to see the masterpieces of Italian artist Giovanni Segantini, who spent the last years of his life in the Engadine. The artist who painted the region’s alpine scenery was so loved that this museum was constructed in his honour.
The Segantini Museum building in St Moritz, Switzerland
Outside the Segantini Museum building

Where we stayed

St Moritz town centre lives up to its reputation of being a glamorous town at any time of the year. You’ll find the town dotted with high-end hotels, but there are also a variety of more budget-friendly hotels, chalets and apartments throughout the town.

We booked an apartment in the heart of the town. As with most accommodation in alpine resort towns, our apartment was compact but functional.

Where we dined

After the indulgent seven-course meal during our journey on the Glacier Express from Zermatt to St Moritz, we decided to have a light meal at our apartment on our first evening. The Co-op supermarket in the old town offers plenty of choices.

La Stalla, St Moritz, Switzerland

The next evening, we booked a table at La Stalla. Located a stone’s throw from our apartment, the restaurant serves Swiss and Engadine specialities and the best pizza in town! The alpine decor provides a warm surrounding to relax over a hearty meal.

Restaurant La Stalla in St Moritz has a reputation for their wonderful pizzas

Our conclusion – Why you must see the breathtaking beauty of St Moritz

St Moritz town centre was smaller than we expected and easy to navigate around. We visited during the summer, so there were fewer visitors than in the winter months when winter sports enthusiasts flock to the town.

With fewer visitors in town, we were able to experience St Moritz more like a local and chat with the townsfolk. An interesting fact: they told us that over the last couple of years, the Winter Turf Race has had to be cancelled because the lake doesn’t freeze over as it used to: A beloved tradition endangered by warming conditions.

Above all, it was the stunning natural scenery that we most appreciated.

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