Fresh off a morning arrival on our flight into Frankfurt, we hopped into our car and headed north. We were driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed route is divided into two parts.
The Rhine Castle route
We would drive the first half to Koblenz and stay there for a couple of days before completing the second half to Bonn. Koblenz, situated at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle rivers in the Upper Rhine Valley, is one of Germany’s oldest cities. The Mitterhein wine region also runs between Bingen and Bonn.
Driving the scenic Rhine Castle and Romantic Rhine route
The drive from Bingen to Koblenz
Dotted with over 40 castles, the route is also part of the Rhine Valley wine region. The city of Mainz, approximately a 90-minute drive from Frankfurt, serves as the gateway to the wine region, while the Castle route begins from the town of Bingen. Bingen is a sleepy town with a lovely main street with cafes and restaurants. We stopped to have lunch there before continuing.
From Bingen onwards is a real treat for anyone wanting to drive this route. The road winds its way alongside the river while riverboats slip gently past. Along the way, there are castles and fortresses on high peaks or set lower amongst the vineyards on both sides of the river. While it isn’t practical to visit all the castles, nor are many open to the public, it was fun driving along, spotting them all. The drive between Bingen and Koblenz should only take an hour; however, to enjoy the scenery, making short stops at designated viewing points and allowing yourself a detour to a castle or two on the way, you should allow at least two to three hours.
The fairytale Philippsburg Castle in Marksburg on the Rhine Castle route
With so many castles and options, we strategically chose a few spots to look out for on the route.
Burg Reichenstein
Sankt Goar (Rheinfels Castle), from where you can look across to the Lorelei
At Boppard, we stopped to look across the river to Sterrenberg Castle
After Boppard spotted Marksburg Castle
Looked out for Stozenfels Castle just before arriving in Koblenz
A visit to Schonberg Castle
A castle that wasn’t on our list, but we couldn’t resist visiting after seeing it perched on the hillside from afar, was Schonberg Castle. A short distance off the main road in the town of Oberwesel, we wound our way up the hill to the castle’s car park.
Outside Schonburg Castle walls
The castle, a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, was built in the 12th century; however, there are records of a dwelling on the site in 900 AD. From the car park, it’s a couple of minutes walk to the small arched entrance into the cobbled carriage path and inside the castle walls, from where a narrower walkway continues into the castle courtyard.
Schonburg Castle courtyard and entrance
The Dukes of Schonburg and their families lived in the castle from the 12th century until 1689, when much of it was destroyed by troops during the Nine Years’ War. Partially reconstructed in the late 19th century, it wasn’t until the town purchased it in 1950 that it was completely revived.
The castle is now a 4-star hotel, Burghotel Auf Schonburg, with a museum in the castle tower, which is open to the public. The castle’s gardens are, however, available for only hotel guests to roam. For others, there is a vantage point overlooking the Rhine River, giving you splendid views. The picturesque scenery from above was worth making the small detour and was one of the highlights of our drive.
View from Schonburg Castle lookout
There is also a small lookout before entering or after exiting the castle walls, from where there are excellent views of the grapevines of the hills of the valley behind the castle.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress in Koblenz
In Koblenz, we had anticipated taking a morning walk up to Ehrenbreitstein Fortress high on the hillside over the city from the other side of the Rhine River. Unfortunately, there was no easy way to cross the river on foot.
Instead, we waited until after we returned from our day excursion to the beautiful town of Cochem, to go across by cable car to look around the fortress. The cable car ride provides fabulous views over Koblenz’s old town.
Ehrenbreitstein Fortress is a complex of buildings sprawling over a large area of the eastern bank. The fortress buildings are now home to the State Museum, displaying antiques and war memorabilia.
If you’re not a museum-lover, you can take a wander around the extensive fort area, savouring the views, especially from the viewing platform, which is a piece of art itself. The triangular-shaped wooden platform was originally built for a Horticultural exhibition, then repurposed and placed on the fortress’s grounds. From the platform, you get spectacular views of Koblenz, the Rhine and Moselle Rivers.
The Rhine Castle route from Koblenz to Bonn
The Rhine Castle route is determined to run from Bingen to Bonn. However, we were disappointed not to find any noteworthy castles or fortresses on the drive along the Rhine River between Koblenz and Bonn. Maybe they are well hidden from the roadside.
Our opinion
The first section of our drive, between Bingen and Koblenz, mesmerised us with the centuries-old, magnificent castles and fortresses as well as the terraced vineyards on the rolling hills on both banks of the Rhine River. The entire journey is picture-postcard worthy, and we would consider driving again at a much slower pace, making more stops and detours to visit select castles.
Note: Some castles and fortresses charge an entrance fee to visit inside.
In case you’re interested
During our journey, we stopped in the beautiful old town of Mainz, stayed in the historic city of Koblenz, which dates back to 8 BC, and from Koblenz, took a day trip to the charming town of Cochem, located along the Moselle River. Click on the links below to read more about these beautiful places in Germany.
Days 35 and 36 of walking the full Camino de Santiago were our last on the Camino route. The distances were shorter than the past two days, and the trail led us through green pastures and farming country towards our destination, Santiago de Compostela.
Day 35 – Arzua to A Rua (O Pino)
We started our day in Pazo Santa Maria’s restaurant. The table was laden with food, including homemade butter and jams, Arzua cheese and freshly made scrambled eggs.
Breakfast at Pazo Santa Maria
Stomachs filled, we caught the sun rising over the countryside before our hotel driver returned us to the main town and the Camino route.
All the regular hikers we’d seen since Sarria were already on their way. Everyone was wrapped up against the cold, but it wasn’t long before the cloud cover burned off, revealing the sun and warmth.
Dry forest trails filled with more pilgrims as the morning wore on and the celebratory atmosphere continued. Musicians had set themselves up along the track, and pilgrims stopped for a break and listened.
Stopping to listen to musicians on the Camino trail
Despite the shorter walking distance, we continued our ritual and stopped after a couple of hours to take our shoes off, let our feet breathe, and rest while we ate protein bars.
We caught up with the “Quiet Americans” back on the path. He was still walking with discomfort. She told us that since she had recovered from her injury on Day 21, he was using one of her poles to assist with the final part of their Camino. They would stay overnight in O Pedroouza, the next town from O Rua.
We passed through several pretty villages before reaching O Pino just before lunchtime; a few steep climbs, but on the whole, it was a pleasant short walking day.
O Pino
Rounding the corner on a shaded path, we found ourselves at a fork in the road. The path to our right led to our hotel. The left path took us into the charming village of O Pino. We decided to follow the lane lined with colourful homes and beautiful gardens, hoping to find a place for coffee and lunch.
Beautiful country lanes
With no cafes or restaurants in sight, we thought we would have to turn back to have lunch at our hotel, but suddenly, a lovely restaurant with tables arranged in a spacious, shaded grassy area appeared. It was the perfect spot to eat and rest before we went to our accommodation.
We settled at an outdoor table, ordered our lunch and watched pilgrims come and go. Our delicious salad was a combination of greens, mangoes, avocado, nuts and seeds.
A Rua
After lunch, we backtracked along the lane and turned towards the main road and our hotel on the outskirts of the town. It wasn’t far away, and before long we had checked in, unpacked, completed our yoga and showered.
A Rua is a small village (pop 50), and with little else to do, we read for a while in the small sitting area at the end of our hallway. The hotel was full. Noisy guests, both pilgrims and holidaying families, came and went between the floors. We retreated to our room to watch a couple of episodes of The Crown before going downstairs.
There’s a cosy outdoor area outside the hotel entrance where we had a glass of wine and journaled before dinner. The hotel restaurant served us a delicious meal of grilled vegetables, lentil soup, fish, Santiago cake and rice pudding.
Another episode of The Crown rounded off our relatively relaxed second-to-last day on the Camino de Santiago.
Our accommodation
Hotel O Pino looked simple from the roadside; we didn’t have high expectations. However, we found the hotel comfortable and full of character. In addition to the elegant sitting room on our floor, the hotel provided a couple of outdoor retreats for guests.
Arriving at Hotel O Pino
Our room was spacious and comfortable.
Walking statistics
18km
5 hours, including a lunch stop
Day 36 – A Rua (O Pino) to Santiago de Compostela
It was our last day of walking the full Camino de Santiago. Most of us would finish our Camino in Santiago de Compostela, others would continue after Santiago to Finisterre and the Atlantic Ocean, and some would even continue to complete another Camino route. Although Santiago de Compostela was still 22km away, we all felt we were almost there.
We woke at 6:30 am to shower and pack before breakfast in the restaurant at 7:30 am. The restaurant was bustling with pilgrims eager to be on their way.
The path was quiet when we started walking at 8:00 am. Many pilgrims had left early to reach Santiago de Compostela in time to attend the midday Pilgrim’s Mass in the Cathedral.
Pilgrims on the last day of walking the Camino de Santiago
We left the hotel behind a group of three families walking together. Everyone was chatting jovially, the younger members walking a little ahead of their elders.
A Rua
Country lanes with small homes, vegetable patches, and small watering stops accompanied us as we passed through A Rua township and onward through the settlements of O Pedrouzo and Amenal.
Eucalyptus and oak trees appeared, and we caught a few last moments of peace walking along the forest trail without any pilgrims.
Unexpected quiet forest trails on our last day of walking the full Camino de Santiago
Just before San Paio, there was a large engraved stone Camino sign. We couldn’t resist taking a photo of ourselves with it as a reminder of our odyssey.
Making memories!
San Paio
While only a small hamlet, we were attracted to turn off the trail by the quaint bell tower of the small San Paio de Buscas Church for a closer look. It was also an opportunity to have our morning tea and rest at the cafe across the path.
The pretty San Paio de Buscas Church
While not mentioned in our guide, quite a few pilgrims were visiting inside the pretty stone church. Our research tells us the church is dedicated to San Paio, a 14-year-old saint who was kidnapped by the invading Muslim troops, taken to Seville and martyred before being tossed into the Guadalquivir River.
A chance meeting
Aubern, the young French pilgrim we had met intermittently while walking the full Camino de Santiago, emerged from the church as we arrived. We had last met him in El Burgo Ranero on Day 20. Although Santiago wasn’t far from San Paio, and unlike many of us, Aubern planned to arrive in the cathedral square the next day. For him, it would be Day 90 on the Camino. As he had told us when we first met, he had started his Camino walk from his home city of Paris.
We discussed his plans to continue walking on Finisterre, Murcia, and return to Santiago de Compostela. He had good news; he and Manu, one of his fellow young pilgrims, had connected. She had returned home after completing her planned section of the Camino, but was returning to walk the remainder of Aubern’s Camino with him. Even better news: Aubern had used the solitude of his time on the Camino to reassess his career path and found a new direction.
We were unlikely to see him again, so we wished Aubern well and waved goodbye. He was off to find an albergue for the night.
Lavacolla and Vilamaior
The Camino route travels around the Santiago de Compostela Airport runway before returning into the forest. On the forest trail just outside San Paio, a lone bagpiper set the scene for our arrival in Santiago de Compostela. There was a sense of celebration in the air!
There were still more forest tracks to follow, though. Throughout our last walking day, parts of the trail were strenuous enough for our hiking poles to come out.
Galician horreos
Horeros were still scattered in the small towns, and an unfamiliar sight on the Camino, what seemed to be a hand-painted protest sign, was prominently placed on the main path through the small settlement of Vilamaior, 10km from Santiago de Compostela.
Monte del Gozo
We arrived at Monte del Gozo, just 5km from Ground Zero (Cathedral Square). It’s at the lookout, where pilgrims see the Cathedral’s spires in the distance, that reality sinks in. We were nearly there!
There are two other reasons to stop at Monte del Gozo. A large monument to celebrate the 1993 Holy Year stands at the crest. Close by, there is a small chapel. It’s the last opportunity for pilgrims to get their Pilgrim’s Passport stamp and qualify for their Compostela Certificate.
The approach to Santiago de Compostela
The last part of the road after Monte del Gozo was downhill through the city’s outskirts before we found ourselves at the Santiago de Compostela sign. One step closer to the Cathedral and its square, where, 10 years before, we had first experienced the elation of pilgrims arriving and committed to walking the Camino de Santiago someday.
The first indication that we had almost arrived was the colourful “Santiago de Compostela” sign that everyone was lining up to have their photo taken at. We had a couple of photos snapped of ourselves as a memento, too.
Nearly there – we couldn’t resist a photo at this colourful sign
The remainder of the walk continued along the main road. Bakery staff stood outside their stores, welcoming pilgrims with samples of Santiago Cake.
The final few steps walking the full Camino de Santiago
The road led us into the narrower streets of the old town, then finally past some of the rather imposing but beautiful administrative buildings in the smaller square, down the steps into the small tunnel where bagpipers welcomed pilgrims and visitors into Plaza de Obradoiro (Cathedral Square).
Entering Plaza de Obradoiro
The entrance into the square with the bagpipers playing is a moving experience for both pilgrims and bystanders alike. We were glad to arrive on a bright and sunny day, unlike our first visit to the square 10 years earlier.
The Plaza was relatively quiet when we arrived at 12:30 pm. Most pilgrims were inside the Cathedral de Santiago, attending the pilgrims’ mass. We took photos for other arriving pilgrims and had some taken of ourselves in front of the towering church that dominates the square.
Ground Zero – Plaza de Obradoiro
It wasn’t quiet for long. Moments later, pilgrims and worshippers emerged from the Cathedral, filling the square, embracing and congratulating each other. A sense of community and spirit that only those who have walked a Camino will experience.
Collecting our Compostela Certificate
With the busyness around the Cathedral and the Square, we decided to leave a visit to the Cathedral until later. Instead, we went straight to the Pilgrim’s Office, a street away, to pick up our Compostela. Our Pilgrims Passports were filled with more than the necessary number of stamps; we had accumulated as we made our way from Saint-Jean-de-Pied-Port to Santiago de Compostela.
While snaking outside the entrance, the queue wasn’t as long as we expected and moved quickly. Pilgrims’ Passports and our details, including the reason for our walking the Camino, and we were issued our beautiful Compostela, inscribed in Latin.
We returned to the street, Compostela in hand, to search for a lunch venue. Many of our Camino colleagues were already basking in the sunshine and lunching in the cafes outside. Our newfound Australian friend, Wendy, and her Hungarian and Korean companions greeted us warmly. They had arrived in Santiago at 9:00 that morning.
The “Quiet Americans” sat at the cafe we chose. We congratulated them, introduced ourselves to each other and chatted about the Camino experience. Shannon and Mike left that same evening to go on holiday to Porto, Portugal, for a few days before returning home.
Passing time in Santiago de Compostela
Our accommodation was conveniently located in Plaza de Obradoiro, and after lunch, we headed straight there to see if we could check in. Hotel reception told us that our room would be ready at 3:00 pm, so with an hour to kill, we decided to walk around the Mercado de Abastos before finding an outdoor table in a small square to enjoy a celebratory beer.
Once checked in, we did a yoga session, shower, and stepped out of the hotel at 5:30 pm, crossing the Plaza to visit the Cathedral. Pilgrims were still arriving, and the atmosphere was festive. Having visited the Cathedral on our last visit, 10 years earlier, we thought it would be quick; however, once inside, we took the opportunity to queue and pay homage to the remains of St James and the statue in the crypt. Unlike last time, kissing the statue is no longer permitted.
Inside the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela
A celebratory final evening in Santiago de Compostela
Catching up with pilgrim friends
Louise, whom we had not seen since leaving Palas de Rei, had been in touch, suggesting we catch up for a drink to celebrate completing the Camino de Santiago. We met her in Plaza de Immaculada after visiting the 9th-century parish church, Parroquia de Nosa Señora la Antigua da Corticela, part of the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela.
Enjoying our catch-up in our hotel bar, and reflecting on our Camino journeys, David and Catherine from Yuva City, Sacramento, whom we had met many days earlier, walking into Ponferrada, came past. Their friend, whom they were rushing to meet in Sarria, was with them. They had completed the Sarria to Santiago de Compostela sector of the Camino together.
Our final meal after walking the full Camino de Santiago
We returned to Plaza de Immaculada and down a small street brimming with holidaymakers and pilgrims dining at pulpo restaurants to find ourselves in a delightful square surrounded by colourful garden beds. An Italian restaurant on the other side of the square was the perfect place for a pizza dinner.
Stumbling across old friends
On our way back to Plaza de Obradoiro and our hotel after dinner, we were surprised to see Veronika, our Mexican friend whom we hadn’t seen since Day 22 in Leon. Veronika and Kevin. too, had arrived early for mass. Veronika was excited to have accomplished her lifelong wish to walk the full Camino de Santiago.
Dancing in front of the Cathedral
Cathedral Square was alive with people singing and dancing in a circle. We stopped to watch. The majority were from a large Oregon and Montana contingent that had just attended the World Youth Day gathering in Lisbon.
The Catholic Youth gathering is held every three years in different cities around the world. Members of the contingent enthusiastically shared that the highlight of their trip was Pope Francis’s attendance at this gathering. We saw the youngsters again in the hotel lobby the next morning. They had stayed overnight, and we left carrying their takeaway breakfasts
We enjoyed the festivities a little longer before crossing the square to our hotel. It had been a big day, and we were ready to sink into our luxurious bed for a restful sleep before catching the train to Madrid.
Our accommodation
For our last night and to celebrate our completion of walking the full Camino de Santiago, we had requested our Australian travel arrangers, UTracks, to reserve us a hotel room in one of Spain’s most luxurious Paradors, Parador of Santiago de Compostela.
Our accommodation, Parador de Santiago de Compostela
The hotel was originally built in 1499 to accommodate pilgrims with more modest accommodations. Today, guests can still visit the four beautiful cloisters and see some of the original rooms.
One of the four cloisters inside the Parador de Santiago de Compostela
It was the perfect way to spend our last night of walking the full Camino de Santiago.
Highlights of the day
And, so it was. We had completed walking the Camino de Santiago, nearly 800km from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Santiago de Compostela. We were elated to have completed a challenge we had set for ourselves 10 years earlier on our first visit to Santiago de Compostela.
Of greater impact was meeting up with some of the pilgrims we journeyed with at different stages of the walk. There were many we didn’t re-encounter and whom we missed congratulating. We hoped they had completed their Camino safely.
Walking statistics
22km
5.5 hours including a rest break
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.
Follow our 36-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.
Having compiled our chronology of walking the full Camino de Santiago, we’ll share our reflections and noteworthy suggestions from our experience. Subscribe to our email list to receive the post straight to your inbox when it’s published.
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Days 33 and 34 of walking the full Camino de Santiago involved long distances. The route varied between forest paths and roadside tracks with moderate ascents. As we approached our final destination, lots of pilgrims filled the paths.
Day 33 – Portomarin to Palas de Rei
When we emerged from our hotel to start our walking day, the air was cool, and there was fog. Both accompanied us for a couple of hours as we navigated the forest paths passing through the small village of Castromaior and continued to walk uphill gradually.
Fog added another dimension to the start of our walking day
When we finally reached the hillside pastures, the fog cleared, revealing a beautiful blue sky. Pillows of clouds hung over the valley below.
Views once the skies cleared
Pilgrims on the trail
There continued to be plenty of walkers on the trail from Portomarin. Many walked hurriedly past us, including Louise, who had found a new walking partner. We continued at our pace, ensuring our legs didn’t tire. As the morning wore on, we found we had caught up and passed most of the pilgrims who had rushed past us earlier. It was then that we found times of quiet and could enjoy the scenery.
Conversations on The Way
There are moments while walking the full Camino de Santiago when you connect with fellow pilgrims and share the journey, comparing experiences along the way. A short distance outside of the hamlet of Ligonde, we heard a familiar accent from one of the two women walking ahead of us.
Pilgrims on the track
A “Buen Camino” greeting initiated the conversation. Wendy, from Western Australia, was on her first visit to Europe and, like us, had started her Camino in St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Her walking companion, a Hungarian and an English teacher, was practicing her English while sharing lessons on European history as they walked. Both had begun their journey at 5:30 am and were in no hurry.
Palas de Rei
With a population of under 1000 inhabitants, Palas de Rei is principally a farming town, but despite the agricultural surroundings, the walk into the town was scenic. Our arrival was well-timed. Our accommodation was right on the trail, so we called in to see if our luggage had arrived before continuing to have lunch in town.
The Camino de Santiago trail winds through the town, which provides excellent facilities for pilgrims. Many walkers were on the town’s main street when we stopped for lunch before returning to settle into our accommodation.
Iglesia de San Tirso de Palas de Rei on the main street of the town
We found our Australian and Hungarian ladies at the supermarket. Since we had left them earlier in the day, they had collected another companion, a young acupuncturist from Korea. They had found an albergue to stay the night in and finished their Pilgrim’s Meal (Menu del Peregrino).
Apart from the main street, there was little else to see in the town, so we passed some time wandering through the supermarket looking at the different Spanish products and bought a nice bottle of local wine before returning to our accommodation to shower and settle in.
A relaxed afternoon and evening
Our room in the bed and breakfast was small (more about our accommodation below), but we managed to find space to complete our yoga and stretching before showering. Feeling refreshed, we headed downstairs to enjoy some time on the lovely patio. The temperature was more pleasant than the evening before in Portomarin.
Relaxing on the covered patio of Casa Leopoldo
Our three hosts sat at one end of the large outdoor table quietly chatting while stringing fresh beans from their garden. Kiwifruit hung from the vine-covered roof of the patio above us. We sat at the other end, enjoying the gentle hum of their voices over a glass of wine and journaled.
Our evening meal was at a restaurant around the corner. It was early evening, so we were the first diners to arrive at A Reloxeria. It wasn’t long before the other tables filled with locals. The restaurant’s attentive staff warmly welcomed us into their casually decorated restaurant.
They then proceeded to serve us our dinner. We had a well-presented and flavourful meal starting with a cheese and charcuterie platter, followed by a greens salad including sundried tomato, nuts, berries, and cheese, then a main of spinach and prawns with scrambled eggs. Walnut ice cream accompanied the Santiago cake, completing our meal.
Our evening ended with a relaxed hour lying in bed watching some Netflix on our tablet.
Our accommodation
One of our lovely hosts ushered us into our lodgings when we arrived. The living room where she greeted us and completed formalities was exquisitely decorated and set the scene for what was to come.
The charming stone house, Casa Leopoldo, is owned by three sisters. Their niece (who speaks English) welcomed and ushered us up the stairs to our room. We couldn’t help but look up and linger over the frescoed wallpaper on the ceilings. There are six en-suite bedrooms upstairs.
A glimpse of the exquisite decor of our accommodation, Casa Leopoldo
Our room was small but tastefully decorated, offering all that we needed. Additionally, we had access to a beautiful living room and patio. Our delicious breakfast the following morning was sitting in the warm and cosy kitchen at the large communal table.
While we heard other guests arrive after we went to bed, we didn’t meet them as we had breakfast and left before them the next morning.
Walking statistics
26km
7 hours, including a rest break
Day 34 – Palas de Rei to Arzua
We were up at 6:00 am to prepare for a long day of walking.
Our day started at Casa Leopold’s large kitchen table, where we were served a delicious breakfast by our hosts, who must have been up at the crack of dawn to prepare the array of breakfast offerings.
While there was much on offer, we filled up on Casa Leopold’s speciality, Pilgrim’s Eggs (poached egg over mashed potato and caramelised onions), toast served with local butter and homemade jam, finished with fresh fruit (watermelon, bananas, oranges and kiwifruit). The homemade cake looked appealing, but we were too full to partake.
On the road to Arzua
Bidding our wonderful hosts farewell from the house’s cosiness, we stepped out into a cold and cloudy day to start walking to Arzua. Our raincoats provided extra protection against the cold, and we were warm inside from the hot breakfast.
Again, there are plenty of pilgrims leaving Palas de Rei with us. Before long, we walked along forest tracks, through a village and were right back into the forest again. About 90 minutes into our walking day, the clouds cleared.
The serene start to our walking day
There’s a fair amount of steep climbing and descending, but without the rocks, the hike isn’t as challenging as some of our earlier days of walking the full Camino de Santiago.
Leboreiro
The landscape flattened out, and we walked along paths lined with eucalyptus trees before arriving in Leboreiro. From the 11th to the 13th centuries, this town was a major stop for Camino pilgrims. As we passed, there was no sign of its popularity or inhabitants..
Melide
A four-arched medieval bridge, Puente de San Xoan, led us into and through another small village, Furelos, and into the outskirts of Melide.
The medieval bridge leading into Furelos
In contrast to Leboreiro and Furelos, Melide was buzzing and busy. Despite it being a Sunday morning, the town centre was busy. Families were gathered at cafes, queues formed outside bakeries, pavements were crowded, and traffic flowed along the streets. Peregrinos added to the hustle and bustle.
Welcome to Melide
Sunday in Melide
Pulpo in Melide
Melide has a reputation for its Galician-style pulpo (grilled octopus). A duo from the first pulperĂa we passed offered us morsels of their pulpo to entice us into their restaurant for a meal. Our Korean trainee priest was outside the restaurant with one of his walking companions, waiting for a table to become free.
Unlike many of our fellow pilgrims inside enjoying their plates of octopus, we decided 10:30 am was a little early to stop for a meal. Instead, we bought a couple of bananas and ate them at a cafe on the main street, watching the Sunday activity.
Lunch in Boente
The trail continued up and down rolling hills and forest trails with more horreos to look at along the way. Our lunch stop was roadside in the small hamlet of Boenta, an hour away from Arzua.
The quiet streets of Boente
Arzua
Arzua is famous for its dairy products, particularly its cheese. When we arrived in the town centre in the early afternoon, locals and pilgrims were enjoying lunch together at the cafes and restaurants along the main street.
We were overjoyed to see Mr Blue Singlet sitting at an outdoor cafe. We hadn’t seen him since Leon. As we passed, we got the impression he wanted to say something, however, we just ended up acknowledging each other as we continued.
A retreat in Arzua
Because our hotel in Arzua was outside of town, we had further to walk than most other pilgrims. Although the accommodation offered free transfers from the Camino trail, it was only a short distance, so we decided to walk.
A further 30 minutes through the town’s back streets brought us to our country retreat. It was 3:00 pm and we had been walking for 7.5 hours. As we arrived through the gates, we immediately knew we would enjoy our stay.
After settling into our room and feeling refreshed, we began exploring the beautiful rural property. The outdoor patio offered stunning views over the pastures. Unfortunately, the evening air was too cool to stay outside for long, so we decided to retreat inside to the lounge of the historic main building.
The views over the countryside from the deck of Pazo Santa Maria
An enchanting evening in Arzua
The early evening was spent relaxing with our journals and conversing with the manager, who told us the hotel’s history over a nice bottle of local wine with nuts and potato chips.
Relaxing in the lounge
Dinner at 7:00 pm is in a stone building across from the lounge. It is early, and because many guests are not pilgrims, we have the restaurant almost to ourselves. We enjoyed a delicious meal (the best on the Camino route). Our meal consists of an entree of hummus on mini bread, pumpkin soup, cheese and tomato salad, cod with potatoes and vegetables, and vegetable rice with soy sauce. The desserts are delectable tiramisu and cheesecake made with Arzua cheese and ice cream.
Our accommodation
Arriving at the beautiful rural property on which Pazo Santa Maria is located, a couple of kilometres from central Arzua, was a pleasant surprise.
The beautiful Pazo Santa Maria estate
The hotel complex features separate stone buildings, encouraging guests to explore the property and enjoy the beautiful rolling countryside beyond. The main building, which houses the reception and lounge areas, is the original farmhouse built in 1749.
Our room was spacious, featuring a very comfortable bed and luxurious Italian bathroom amenities that were greatly appreciated. As was the overnight laundry service they offered.
Pazo Santa Maria’s restaurant
Both meals, dinner and breakfast, were above our expectations. The restaurant was cosy and inviting, and the staff were very attentive. We noticed coins set into the small crevices between the stones throughout the restaurant. The staff told us it was customary for guests to make a wish and leave a coin in an unoccupied crevice. We did too!
Coins in the wall
Highlights of Days 33 and 34 walking the full Camino de Santiago
Interactions with fellow pilgrims can often be short while walking the full Camino de Santiago. Some may be just in passing, while others can continue over days as we each continue at our own pace. It was always heartening to see walkers, like Mr Blue Singlet, that we thought we would never see again, and there was comfort in realising that they too had noticed us on the trail.
We had grown accustomed to the different types of accommodations where our overnight stays had been pre-booked. Each was a sanctuary and welcomed by us, especially after the days when the walk had been long and arduous.
Our overnight stays in Palas de Rei and ArzĂşa were delightful, and the welcomes and interactions with our hosts, despite the language barriers, left us with pleasant and lasting memories.
Walking statistics
30km
7.5 hours, including two rest breaks
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. Above all, it’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.
Follow our 38-day journey walking the full Camino de Santiago from Day 1 by clicking the link below.
A short walking day took us to the hilltop town of Sarria. It’s the most popular starting point for pilgrims who want to experience the Camino and wish to earn their Compostela Certificate. Our final days walking the full Camino de Santiago were about to change!
Day 31 – Samos to Sarria
In anticipation of a short walking day, we enjoyed a leisurely start. Breakfast was as delicious and plentiful as dinner the previous evening.
As we left Samos, the air was cool, the skies grey, and spots of rain fell. Within an hour, though, the skies had cleared. We meandered along forest and bush trails between small villages, then along paths beside meadows and pastures with an odd house here and there.
The path through the countryside between Samos and Sarria
We caught up and passed a trio of Dutch or German women chatting amicably as they walked, and then a Japanese lady wearing knee supports on both knees. We had seen her in Samos the evening before. She was struggling to maintain a pace even with hiking poles. Slowing down to her pace, we chatted with her. She had been walking the Camino trail for nearly six weeks, her Camino considerably slowed after she injured her knees in Pamplona.
A short and pleasant walking day ended with us arriving in Sarria before lunch. Our hotel room was ready, and with a couple of hours before our bags arrived, we set out to explore.
Exploring Sarria
Our route took us to the High Street, much like any other in the lower town, before we made our way up to the Mirador (lookout) in the old upper town. Our guidebook noted the amazing views of the Sarria township and countryside from there. Unfortunately, the views were obstructed by overgrowth
Moving swiftly along, we arrived at the top of Calle Mayor, the old town’s main street. It’s a lovely street to amble up or down and have a meal at one of the cafes that line the street. While we accessed the street and the Mirador from the slightly more graduated streets from the back, there is more direct access from the lower town. Be prepared for an uphill walk.
Calle Mayor in Sarria’s Old Town
At the top of Calle Mayor is the castle tower. This is all that remains of the castle. Our guidebook told us that the stones from the 14th-century castle were used to pave the town’s walkways.
The tower is all that remains of Sarria’s castle
With our sightseeing exhausted, we returned to the hotel where our luggage had arrived, allowing us to freshen up.
An evening in Sarria
Once refreshed, we went across the small riverway to window shop on the High Street, then enjoy a glass of wine and journal before returning to the hotel’s bar for another beverage while waiting for the hotel restaurant to open at 8:00 pm.
We were the only customers in the bar, and the young bartender was keen to converse in English. He told us he was born in Puerto Rico and had moved to Spain nine years earlier with his parents. His father was an artisan instrument maker specialising in Spanish guitars. He was working to save money for further studies.
Our overnight stay was at Hotel Alfonso IX. The hotel is in the lower town, close to all amenities, on the Camino path and a short distance from the old town. The rooms are comfortable and spacious.
As mentioned above, our evening meal was exceptional, and the breakfast choices were plentiful and equally delicious.
Walking statistics
14km
3 hours
Day 31 – Sarria to Portomarin
The hotel breakfast offered plenty of choices. We settled for muesli with fresh fruit salad, toast with tomato paste (a typical Spanish breakfast), and cheese finished with melon and sweet pineapple to fuel us for a 22km walking day.
We left the hotel at 7:40 a.m., and a steady line of pilgrims accompanied us over the bridge and up the Calle Mayor leading out of the old town.
To earn a pilgrim’s certificate, the church recognises the final 100km from Sarria to Santiago de Compostela as completion of a Camino. For this reason, many pilgrims commence their Camino from Sarria.
A party on the Camino trail
It’s common for young Spanish people to walk this final route during their summer vacation so they can include the completion of the Camino de Santiago on their CVS. This valuable addition improves their chances of securing a position after finishing university.
From Sarria, the trail suddenly became busy with more pilgrims
Only after walking for 20 minutes did we realise how busy the rest of the Camino would be. The path had become congested with groups of walkers oblivious to the other pilgrims around them. Others stepped out of cars and buses on the road to join the train of pilgrims. It was noticeably noisier!
The new pilgrims were easily identifiable with their brand-new shoes and immaculate clothing.
Walking through the countryside with a train of pilgrims
Other pilgrims we talked with later in the day, who had been walking the full Camino de Santiago from earlier starting points, felt aggrieved that the solitude of the past few weeks had suddenly disappeared.
The path to Portomarin
It would be fair to say that the scenery on the path to Portomarin could be described as “urban countryside”, alternating between tarmac and forest paths leading through small villages.
New additions to the landscape attracted our attention. Small raised houses seemed to be everywhere, in the fields and backyards. They’re called horreos (stone granaries) used to store grain, feed for livestock and household goods. Nearly all were decorated with symbols. Horreos protect their contents from rodents and the damp ground.
Horreos of all sizes could be seen everywhere from the Camino path
Not long before reaching the bridge crossing the river into Portomarin, the path provided two options: the long or the short way. Eager to arrive, we followed a group on the shorter path. The last section of the short route was unbelievably steep and rocky. The two paths rejoined just before the bridge.
Portomarin
Portomarin has origins dating back to Roman times, and until 1950, the entire town was situated lower than its current location. The town’s buildings, some from medieval times, were submerged when a dam and reservoir were constructed.
Liberty Bell at the lookout before crossing the bridge into Portomarin
Before crossing the bridge, we paused to ring the Liberty Bell, a tradition among pilgrims, and to explore the ruins of the old town. When the dam waters are low, you can see remnants of the original town as you cross the bridge into the new town. Not all buildings were lost to the underwater world; several important structures, including two churches, were dismantled and relocated to the new town on higher ground.
Glimpses of the underwater ruins of Portomarin’s old town can be seen when the dam waters are low
Across the bridge, we faced one last climb up the steps of the old bridge before being greeted by the town’s sign.
One final climb of the old bridge steps to reach Portomarin
Exploring Portomarin
Portomarin is a pretty little town with pathways lining both sides of the main street, which has plenty of shops, restaurants and cafes for pilgrims. We enjoyed a light lunch in one across the road from a hostel where many young pilgrims were already lined up waiting to grab a bed for the night.
Hostels or albergues, as they are called on the Camino, are widely used by walkers. Offering simple overnight lodgings at minimal cost, this type of accommodation provides pilgrims with flexibility in their daily walking distances. Accommodation is provided on a first-come, first-served basis. If the hostel at your preferred overnight destination is fully booked, you’ll need to walk further to the next town or return to the last town you passed to try your luck.
The arcaded streets of Portomarin
Our pre-booked accommodation was at the far end of the town, which we checked into after lunch. Settled in, we returned to the township to have a closer look around. With not much else to see in the town, we peeked inside one of the relocated churches to find a rather austere interior before returning to enjoy a glass of wine at our lunch cafe.
Church of San Xoan of Portomarin
Ingrexa de San Pedro de Portomarin is in a quiet spot at the end of town
Too cold to stay out for long, we retreated to our hotel for a further pre-dinner beverage while we journaled. Fellow pilgrim, Louise from Belgium, arrived; she had been swimming in the pool. Brrr, too cold for us! She joined us for dinner.
Our accommodation
Our stay in Portomarin was at Pousada de Portomarin, a government-funded inn. Plenty of space in our comfortable room allowed us to do our stretches and yoga without the cramped surroundings of some of the other places we had stayed in.
Dinner in the hotel’s restaurant featured traditional Galician dishes: soup, salads, fish stew, stuffed chicken breast, and a dessert of Portomarin almond cake.
Walking statistics
26km
5 hours
Want to walk the full Camino de Santiago?
Contemplating walking the full Camino de Santiago? Let us tell you more here.
Day 29 of walking the full Camino de Santiago was one of the hardest on the trail after Day 1 when we walked over the Pyrenees from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles. The next day, Day 30, did not go exactly as planned. However, there’s always a silver lining. It allowed us to do something we otherwise would not have done. Read more below.
Day 29 – Villafranca del Bierza to O’Cebreiro
We woke with the alarm, ready for breakfast at 7:00 am and were on the road half an hour later.
Leaving Villafranca del Bierza in the morning light, the scenery was stunning. As much as we were in awe of the scenery in front of us, over the past month, we turned and looked behind us as we walked. Sometimes the best views were behind us.
The riverside pathway leaving Villafranca del Bierzo
A pretty path and bridge over the Burbia River led us out of Villafranca, but the path became tedious soon after. We walked by the motorway for a long time under miserable grey skies, catching small glimpses of the river.
Pereje
A wooded path away from the motorway took us through the hamlet of Pereje, which has been there since the 12th century. We soaked up the small village atmosphere of yards with hydrangea bushes, and carts parked undercover. Not one of the 33 people who lived there was to be seen.
Village scenes in Pereje
Trabadelo
A tree-lined path took us back to the main road to the slightly larger village of Trabadelo. Trabadelo dates back to the 9th century and depends on the logging industry and Camino pilgrims. It was yet another sleepy old town with just a few residents in sight.
More small villages while walking the full Camino de Santiago
The river turned into streams and creeks as we continued never far from the motorway. More small settlements (La Portela de Valcarce, Ambasmetas, Vega de Valcarce) appeared. All were ghost towns.
On a roadside verge, we saw the first family group we had come across walking the Camino de Santiago. Mum, Dad, their two young children carrying backpacks, and grandmother leading the way were from Korea. The children were having a wonderful time in the outdoors.
Las Herrerias
Las Herrerias is the last town before the long ascent to O’Cebreiro.
Compared to the other villages, it felt like its inhabitants were all outside to see us on our way.
The inhabitants of Las Herrerias were outdoors going about their business. People were tending their vegetable gardens, catching up with neighbours or walking. Seeing the townspeople after the desolate streets of the previous villages was uplifting.
A lone tall young pilgrim in a red hat and backpack walking ahead of us stood out. We pondered where he was from as we followed him out of town.
Another young pilgrim was seated resting by the creek.
The Camino trail continued. At first, it was along the roadside, after which we ducked in and out of the forests.
The long climb to O Cebreiro
La Faba
The meadows, creeks, streams, and brooks that had accompanied us out of Las Herrerias disappeared, and slowly, farmland surrounded by mountains appeared.
Views on the way to O’Cebreiro
The challenging climb to O’Cebreiro started, and we continued upwards for several kilometres to reach the town of La Faba. The trail passes directly through the town’s narrow streets.
The small town was a welcome sight and perfect for a lunch stop. There was a single cafe open. Our Korean friends from Astorga were seated at a table having a cold drink so we chatted while the cafe owner assembled a colourful fresh salad and a delicious cup of coffee for our lunch.
The climb to O’Cebreiro continued
It took us another 90 minutes to complete the 5km final leg to the hilltop town of O’Cebreiro. The views as we climbed were beautiful and again, it was worth turning to look back over the valley and hillside as we walked.
O’Cebreiro has a population of 30 catering to the many pilgrims who pass through and those few, like us, who stay overnight there.
We arrived to find the village buzzing with daytrippers. Most of them are taking in the spectacular mountain views from the stone walls at either end of the town.
The main street of O’Cebreiro. Our accommodation was the building on the left
Our accommodation was in the village centre across from the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Real O’Cebreiro which is thought to be the oldest church on the Camino.
O’Cebreiro
First, we needed to check in, stretch, and refresh ourselves before exploring the area. Our bags had not yet arrived when we stopped by the busy souvenir store underneath our accommodation to collect our room keys. This was the first time on the entire Camino de Santiago that our bags had not arrived before us. They assured us our bags might show up in an hour or so and promised to make inquiries.
Unexpected reward
So, we were back outside sooner than we expected. We stayed close by enjoying a beer in the sun at the pub/restaurant next to our accommodation to reward ourselves.
Returning to the store, they confirmed that our bags had arrived before us. They had just been placed in the wrong room. We did our yoga and showered before venturing outside to enjoy the pleasant day and explore O’Cebreiro.
Exploring O’Cebreiro
Day visitors were thinning when we stepped outside after refreshing. The walk to the other end of O’Cebreiro isn’t far. Most noticeable are the few low-set thatched roof dwellings. They are homes particular to O’Cebreiro designed to withstand the heavy snow and high winds that lash the town in the winter. Having seen the street, we returned to look inside the church.
Low-thatched houses in O’Cebreiro
Iglesia de Santa Maria de Real is noted to be the oldest surviving church on the Camino de Santiago. Although parts of the church have had to be reconstructed, some date back to the 9th and 12th centuries.
The altar of Iglesia de Santa Maria de Real
Also inside, slightly to the side of the church is the tomb of the parish priest Elias Valina Sampedro who is revered for reinventing the Camino de Santiago. A small exhibition documents how he mapped the modern Camino de Santago by tracing back to the medieval route.
We saved the best for last as we retraced our steps to the stone wall along the path we had arrived on. We sat down to savour the spectacular views of the rolling hills and mountains we had just trekked over. It was an amazing way to end the day.
Spectacular views from the stone wall in O’Cebreiro and the hills and mountain range we had walked up during the day
Our accommodation
We stayed in one of Casa Navarro’s three rooms. As mentioned earlier, the accommodation is attached to a small gift store. The rooms were simple and functional but stuffy and the beds were uncomfortable. On top of the discomfort, noisy night arrivals in the other two rooms had woken us.
Dinner and breakfast were provided by Meson O’Cebreiro, directly across the street from Casa Navarro. They had a lovely dining area behind the bar, where we enjoyed our pre-dinner drinks and journaled while glancing out of the expansive windows at the serene mountain views. Now in Gallicia, our evening meal was warm, hearty comfort food consisting of vegetable stew, ricotta puddings, and local Flam cake.
Walking statistics
29km
7.25 hours including a rest break
Day 28 – O’Cebreiro to Samos
After an uncomfortable night’s sleep, we rose early. It was expected to rain later in the morning and we were eager to leave. So, you can imagine our surprise when we went downstairs to find everything covered in mist and steady rain falling. We ducked across to Meson O’Cebreiro for breakfast and assessed how our day would go.
Plan B – Getting to Samos
We agreed to wait to see if the rain would stop before leaving. The walks downhill were more tricky than uphill. The track would be very slippery even with our hiking shoes. Having walked so far on the full Camino de Santiago we didn’t want to jeopardise completing the walk. If the rain didn’t stop we would take a taxi or catch a bus to Triacastela to see if we could continue the walk to Samos.
Louise, who had been staying in nearby rooms, arrived just as surprised by the rain as we were. We shared our plan with her and were taken aback by her response. “So you’re going to cheat?” she quipped. After all, injuring ourselves on dangerously wet tracks was not part of the plan, and we didn’t see ourselves as cheating.
The waiting game
We wished Louise well. Despite the rain, she started walking after breakfast to Triacastela. We climbed the stairs to our room to wait and see if the mist lifted and the rain eased.
With our bags packed and bags downstairs ready for pick-up there was nothing to do except watch some more Netflix. We checked the bus timetable in case the rain did not cease. There was a bus leaving at 10 am.
Outside, the mist had closed in and rain was falling steadily. We decided to catch the bus to Triacastela and reassess the situation there.
Catching the bus to Samos
At the bus stop, a few other pilgrims decided to take the bus downhill. We spoke with a young German girl whose husband had been determined to walk. He had set out at 7:00 a.m. in the pouring rain. However, she was injured and didn’t want to risk walking in such conditions. She had just received a message from him, and he was completely drenched.
The weather worsened while we waited for the bus, confirming we had made the right decision. The bus was relatively full with both locals and pilgrims. Because of the mist, there wasn’t much to see along the road or in the valley below.
At Triacastela, thinking the rain had stopped, we disembarked. We were mistaken, it was still raining, and we promptly rejoined the queue to get back on quickly. The bus driver looked at us oddly as he issued our tickets for the remainder of the ride to Samos.
Samos
The rain had turned to drizzle by the time we stepped off the bus and walked the short distance to our hotel. Our room was ready but our luggage had not arrived so we dropped our backpacks and took the opportunity to visit the monastery.
Monastario de San Julian de Samos
Our guide notes said Monasterio de Samos is the highlight of this little township.
Monasterio de Samos
The monastery was founded in the 6th century. After a series of fires between the 16th and 18th centuries, then another in 1951, the current structure was constructed. The Benedictine order has overseen the monastery since the 10th century, making it one of Spain’s oldest active monasteries today.
A guided tour of the monastery
The monastery offers up to five guided tours daily, each lasting up to 40 minutes and costing 4 euros per person. We arrived in time to join the early afternoon tour along with several other visitors. While we waited for the tour to begin, we browsed through the monastery’s small shop.
The chapel inside Monasterio de Samos
The tour was in Spanish, but our young guide also spoke English well and kindly provided us with an overview in English as we proceeded.
The smaller inner cloister of the Monasterio de Samos
The Monastery and Church are huge. We were first guided through the church. The old part is Roman, dating back to the 8th century, with the monastery growing and the new church expanding around it. We then visited the inner cloister and the grand cloister before going upstairs to the upper-floor monk’s quarters to view its beautifully frescoed walls. Each was stunning.
Frescoes in the upper quarters of the Monasterio de Samos
These days, the monastery functions more as a retreat, a contemplative sanctuary hosting Benedictine monks from Spain and visitors worldwide who can stay for 3-15 days.
At the time of our visit, eight monks aged between 50 and 96 years old lived in the monastery full-time alongside our young novice who was under 30 years old and was manning the gift shop when we entered. There were originally 90 monks and 200 novices living there. An indication of the changing tide in faith?
An afternoon in Samos
When we emerged from the monastery after the tour, the rain had finally stopped and it was lunchtime. We wandered along the main street to the bar/restaurant we had passed earlier. Lots of locals were out lunching.
It was surprising to see our guide from the monastery serving behind the bar. She helps her twin brother who owns the bar. When they first moved to Samos three years earlier they had a bar at the quieter end of town. This new spot was a huge improvement in attracting clientele.
Back at the hotel, our bags had arrived allowing us to do an extended yoga session to compensate for not walking. Showered and refreshed, we returned outdoors. The sun was shining brightly.
The beautiful riverside walk in Samos
This time, we took the pretty back way around the town along Paseo de Mamacola. Greenery and vegetable plots sat alongside the clear waterway. We stopped to look at the old chapel with its 1000-year-old cypress tree leaning tightly alongside it.
Chapel of San Salvador and the cypress tree
With plenty of time before our evening meal, we returned to our lunch spot for a glass of delicious local white wine. We watched the comings and goings in the main street while we journaled.
The evening concluded with a bottle of wine and paella, accompanied by battered calamari and grilled octopus. We finished with apple cheesecake and chestnut mousse at our hotel’s restaurant overlooking the waterway.
Our accommodation
Our overnight stay was in Hotel A Veiga. We had a spacious and very comfortable room.
Our breakfast and evening meals were served in the expansive restaurant, which overlooks the gardens and river behind the hotel building. It was a quiet and serene space to end and start our day.
Walking statistics
30km (if we had walked downhill from O’Cebreiro)
The estimated walk time in our walking notes was between six and seven hours
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago?
The Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in northwestern Spain. You don’t have to be a pilgrim to walk the Way. It’s a wonderful way to see and experience northern Spain.
Want to know more about walking the full Camino de Santiago? Read our blog post:
