Travel recommendations, ideas and observations from two simple travellers

Tag: travelling in europe (Page 3 of 3)

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

Planning on visiting Malaga or Seville? Read on to find out why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

Southern Spain is speckled with pueblo blancos (white towns). Each has its own character and it’s hard not to get caught up visiting all of them. If you’re short on time, Ronda is the one town to visit.

Why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda

We chose Ronda as our base for several days because of its point of difference from the other white villages.

Steeped in history, the city sits on two sides of a deep gorge connected by a fantastic bridge—the bridge, Puento Nuevo (new bridge) was built in 1793.

Our apartment was located in Plaza Espana next to Puento Nuevo, with an added “wow” factor. Our expansive patio looked out over the magnificent Sierra de las Nieves! The Tourist Office around the corner from our apartment armed us with a map and options on how to spend our time in the town.

Views to the Sierra de las Nieves from Ronda
Views of the Sierra de las Nieves from our apartment patio

We were fortunate to arrive on a Saturday when a free flamenco concert was being held in Ronda’s Old Town.

A summer evening in Ronda

The views from both sides of the bridge are dramatic, and it is the first place to stop to soak in the scenery before you explore the old town.

In the Old Town, we followed the sound of music down some cobblestone alleys to appear at an open-air area where the rehearsal was in progress. Moving on, we stopped in a pretty square to visit the cathedral, Santa Maria de la Mayor. An added pleasure was watching a wedding party emerge.

The plaza offers several restaurants if you’d like to eat in the quiet precinct. We opted for the low-key garden restaurant to try a few of the local dishes on offer. The food portions are large and delicious.

Back at the concert venue, we found the seats were filling up fast. Instead of sitting down with the audience, we decided to sit on the ledge above to watch people and observe. By 10:00 pm, the arena was full. Concertgoers came dressed for the occasion and the atmosphere was jovial as the concert commenced.

We left after an hour, wishing we understood the language better so we could have enjoyed the music, singing and dancing as much as the locals did.

The Cathedral was spectacularly lit up as we passed by on the way back to our apartment. At 11:30 pm. townsfolk were still out and about in droves, and the town was buzzing. Just one of the benefits of visiting in the summer months.

Things to do in incredible Ronda

Enjoy the dramatic views from Mirador Aldehuela

Mirador Aldehuela is on the Old Town side of Puento Nuevo and directly opposite Plaza Espana. We recommend that it’s one of the first things you do. The dramatic views down to the Guadelevin River flowing at the bottom of the gorge surrounded by the cliff formations are jaw-dropping.

Views of the gorge, Ronda, Spain
Views of the gorge from Mirador Aldehuela

Take in the evening views of Puento Nuevo

For another perspective of Puento Nuevo, stroll along Mirador de Aves via the pathway from Plaza Espana in the evening.

It’s a great place to linger as the sun goes down. As darkness falls and the lights around the gorge turn on, highlighting the bridge. The bridge looked spectacular, and the gorge seemed rather eery.

Puento Nuevo, Ronda at night
Puento Nuevo, Ronda at night

Take a hike in the El Tajo Gorge

Morning dawned with hot air balloons hovering over our balcony. They skimmed across the sky to hover above the gorge and valley. The views must be unique from above.

The Tourist Office recommended hiking the Molinos del Tajo route, which leads down from the Old Town into the El Tajo Gorge. This would be the best way to experience the town’s distinctive qualities. We took their recommendation and were not disappointed.

Views of Ronda's Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge
Views of Ronda’s Puento Nuevo from the El Tajo Gorge

The main path takes you to the waterfall just below the bridge with some viewpoints providing breathtaking views of the bridge. You can then walk some of the quieter paths leading further downhill to capture bridge views from different angles before circumnavigating to the other side of town towards the old Roman bridge and visiting the Arab Baths. We returned to the township via Jardines de Cuenca, and the spectacular viewpoints spread at intervals across the gardens before emerging in Plaza Espana from the other end of the Puento Nuevo.

The early morning is the perfect time to do the two-hour walk, especially if you are visiting in summer. The temperature is cool, and, at this time of the day, there are not many people on the trails. It provides a wonderful opportunity to savour the views from the lookouts and take unobstructed photos.

Step inside the Arab Baths and walk over the Roman Bridge

If you follow the walking route around to the eastern side of the town, you’ll end up at the Arab Baths.

Relatively intact, the baths provide a peek into the Moorish heritage of the town. This part of town was originally the main entrance into Ronda, and the baths sat just outside the city walls and next to the Mosque. Locals and visitors would stop to cleanse their bodies at the baths before going to the Mosque

A little further around the corner, you’ll find more another remnant of old Ronda with the Roman Bridge at the original entrance to Ronda.

The Roman Bridge, Ronda, Spain
A couple look over the Arab bath site from the old Roman Bridge

Visit the Plaza de Toros

One of the oldest in Spain, Ronda’s bullring stands as a centrepiece as you enter the Old Town. Two statues honouring two sons of the town stand at the entrance. Statues honouring two of the town’s famous matadors, a father (Antonio Ordonez) and son (Cayetano Ordonez) stand proudly at the entrance. With bullfighting falling out of favour in recent times, the bullring serves mainly as a museum these days. Bullfighting is, however, embedded in the culture of the town and once a year in September, the Plaza de Toros truly comes to life when the Feria de Pedro Romero is held along with several others in southern Spain.

The bullring, Plaza de Toros, Ronda, Spain
Ronda’s bullring, Plaza de Toros

Mirador de Ronda – scenic lookout of the gorge and mountains

A few minutes’ stroll from Plaza Espana, and through the flower gardens is another lookout to the amazing mountain ranges and the gorge. For spectacular sunset views, take a seat on the steps of the rotunda from where you can watch one of the world’s best sunsets.

Visit Setenil de las Bodegas

The small white village of Setenil de las Bodegas is a twenty-minute drive from Ronda and worth a visit whether you are staying in Ronda or just hopping from one white town to another on your way through southern Spain.

Why? Setenil is not just another white village and is unique in its own right for the town’s hilltop castle, which was once an Arab fortress. Even more, it is famous because of the village houses built into the rock and cliffside.

Setenil de las Bodegas
Dwellings built into the cliff face in Setenil de las Bodegas

The village is very popular for its culinary fare. The original houses built into the cliff are now mostly tavernas or restaurants serving the chorizo sausages that the village is famous for. We arrived in the village for a late afternoon visit to find the village still brimming with tourists.

Once you’ve had a wander around the area below, follow the steps up to a small lookout to take a seat and survey the pueblo from above. You’ll find it a great vantage point to view the castle/fortress.

Setenil de las Bodegas lookout, Ronda, Spain
Views of the castle and township from the lookout

Shopping on Carrera Espinel

Carerra Espinel is a one-kilometre pedestrian street with shopping for all budgets. However, Carrera Espinel is worth a walk down for its festive spirit. Part of the way along veer into the pretty Plaza del Socorro, where you’ll find a few dining options and the Inglesia del Sirocco. It’s a pretty square in an incredible town!

Plaza del Socorro, Ronda, Spain
Plaza del Socorro, Ronda, Spain

Our conclusion

Steeped in history and jaw-dropping scenery, Ronda was true to all that we had read about the town and the amazing photography we had seen when researching places to visit in southern Spain. Ronda did not disappoint!

You simply should not leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda!

One more thing

Looking for more pueblo blancos to visit. Click on the link below to read more.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

When researching where to visit in southern Spain, places like Seville, Malaga and Granada frequently arose. We have found another area to include on your itinerary. See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain.

See the unique and stunning white villages of southern Spain

The white villages (pueblos blancos) are easily visited from Seville, Cadiz or Malaga on a day visit. The best way to appreciate them and their atmosphere (each varies) is to stay in one. We based ourselves in Ronda and stopped at a few villages on the way there. Here are some that stood out for us.

Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez de la Frontera is the largest of the white villages/towns and is famous for two things:

  • the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art and breeding and training horses; and
  • producing some of the best sherry in the world.

Vineyards accompanied us on the road and on reaching the Jerez, we found it brimming with bodegas (cellars). Producers here make sherry from a particular grape variety (Palamino) which grows in the chalky soil of this part of Spain. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you are looking for tasting cellars. Look out for the area’s most famous brand, Tio Pepe which stands prominently on the hillside as you drive into the town.

We weren’t in Jerez to taste the sherry or check out the equestrian centre. We wanted to visit the old town. Vehicular access is prohibited so we parked outside the zone, an extra dimension to our visit. Derelict houses lined the alleys and streets as we walked towards what we hoped was the central plaza. What the city may have to offer a visitor was questionable!

The backstreets of Jerez de la Frontera
The backstreets of Jerez de la Frontera

Ten minutes of winding through the alleys brought us to a quiet main road which we followed a short way uphill. Suddenly out of nowhere, Plaza de la Asuncion appeared. A small but charming old square with a significant history. A 15th-century Gothic Mudejar-style church, the Church of San Dionisio is on one side, the former town hall dating back to the 16th century, on another. In the middle, you’ll find the Monumento a la Asuncion.

A short walk along the lane took us to one of the most important squares in Jerez de la Frontera, Plaza del Arenal. It’s the heart of the old town and was once the scene of fights and duels in the 16th century. These days, it’s a beautiful open space hosting statues of renowned identities surrounded by beautiful old buildings. The colourful carousel in the corner adds to its charm and vibrancy.

Jerez de la Frontera
Jerez de la Frontera

We came across the striking Jerez Cathedral. It’s a beautiful building dating back to the 17th century combining Gothic, Baroque and Neo-Classical styles towering over the street as we returned to the car.

Jerez Cathedral, Jerez de la Frontera, Spain
Jerez Cathedral

Arcos de la Frontera

Arcos de la Frontera is one of the lesser-visited white towns. Set on a hilltop, we detoured slightly north from Cadiz to Ronda to explore this hilltop town.

Parking in Plaza del Cabildo is limited and narrow alleyways to navigate on the hill. We decided to find a car park in the town area below (Hint: bring good walking shoes to make your way uphill on the cobbled pathway). The views of the white town as we walked towards more than made up for taking the steep incline on a hot summer morning.

Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera, Spain
Plaza del Cabildo, Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Plaza del Cabildo

The main street, Calle Cuesta Belen took us to our first stop, Plaza del Cabildo. Beautiful buildings surround this main square on three sides (Basilica de Santa Maria de la Asuncion, Castillo Ducal, the town hall and the Parador de Arcos de la Frontera, a hotel). The Mirador del Cono is the highlight of the Plaza. It serves as a cliffside balcony to look out over the Rio Guadalete.

Explore the narrow alleyways

One of the highlights of our visit to Arcos de la Frontera was getting lost in the little alleys around the town. The best place to start is to go back to the Cuesta Belen entrance of the Plaza and enter through the archway on the left just before the Parador. You’ll find yourself in the maze of alleyways lined with whitewashed houses.

The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain
The lanes and alleyways of Arcos de la Frontera, Spain

Things to look out for:

  • Inglesia de San Pedro – the church and its Baroque bell tower are just as impressive as the Basilica in Plaza del Cabildo.
  • Palacio del Mayorazgo – when you’ve finished gazing at the Iglesia de San Pedro, turn around. This narrow building dates back to the 17th century. It is now home to a cultural centre. Pop in to admire the building’s interior and the exhibitions.
  • Find and stroll along Calle Cuna and Calle Maldonaldo. Both are lined with Palacios and worthy of finding your way to.
  • Another street to find is Calle Nueva lined. It’s lined with colourful pots against the whitewashed buildings.
  • Visit the Convento de la Mercerdarias. The convent was closed during our visit, however, all the information we read before our visit recommended a visit. The convent dates back to 1642 and is a classic example of a cloistered convent.
  • Follow the path from Calle Nueva onwards to Mirador Abades. If you thought the views from the mirador in Plaza Cabildo were spectacular, we classified Mirador Abades as the perfect finale for our visit. Go ahead and take a look for yourselves.
Expansive views from the Mirador Abades, Arcos de la Frontera
Expansive views from the Mirador Abades

Don’t forget to pop your head into the novelty stores and tapas bars.

Zahara de la Sierra

Zahara de la Sierra is an hour’s drive from Arcos de la Frontera. We passed a few more Pueblo Blancos on the way. Zahara de la Sierra’s Moorish castle is perched high up on the hill coming into view from afar

Zahara de la Sierra, Spain
Driving towards Zahara de la Sierra

Again, we found it best to use the car park at the bottom of the hill. It was also the best way to savour the beauty of the laneways and Moorish houses on the way to Plaza Mayor, the village’s main square. The steep streets were eerily quiet and not a soul was to be seen on the way up.

On reaching Plaza Mayor we realised why the streets had been so quiet. The pretty pink church, Church of Santa Maria de la Mesa was hidden behind a marquee set up to cover the square and pretty stone fountain. Calle Ronda was barricaded for a bull run. The town’s inhabitants were either lining the outside of barriers or inside for the release of the bull.

Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra
Getting ready for the bull run in Zahara de la Sierra

While everyone was preoccupied preparing for the bull run we took advantage of the stunning views of the picturesque Sierra de Monte surrounding the aqua-blue lake, Playa de Zahara de la Sahara below. The lake is a popular water sports destination as the mountains are for hiking.

Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain
Views over the lake from the Plaza Mayor, Zahara de la Sierra, Spain

A little time was spent at the barricades absorbing the atmosphere before we realised that this was not something we would enjoy. We made our way downhill for lunch before crowds arrived after the spectacle. An ambulance siren accompanies our journey down.

Olvera

We now know where all the Spanish olive oil comes from! Driving to Olvera you’ll see olive groves everywhere. Fires over the past summers have destroyed some hillside groves. In some areas, new trees have been planted and some of the surviving old trees are starting to resprout. We are once again treated to spectacular views driving towards the township. Another castle perched above us on the hill. Just below it, a church.

Roadside views of the church and castle atop the hill in Olvera, Spain
Roadside views of the church and castle atop the hill in Olvera, Spain

Olvera is a ghost town as we walk uphill. Apart from the restaurants, everything else is closed for the siesta. Walking uphill is beginning to become a habit but we can enjoy the scenic main street without crowds.

The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain
The beautiful walkway lined with whitewashed houses to the church in Olvera, Spain

Arriving in the church square, apart from a couple of people sitting under the shade of a tree, we have it to ourselves. A Polish family joined us a short while later. Like us, they are amazed that there is no one else around.

The square is the best place to see the castle while the lookouts around the church provide sweeping views over the township below and the surrounding countryside. It was time well spent stopping and walking up the hot afternoon sun.

Ronda – the most stunning of the white villages

Onwards to incredible Ronda. We decided to base ourselves in the most popular white villages for several nights to find out why it’s classified as one of the most beautiful.

Are you interested to learn what we found? Click on the link and take a look at our review on why you shouldn’t leave southern Spain without visiting Ronda.

Things you’ll love to see in charming Genoa

Charming Genoa

Many tourists don’t visit Genoa because it’s away from Italy’s more popular tourist spots. Rest assured, there are many things you’ll love to see in charming Genoa.

The city secured its importance early because of its harbour and has been inhabited for thousands of years. It has its own history, complete with magnificent piazzas, vias, palaces and buildings.

Why we visited Genoa

“Where shall we take our driving break?” We were driving from Switzerland to Rapallo on Italy’s Ligurian coast.

It was to be Genoa, a city we had visited before. Then, with only a couple of hours free, we wandered around a small part of the old town area, reflecting on why we hadn’t planned to stay.

We had stayed in the city a few years earlier. There had been heavy traffic from Monaco into Italy, but what stunning views over the Italian Riviera!  Spectacular sea views on one side and equally striking terraces of vineyards, olive and citrus groves on the other.

Things you’ll love to see and do in charming Genoa

Genoa’s Old Town

Parking was prohibited in the historic centre, so we dragged our bags into the maze of alleyways and instantly lost our bearings. Not a soul was in sight. We found a pharmacy with a pharmacist who spoke a little English. He decided that we were incapable of finding our way to our bed and breakfast, Quarto Piano, on our own, so he guided us through a tight network of narrow alleys, emerging in front of a beautiful old building. We would never have found our way!

Ersi buzzed us up to the fourth floor as our guide disappeared with a smile and a wave. We lugged our bags up the 105 steps of the impressive marble staircase to our chic abode. Like many historic buildings, there was no lift!

Once settled, a wandering of the carrugi revealed a historic centre with many old, a little new, wealthy and many not-so-wealthy inhabitants cohabiting within the medieval core of the city. It was interesting just to cast our eyes around our little neighbourhood before we explored further out.

Porto Antico, Porto Vecchio, Porto Nuovo

The harbour is the life of Genoa, and we spent our first afternoon exploring the docks. Each has its own characteristics, and we found a range of dining options along the way where visitors and locals can sit back and watch the comings and goings in the harbour. We even retraced our steps back to our accommodation without getting lost!

There’s plenty to see and do in Porto Antico

The Palazzos of Via Giuseppe Garibaldi

What a difference a day made! The next morning, we stepped out for our first full day in the city to find the shutters had been lifted and business well underway.

Our first stop was the famous Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. Built by the Genovese aristocracy, the street is lined with magnificent palaces. Each noble palace has its own character with extravagant facades, enthralling courtyards and amazing interiors hidden behind nondescript entrances. Give yourself plenty of time; there is much to be amazed by.

Take a peek at the elegant courtyards hidden behind doors on Via Garibaldi
You’ll find each interior exquisite
From one doorway to another
The beautifully decorated exteriors are unique to that palazzo

Piazza Ferrari

Piazza Ferrari is one of Italy’s most beautiful piazzas. In the centre of the old town, boasting a majestic fountain, it’s a wonderful place to stop for an aperitif. Sit back and appreciate the beautiful old palaces and buildings that flank the perimeter of the Piazza.

Piazza Ferrari
Historic buildings frame Piazza Ferrari

Via XX Settembre (via 20 September)

Linking Piazza Ferrari to Piazza Vittoria, Via XX Settembre is another of the city’s most elegant streets. Boutiques, shops and cafes are housed on the ground floors of the extravagant buildings lining both sides of the street.

Cast your eyes around to admire the intricate and decorative facades and balconies of the buildings. Make sure you look up and down too. The arcaded street has beautiful mosaic floors and equally stunning panelled ceilings.

Piazza della Vittoria

The walk down XX Settembre ends at Piazza della Vittoria, another beautiful and important square. The significant feature of the square is the triumphal arch dedicated to the city’s fallen World War I soldiers.

Genoa’s Triumphal Arch

Porto Soprana

Genoa was once a walled city, and its city walls were once the longest in Italy. Today, Porto Soprana is the best of the remaining gateways to visit.  The gateway between two towers, or the Towers of Sant’Andrea as they are sometimes referred to, is not far from Piazza Ferrari.

The towering towers of Porto Soprano
The well-preserved gateway

Casa Colombo

A stone’s throw from Porto Soprana is Christopher Columbus House. Christopher Columbus was born in Genoa and lived on the site between 1455 and 1470.

The current building is a reconstruction built a few decades after the original house was destroyed (believed to be during the bombing of Genoa by France in 1684). The surrounding area has been renovated and rebuilt, and while extra floors have been added to the house, it has been left to reflect what it looked like when Columbus lived there. It now houses a museum dedicated to the city’s famous son.

Casa Columbus

Our conclusion

Of course, the above is just a sprinkling of what we have seen. Like many of Italy’s cities and towns, there is an exhaustive list of charming churches and cathedrals, museums, theatres and viewing points to include on a visit.

We know we have not seen or experienced all this great city has to offer, and we’ll be going to go back for another stay. If you haven’t been to Genoa before, we highly recommend that you consider adding the city that most travellers forget to your itinerary. You’ll be pleasantly surprised.

P.S

If you enjoyed reading about Genoa, you may like a couple of our other Italian “off the radar” recommendations:

Newer posts »

© 2026 Travelling Simply

Theme by Anders Noren — Up ↑